We went forwards the same day to Fores, the town to which Macbeth was
travelling, when he met the weird sisters in his way. This to an
Englishman is classic ground. Our imaginations were heated, and our
thoughts recalled to their old amusements.
We had now a prelude to the Highlands. We began to leave fertility and
culture behind us, and saw for a great length of road nothing but heath;
yet at Fochabars, a seat belonging to the duke of Gordon, there is an
orchard, which in Scotland I had never seen before, with some timber
trees, and a plantation of oaks.
At Fores we found good accommodation, but nothing worthy of particular
remark, and next morning entered upon the road, on which Macbeth heard
the fatal prediction; but we travelled on not interrupted by promises of
kingdoms, and came to Nairn, a royal burgh, which, if once it flourished,
is now in a state of miserable decay; but I know not whether its chief
annual magistrate has not still the title of Lord Provost.
At Nairn we may fix the verge of the Highlands; for here I first saw peat
fires, and first heard the Erse language. We had no motive to stay
longer than to breakfast, and went forward to the house of Mr. Macaulay,
the minister who published an account of St. Kilda, and by his direction
visited Calder Castle, from which Macbeth drew his second title. It has
been formerly a place of strength. The drawbridge is still to be seen,
but the moat is now dry. The tower is very ancient: Its walls are of
great thickness, arched on the top with stone, and surrounded with
battlements. The rest of the house is later, though far from modern.
We were favoured by a gentleman, who lives in the castle, with a letter
to one of the officers at Fort George, which being the most regular
fortification in the island, well deserves the notice of a traveller, who
has never travelled before. We went thither next day, found a very kind
reception, were led round the works by a gentleman, who explained the use
of every part, and entertained by Sir Eyre Coote, the governour, with
such elegance of conversation as left us no attention to the delicacies
of his table.
Of Fort George I shall not attempt to give any account. I cannot
delineate it scientifically, and a loose and popular description is of
use only when the imagination is to be amused. There was every where an
appearance of the utmost neatness and regularity. But my suffrage is of
little value, because this and Fort Augustus are the only garrisons that
I ever saw.
We did not regret the time spent at the fort, though in consequence of
our delay we came somewhat late to Inverness, the town which may properly
be called the capital of the Highlands. Hither the inhabitants of the
inland parts come to be supplied with what they cannot make for
themselves: Hither the young nymphs of the mountains and valleys are sent
for education, and as far as my observation has reached, are not sent in
vain.