By P. H. Ditchfield, M.A., F.S.A.
Bright and fair is the Cheshire land and well renowned in story. It
is one of the most famous counties in England, and can raise its head
proudly above other less noted shires. It rejoices in being a County
Palatine, its Earls in former days having sovereign jurisdiction
within its precincts. The Earls of Chester held their own Parliaments,
summoned the barons and tenants to the conclave, and Acts of
Parliament passed by English houses of representatives had no force
within the Palatinate of Cheshire. It had its own courts of justice
for determining all pleas of land, tenements, contracts, felonies,
&c. It was an _imperium in imperio_, and though Lancashire and Durham
claimed similar privileges of Palatinate, their County Palatines were
established later than that of Chester and were not so well settled,
nor their powers and privileges so clearly defined. For a brief space
Cheshire was a Principality, and Richard II. styled himself _Princeps
Cestriæ_, and it can still boast of having a Prince for its Earl, the
title of Earl of Chester being always borne since the reign of King
Henry III. by the eldest son of the kings of England.
Famous, too, is the county for its illustrious sons. Speed, a Cheshire
man, who ought therefore to know well the truth of his statements,
though perhaps for that reason a little partial, says: “The shire may
well be said to be a seedplot of Gentilitie, and the producer of many
most ancient and worthy families; neither hath any brought more men of
valour into the Field than Cheeseshire hath done, who, by a generall
speech, are to this day called The Chiefe of men; and for nature’s
endowments (besides their noblenesse of mindes) may compare with any
other nation in the world; their limmes strait and well-composed;
their complexions faire, with a cheerfull countenance; and the Women
of a grace, feature and beautie, inferior unto none.”
Verily, Master Speed was a patriotic son, but he was not far from the
truth. Cheshire men have had their detractors, as who have not? These
scurrilous, envious persons have dared to frame this distich:
“Cheshire born and Cheshire bred,
Strong i’ th’ arm and weak i’ th’ yed.”
It sounds like a taunt thrown across the border of my native county
of Lancashire. Strong i’ th’ arm Cheshire men have ever been, as
the story of many a fight and foray in which they have gallantly
played their part has effectually told, but the long line of Cheshire
worthies serves to prove that their heads are not weaker than those
of their neighbours. If you need a further testimony to their
excellences, you can refer to the sixteenth-century Cheshire tourist,
who wrote of them: “They are of a stomach, stout, bold, and hardy;
of stature tall and mighty; withall impatient of wrong, and ready to
resist the enemy or stranger that shall invade their countrey; the
very name whereof they cannot abide, and namely, of a Scot.” Possibly
they have since that time seen fit to modify their dislike of the
gentlemen from across the Tweed, who are said by a modern critic “to
keep the Sabbath and everything else they can lay their hands on.”
The story of the shire presents many features of unique interest. Its
proximity to Wales rendered it the field of many a wild fight between
the sturdy Cheshire men and the warlike Welsh folk, and required the
possession of a powerful garrison. The port of Chester was the chief
place of embarkation for troops, which the turbulent Irishmen often
needed for the preservation of peace, and Briton, Saxon, Dane, and
Norman have left traces behind them of their presence in the county.
Before the advent of the Romans the district was inhabited by a
warlike British tribe called Cornavii, whose territory embraced most
of the counties on the Welsh border. They were a strong and martial
people, who gave much trouble to the Roman conquerors, and required a
formidable company of legionaries to keep them in order. The Romans
firmly established themselves on the banks of the Dee, or Deva as
they called the river. They knew well the district of Great Meols,
where many coins and _fibulæ_ have been discovered, but their great
stronghold was Chester. The discoveries of Roman remains in the city
are so important that no other place in the kingdom can rival it,
and most of these have been found during the last twenty-two years.
