[The sudden death of Mr. Owen prevented him from recasting the
materials he had gathered and the paper he had written. It has been
a labour of love to the Archdeacon of Chester to do this, and to add
some little matter bearing upon the points which Mr. Owen, with his
full and sympathetic knowledge of the place, had brought into such
clear prominence.]
Farndon (Ferenton in Domesday Book) is a village about eight miles from
Chester, and small though it is, it has played no unimportant part in
the history of the county. It is situated on the banks of the Dee,
immediately opposite to Holt, in Wales, with which it is connected by a
fine stone bridge of nine arches. Many people nowadays will only think
of the extensive fields of strawberries for which Farndon is famous,
and it will therefore be a revelation to them to learn that the village
in former days was a place of some importance.
[Illustration: Farndon Bridge.]
Going back to Roman times, we must remember that Farndon was on the
road between Chester and Wroxeter, and that it commanded the ferry,
the first means of crossing the river above Chester. The importance of
this situation in that early period has recently been brought out by
the discovery of extensive Roman remains at Holt, and within half a
mile of Farndon Bridge. Here cartloads of broken pottery, tiles, and
drain-pipes have been found, many of which bear the stamp of “Leg. xx.
v.v.,” with that regiment’s peculiar badge of the boar. The excavations
are still proceeding, and fortunately are being conducted under the
supervision of an ardent antiquarian, Mr. Arthur Acton, who is the
occupier of the site. It is too soon yet to form an adequate opinion of
the bearing of this discovery on past history. That an important Roman
station existed here there can be no doubt, and it must have extended
its distinction to Farndon, at the opposite side of the river. In fact,
Roman tiles and portions of a hypocaust have been found at Crewe Hill,
the residence of Mr. Harry Barnston, in the parish and about a mile
south of the village of Farndon. It has been suggested that the site at
Holt may have been occupied by kilns for the manufacture of tiles and
pipes. The profusion in which these are found and the character of some
of them are somewhat in favour of this idea. Large supplies would be
needed for the neighbouring city of Chester, and this may have been the
most convenient spot for making them. But if this were so, the factory
would no doubt be protected in some way, and the excavations which
are proceeding will probably reveal something, and may clear up the
matter. In any case, Farndon would derive considerable importance from
its proximity to Holt, as it was here that the river was crossed; if
Holt was a camp, there would be frequent communications through Farndon
between it and Chester; if a factory, the articles constructed would
have to be conveyed through the place in the same way. We can well
imagine that in those bygone ages Farndon witnessed a considerable,
if not a constant, stream of traffic between Wales and Chester. It
is possible that Holt, and not Bangor-is-y-coed, may have been the
site of the Roman _Bovium_, and the late Mr. Thompson Watkins, in his
_Roman Cheshire_, in 1886 wrote: “If Bovium were on this line of road,
which I do not think, it would certainly be at Holt or Farndon, for
the distance, nine English or ten Roman miles, exactly agrees, whilst
Bangor is at least fifteen Roman miles from Chester.” If this were the
case, Farndon would derive considerable importance from its nearness
to the place, and would in some measure be a kind of outwork and
protection to it.
Coming on to a later period, Farndon, from its position, must often
have been the scene of stirring events. It was, as will have been
gathered, not far from Bangor Monachorum, and communications between
the two places must have been frequent. It is conceivable that the
first Christian church was planted at Farndon, or the first preaching
of Christianity given, by the monks from that monastery, but this must
be a matter of conjecture. But when Ethelfrith, the pagan King of
Northumbria, having conquered Chester, invaded Wales, A.D. 613, he must
have passed through Farndon, or been in its immediate neighbourhood.
