_The Passage from Batavia to the Cape of Good Hope, and from thence to
England_.
We continued our course, without any event worthy of notice, (except
that one of my best men unhappily fell overboard and was drowned,) till
Monday the 10th of February, when, at six o'clock in the morning, we saw
the coast of Africa, bearing from N.N.W. to N.E. distant about seven
leagues: It made in several high hills, and white sandy cliffs, and its
latitude was 34° 15' S. longitude 21° 45' E.; the variation here was 22°
W. and our depth of water fifty-three fathom, with a bottom of coarse
brown sand.
I stood in for the land, and when I was within about two leagues of it,
I saw a great smoke rising from a sandy beach. I imagined the smoke to
be made by the Hottentots; yet I was astonished at their chusing this
part of the coast for their residence, for it consisted of nothing but
sand-banks as far as we could see, without the least bush or a single
blade of verdure, and so heavy a sea broke upon the coast, that it was
impossible to catch any fish.
On Wednesday the 12th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, we were
abreast of Cape Lagullas, from which the coast lies W.N.W. to the Cape
of Good Hope, which is distant about thirty leagues. The next day we
passed between Penguin Island and Green Point, and worked into Table Bay
with our top-sails close reefed, there being a strong gale, with hard
squalls, at S.S.E. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we anchored, and
saluted the fort, which was returned. The Dutch told me, that none of
their ships could have worked in such a gale of wind, and that we seemed
to come in faster than they were generally able to do when the wind was
fair.
The next morning, I waited upon the governor, who had sent his coach
and six to the water-side for me. He was an old man, but a favourite
with all ranks of people: He received me with the greatest politeness,
and not only offered me the company s house in the garden for my
residence while I should continue at the Cape, but his coach whenever I
should think fit to use it. As I was one day at dinner with him, and
some other gentlemen, I took occasion to mention the smoke that I had
seen upon one of the sandy beaches on a desolate part of the coast, and
the surprise with which it had struck me: They then told me that another
ship, some time before, had fallen in with that part of the coast, and
had seen large smokes as I had done, although the place was uninhabited,
and supposed to be an island: To account for the smokes, however, they
told me also, that two Dutch East Indiamen had, about two years before,
sailed from Batavia for the Cape, and had never afterwards been heard
of; and it was supposed that one or both of them had been shipwrecked
there, and that the smokes which had been seen were made by some of the
unfortunate crew: They added, that they had more than once sent out
vessels to look for them, but that there broke so dreadful a sea upon
the coast, they were obliged to return without attempting to go on
shore. When I heard this melancholy account, I could only regret that I
had not known it before, for I would then certainly have made every
effort in my power to have found these unhappy wretches, and taken them
from a place where, in all probability, they would miserably perish.
The cape is certainly a most excellent place for ships to touch at; it
is a healthy climate, a fine country, and abounds with refreshments of
every kind. The company's garden is a delightful spot, and at the end of
it there is a paddock belonging to the governor, in which are kept a
great number of rare and curious animals, and among others, when I was
there, there were three fine ostriches, and four zebras of an uncommon
size. I gave all the people leave to go on shore by turns, and they
always contrived to get very drunk with cape wine before they came back.
Many ships came in while we lay here; some were Dutch, some French, some
Danes, but all were outward-bound.
Having continued here three weeks, and during that time refreshed our
men, and completed our water, I took leave of the good old governor on
the 6th of March, and on the 7th, sailed out of the bay, with a fine
breeze at S.E.
On Sunday the 16th, at six in the morning, we saw the island of St
Helena, bearing W. by N. at the distance of about sixteen leagues, and
about noon, a large ship, which shewed French colours. We pursued our
course, and a few days afterwards, as we were sailing with a fine gale,
and at a great distance from land, the ship suddenly received a rude
shock, as if she had struck the ground: This instantly brought all who
were below upon the deck in great consternation, and upon looking out we
saw the water to a very large extent, tinged with blood; this put an end
to our fears, and we concluded that we must have struck either a whale
or a grampus, from which the ship was not likely to receive much damage,
nor in fact did she receive any. About this time also we had the
misfortune to bury our carpenter's mate, a very ingenious and diligent
young man, who had never been well after our leaving Batavia.[47]
[Footnote 47: "By the tenderness and care of the Honourable Mr Byron,
our excellent commodore, in causing the crews to be served with portable
soup, and with the greatest humanity distributing provisions to the sick
from his own table, that dreadful disease the sea-scurvy was rendered
less inveterate and fatal, and we lost a less number of men, than any
other ship in such a voyage: For, to the honour of that humane
commander, let it be known to posterity, that under him the Dolphin and
Tamar encompassed the earth, and in so long a voyage through various
seas and climates, and after sailing several thousand leagues under the
torrid zone, lost six men only out of each ship, including those that
were drowned: A number so inconsiderable, that it is highly probable
more of them would have died had they staid on shore."]
On the 25th, we crossed the equator, in longitude 17° 10' W. and the
next morning, Captain Cumming came on board, and informed me that the
Tamer's three lower rudder-braces on the stem were broken off, which
rendered the rudder unserviceable. I immediately sent the carpenter on
board, who found the condition of the braces even worse than had been
reported, so that the rudder could not possibly be new hung; he
therefore went to work upon a machine, like that which had been fixed to
the Ipswich, and by which she was steered home: This machine in about
five days he completed, and with some little alterations of his own, it
was an excellent piece of work. The Tamar steered very well with it, but
thinking that it might not be sufficient to secure her in bad weather,
or upon a lee-shore, I ordered Captain Cumming to run down to Antigua,
that he might there heave the ship down, and get the rudder new hung,
with a fresh set of braces which he had with him for that purpose; for
the braces with which the ship went out, being of iron, were not
expected to last as long as ours, the lower ones, with the sheathing,
being of copper.
Pursuant to these orders, the Tamar parted company with us on the 1st of
April, and steered for the Caribbee Islands. When we came into latitude
34° N. longitude 35° W. we had strong gales from W.S.W to W.N.W. with a
great sea, which broke over us continually for six days successively,
and run us into latitude 48° N. longitude 14°, W. On the 7th of May, at
seven o'clock in the morning, we made the islands of Scilly, having been
just nine weeks coming from the Cape of Good Hope, and somewhat more
than two-and-twenty months upon the voyage; the 9th, the ship came to
anchor in the Downs, and on the same day I landed at Deal, and set out
for London.
* * * * *
[The reader will find a short but interesting memoir of Byron prefixed,
for the first time, to the Narrative of the Shipwreck of the Wager,
published at Edinburgh by Ballantyne, 1812. All that it is thought
necessary to quote from it here is, that in 1769, about three years
after his return from this circumnavigation, he was appointed governor
of Newfoundland, which office he held till 1775; that then he was
promoted to the rank of rear-admiral of the blue, and successively to
that of rear-admiral of the white and red; that he was appointed to
command the squadron directed to watch and oppose the French fleet under
Count d'Estaign, over which, however, owing to circumstances no prudence
or bravery could control, he obtained no decisive advantages; that in
1779, he was promoted to the rank of vice-admiral of the white; and that
he died in 1786, at the age of 73, generally respected and beloved for
his eminent professional and moral qualities.--E.]
CHAPTER II.
AN ACCOUNT or A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, IN THE YEARS 1766, 1767, AND
1768, BY SAMUEL WALLIS, ESQ. COMMANDER OF HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE
DOLPHIN.
SECTION II.
_The Passage to the Coast of Patagonia, with some Account of the
Natives._
[The longitude in this voyage is reckoned from the meridian of London.]
Having received my commission, which was dated the 19th of June 1766, I
went on board the same day, hoisted the pendant, and began to enter
seamen, but, according to my orders, took no boys either for myself or
any of the officers.
The ship was fitted for the sea with all possible expedition, during
which the articles of war and the act of parliament were read to the
ship's company: On the 26th of July we sailed down the river, and on the
16th of August, at eight o'clock in the morning, anchored in Plymouth
Sound.
On the 19th I received my sailing orders, with directions to take the
Swallow sloop, and the Prince Frederick store-ship, under my command:
And this day I took on board, among other things, three thousand weight
of portable soup, and a bale of cork jackets. Every part of the ship was
filled with stores and necessaries of various kinds, even to the
steerage and state-room, which were allotted to the slops and portable
soup. The surgeon offered to purchase an extraordinary quantity of
medicines, and medical necessaries, which, as the ship's company might
become sickly, he said would in that case be of great service, if room
could be found to stow them in; I therefore gave him leave to put them
into my cabin, the only place in the ship where they could be received,
as they consisted of three large boxes.
On the 22d, at four o'clock in the morning, I weighed and made sail in
company with the Swallow and Prince Frederick, and had soon the
mortification to find that the Swallow was a very bad sailer.
We proceeded in our voyage, without any remarkable incident, till
Sunday the 7th of September, when, about eight o'clock in the morning,
we saw the island of Porto Santo, bearing west; and about noon, saw the
east end of the island of Madeira.
About five o'clock we ran between this end of the island and the
Deserters. On the side next the Deserters is a low flat island, and near
it a needle rock; the side next to Madeira is full of broken rocks, and
for that reason it is not safe to come within less than two miles of it.
At six in the evening we anchored in Madeira road, about two-thirds of a
mile from the shore, in twenty-four fathom, with a muddy bottom: About
eight the Swallow and Prince Frederick also came to an anchor; and I
sent an officer on shore to the governor, to let him know that I would
salute him, if he would return an equal number of guns, which he
promised to do; the next morning, therefore, at six o'clock, I saluted
him with thirteen guns, and he returned thirteen as he had promised.
Having taken in a proper quantity of water at this place, with four
pipes and ten puncheons of wine, some fresh beef, and a large quantity
of onions, we weighed anchor on the 12th, and continued our voyage.
At six-o'clock in the morning of Tuesday the 16th, we saw the island of
Palma, and found the ship fifteen miles to the southward of her
reckoning. As we were sailing along this island, at the rate of no less
than eight miles an hour, with the wind at east, it died away at once;
so that within less than two minutes the ship had no motion, though we
were at least four leagues distant from the shore. Palma lies in lat.
28° 40' N. long. 17° 48' W.
On the 20th we tried the current, and found it set S.W. by W. one mile
an hour. This day we saw two herons flying to the eastward, and a great
number of bonnettos about the ship, of which we caught eight.
In the night between the 21st and 22d we lost our companion the
Swallow, and about eight in the morning we saw the island of Sal,
bearing S. 1/2 W., at noon it bore S. 1/4 W. distant eight leagues; and
at noon on the 23d, the nearest land of the island of Bonavista here
from S. to W.S.W. distant seven or eight miles, the east end, at the
same time, bearing W. distant two leagues. In this situation we sounded,
and had only fifteen fathom, with rocky ground; at the same time we saw
a very great rippling, which we supposed to be caused by a reef,
stretching off the point about E.S.E. three miles, and the breakers
without us, distant also about three miles in the direction of S.E. We
steered between the rippling and the breakers, but after hauling the
ship off about half a mile, we had no soundings. The Prince Frederick
passed very near the breakers, in the S.E., but had no soundings; yet
these breakers are supposed to be dangerous. The middle of the isle of
Sal is in lat. 16° 55' N. long. 21° 59' W.; the middle of Bonavista is
in lat. 16° 10' long. 23° W.
On the next day, at six in the morning, the isle of May bore from W. to
S.W. six leagues; and soon after the Swallow again joined company. At
half an hour after ten the west end of the isle of May bore north at the
distance of five miles, and we found a current here, setting to the
southward at the rate of twenty miles in four-and-twenty hours. The
latitude of this island is 15° 10' N. longitude 22° 25' W.
