Having seen the north-east part of the island on the twenty-sixth of

October, without certainly knowing whether it was Mindanoa or Saint

John's, we got nearer to it the next day, and made what we knew to be

Saint Augustina, the south-eastermost part of the island, which rises in

little hummocks, that run down to a low point at the water's edge; it

bears N. 40 E. at the distance of two-and-twenty leagues from a little

island, which is distinguished from the other islands that lie off the

southernmost point of Mindanao by a hill or hummock, and which for that

reason I called _Hummock Island_. All this land is very high, one ridge

of mountains rising behind another, so that at a great distance it

appears not like one island but several. After our first discovery of

the island, we kept turning along the east side from the northward to

Cape Saint Augustina, nearly S. by W. 1/2 W. and N. by E. 1/2 E. for

about twenty leagues. The wind was to the southward along the shore, and

as we approached the land, we stood in for an opening, which had the

appearance of a good bay, where we intended to anchor; but we found that

it was too deep for our purpose, and that some shoals rendered the

entrance of it dangerous. To this bay, which lies about eight or ten

leagues N. by E. from Cape Saint Augustina, the south-east extremity of

the island, I gave the name of _Disappointment Bay_. When we were in the

offing standing in for this bay, we observed a large hummock, which had

the appearance of an island, but which I believe to be a peninsula,

joined by a Low isthmus to the main; this hummock formed the

northernmost part of the entrance, and another high bluff point opposite

to it formed the southernmost part; between these two points are the

shoals that have been mentioned; and several small islands, only one of

which can be seen till they are approached very near. On this part of

the coast we saw no signs of inhabitants; the land is of a stupendous

height, with mountains piled upon mountains till the summits are hidden

in the clouds: In the offing therefore it is almost impossible to

estimate its distance, for what appear then to be small hillocks, just

emerging from the water, in comparison of the mountains that are seen

over them, swell into high hills as they are approached, and the

distance is found to be thrice as much as it was imagined; perhaps this

will account for the land here being so ill laid down, and in situations

so very different, as it appears to be in all our English charts. We

found here a strong current setting to the southward along the shore, as

the land trended. The high land that is to the north of Saint Augustina,

becomes gradually lower towards the Cape, a low flat point in which it

terminates, and off which, at a very little distance, lie two large

rocks. Its latitude is 6° 15' N. and the longitude, by. account, 127°

20' E.

From this Cape the land trends away W. and W. by S. for six or seven

leagues, and then turns up to the N.W. making a very deep bay, the

bottom of which, as we crossed it from Saint Augustina to the high land

on the other side, which is not less than twelve leagues, we could not

see. The coast on the farther side of it, coming up from the bottom,

trends first to the S. and S.S.W. and then to the S.W. by W. towards the

south extremity of the island.

Off this southern extremity, which Dampier calls the south-east by

mistake, the south-east being Saint Augustina, at the distance of five,

six, and seven leagues, lie ten or twelve islands, though Dampier says

there are only two, and that together they are about five leagues round.

The islands that I saw could not be contained in a circuit of less than

fifteen leagues, and from the number of boats that I saw among them I

imagine they are well inhabited. The largest of these lies to the S.W.

of the others, and makes in a remarkable peak, so that it is first seen

in coming in with the land, and is indeed visible at a very great

distance. Its latitude I make 5° 24' N., and its longitude, by account,

126° 37' E. This island, which I called _Hummock Island_, bears from

Saint Augustina, S. 40 W. at the distance of between twenty and

two-and-twenty leagues; and from the same Cape, the southermost part of

the island Mindanao bears S.W. 3/4 W. at the distance of between

twenty-one and twenty-three leagues. This southermost extremity consists

of three or four points, which bear east and west of each other for

about seven miles. They lie in latitude 5° 34' N., longitude 126° 25' E.

according to my account. The variation here was one point east.

I passed between these islands and the main, and found the passage good,

the current setting to the westward. Dampier has placed his bay and

savannah four leagues N.W. from the easternmost island, and there I

sought it, as indeed I did on all the S.E. part of the island till we

came to the little creek which ran up to the town.

All the southern part of Mindanao is extremely pleasant, with many spots

where the woods had been cleared for plantations, and fine lawns of a

beautiful verdure: This part also is well inhabited, as well as the

neighbouring islands. Of the town I can give no account, as the weather

was so thick that I could not see it; neither could I sufficiently

distinguish the land to set off the points, at which I was not a little

mortified.

When I came to open the land to the westward of the southermost point, I

found it trend from that point W.N.W. and N.W. by W. forming first a

point at the distance of about seven or eight leagues, and then a very

deep bay running so far into the N. and N.E. that I could not see the

bottom of it. The westermost point of this bay is low, but the land soon

rises again, and runs along to the N.W. by W., which seems to be the

direction of this coast, from the southermost point of the island

towards the city of Mindanao.

To the westward of this deep bay, the land is all flat, and in

comparison of the other parts of the island, but thinly wooded. Over

this flat appears a peak of stupendous height, which rises into the

clouds like a tower. Between the entrance of this bay and the south

point of the island there is another very high hill, the top of which

has the funnel shape of a volcano, but I did not perceive that it

emitted either fire or smoke. It is possible that this deep bay is that

which Dampier mentions, and that is misplaced by an error of the press;

for, if, instead of saying it bore N.W. _four_ leagues from the

_eastermost_ of the islands, he had said it bore N.W. _fourteen_ leagues

from the _westermost_ of the islands, it would correspond well with his

description, the bearings being the same, and the land on the east side

of it high, and low on the west: He is also nearly right in the latitude

of his islands, which he makes 5° 10' N.; for probably some parts of

the southermost of them may lie in that latitude; but as I did not go to

the southward of them, this is only conjecture.

Between Hummock Island, which is the largest and westermost of them, and

the islands to the eastward of it, which are all flat and even, is a

passage running north and south, which appears to be clear. The

north-eastermost of these islands is small, low, and flat, with a white

sandy beach all round it, and a great many trees in the middle. East, or

north-east of this island, there are shoals and breakers; and I saw no

other appearance of danger in these parts. Neither did I see any of the

islands which are mentioned by Dampier, and laid down in all the charts,

near Mindanao in the offing: Perhaps they are at a more remote distance

than is commonly supposed; for without great attention, navigators will

be much deceived in this particular by the height of the land, as I have

observed already. As I coasted this island, I found the current set very

strong to the southward along the shore, till I came to the south end of

it, where I found it run N.W. and N.W. by W. which is nearly as the land

trends. We had the winds commonly from S.W. to N.W. with light airs,

frequent rain, and unsettled weather.

We now bid farewell to Mindanao, greatly disappointed in our hope of

obtaining refreshments, which at first the inhabitants so readily

promised to furnish. We suspected that there were Dutchmen, or at least

Dutch partisans in the town; and that, having discovered us to be

English, they had dispatched an armed party to prevent our having any

intercourse with the natives, who arrived about two hours after our

friendly conference, and were the people that defied us from the shore.

SECTION IX.

_The Passage from Mindanao to the Island of Celebes, with a particular

Account of the Streight of Macassar, in which many Errors are

corrected._

After leaving Mindanao, I stood to the westward for the passage between

the islands of Borneo and Celebes, called the Streight of Macassar, and

made it on Saturday the 14th. I observed, that during the whole of this

run we had a strong north-westerly current; but that while we were

nearer to Mindanao than Celebes, it ran rather towards the north than

the west; and that when we came nearer to Celebes than we were to

Mindanao, it ran rather towards the west than the north. The land of

Celebes on the north end runs along to the entrance of the passage, is

very lofty, and seems to trend away about W. by S. to a remarkable point

in the passage, which makes in a hummock, and which at first we took for

an island. I believe it to be the same which in the French charts is

called Stroomen Point, but I gave it the name of _Hummock Point_. Its

latitude, according to my account, is 1° 20' N., longitude 121° 39' E.;

and it is a good mark for those to know the passage that fall in with

the land coming from the eastward, who, if possible, should always make

this side of the passage. From Hummock Point the land trends more away

to the southward, about S.W. by W. and to the southward of it there is a

deep bay, full of islands and rocks, which appeared to me to be very

dangerous. Just off the point there are two rocks, which, though they

are above water, cannot be seen, from a ship till she is close to the

land. To the eastward of this point, close to the shore, are two

islands, one of them very flat, long, and even, and the other swelling

into a hill; both these islands, as well as the adjacent country, are

well covered with trees: I stood close in a little to the eastward of

them, and had no ground with an hundred fathom, within half a mile of

the shore, which seemed to be rocky. A little to the westward of these

islands, we saw no less than sixty boats, which were fishing on some

shoals that lie between them and Hammock Point. This part of the shore

appeared to be foul, and I think should not be approached without great

caution. In this place I found the currents various and uncertain,

sometimes setting to the southward, and sometimes to the northward, and

sometimes there was no current at all; the weather also was very

unsettled, and so was the wind; it blew, however, chiefly to the south

and south-west quarter, but we had sometimes sudden and violent gusts,

and tornadoes from the N.W. with thunder, lightning, and rain: These

generally lasted about an hour, when they were succeeded by a dead calm,

and the wind would afterwards spring up fresh from the S.W. or S.S.W.

which was right against us, and blow strong. From these appearances I

conjectured that the shifting season had commenced, and that the west

monsoon would soon set in. The ship sailed so ill that we made very

little way; we frequently sounded in this passage, but could get no

ground.

On the 21st of November, as we were standing towards Borneo, we made two

small islands, which I judged to be the same that in the French chart

are called Taba Islands: They are very small, and covered with trees. By

my account, they lie in latitude 1° 44' N., longitude 7° 32 W. off the

south end of Mindanao, and are distant from Hummock, or Stroomen Point,

about fifty-eight leagues. The weather was now hazy, but happening

suddenly to clear up, we saw a shoal, with breakers, at the distance of

about five or six miles, from the south to the north-west. Off the north

end of this shoal we saw four hummocks close together, which we took for

small islands, and seven more from the S. 1/2 W. to the W. 1/2 S.:

Whether these are really islands, or some hills on the island of Borneo,

I could not determine. This shoal is certainly very dangerous, but may

be avoided by going to the westward of Taba Islands, where the passage

is clear and broad. In the French chart of Monsieur D'Apres de

Mandevillette, published in 1745, two shoals are laid down, to the

eastward, and a little to the north of these islands: One of them is

called Vanloorif, and the other, on which are placed two islands,

Harigs; but these shoals and islands have certainly no existence, as I

turned through this part of the passage from side to side, and sailed

over the very spot where they are supposed to lie. In the same chart

seven small islands are also laid down within half a degree to the

northward of the Line, and exactly in the middle of the narrowest part

of this passage; but neither have these islands any existence, except

upon paper, though I believe there may-be some small islands close to

the main land of Borneo: We thought we had seen two, which we took to be

those that are laid down in the charts off Porto Tubo, but of this I am

not certain. The southermost and narrowest part of this passage is about

eighteen or twenty leagues broad, with high lands on each side. We

continued labouring in it till the 27th, before we crossed the Line, so

that we were a fortnight in sailing eight-and-twenty leagues, the

distance from the north entrance of the streight, which we made on the

14th. After we got to the southward of the Line, we found a slight

current setting against us to the northward, which daily increased: The

weather was still unsettled, with much wet: The winds were chiefly S.W.

