Riot in the camp. Mohamad's account of his long imprisonment.
Superstitions about children's teeth. Concerning dreams. News of
Lake Chowambé. Life of the Arab slavers. The Katanga gold
supply. Muabo. Ascent of the Rua Mountains. Syde bin Habib.
Birthday 19th March, 1868. Hostility of Mpwéto. Contemplates
visiting Lake Bemba. Nile sources. Men desert. The shores of
Moero. Visits Fungafunga. Beturn to Casembe's. Obstructiveness
of "Cropped-ears." Accounts of Pereira and Dr. Lacerda. Major
Monteiro. The line of Casembe's. Casembe explains the connection
of the Lakes and the Luapula. Queen Moäri. Arab sacrifice.
Kapika gets rid of his wife.
_24th February, 1868._--Some slaves who came with Mohamad Bogharib's
agent, abused my men this morning, as bringing unclean meat into the
village to sell, though it had been killed by a man of the Wanyamwesi.
They called out, "Kaffir, Kaffir!" and Susi, roused by this, launched
forth with a stick; the others joined in the row, and the offenders
were beat off, but they went and collected all their number and
renewed the assault. One threw a heavy block of wood and struck Simon
on the head, making him quite insensible and convulsed for some time.
He has three wounds on the head, which may prove serious. This is the
first outburst of Mohamadan bigotry we have met, and by those who know
so little of the creed that it is questionable if one of them can
repeat the formula: "La illaha illa lahu Mohamad Rasulela salla lahu,
a leihi oa Salama." Simon recovered, but Gallahs are in general not
strong.
_25th February, 1868._--Mohamad called on me this morning to apologise
for the outrage of yesterday, but no one was to blame except the
slaves, and I wanted no punishment inflicted if they were cautioned
for the future. It seems, plain that if they do not wish to buy the
unclean meat they can let it alone,--no harm is done. The Wanyamwesi
kill for all, and some Mohamadans say that they won't eat of it, but
their wives and people do eat it privately.
I asked Mohamad to-day if it were true that he was a prisoner at
Casembe's. He replied, "Quite so." Some Garaganza people, now at
Katanga, fought with Casembe, and Mohamad was suspected of being
connected with them. Casembe attacked his people, and during the
turmoil a hundred frasilahs of copper were stolen from him, and many
of his people killed. Casembe kept him a prisoner till sixty of his
people were either killed or died, among these Mohamad's eldest son:
he was thus reduced to poverty. He gave something to Casembe to allow
him to depart, and I suspect that my Sultan's letter had considerable
influence in inducing Casembe to accede to his request, for he
repeated again and again in my hearing that he must pay respect to my
letter, and see me safe at least as far as Ujiji. Mohamad says that he
will not return to Casembe again, but will begin to trade with some
other chief: it is rather hard for a man at his age to begin _de
novo_. He is respected among the Arabs, who pronounce him to be a good
man. He says that he has been twenty-two years in Africa, and never
saw an outburst like that of yesterday among the Wanyamwesi: it is,
however, common for the people at Ujiji to drink palm toddy, and then
have a general row in the bazaar, but no bad feeling exists next day.
If a child cuts the upper front teeth before the lower, it is killed,
as unlucky: this is a widely-spread superstition. When I was amongst
the Makololo in 1859 one of Sekelétu's wives would not allow her
servant's child to be killed for this, but few would have the courage
to act in opposition to public feeling as she did. In Casembe's
country if a child is seen to turn from one side to the other in
sleep it is killed. They say of any child who has what they consider
these defects "he is an Arab child," because the Arabs have none of
this class of superstitions, and should any Arab be near they give the
child to him: it would bring ill-luck, misfortunes, "milando," or
guilt, to the family. These superstitions may account for the
readiness with which one tribe parted with their children to Speke's
followers. Mohamad says that these children must have been taken in
war, as none sell their own offspring.
If Casembe dreams of any man twice or three times he puts the man to
death, as one who is practising secret arts against his life: if any
one is pounding or cooking food for him he must preserve the strictest
silence; these and other things show extreme superstition and
degradation.
During, his enforced detention Mohamad's friends advised him to leave
Casembe by force, offering to aid him with their men, but he always
refused. His father was the first to open this country to trade with
the Arabs, and all his expenses while so doing were borne by himself;
but Mohamad seems to be a man of peace, and unwilling to break the
appearance of friendship with the chiefs. He thinks that this Casembe
poisoned his predecessor: he certainly killed his wife's mother, a
queen, that she might be no obstacle to him in securing her daughter.
We are waiting in company with a number of Wanyamwesi for the
cessation of the rains, which have flooded the country between this
and Tanganyika. If there were much slope this water would flow off:
this makes me suspect that Tanganyika is not so low as Speke's
measurement. The Arabs are positive that water flows from that Lake to
the Victoria Nyanza, and assert that Dagara, the father of Rumanyika,
was anxious to send canoes from his place to Ujiji, or, as some say,
to dig a canal to Ujiji. The Wanyamwesi here support themselves by
shooting buffaloes, at a place two days distant, and selling the meat
for grain and cassava: no sooner is it known that an animal is killed,
than the village women crowd in here, carrying their produce to
exchange it for meat, which they prefer to beads or anything else.
Their farinaceous food creates a great craving for flesh: were my
shoes not done I would go in for buffaloes too.
