To Wm. Still:--Our friends in Cincinnati have failed finding anybody to
assist me on my return. Searching the country opposite Paducah, I find
that the whole country fifty miles round is inhabited only by Christian
wolves. It is customary, when a strange negro is seen, for any white man
to seize the negro and convey such negro through and out of the State of
Illinois to Paducah, Ky., and lodge such stranger in Paducah jail, and
there claim such reward as may be offered by the master.
There is no regularity by the steamboats on the Tennessee River. I was
four days getting to Florence from Paducah. Sometimes they are four days
starting, from the time appointed, which alone puts to rest the plan for
returning by steamboat. The distance from the mouth of the river to
Florence, is from between three hundred and five to three hundred and
forty-five miles by the river; by land, two hundred and fifty, or more.
I arrived at the shoe shop on the plantation, one o'clock, Tuesday,
28th. William and two boys were making shoes. I immediately gave the
first signal, anxiously waiting thirty minutes for an opportunity to
give the second and main signal, during which time I was very sociable.
It was rainy and muddy--my pants were rolled up to the knees. I was in
the character of a man seeking employment in this country. End of thirty
minutes gave the second signal.
William appeared unmoved; soon sent out the boys; instantly sociable;
Peter and Levin at the Island; one of the young masters with them; not
safe to undertake to see them till Saturday night, when they would be at
home; appointed a place to see Vina, in an open field, that night; they
to bring me something to eat; our interview only four minutes; I left;
appeared by night; dark and cloudy; at ten o'clock appeared William;
exchanged signals; led me a few rods to where stood Vina; gave her the
signal sent by Peter; our interview ten minutes; she did not call me
"master," nor did she say "sir," by which I knew she had confidence in
me.
Our situation being dangerous, we decided that I meet Peter and Levin on
the bank of the river early dawn of day, Sunday, to establish the laws.
During our interview, William prostrated on his knees, and face to the
ground; arms sprawling; head cocked back, watching for wolves, by which
position a man can see better in the dark. No house to go to safely,
traveled round till morning, eating hoe cake which William had given me
for supper; next day going around to get employment. I thought of
William, who is a Christian preacher, and of the Christian preachers in
Pennsylvania. One watching for wolves by night, to rescue Vina and her
three children from Christian licentiousness; the other standing erect
in open day, seeking the praise of men.
During the four days waiting for the important Sunday morning, I
thoroughly surveyed the rocks and shoals of the river from Florence
seven miles up, where will be my place of departure. General notice was
taken of me as being a stranger, lurking around. Fortunately there are
several small grist mills within ten miles around. No taverns here, as
in the North; any planter's house entertains travelers occasionally.
One night I stayed at a medical gentleman's, who is not a large planter;
another night at an ex-magistrate's house in South Florence--a Virginian
by birth--one of the late census takers; told me that many more persons
cannot read and write than is reported; one fact, amongst many others,
that many persons who do not know the letters of the alphabet, have
learned to write their own names; such are generally reported readers
and writers.
It being customary for a stranger not to leave the house early in the
morning where he has lodged, I was under the necessity of staying out
all night Saturday, to be able to meet Peter and Levin, which was
accomplished in due time. When we approached, I gave my signal first;
immediately they gave theirs. I talked freely. Levin's voice, at first,
evidently trembled. No wonder, for my presence universally attracted
attention by the lords of the land. Our interview was less than one
hour; the laws were written. I to go to Cincinnati to get a rowing boat
and provisions; a first class clipper boat to go with speed. To depart
from the place where the laws were written, on Saturday night of the
first of March. I to meet one of them at the same place Thursday night,
previous to the fourth Saturday from the night previous to the Sunday
when the laws were written. We to go down the Tennessee river to some
place up the Ohio, not yet decided on, in our row boat. Peter and Levin
are good oarsmen. So am I. Telegraph station at Tuscumbia, twelve miles
from the plantation, also at Paducah.
Came from Florence to here Sunday night by steamboat. Eastport is in
Mississippi. Waiting here for a steamboat to go down; paying one dollar
a day for board. Like other taverns here, the wretchedness is
indescribable; no pen, ink, paper or newspaper to be had; only one room
for everybody, except the gambling rooms. It is difficult for me to
write. Vina intends to get a pass for Catharine and herself for the
first Sunday in March.
The bank of the river where I met Peter and Levin is two miles from the
plantation. I have avoided saying I am from Philadelphia. Also avoided
talking about negroes. I never talked so much about milling before. I
consider most of the trouble over, till I arrive in a free State with my
crew, the first week in March; then will I have to be wiser than
Christian serpents, and more cautious than doves. I do not consider it
safe to keep this letter in my possession, yet I dare not put it in the
post-office here; there is so little business in these post-offices that
notice might be taken.
I am evidently watched; everybody knows me to be a miller. I may write
again when I get to Cincinnati, if I should have time. The
ex-magistrate, with whom I stayed in South Florence, held three hours'
talk with me, exclusive of our morning talk. Is a man of good general
information; he was exceedingly inquisitive. "I am from Cincinnati,
formerly from the _State of New York_." I had no opportunity to get
anything to eat from seven o'clock Tuesday morning till six o'clock
Wednesday evening, except the hoe cake, and no sleep.
Florence is the head of navigation for small steamboats. Seven miles,
all the way up to my place of departure, is swift water, and rocky.
Eight hundred miles to Cincinnati. I found all things here as Peter told
me, except the distance of the river. South Florence contains twenty
white families, three warehouses of considerable business, a
post-office, but no school. McKiernon is here waiting for a steamboat to
go to New Orleans, so we are in company.