Built into the Roman city wall were found a large number of inscribed,
sculptured, or moulded stones, probably taken from the Roman cemetery,
erected in memory of the soldiers who fought in Roman legions. They
establish some interesting historical facts. First, we gather from a
stone erected to the memory of a soldier, whose name is lost, that the
legionaries were here in the earliest years of the Roman conquest of
Britain, about A.D. 50. The conquerors pushed along the old Watling
Street, which led to the Dee, and must have established themselves
there very soon after their advent to Britain. Secondly, we learn that
Chester was the permanent quarters of two special legions, Legio II.,
Adiutrix Pia Fidelis, and Legio XX., Valeria Victrix. Nearly all the
inscriptions relate to soldiers of one or other of these troops. When
the Second Legion was withdrawn to defend the Danube frontier, the
Twentieth remained to guard the Chester country, and sent contingents
to protect the forts of Manchester and North Wales. From the fact
that these memorial stones of Roman soldiers were afterwards taken
from the cemetery and built up in the Roman wall of the city, Dr.
Haverfield has determined that the Roman wall of Chester was built in
the latter part of the second century or in the commencement of the
third century. But we must leave the inviting subject of the Roman
antiquities of Chester to another chapter.
It must have been a noble place in Roman times, with its walls and
streets and houses replete with the usual fittings with which the
Romans used to love to surround themselves. It was a great centre of
traffic, situated on the Watling Street that ran from Richborough,
through Chester to Anglesea, and through Chester to Manchester, York,
and Carlisle. Suetonius pitched his camp at Chester, and Claudius
Cæsar and the Emperor Galba are said to have visited it. The existence
of Julius Cæsar’s Tower will doubtless suggest to the “raw antiquary”
mentioned below a visit of the illustrious conqueror.
When the Roman legions were withdrawn to defend the centre of the
Empire, the British remained masters of the country as far as the
Picts and Scots would permit. Cheshire is far from Kent, where soon
the dreaded Teutonic races made their appearance, and established
their rule over the enfeebled Britons. The country of the Deeside
remained at peace. Caer-Leon, or Caer Leon Vaur[1] as the Britons
called it, heard only the smooth-tongued tones of Celtic speech, and
nothing disturbed its quietude, as far as is known, until in A.D. 613
the fury of war burst upon the British people. Christianity had taught
them many holy lessons of faith. Wales, with Cheshire, was a land of
saints. Bede tells us that the monastery of Bangor, which may have
been the Christian Banchor, about 15 miles from Chester, “flourished
with learned men at the coming of Augustine.” SS. David, Asaph, and
Padern all flourished after the Saxons had occupied England, and the
sixth century saw, not only the foundation of the Welsh bishoprics,
but also of the great Welsh monasteries, which were the especial
glory of the Church in Wales. But the British Christians liked not
Augustine, his haughty ways, and his new-fangled customs, and at a
council refused subjection. So Augustine waxed wroth, and said that
“if they would not preach the way of life to the English, they should
at their hands undergo the vengeance.”
[1] The imagination of the Celtic mind has made Chester the Neomagus,
founded by Magus, son of Samothes, son of Japheth, 240 years after the
Flood. They say a giant named Leon Vaur, a conqueror of the Picts,
built a city here, which was afterwards beautified by two British
princes, Caerleid and Caerleir. But, concludes the chronicler, “they
are but raw antiquaries that will give credit to such relations.”
A terrible storm did burst upon the unhappy people. The heathen King
Ethelfrid of Northumbria came down upon the fair land of Cheshire,
defeated the Britons, captured and destroyed Chester. The monks of
Bangor came in crowds to the battle to offer prayers for the success
of their countrymen, and nearly 1200 of them were slaughtered. Bede,
with his Roman leanings, sees in this slaughter the execution of the
Divine judgment and a fulfilment of Augustine’s prophecy--a suggestion
unworthy of the pious historian. If the Divine wrath was turned
upon the people of Cheshire and the monks, it was soon dispelled.
Ethelfrid’s triumph was of short duration. Soon the gallant Welsh
princes raised an army, marched on Chester, defeated the Northumbrian
King with great slaughter, and elected Cadwan King of Wales at Chester.