A man from the upper part of Tanganyika gives the same account of the
river from Rusisi that Burton and Speke received when they went to its
mouth. He says that the water of the Lake goes up some distance, but
is met by Rusisi water, and driven back thereby. The Lake water, he
adds, finds an exit northwards and eastwards by several small rivers
which would admit small canoes only. They pour into Lake
Chowambé--probably that discovered by Mr. Baker. This Chowambé is in
Hundi, the country of cannibals, but the most enlightened informants
leave the impression on the mind of groping in the dark: it may be all
different when we come to see it.
The fruit of the palm, which yields palm-oil, is first of all boiled,
then pounded in a mortar, then put into hot or boiling water, and the
oil skimmed off. The palm-oil is said to be very abundant at Ujiji, as
much as 300 gallons being often brought into the bazaar for sale in
one morning; the people buy it eagerly for cooking purposes. Mohamad
says that the Island of Pemba, near Zanzibar, contains many of these
palms, but the people are ignorant of the mode of separating the oil
from the nut: they call the palm Nkoma at Casembe's, and Chikichi at
Zanzibar.[60]
No better authority for what has been done or left undone by
Mohamadans in this country can be found than Mohamad bin Saleh, for he
is very intelligent, and takes an interest in all that happens, and
his father was equally interested in this country's affairs. He
declares that no attempt was ever made by Mohamadans to proselytize
the Africans: they teach their own children to read the Koran, but
them only; it is never translated, and to servants who go to the
Mosque it is all dumb show. Some servants imbibe Mohamadan bigotry
about eating, but they offer no prayers. Circumcision, to make
_halel_, or fit to slaughter the animals for their master, is the
utmost advance any have made. As the Arabs in East Africa never feel
themselves called on to propagate the doctrines of Islam, among the
heathen Africans, the statement of Captain Burton that they would make
better missionaries to the Africans than Christians, because they
would not insist on the abandonment of polygamy, possesses the same
force as if he had said Mohamadans would catch more birds than
Christians, because they would put salt on their tails. The
indispensable requisite or qualification for any kind of missionary is
that he have some wish to proselytize: this the Arabs do not possess
in the slightest degree.
As they never translate the Koran, they neglect the best means of
influencing the Africans, who invariably wish to understand what they
are about. When we were teaching adults the alphabet, they felt it a
hard task. "Give me medicine, I shall drink it to make me understand
it," was their earnest entreaty. When they have advanced so far as to
form clear conceptions of Old Testament and Gospel histories, they
tell them to their neighbours; and, on visiting distant tribes, feel
proud to show how much they know: in this way the knowledge of
Christianity becomes widely diffused. Those whose hatred to its
self-denying doctrines has become developed by knowledge, propagate
slanders; but still they speak of Christianity, and awaken attention.
The plan, therefore, of the Christian missionary in imparting
knowledge is immeasurably superior to that of the Moslem in dealing
with dumb show. I have, however, been astonished to see that none of
the Africans imitate the Arab prayers: considering their great
reverence of the Deity, it is a wonder that they do not learn to
address prayers to Him except on very extraordinary occasions.
My remarks referring to the education by Mohamadans do not refer to
the Suahelis, for they teach their children to read, and even send
them to school. They are the descendants of Arab and African women and
inhabit the coast line. Although they read, they understand very
little Arabic beyond the few words which have been incorporated into
Suaheli. The establishment of Moslem missions among the heathen is
utterly unknown, and this is remarkable, because the Wanyamwesi, for
instance, are very friendly with the Arabs--are great traders, too,
like them, and are constantly employed as porters and native traders,
being considered very trustworthy. They even acknowledge Seyed Majid's
authority. The Arabs speak of all the Africans as _"Gumu_" that is
hard or callous to the Mohamadan religion.
Some believe that Kilimanjaro Mountain has mummies, as in Egypt, and
that Moses visited it of old.
Mungo Park mentions that he found the Africans in the far interior of
the west in possession of the stories of Joseph and his brethren, and
others. They probably got them from the Koran, as verbally explained
by some liberal Mullah, and showed how naturally they spread any new
ideas they obtained: they were astonished to find that Park knew the
stories.
The people at Katanga are afraid to dig for the gold in their country
because they believe that it has been hidden where it is by "Ngolu,"
who is the owner of it. The Arabs translate Ngolu by Satan: it means
Mézimo, or departed spirits, too. The people are all oppressed by
their superstitions; the fear of death is remarkably strong. The
Wagtails are never molested, because, if they were killed, death
would visit the village; this too is the case with the small Whydah
birds, the fear of death in the minds of the people saves them from
molestation. But why should we be so prone to criticise? A remnant of
our own superstitions is seen in the prejudice against sitting down
thirteen to dinner, spilling the salt, and not throwing a little of it
over the left shoulder. Ferdinand I., the King of Naples, in passing
through the streets, perpetually put one hand into his pockets to
cross the thumb over the finger in order to avert the influence of the
evil eye!
On the 6th, Muabo, the great chief of these parts, came to call on
Mohamad: several men got up and made some antics before him, then
knelt down and did obeisance, then Muabo himself jumped about a
little, and all applauded. He is a good-natured-looking man, fond of a
joke, and always ready with a good-humoured smile: he was praised very
highly, Mpwéto was nothing to Muabo mokolu, the great Muabo; and he
returned the praise by lauding Tipo Tipo and Mpamari, Mohamad's native
name, which means, "Give me wealth, or goods." Mohamad made a few of
the ungainly antics like the natives, and all were highly pleased, and
went off rejoicing.