It was then that the “Battle of Chester” was fought, and that the
King massacred 1200 monks upon the field, because, though not bearing
arms, they were praying for his defeat, and afterwards burnt down the
monastic buildings, murdered the remnant of the monks, and destroyed
their libraries. Those must have been anxious times for the dwellers
in Farndon. No doubt in the years that followed they were continually
being roused to activity, and had to protect themselves from constant
attacks from their neighbours, the Welsh; but all this we must imagine,
for we have no definite record of it. We are told that Edward the
Elder, son of King Alfred, died at Farndon in 925, on his way south
from fighting at Chester. He was carried to Winchester and buried in
the Cathedral. The quotation from William of Malmesbury is as follows:
After the battle at Chester “paucis diebus apud Ferenduna mortuus est
Edvardus.” Some think that this refers to Farndon in Nottinghamshire,
though the wounded monarch could hardly have accomplished so long
a ride in a few days. The statement or tradition is an interesting
one, and it would be well if further confirmatory information were
forthcoming. It is curious (though it may have no connection with
this event) that there was afterwards at Farndon one of the Cheshire
sanctuaries called King’s Marsh. “It was a wild, desolate district,
surrounded by a ditch to mark the limit of safety for fugitives and
‘foreigners’; for any who sought the protection of the Earl of Chester,
or who were acting as mercenaries against his enemies, might reside
here in safety for a year and day, provided they used no nails or pins
in the erection of their squatter’s tent.”[50]
[50] Coward’s _Picturesque Cheshire_, p. 278. The title may perhaps
be due to the fact that King Richard III. granted Over-Marsh to Sir
William Stanley, the name being subsequently changed to King’s Marsh.
The bridge which succeeded the ferry has always been famous as
affording connection with Wales. The next bridge below is at Aldford,
some six miles by river, and the next above at Bangor, about fourteen
miles distant by the river, which winds considerably. The date for it
given by Pennant is 1345, and he says, “Until lately” (by which he may
mean 1820 to 1830) “the date was over one of the arches,” but that has
now disappeared. It consists of nine arches, one of which is higher
than the rest; and in the roadway above this is some very massive
masonry on the north side, indicating the site of the guardhouse, under
which was a drawbridge, used with considerable effect at the battle of
Farndon Bridge, when the Parliamentarians drove the Royalists over into
Wales in 1643. In the Constable’s accounts for 1727 occurs the item:
“Payd for the Guard House, 00. 01. 09.” The best part of the old bridge
is to be seen by going into the third bay from Holt on the north side,
and observing the tracery of a portion of some beautiful windows. The
western one has remains of steps leading down to the water. Attention
is directed to this, as but few visitors notice it. A sad tragedy is
connected with this bridge. Prince Madoc, son of Griffith, Lord of
Dinas Bran, had two sons, of whom Earl Warren and Roger Mortimer, Earl
of the Marches, were appointed guardians by Edward I. These lords soon
conspired to free themselves from their charges and possess themselves
of their estates. Accordingly they caused them, one being of the age of
ten and the other eight, to be thrown over the bridge and drowned. The
authority for this story is in a manuscript in the Bodleian Library,
but for many years a variation of it was current in the country under
the fable of two young fairies who had been destroyed in this manner.
There were also legends of their ghosts being seen at certain times.
It was Roger Mortimer who, with Isabella, wife of Edward II., was
responsible for that King’s death at Berkeley Castle.
The bridge must have been the scene of many a fierce fight when the
marauding Welsh sought to cross to Farndon; sometimes also between the
factions of the two towns, for though such near neighbours, the men
of Farndon and Holt were frequently at loggerheads. In the Civil War,
however, the bridge came into great prominence. Sir William Brereton
forced his passage over it into Wales in November 1643 on his way to
Hawarden. A few years ago letters from him bearing on the point were
published in the Reports of the Historical Manuscript Commission.
They show how the Royalists had made a tower and a drawbridge, and
put strong gates on the bridge between Holt and Farndon; and these
were so strong “that they and wee conceived it verrie difficulte,
if not altogether ympossible, to make way for our passage over the
bridge.” However, Sir William, having by a feint drawn off some of
the Royalists, made a fierce attack on the bridge, cut the ropes of
the drawbridge, forced open the gates, and gained possession of the
bridge. Many of the Royalist troops retreated to Holt Castle, which was
strongly fortified, but Sir William pushed on and captured Wrexham,
and eventually, as stated in another paper in this volume, occupied
Hawarden Castle. Two years later the Royalist cavalry, coming from
Wales under the command of Sir Marmaduke Langdale, came over the bridge
before the disastrous battle on Rowton Moor, and some few of those who
escaped made use of the same way for their retreat. And during this
anxious time, or at any rate a portion of it, the church at Farndon
was turned into a garrison for soldiers, and naturally suffered in
consequence. It was burnt by the Parliamentarians in 1645, and traces
of this may still be seen, as also the marks of the shot and bullets
which were discharged at it.