and W.S.W. and very seldom farther to the northward than W.N.W. except

in the tornadoes, which grew more frequent and violent; and by them we

got nothing but hard labour, as they obliged us to hand all our sails,

which indeed with our utmost effort we were scarcely able to do, our

debility daily increasing by the falling sick of the few that were well,

or the death of some among the many that were sick. Under these

circumstances we used our utmost endeavours to get hold of the land on

the Borneo side, but were not able, and continued to struggle with our

misfortunes till the 3d of December, when we fell in with the small

islands and shoals called the Little Pater-nosters, the southermost of

which, according to my account, lies in latitude 2° 31' S. and the

northermost in 2° 15' S. the longitude of the northermost I made 117°

12' E.: They bear about S.E. 1/4 S. and N.W. 1/4 N. of each other,

distant eight leagues, and between them are the others; the number of

the whole is eight. They lie very near the Celebes side of the straight,

and being unable either to weather them, or get to the westward of them,

we were obliged to go between them and the island. We had here

tempestuous weather and contrary winds, with sudden and impetuous gusts,

which, as we had not a number of hands sufficient to bend the sails,

often endangered our masts and yards, and did great damage to our sails

and rigging, especially at this time, as we were obliged to carry all

the sail we could to prevent our falling into a deep bight, on the

Celebes shore. The ravages of the scurvy were now universal, there not

being one individual among us that was free, and the winds and currents

being so hard against us, that we could neither get westing nor southing

to reach any place of refreshment; the mind participated in the

sufferings of the body, and a universal despondency was reflected from

one countenance to another, especially among those who were not able to

come upon the deck. In this deplorable situation we continued till the

10th, and it is not perhaps very easy for the most fertile imagination

to conceive by what our danger and distress could possibly be increased;

yet debilitated, sick, and dying as we were, in sight of land that we

could not reach, and exposed to tempests which we could not resist, we

had the additional misfortune to be attacked by a pirate: That this

unexpected mischief might lose none of its force, it happened at

midnight, when the darkness that might almost be felt, could not fail to

co-operate with whatever tended to produce confusion and terror. This

sudden attack, however, rather roused than depressed us, and though our

enemy attempted to board us, before we could have the least apprehension

that an enemy was near, we defeated his purpose: He then plied us with

what we supposed to be swivel guns, and small arms, very briskly; but

though he had the start of us, we soon returned his salute with such

effect, that shortly after he sunk, and all the unhappy, wretches on

board perished. It was a small vessel, but of what country, or how

manned, it was impossible for us to know. The lieutenant, and one of the

men, were wounded, though not dangerously; part of our running rigging

was cut, and we received some other slight damage. We knew this pirate

to be a vessel which we had seen in the dusk of the evening, and we

afterwards learned that she belonged to a freebooter, who had more than

thirty such vessels under his command. The smallness of our vessel

encouraged the attack, and her strength being so much more than in

proportion to her size, supposing her a merchantman, rendered it fatal.

On Saturday the 12th, we fell in with the dangerous shoals called the

Spera Mondes, and had the mortification to find that the westerly

monsoon was now set in, against which, and the current, it was

impossible for any ship to get as far westward as Batavia. As it was now

necessary to wait till the return of the eastern monsoon, and the

shifting of the current; as we had buried thirteen of our crew, and no

less than thirty more were at the point of death; as all the petty

officers were among the sick, and the lieutenant and myself, who did all

duties, in a feeble condition; it was impossible that we should keep the

sea, and we had no chance of preserving those who were still alive, but

by getting on shore at some place, where rest and refreshment might be

procured; I therefore determined that I would take advantage of our

being so far to the southward, and endeavour to reach Macassar, the

principal settlement of the Dutch upon the island of Celebes.

The next day, we made some islands which lie not far from that place,

and saw, what sometimes we took for shoals, and sometimes for boats with

men on board, but what afterwards appeared to be trees, and other drift,

floating about, with birds sitting upon them; we suddenly found

ourselves twenty miles farther to the southward than we expected, for

the current, which had for some time set us to the northward, had set us

to the southward during the night. We now hauled up east, and E. 1/2 N.

intending to have gone to the northward of a shoal, which has no name in

our East India Pilot, but which the Dutch call the Thumb: By noon,

however, we found ourselves upon it, our water shallowing at once to

four fathom, with rocky ground. We now hauled off to the south-west, and

keeping the boat a-head to sound, ran round the west side of the shoal

in ten and twelve fathom; our water deepening when we hauled off to the

west, and shallowing when we hauled off east. Our latitude, by

observation, when we were upon the shoal, was 5° 20' S. and the

northernmost of the islands, called the Three Brothers, then, bore S. 81

E. at the distance of five or six leagues. This island is, in the

English Pilot, called Don Dinanga, but by the Dutch the North Brother.

Between the Three Brothers, and the main of Celebes, there is another

island, much larger than either of them, called the island of Tonikiky;

but none of them are inhabited, though there are a few huts belonging to

fishermen upon them all. The passage between the shoal and this island

is clear and good, with from ten to thirteen fathom and a sandy bottom;

but the soundings are to be kept on the side of the island in twelve

fathom, and never under ten: It is, however, very difficult and

dangerous for ships to fall in with the land this way without a pilot on

board, for there are many shoals and rocks under water. I ran in by a

chart in the English East India Pilot, which upon the whole I round a

good one, though the names of the islands, points, and bays, differ very

much from those by which they are now known. When we got near to the

Celebes shore, we had land and sea-breezes, which obliged us to edge

along the coast, though our strength was so much reduced, that it was

with the utmost difficulty we could work the stream anchor.

In the evening of Tuesday the 15th, we anchored at about the distance of

four miles from the town of Macassar, which, according to my account,

lies in latitude 5° 10' or 5° 12' S., longitude 117° 28'E. having spent

no less than five and thirty weeks in out passage from the Streight of

Magellan.

I have been the more particular in my description of as much as I saw

of this streight, because all the charts, both English and French, that

I consulted, are extremely deficient and erroneous, and because an exact

knowledge of it may be of great service to our China trade: The ships by

which that trade is carried on, may pass this way with as little danger

as by the common one, which lies along the Prassel shoals; and when they

miss their passage to China, in the south-east monsoon, and lose the

season, they may be sure of a clear channel here, and fair winds at

W.S.W., W. and round to W.N.W., in November, December, and the four

following months: I am also of opinion, that it is a better and shorter

way to go to the N.E. and eastward of the Philippine Islands, than to

thread the Moluccas, or coast New Guinea, where there are shoals,

currents, and innumerable other dangers, as they were forced to do when

the French were cruising for them in the common passage during the last

war.

SECTION X.

_Transactions off Macassar, and the Passage thence to Bonthain._

The same night that we came to an anchor, at about eleven o'clock, a

Dutchman came on board, who had been dispatched by the governor, to

learn who we were. When I made him understand that the ship was an

English man-of-war, he seemed to be greatly alarmed, no man-of-war

belonging to the King of Great Britain having ever been there before,

and I could not by any means persuade him to leave the deck, and go down

into the cabin; we parted, however, to all appearance, good friends.

The next morning, at break of day, I sent the lieutenant to the town,

with a letter to the governor, in which I acquainted him with the reason

of my coming thither, and requested the liberty of the port to procure

refreshments for my ship's company, who were in a dying condition, and

shelter for the vessel against the approaching storms, till the return

of a fit season for sailing to the westward. I ordered that this letter

should, without good reason to the contrary, be delivered into the

governor's own hand; but when my officer got to the wharf of the town,

neither he nor any other person in the boat was suffered to land. Upon

his refusal to deliver the letter to a messenger, the governor was made

acquainted with it, and two officers, called the shebander and the

fiscal, were sent down to him, who, as a reason why he could not deliver

the letter to the governor himself, pretended that he was sick, and

said, that they came by his express order to fetch it; upon this the

letter was at length delivered to them, and they went away. While they

were gone, the officer and men were kept on board their boat, exposed to

the burning heat of the sun, which was almost vertical at noon, and none

of the country boats were suffered to come near enough to sell them any

refreshment. In the mean time, our people observed a great hurry and

bustle on shore, and all the sloops and vessels that were proper for war

were fitted out with the utmost expedition: We should, however, I

believe, have been an overmatch for their whole sea force, if all our

people had been well. In the mean time I intended to have gone and

anchored close to the town; but now the boat was absent, our united

strength was not sufficient to weigh the anchor though a small one.

After waiting five hours in the boat, the lieutenant was told that the

governor had ordered two gentlemen to wait upon me with an answer to my

letter. Soon after he had returned, and made this report, the two

gentlemen came on board, and we afterwards learned that one of them was

an ensign of the garrison, named Le Cerf, and-the other Mr Douglas, a

writer of the Dutch East India company: They delivered me the governor's

letter, but it proved to be written in Dutch, a language which not a

single person on board could understand: The two gentlemen who brought

it, however, both spoke French, and one of them interpreted the contents

to me in that language. The purport of it was, "that I should instantly

depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town; that I

should not anchor on any part of the coast, or permit any of my people

to land in any place that was under his jurisdiction." Before I made any

reply to this letter, I shewed the gentlemen who brought it the number

of my sick: At the sight of so many unhappy wretches, who were dying of

languor and disease, they seemed to be much affected; and I then urged

again the pressing necessity I was under of procuring refreshment, to

which they had been witnesses, the cruelty and injustice of refusing to

supply me, which was not only contrary to treaty, as we were in a king's

ship, but to the laws of nature, as we were human beings: They seemed to

admit the force of this reasoning, but they had a short and final answer

ready, "that they had absolute and indispensable orders from their

masters, not to suffer any ship, of whatever nation, to stay at this

port, and that these orders they must implicitly obey." To this I

replied, that persons in our situation had nothing worse to fear than

what they suffered, and that therefore, if they did not immediately

allow me the liberty of the port, to purchase refreshments, and procure

shelter, I would, as soon as the wind would permit, in defiance of all

their menaces, and all their force, go and anchor close to the town;

that if at last I should find myself unable to compel them to comply

with requisitions, the reasonableness of which could not be

controverted, I would run the ship a-ground under their walls, and,

after selling our lives as dearly as we could, bring upon, them the

disgrace of having reduced a friend and ally to so dreadful an

extremity. At this they seemed to be alarmed, as our situation alone was

sufficient to convince them that I was in earnest, and urged me with

great emotion to remain where I was, at least till I had heard again

from the governor: To this, after some altercation, I consented, upon

condition that I heard from the governor before the sea-breeze set in

the next day.

We passed all the remainder of this day, and all the night, in a state

of anxiety, not unmixed with indignation, that greatly aggravated our

distress; and very early the next morning, we had the mortification to

see a sloop that mounted eight carriage guns, and one of the vessels of

the country, fitted out for war, with a great number of soldiers on

board, come from the town, and anchor under each of our bows. I

immediately sent my boat to speak with them, but they would make no

reply to any thing that was said. About noon, the sea-breeze set in, and

not having then heard again from the governor, I got under sail, and

proceeded towards the town, according to my declaration, resolving, if

the vessels that had anchored under our bows should oppose us, to

repress force with force as far as we were able: These two vessels,

however, happily both for us and for them, contented themselves with

weighing anchor, and attending our motions.

