From Ulinish, our next stage was to Talisker, the house of colonel
Macleod, an officer in the Dutch service, who, in this time of universal
peace, has for several years been permitted to be absent from his
regiment. Having been bred to physick, he is consequently a scholar, and
his lady, by accompanying him in his different places of residence, is
become skilful in several languages. Talisker is the place beyond all
that I have seen, from which the gay and the jovial seem utterly
excluded; and where the hermit might expect to grow old in meditation,
without possibility of disturbance or interruption. It is situated very
near the sea, but upon a coast where no vessel lands but when it is
driven by a tempest on the rocks. Towards the land are lofty hills
streaming with waterfalls. The garden is sheltered by firs or pines,
which grow there so prosperously, that some, which the present inhabitant
planted, are very high and thick.
At this place we very happily met Mr. Donald Maclean, a young gentleman,
the eldest son of the Laird of Col, heir to a very great extent of land,
and so desirous of improving his inheritance, that he spent a
considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordshire, and Hampshire, to
learn their practice. He worked with his own hands at the principal
operations of agriculture, that he might not deceive himself by a false
opinion of skill, which, if he should find it deficient at home, he had
no means of completing. If the world has agreed to praise the travels
and manual labours of the Czar of Muscovy, let Col have his share of the
like applause, in the proportion of his dominions to the empire of
Russia.
This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky, and when he
was weary with following his game, repaired for lodging to Talisker. At
night he missed one of his dogs, and when he went to seek him in the
morning, found two eagles feeding on his carcass.
Col, for he must be named by his possessions, hearing that our intention
was to visit Jona, offered to conduct us to his chief, Sir Allan Maclean,
who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth, and would readily find us a
convenient passage. From this time was formed an acquaintance, which
being begun by kindness, was accidentally continued by constraint; we
derived much pleasure from it, and I hope have given him no reason to
repent it.
The weather was now almost one continued storm, and we were to snatch
some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull, the third Island of the
Hebrides, lying about a degree south of Sky, whence we might easily find
our way to Inch Kenneth, where Sir Allan Maclean resided, and afterward
to Jona.
For this purpose, the most commodious station that we could take was
Armidel, which Sir Alexander Macdonald had now left to a gentleman, who
lived there as his factor or steward.
In our way to Armidel was Coriatachan, where we had already been, and to
which therefore we were very willing to return. We staid however so long
at Talisker, that a great part of our journey was performed in the gloom
of the evening. In travelling even thus almost without light thro' naked
solitude, when there is a guide whose conduct may be trusted, a mind not
naturally too much disposed to fear, may preserve some degree of
cheerfulness; but what must be the solicitude of him who should be
wandering, among the craggs and hollows, benighted, ignorant, and alone?
The fictions of the Gothick romances were not so remote from credibility
as they are now thought. In the full prevalence of the feudal
institution, when violence desolated the world, and every baron lived in
a fortress, forests and castles were regularly succeeded by each other,
and the adventurer might very suddenly pass from the gloom of woods, or
the ruggedness of moors, to seats of plenty, gaiety, and magnificence.
Whatever is imaged in the wildest tale, if giants, dragons, and
enchantment be excepted, would be felt by him, who, wandering in the
mountains without a guide, or upon the sea without a pilot, should be
carried amidst his terror and uncertainty, to the hospitality and
elegance of Raasay or Dunvegan.
To Coriatachan at last we came, and found ourselves welcomed as before.
Here we staid two days, and made such inquiries as curiosity suggested.
The house was filled with company, among whom Mr. Macpherson and his
sister distinguished themselves by their politeness and accomplishments.
By him we were invited to Ostig, a house not far from Armidel, where we
might easily hear of a boat, when the weather would suffer us to leave
the Island.