Some Arabs believe that a serpent on one of the islands in the Nyanza
Lake has the power of speaking, and is the same that beguiled Eve. It
is a crime at Ujiji to kill a serpent, even though it enters a house
and kills a kid! The native name, for the people of Ujiji is Wayeiyé,
the very same as the people on the Zouga, near Lake Ngami. They are
probably an offshoot from Ujiji.[61]
There are underground stone houses in Kabiuré, in the range called
Kakoma, which is near to our place of detention. _15th March,
1868._--The roots of the Nyumbo or Noombo open in four or five months
from the time of planting, those planted by me on the 6th February
have now stalks fifteen inches long. The root is reported to be a very
wholesome food, never disagreeing with the stomach; and the raw root
is an excellent remedy in obstinate vomiting and nausea; four or five
tubers are often given by one root, in Marungu they attain a size of
six inches in length by two in diameter.
_16th March, 1868._--We started for Mpwéto's village, which is
situated on the Lualaba, and in our course crossed the Lokinda, which
had a hundred yards of flood water on each side of it. The river
itself is forty yards wide, with a rude bridge over it, as it flows
fast away into Moero.
Next day we ascended the Rua Mountains, and reached the village of
Mpwéto, situated in a valley between two ridges, about one mile from
the right bank of the Lualaba, where it comes through the mountains.
It then flows about two miles along the base of a mountain lying east
and west before it begins to make northing: its course is reported to
be very winding, this seems additional evidence that Tanganyika is not
in a depression of only 1844 feet above the sea, otherwise the water
of Lualaba would flow faster and make a straighter channel. It is said
to flow into the Lufira, and that into Tanganyika.
_18th March, 1868._--On reaching Mpwéto's yesterday we were taken up
to the house of Syde bin Habib, which is built on a ridge overhanging
the chiefs village, a square building of wattle and plaster, and a mud
roof to prevent it being fired by an enemy. It is a very pretty spot
among the mountains. Sariama is Bin Habib's agent, and he gave us a
basket of flour and leg of kid. I sent a message to Mpwéto, which he
politely answered by saying that he had no food ready in his village,
but if we waited two days he would have some prepared, and would then
see us. He knew what we should give him, and he need not tell us I
met a man from Seskéké, left sick at Kirwa by Bin Habib and now with
him here.
A very beautiful young woman came to look at us, perfect in every way,
and nearly naked, but unconscious of indecency; a very Venus in black.
The light-grey, red-tailed parrot seen on the West Coast is common in
Rua, and tamed by the natives.[62]
_19th March, 1868._[63]--(Grant, Lord, grace to love Thee more and
serve Thee better.)
The favourite son of Mpwéto called on us; his father is said to do
nothing without consulting him; but he did not seem to be endowed with
much wisdom.
_20th and 21st March, 1868._--Our interview was put off; and then a
sight of the cloth we were to give was required. I sent a good large
cloth, and explained that we were nearly out of goods now, having been
travelling two years, and were going to Ujiji to get more. Mpwéto had
prepared a quantity of pombe, a basket of meal, and a goat; and when
he looked at them and the cloth, he seemed to feel that it would be a
poor bargain, so he sent to say that we had gone to Casembe and given
him many cloths, and then to Muabo, and if I did not give another
cloth he would not see me. "He had never slept with only one cloth."
"I had put medicine on this one to kill him, and must go away."
It seems he was offended because we went to his great rival, Muabo,
before visiting him. He would not see Syde bin Habib for eight days;
and during that time was using charms to try if it would be safe to
see him at all: on the ninth day he peeped past a door for some time
to see if Bin Habib were a proper person, and then came out: he is
always very suspicious.
At last he sent an order to us to go away, and if we did not move, he
would come with all his people and drive us off. Sariamo said if he
were not afraid for Syde bin Habib's goods, he would make a stand
against Mpwéto; but I had no wish to stay or to quarrel with a
worthless chief, and resolved to go next day. (_24th March._) He
abused a native trader with his tongue for coming to trade, and sent
him away too. We slept again at our half-way village, Kapemba, just as
a party of salt-traders from Rua came into it: they were tall,
well-made men, and rather dark.
_25th March, 1868._--Reached Kabwabwata at noon, and were welcomed by
Mohamad and all the people. His son, Sheikh But, accompanied us; but
Mohamad told us previously that it was likely Mpwéto would refuse to
see us.
The water is reported to be so deep in front that it is impossible to
go north: the Wanyamwesi, who are detained here as well as we, say it
is often more than a man's depth, and there are no canoes. They would
not stop here if a passage home could be made. I am thinking of going
to Lake Bemba, because at least two months must be passed here still
before a passage can be made; but my goods are getting done, and I
cannot give presents to the chiefs on our way.
This Lake has a sandy, not muddy bottom, as we were at first informed,
and there are four islands in it, one, the Bangweolo, is very large,
and many people live on it; they have goats and sheep in abundance:
the owners of canoes demand three hoes for the hire of one capable of
carrying eight or ten persons; beyond this island it is sea horizon
only. The tsébula and nzoé antelopes abound. The people desire salt
and not beads for sale.