For more than a century Cheshire remained under British rule, but
stronger grew the Saxon power, when the rival kingdoms of Mercia and
Wessex had settled their quarrels; and in A.D. 828 King Egbert came to
Cheshire, captured the city, and made the country parts of the Mercian
kingdom. This Mercian kingdom embraced a large extent of country, and
was not divided into shires until the beginning of the tenth century.
The older counties--Kent, Surrey, Sussex, Hants, Wilts, Berkshire,
Dorset, Somerset, Devon, Cornwall, Middlesex, Essex, Suffolk,
Norfolk--some of them representing old kingdoms, are known to have
existed as defined districts in the ninth century. In these the shire
is not named after the chief town except in Hants; but when, in A.D.
912, Mercia was divided, each shire took its name from the county
town. Thus we have Stafford-shire, Worcester-shire, and others, and
Chester-shire or Cheshire. The county then assumed the concrete shape
and size which it has since preserved.
At the end of the ninth century came the first visit of those dread
marauders, the Danes, who carried fire and sword through so many
fair regions of England. From Northumberland they swooped down on
the fields of Cheshire, led by the sea-king Hastings, and “arrived
at a western city in Wirall which is called Lega-ceaster. Then were
the forces [of King Alfred] unable to come up with them before they
were in the fortress; nevertheless they beset the fortress about for
some two days, and took all the cattle that were there without, and
slew the men whom they were able to take without the fortress, and
burned all the corn, and with their horses ate it every morning.”[2]
The Danes liked not this, and were reduced to eating horse-flesh,
and were glad to leave the country and escape to North Wales. The
_Saxon Chronicle_ tells us nothing more of the visits of the Danes.
Higden mentions that at the close of the tenth century the county was
laid waste by pirates, doubtless the sea-rovers, the Danes, but the
evidence of names proves that the Danes were firmly established in the
shire as settlers. By the Peace of Wedmore in A.D. 878, they won from
Alfred all the country east and north of Watling Street, including
the greater part of Cheshire. Indications of their presence are not
so strong as in Lancashire, but these are sufficiently plain to show
they partially colonised the country. There is a church at Chester
dedicated to St. Olave, a Scandinavian king and saint, to whom the
Danish colony in London dedicated a church (Tooley Street in London
is, of course, a corruption of St. Olaf’s Street). All names ending
in _by_ are Danish, of which we have Kirby, Pensby, Irby, Frankby,
Greasby. That the Danes were Christians is proved by such names as
Kirby, Kirkdale, Crosby. But the most remarkable memorial of all is
the name Thingwall, the place where the Folkmote or Thing met. It
is surrounded by several other villages with Scandinavian names on
the small tongue of land between the Dee and the Mersey. Sometimes a
Celtic name is met with, which has survived amid the Saxon and Danish
population, such as Meols, Dove, Llandican, and Inch. Further inland
Saxon names predominate, such as Bebington, Oldfield, Woodchurch,
Upton.
[2] _Anglo-Saxon Chronicle_, A.D. 892; according to other authorities,
894.
Over the poor remains of Mercia that remained to Alfred’s rule he set
the Ealdorman Æthelred, the husband of his daughter Æthelflæd, or
Ethelfleda, a ruler well fitted for his courage to guard against the
inroads of the Danes. He rebuilt Chester, which had been ruinated by
the wars. On his death the government devolved on his spirited widow
of whom Henry of Huntingdon says:
“O potent Ethelfleda, terrible to men,
Whom courage made a king, nature a queen.”
She built a town or fortress at Eddisbury in the forest of Delamere,
and another at Runcorn. The English power grew stronger in the land.