Very soon after we had got under sail, a handsome vessel, with a band of

music, and several gentlemen on board, made up to us, and told us that

they were sent by the governor, but could not come on board if we did

not drop our anchor again; our anchor therefore was immediately dropped,

and the gentlemen came on board: They proved to be Mr Blydenbourg the

fiscal, Mr Voll the shebander, an officer called the licence-master, or

master of the port, and Mr Douglas the writer, who has been mentioned

already. They expressed some surprise at my having got under sail, and

asked me what I intended to have done; I told them that I intended

neither more nor less than to fulfil the declarations I had made the day

before; that, justified by the common rights of mankind, which were

superior to every other law, I would, rather than have put again to sea,

where our destruction, either by shipwreck, sickness, or famine, was

inevitable, have come up to their walls, and either have compelled them

to furnish the necessaries we wanted, or have run the ship on shore,

since it was better to perish at once in a just contest, than to suffer

the lingering misery of anticipating the perdition that we could not

avoid. I observed also, that no civilized people had ever suffered even

the captives of war to perish for want of the necessaries of life, much

less the subjects of an ally, who asked nothing but permission to

purchase food with their money. They readily allowed the truth of all I

had said, but seemed to think I had been too hasty: I then observed that

I had waited the full time of my stipulation, and they in return made

some excuse for their not having come sooner, telling me, that as a

proof of their having admitted my claim, they had brought me such

provisions as their country would afford. These were immediately taken

on board, and consisted of two sheep, an elk ready hilled, and a few

fowls, with some vegetables and fruit. This most welcome supply was

divided among the people; and that most salutary, and to us exquisite

dainty, broth, made for the sick. Another letter from the governor was

then produced, in which, to my great disappointment, I was again ordered

to leave the port, and to justify the order, it was alleged, that to

suffer a ship of any nation to stay and trade, either at this port, or

any other part of the island, was contrary to the agreement which had

been made by the East India Company with the native kings and governors

of the country, who had already expressed some displeasure on our

account; and for farther particulars I was referred to the gentlemen

that brought the letter, whom the governor styled his commissaries. To

these gentlemen I immediately observed, that no stipulation concerning

trade could affect us, as we were a king's ship; at the same time I

produced my commission, it not being possible to bring under the article

of trade the selling us food and refreshments for our money, without the

utmost violence to language and common sense. After this they made me

several propositions, which I rejected, because my departure from this

place, before the return of the season, was included in them all. I then

recurred to my former declaration, and to enforce it, shewed them the

corpse of a man who had died that morning, and whose life would probably

have been saved, if they had afforded us refreshments when we first came

to an anchor upon their coast. This put them to a stand, but, after a

short pause, they enquired very particularly whether I had been among

the spice islands; I answered them in the negative, and they appeared to

be convinced that I spoke truth. After this, we came to a better

understanding, and they told me, that though they could not, without

disobedience to the most direct and positive orders of the Company,

suffer us to remain here, yet that I was welcome to go to a little bay

not far distant, where I should find effectual shelter from the bad

monsoon, and might erect an hospital for my sick, assuring me at the

same time that provision and refreshments were more plenty there than at

Macassar, from whence, whatever else I wanted should be sent me, and

offering me a good pilot to carry me to my station. To this I gladly

consented, upon condition that what they had offered should be confirmed

to me by the governor and council of Macassar, that I might be

considered as under the protection of the Dutch nation, and that no

violence should be offered to my people: For all this they engaged their

honour on behalf of the governor and council, promising me the assurance

I had required on the next day, and requesting that in the mean time I

would remain where I was. I then enquired why the two vessels which were

at anchor under our bows were allotted to that station; and they told

me, for no other reason than to prevent the people of the country from

offering us any violence. When matters were thus far settled between us,

I expressed my concern that, except a glass of wine, I could present

them with nothing better than bad salt meat, and bread full of weevils;

upon which they very politely desired that I would permit their

servants to bring in the victuals which had been dressing in their own

vessel; I readily consented, and a very genteel dinner was soon served

up, consisting of fish, flesh, vegetables, and fruit. It is with the

greatest pleasure that I take this opportunity of acknowledging my

obligations to these gentlemen for the politeness and humanity of their

behaviour in their private capacity, and particularly to Mr Douglas,

who, being qualified by his knowledge of the French language to

interpret between us, undertook that office, with a courtesy and

politeness which very much increased the value of the favour. After this

we parted, and at their leaving the ship, I saluted them with nine guns.

The next morning the shebander was sent to acquaint me, that the

governor and council had confirmed the engagement which had been made

with me on their behalf. Every thing was now settled much to my

satisfaction, except the procuring money for my bills upon the

government of Great Britain, which the shebander said he would solicit.

At eight o'clock in the evening, he came on board again, to let me know

that there was not any person in the town who had money to remit to

Europe, and that there was not a dollar in the Company's chest. I

answered, that as I was not permitted to go on shore to negociate my

bills myself, I hoped they would give me credit, offering him bills for

any debt I should contract, or to pay it at Batavia. To this the

shebander replied, that the resident at Bonthain, the place to which I

was going, would receive orders to supply me with whatever I should

want, and would be glad to take my bills in return, as he had money to

remit, and was himself to go to Europe the next season. He told me also,

that he had considerable property in England, being a denizen of that

country; "and," said the shebander, "he has also money in my hands, with

which I will purchase such things as you want from Macassar, and see

that they are sent after you." Having specified what these articles were

to be, and agreed with him for the quantity and the price, we parted.

The next day, in the afternoon, I received a letter, signed by the

governor and council of Macassar, containing the reasons why I was sent

to Bonthain, and confirming the verbal agreement which subsisted between

us.

Soon after, the ensign M. le Cerf, the secretary of the council, and a

pilot, came on board to attend us to Bonthain. Le Cerf was to command

the soldiers who were on board the guard boats; and the secretary, as we

afterwards discovered, was to be a check upon the resident whose name

was Swellingrabel. This gentleman's father died second governor at the

Cape of Good Hope, where he married an English lady of the name of

Fothergill. Mr Swellingrabel, the resident here, married the daughter of

Cornelius Sinklaar, who had been governor of Macassar, and died some

time ago in England, having come hither to see some of his mother's

relations.

SECTION XI

_Transactions at Bonthain, while the Vessel was waiting for a Wind to

carry her to Batavia, with some Account of the Place, the Town of

Macassar, and the adjacent Country._

The next morning at day-break we sailed, and the day following in the

afternoon we anchored in Bonthain road with our two guard-boats, which

were immediately moored close in to the shore, to prevent the country

boats from coming near us, and our boats from going near them. As soon

as I arrived at this place, I altered our reckoning. I had lost about

eighteen hours, in coming by the west, and the Europeans that we found

here having come by the east had gained about six, so that the

difference was just a day.

I immediately waited upon the resident, Mr Swellingrabel, who spoke

English but very imperfectly, and having settled with him all matters

relating to money and provisions, a house was allotted me near the

sea-side, and close to a little pallisadoed fort of eight guns, the only

one in this place, which I converted into an hospital, under the

direction of the surgeon; to this place I immediately sent all the

people who were thought incapable of recovering on board, and reserved

the rest as a security against accidents. As soon as our people were on

shore, a guard of thirty-six private men, two serjeants, and two

corporals, all under the command of Ensign Le Cerf, was set over them;

and none of them were suffered to go more than thirty yards from the

hospital, nor were any of the country people allowed to come near enough

to sell them any thing; so that our men got nothing of them, but through

the hands of the Dutch soldiers, who abused their power very shamefully.

When they saw any of the country people carrying what they thought our

invalids would purchase, they first took it away, and then asked the

price: What was demanded signified little, the soldier gave what he

thought proper, which was seldom one-fourth of the value; and if the

countryman ventured to express any discontent, he gave him immediately

an earnest of perfect satisfaction, by flourishing his broad-sword over

his head: This was always sufficient to silence complaint, and send the

sufferer quietly away; after which the soldier sold what he had thus

acquired for profit of sometimes more than a thousand per cent. This

behaviour was so cruel to the natives, and so injurious to us, that I

ventured to complain of it to the resident, and the other two gentlemen,

Le Cerf and the secretary. The resident, with becoming spirit,

reprimanded the soldiers; but it produced so little effect that I could

not help entertaining suspicions that Le Cerf connived at these

practices, and shared the advantages which they produced. I suspected

him also of selling arrack to my people, of which I complained, but

without redress; and I know that his slaves were employed to buy things

at the market which his wife afterwards sold to us for more than twice

as much as they cost. The soldiers were indeed guilty of many other

irregularities: It was the duty of one of them by rotation to procure

the day's provision for the whole guard, a service which he constantly

performed by going into the country with his musket and a bag; nor was

the honest proveditor always content with what the bag would contain;

for one of them, without any ceremony, drove down a young buffalo that

belonged to some of the country people, and his comrades not having wood

at hand to dress it when it was killed, supplied themselves by pulling

down some of the pallisadoes of the fort. When this was reported to me,

I thought it so extraordinary that I went on shore to see the breach,

and found the poor black people repairing it.

On the 26th, a sloop laden with rice was sent out from this place in

order to land her cargo at Macassar; but after having attempted it three

days she was forced to return. The weather was now exceedingly

tempestuous, and all navigation at an end from east to west till the

return of the eastern monsoon. On the same day two large sloops that

were bound to the eastward anchored here, and the next morning also a

large ship from Batavia, with troops on board for the Banda Islands; but

none of the crew of any of these vessels were suffered to speak to any

of our people, our boats being restrained from going on board them, and

theirs from coming on board us. As this was a mortifying restriction, we

requested Mr Swellingrabel to buy us some salt meat from the large ship;

and he was so obliging as to procure us four casks of very good European

meat, two of pork, and two of beef.

On the 28th a fleet of more than an hundred sail of the small country

vessels, called proas, anchored here; their burden is from twelve to

eighteen and twenty tons, and they carry from sixteen to twenty men. I

was told that they carried on a fishery round the island, going out with

one monsoon, and coming back with the other, so as always to keep under

the lee of the land: The fish was sent to the China market, and I

observed that all these vessels carried Dutch colours.

No event worthy of notice happened till the 18th of January, and then I

learnt by a letter from Macassar that the Dolphin had been at Batavia.

On the 28th, the secretary of the council, who had been sent hither with

Le Cerf, as we supposed to be a check upon the resident, was called to

Macassar. By this time our carpenter, having in a great degree recovered

his health, examined the state of our vessel, and to our great regret

she appeared to be very leaky: Our main yard also was found not only to

be sprung, but to be rotten and unserviceable. We got it down and

patched it up as well as we could, without either iron or a forge, so

that we hoped it would serve us till we got to Batavia, for no wood was

to be procured here of which a new one could be made. To our leaks very

little could be done, and we were therefore reduced to an entire

dependence upon our pumps.