The church probably occupies the site of an earlier Saxon wooden
building. Like the church of Holt, it is dedicated to St. Chad, who
is the patron saint of a great many churches in the boundaries of the
old kingdom of Mercia. It stands on an eminence, and is 86 feet above
the sea-level, whilst the bridge is 12½ miles distant from the weir
at Chester. The nave and pillars are late Norman of the close of the
twelfth century. Originally the nave had a sloping roof, the lines
of which may be seen above the tower arch. The clerestory windows
were added at the rebuilding of the church after the fire. The tower,
which can be seen from a considerable distance, is said to be of the
thirteenth century, and the aisle windows are of the date of Charles
II. Formerly there was good stained glass of an heraldic character
relating to the families of Leche of Carden and Bostock of Churton,
but this has entirely disappeared. A great treasure, however, is to
be seen in the Barnston Chapel, on the south side, where there is a
small stained-glass window of a character almost absolutely unique.
It contains coloured figures of the four loyal Royalist families
who fought for King Charles I. The first top light has gone, but on
the plain glass is the inscription: “This window being ruinated was
repaired by Dean Cholmondeley.” In the second light we have Sir William
Mainwaring; in the third, Sir Thomas (or Sir Roger) Grosvenor; and in
the fourth, Captain William Barnston. In the centre is a representation
of Sir Francis Gamul (bearing the badge of baronetcy) of Chester, with
whom King Charles witnessed the defeat of his army on Rowton Moor. In
the lowest light is a picture of Mr. Barrington of Chester, who is
carrying an ensign most gracefully. The glass is most interesting,
and the details of the various panels are very full, the coats of
arms of the various officers being given, and thus leading to their
identification. The great gun or arquebus should be noted, with its
support or carrier looking like a pitchfork. Large pikes and helmets
like those depicted are preserved at Crewe Hill, the residence of
Mr. Harry Barnston. The glass has been carefully protected, under the
advice of Messrs. Powell, and Mr. Barnston has written a description,
which is placed underneath. The window may probably be dated soon after
the Restoration. The Barnston family have resided in the parish since
1370.
Another feature of the church is the ancient stone effigy of a knight
in armour. The probable date of this is 1346. On his shield is written
in Lombardic letters: “Hic jacet Patricius de Barton. Orate pro eo.”
Barton, it may be remarked, is one of the townships of Farndon. He is
semi-plated with chain armour and surcoat. The arms or distinctions on
the shield are: “Argent, a bend cotised.” At his feet are two animals,
a dog and a scaly animal, various interpretations being given of them,
but none so far satisfactory.[51] The face of the knight was probably
disfigured when the church was used as barracks. There were two other
stone effigies in the church, but they were broken up about 1780 to
mend the paths! One is said to have been a monument to Madocus, a
prince in Wales, already alluded to.
[51] Lysons describes them thus: “On one of the shields a lion rampant,
and on another a wolf passant regardant (the coat of Daresbury).”
The overseers’ and wardens’ books give many interesting particulars
bearing upon the state of affairs at the time of the Civil War. Many
of these were published in _The Cheshire Sheaf_ in 1884. The following
will give some indication of their character: “1644. To the Constable
for the Treaned (_trained_) Souldier for tow months’ pay for the loar
(_lower?_) house, xviiij_d._” “1644, 20 Jan. Payd to Crestlendon
(_Christleton_) to the garrison there, x_d._” “1644, 21 ffebruary.