At noon the south end of the island of St Iago bore S.W. by W. distant
four leagues; and the north end N.W. distant five leagues. At half an
hour after three we anchored in Port Praya, in that island, in company
with the Swallow and Prince Frederick, in eight fathom water, upon sandy
ground. We had much rain and lightning in the night, and early in the
morning I sent to the commanding officer at the fort, for leave to get
off some water, and other refreshments, which he granted.
We soon learnt that this was the sickly season, and that the rains were
so great as to render it extremely difficult to get any thing down from
the country to the ships: It happened also, unfortunately, that the
small-pox, which is extremely fatal here, was at this time epidemic; so
that I permitted no man to go ashore who had not had that distemper, and
I would not suffer even those that had to go into any house.
We procured, however, a supply of water and some cattle from the shore,
and caught abundance of fish with the seine, which was hauled twice
every day: We found also in the valley where we got our water, a kind of
large purslain, growing wild in amazing quantities: This was a most
welcome refreshment both raw as a sallad, and boiled with the broth and
pease; when we left the place we carried away enough of it to serve us a
week.
On the 28th, at half an hour after twelve, we weighed and put to sea; at
half an hour after six in the evening the peak of Fuego bore W.N.W.
distant twelve leagues, and in the night the burning mountain was very
visible.
This day I ordered hooks and lines to be served to all the ship's
company, that they might catch fish for themselves; but at the same time
I also ordered that no man should keep his fish more than
four-and-twenty hours before it was eaten, for I had observed that
stale, and even dried fish, had made the people sickly, and tainted the
air in the ship.
On the first of October, in lat. 10° 37' N. we lost the true trade-wind,
and had only light and variable gales; and this day we found that the
ship was set twelve miles to the northward by a current; on the third we
found a current run S. by E. at the rate of six fathom an hour, or about
twenty miles and a half a day: On the seventh we found the ship nineteen
miles to the southward of her reckoning.
On the 20th, our butter and cheese being all expended, we began to serve
the ship's company with oil, and I gave orders that they should also be
served with mustard and vinegar once a fortnight during the rest of the
voyage.
On the 22d we saw an incredible number of birds, and among the rest a
man-of-war bird, which inclined us to think that some land was not more
than sixty leagues distant: This day we crossed the equator in longitude
23° 40' W.
On the 24th, I ordered the ship's company to be served with brandy, and
reserved the wine for the sick and convalescent. On the 26th the Prince
Frederick made signals of distress, upon which we bore down to her, and
found that she had carried away her fore-top-sail-yard, and to supply
this loss, we gave her our sprit-sail top-sail-yard, which we could
spare, and she hoisted it immediately.
On the 27th she again made signals of distress, upon which I brought-to,
and sent the carpenter on board her, who returned with an account that
she had sprung a leak under the larboard cheek forward, and that it was
impossible to do any thing to it till we had better weather. Upon
speaking with Lieutenant Brine, who commanded her, he informed me that
the crew were sickly; that the fatigue of working the pumps, and
constantly standing by the sails, had worn them down; that their
provisions were not food, that they had nothing to drink but water, and
that he feared it would be impossible for him to keep company with me
except I could spare him some assistance. For the badness of their
provision I had no remedy, but I sent on board a carpenter and six
seamen to assist in pumping and working the ship.
On the eighth of November, being in latitude 25° 52' S. longitude 39°
38', we sounded with 160 fathom, but had no ground: On the ninth, having
seen a great number of birds, called albatrosses, we sounded again with
180 fathom, but had no ground.
On the 11th, having by signal brought the store-ship under our stern, I
sent the carpenter, with proper assistants, on board to stop the leak;
but they found that very little could be done: We then completed our
provisions, and those of the Swallow, from her stores, and put on board
her all our staves, iron hoops, and empty oil jars. The next day I sent
a carpenter and six seamen to relieve the men that had been sent to
assist her on the 27th of October, who, by this time, began to suffer
much by their fatigue. Several of her crew having the appearance of the
scurvy, I sent the surgeon on board her with some medicines for the
sick. This day, having seen some albatrosses, turtles, and weeds, we
sounded, but had no ground with 180 fathom.
On the 12th, being now in latitude 30 south, we began to find it very
cold; we therefore got up our quarter cloths, and fitted them to their
proper places, and the seamen put on their thick jackets. This day we
saw a turtle, and several albatrosses, but still had no ground with 180
fathom. We continued to see weeds and birds on board the ship, but had
no ground till the 18th, when we found a soft muddy bottom at the depth
of fifty-four fathom. We were now in lat. 35° 40' S. long. 49° 54' W.;
and this was the first sounding we had after our coming upon the coast
of Brazil.
On the 19th, about eight o'clock in the evening, we saw a meteor of a
very extraordinary appearance in the north-east, which, soon after we
had observed it, flew off in a horizontal line to the south-west, with
amazing rapidity: It was near a minute in its progress, and it left a
train of light behind it so strong, that the deck was not less
illuminated than at noon-day. This day we saw a great number of seals
about the ship, and had soundings at fifty-five fathom, with a muddy
bottom. The next day the seals continued, and we had soundings at
fifty-three fathom, with a dark-coloured sand; upon which we bent our
cables.
On the 21st we had no ground with 150 fathom. Our lat. at noon was 37°
40' S. long 51° 24' W.
On the 22d we had soundings again at seventy fathom, with a dark brown
sand, and saw many whales and seals about the ship, with a great number
of butterflies, and birds, among which were snipes and plovers. Our lat.
at noon was 38° 55' long. 56° 47' W.
Our soundings continued from forty to seventy fathom, till the eighth of
December, when, about six o'clock in the morning, we saw land bearing
from S.W. to W. by S. and appearing like many small islands. At noon it
bore from W. by S. to S.S.W. distant eight leagues; our latitude then
being 47° 16´ S. long. 64° 58´ W. About three o'clock Cape Blanco bore
W.N.W. distant six leagues, and a remarkable double saddle W.S.W.
distant about three leagues. We had now soundings from twenty to sixteen
fathom, sometimes with coarse sand and gravel, sometimes with small
black stones and shells. At eight in the evening the Tower rock at Port
Desire bore S.W. by W. distant about three leagues; and the extremes of
the land from S. by E. to N.W. by N. At nine, Penguin Island bore S.W.
by W. 1/2 W. distant two leagues; and at four o'clock in the morning of
the ninth, the land seen from the mast-head bore from S.W. to W. by N.
At noon, Penguin island bore S. by E. distant fifty-seven miles; our
latitude being 48° 56' S. longitude 65° 6' W. This day we saw such a
quantity of red shrimps about the ship that the sea was coloured with
them.
At noon the next day, Wednesday the 10th, the extremes of the land bore
from S.W. to N.W. and Wood's Mount, near the entrance of St Julian's,
bore S.W. by W. distant three or four leagues. Our latitude was 49° 16'
S. our longitude 66° 48' W.; and our soundings were from forty to
forty-five fathom, sometimes fine sand, sometimes soft mud.
At noon, on Thursday the 11th, Penguin Island bore N.N.E. distant
fifty-eight leagues. Our latitude was 50° 48' S. our longitude 67° 10'
W.
We continued our course till Saturday the 13th, when our latitude being
50° 34' S. and our longitude 68° 15' W. the extremes of the land bore
from N. 1/2 E. to S.S.W. 1/2 W. and the ship was about five or six miles
distant from the shore. Cape Beachy-head, the northermost cape, was
found to lie in latitude 50° 16' S. and Cape Fairweather, the
southermost cape, in latitude 50° 50' S.
On Sunday the 14th, at four in the morning, Cape Beachy-head bore N.W.
1/2 N. distant about eight leagues; and at noon, our latitude being 50°
52' S. and longitude 68° 10' W. Penguin island bore N. 35° E. distant 68
leagues. We were six leagues from the shore, and the extremes of the
land were from N.W. to W.S.W.
At eight o'clock in the morning of Monday the 15th, being about six
miles from the shore, the extremes of the land bore from S. by E. to N.
by E. and the entrance of the river St Croix S.W. 1/2 W. We had twenty
fathom quite cross the opening, the distance from point to point being
about seven miles, and afterwards keeping at the distance of about four
miles from each cape, we had from twenty-two to twenty-four fathom. The
land on the north shore is high, and appears in three capes; that on the
south shore is low and flat. At seven in the evening, Cape Fairweather
bore S.W. 1/2 S. distant about four leagues, a low point running out
from it S.S.W. 3/4 W. We stood off and on all night, and had from thirty
to twenty-two fathom water, with a bottom of sand and mud. At seven the
next morning, Tuesday the 16th, we shoaled gradually into twelve fathom,
with a bottom of fine sand, and soon after into six; we then hauled off
S.E. by S. somewhat more than a mile: then steered east five miles,
then E. by N. and deepened into twelve fathom. Cape Fairweather at this
time bore W. 1/2 S. distant four leagues, and the northermost extremity
of the land W.N.W. When we first came into shoal water, Cape Fairweather
bore W. 1/2 N. and a low point without it W.S.W. distant about four
miles. At noon Cape Fairweather bore W.N.W. 1/2 W. distant six leagues,
and a large hummock S.W. 1/2 W. distant seven leagues. At this time our
lat. was 51° 32' W. long. 68° W.
At one o'clock, being about two leagues distant from the shore, the
extremes of three remarkable round hills bore from S.W. by W. to W.S.W.
At four, Cape Virgin Mary bore S.E. by S. distant about four leagues. At
eight, we were very near the Cape, and upon the point of it saw several
men riding, who made signs for us to come on shore. In about half an
hour we anchored in a bay, close under the south side of the Cape, in
ten fathom water, with a gravelly bottom. The Swallow and store-ship
anchored soon after between us and the Cape, which then bore N. by W.
1/2 W. and a low sandy point like Dungeness S. by W. From the Cape there
runs a shoal, to the distance of about half a league, which may be
easily known by the weeds that are upon it. We found it high water at
half an hour after eleven, and the tide rose twenty feet.
The natives continued abreast of the ship all night, making several
great fires, and frequently shouting very loud. As soon as it was light,
on Wednesday morning the 17th, we saw great numbers of them in motion,
who made signs for us to land. About five o'clock I made the signal for
the boats belonging to the Swallow and the Prince Frederick to come on
board, and in the meantime hoisted out our own. These boats being all
manned and armed, I took a party of marines, and rowed towards the
shore, having left orders with the master to bring the ship's broad-side
to bear upon the landing place, and to keep the guns loaded with round
shot. We reached the beach about six o'clock, and before we went from
the boat, I made signs to the natives to retire to some distance: They
immediately complied, and I then landed with the Captain of the Swallow,
and several of the officers: The marines were drawn up, and the boats
were brought to a grappling near the shore. I then made signs to the
natives to come near, and directed them to sit down in a semicircle,
which they did with great order and cheerfulness. When this was done, I
distributed among them several knives, scissars, buttons, beads, combs,
and other toys, particularly some ribbands to the women, which they
received with a very becoming mixture of pleasure and respect. Having
distributed my presents, I endeavoured to make them understand that I
had other things which I would part with, but for which I expected
somewhat in return. I shewed them some hatchets and bill-hooks, and
pointed to some guanicoes, which happened to be near, and some ostriches
which I saw dead among them; making signs at the same time I wanted to
eat; but they either could not, or would not understand me: For though
they seemed very desirous of the hatchets and the bill-hooks, they did
not give the least intimation that they would part with any provisions;
no traffic therefore was carried on between us.
Each of these people, both men and women, had a horse, with a decent
saddle, stirrups, and bridle. The men had wooden spurs, except one, who
had a large pair of such as are worn in Spain, brass stirrups, and a
Spanish scymitar, without a scabbard; but notwithstanding these
distinctions, he did not appear to have any authority over the rest; the
women had no spurs. The horses appeared to be well-made, and nimble, and
were about fourteen hands high. The people had also many dogs with them,
which, as well as the horses, appeared to be of a Spanish breed.