_2nd April, 1868._--If I am not deceived by the information I have
received from various reliable sources, the springs of the Nile rise
between 9° and 10° south latitude, or at least 400 or 500 miles south
of the south end of Speke's Lake, which he considered to be the
sources of the Nile. Tanganyika is declared to send its water through
north into Lake Chowambé or Baker's Lake; if this does not prove
false, then Tanganyika is an expansion of the Nile, and so is Lake
Chowambé; the two Lakes being connected by the River Loanda.
Unfortunately the people on the east side of the Loanda are constantly
at war with the people on the west of it, or those of Rusisi. The
Arabs have been talking of opening up a path through to Chowambé,
where much ivory is reported; I hope that the Most High may give me a
way there.
_11th April, 1868._--I had a long oration from Mohamad yesterday
against going off for Bemba to-morrow. His great argument is the
extortionate way of Casembe, who would demand cloth, and say that in
pretending to go to Ujiji I had told him lies: he adds to this
argument that this is the last month of the rains; the Masika has
begun, and our way north will soon be open. The fact of the matter is
that Mohamad, by not telling me of the superabundance of water in the
country of the Marungu, which occurs every year, caused me to lose
five months. He knew that we should be detained here, but he was so
eager to get out of his state of durance with Casembe that he hastened
my departure by asserting that we should be at Ujiji in one month. I
regret this deception, but it is not to be wondered at, and in a
Mohamadan and in a Christian too it is thought clever. Were my goods
not nearly done I would go, and risk the displeasure of Casembe for
the chance of discovering the Lake Bemba. I thought once of buying
from Mohamad Bogharib, but am afraid that his stock may be getting low
too: I fear that I must give up this Lake for the present.
_12th April, 1868._--I think of starting to-morrow for Bangweolo, even
if Casembe refuses a passage beyond him: we shall be better there than
we are here, for everything at Kabwabwata is scarce and dear. There we
can get a fowl for one string of beads, here it costs six: there fish
may be bought, here none. Three of Casembe's principal men are here,
Kakwata, Charley, and Kapitenga; they are anxious to go home, and
would be a gain to me, but Mohamad detains them, and when I ask his
reason he says "Muabo refuses," but they point to Mohamad's house and
say, "It is he who refuses."
[A very serious desertion took place at this time amongst Dr.
Livingstone's followers. Not to judge them too harshly they had become
to a great extent demoralised by camp life with Mohamad and his horde
of slaves and slavers. The Arab tried all he could to dissuade the
traveller from proceeding south instead of homewards through Ujiji,
and the men seem to have found their own breaking-point where this
disappointment occurred.]
_13th April, 1868._--On preparing to start this morning my people
refused to go: the fact is, they are all tired, and Mohamad's
opposition encourages them. Mohamad, who was evidently eager to make
capital out of their refusal, asked me to remain over to-day, and then
demanded what I was going to do with those who had absconded. I said,
"Nothing: if a magistrate were on the spot, I would give them over to
him." "Oh," said he, "I am magistrate, shall I apprehend them?" To
this I assented. He repeated this question till it was tiresome: I saw
his reason long afterwards, when he asserted that I "came to him and
asked him to bind them, but he had refused:" he wanted to appear to
the people as much better than I am.
_14th April, 1868._--I start off with five attendants, leaving most of
the luggage with Mohamad, and reach the Luao to spend the night.
Headman Ndowa.
_15th April, 1868._--Amoda ran away early this morning. "Wishes to
stop with his brothers." They think that, by refusing to go to Bemba,
they will force me to remain with them, and then go to Ujiji: one of
them has infused the idea into their minds that I will not pay them,
and exclaims "Look at the sepoys!"--not knowing that they are paid by
the Indian Government; and as for the Johanna men, they were prepaid
_29l. 4s._ in cash, besides clothing. I sent Amoda's bundle back to
Mohamad: my messenger got to Kabwabwata before Amoda did, and he
presented himself to my Arab friend, who, of course, scolded him: he
replied that he was tired of carrying, and no other fault had he; I
may add that I found out that Amoda wished to come south to me with
one of Mohamad Bogharib's men, but "Mpamari" told him not to return.
Now that I was fairly started, I told my messenger to say to Mohamad
that I would on no account go to Ujiji, till I had done all in my
power to reach the Lake I sought: I would even prefer waiting at Luao
or Moero, till people came to me from Ujiji to supplant the runaways.
I did not blame them very severely in my own mind for absconding: they
were tired of tramping, and so verily am I, but Mohamad, in
encouraging them to escape to him, and talking with a double tongue,
cannot be exonerated from blame. Little else can be expected from him,
he has lived some thirty-five years in the country, twenty-five being
at Casembe's, and there he had often to live by his wits.
Consciousness of my own defects makes me lenient.
_16th April, 1868._--Ndowa gives Mita or Mpamañkanana as the names of
the excavations in Muabo's hills, he says that they are sufficient to
conceal all the people of this district in case of war: I conjecture
that this implies room for ten thousand people: provisions are stored
in them, and a perennial rivulet runs along a whole street of them. On
one occasion, when the main entrance was besieged by an enemy, someone
who knew all the intricacies of the excavations led a party out by a
secret passage, and they, coming over the invaders, drove them off
with heavy loss. Their formation is universally ascribed to the Deity.
This may mean that the present inhabitants have succeeded the original
burrowing race, which dug out many caves adjacent to Mount Hor--the
_Jebel Nébi Harin_, Mount of the Prophet Aaron, of the Arabs--and many
others; and even the Bushman caves, a thousand miles south of this
region.