Richard Oakes took three measures of malt to ffarndon sege, and the 7th
of this month a lofe of bread 14 lb.” The experience of these anxious
days no doubt led the parochial authorities to the conclusion that
permanent arrangements should be made for the protection of the place
and district. After the raising of the siege of Chester we find this
entry: “1646, 28 May. Payd to Thos. Moltra, constable, 2 mises, one for
the building of a munt (_mount_) in the view of the Castle of the Holt
for to keep them better in, the other, &c.” This building of a mount is
most interesting. There is still a place called “The Mount Field” on
the Farndon side of the river, nearly opposite Holt Castle. Upon this
spot in 1646 cannon were placed, and cannon-balls have been found in
the field. Many other entries from these carefully preserved records
and from the registers might be given, but these must suffice to show
the importance of Farndon, which must from the earliest times have been
a commanding position, and thus have filled no mean place in the annals
of the history of the county and the country at large.
It will not be out of place to mention here that Farndon is one of the
parishes which keep up a _Rush-bearing Sunday_. Of course this does not
imply, as in olden days, the strewing of the church with fresh rushes,
which was done for the comfort of the worshippers. At stated times,
and generally at the time of the patronal feast of a church, the old
rushes were cleared away and new ones carried in, and this was done
with due solemnity, and the occasion made into a parochial festival.
Now at Farndon, Shocklach, and some other places, the graves are decked
with rushes and flowers, and thus the memory of departed friends is
cherished, whilst it is a time for reunion of families, and distant
members revisit their homes.
We can give no account, not even traditional, of the prowess of Patrick
de Barton and the other knights whose effigies have been mentioned.
They probably would have been worth recording if this had been
possible. But Farndon can, at any rate, boast of some distinguished
natives. The Barnston Chapel in the church cannot but remind us of
some, and specially Wm. Barnston, portrayed in the window there.
He died 6th March 1664, and on the tablet to his memory he is thus
described: “He was a person of great worth and integrity, ventured
his life and fortune with King Charles the First; was sent prisoner
from Oxford to London, where he continued till he paid his composition
for his estate.” In later years a member of the same family, Roger
Barnston, distinguished himself in the Crimea and in the Indian Mutiny,
dying of his wounds at Cawnpore; and his deeds are commemorated by a
tall stone obelisk by the side of the road in the parish. But Farndon
has produced one distinguished man of peace at least besides these
strenuous soldiers. John Speed, generally known as the historian, was
born here in 1552. He was a tailor by trade, and migrated first to
Wrexham and then to London. Here, “under the favour of the Company of
Merchant Taylors, he was rescued from his menial employment.” He must,
of course, have shown some aptitude for study to have attracted this
notice. His opportunities at Farndon cannot have been great, as the
school there was only founded in the year of his death. In passing we
may note that this place produced another antiquary in the person of
Dr. Williamson, who was born at Chilton, a township of this parish, and
whose manuscript history of the Cheshire manors (_Villare Cestriense_)
has been of much use to subsequent writers. Speed apparently rose to
high office in the company, which had just shown its warm interest
in education by establishing in 1561 the Merchant Taylors’ School,
which has proved such a valuable institution. Queen Elizabeth had two
favourite antiquarians--one was Sir John Camden and the other John
Speed. The former of these is no doubt the more famous of the two, and
his researches have been of great benefit to subsequent historians,
whilst his name is perpetuated in the title of one of the History
Professorships at Oxford. But Speed did very good work and has left
behind him a great deal that is valuable in his stupendous volumes,
_The History of Great Britain_. Hulbert, in his _Cheshire Antiquities_
(1828), states that “he has often been denominated the Elucidator of
the Biography and History of Great Britain.” Had he had the advantages
of a liberal education he would probably have been as eminent a scholar
as his patrons, Sir Fulke Greville and Sir Robert Cotton. By the
generous assistance of the former of these he was enabled to withdraw
from the drudgery of business, and to devote himself to his favourite
pursuit, the study of history. How Speed became known to him we do
not know, but that great patron of learning (afterwards Lord Brooke,
who was assassinated in 1628) had the discernment to discover and the
generosity to encourage talent and genius, however humble in rank or