On Friday the 19th of February, Le Cerf, the military officer who

commanded the soldiers on shore, was recalled, as it was said, to fit

out an expedition for the island of Bally; on the 7th of March, the

largest of our guard-boats, a sloop about forty-five tons, was ordered

back to Macassar with part of the soldiers; and on the 9th, the

resident, Mr Swellingrabel, received a letter from the governor of that

place, enquiring when I should sail for Batavia. I must confess, that I

was surprised at the recal of the officer, and the guard boat; but I was

much more surprised at the contents of the governor's letter, because he

knew that it was impossible I should sail till May, as the eastern

monsoon would not sooner set in. All matters, however, remained in the

same situation till near the end of the month, when some of my people

took notice, that for a short time past a small canoe had gone round us

several times at different hours of the night, and had disappeared as

soon as those on board perceived any body stirring in the ship. On the

29th, while these things were the subjects of speculation, one of my

officers who came from the shore brought me a letter, which he said had

been delivered to him by a black man: It was directed, "To the Commander

of the English ship at Bonthyn." That the reader may understand this

letter, it is necessary to acquaint him, that the island of Celebes is

divided into several districts, which are distinct sovereignties of the

native princes. The town of Macassar is in a district called also

Macassar, or Bony, the king of which is in alliance with the Dutch, who

have been many times repulsed in an attempt to reduce other parts of the

island, one of which is inhabited by a people called Buggueses, and

another is called Waggs or Tosora. The town of Tosora is fortified with

cannon, for the natives had been long furnished with fire-arms from

Europe, before the Dutch settled themselves at Macassar in the room of

the Portuguese.

The letter acquainted me, that a design had been formed by the Dutch, in

conjunction with the king of Bony, to cut us off: That the Dutch,

however, were not to appear in it: That the business was to be done by a

son of the king of Bony, who was, besides a gratuity from the Dutch, to

receive the plunder of the vessel for his reward, and who, with eight

hundred men, was then at Bonthain for that purpose: That the motive was

jealousy of our forming a connection with the Buggueses, and other

people of the country, who were at enmity with the Dutch and their

allies, and driving them out of the island; or at least a suspicion

that, if we got back to England, some project of that kind might be

founded upon the intelligence we should give, no English man-of-war, as

I have already observed, having ever been known to have visited the

island before.

This letter was a new subject of surprise and speculation. It was

extremely ill written with respect to the style and manner, yet it did

not therefore the less deserve notice. How far the intelligence which it

contained was true or false, I was utterly unable to determine: It was

possible that the writer might be deceived himself; it was also possible

that he might have some view in wilfully deceiving me: The falsehood

might procure some little reward for the kindness and zeal which it

placed to his account, or it might give him an importance which would at

least be a gratification to his vanity. It behoved me, however, to take

the same measures as if I had known it to be true; and I must confess,

that I was not perfectly at ease when I recollected the recal of the

Secretary and Le Cerf, with the large sloop, and part of the soldiers,

who were said to have been sent hither for no other reason than to guard

us against the insults of the country people; the assembling an armed

force at Macassar, as it was said, for an expedition to Bally; and the

little canoe that we had seen rowing round us in the night, not to

mention the governor's enquiry by letter, when we intended to leave the

island. However, whether either our intelligence or conjectures were

true or false, we immediately went to work: We rigged the ship, bent the

sails, unmoored, got springs upon our cables, loaded all our guns, and

barricadoed the deck. At night every body slept under arms, and the next

day we warped the vessel farther off from the bottom of the bay, towards

the eastern shore, that we might have more room, fixed four swivel guns

on the forepart of the quarter-deck, and took every other measure that

appeared to be necessary for our defence.

The resident, Mr Swellingrabel, was at this time absent twenty miles up

the country upon the Company's business, but had told me, that he should

certainly return on the 1st of April, a day which I now expected with

great impatience, especially as an old drunken serjeant was the most

respectable person at the fort. In the evening of the 31st, a packet of

letters for him arrived here from Macassar, which I considered as a

good omen, and a pledge of his return at the time appointed; but I

conceived very different sentiments when I learnt that they were sent to

him. I did not suspect that he was privy to any such design as had been

intimated to me by the letter; but I could not help doubting, whether he

was not kept in the country that he might be out of the way when it

should be executed. In this state of anxiety and suspense, I sent a

message to the fort, desiring that an express might be dispatched to

him, to acquaint him that I wished to see him immediately upon business

of great importance, which would admit of no delay. Whether my message

was forwarded to him or not, I cannot tell; but having waited till the

4th of April, without having seen him or received any answer, I wrote

him a letter, requesting to speak with him, in the most pressing terms,

and the next day he came on board. A few minutes convinced me that he

was wholly a stranger to any such design as I had been made to

apprehend; and he was clearly of opinion that no such design had been

formed. He said, indeed, that one Tomilaly, a counsellor or minister of

the king of Bony, had lately paid him a visit, and had not well

accounted for his being in this part of the country; and, at my request,

he very readily undertook to make farther enquiries concerning him and

his people. The resident and his attendants took notice that the ship

was put into a state of defence, and that every thing was ready for

immediate action; and he told us, that the people on shore had

acquainted him, before he came on board, with our vigilance and

activity, and in particular, with our having exercised the ship's

company at small arms every day. I informed him, that we should, at all

events, continue upon our guard, which he seemed to approve, and we

parted with mutual protestations of friendship and good faith. After a

few days, he sent me word that having made a very strict enquiry,

whether any other persons belonging to the king of Bony had been at

Bonthain, he had been credibly informed that one of the princes of that

kingdom had been there in disguise; but that of the eight hundred men

who were said in my intelligence to be with him, he could find no

traces; so that, except they too, like the troops of the king of

Brentford, were an army in disguise, I knew that no such people could be

in that country.

On the 16th, in the morning, the resident sent me word, that M. Le Cerf

was returned from Macassar with another officer, and that they would

come on board and dine with me. When dinner was over, I asked Le Cerf,

among other conversation, while we were taking our wine, what was become

of his expedition to Bally; to which he answered dryly, that it was laid

aside, without saying any thing more upon the subject. On the 23d, he

returned to Macassar by sea, and the other officer, who was also an

ensign, remained to take the command of the soldiers that were still

left at this place.

The season now approached in which navigation to the westward would be

again practicable, which gave us all great pleasure; especially as

putrid diseases had begun to make their appearance among us, and a

putrid fever had carried off one of our people.

On the 7th of May, the resident gave me a long letter from the governor

of Macassar, which was written in Dutch, and of which he gave me the

best interpretation he was able; The general purport of it was, that he

had heard a letter had been sent to me, charging him, in conjunction

with the king of Bony, with a design to cut us off: That the letter was

altogether false, exculpating himself with the roost solemn

protestations, and requiring the letter to be delivered up, that the

writer might be brought to such punishment as he deserved. It is

scarcely necessary to say, that I did not deliver up the letter, because

the writer would certainly have been punished with equal severity

whether it was true or false; but I returned the governor a polite

answer, in which I justified the measures I had taken, without imputing

any evil design to him or his allies; and indeed there is the greatest

reason to believe, that there was not sufficient ground for the charge

contained in the letter, though it is not equally probable that the

writer believed it to be false.

At day-break on Sunday the 22d of May, we sailed from this place, of

which, and of the town of Macassar, and the adjacent country, I shall

say but little, there being many accounts of the island of Celebes and

its inhabitants already extant. The town is built upon a kind of point

or neck of land, and is watered by a river or two, which either run

through, or very near it. It seems to be large, and there is water for a

ship to come within half cannon-shot of the walls: The country about it

is level, and has a most beautiful appearance; it abounds with

plantations, and groves of cocoa-nut trees, with a great number of

houses interspersed, by which it appears to abound with people. At a

distance inland, the country rises into hills of a great height, and

becomes rude and mountainous. The town lies in latitude 5° 10' or 5° 12'

S. and longitude, by account, 117° 28' E. of London.

Bonthain is a large bay, where ships may lie in perfect security during

both the monsoons: The soundings are good and regular, and the bottom

soft mud; nor is there any danger coming in, but a ledge of rocks which

are above water, and are a good mark for anchoring. The highest land in

sight here is called Bonthain hill, and when a ship is in the offing at

the distance of two or three miles from the land, she should bring this

hill north, or N. 1/2 W., and then run in with it and anchor. We lay

right under it, at the distance of about a mile from the shore. In this

bay there are several small towns; that which is called Bonthain lies in

the north-east part of the bay, and here is the small pallisadoed fort

that has been mentioned already, on which there are mounted eight guns

that carry a ball of about eight pounds weight: It is just sufficient to

keep the country people in subjection, and is intended for no other

purpose: It lies on the south side of a small river, and there is water

for a ship to come close to it. The Dutch resident has the command of

the place, and of Bullocomba, another town which lies about twenty miles

farther to the eastward, where there is such another fort, and a few

soldiers, who at the proper season are employed in gathering the rice,

which the people pay as a tax to the Dutch.

Wood and water are to be procured here in great plenty; we cut our wood

near the river, under Bonthain hill: Our water was procured partly from

that river, and partly from another; when from the other, our boat went

above the fort with the casks that were to be filled, where there is a

good rolling way; but as the river is small, and has a bar, the boat,

after it is loaded, can come out only at high water. There are several

other small rivers in the bay, from which water may be got upon

occasion.

We procured plenty of fresh provisions all the while we lay here at a

reasonable rate: The beef is excellent; but it would be difficult to

procure enough of it for a squadron. Rice may be had in any quantity, so

may fowls and fruit: There are also abundance of wild hogs in the woods,

which may be purchased at a low price, as the natives, being Mahometans,

never eat them. Fish may be caught with the seine, and the natives, at

times, supplied us with turtle; for this, like pork, is a dainty which

they ever touch.

Celebes is the key of the Molucca, or Spice Islands, which, whoever is

in possession of it must necessarily command: Most of the ships that are

bound to them, or to Banda, touch here, and always go between this

island and that of Solayer. The bullocks here are the breed that have

the bunch on the back, besides which the island produces horses,

buffaloes, goats, sheep, and deer. The arrack and sugar that are

consumed here are brought from Batavia.

The latitude of Bonthain hill is 5° 30' S., longitude, by account, 117°

53' E. The variation of the compass while we were here was 1° 16' W. The

tides are very irregular; commonly it is but once high water and once

low water in four-and-twenty hours, and there is seldom six feet

difference between them.

SECTION XII.

_Passage from Bonthain Bay, in the Island of Celebes, to Batavia:

Transactions there, and the Voyage round the Cape of Good Hope to

England._

When we left Bonthain Bay, we kept along the shore, at the distance of

two or three miles, till evening, and then anchored for the night, in

the passage between the two islands of Celebes and Tonikaky, in seven

fathom and a half, with a bottom of soft mud. The next morning, we got

again under sail, and took our departure from Tonikaky, which, according

to my account, lies in latitude 5° 31' S., longitude 117° 17'E.; the

variation here was 1° W. We went to the southward of Tonikaky, and stood

to the westward. About three o'clock in the afternoon, we were abreast

of the easternmost of the islands which in the Dutch charts are called

Tonyn's Islands. This island bore from us about N. by W. at the distance

of four miles, and the two westernmost were in sight. These three

islands make a kind of right-angled triangle with each other, the

distance between the eastermost and westermost is about eleven miles,

and their relative bearings are very nearly east and west. The distance

between the two westermost is nearly the same, and they bear to each

other S. by E. and N. by W. About six o'clock, having just sounded, and

got no ground, we suddenly found ourselves upon a shoal, with not three

fathom, and the water being smooth and clear, we could see great crags

of coral rocks under our bottom: We immediately threw all the sails

aback, and happily got off without damage: We had just passed over the

eastermost edge of it, which is as steep as a wall, for we had not gone

back two cables' length before we were out of soundings again. At this

time, we had the two westermost of the Tonyn Islands in one, bearing N.

by W. at the distance of somewhat more than four miles from the nearest.