As I had two measuring rods with me, we went round and measured those
that appeared to be tallest among them. One of these was six feet six
inches high, several more were six feet five, and six feet six inches;
but the stature of the greater part of them was from five feet ten to
six feet. Their complexion is a dark copper-colour, like that of the
Indians in North America; their hair is straight, and nearly as harsh as
hog's bristles: It is tied back with a cotton string, but neither sex
wears any head-dress. They are well-made, robust, and bony; but their
hands and feet are remarkably small. They are clothed with the skins of
the guanico, sewed together into pieces about six feet long and five
wide: These are wrapped round the body, and fastened with a girdle, with
the hairy side inwards; some of them had also what the Spaniards have
called a _puncho_, a square piece of cloth made of the downy hair of the
guanico, through which a hole being cut for the head, the rest hangs
round them about as low as the knee. The guanico is an animal that in
size, make, and colour, resembles a deer, but it has a hump on its back,
and no horns. These people wear also a kind of drawers, which they pull
up very tight, and buskins, which reach from the mid-leg to the instep
before, and behind are brought under the heel; the rest of the foot is
without any covering. We observed that some of the men, had a circle
painted round the left eye, and that others were painted on their arms,
and on different parts of the face; the eye-lids of all the young women
were painted black. They talked much, and some of them called out
Ca-pi-ta-ne; but when they were spoken to in Spanish, Portuguese,
French, and Dutch, they made no reply. Of their own language we could
distinguish only one word, which was _chevow_: We supposed it to be a
salutation, as they always pronounced it when they shook hands with us,
and when, by signs, they asked us to give them any thing. When they were
spoken to in English, they repeated the words after us as plainly as we
could do; and they soon got by heart the words, "Englishmen come on
shore." Every one had a missile weapon of a singular kind, tucked into
the girdle. It consisted of two round stones, covered with leather, each
weighing about a pound, which were fastened to the two ends of a string
about eight feet long. This is used as a sling, one stone being kept in
the hand, and the other whirled round the head till it is supposed to
have acquired sufficient force, and then discharged at the object. They
are so expert in the management of this double-headed shot, that they
will hit a mark, not bigger than a shilling, with both the stones, at
the distance of fifteen yards; it is not their custom, however, to
strike either the guanico or the ostrich with them in the chase, but
they discharge them so that the cord comes against the legs of the
ostrich, or two of the legs of the guanico, and is twisted round them by
the force of the swing of the balls, so that the animal being unable to
run, becomes an easy prey to the hunter.
[Illustration: CHART of the SANDWICH ISLANDS]
While we stayed on shore, we saw them eat some of their flesh-meat raw,
particularly the paunch of an ostrich, without any other preparation or
cleaning than just turning it inside out, and shaking it. We observed
among them several beads, such as I gave them, and two pieces of red
baize, which we supposed had been left there, or in the neighbouring
country, by Commodore Byron.
After I had spent about four hours with these people, I made signs to
them that I was going on board, and that I would take some of them with
me if they were desirous to go. As soon as I had made myself understood,
above an hundred eagerly offered to visit the ship; but I did not chuse
to indulge more than eight of the number. They jumped into the boats
with the joy and alacrity of children going to a fair, and, having no
intention of mischief against us, had not the least suspicion that we
intended any mischief against them. They sung several of their country
songs while they were in the boat, and when they came on board did not
express either the curiosity or wonder which the multiplicity of
objects, to them equally strange and stupendous, that at once presented
themselves, might be supposed to excite. I took them down into the
cabin, where they looked about them with an unaccountable indifference,
till one of them happened to cast his eyes upon a looking-glass: This,
however, excited no more astonishment than the prodigies which offer
themselves to our imagination in a dream, when we converse with the
dead, fly in the air, and walk upon the sea, without reflecting that the
laws of nature are violated; but it afforded them infinite diversion:
They advanced, retreated, and played a thousand tricks before it,
laughing violently, and talking with great emphasis to each other. I
gave them some beef, pork, biscuit, and other articles of the ship's
provisions: They eat indiscriminately whatever was offered to them, but
they would drink nothing but water. From the cabin I carried them all
over the ship, but they looked at nothing with much attention, except
the animals which we had on board as live stock: They examined the hogs
and sheep with some curiosity, and were exceedingly delighted with the
Guinea hens and turkies; they did not seem to desire any thing that they
saw except our apparel, and only one of them, an old man, asked for
that: We gratified him with a pair of shoes and buckles, and to each of
the others I gave a canvass bag, in which I put some needles ready
threaded, a few slips of cloth, a knife, a pair of scissars, some twine,
a few beads, a comb, and a looking-glass, with some new sixpences and
half-pence, through which a hole had been drilled, that was fitted with
a ribband to hang round the neck. We offered them some leaves of
tobacco, rolled up into what are called segars, and they smoked a
little, but did not seem fond of it. I showed them the great guns, but
they did not appear to have any notion of their use. After I had carried
them through the ship, I ordered the marines to be drawn up, and go
through part of their exercise. When the first volley was fired, they
were struck with astonishment and terror; the old man, in particular,
threw himself down upon the deck, pointed to the muskets, and then
striking his breast with his hand, lay some time motionless, with his
eyes shut: By this we supposed he intended to shew us that he was not
unacquainted with fire-arms, and their fatal effect. The rest, seeing
our people merry, and finding themselves unhurt, soon resumed their
cheerfulness and good humour, and heard the second and third volley
fired without much emotion; but the old man continued prostrate upon the
deck some time, and never recovered his spirits till the firing was
over. About noon, the tide being out, I acquainted them by signs that
the ship was proceeding farther, and that they must go on shore: This I
soon perceived they were very unwilling to do; all, however, except the
old man and one more, were got into the boat without much difficulty;
but these stopped at the gang-way, where the old man turned about, and
went aft to the companion ladder, where he stood some time without
speaking a word; he then uttered what we supposed to be a prayer; for he
many times lifted up his hands and his eyes to the heavens, and spoke in
a manner and tone very different from what we had observed in their
conversation: His orison seemed to be rather sung than said, so that we
found it impossible to distinguish one word from another. When I again
intimated that it was proper for him to go into the boat, he pointed to
the sun, and then moving his hand round to the west, he paused, looked
in my face, laughed, and pointed to the shore: By this it was easy to
understand that he wished to stay on board till sunset, and I took no
little pains to convince him that we could not stay so long upon that
part of the coast, before he could be prevailed upon to go into the
boat; at length, however, he went over the ship's side with his
companion, and when the boat put off they all began to sing, and
continued their merriment till they got on shore. When they landed,
great numbers of those on shore pressed eagerly to get into the boat;
but the officer on board, having positive orders to bring none of them
off, prevented them, though not without great difficulty, and apparently
to their extreme mortification and disappointment.
When the boat returned on board, I sent her off again with the master,
to sound the shoal that runs off from the point: He found it about three
miles broad from north to south, and that to avoid it, it was necessary
to keep four miles off the cape, in twelve or thirteen fathom water.
SECTION II.
_The Passage through the Streight of Magellan, with some further Account
of the Patagonians, and a Description of the Coast on each side, and its
Inhabitants._
About one o'clock, on Wednesday the 17th of December, I made the signal
and weighed, ordering the Swallow to go a-head, and the store-ship to
bring up the rear. The wind was right against us, and blew fresh; so
that we were obliged to turn into the Streight of Magellan with the
flood-tide, between Cape Virgin Mary and the Sandy Point that resembles
Dungeness. When we got a-breast of this Point, we stood close into the
shore, where we saw two guanicoes, and many of the natives on horseback,
who seemed to be in pursuit of them: When the horsemen came near, they
ran up the country at a great rate, and were pursued by the hunters,
with their slings in their hands ready for the cast; but neither of them
was taken while they were within the reach of our sight.
When we got about two leagues to the west of Dungeness, and were
standing off shore, we fell in with a shoal upon which we had but seven
fathom water at half flood; This obliged us to make short tacks, and
keep continually heaving the lead. At half an hour after eight in the
evening, we anchored about three miles from the shore, in 20 fathom,
with a muddy bottom: Cape Virgin Mary then bearing N.E. by E. 1/2 E.;
Point Possession W. 1/2 S. at the distance of about five leagues.
About half an hour after we had cast anchor, the natives made several
large fires a-breast of the ship, and at break of day we saw about four
hundred of them encamped in a fine green valley, between two hills, with
their horses feeding beside them. About six o'clock in the morning, the
tide being done, we got again under sail: Its course here is from east
to west; it rises and falls thirty feet, and its strength is equal to
about three knots an hour. About noon there being little wind, and the
ebb running with great force, the Swallow, which was a-head, made the
signal and came to an anchor; upon which I did the same, and so did the
store-ship that was a-stern.
As we saw great numbers of the natives on horseback a-breast of the
ship, and as Captain Carteret informed me that this was the place where
Commodore Byron had the conference with the tall men, I sent the
lieutenants of the Swallow and the store-ship to the shore, but with
orders not to land, as the ships were at too great a distance to protect
them. When these gentlemen returned, they told me, that the boat having
lain upon her oars very near the beach, the natives came down in great
numbers; whom they knew to be the same persons they had seen the day
before, with many others, particularly women and children; that when
they perceived our people had no design to land, they seemed to be
greatly disappointed, and those who had been on board the ship waded off
to the boat, making signs for it to advance, and pronouncing the words
they had been taught, "Englishmen come on shore," very loud, many times;
that when they found they could not get the people to land, they would
fain have got into the boat, and that it was with great difficulty they
were prevented. That they presented them with some bread, tobacco, and a
few toys, pointing at the same time to some guanicoes and ostriches, and
making signs that they wanted them as provisions, but that they could
not make themselves understood; that finding they could obtain no
refreshment, they rowed along the shore in search of fresh water, but
that, seeing no appearance of a rivulet, they returned on board.
At six o'clock the next morning, we weighed, the Swallow being still
a-head, and at noon we anchored in Possession Bay, having twelve fathom,
with a clean sandy bottom. Point Possession at this time bore east,
distant three leagues; the Asses Ears west, and the entrance of the
Narrows S.W. 1/2 W.: The bottom of the bay, which was the nearest land
to the ship, was distant about three miles. We saw a great number of
Indians upon the Point, and at night, large fires on the Terra del Fuego
shore.
From this time, to the 22d, we had strong gales and heavy seas, so that
we got on but slowly; and we now anchored in 18 fathom, with a muddy
bottom. The Asses Ears bore N.W. by W. 1/2 W. Point Possession N.E. by
E. and the point of the Narrows, on the south side, S.S.W. distant
between three and four leagues. In this situation, our longitude, by
observation, was 70° 20' W. latitude 52° 30' S. The tide here sets S.E.
by S. and N.E. by N. at the rate of about three knots an hour; the water
rises four-and-twenty feet, and at this time it was high water at four
in the morning.
In the morning of the 23d, we made sail, turning to windward, but the
tide was so strong, that the Swallow was set one way, the Dolphin
another, and the store-ship a third: There was a fresh breeze, but not
one of the vessels would answer her helm. We had various soundings, and
saw the rippling in the middle ground: In these circumstances, sometimes
backing, sometimes filling, we entered the first Narrows. About six
o'clock in the evening, the tide being done, we anchored on the south
shore, in forty fathom with a sandy bottom; the Swallow anchored on the
north shore, and the store-ship not a cable's length from a sand-bank,
about two miles to the eastward. The streight here is only three miles
wide, and at midnight, the tide being slack, we weighed and towed the
ship through. A breeze sprung up soon afterwards, which continued till
seven in the morning, and then died away. We steered from the first
Narrows to the second S.W. and had nineteen fathom, with a muddy bottom.