A very minute, sharp-biting mosquito is found here: the women try to
drive them out of their huts by whisking bundles of green leaves all
round the walls before turning into them.
_17th August, 1868._--Crossed the Luao by a bridge, thirty yards long,
and more than half a mile of flood on each side; passed many villages,
standing on little heights, which overlook plains filled with water.
Some three miles of grassy plains abreast of Moero were the deepest
parts, except the banks of Luao. We had four hours of wading, the
bottom being generally black tenacious mud. Ruts had been formed in
the paths by the feet of passengers: these were filled with soft mud,
and, as they could not be seen, the foot was often placed on the edge,
and when the weight came on it, down it slumped into the mud, half-way
up the calves; it was difficult to draw it out, and very fatiguing. To
avoid these ruts we encroached on the grass at the sides of the paths,
but often stepping on the unseen edge of a rut, we floundered in with
both feet to keep the balance, and this was usually followed by a rush
of bubbles to the surface, which, bursting, discharged foul air of
frightful faecal odour. In parts, the black mud and foul water were
cold, in others hot, according as circulation went on or not. When we
came near Moero, the water became half-chest and whole-chest deep; all
perishable articles had to be put on the head. We found a party of
fishermen on the sands, and I got a hut, a bath in the clear but tepid
waters, and a delicious change of dress. Water of Lake, 83° at 3 P.M.
_18th April, 1868._--We marched along the north end of Moero, which
has a south-east direction. The soft yielding sand which is flanked by
a broad belt of tangled tropical vegetation and trees, added to the
fatigues of yesterday, so finding a deserted fisherman's village near
the eastern hills, we gladly made it our quarters for Sunday (19th). I
made no mark, but the Lake is at least twenty feet higher now than it
was on our first visits, and there are banks showing higher rises even
than this.
Large fish-baskets made of split reeds are used in trios for catching
small fish; one man at each basket drives fish ashore.
_20th April, 1868._--Went on to Katétté River, and then to a strong
torrent; slept at a village on the north bank of the River Vuna,
where, near the hills, is a hot fountain, sometimes used to cook
cassava and maize.
_21st April, 1868._--Crossed the Vuna and went on to Kalembwé's
village, meeting the chief at the gate, who guided us to a hut, and
manifested great curiosity to see all our things; he asked if we could
not stop next day and drink beer, which would then be ready. Leopards
abound here. The Lake now seems broader than ever.
I could not conceive that a hole in the cartilage of the nose could be
turned to any account except to hold an ornament, though that is
usually only a bit of grass, but a man sewing the feathers on his
arrows used his nose-hole for holding a needle! In coming on to
Kangalola we found the country swimming: I got separated from the
company, though I saw them disappear in the long grass not a hundred
yards off and shouted, but the splashing of their feet prevented any
one hearing. I could not find a path going south, so I took one to the
east to a village; the grass was so long and tangled, I could scarcely
get along, at last I engaged a man to show me the main path south, and
he took me to a neat village of a woman--Nyinakasangaand would go no
further, "Mother Kasanga," as the name means, had been very handsome,
and had a beautiful daughter, probably another edition of herself, she
advised my waiting in the deep shade of the Ficus indica, in which her
houses were placed. I fired a gun, and when my attendants came gave
her a string of beads, which made her express distress at my "leaving
without drinking anything of hers." People have abandoned several
villages on account of the abundance of ferocious wild beasts.
_23rd April, 1868._--Through very thick tangled Nyassi grass to
Chikosi's burned village; Nsama had killed him. We spent the night in
a garden hut, which the fire of the village had spared. Turnips were
growing in the ruins. The Nyassi, or long coarse grass, hangs over the
paths, and in pushing it aside the sharp seeds penetrate the clothes
and are very annoying. The grass itself rubs on the face and eyes
disagreeably: when it is burned off and greensward covers the soil it
is much more pleasant walking.
24th _April, 1868._--We leave Chikosi's ruins and make for the ford of
the Kalungosi. Marigolds are in full bloom all over the forest, and so
are foxgloves. The river is here fully 100 yards broad with 300 yards
of flood on its western bank; so deep we had to remain in the canoes
till within 50 yards of the higher ground. The people here chew the
pith of the papyrus, which is three inches in diameter and as white as
snow: it has very little sweetness or anything else in it. The headman
of the village to which we went was out cutting wood for a garden, and
his wife refused us a hut, but when Kansabala came in the evening he
scolded his own spouse roundly and all the wives of the village, and
then pressed me to come indoors, but I was well enough in my mosquito
curtain without, and declined: I was free from insects and vermin, and
few huts are so.
_25th April, 1868._--Off early west, and then on to an elevated forest
land, in which our course was S.S.W. to the great bend of the rivulet
Kifurwa, which enters Moero near to the mouth of the Kalungosi.
_26th April, 1868._--Here we spent Sunday in our former woodcutters'
huts. Yesterday we were met by a party of the same occupation, laden
with bark-cloth, which they had just been stripping off the trees.
Their leader would not come along the path because I was sitting near
it: I invited him to do so, but it would have been disrespectful to
let his shadow fall on any part of my person, so he went a little out
of the way: this politeness is common.