This is a very dangerous shoal, and is not laid down in any chart that I

have seen: It seemed to extend itself to the southward and westward, all

round the two westernmost of these three islands, for near six miles,

but about the eastermost island there seemed to be no danger; there was

also a clear passage between this island and the other two. The latitude

of the eastermost and westermost of these islands is 5° 31' S. The

eastermost is distant thirty-four miles due west from Tonikaky, and the

westermost lies ten miles farther.

In the afternoon of the 25th, we found the water much discoloured; upon

which we sounded, and had five-and-thirty fathom, with soft mud. Soon

after we went over to the northermost part of a shoal, and had no more

than ten fathom, with soft mud. In this place, where we found the water

shallowest, it was very foul; it seemed to be still shallower to the

southward, but to the northward of us it appeared to be clear. We had no

observation this day, by which I could ascertain the latitude; but I

believe this to be the northermost part of the shoals that lie to the

eastward of the island Madura, and in the English East-India Pilot are

called Bralleron's Shoals, the same which in the Dutch charts are called

Kalcain's Eylandens. By my reckoning, the part that we went over lies in

5° 50' or 5° 52' S. and 3° 36' to the westward of the island Tonikaky,

or S. 84° 27' W. distance sixty-nine leagues. At eleven o'clock the

same night, we saw, to the northward of us, the southermost of the

islands Salombo. I make its latitude to be 5° 33' S. and its longitude

west of Tonikaky 4° 4', at the distance of about eighty-two or

eighty-three leagues. It bears from the last shoal N.W. by W. 3/4 W. at

the distance of about fourteen leagues. It is to be remarked, that

hereabout, off the island of Madura, the winds of the monsoons are

commonly a month later in settling than at Celebes. The variation here

was not more than half a degree west; and we found the current, which

before set to the southward, now setting to the N.W.

In the afternoon of the 26th, we saw from the mast-head the island of

Luback, and had soundings from thirty-five to forty fathom, with a

bottom of bluish clay. The latitude of this island is 5° 43' S. and

its-longitude 5° 36' west of Tonikaky, from which it is distant about

one hundred and twelve leagues. Its distance west from the islands of

Salombo is thirty-one leagues. We went to the northward of this island,

and found a current setting to the W.N.W.

In the evening of Sunday the 29th, we saw the cluster of small islands

called Carimon-Java. The latitude of the eastermost, which is also the

largest, is 5° 48' S. and its longitude, west of Tonikaky, 7° 52'. From

this island it is distant about one hundred and fifty-eight leagues, and

forty-five leagues from Luback.

On Thursday the 2d of June, we hauled in and made the land of Java,

which proved to be that part of the island which makes the eastermost

point of the Bay of Batavia, called Carawawang Point. When we first got

sight of the land, we had gradually decreased our soundings from forty

to eight-and-twenty fathom, with a bottom of bluish mud. As we steered

along the shore for Batavia, we decreased them gradually, still farther,

to thirteen fathom, the depth in which, night coming on, we anchored

near the two small islands called Leyden and Alkmar, in sight of

Batavia; and in the afternoon of the next day, we anchored in the road,

which is so good that it may well be considered as an harbour. We had

now great reason to congratulate ourselves upon our situation; for

during the whole of our passage from Celebes, the ship admitted so much

water by her leaks, that it was all we could do to keep her from

sinking, with two pumps constantly going.

We found here eleven large Dutch ships, besides several that were less;

one Spanish ship, a Portuguese snow, and several Chinese junks. The next

morning we saluted the town with eleven guns, and the same number was

returned. As this was the birth-day of his Britannic majesty, our

sovereign, we afterwards fired one-and-twenty guns more on that

occasion. We found the variation here to be less than half a degree to

the westward.

In the afternoon, I waited upon the governor, and acquainted him with

the condition of the ship, desiring liberty to repair her defects; to

which he replied, that I must petition the council.

On the 6th, therefore, which was council day, I addressed a letter to

the governor and council, setting forth, more particularly, the

condition of the ship; and, after requesting leave to repair her, I

added, that I _hoped_ they would allow me the use of such wharfs and

storehouses as should be necessary. In the afternoon of the next day,

the shebander, with Mr Garrison, a merchant of the place, as

interpreter, and another person, came to me. After the first

compliments, the shebander said, that he was sent by the governor and

council for a letter, which they had heard I had received when I was at

Bonthain, acquainting me, that a design had been formed to cut off my

ship, that the author of it, who had injured both me and their nation in

the person of the governor of that place, might be punished. I readily

acknowledged that I had received such information, but said, that I had

never told any body it was by letter. The shebander then asked me, if I

would take an oath that I had received no such letter as he had been

directed to demand, to which I answered, that I was surprised at the

question; and desired, that if the council had any such uncommon

requisition to make of me, it might be in writing; and I would give such

reply, as, upon mature consideration, I should think proper. I then

desired to know what answer he had been instructed to give to my letter

concerning the refitting of the ship? Upon which he told me, that the

council had taken offence at my having used the word _hope_, and not

written in the style of request, which had been invariably adopted by

all merchants upon the like occasion. I replied, that no offence was

intended on my part; and that I had used the first words which occurred

to me as proper to express my meaning. Thus we parted; and I heard

nothing more of them till the afternoon of the 9th, when the shebander,

and the same two gentlemen, came to me a second time. The shebander

said, that he was then commissioned from the council, to require a

writing under my hand, signifying, that I believed the report of an

intention formed at the island of Celebes to cut off my ship, was false

and malicious; saying, that he hoped I had a better opinion of the Dutch

nation than to suppose them capable of suffering so execrable a fact to

be perpetrated under their government. Mr Garrison then read me a

certificate, which, by order of the council, had been drawn up for me to

sign: As, whatever was my opinion, I did not think it advisable to sign

such a certificate, especially as it appeared to be made a condition of

complying with my request by the delay of an answer during this

solicitation, I desired the shebander to shew me his authority for the

requisition he had made. He replied, that he had no testimony of

authority but the notoriety of his being a public officer, and the

evidence of the gentlemen that were with him, confirming his own

declaration, that he acted in this particular by the express order of

council. I then repeated my request, that whatever the council required

of me might be given me in writing, that the sense of it might be fixed

and certain, and that I might have time to consider of my reply; but he

gave me to understand, that he could not do this without an order from

the council, and I then absolutely refused to sign the paper, at the

same time desiring an answer to my letter, which they not being prepared

to give, we parted, not in very good humour with each other.

After this, I waited in a fruitless expectation till the 15th, when the

same three gentlemen came to me the third time, and said, they had been

sent to tell me that the council had protested against my behaviour at

Macassar, and my having refused to sign the certificate which had been

required of me, as an insult upon them, and an act of injustice to their

nation. I replied, that I was not conscious of having in any instance

acted contrary to the treaties subsisting between the two kingdoms,

unworthy of my character as an officer, honoured with a commission of

his Britannic majesty, or unsuitable to the trust reposed in me, though

I did not think I had been used by the governor of Macassar as the

subject of a friend and ally; desiring, that if they had any thing to

allege against me, it might be reduced to writing, and laid before the

king my master, to whom alone I thought myself amenable. With this

answer they again departed; and the next day, having not yet received

any answer to my letter, I wrote a second, directed like the first, in

which I represented that the ship's leaks were every day increasing, and

urged, in more pressing terms, my request that she might be repaired,

and that the use of wharfs and store-houses might be afforded me.

On the 18th, the shebander came again to me, and acquainted me, that the

council had given orders for the repair of the ship at Onrust; and as

there was no store-house empty, had appointed one of the company's

vessels to attend me, and take in my stores. I enquired whether there

was not an answer to my letter in writing; to which he answered in the

negative, adding, that it was not usual, a message by him, or some other

officer, having been always thought sufficient.

After this I was supplied, for my money, with every thing I could desire

from the company's stores, without any further difficulty.

A pilot was ordered to attend me, and on the 22d we anchored at Onrust,

where, having cleared the ship, and put her stores on board the

company's vessel, we found the bowsprit and cap, as well as the

main-yard, rotten, and altogether unserviceable, the sheathing every

where eaten off by the worms, and the main planks of the ship's bottom

so much damaged and decayed, that it was absolutely necessary to heave

her down, before she could be sufficiently repaired to sail for Europe;

but as other ships were already heaved down, and consequently the wharfs

at this time preoccupied, the carpenters could not begin their work till

the 24th of July.

Under the hands of these people the ship continued till Tuesday the 16th

of August. When they came to examine her bottom, they found it so bad,

that they were unanimously of opinion it should be shifted: This,

however, I strenuously opposed. I knew she was an old ship; and I was

afraid that if her bottom was opened, it might be found still worse than

it was thought; and possibly so bad, as that, like the Falmouth, she

might be condemned; I therefore desired that a good sheathing only might

be put over all; but the _bawse_, or master-carpenter, would not

consent, except I would certify, under my hand, that what should be done

to the ship was not according to his judgment but my own, which, he

said, was necessary for his justification, if, after such repairs only

as I thought fit to direct had been made, the ship should come short of

her port. As I thought this a reasonable proposition, I readily

complied; but as I was now become answerable for the fate of the ship, I

had her carefully examined by my own carpenter and his mate, myself and

officers always attending. The but-ends of the planks that joined to the

stern were so open, that a man's hand might be thrust in between; seven

chain-plates were broken and decayed; the iron work, in general, was in

a very bad state; several of the knees were loose, and some of them were

broken.

While I remained here, two ships belonging to our India Company put into

this port; and we found, among other private ships from India, one

called the Dudly, from Bengal, which had proved so leaky that it was

impossible to carry her back. Application had been made to the governor

and council for leave to careen her, which had been granted; but as the

wharfs had been kept in continual use, she had been put off above four

months. The captain, not without reason, was apprehensive that he might

be kept here till the worms had eaten through the bottom of his vessel,

and knowing that I had received particular civilities from Admiral

Houting, applied to me to intercede for him, which I was very happy to

do with such success, that a wharf was immediately allotted her. Mr

Houting was an old man, and an admiral in the service of the States,

with the rank of commander-in-chief of their marine, and the ships

belonging to the company in India. He received his first maritime

knowledge on board an English man-of-war, speaks English and French

extremely well, and did honour to the service both by his abilities and

politeness: He was so obliging as to give me a general invitation to his

table, in consequence of which I was often with him; and it is with

pleasure that I take this opportunity of making a public acknowledgment

of the favours I received from him, and bearing this testimony to his

public and private merit. He was indeed the only officer belonging to

the company from whom I received any civility, or with whom I had the

least communication; for I found them, in general, a reserved and

supercilious set of people. The governor, although the servant of a

republic, takes upon himself more state, in some particulars, than any

sovereign prince in Europe. Whenever he goes abroad, he is attended by

a party of horse-guards, and two black men go before his coach in the

manner of running-footmen; each having a large cane in his hand, with

which they not only clear the way, but severely chastise all who do not

pay the homage that is expected from people of all ranks, as well those

belonging to the country as strangers. Almost every body in this place

keeps a carriage, which is drawn by two horses, and driven by a man upon

a box, like our chariots, but is open in front: Whoever, in such a

carriage, meets the governor, either in the town or upon the road, is

expected not only to draw it on one side, but to get out of it, and make

a most respectful obeisance while his excellency's coach goes by; nor

must any carriage that follows him drive past on any account, but keep

behind him, however pressing be the necessity for haste. A very

mortifying homage of the same kind is also exacted by the members of the

council, called Edele Heeren; for whoever meets them is obliged to stop

his coach, and, though not to get out, to stand up in it, and make his

reverence. These Edele Heeren are preceded by one black man with a

stick; nor must any person presume to pass their carriage any more than

that of the governor. These ceremonies are generally complied with by

the captains of Indiamen and other trading ships; but, having the honour

to bear his majesty's commission, I did not think myself at liberty to

pay to a Dutch governor any homage which is not paid to my own

sovereign: It is, however, constantly required of the King's officers;

and two or three days after I came hither, the landlord of the hotel

where I lodged told me, he had been ordered by the shebander to let me

know, that my carriage, as well as others, must stop, if I should meet

the governor or any of the council; but I desired him to acquaint the

shebander, that I could not consent to perform any such ceremony; and

upon his intimating somewhat about the black men with sticks, I told

him, that if any insult should be offered me, I knew how to defend

myself, and would take care to be upon my guard; at the same time

pointing to my pistols, which then happened to lie upon the table. Upon

this he went away, and about three hours afterwards he returned, and

told me he had orders from the governor to acquaint me that I might do

as I pleased. The hotel at which I resided is licensed by the governor

and council, and all strangers are obliged to take up their abode there,

except officers in his majesty's service, who are allowed private

lodgings, which, however, I did not chose.