At eight we anchored two leagues from the shore, in 24 fathom, Cape
Gregory bearing W. 1/2 N. and Sweepstakes Foreland S.W. 1/2 W. The tide
here ran seven knots an hour, and such _bores_ sometimes came down, with
immense quantities of weeds, that we expected every moment to be adrift.
The next day, being Christmas day, we sailed through the second Narrows.
In turning through this part of the Streight we had twelve fathom within
half a mile of the shore on each side, and in the middle seventeen
fathom, twenty-two fathom, and no ground. At five o'clock in the
evening, the ship suddenly shoaled from seventeen fathom to five, St
Bartholomew's island then bearing S. 1/2 W. distant between three and
four miles, and Elizabeth's Island S.S.W. 1/2 W. distant five or six
miles. About half an hour after eight o'clock, the weather being rainy
and tempestuous, we anchored under Elizabeth's island in twenty-four
fathom, with hard gravelly ground. Upon this island we found great
quantities of celery, which, by the direction of the surgeon, was given
to the people, with boiled wheat and portable soup, for breakfast every
morning. Some of the officers who went a-shore with their guns, saw two
small dogs, and several places where fires had been recently made, with
many fresh shells of mussels and limpets lying about them: They saw
also several wigwams or huts, consisting of young trees, which, being
sharpened at one end, and thrust into the ground in a circular form, the
other ends were brought to meet, and fastened together at the top; but
they saw none of the natives.
From this place we saw many high mountains, bearing from S. to W.S.W.;
several parts of the summits were covered with snow, though it was the
midst of summer in this part of the world: They were clothed with wood
about three parts of their height, and above with herbage, except where
the snow was not yet melted. This was the first place where we had seen
wood in all South America.
At two o'clock in the morning of the 26th, we weighed, and, having a
fair wind, were a-breast of the north end of Elizabeth's Island at
three: At half an hour after five, being about mid-way between
Elizabeth's Island and St George's Island, we suddenly shoaled our water
from seventeen fathom to six: We struck the ground once, but the next
cast had no bottom with twenty fathom. When we were upon this shoal,
Cape Porpoise bore W.S.W. 1/2 W. the south end of Elizabeth's island
W.N.W. 1/2 W. distant three leagues; the south end of Saint George's
Island N.E. distant four leagues. The store-ship, which was about half a
league to the southward of us, had once no more than four fathom, and
for a considerable time not seven; the Swallow, which was three or four
miles, to the southward, bad deep water, for she kept near to St
George's Island. In my opinion it is safest to run down from the north
end of Elizabeth's Island, about two or three miles from the shore, and
so on all the way to Port Famine. At noon a low point bore E. 1/2 N.;
Fresh-water Bay S.W. 1/2 W. At this time we were about three miles
distant from the north shore, and had no ground with eighty fathom. Our
longitude, by observation, which was made over the shoal, was 71° 20' W.
our latitude 53° 12' S.
About four o'clock we anchored in Port Famine Bay, in thirteen fathom,
and there being little wind, sent all the boats, and towed in the
Swallow and Prince Frederick.
The next morning, the weather being squally, we warped the ship farther
into the harbour, and moored her with a cable each way in nine fathom. I
then sent a party of men to pitch two large tents in the bottom of the
bay, for the sick, the wooders, and the sail-makers, who were soon after
sent on shore, with the surgeon, the gunner, and some midshipmen. Cape
St Anne now bore N.E. by E. distant three quarters of a mile, and Sedger
river S. 1/2 W.
On the 28th we unbent all the sails, and sent them on shore to be
repaired, erected tents upon the banks of Sedger river, and sent all the
empty casks on shore, with the coopers to trim them, and a mate and ten
men to wash and fill them. We also hauled the seine, and caught fish in
great plenty: Some of them resembled a mullet, but the flesh was very
soft; and among them were a few smelts, some of which were twenty inches
long, and weighed four-and-twenty ounces.
During our whole stay in this place we caught fish enough to furnish one
meal a day both for the sick and the well: We found also great plenty of
celery and pea-tops, which were boiled with the pease and portable soup.
Besides these, we gathered great quantities of fruit that resembled the
cranberry, and the leaves of a shrub somewhat like our thorn, which were
remarkably sour. When we arrived, all our people began to look pale and
meagre; many had the scurvy to a great degree, and upon others there
were manifest signs of its approach; yet in a fortnight there was not a
scorbutic person in either of the ships. Their recovery was effected by
their being on shore, eating plenty of vegetables, being obliged to wash
their apparel, and keep their persons clean by daily bathing in the sea.
The next day we set up the forge on shore; and from this time, the
armourers, carpenters, and the rest of the people, were employed in
refitting the ship, and making her ready for the sea.
In the mean time a considerable quantity of wood was cut, and put on
board the store-ship, to be sent to Falkland's Island; and as I well
knew there was no wood growing there, I caused some thousands of young
trees to be carefully taken up with their roots, and a proper quantity
of earth; and, packing them in the best manner I could, I put them also
on board the store-ship, with orders to deliver them to the commanding
officer at Port Egmont, and to sail for that place with the first fair
wind, putting on board two of my seamen, who, being in an ill state of
health when they first came on board, were now altogether unfit to
proceed in the voyage.
On Wednesday the 14th of January we got all our people and tents on
board; having taken in seventy-five tons of water from the shore, and
twelve months provisions of all kinds, at whole allowance for ourselves,
and ten months for the Swallow, from on board the store-ship, I sent the
master in the cutter, which was victualled for a week, to look out for
anchoring-places on the north shore of the streight.
After several attempts to sail, the weather obliged us to continue in
our old station till Saturday the 17th, when the Prince Frederick
victualler sailed for Falkland's Island, and the master returned from
his expedition. The master reported that he had found four places in
which there was good anchorage, between the place were we lay and Cape
Froward: That he had been on shore at several places, where he had found
plenty of wood and water close to the beach, with abundance of
cranberries and wild celery. He reported also, that he had seen a great
number of currant bushes full of fruit, though none of it was ripe, and
a great variety of beautiful shrubs in full blossom, bearing flowers of
different colours, particularly red, purple, yellow, and white, besides
great plenty of the Winter's bark, a grateful spice which is well known
to the botanists of Europe. He shot several wild ducks, geese, gulls, a
hawk, and two or three of the birds which the sailors call a race-horse.
At five o'clock in the morning of Sunday the 18th we made sail, and at
noon, being about two miles from the shore, Cape Froward bore N. by E. a
bluff point N.N.W. and Cape Holland W. 1/2 S. Our latitude at this
place, by observation, was 54° 3' S. and we found the streight to be
about six miles wide. Soon after I sent a boat into Snug Bay, to lie at
the anchoring-place, but the wind coming from the land, I stood off
again all night; and at a mile from the shore we had no ground with 140
fathom.
In the morning of Monday the 19th, the Swallow having made the signal
for anchoring under Cape Holland, we ran in, and anchored in ten fathom,
with a clear sandy bottom. Upon sending the boats out to sound, we
discovered that we were very near a reef of rocks; we therefore tripped
the anchor, and dropped farther out, where we had twelve fathom, and
were about half a mile from the shore, just opposite to a large stream
of water, which falls with great rapidity from the mountains, for the
land here is of a stupendous height. Cape Holland bore W.S.W. 1/2 W.
distant two miles, and Cape Froward E. Our latitude, by observation, was
53° 58' S.
The next morning we got off some water, and great plenty of wild celery,
but could get no fish except a few mussels. I sent off the boats to
sound, and found that there was good anchorage at about half a mile from
the shore, quite from the cape to four miles below it; and close by the
cape a good harbour, where a ship might refresh with more safety than at
Port Famine, and avail herself of a large river of fresh water, with
plenty of wood, celery, and berries; though the place affords no fish
except mussels.
Having completed our wood and water, we sailed from, this place on the
22d, about three o'clock in the afternoon. At nine in the evening, the
ship being about two miles distant from the shore, Cape Gallant bore
W.1/2 N. distant two leagues, Cape Holland E. by N. distant six leagues;
Cape Gallant and Cape Holland being nearly in one: A white patch in
Monmouth's Island bore S.S.W.3/4 W. Rupert's Island W.S.W. At this place
the strait is not more than five miles over; and we found a tide which
produced a very unusual effect, for it became impossible to keep the
ship's head upon any point.
At six the next morning, the Swallow made the signal for having found
anchorage; and at eight we anchored in a bay under Cape Gallant, in ten
fathom, with a muddy bottom. The east point of Cape Gallant bore S.W. by
1/4 W. the extreme point of the eastermost land E. by S. a point making
the mouth of a river N. by W. and the white patch on Charles' Island
S.W. The boats being sent out to sound, found good anchorage
every-where, except within two cables' length S.W. of the ship, where it
was coral, and deepened to sixteen fathom. In the afternoon I sent out
the master to examine the bay and a large lagoon; and he reported that
the lagoon was the most commodious harbour we had yet seen in the
strait, having five fathom at the entrance, and from four to five in the
middle; that it was capable of receiving a great number of vessels, had
three large fresh-water rivers, and plenty of wood and celery. We had
here the misfortune to have a seine spoiled, by being entangled with the
wood that lies sunk at the mouth of these rivers; but though we caught
but little fish, we had an incredible number of wild ducks, which we
found a very good succedaneum.
The mountains are here very lofty, and the master of the Swallow climbed
one of the highest, hoping that from the summit he should obtain a sight
of the South Sea; but he found his view intercepted by mountains still
higher on the southern shore: Before he descended, however, he erected a
pyramid, within which he deposited a bottle containing a shilling, and a
paper on which was written the ship's name, and the date of the year; a
memorial which possibly may remain there as long as the world endures.
In the morning of the 24th we took two boats and examined Cordes bay,
which we found very much inferior to that in which the ship lay; it had
indeed a larger lagoon, but the entrance of it was very narrow, and
barred by a shoal, on which there was not sufficient depth of water for
a ship of burden to float: The entrance of the bay also was rocky, and
within it the ground was foul.
In this place we saw an animal that resembled an ass, but it had a
cloven hoof, as we discovered afterwards by tracking it, and was as
swift as a deer. This was the first animal we had seen in the streight,
except at the entrance, where we found the guanicoes that we would fain
have trafficked for with the Indians. We shot at this creature, but we
could not hit it; probably it is altogether unknown to the naturalists
of Europe.
The country about this place has the most dreary and forlorn appearance
that can be imagined; the mountains on each side the streight are of an
immense height: About one-fourth of the ascent is covered with trees of
a considerable size; in the space from thence to the middle of the
mountain there is nothing but withered shrubs; above these are patches
of snow, and fragments of broken rock; and the summit is altogether rude
and naked, towering above the clouds in vast crags that are piled upon
each other, and look like the ruins of nature devoted to everlasting
sterility and desolation.
We went over in two boats to the Royal Islands, and sounded, but found
no bottom: A very rapid tide set through wherever there was an opening;
and they cannot be approached by shipping without the most imminent
danger. Whoever navigates this part of the streight, should keep the
north shore close on board all the way, and not venture more than a mile
from it till the Royal islands are passed. The current sets easterly
through the whole four-and-twenty hours, and the indraught should by
all means be avoided. The latitude of Cape Gallant road is 53° 50'S.