In 920 King Edward the Elder built the city Thelwall on the Mersey,
and placed a garrison there. King Edgar was at Chester in 973, and
received the homage of eight petty kings, or chieftains, Kenneth III.
of Scotland, Malcome of Cumberland, Macon of the Isle of Man, James of
Galloway, Howell of North Wales, Owen of South Wales, and two joint
rulers, Sfreth of South Wales and Inkil of Cumberland. Ralph Higden,
the monk of Chester, relates a story of his having been rowed by them
from his palace to the Church of St. John, and Dean Howson, when
speaking of this church, said:
“As regards the historical associations, it should be observed in
the first place that the water in front of the church is that reach
of the river Dee over which the Saxon King Edgar was rowed in 973 by
eight British chieftains. His landing place is on the rocky ground
immediately under the church, and from the church, on looking down
the river towards the old bridge, can be seen the starting point of
that short but very expressive voyage. The picturesque little chapel
among the foliage is also connected by tradition with Saxon history.
It is said that Harold, having ‘lost hys lefte eye’ in the battle of
Hastings, ‘yescaped to the countrey of Chester and lived there holylie
in St. James’s cell, fast by Saynt John’s Church.’”
This last is, of course, pure legend, but the story of the wonderful
rowing seems to be fully accepted by the Dean, and is not scoffed at by
most Cheshire historians.
When Cnut the Dane ruled over English land, he committed the government
of this part of Mercia to certain chief men with the dignity of Earl,
who were styled Earls of Chester. Only three of these ruled during
the closing years of the Anglo-Saxon period--Leofric, the son of
Leofwin; Algar, the son of Leofric; and Edwin, son of Edgar. Then the
Normans came, and many changes took place in the Cheshire land. The
Conqueror confiscated the estates of the Saxon gentlemen and nobility,
and bestowed them upon his Norman adventurers and followers. He gave
the Earldom of Chester to Gherbod, a noble of Flanders; but he was
compelled to go to his native land, was seized by his enemies, and
retained a prisoner. So the King gave the title to Hugh Lupus, son of
the Viscount of Avranches, his sister’s son, a valiant soldier, whose
efforts were much needed to restrain the tumultuous Welsh. He gave to
the Earl a Palatinate jurisdiction and sovereign power, to be held
under the King in the province over which he ruled. These are the terms
of the grant:
“Tenere totum hunc comitatum sibi et heredibus suis ita liberè ad
gladium ut ipse Rex tenebat Angliæ coronam.”
Hugh Lupus had several barons to assist him in council. These were
Nigel his cousin, Baron of Halton, Constable and Marshal of Chester;
Sir Pierce Malbane, Baron of Nantwich; Robert FitzHugh, Baron of
Malpas; Robert de Vernon, Baron of Shipbrook; Hamon Massey, Baron of
Dunham; Walter de Pointon, Baron of Stockport; and Eustace Crew de
Montalt, Baron of Hawarden.
The stark Earl was as good a Christian as he was a soldier. He sought
the advice of the saintly Anselm, and sent for him from Normandy to
Chester, and so brought to England its future Archbishop of Canterbury.
By his counsel Earl Hugh converted the Nunnery of St. Werburgh into an
Abbey, replacing the nuns by monks of the Benedictine Order. His Welsh
neighbours caused endless trouble. He built a castle at Halton, and
gave the barony to Nigel, on condition that he should be Constable of
Chester, and by the service of leading the vanguard of the Earl’s army
whenever he should march into Wales.
The history of Cheshire during the two centuries after the coming of
the Normans is a record of the incursions of the Welsh, and of the
continued attempts of the English to resist them. The country was
reduced to a deplorable condition. The Welsh raided and ravaged the
lands next their borders. English armies came to Cheshire, consumed
the produce of the farms, and often burned the corn and killed the
live-stock lest the Welsh should seek for plunder. Many of these raids
find no place in history; only those are recorded which were attended
by startling results. We can mention only a few of them. In 1093
they came, led by Griffith ap Conan, and made great slaughter. They
fought a great battle at Nantwich during the rule of Hugh Lupus. In
1121 they made a raid and burned two castles, Shocklach and Malpas,
celebrated for its bad road. In 1150 they came again, but were cut off
on their return at Nantwich. King Henry II. in 1156 came with an army
and encamped on Saltney Marsh. Ten years later he came by sea with
an army to Chester, determining to crush the Welsh by invading their
territory; but his heart failed him, and he abandoned the enterprise.