_27th April, 1868._--But a short march to Fungafunga's village: we
could have gone on to the Muatizé, but no village exists there, and
here we could buy food. Fungafunga's wife gave a handsome supper to
the stranger: on afterwards acknowledging it to her husband he said,
"That is your village; always go that way and eat my provisions." He
is a Monyamwezi trading in the country for copper, hoes, and slaves.
Parrots are here in numbers stealing Holcus sorghum in spite of the
shouts of the women.
We cross Muatizé by a bridge of one large tree, getting a good view of
Moero from a hill near Kabukwa, and sleep at Chirongo River.
_29th April, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. Some men here from the
Chungu, one of whom claimed to be a relative of Casembe, made a great
outcry against our coming a second time to Casembe without waiting at
the Kalungosi for permission. One of them, with his ears cropped short
off, asked me when I was departing north if I should come again. I
replied, "Yes, I think I shall." They excited themselves by calling
over the same thing again and again. "The English come the second
time!" "The second time--the second time--the country spoiled! Why not
wait at the Kalungosi? Let him return thither." "Come from Mpamari
too, and from the Bagaraganza or Banyamwezi!!" "The second time--the
second time!" Then all the adjacent villagers were called in to
settle this serious affair. I look up to that higher Power to
influence their minds as He has often done before. I persuaded them to
refer the matter to Casembe himself by sending a man with one of mine
up to the town. They would not consent to go on to the Chungu, as the
old cropped-eared man would have been obliged to come back the
distance again, he having been on the way to the Kalungosi as a
sentinel of the ford. Casembe is reasonable and fair, but his people
are neither, and will do anything to mulct either strangers or their
own countrymen.
_30th April, 1868._--The cold of winter has begun, and dew is
deposited in great quantities, but all the streams are very high in
flood, though the rains have ceased here some time.
_1st May, 1868._--At the Mandapala River. I sent a request to Mohamad
Bogharib to intercede with Casembe for me for a man to show the way to
Chikumbi, who is near to Bangweolo. I fear that I have become mixed up
in the Lunda mind with Mpamari (Mohamad bin Saleh), from having gone
off with him and returning ere we reached Ujiji, whither ostensibly we
were bound. I may be suspected of being in his confidence, and of
forwarding his plans by coming back. A deaf and dumb man appears among
the people here, making signs exactly as I have seen such do in
England, and occasionally emitting a low unmodulated guttural drawl
like them.
_3rd May, 1868._--Abraham, my messenger, came back, while we were at
afternoon prayers, with good news for us, but what made Cropped-ears
quite chopfallen was that Casembe was quite gracious! He did not wish
me to go away, and now I am welcome back; and as soon as we hear of
peace at Chikumbi's we shall have a man to conduct us thither. The
Mazitu were reported to have made an inroad into Chikumbi's country;
and it was said that chief had fled, and Casembe had sent messengers
to hear the truth. Thanks to the Most High for His kindness and
influence.
_4th May, 1868._--We leave the Mandapala. Cropped-ears, whose name I
never heard, collapsed at once on hearing the message of Casembe:
before that I never heard such a babbler, to every one passing, man or
woman, he repeated the same insinuations about the English, and
"Mpamari," and the Banyamwezi,--conspiracy--guilt--return a second
time,--till, like a meddling lawyer, he thought that he had really got
an important case in hand!
The River Chungu we found to be from fifteen to eighteen yards broad
and breast deep, with at least one hundred yards of flood, before we
reached the main stream, the Mandapala. The Chungu and the Lundi join
in the country called Kimbafuma, about twelve miles from our
crossing-place of Mandapala, and about west of it. The Lundi was now
breast deep too, and twelve yards broad.
On reaching Casembe's, on the Mofwé, we found Mohamad Bogharib digging
and fencing up a well to prevent his slaves being taken away by the
crocodiles, as three had been eaten already. A dog bit the leg of one
of my goats so badly that I was obliged to kill it: they are nasty
curs here, without courage, and yet they sometimes bite people badly.
I met some old friends, and Mohamad Bogharib cooked a supper, and from
this time forward never omitted sharing his victuals with me.
_6th May, 1868._--Manoel Caetano Pereira visited Casembe in 1796, or
seventy-two years ago: his native name was Moendo-mondo, or the
world's leg--"world-wide traveller!" He came to Mandapala, for there
the Casembe of the time resided, and he had a priest or "Kasisé" with
him, and many people with guns. Pérémbé, the oldest man now in Lunda,
had children even then: if Pérémbé were thirty years of age at that
period he would now be 102 years old, and he seems quite that, for
when Dr. Lacerda came he had forty children. He says that Pereira
fired off all his guns on his arrival, and Casembe asking him what he
meant by that, he replied, "These guns ask for slaves and ivory," both
of which were liberally given.
I could not induce Pérémbé to tell anything of times previous to his
own. Moendo-mondo, the world's leg (Pereira), told Dr. Lacerda that
the natives called him "The Terror!"--a bit of vanity, for they have
no such word or abstract term in their language.
When Major Monteiro was here the town of Casembe was on the same spot
as now, but the Mosumba, or enclosure of the chief, was about 500
yards S.E. of the present one. Monteiro went nowhere and did nothing,
but some of his attendants went over to the Luapula, some six miles
distant. He complains in his book of having been robbed by the Casembe
of the time. On asking the present occupant of the office why
Monteiro's goods were taken from him, he replied, that he was then
living at another village and did not know of the affair. Mohamad bin
Saleh was present, and he says that Monteiro's statement is false: no
goods were forced from him; but it was a year of scarcity, and
Monteiro had to spend his goods in buying food instead of slaves and
ivory, and made up the tale of Casembe plundering him to appease his
creditors.