We continued in this station, taking in wood and water, and gathering
mussels and herbs, till the morning of the 27th, when, a boat that had
been sent to try the current, returned with an account that it set
nearly at the rate of two miles an hour, but that, the wind being
northerly, we might probably get round to Elizabeth Bay or York Road
before night; we therefore weighed with all expedition. At noon on the
28th, the west point of Cape Gallant bore W.N.W. distant half a mile,
and the white patch on Charles' Island S.E. by S. We had fresh gales and
heavy flaws off the land; and at two o'clock the west point of Cape
Gallant bore E. distant three leagues, and York Point W.N.W. distant
five leagues. At five, we opened York Road, the point bearing N.W. at
the distance of half a mile: At this time the ship was taken a-back, and
a strong current with a heavy squall drove us so far to leeward, that it
was with great difficulty we got into Elizabeth Bay, and anchored in
twelve fathom near a river. The Swallow being at anchor off the point of
the bay, and very near the rocks, I sent all the boats with anchors and
hausers to her assistance, and at last she was happily warped to
windward into good anchorage. York Point now bore W. by N. a shoal with
weeds upon it W.N.W. at the distance of a cable's length. Point Passage
S.E. 1/2 E. distant half a mile, a rock near Rupert's Isle S.1/2 E. and a
rivulet on the bay N.E. by E. distant about three cables' length. Soon
after sun-set we saw a great smoke on the southern shore, and another on
Prince Rupert's Island.
Early in the morning I sent the boats on shore for water, and soon after
our people landed, three canoes put off from the south shore, and landed
sixteen of the natives on the east point of the bay. When they came
within about a hundred yards of our people they stopt, called out, and
made signs of friendship: Our people did the same, shewing them some
beads and other toys. At this they seemed pleased, and began to shout;
our people imitated the noise they made, and shouted in return: The
Indians then advanced, still shouting, and laughing very loud. When the
parties met they shook hands, and our men presented the Indians with
several of the toys which they had shewn them at a distance. They were
covered with seal-skins, which stunk abominably, and some of them were
eating the rotten flesh and blubber raw, with a keen appetite and great
seeming satisfaction. Their complexion was the same as that of the
people we had seen before, but they were low of stature, the tallest of
them not being more than five foot six: They appeared to be perishing
with cold, and immediately kindled several fires. How they subsist in
winter, it is not perhaps easy to guess, for the weather was at this
time so severe, that we had frequent falls of snow. They were armed with
bows, arrows, and javelins; the arrows and javelins were pointed with
flint, which was wrought into the shape of a serpent's tongue; and they
discharged both with great force and dexterity, scarce ever failing to
hit a mark at a considerable distance. To kindle a fire they strike a
pebble against a piece of mundic, holding under it, to catch the sparks,
some moss or down, mixed with a whitish earth, which takes fire like
tinder: They then take some dry grass; of which there is every-where
plenty, and, putting the lighted moss into it, wave it to and fro, and
in about a minute it blazes.
When the boat returned she brought three of them on board the ship, but
they seemed to regard nothing with any degree of curiosity, except our
clothes and a looking-glass; the looking-glass afforded them as much
diversion as it had done the Patagonians, and it seemed to surprise them
more: When they first peeped into it they started, back, first looking
at us, and then at each other; they then took another peep, as it were
by stealth, starting back as before; and then eagerly looking behind it:
When by degrees they became familiar with it, they smiled, and seeing
the image smile in return, they were exceedingly delighted, and burst
into fits of the most violent laughter. They left this however, and
every thing else, with perfect indifference, the little they possessed
being to all appearance equal to their desires. They eat whatever was
given them, but would drink nothing but water.
When they left the ship I went on shore with them, and by this time
several of their wives and children were come to the watering-place. I
distributed some trinkets among them, with which they seemed pleased for
a moment, and they gave us same of their arms in return; they gave us
also several pieces of mundic, such as is found in the tin mines of
Cornwall: They made us understand that they found it in the mountains,
where there are probably mines of tin, and perhaps of more valuable
metal. When they left us and embarked in their canoes, they hoisted a
sealskin for a sail, and steered for the southern shore, where we saw
many of their hovels; and we remarked that not one of them looked
behind, either at us or at the ship, so little impression had the
wonders they had seen made upon their minds, and so much did they appear
to be absorbed in the present, without any habitual exercise of their
power to reflect upon the past.
In this station we continued till Tuesday the 3d of February. At about
half an hour past twelve we weighed, and in a sudden squall were taken
a-back, so as that both ships were in the most imminent danger of being
driven ashore on a reef of rocks; the wind however suddenly shifted, and
we happily got off without damage. At five o'clock in the afternoon, the
tide being done, and the wind coming about to the west, we bore away for
York Road, and at length anchored in it: The Swallow at the same time
being very near Island Bay, under Cape Quod, endeavoured to get in
there, but was by the tide obliged to return to York Road. In this
situation Cape Quod bore W. 1/2 S. distant 19 miles, York Point E.S.E.
distant one mile, Bachelor's River N.N.W. three quarters of a mile, the
entrance of Jerom's Sound N.W. by W. and a small island on the south
shore W. by S. We found the tide here very rapid and uncertain; in the
stream it generally set to the eastward, but it sometimes, though
rarely, set westward six hours together. This evening we saw five Indian
canoes come out of Bachelor's River, and go up Jerom's Sound.
In the morning, the boats which I had sent out to sound both the shores
of the streight and all parts of the bay, returned with an account that
there was good anchorage within Jerom's Sound, and all the way thither
from the ship's station at the distance of about half a mile from the
shore; also between Elizabeth and York Point, near York Point, at the
distance of a cable and a half's length from the weeds, in sixteen
fathom, with a muddy bottom. There were also several places under the
islands on the south shore where a ship might anchor; but the force and
uncertainty of the tides, and the heavy gusts of wind that came off the
high lands, by which these situations were surrounded, rendered them
unsafe. Soon after the boats returned, I put fresh hands into them, and
went myself up Bachelor's River: We found a bar at the entrance, which
at certain times of the tide must be dangerous. We hauled the seine,
and should have caught plenty of fish if it had not been for the weeds
and stumps of trees at the bottom of the river. We then went ashore,
where we saw many wigwams of the natives, and several of their dogs,
who, as soon as we came in sight, ran away. We also saw some ostriches,
but they were beyond the reach of our pieces: We gathered mussels,
limpets, sea-eggs, celery, and nettles, in great abundance. About three
miles up this river, on the west side, between Mount Misery and another
mountain of a stupendous height, there is a cataract which has a very
striking appearance: It is precipitated from an elevation of above four
hundred yards; half the way it rolls over a very steep declivity, and
the other half is a perpendicular fall. The sound of this cataract is
not less awful than the sight.
In this place contrary winds detained us till 10 o'clock in the morning
of Saturday the 14th, when we weighed, and in half an hour the current
set the ship towards Bachelor's River: We then put her in stays, and
while she was coming about, which she was long in doing, we drove over a
shoal where we had little more than sixteen feet water with rocky
ground; so that our danger was very great, for the ship drew sixteen
feet nine inches aft, and fifteen feet one inch forward: As soon as the
ship gathered way, we happily deepened into three fathom; within two
cables' length we had five, and in a very short time we got into deep
water. We continued plying to windward till four o'clock in the
afternoon, and then finding that we had lost ground, we returned to our
station, and again anchored in York Road.
Here we remained till five o'clock in the morning of the 17th, when we
weighed, and towed out of the road. At nine, though we had a fine breeze
at west, the ship was carried with great violence by a current towards
the south shore: The boats were all towing a-head, and the sails asleep,
yet we drove so close to the rock, that the oars of the boats were
entangled in the weeds. In this manner we were hurried along near three
quarters of an hour, expecting every moment to be dashed to pieces
against the cliff, from which we were seldom farther than a ship's
length, and very often not half so much. We sounded on both sides, and
found that next the shore we had from fourteen to twenty fathom, and on
the other side of the ship no bottom: As all our efforts were
ineffectual, we resigned ourselves to our fate, and waited the event in
a state of suspense very little different from despair. At length,
however, we opened Saint David's Sound, and a current that rushed out of
it set us into the mid-channel. During all this time the Swallow was on
the north shore, and consequently could know nothing of our danger till
it was past. We now sent the boats out to look for an anchoring-place;
and at noon Cape Quod bore N.N.E. and Saint David's head S.E.
About one o'clock the boats returned, having found an anchoring-place in
a small bay, to which we gave the name of Butler's Bay, it having been
discovered by Mr Butler, one of the mates. It lies to the west of
Rider's Bay on the south shore of the streight, which is here about two
miles wide. We ran in with the tide which set fast to the westward, and
anchored in sixteen fathom water. The extremes of the bay from W. by N.
to N.1/2 W. are about a quarter of a mile asunder; a small rivulet, at
the distance of somewhat less than two cables' length, bore S.1/2 W. and
Cape Quod N. at the distance of four miles. At this time the Swallow was
at anchor in Island Bay on the north shore, at about six miles distance.
I now sent all the boats out to sound round the ship and in the
neighbouring bays; and they returned with an account that they could
find no place fit to receive the ship, neither could any such place be
found between Cape Quod and Cape Notch.
In this place we remained till Friday the 20th, when about noon the
clouds gathered very thick to the westward, and before one it blew a
storm, with such rain and hail, as we had scarcely ever seen. We
immediately struck the yards and top-masts, and having run out two
hausers to a rock, we hove the ship up to it: We then let go the small
bower, and veered away, and brought both cables a-head; at the same time
we carried out two more hausers, and made them fast to two other rocks,
making use of every expedient in our power to keep the ship steady. The
gale continued to increase till six o'clock in the evening, and to our
great astonishment the sea broke quite over the forecastle in upon the
quarter-deck, which, considering the narrowness of the streight, and the
smallness of the bay in which we were stationed, might well have been
thought impossible. Our danger here was very great, for if the cables
had parted, as we could not run out with a sail, and as we had not room
to bring the ship up with any other anchor, we must have been dashed to
pieces in a few minutes, and in such a situation it is highly probable
that every soul would immediately have perished; however, by eight
o'clock the gale was become somewhat more moderate, and gradually
decreasing during the night, we had tolerable weather the next morning.
Upon heaving the anchor, we had the satisfaction to find that our cable
was sound, though our hawsers were much rubbed by the rocks,
notwithstanding they were parcelled with old hammacoes, and other
things. The first thing I did after performing the necessary operations
about the ship, was to send a boat to the Swallow to enquire how she had
fared during the gale: The boat returned with an account that she had
felt but little of the gale, but that she had been very near being lost,
in pushing through the islands two days before, by the rapidity of the
tide: That notwithstanding an alteration which had been made in her
rudder, she steered and worked so ill, that every time they got under
way they were apprehensive that she could never safely be brought to an
anchor again; I was therefore requested, in the name of the captain, to
consider that she could be of very little service to the expedition, and
to direct what I thought would be best for the service. I answered, that
as the Lords of the Admiralty had appointed her to accompany the
Dolphin, she must continue to do it as long as it was possible; that as
her condition rendered her a bad sailer, I would wait her time, and
attend her motions; and that if any disaster should happen to either of
us, the other should be ready to afford such assistance as might be in
her power.
We continued here eight days, during which time we completed our wood
and water, dried our sails, and sent great part of the ship's company on
shore, to wash their clothes and stretch their legs, which was the more
necessary, as the cold, snowy, and tempestuous weather had confined them
too much below. We caught mussels and limpets, and gathered celery and
nettles in great abundance. The mussels were the largest we had ever
seen, many of them being from five to six inches long: We caught also
great plenty of fine, firm, red fish, not unlike a gurnet, most of which
were from four to five pounds weight. At the same time we made it part
of the employment of every day to try the current, which we found
constantly setting to the eastward.