At this place I continued between three and four months, and during all

that time I had the honour to see the governor but twice. The first time

was at my arrival, when I waited upon him at one of his houses, a little

way in the country; the next was in town, as he was walking before his

house there, when I addressed him upon a particular occasion. Soon after

the news of the Prince of Orange's marriage arrived here, he gave a

public entertainment, to which I had the honour of being invited; but

having heard that Commodore Tinker, upon a like occasion, finding that

he was to be placed below the gentlemen of the Dutch council, had

abruptly left the room, and was followed by all the captains of his

squadron; and being willing to avoid the disagreeable dilemma of either

sitting below the council, or following the commodore's example, I

applied to the governor to know the station that would be allotted me

before I accepted his invitation; and finding that I could not be

permitted to take place of the council, I declined it. On both these

occasions I spoke to his excellency by an English merchant, who acted as

an interpreter. The first time he had not the civility to offer me the

least refreshment, nor did he the last time so much as ask me to go into

the house.

The defects of the ship were at length repaired, much to my

satisfaction, and I thought she might then safely proceed to Europe,

though the Dutch carpenters were of a different opinion. The proper

season for sailing was not yet arrived, and my worthy friend, Admiral

Houting, represented, that if I went to sea before the proper time, I

should meet with such weather off the Cape of Good Hope as would make me

repent it; but being very ill myself, and the people being sickly, I

thought it better to run the risk of a few hard gales off the Cape, than

remain longer in this unhealthy place, especially as the west monsoon

was setting in, during which the mortality here is yet greater than at

other times.

On Wednesday the 15th of September, therefore, we set sail from Onrust,

where the ship had been refitted, without returning, as is usual, into

Batavia Road; and as I was not well, I sent my lieutenant to take leave

of the governor on my behalf, and offer my service, if he had any

dispatches for Europe. It was happy for me that I was able to procure a

supply of English seamen here, otherwise I should not at last have been

able to bring the ship home; for I had now lost no less than

four-and-twenty of the hands I had brought out of Europe, and had

four-and-twenty more so ill, that seven of them died in our passage to

the Cape.

On the 20th, we anchored on the south-east side of Prince's Island, in

the Streight of Sunda, and the next morning, I sent out the boats for

wood and water: Of water, however, we could not get a sufficient

quantity to complete our stock, for there had not yet been rain enough

to supply the springs, the wet monsoon having but just set in. At this

time we had the wind so fresh from the south-east, which made this part

of the island a lee-shore, that I could not get under sail till the

25th, when, it being more moderate, we weighed and worked over to the

Java shore. In the evening, we anchored in a bay called by some New Bay,

and by others Canty Bay, which is formed by an island of the same name.

We had fourteen fathoms water, with a fine sandy bottom. The peak of

Prince's Island bore N. 13 W. the westermost point of New Island S. 82

W. and the eastermost point of Java that was in sight, N.E. Our distance

from the Java shore was about a mile and a quarter, and from the

watering-place a mile and a half. New Bay is the best place for wooding

and watering of any in these parts: The water is extremely clear, and so

good that I made my people stave all that we had taken in at Batavia and

Prince's Island, and supply it from this place. It is procured from a

fine strong run on the Java shore, which falls down from the land into

the sea, and by means of a hoase it may be laded into the boats, and the

casks filled without putting them on shore, which renders the work very

easy and expeditious. There is a little reef of rocks within which the

boats go, and lie in as smooth water, and as effectually sheltered from

any swell, as if they were in a mill-pond; nor does the reef run out so

far as to be dangerous to shipping, though the contrary is asserted in

Herbert's Directory; and if a ship, when lying there, should be driven

from her anchors by a wind that blows upon the shore, she may, with the

greatest ease, run up the passage between New Island and Java, where

there is a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessel, and a

harbour, in which, being landlocked, she will find perfect security.

Wood may be had any where either upon Java or New Island, neither of

which, in this part, are inhabited.

Having in a few days completed our wood and water, we weighed and stood

out of the Streight of Sunda, with a fine fresh gale at south-east,

which did not leave us till the island of Java was seven hundred leagues

behind us.

On Monday the 23d of November, we discovered the coast of Africa; at

day-break on the 28th we made the Table Land of the Cape of Good Hope,

and the same evening anchored in the bay. We found here only a Dutch

ship from Europe, and a snow belonging to the place, which however was

in the Company's service, for the inhabitants are not permitted to have

any shipping.

Table Bay is a good harbour in summer, but not in winter; so that the

Dutch will not permit any of their vessels to lie here longer than the

15th of May, which answers to our November. After that time, all ships

go to False Bay, which is well sheltered from the north-west winds,

which blow here with great violence.

At this place we breathed a pure air, had wholesome food, and went

freely about the country, which is extremely pleasant, so that I began

to think myself already in Europe. We found the inhabitants open,

hospitable, and polite, there being scarcely a gentleman in the place,

either in a public or private station, from whom I did not receive some

civility; and I should very ill deserve the favours they bestowed, if I

did not particularly mention the first and second governor, and the

fiscal.

The recovery of my people made it necessary to continue here till the

6th of January, 1769; in the evening of this day I set sail, and before

it was dark cleared the land.

On the 20th, after a fine and pleasant passage, we made the island of St

Helena; and set sail again on the morning of the 24th. At midnight on

the 30th, we made the northeast part of the Island of Ascension, and

brought-to till daylight, when we ran in close to it. I sent a boat out

to discover the anchoring-place, which is called Cross-hill bay, while

we kept running along the north-east and north side of the island, till

we came to the north-west extremity of it, and in the afternoon anchored

in the bay we sought. The way to find this place at once, is to bring

the largest and most conspicuous hill upon the island to bear S.E.; when

the ship is in this position, the bay will be open, right in the middle,

between two other hills, the westermost of which is called Cross-hill,

and gives name to the bay. Upon this hill there is a flag-staff, which

if a ship brings to bear S.S.E. 1/2 E. or S.E. by E. and runs in,

keeping it so till she is in ten fathom water, she will be in the best

part of the bay. In our run along the north-east side of the island, I

observed several other small sandy bays, in some of which my boat found

good anchorage, and saw plenty of turtle, though they are not so

convenient as this, where we had plenty of turtle too. The beach here is

a fine white sand; the landing-place is at some rocks, which lie about

the middle of the bay, and may be known by a ladder of ropes which hangs

from the top to mount them by. In the evening I landed a few men to turn

the turtle that should come on shore during the night, and in the

morning I found that they had thus secured no less than eighteen, from

four hundred to six hundred weight each, and these were as many as we

could well stow on the deck. As there are no inhabitants upon this

island, it is a custom for the ships that touch at it to leave a letter

in a bottle, with their names and destination, the date, and a few other

particulars. We complied with this custom, and in the evening of Monday

the 1st of February, we weighed anchor and set sail.

On Friday the 19th, we discovered a ship at a considerable distance to

leeward in the south-west quarter, which hoisted French colours; she

continued in sight all day, and the next morning we perceived that she

had greatly outsailed us during the night; she made a tack, however, in

order to get farther to windward, and as it is not usual for ships to

turn to windward in these parts, it was evident that she had tacked in

order to speak with us. By noon she was near enough to hail us, and, to

my great surprise, made use both of my name and that of the ship,

enquiring after my health, and telling me, that after the return of the

Dolphin to Europe, it was believed we had suffered shipwreck in the

Streight of Magellan, and that two ships had been sent out in quest of

us. I asked, in my turn, who it was that was so well acquainted with me

and my ship, and with the opinions that had been formed of us in Europe

after the return of our companion, and how this knowledge had been

acquired. I was answered, that the ship which hailed us was in the

service of the French East India Company, commanded by M. Bougainville;

that she was returning to England from the Isle of France; that what was

thought of the Swallow in England, had been learnt from the French

Gazette at the Cape of Good Hope; and that we were known to be that

vessel by the letter which had been found in the bottle at the Island of

Ascension, a few days after we had left that place. An offer was then

made of supplying me with refreshments, if I wanted any, and I was asked

if I had any letters to send to France. I returned thanks for the offer

of refreshments, which however was a mere verbal civility, as it was

known that I had lately sailed from the places where M. Bougainville

himself had been supplied; but I said that I had received letters for

France from some gentlemen of that country at the Cape, and if he would

send his boat on board, they should be delivered to his messenger. Thus

was an occasion furnished for what I have reason to believe was the

principal object of M. Bougainville in speaking with us: A boat was

immediately sent on board, and in her a young officer, dressed in a

waistcoat and trowsers; whether he was thus dressed by design I shall

not determine, but I soon perceived that his rank was much superior to

his appearance. He came down to me in my cabin, and after the usual

compliments had passed, I asked him how he came to go home so soon in

the season; to which he replied, that there had been some disagreement

between the governor and inhabitants of the Isle of France, and that he

had been sent home in haste with dispatches: This story was the more

plausible, as I had heard of the dispute between the governor and

inhabitants of the Isle of France, from a French gentleman who came from

thence, at the Cape of Good Hope; yet I was not perfectly satisfied:

For, supposing M. Bougainville to have been sent in haste to Europe with

dispatches, I could not account for his losing the time which it cost

him to speak with me; I therefore observed to this gentleman, that

although he had accounted for his coming before the usual time from the

Isle of France, he had not accounted for his coming at an unusual time

from India, which must have been the case. To this, however, he readily

replied, that they had made only a short trading voyage on the western

coast of Sumatra. I then enquired, what commodities he had brought from

thence; and he answered, cocoa-nut oil, and rattans: But, said I, these

are commodities which it is not usual to bring into Europe: It is true,

said he, but these commodities we left at the Isle of France, the oil

for the use of the island, and the rattans for ships which were to touch

there in their way to China, and in exchange we took in another freight

for Europe; this freight I think he said was pepper, and his whole tale

being at least possible, I asked him no more questions. He then told me,

he had heard at the Cape, that I had been with Commodore Byron at

Falkland's Islands; and, said he, I was on board the French ship that

met you in the Streight of Magellan, which must have been true, for he

mentioned several incidents that it was otherwise highly improbable he

should know, particularly the store-ship's running a-ground, and many of

the difficulties that occurred in that part of the Streight which we

passed together: By this conversation he contrived to introduce several

enquiries, concerning the western part of the Streight, the time it cost

me to get through, and the difficulties of the navigation; but

perceiving that I declined giving any account of these particulars, he

changed his subject. He said, he had heard that we lost an officer and

some men in an engagement with the Indians; and taking notice that my

ship was small, and a bad sailer, he insinuated that we must have

suffered great hardship in so long a voyage; but, said he, it is thought

to be safer and pleasanter sailing in the South Sea than any where else.