A number of men were sent with Monteiro as an honorary escort. Kapika,
an old man now living, was the chief or one of the chiefs of this
party, and he says that he went to Tette, Senna, and Quillimane with
Monteiro: this honorary escort seems confirmatory of Mohamad's
explanation, for had Casembe robbed the Major none would have been
granted or received.
It is warmer here than we found it in the way; clouds cover the sky
and prevent radiation. The sorghum is now in full ear. People make
very neat mats of the leaves of the Shuaré palm. I got lunars this
time.
_9th May, 1868._--Eight or ten men went past us this morning, sent by
the chief to catch people whom he intends to send to his paramount
chief, Matiamvo, as a tribute of slaves. Pérémbé gives the following
list of the Casembes:--
I. KANYIMBE, came from Lunda, attracted by the
fish of Mofwé and Moero, and conquered
Pérémbé's forefather, Katéré, who planted the
first palm-oil palms here from seeds got in
Lunda. It is probable that the intercourse
then set afoot led to Kanyimbé's coming and
conquest.
II. KINYANTA.
III. NGUANDA MILONDA.
IV. KANYEMBO.
V. LEKWISA.
VI. KIRÉKA.
VII. KAPUMBA.
VIII. KINYANTA.
IX. LEKWISA, still alive, but a fugitive at Nsama's.
X. MUONGA, the present ruler, who drove Lékwisa
away.
The Portuguese came to Kiréka, who is said to have been very liberal
with presents of ivory, slaves, and cattle. The present man has good
sense, and is very fair in his judgments, but stingy towards his own
people as well as strangers: nevertheless I have had good reason to be
satisfied with his conduct to me. Maiyé, not in the list, and 7, 8, 9,
10 are the children of Kiréka. Muonga is said by the others to be a
slave "born out of the house," that is, his mother was not of the
royal line; she is an ugly old woman, and greedy. I got rid of her
begging by giving her the beads she sought, and requesting her to cook
some food for me; she begged no more, afraid that I would press my
claim for provisions!
_10th May, 1868._--I sent to Casembe for a guide to Luapula, he
replied that he had not seen me nor given me any food; I must come
to-morrow: but next day he was occupied in killing a man for
witchcraft and could not receive us, but said that he would on the
12th. He sent 15 fish (perch) from Mofwé, and a large basket of dried
cassava. I have taken lunars several times, measuring both sides of
the moon about 190 times, but a silly map-maker may alter the whole
for the most idiotic of reasons.
_13th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib has been here some seven months,
and bought three tusks only; the hunting, by Casembe's people, of
elephants in the Mofwé has been unsuccessful.
We did not get an audience from Casembe; the fault lay with
Kapika--Monteiro's escort--being afraid to annoy Casembe by putting
him in mind of it, but on the 15th Casembe sent for me, and told me
that as the people had all fled from Chikumbi's, he would therefore
send guides to take us to Kabaia, where there was still a population;
he wished me to wait a few days till he had looked out good men as
guides, and ground some flour for us to use in the journey. He
understood that I wished to go to Bangweolo; and it was all right to
do what my own chief had sent me for, and then come back to him. It
was only water--the same as Luapula, Mofwé, and Moero; nothing to be
seen. His people must not molest me again, but let me go where I
liked. This made me thank Him who has the hearts of all in His hand.
Casembe also admitted that he had injured "Mpamari," but he would send
him some slaves and ivory in reparation: he is better than his people,
who are excessively litigious, and fond of milandos or causes--suits.
He asked if I had not the leopard's skin he gave me to sit on, as it
was bad to sit on the ground; I told him it had so many holes in it
people laughed at it and made me ashamed, but he did not take the
hint to give me another. He always talks good sense when he has not
swilled beer or pombe: all the Arabs are loud in his praises, but they
have a bad opinion of the Queen Moäri or Ngombé or Kifuta. The
Garaganza people at Katanga killed a near relative of Casembe and
herself, and when the event happened, Fungafunga, one of the Garaganza
or Banyamwezi being near the spot, fled and came to the Mofwé: he
continued his flight as soon as it was dark without saying anything to
anyone, until he got north to Kabiuré. The Queen and Casembe suspected
Mpamari of complicity with the Banyamwezi, and believed that
Fungafunga had communicated the news to him before fleeing further. A
tumult was made; Mpamari's eldest son was killed; and he was plundered
of all his copper, ivory, and slaves: the Queen loudly demanded his
execution, but Casembe restrained his people as well as he was able
and it is for this injury that he now professes to be sorry.
The Queen only acted according to the principles of her people.
"Mpamari killed my son, kill his son--himself." It is difficult to get
at the truth, for Mohamad or Mpamari never tells the whole truth. He
went to fight Nsama with Muonga, and was wounded in the foot and
routed, and is now glad to get out of Lunda back to Ujiji. _(16th
May.)_ Complete twenty sets of lunars.
_11th May, 1868._--Mohamad Bogharib told Casembe that he could buy
nothing, and therefore was going away, Casembe replied that he had no
ivory and he might go: this was sensible; he sent far and near to find
some, but failed, and now confesses a truth which most chiefs hide
from unwillingness to appear poor before foreigners.