The master having been sent out to look for anchoring-places, returned
with an account that he could find no shelter, except near the shore,
where it should not be sought but in cases of the most pressing
necessity. He landed upon a large island on the north side of Snow
Sound, and being almost perished with cold, the first thing he did was
to make a large fire, with some small trees which he found upon the
spot. He then climbed one of the rocky mountains, with Mr Pickersgill, a
midshipman, and one of the seamen, to take a view of the streight, and
the dismal regions that surround it. He found the entrance of the sound
to be full as broad as several parts of the streight, and to grow but
very little narrower, for several miles inland on the Terra del Fuego
side. The country on the south of it was still more dreary and horrid
than any he had yet seen: It consisted of craggy mountains, much higher
than the clouds, that were altogether naked from the base to the summit,
there not being a single shrub, nor even a blade of grass to be seen
upon them; nor were the vallies between them less desolate, being
entirely covered with deep beds of snow, except here and there where it
had been washed away, or converted into ice, by the torrents which were
precipitated from the fissures and crags of the mountain above, where
the snow had been dissolved; and even these vallies, in the patches that
were free from snow, were as destitute of verdure as the rocks between
which they lay.
On Sunday the first of March, at half an hour after four o'clock in the
morning, we saw the Swallow under sail, on the north shore of Cape Quod.
At seven we weighed, and stood out of Butler's Bay, but it falling calm
soon afterwards, the boats were obliged to take the vessel in tow,
having with much difficulty kept clear of the rocks: The passage being
very narrow, we sent the boats, about noon, to seek for anchorage on the
north shore. At this time, Cape Notch bore W. by N. 1/2 N. distant
between three and four leagues, and Gape Quod E. 1/2 N. distant three
leagues.
About three o'clock in the afternoon, there being little wind, we
anchored, with the Swallow, under the north shore, in a small bay, where
there is a high, steep, rocky mountain, the top of which resembles the
head of a lion, for which reason we called the bay Lion's Cove. We had
here forty fathom, with deep water close to the shore, and at half a
cable's length without the ship, no ground. We sent the boats to the
westward in search of anchoring-places, and at midnight they returned
with an account that there was an indifferent bay at the distance of
about four miles, and that Goodluck Bay was three leagues to the
westward.
At half an hour after twelve the next day, the wind being northerly, we
made sail from Lion's Cove, and at five anchored in Goodluck Bay, at the
distance of about half-a-cable's length from the rocks, in twenty-eight
fathom water. A rocky island at the west extremity of the bay bore N.W.
by W. distant about a cable's length and a half, and a low point, which
makes the eastern extremity of the bay, bore E.S.E. distant about a
mile. Between this point and the ship, there were many shoals, and in
the bottom of the bay two rocks, the largest of which bore N.E. by N.
the smallest N. by E. From these rocks, shoals run out to the S.E. which
may be known by the weeds that are upon them; the ship was within a
cable's length of them: When she swung with her stern in shore, we had
sixteen fathom, with coral rock; when she swung off, we had fifty
fathom, with sandy ground. Cape Notch bore from us W. by S. 1/2 W.
distant about one league; and in the intermediate space there was a
large lagoon which we could not sound, the wind blowing too hard all the
while we lay here. After we had moored the ship, we sent two boats to
assist the Swallow, and one to look out for anchorage beyond Cape Notch.
The boats that were sent to assist the Swallow, towed her into a small
bay, where, as the wind was southerly, and blew fresh, she was in great
danger, for the cove was not only small, but full of rocks, and open to
the southeasterly winds.
All the day following and all the night, we had hard gales, with a great
sea, and much hail and rain. The next morning, we had gusts so violent,
that it was impossible to stand the deck; they brought whole sheets of
water all the way from Cape Notch, which was a league distant, quite
over the deck. They did not last more than a minute, but were so
frequent, that the cables were kept on a constant strain, and there was
the greatest reason to fear that they would give way. It was a general
opinion that the Swallow could not possibly ride it out, and some of the
men were so strongly prepossessed with the notion of her being lost,
that they fancied they saw some of her people coming over the rocks
towards our ship. The weather continued so bad, till Saturday the 7th,
that we could send no boat to enquire after her; but the gale being then
more moderate, a boat was dispatched about four o'clock in the morning,
which, about the same hour in the afternoon, returned with an account
that the ship was safe, but that the fatigue of the people had been
incredible, the whole crew having been upon the deck near three days and
three nights. At midnight the gusts returned, though not with equal
violence, with hail, sleet, and snow. The weather being now extremely
cold, and the people never dry, I got up, the next morning, eleven bales
of thick woollen stuff, called fearnought, which is provided by the
government, and set all the tailors to work to make them into jackets,
of which every man in the ship had one.
I ordered these jackets to be made very large, allowing, one with
another, two yards and thirty-four inches of the cloth to each jacket. I
sent also seven bales of the same cloth to the Swallow, which made every
man on board a jacket of the same kind; and I cut up three bales of
finer cloth, and made jackets for the officers of both ships, which I
had the pleasure to find were very acceptable.
In this situation we were obliged to continue a week, during which time,
I put both my own ship, and the Swallow, upon two-thirds allowance,
except brandy; but continued the breakfast as long as greens and water
were plenty.
On Sunday the 15th, about noon, we saw the Swallow under sail, and it
being calm, we sent our launch to assist her. In the evening the launch
returned, having towed her into a very good harbour on the south shore,
opposite to where we lay. The account that we received of this harbour,
determined us to get into it as soon as possible; the next morning
therefore, at eight o'clock, we sailed from Goodluck Bay, and thought
ourselves happy to get safe out of it. When we got a-breast of the
harbour where the Swallow lay, we fired several guns, as signals for her
boats to assist us in getting in; and in a short time the master came
on board us, and piloted us to a very commodious station, where we
anchored in twenty-eight fathom, with a muddy bottom. This harbour,
which is sheltered from all winds, and excellent in every respect, we
called _Swallow Harbour_. There are two channels into it, which are both
narrow, but not dangerous, as the rocks are easily discovered by the
weeds that grow upon them.
At nine o'clock the next morning, the wind coming easterly, we weighed,
and sailed from Swallow Harbour. At noon we took the Swallow in tow, but
at five, there being little wind, we cast off the tow. At eight in the
evening, the boats which had been sent out to look for anchorage,
returned with an account that they could find none: At nine we had fresh
gales, and at midnight Cape Upright bore S.S.W.1/2 W.
At seven, the next morning, we took the Swallow again in tow, but were
again obliged to cast her off and tack, as the weather became very
thick, with a great swell, and we saw land close under our lee. As no
place for anchorage could be found, Captain Carteret advised me to bear
away for Upright Bay, to which I consented; and as he was acquainted
with the place, he went a-head: The boats were ordered to go between him
and the shore, and we followed. At eleven o'clock, there being little
wind, we opened a large lagoon, and a current setting strongly into it,
the Swallow was driven among the breakers close upon the lee-shore: To
aggravate the misfortune, the weather was very hazy, there was no
anchorage, and the surf ran very high. In this dreadful situation she
made signals of distress, and we immediately sent our launch, and other
boats, to her assistance: The boats took her in tow, but their utmost
efforts to save her would have been ineffectual, if a breeze had not
suddenly came down from a mountain and wafted her off.
As a great swell came on about noon, we hauled over to the north shore.
We soon found ourselves surrounded with islands, but the fog was so
thick, that we knew not where we were, nor which way to steer. Among
these islands the boats were sent to cast the lead, but no anchorage was
to be found; we then conjectured that we were in the Bay of Islands, and
that we had no chance to escape shipwreck, but by hauling directly out:
This, however, was no easy task, for I was obliged to tack almost
continually, to weather some island or rock. At four o'clock in the
afternoon, it happily cleaned up for a minute, just to shew us Cape
Upright, for which we directly steered, and at half an hour after five
anchored, with the Swallow, in the bay. When we dropped the anchor, we
were in twenty-four fathom, and after we had veered away a whole cable,
in forty-six, with a muddy bottom. In this situation, a high bluff on
the north shore bore N.W. 1/2 N. distant five leagues, and a small
island within us S. by E. 1/2 E. Soon after we had anchored, the Swallow
drove to leeward, notwithstanding she had two anchors a-head, but was at
last brought up, in seventy fathom, about a cable's length a-stern of
us. At four o'clock in the morning I sent the boats, with a considerable
number of men, and some hawsers and anchors, on board her, to weigh her
anchors, and warp her up to windward. When her best-bower anchor was
weighed, it was found entangled with the small one; I therefore found it
necessary to send the stream-cable on board, and the ship was hung up by
it. To clear her anchors, and warp her into a proper birth, cost us the
whole day, and was not at last effected without the utmost difficulty
and labour.
On the 18th we had fresh breezes, and sent the boats to sound cross the
streight. Within half-a-mile of the ship, they had forty, forty-five,
fifty, seventy, one hundred fathom, and then had no ground, till within
a cable's length of the lee-shore, where they had ninety fathom. We now
moored the ship in seventy-eight fathom, with the stream-anchor.
The next morning, while our people were employed in getting wood and
water, and gathering celery and mussels, two canoes, full of Indians,
came alongside of the ship. They had much the same appearance as the
poor wretches whom we had seen before in Elizabeth's Bay. They had on
board some seal's flesh, blubber, and penguins, all which they eat raw.
Some of our people, who were fishing with a hook and line, gave one of
them a fish, somewhat bigger than a herring, alive, just as it came out
of the water. The Indian took it hastily, as a dog would take a bone,
and instantly killed it, by giving it a bite near the gills: He then
proceeded to eat it, beginning with the head, and going on to the tail,
without rejecting either the bones, fins, scales, or entrails. They eat
every thing that was given them, indifferently, whether salt or fresh,
dressed or raw, but would drink nothing but water. They shivered with
cold, yet had nothing to cover them but a seal-skin, thrown loosely over
their shoulders, which did not reach to their middle; and we observed,
that when they were rowing, they threw even this by, and sat stark
naked. They had with them some javelins, rudely pointed with bone, with
which they used to strike seals, fish, and penguins, and we observed
that one of them had a piece of iron, about the size of a common
chissel, which was fastened to a piece of wood, and seemed to be
intended rather for a tool than a weapon. They had all sore eyes, which
we imputed to their sitting over the smoke of their fires, and they
smelt more offensively than a fox, which perhaps was in part owing to
their diet, and in part to their nastiness. Their canoes were about
fifteen feet long, three broad, and nearly three deep: They were made of
the bark of trees, sewn together, either with the sinews of some beast,
or thongs cut out of a hide. Some kind of rush was laid into the seams,
and the outside was smeared with a resin or gum, which prevented the
water from soaking into the bark. Fifteen slender branches, bent into an
arch, were sewed transversely to the bottom and sides, and some straight
pieces were placed across the top, from gunwale to gunwale, and securely
lashed at each end: Upon the whole, however, it was poorly made, nor had
these people any thing among them in which there was the least
appearance of ingenuity. I gave them a hatchet or two, with some beads,
and a few other toys, with which they went away to the southward, and we
saw no more of them.
While we lay here, we sent out the boats, as usual, in search of
anchoring-places, and having been ten leagues to the westward, they
found but two: One was to the westward of Cape Upright, in the Bay of
Islands, but was very difficult to enter and get out of; the other was
called Dolphin Bay, at ten leagues distance, which was a good harbour,
with even ground in all parts. They saw several small coves, which were
all dangerous, as in them it would be necessary to let go the anchor
within half-a-cable's length of the lee-shore, and steady the ship with
hawsers fastened to the rocks. The people belonging to one of the boats
spent a night upon an island, upon which, while they were there, six
canoes landed about thirty Indians. The Indians ran immediately to the
boat, and were carrying away every thing they found in her: Our people
discovered what they were doing just time enough to prevent them. As
soon as they found themselves opposed they went to their canoes, and
armed themselves with long poles, and javelins pointed with the bones of
fish. They did not begin an attack, but stood in a threatening manner:
Our people, who were two-and-twenty in number, acted only on the
defensive, and by parting with a few trifles to them, they became
friends, and behaved peaceably the rest of the time they staid.