As I perceived that he waited for a reply, I said, that the great ocean,

called the South Sea, extended almost from one pole to the other; and

therefore, although that part of it which lay between the tropics might

justly be called the Pacific, on account of the trade-winds that blow

there all the year, yet without the tropics, on either side, the winds

were variable, and the seas turbulent. In all this he readily

acquiesced, and finding that he could not draw from me any thing to

satisfy his curiosity, by starting leading subjects of conversation, he

began to propose his questions in direct terms, and desired to know on

which side the equator I had crossed the South Seas. As I did not think

proper to answer this question, and wished to prevent others of the same

kind, I rose up somewhat abruptly, and I believe with some marks of

displeasure: At this he seemed to be a little disconcerted, and I

believe was about to make an apology for his curiosity, but I prevented

him, by desiring that he would make my compliments to his captain, and

in return for his obliging civilities presented him with one of the

arrows that had wounded my men, which I immediately went into my

bed-room to fetch: He followed me, looking about him with great

curiosity, as indeed he had done from the time of his first coming on

board, and having received the arrow, he took his leave.

After he was gone, and we had made sail, I went upon the deck, where my

lieutenant asked me, if my visitor had entertained me with an account of

his voyage. This led me to tell him the general purport of our

conversation, upon which he assured me that the tale I had heard was a

fiction, for, says he, the boat's crew could not keep their secret so

well as their officer, but after a little conversation told one of our

people who was born at Quebec, and spoke French, that they had been

round the globe as well as we. This naturally excited a general

curiosity, and with a very little difficulty we learnt that they had

sailed from Europe in company with another ship, which, wanting some

repair, had been left at the Isle of France; that they had attempted to

pass the Streight of Magellan the first summer, but not being able, had

gone back, and wintered in the river de la Plata; that the summer

afterwards they had been more successful, and having passed the

Streight, spent two months at the island of Juan Fernandes. My

lieutenant told me also, that a boy in the French boat said he had been

upon that island two years, and that while he was there, an English

frigate put into the road, but did not anchor, mentioning the time as

well as he could recollect, by which it appeared that the frigate he had

seen was the Swallow. On the boy's being asked how he came to be so long

upon the island of Juan Fernandes, he said that he had been taken upon

the Spanish coast in the West Indies in a smuggling party, and sent

thither by the Spaniards; but that by the French ship, in whose boat he

came on board us, having touched there, he had regained his liberty.

After having received this information from my lieutenant, I could

easily account for M. Bougainville's having made a tack to speak to me,

and for the conversation and behaviour of my visitor; but I was now more

displeased at the questions he had asked me than before, for if it was

improper for him to communicate an account of his voyage to me, it was

equally improper for me to communicate an account of my voyage to him:

And I thought an attempt to draw me into a breach of my obligation to

secrecy, while he imposed upon me by a fiction that he might not violate

his own, was neither liberal nor just. As what the boat's crew told my

people, differs in several particulars from the account printed by M.

Bougainville, I shall not pretend to determine how much of it is true;

but I was then very sorry that the lieutenant had not communicated to me

the intelligence he received, such as it was, before my guest left me,

and I was now very desirous to speak with him again, but this was

impossible; for though the French ship was foul from a long voyage, and

we had just been cleaned, she shot by us as if we had been at anchor,

notwithstanding we had a fine fresh gale, and all our sails set.[61]

[Footnote 61: Bougainville passes over the circumstance of meeting with

the Swallow in a very cursory manner: "The 28th we perceived a ship to

windward, and a-head of us; we kept sight of her during the night, and

joined her the next morning; it was the Swallow. I offered Capt. C. all

the services that one may render to another at sea. He wanted nothing;

but upon his telling me that they had given him letters for France at

the Cape, I sent on board for them. He presented me with an arrow which

he had got in one of the isles he had found in his voyage round the

world, _a voyage that he was far from suspecting we had likewise made_.

His ship was very small, went very ill, and when we took leave of him,

he remained as it were at anchor. How much he must have suffered in so

bad a vessel, may well be conceived. There were eight leagues difference

between his estimated longitude and ours; he reckoned himself so much

more to the westward." A little before, he had spoken of his wishing to

join Carteret, over whom he knew he had great advantage in sailing. This

was in leaving the Cape of Good Hope, at which time Carteret was eleven

days gone before him.--E.]

On the 7th of March we made the Western Islands, and went between St

Michael and Tercera; in this situation we found the variation 13°36'W.,

and the winds began to blow from the S.W. The gale, as we got farther to

the westward, increased, and on the 11th, having got to W.N.W. it blew

very hard, with a great sea; we scudded before it with the foresail

only, the foot-rope of which suddenly breaking, the sail blew all to

pieces, before we could get the yard down, though it was done instantly.

This obliged us to bring the ship to, but having, with all possible

expedition, bent a new foresail, and got the yard up, we bore away

again; this was the last accident that happened to us during the voyage.

On the 16th, being in latitude 49° 15' N. we got soundings. On the 18th,

I knew by the depth of water that we were in the Channel, but the wind

being to the northward, we could not make land till the next day, when

we saw the Star Point; and on the 20th, to our great joy, we anchored at

Spithead, after a very fine passage, and a fair wind all the way from

the Cape of Good Hope.

_A Table of the Variation of the Compass, as observed on board the

Swallow, in her Voyage round the Globe, in the Years_ 1766, 1767, 1768,

_and_ 1769.

N.B. The days of the month in this Table are not by the nautical

account, as is the custom, but, for the convenience of those that are

not used to that way of reckoning, are reduced to the civil account.

A.M. denotes that the observation was made in the forenoon, and P.M. in

the afternoon of that day on the noon of which the latitude and

longitude of the ship were taken.

TIME. Lat. in Long. in Variation. REMARKS.

at Noon at Noon

from

_________________________________________________________________

North. West. West.

1766,August. English Channel 22°30' }

30, P.M. 45°22 18°17' 20 25 }From the Downs to

Sept. 3,P.M. 38 36 13 40 19 04 } of Madeira.

4,A.M. 37 27 14 12 20 17 }

Island Madeira. 32 34 16 35 16 00

17,A.M. 24 33 19 22 13 00

21,A.M. 17 19 22 19 11 14 }The island of Sall

}in sight, S.

}by W. ten leagues

22,P.M, 16 34 22 29 8 20 }Was then between the

}island of Sall

}and the island of May.

Porto Praya 15 00 23 00 8 00 }Island of St. Jago.

Oct. 10,P.M. 6 34 21 41 5 36 }

11,P.M. 6 40 21 35 6 00 }

South. }

22,A.M. 0 06 25 03 6 23 }On the passage from

}the island

25,A.M. 4 14 27 23 4 30 }of St Jago to the

27,A.M 7 03 28 49 3 52 }Streights

28,A.M. 8 46 29 14 1 50 }of Magellan.

30,P.M. 10 57 30 09 0 30 }

31,A.M. 12 30 30 30 Novar }

East.

Oct.31,P.M. 12 56 30 46 1 24 }

Nov. 2,P.M. 17 22 32 09 1 40 }

7,A.M. 23 54 38 10 4 56 }

P.M. - - - - 5 56 }

8,P.M. 25 49 39 21 6 45 } Coast of Patagonia.

11,A.M. 29 57 42 27 8 50 }

15,A.M. 34 12 46 41 12 00 }

16,A.M. 34 38 47 58 12 36 }

17,A.M. 34 46 48 28 13 03 }

P.M. - - - - 14 20 }

Nov.18, AM 35° 37' 49° 49' 30' }Soundings 54 fathoms of

}water,with a bottom of fine

}black sand, rather muddy.

PM. 15 45 }Ditto depth and bottom.

20, PM. 36 57 51 48 15 33 }Ditto depth, find sand, but

}not so black, with small

}shells.

21, AM. 37 40 51 05 15 52 }Had no bottom with 80 fathoms

}of line.

38 53 53 12 }Had soundings a 70 fathoms

}water.

40 34 53 47 }No bottom with 90 fathoms of

}line.

41 34 55 39 }45 fathoms, dark brown sandy

}bottom.

41 57 56 06 }42 fathoms, fine grey sand.

41 06 57 18 }46 fathoms, fine dark brown

}sand.

28, AM. 41 14 56 48 19 00 }39 fathoms ditto bottom. Here

}we caught very good fish

}with hooks and lines.

29, AM. 42 08 58 41 19 02 }32 fathoms of water, with

}ditto bottom.

PM. 19 45 }33 fathoms depth.

43 18 58 56 }Depth 45 fathoms, the same

}bottom; we had here a calm,

}and we caught good fish.

44 04 58 53 }52 fathoms water, the same

}bottom.

45 00 59 34 }58 fathoms, fine light brown

}sand.

Dec, 4, PM. 47 00 60 51 20 20

47 15 61 10 }60 fathoms, fine dark sand.

5, AM. 48 01 61 28 }56 fathoms, with ditto

}bottom,and grains of

}sparkling sand mixed with it.

6, AM. 47 35 62 50 20 34

47 30 63 08 }45 fathoms of water, dark

}sand,with small stones, and

47 30 63 08 }in going west about 10 miles

}we had 52 fathoms, a bottom

}of soft mud

7, AM. 47 14 63 37 }54 fathoms, soft mud, with

}small stones; at this time

}the land was seen from the

}mastheads, somewhere about

}Cape Blanco.

8, PM. 48 54 64 14 20 30

9, AM. 49 12 65 31 20 35

1766.

Dec. 9, A.M. 50° 15' 66°02' - - }53 fathoms. dark grey sand,

}with small stones.

17, Cape Virgin Mary, eastermost entrance of the Streight

Magellan - 52 23 68 02 22 50

Elizabeth Island 22 36

Port Famine 22 22

Off C. Forward 22 10

York Road Ditto }In the Streights

Swallow Har. }of Magellan.

Off C. Notch. 22 00

1767, Off C. Upr.

Off C. Pillar 52 45 75 10 21 50 }Westernmost entrance of

}the Streights.

April 18, P.M. 49 18 79 06 17 36

20, A.M. 48 04 80 56 17 20 }Coast of Chili, in the

}South Sea.

26, P.M. 45 57 81 22 16 17

28, P.M. 44 27 81 24 15 10

33 40 78 52 11 00 }end of the island

May }Juan Fernandes.

33 45 80 46 10 24 }Island of Massafuero.