_18th and 19th May, 1868._--It is hot here though winter; but cold by
night. Casembe has sent for fish for us. News came that one of Syde
bin Habib's men had come to Chikumbi on his way to Zanzibar.
_20th May, 1868._--A thunder-shower from the east laid the dust and
cooled the ground: the last shower of this season, as a similar slight
shower was the finish up of the last on the 12th of May. _(21st May._)
This cannot be called a rainy month: April is the last month of the
wet season, and November the first.
_22nd May, 1868._--Casembe is so slow with his fish, meal, and guides,
and his people so afraid to hurry him, that I think of going off as
soon as Mohamad Bogharib moves; he is going to Chikumbi's to buy
copper, and thence he will proceed to Uvira to exchange that for
ivory; but this is at present kept as a secret from his slaves. The
way seems thus to be opening for me to go to the large Lake west of
Uvira.
I told Casembe that we were going; he said to me that if in coming
back I had found no travelling party, I must not risk going by Nsama's
road with so few people, but must go to his brother Moenempanda, and
he would send men to guide me to him, and thence he would send me
safely by his path along Lake Moero: this was all very good.
_23rd May, 1868._--The Arabs made a sort of sacrifice of a goat which
was cooked all at once; they sent a good dish of it to me. They read
the Koran very industriously, and prayed for success or luck in
leaving, and seem sincerely religious, according to the light that is
in them. The use of incense and sacrifices brings back the old Jewish
times to mind.
A number of people went off to the Kanengwa, a rivulet an hour south
of this, to build huts; there they are to take leave of Casembe, for
the main body goes off to-morrow, after we have seen the new moon.
They are very particular in selecting lucky days, and anything
unpleasant that may have happened in one month is supposed to be
avoided by choosing a different day for beginning an enterprise in the
next. Mohamad left Uvira on the third day of a new moon, and several
fires happened in his camp; he now considers a third day inauspicious.
Casembe's dura or sorghum is ripe to-day: he has eaten mapemba or
dura, and all may thereafter do the same: this is just about the time
when it ripens and is reaped at Kolobeng, thus the difference in the
seasons is not great.
_24th May, 1868._--Detained four days yet. Casembe's chief men refuse
to escort Mohamad Bogharib; they know him to be in debt, and fear that
he may be angry, but no dunning was intended. Casembe was making every
effort to get ivory to liquidate it, and at last got a couple of
tusks, which he joyfully gave to Mohamad: he has risen much in the
estimation of us all.
_26th May, 1868._--Casembe's people killed five buffaloes by chasing
them into the mud and water of Mofwé, so he is seeing to the division
of the meat, and will take leave to-morrow.
_28th May, 1868._--We went to Casembe; he was as gracious as usual. A
case of crim. con. was brought forward against an Arab's slave, and an
attempt was made to arrange the matter privately by offering three
cloths, beads, and another slave, but the complainant refused
everything. Casembe dismissed the case by saying to the complainant,
"You send your women to entrap the strangers in order to get a fine,
but you will get nothing:" this was highly applauded by the Arabs, and
the owner of the slave heaped dust on his head, as many had done
before for favours received. Casembe, still anxious to get ivory for
Mohamad, proposed another delay of four days to send for it; but all
are tired, and it is evident that it is not want of will that prevents
ivory being produced.
His men returned without any, and he frankly confessed inability: he
is evidently very poor.
_30th May, 1868._--We went to the Kanengwa rivulet at the south end
of Mofwé, which forms a little lagoon there fifty yards broad and
thigh deep; but this is not the important feeder of the Lagoon, which
is from two to three miles broad, and nearly four long: that has many
large flat sedgy islands in it, and its water is supplied by the
Mbérézé from south-east.
_31st May, 1868._--Old Kapika sold his young and good-looking wife for
unfaithfulness, as he alleged. The sight of a lady in the chain-gang
shocked the ladies of Lunda, who ran to her, and having ascertained
from her own mouth what was sufficiently apparent, that she was a
slave now, clapped their hands on their mouths in the way that they
express wonder, surprise, and horror: the hand is placed so that the
fingers are on one cheek and the thumb on the other.
The case of the chieftainess excited great sympathy among the people;
some brought her food, Kapika's daughters brought her pombe and
bananas; one man offered to redeem her with two, another with three
slaves, but Casembe, who is very strict in punishing infidelity, said,
"No, though ten slaves be offered she must go." He is probably afraid
of his own beautiful queen should the law be relaxed. Old Kapika came
and said to her, "You refused me, and I now refuse you." A young wife
of old Pérémbé was also sold as a punishment, but redeemed.
There is a very large proportion of very old and very tall men in this
district. The slave-trader is a means of punishing the wives which
these old fogies ought never to have had.
Casembe sent me about a hundredweight of the small fish Nsipo, which
seems to be the whitebait of our country; it is a little bitter when
cooked alone, but with ground-nuts is a tolerable relish: we can buy
flour with these at Chikumbi's.
FOOTNOTES:
[60] Chikichi nuts have been an article of trade and export for some
time from Zanzibar. The oil-palm grows wild in Pemba.
[61] A chief named Moené Ungu, who admires the Arabs, sent his
children to Zanzibar to be instructed to read and write.
[62] This bird is often brought to Zanzibar by the Ivory Caravans.
[63] The Doctor's birthday.