For many days we had hail, lightning, rain, and hard gales, with a heavy
sea, so that we thought it impossible for the ship to hold, though she
had two anchors a-head, and two cables an-end. The men, however, were
sent frequently on shore for exercise, which contributed greatly to
their health, and procured an almost constant supply of mussels and
greens. Among other damages that we had sustained, our fire-place was
broken to pieces; we therefore found it necessary to set up the forge,
and employ the armourers to make a new back; we also made lime of burnt
shells, and once more put it into a useful condition.
On Monday the 30th we had the first interval of moderate weather, and we
improved it in drying the sails, which, though much mildewed, we had not
before been able to loose, for fear of setting the ship adrift: We also
aired the spare sails, which we found much injured by the rats, and
employed the sail-makers to mend them. Captain Carteret having
represented that his fire-place, as well as ours, had been broken to
pieces, our armourers made him also a new back, and set it up with lime
that we made upon the spot, in the same manner as had been done on board
our own ship. This day we saw several canoes, full of Indians, put to
shore on the east side of the bay, and the next morning several of them
came on board, and proved to be the same that our people, who were out
in the boat, had met with on shore. They behaved very peaceably, and we
dismissed them with a few toys, as usual.
The day following, several other Indians came off to the ship, and
brought with them some of the birds called Race-Horses. Our people
purchased the birds for a few trifles, and I made them a present of
several hatchets and knives.
On Thursday, the 2d of April, the master of the Swallow, who had been
sent out to seek for anchoring-places, returned, and reported that he
had found three on the north shore, which were very good; one about four
miles to the eastward, of Cape Providence, another under the east-side
of Cape Tamar, and the third about four miles to the eastward of it; but
he said that he found no place to anchor under Cape Providence, the
ground being rocky.
This day two canoes came on board, with four men and three young
children in each. The men were somewhat more decently dressed than those
that we had seen before, but the children were stark naked. They were
somewhat fairer than the men, who seemed to pay a very tender attention
to them, especially in lifting them in and out of the canoes. To these
young visitors I gave necklaces and bracelets, with which they seemed
mightily pleased. It happened that while some of these people were on
board, and the rest waiting in their canoes by the ship's side, the boat
was sent on shore for wood and water. The Indians who were in the
canoes, kept their eyes fixed upon the boat while she was manning, and
the moment she put off from the ship, they called out with great
vociferation to those that were on board, who seemed to be much alarmed,
and hastily handing down the children, leaped into their canoes, without
uttering a word. None of us could guess at the cause of this sudden
emotion, but we saw the men in the canoes pull after the boat with all
their might, hallooing and shouting with great appearance of
perturbation and distress. The boat out-rowed them, and when she came
near the shore, the people on board discovered some women gathering
mussels among the rocks. This at once explained the mystery; the poor
Indians were afraid that the strangers, either by force or favour,
should violate the prerogative of a husband, of which they seemed to be
more jealous than the natives of some other countries, who in their
appearance are less savage and sordid. Our people, to make them easy,
immediately lay upon their oars, and suffered the canoes to pass them.
The Indians, however, still continued to call out to their women, till
they took the alarm and ran out of sight, and as soon as they got to
land, drew their canoes upon the beach, and followed them with the
utmost expedition.
We continued daily to gather mussels till the 5th, when several of the
people being seized with fluxes, the surgeon desired that no more
mussels might be brought into the ship.
The weather being still tempestuous and unsettled, we remained at anchor
till ten o'clock in the morning of Friday, the 10th, and then, in
company with the Swallow, we made sail. At noon, Cape Providence bore
N.N.W. distant four or five miles; at four in the afternoon Cape Tamar
bore N.W. by W. 1/2 W. distant three leagues, Cape Upright E.S.E. 1/2
S., distant three leagues, and Cape Pillar W. distant ten leagues. We
steered about W. 1/2 N. all night, and at six o'clock in the morning,
had run eight and thirty miles by the log. At this time Cape Pillar bore
S.W. distant half a mile, and the Swallow was about three miles a-stern
of us. At this time there being but little wind, we were obliged to make
all the sail we could, to get without the streight's mouth. At eleven
o'clock I would have shortened sail for the Swallow, but it was not in
my power, for as a current set us strongly down upon the Isles of
Direction, and the wind came to the west, it became absolutely necessary
for me to carry sail, that I might clear them. Soon after we lost sight
of the Swallow, and never saw her afterwards.[48] At first I was
inclined to have gone back into the streight; but a fog coming on, and
the sea rising very fast, we were all of opinion that it was
indispensably necessary to get an offing as soon as possible; for except
we pressed the ship with sail, before the sea rose too high, it would be
impracticable either to weather Terra del Fuego on one tack, or Cape
Victory on the other. At noon, the Islands of Direction bore N. 21' W.
distant three leagues, Saint Paul's cupola and Cape Victory in one, N.
distant seven leagues, and Cape Pillar E. distant six leagues. Our
latitude, by observation, was 52° 33', and we computed our longitude to
be 76° W. Thus we quitted a dreary and inhospitable region, where we
were in almost perpetual danger of shipwreck for near four months,
having entered the streight on the 17th of December 1766, and quitted it
on the 11th of April 1767; a region where, in the midst of summer, the
weather was cold, gloomy, and tempestuous, where the prospects had more
the appearance of a chaos than of nature, and where, for the most part,
the vallies were without herbage, and the hills without wood.
[Footnote 48: How very vexatious this was to the Swallow's crew, the
reader has to learn from the account of Carteret's voyage.--E.]
SECTION III.
_A particular Account of the Places in which we anchored during our
Passage through the Streight, and of the Shoals and Rocks that lie near
them._
Having cleared the streight, we steered a western course. But before I
continue the narrative of our voyage, I shall give a more particular
account of the several places where we anchored, plans of which are
deposited in the Admiralty-office for the use of future navigators, with
the shoals and rocks that lie near them, the latitude, longitude, tides,
and variation of the compass.
I. CAPE VIRGIN MARY. The bay under this cape is a good harbour, when the
wind is westerly. There is a shoal lying off the cape, but that may
easily be known by the rock-weed that grows upon it: The cape is a steep
white cliff, not unlike the South Foreland. Its latitude, by
observation, is 52° 24' S. and its longitude, by account, 68° 22' W. The
variation of the needle, by the medium of five azimuths and one
amplitude, was 24° 30' E. In this place we saw no appearance either of
wood or water. We anchored in ten fathom, with coarse sandy ground,
about a mile from the shore, Cape Virgin Mary bearing N. by. W. 1/2 W.
distant about two miles, and Dungeness Point S.S.W. distant four miles.
We anchored here on the 17th of December, and sailed the next day. There
is good landing, on a fine sandy beach, all along the shore.
II. POSSESSION BAY. In sailing into this bay, it is necessary to give
the point a good birth, because there is a reef that runs right off it
about a short mile. The soundings are very irregular all over the bay,
but the ground is every where a fine soft mud and clay, so that the
cables can come to no damage. The point lies in latitude 52° 23' S.
longitude, by account, 68° 57' W.: The variation is two points easterly.
In the bay the tide rises and falls between four and five fathom, and
runs at the rate of about a mile an hour; in the mid-channel without the
bay, it runs nearly three miles an hour. In this place we saw no
appearance either of wood or water. The landing appeared to be good, but
we did not go on shore. We anchored here on the 19th of December, and
sailed again on the 22d.
III. PORT FAMINE. At this place, the Spaniards, in the year 1581, built
a town, which they called Phillippeville, and left in it a colony,
consisting of 400 persons. When our celebrated navigator, Cavendish,
arrived here in 1587, he found one of these unhappy wretches, the only
one that remained, upon the beach: They had all perished for want of
subsistence, except twenty-four; twenty-three of these set out for the
river Plata, and were never afterwards heard of. This man, whose name
was Hernando, was brought to England by Cavendish, who called the place
where he had taken him up, Port Famine. It is a very fine bay, in which
there is room and conveniency for many ships to moor in great safety. We
moored in nine fathom, having brought Cape St Anne N.E. by E. and Sedger
River S. 1/2 W. which perhaps is the best situation, though the whole
bay is good ground. In this place there is very good wooding and
watering; we caught many fine small fish with a hook and line off the
ship's side, and hauled the seine with great success, in a fine sandy
bay, a little to the southward of Sedger River: We also shot a great
number of birds, of various kinds, particularly geese, ducks, teal,
snipes, plover, and race-horses, and we found wild celery in great
plenty. The latitude of this place is 53° 42' S., longitude, by
observation, 71° 28' W.: The variation is two points easterly. We
anchored here the 27th of December 1766, and sailed again the 18th of
January 1767.
IV. CAPE HOLLAND BAY. There is no danger in sailing into this bay, and
there is good anchoring ground in every part of it. We lay at about
three cables' length from the shore, in ten fathom, the ground coarse
sand and shells, Cape Holland bearing W.S.W. 1/2 W. distant three miles,
Cape Froward a little to the N. of the E. Right a-breast of the ship
there was a very fine rivulet, and close under Cape Holland a large
river, navigable for boats many miles: The shore also affords fire-wood
in great plenty. We found abundance of wild celery and cranberries,
mussels and limpets, but caught very little fish, either with hook and
line, or the seine. We killed some geese, ducks, teal, and racehorses,
but they were not plenty. This bay lies in latitude 53° 57' S.,
longitude, by account, 72° 34' W.; the variation is two points easterly.
The water rose about eight feet; we found, however, no regular tide, but
for the most part a strong current setting to the eastward. We anchored
here on the 19th of January, and sailed again on the 23d.
V. CAPE GALLANT BAY. In this bay, which may be entered with great
safety, there is a fine large lagoon, where a fleet of ships may moor in
perfect security. There is a depth of four fathom in every part of it,
with a soft muddy ground. In the bay, the best anchoring is on the east
side, where there is from six to ten fathom. Here is good watering from
two rivers, and plenty of wood. The lagoon abounded with wild fowl, and
we found wild celery, mussels, and limpets in plenty. We did not haul
the seine, having torn one to pieces, and the other being unpacked; but
if we had, there is reason to believe that we should have been well
supplied with fish. The landing is good. The latitude of the bay and
lagoon is 53° 50'S., longitude, by account, 73° 9' W.; the variation is
two points easterly. I observed the water to rise and fall about nine
feet, but the tide was very irregular. We anchored here the 23d of
January, and sailed again the 28th.
VI. ELIZABETH'S BAY. At the entrance of this bay there are two small
reefs, which appear above water. The most dangerous lies off the east
point of the bay; but this may easily be avoided, by keeping at the
distance of about two cables' length from the point. There is good
landing all round the bay, but it is much exposed to the westerly winds.
The best place for anchoring is Passage Point, at half a mile distance,
bearing S.E. and the river bearing N.E. by E. distant three cables'
length; in this situation, a bank or shoal, which may be known by the
weeds, bears W.N.W. distant a cable's length: The ground is coarse sand,
with shells. 'Sufficient wood is to be procured here for the use of
ships, and there is good watering at a small river. We found a little
celery and a few cranberries, but neither fish nor fowl. The latitude of
this place is 53° 43' S. the longitude, by account, 73° 24' W.; the
variation is two points easterly. We anchored here the 29th of January,
and sailed the 4th of February.
VII. YORK ROAD. The only danger of sailing into the bay, that is formed
by two points in this road, arises from a reef that runs off to about a
cable's length from the western point, which, once known, may be easily
avoided. To anchor in this bay, it is safest to bring York Point E.S.E.
Bachelor's River N. by W.1/2 W. the west point of the bay or reef
N.W.1/2 W. and St Jerom's Sound W.N.W. at the distance of half a mile
from the shore. There is good watering about a mile up Bachelor's River,
and good wooding all round the bay, where the landing also is, in all
parts, very good. We found plenty of celery, cranberries, mussels, and
limpets, many wild fowl, and some fish, but not enough to supply the
ship's company with a fresh meal. The latitude here is 53°39'S.,
longitude, by account, 73°52'W.; the variation two points easterly. The
water rises and falls about eight feet, but the tide is irregular. The
master, who crossed the streight many times to examine the bays,
frequently found the current setting in three different directions. We
anchored here on the 4th of February, and sailed again the 11th.