obscure in birth. John Speed must have become acquainted with the
literary men of his time, as Bacon, Shakespeare, Raleigh, Spenser, and
others, and from his association with them must have learnt a great
deal and have acquired that taste which stood him in good stead in the
gathering of information. When his origin and early years are taken
into account, he stands out as a wonderful example of the acquisition
of knowledge under difficulties, and so of patience and perseverance
in endeavouring to overcome them. He must have been gifted with great
natural talents, and he certainly made a good use of them. He was a
notable map-maker, and that at a time when such art must have been rare
and hard to acquire. Many old books of the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries contain maps drawn by him, and these generally were
embellished with certain artistic accessories, and were not confined
to mere outlines and names. Thus “the ground plan of Chester” has also
a view of Chester from the south-west side, the arms of the seven
Earls and eight Barons of Chester, and the arms of the city, as also a
reduced “mapp of Cheshire.” Similarly the map of “the Countye Palatine
of Chester” has also a plan “of that most ancient citye,” the arms of
the Earls, and of Speed and his assistant. In the body of the map are
trees, hills, windmills, and churches, whilst ships and fishes (of a
wonderful order) are to be seen in the estuary. An angel is depicted
with one hand on a globe on a table, and the other holding a shield
on which are Speed’s coat of arms, and underneath the inscription:
“Performed by John Speed assisted by William Smyth. And are to be solde
by Roger Rea the Elder and younger at the Golden Crosse in Cornhill
against the Exchange.” It will be gathered from this that in the
production of his works Speed must have taken the greatest pains, and
that he was not content with merely following the ordinary lines. The
following quotation from the 37th chapter of his book, dealing with the
County Palatine of Chester, may be interesting as showing the style in
which he wrote: “If the affection to my natural producer blind not the
judgement of this my Survey; for aire and soil it equalls the best,
and farre exceeds her neighbours the next Counties: for although the
Climate be cold, and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54, yet the warmth
from the _Irish Seas_ melteth the Snow, and dissolveth the Ice sooner
there than in those parts that are farther off; and so wholesome for
life that the inhabitants generally attain to many years. The soil is
fat, fruitfull, and rich, yielding abundantly both profit and pleasures
of man. The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their Tillers;
the Medows imbroidered with divers sweet-smelling flowers; and the
Pastures make the Kine’s udders to strout to the Paile, from whom and
wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made.” No apology can be
necessary for giving this opinion of his native county in _Memorials
of Old Cheshire_, as it shows the estimation in which he held it three
hundred years ago. Speed did not forget his old home and the church
where he was baptized, for he presented a silver chalice to the church.
Unfortunately this has disappeared, and one of the chalices now in use
bears the inscription: “This Cup was given in exchange for one given
to Farndon Church by John Speed.” The assassination of his patron,
Lord Brooke, in September 1628, and the death about the same time of
his wife, with whom he had spent fifty-seven years of his life, made a
great impression upon Speed, and he died 28th July 1629, and was buried
in St. Giles’ Church, Cripplegate, where a monument was erected to his
memory, on which was inscribed: “Civis Londinensis mercatorum scissorum
fratris servi fidelissimi regiarum majestatum Elizabethæ, Jacobi, and
Caroli nunc superstitis.” His portrait is in the National Portrait
Gallery. He published his _Theatre of the Empire of Great Britain_ in
1606, accompanied with the first set of maps ever published in England.
His _History of Great Britain_ appeared in 1644 after his death, and
beneath the plate of his portrait is a long Latin inscription, of which
a portion is given above. In this he is described as a “Geographer of
our lands, a faithful historian of the antiquity of Britain, and a most
elegant delineator of sacred genealogy.” This last is an allusion to
an elaborate work of his entitled, _The Cloud of Witnesses; or, The
Genealogies of Scripture confirming the truth of the Sacred History,
&c._
Farndon and the county of Cheshire may well be proud of her son, who
(to use Mr. Hulbert’s words) “by his character, talents, industry, and
perseverance gained friends among the most distinguished individuals
in the kingdom for learning and transcendent abilities; and who was a
man of genuine enlightened piety, and made his talents and his studies
subservient to the cause of virtue and true religion.”
[Illustration: Facsimile of Speed’s Autograph]