28, P.M. 29 45 79 50 9 40 }

31, P.M. 26 26 82 15 8 10 }

June 1, P.M. 25 51 84 23 8 8 }

7, P.M. 27 23 97 16 5 45 }

8. A.M. 27 20 97 51 5 45 }

10. A.M. 26 30 98 25 5 40 }

12, P.M. 26 53 100 21 4 13 }In Crossing the South Sea

16, P.M. 28 11 111 15 2 00 }

17, A.M. 28 04 112 37 1 51 }

18. P.M. 28 07 113 55 2 00 }

20. A.M. 28 04 116 29 2 09 }

30. P.M. 26 00 130 55 2 32 }

July 2. P.M. 25 02 133 38 2 46 }Off Pitcairn's Island.

3, 25 00 136 16 2 30 }

4, A.M. 25 24 137 18 3 43 }

5, A.M. 24 56 137 23 5 24 }

6. A.M. 24 32 138 31 4 16 }

7, A.M. 24 10 139 55 5 12 }

P.M. 4 02 }

8. A.M. 23 46 139 55 5 56 }

10, P.M. 21 38 141 36 4 20 }

12, A.M. 20 36 145 39 4 40 }Crossing the South Sea.

20,38 146 00 5 00 }

13, P.M. 21 07 147 44 5 46 }

15, A.M. 21 46 150 50 6 23 }

16, P.M. 22 02 151 09 6 34 }

19, P.M. 19 50 153 59 6 08 }

20, P.M. 19 08 156 15 7 09 }

21, P.M. 18 43 158 27 7 38 }

1767. South. West. East.

July 23, P.M. 16°22' 162 32' 6 05' }

24, P.M. 14 19 163 34 6 29 }

25, A.M. 12 13 164 50 9 30 }

P.M. - - - 9 40 }

26, A.M. 10 01 166 52 9 00 }

28, A.M. 9 50 171 26 9 04 }

30, A.M. 9 50 175 38 9 32 }

P.M. - - - 9 00 } Crossing the South Sea.

Aug. 1, A.M. 9 53 179 33 10 04 }

East. }

2, A.M. 10 09 178 58 10 30 }

4, A.M. 10 22 177 10 10 54 }

5, A.M. 10 35 175 50 11 14 }

P.M. - - - - 10 52 }

7, P.M. 10 52 172 23 11 17 }

8, P.M. 11 02 171 15 10 27

9, A.M. 10 56 171 00 10 02

11, P.M. 10 49 167 00 10 38

Cape Byron - 10 40 164 49 11 00 }N.E. end of Egmont, one of

}the Charlotte Islands.

18, P.M. 9 58 162 57 8 30

19, P.M. 8 52 160 41 8 30

20, A.M. 7 53 158 56 8 31

7 56 158 56 8 20 }Off Carterets's and

}Gowers's Isl.

22, P.M. 6 24 157 32 7 42

24, P.M. 5 07 155 08 6 25

26, P.M. 4 46 153 17 7 14

In sight and on the west side of } 6 30

Nova Britannia. }

C.Saint George. 5 00 152 19 5 20 }Nova Hibernia.

In St George's Channel 4 40 }Nova Britannia

}here the land

}seemed to have an

}effect on the needle.

Sept. 16, A.M. 2 19 145 31 6 30 }Off the Admiralty Islands.

19, A.M. 1 57 143 28 5 26 }

1 45 143 02 4 40 }

20, P.M. 1 33 142 22 4 40 }

21, A.M. 1 20 141 29 4 54 }

22, P.M. 0 52 139 56 4 30 }

23, P.M. 0 05 138 56 4 17 }

North. - - }From the Admiralty Islands

24, P.M. 0 05 138 41 3 09 }to the island of Mindanao.

27, A.M. 2 13 136 41 2 30 }

P.M. - - - - 2 09 }

2 50 136 17 2 00 }

30, A.M. 4 25 134 37 1 41 }

Oct. 3, A.M. 4 41 132 51 3 09 }

P.M. - - 3 14 }

5, P.M. 4 31 132 39 3 10 }

1767. North. West. West.

Oct. 6, A.M. 4°21' 132°45' 3°33 }

8, A.M. 3 53 134 13 3 38 }

9, A.M. 4 03 134 04 3 11 }

12, P.M. 4 49 133 42 2 19 }From the Admiralty Islands

13, P.M. 5 12 133 27 2 20 }to the island of Mindanao.

16, A.M. 5 54 133 10 2 34 }

27, P.M. 6 35 127 56 2 10 }

Caps St Aug. 6 15 127 20 1 45 }Island of Mindanao.

South End 5 34 126 25 1 20 }Off the island Mindanao.

Nov. 6, A.M. 5 34 125 40 0 48 }

P.M. - - - - 0 49 }

7, P.M. 5 37 125 23 0 39 }

8, P.M. 5 30 124 41 0 50 }

14, A.M. 1 57 122 04 0 06 }From the island of Mindanao

26, P.M. 0 04 118 15 0 19 }to the Streights of

South. }Macassar.

27, A.M. 0 14 117 45 0 12 }

Dec. 7. 3 26 116 45 0 27 }

Bonthain 5 30 117 53 1 16 }At the Island of Celebes.

Island Tonikaky 5 31 117 17 1 00 }Off the S.E. end of the

1768. }Island Celebes.

May 29, P.M. 5 29 110 23 0 56

Off Madura - 0 30 }On the N.E. part of the

Batavia - - 0 25 }island of Java.

Sept.30,P.M. 7 41 101 36 0 51 }

Oct. 2, P.M. 10 37 97 19 2 06 }

4, P.M. 12 13 93 56 3 12 }

12, P.M. 19 50 76 40 3 30 }

14, P.M. 21 47 72 47 6 26 }

15, P.M. 22 53 70 47 8 09 }

17, A.M. 24 23 68 02 9 36 }

P.M. - - 11 20 }

18, P.M. 25 08 67 21 11 50 }

19, P.M. 25 08 67 08 12 49 }

20, A.M. 24 59 66 35 12 54 }

P.M. - - - - 11 48 }

24, A.M. 23 21 64 31 12 54 }From the Streights of Sunda

25, P.M. 23 23 63 35 12 39 }to the Cape of Good Hope.

26, A.M. 23 32 62 43 13 42 }

28, P.M. 24 52 60 14 16 10 }

30, P.M. 25 40 56 50 18 18 }

31, P.M. 26 31 54 49 18 24 }

Nov. 1, A.M. 27 05 52 57 20 12 }

P.M. - - - - 20 20 }

3, A.M. 27 40 50 55 20 58 }

P.M. - - - - 21 23 }

4, P.M. 27 42 50 10 21 15 }

5, P.M. 27 44 49 01 21 09 }

6, P.M. 28 58 46 23 22 38 }

1768. South. East. West.

Nov. 7, A.M. 29°59' 43'55 24°40 }

P.M. - - - - 24 55 }

8, P.M. 30 12 42 51 25 39 }

9, A.M. 30 19 41 97 25 50 }

10, P.M. 30 37 40 48 25 32 }

11, A.M. 32 02 38 47 25 08 }

12, P.M. 32 39 37 17 25 02 }From the Streights of Sunda

13, P.M. 33 21 35 27 25 05 }toThe Cape of Good Hope.

19, P.M. 35 17 28 38 22 32 }

20, P.M. 35 42 27 22 22 46 }

21, P.M. 35 46 27 00 22 18 }

22, P.M. 35 04 26 29 22 50 }

23, P.M. 34 57 25 46 21 39 }

24, P.M. 34 52 25 28 21 44 }

C. Good Hope. 34 24 18 30 19 40 }

1769.

Jan. 9, P.M. 30 37 13 08 19 20 }

14, P.M. 22 16 4 52 16 19 }

15, P.M. 21 04 3 54 16 81 }From the Cape to the island

18, P.M. 17 05 0 10 14 38 }of Saint Helena.

West. }

19, P.M. 16 06 1 38 13 46 }

25, P.M. 14 22 7 04 12 30 }From the island of Saint

26, P.M. 12 54 8 05 11 47 }Helena to the island of

27, P.M. 11 36 9 25 11 40 }Ascension.

28, P.M. 10 26 10 36 10 46 }

Feb. 2, P.M. 6 45 14 42 9 34 }

3, P.M. 5 04 15 45 9 04 }

4, A.M. 3 26 16 49 9 10 }

5, P.M. 2 01 17 34 8 58 }

6, P.M. 0 20 18 27 8 32 }

North. }

7, P.M. 0 58 19 24 8 37 }

8, A.M. 1 56 20 16 8 25 }

10, P.M. 2 39 28 58 7 21 }

15, P.M. 6 38 32 40 4 35 }From the island of

16, P M. 8 03 24 18 6 09 }Ascension to England.

19, P.M. 12 06 24 34 6 48 }

21, P.M. 14 39 27 15 6 12 }

26, A.M. 23 54 28 15 6 00 }

March 3,P.M. 32 33 23 35 13 26 }

4,A.M. 34 02 22 32 13 43 }

5,P.M. 35.30 21 56 14 53 }

6,A.M. 36 46 21 23 15 15 }

P.M. - - - - 14 58 }

etween the islands of Tercera } 13 36 }

and Saint Michael.

1769. North. West. West.

Mar. 28. P.M. 39°09' 19° 02' 16° 46' From this day till my arrival

in England, the weather was

so bad that we had no

opportunity of making any

observation of the variation.

N.B. The ill sailing of the Swallow prevented me from getting a sufficient

number of soundings to make a separate Table.

CHAPTER IV.

AN ACCOUNT OF A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, IN THE YEARS 1768, 1769, 1770,

AND 1771, BY LIEUTENANT JAMES COOK, COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY'S BARK THE

ENDEAVOUR.

[In addition to Cook's papers, Dr Hawkesworth had the use of a journal

kept by Sir Joseph Banks, in drawing up the account of this voyage; a

favour which he has not neglected to specify in his introduction. That

introduction, however, and several references to plates, with some other

matters deemed of little or no import, or elsewhere given, are now

omitted.]

SECTION I.

_The Passage from Plymouth to Madeira, with tome Account of that

Island._

Having received my commission, which was dated the 25th of May 1768, I

went on board on the 27th, hoisted the pennant, and took charge, of the

ship, which then lay in the bason in Deptford yard. She was fitted for

sea with all expedition; and stores and provisions being taken on board,

sailed down the river on the 30th of July, and on the 13th of August

anchored in Plymouth Sound.

While we lay here waiting for a wind, the articles of war and the act of

parliament were read to the ship's company, who were paid two months'

wages in advance, and told that they were to expect no additional pay

for the performance of the voyage.

On Friday the 26th of August, the wind becoming fair, we got under sail,

and put to sea. On the 31st, we saw several of the birds which the

sailors call Mother Carey's Chickens, and which they suppose to be the

forerunners of a storm; and on the next day we had a very hard gale,

which brought us under our courses, washed overboard a small boat

belonging to the boatswain, and drowned three or four dozen of our

poultry, which we regretted still more.

On Friday the 2d of September we saw land between Cape Finisterre and

Cape Ortegal, on the coast of Gallicia, in Spain; and on the 5th, by an

observation of the sun and moon, we found the latitude of Cape

Finisterre to be 42° 53' north, and its longitude 8° 46' west, our first

meridian being always supposed to pass through Greenwich; variation of

the needle 21° 4' west.