VIII. BUTLER'S BAY. This is a small bay, entirely surrounded by rocks,
so that no ship should anchor here if she can possibly avoid it. We
found, however, sufficient wood and water to keep up our stock, mussels
and limpets in plenty, some good rock fish, and a few wild fowl, but
celery and cranberries were very scarce. This bay lies in latitude 53°
37'S., longitude, by account, 74°9'W.; the variation is two points
easterly. The water rises and falls here about four feet, but the
current always sets to the eastward. We anchored here the 18th of
February, and sailed the 1st of March.
IX. LION COVE. This is a small bay, and surrounded by rocks. The water
is deep, but the ground is good. It is not a bad place for one ship, nor
a good one for two. Here is good watering up a small creek, but no wood.
There is good landing at the watering-place, but no where else. We found
no refreshment but a few mussels, limpets, and rock-fish, with a little
celery. The latitude is 53°26'S., longitude, by account, 74°25'W.; the
variation was two points easterly. The water, as far as we could judge
by the appearance of the rocks, rises and falls about five feet, and the
current sets at the rate of about two knots an hour. We anchored here on
the 2d of March, and sailed the next day.
X. GOOD-LUCK BAY. This is a small bay, and, like several others in this
streight, entirely surrounded by rocks. The ground is very coarse, and
the cable of our best-bower anchor was so much rubbed, that we were
obliged to condemn it, and bend a new one. At this place there is a
little wood, and plenty of good water, but the rocks render it very
difficult of access. No man that sees this part of the coast, can expect
to find any kind of refreshment upon it; and indeed we caught nothing
except a few rock-fish, with hook and line. There may be circumstances
in which it may be good luck to get into this bay, but we thought it
very good luck to get out of it. It lies in latitude 53°23'S.,
longitude, by account, 74°33'W.; the variation is two points easterly.
The water rises and falls between three and four feet, though, whenever
we had an opportunity of trying the current, we found it run easterly.
We anchored here the 3d of March, and sailed the 15th.
XI. SWALLOW HARBOUR. This harbour, when once entered, is very safe,
being sheltered from all winds, but the entrance is narrow and rocky;
the rocks, however, may be easily avoided by keeping a good look-out, as
there are large bunches of rock-weed upon them all. We found here a
sufficient supply of wood and water, the wood however was very small. As
the water is constantly smooth here, the landing is every where good;
but we found no supply of provisions, except a few mussels and
rock-fish. The mountains round it have the most horrid appearance, and
seem to be altogether deserted by every thing that has life. The
latitude is 53°29'S., the longitude, by account, 74°35'W.; the variation
is two points easterly, and the tide rises and falls between four and
five feet. We anchored here the 15th of March, and left the place the
next day.
XII. UPRIGHT BAY. This bay may be safely entered, as there is no
obstruction but what is above water. The wood here is very small, but we
found sufficient to keep up our stock. The water is excellent, and in
great plenty. As to provisions, we got only a few wild fowl, rock-fishes
and mussels. The landing is bad. The latitude of this place is 53° 8'S.,
longitude 75°35 W.; the variation two points easterly. The water rises
and falls about five feet, but the tide or current is very irregular. We
anchored here on the 18th of March, and sailed again on the 10th of
April.
There are three very good bays a little beyond Cape Shut-up, which we
called _River Bay, Lodging Bay_, and _Wallis's Bay_. Wallis's
Bay is the best.
About half way between Elizabeth's Bay and York Road, lies Mussel Bay,
where there is very good anchorage with a westerly wind. There is also a
bay, with good anchorage, opposite to York Road, and another to the
eastward of Cape Cross-tide, but this will hold only a single ship.
Between Cape Cross and Saint David's Head, lies Saint David's Sound, on
the south side of which we found a bank of coarse sand and shells, with
a depth of water from nineteen to thirty fathom, where a ship might
anchor in case of necessity; and the master of the Swallow found a very
good small bay a little to the eastward of Saint David's Head. A little
to the eastward of Cape Quod, lies Island Bay, where the Swallow lay
some time, but it is by no means an eligible situation. The ground of
Chance Bay is very rocky and uneven, and for that reason should be
avoided.
As all the violent gales by which we suffered in this navigation, blew
from the westward, it is proper to stand about a hundred leagues or more
to the westward, after sailing out of the streight, that the ship may
not be endangered on a lee-shore, which at present is wholly unknown.
The following table shews the courses and distances, from point to
point, in the streight of Magellan, by compass.[49]
[Footnote 49: Bougainville, in the account of his voyage, has given a
tolerably minute chart of the straight of Magellan, but the names do not
correspond with those used here, or by the English navigators in
general. Perhaps the fullest and most accurate chart of this very
intricate and unsafe passage ever published, is to be found in the
American Atlas of Jefferys, London, 1775. It is enlarged from one
published at Madrid in 1709, improved from the surveys and observations
of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, and compared with those of Bougainville.
Like all the works of Jefferys, the Arrowsmith of his day, it exhibits
most commendable diligence and attention to every source of information.
After all, however, it seems unlikely that this streight will ever
become well known to Europeans, the inducement to navigate it being
indeed very inconsiderable at any time, and the dangers it presents
always highly formidable.--E.]
_Courses and Distances from Point to Point, in the Streight of Magellan
by Compass._
Cape Virgin Mary lies in latitude 52°24'S., and longitude 68°22'W.
From Courses. Miles. Latitude, Long.
Cape Virgin Mary to Dungeness Point S.by W. 5 52°28' 68°28'
Dungeness Point to Point Possession W.3/4 S. 18 52 23 68 57
Point Possession to the S. side of
the 1st Narrows S.W.1/4 S. 27 52 35 69 38
The N. to the S. end of the Narrows S.S.W. 9 ---- ----
The S. end of the Narrows to Cape
Gregory W.S.W.1/4 W. 25 52 39 70 31
Cape Gregory to Sweepstakes Foreland S.30°W. 12-1/3 ---- ----
Cape Gregory to Dolphin's Foreland S.W.1/2 W. 14 52 43 70 53
Dolphin's Foreland to the N. end of
Elizabeth's Island S.1/2 W. 14-3/4 52 56 71 6
The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to
St Bartholomew's Island E.N.E. 1-1/2 52 56 71 4
The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to
St George's Island S.E. 8 ---- ----
The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to
Porpus Point S.byW. 12 53 6 71 17
Porpus Point to Fresh-water Bay S.1/2 E. 22-2/3 ---- ----
Fresh-water Bay to Cape St Ann, or
Port Famine S.S.E.1/4 E. 13-2/3 53 42 71 28
Cape St Ann to the entry of a great
sound on the south shore N.E. ---- ---- ----
Cape St Ann to Cape Shut-up S.byE. 12 53 54 71 32
Cape Shut-up to Dolphin's Island S.S.W. 7 53 59 71 41
Dolphin's Island to Cape Froward,
the southermost in all America S.47 W. 11 54 3 71 59
Cape Froward to Snug Bay Point W.1/2 N. 8 ---- ----
Snug, Bay Point to Cape Holland W.byS 13-2/3 53 57 72 34
Cape Holland to Cape Gallant W.1/4 S. 21-1/2 53 50 73 9
Cape Gallant to Elizabeth's Bay W.N.W.1/2 W 11-1/2 53 48 73 24
Elizabeth's Bay to York Point W.N.W.1/2 W. 6-1/3 53 39 73 32
York Road to Cape Cross-tide W.3/4 S. 10 ---- ----
York Road to Cape Quod W.1/2 S. 21 53 33 74 6
Cape Quod to St David's Head S.E. 4-1/2 ---- ----
Cape Quod to Butler's Bay S.1/4 W. 4 53 37 74 9
Cape Quod to Chance Bay S.S.W. 5 ---- ----
Cape Quod to Great Mussel Bay S.W.1/2 S. 6 ---- ----
Cape Quod to Snow Sound W.S.W.1/2 W. 10 ---- ----
Cape Quod to Lion's Cove W.N.W.3/4 W. 12 53 26 74 25
Lion's Cove to Good-Luck Bay W.N.W.3/4 W. 6 53 23 74 33
Cape Quod to Cape Notch W.N.W.3/4 W. 21 53 22 74 36
Cape Notch to Swallow Harbour S.S.E. 7 53 29 74 36
Cape Notch to Piss-pot Bay W.1/4 S. 23 ---- ----
Cape Notch to Cape Monday W. 28 53 12 75 26
Cape Monday to Cape Upright W.byN. 13 53° 6' 75° 38'
Cape Monday to a great Sound on
the N. shore N. 7 ---- ----
Cape Upright to Cape Providence N.byW.1/2 W. 9 52 57 75 37
Cape Upright to Cape Tamar N.W.byW.1/2 W 18 ---- ----
Cape Upright to Cape Pillar W.1/2 N. 50 52 43 76 52
Cape Pillar to Westminster Island N.E.1/2 N. 15 ---- ----
Cape Pillar to Cape Victory N.W.1/2 N. 28 ---- ----
Cape Pillar to the Islands of W.N.W. 23 52 27 77 19
Direction
SECTION IV.
_The Passage from the Streight of Magellan to King George the Third's
Island, called Otaheite, in the South Sea, with an Account of the
Discovery of several other Islands, and a Description of their
Inhabitants._
As we continued our course to the westward, after having cleared the
streight, we saw a great number of gannets, sheerwaters, pintado birds,
and many others, about the ship, and had for the most part strong gales,
hazy weather, and heavy seas, so that we were frequently brought under
our courses, and there was not a dry place in the ship for some weeks
together.
At eight in the morning of the 22d, we had an observation, by which we
found our longitude to be 95°46'W. and at noon our latitude was 42°24'S.
and the variation, by azimuth, 11°6'E.
By the 24th, the men began to fall down very fast in colds and fevers,
in consequence of the upper works being open, and their clothes and beds
continually wet.
On the 26th, at four in the afternoon, the variation, by azimuth, was
10°20'E. and at six in the morning of the next day, it was 9°8'E. Our
latitude, on the 27th at noon, was 36°54'S. our longitude, by account,
100°W. This day, the weather being moderate and fair, we dried all the
people's clothes, and got the sick upon deck, to whom we gave salop, and
wheat boiled with, portable soup, every morning for breakfast, and all
the ship's company had as much vinegar and mustard as they could use;
portable soup was also constantly boiled in their pease and oatmeal.
The hard gales, with frequent and violent squalls, and a heavy sea soon
returned, and continued with very little intermission. The ship pitched
so much, that we were afraid she would carry away her masts, and the men
were again wet in their beds.
On the 30th, the variation, by azimuth, was 8°30'E. our latitude was
32°50; longitude, by account, 100 W. I began now to keep the ship to the
northward, as we had no chance of getting westing in this latitude; and
the surgeon was of opinion, that in a little time the sick would so much
increase, that we should want hands to work the ship, if we could not
get into better weather.
On the third of May, about four in the afternoon, we had an observation
of the sun and moon, by which we found our longitude to be 96°26 W. the
variation by the azimuth was 5°44'E. at six in the evening, and at six
the next morning, it was 5°58'E, Our latitude, this day at noon, was
28°20'S. At four in the afternoon, we had several observations for the
longitude, and found it to be 96°21' W.; at seven in the evening, the
variation was 6°40'E. by the azimuth, and the next morning at ten it
was, by amplitude, 5°48'E.; at three in the afternoon, the variation, by
amplitude, was 7°40'E. This day we saw a tropic bird.