In 1212 these terrible Welshmen took castles, killed the garrisons,
burned several towns, and returned home rejoicing laden with plunder.
King John marched to Chester determined to punish these outrageous
folk who loved fighting, but he had certain troubles with his barons
which need not be here chronicled; and being assured that if he marched
against the foe he would be either assassinated or handed over to the
tender mercies of the marauders, he preferred to hie him back to
London. Matthew Paris, the old chronicler, tells us much about these
terrible doings--how in 1245 Henry III. tried in vain to conquer them,
and then caused a fearful famine in Cheshire by destroying all the
corn and produce, including the salt pits, lest the Welsh should gain
plunder; how again in 1256 the Welsh invaded the country and ravaged
it to the very gates of the city, and by way of reminder repeated the
process in the next year. Even the stark Prince Edward they defeated,
and King Henry came himself with a mighty army to reduce them to order.
He adopted the usual tactics of burning the provisions of the poor
Cheshire farmers, and was thus hoist on his own petard, as his army
could not find food, and the expedition was abandoned. Then James,
Lord Audley, who on returning from abroad found his castles burnt and
his retainers slaughtered, being mightily enraged, marched into Wales
to slay these terrible folk. He killed many, but he might as well
have tried to sweep back the waves that beat on the Wirral shore. The
pertinacious foe only retaliated and attacked his lands again. And so
the fight went on backwards and forwards, houses and castles being
burnt, men and women slain, crops destroyed, until the whole county
was reduced to a howling, desolate wilderness. The duel between Prince
Llewellyn and Edward I. is well known. The King brought an army to
Chester; the Prince sued for peace, and the expedition was abandoned.
In 1274 the King summoned Llewellyn to a conference at Chester, which
invitation the Prince, perhaps wisely, declined. Instead of coming to a
conference, he made inroads and plundered the country. Then Edward in
1277 marched with a vast army to Chester. He cut great avenues through
the forests, so as to protect his men from ambuscades. He marched into
Wales in triumph. Llewellyn made his submission, but this did not
prevent him from renewing his inroads four years later. At last he was
killed in a skirmish by Lord Mortimer, and the land had rest. Edward
gave to his infant son, born at Carnarvon, the title of Prince of
Wales, and peace at length descended on the hills and vales of Cheshire
which for two hundred years had been complete strangers to it.
Our chronicle of the Welsh wars and plunderings has carried us far
afield, and we must hark back to the line of Earls who ruled over the
harassed Palatinate. When Hugh Lupus died without issue, the Earldom
descended to Ranulph Bohun, who married his sister, Margaret. He took
for his arms three wheat sheaves or in a field azure, which are the
present arms of the city. He was succeeded by his son, Hugh de Bohun,
in 1152, who foolishly joined the rebellious Prince Henry against his
father Henry II., and was sent a prisoner to Normandy. Ranulph III.
succeeded, and earned the title of “the Good.” He founded several
abbeys, fought in the Crusades, and drove the Dauphin Lewis out of
England, who had come to depose King John.
During the Wars of the Barons against Henry III., a battle was fought
between the Earl of Derby and a large force for the barons against the
royal army led by William, Lord Zouche, David, brother to Llewellyn,
and John, Lord Audley, when the Earl was victorious and Chester was
captured in 1264. John, Earl of Chester, adopted a novel expedient to
end the Welsh invasions. He married Helena, the daughter of Llewellyn,
during an interval of peace in order to confirm it. But the lion and
the lamb might as well have mated, and the wild turbulent Princess
proved a strange bride. History records not the differences of that
ill-assorted alliance. Perhaps he tried to tame her too severely.
Perhaps he was but a faint-hearted Petruchio. At any rate she poisoned
him, and, leaving no children, the King took the Earldom into his own
hands and gave it to his eldest son, Prince Edward. When this Prince
was captured by Simon de Montfort, he was forced to relinquish the
Earldom as part of his ransom, but on the triumph of the King’s forces
it reverted again to the Crown.
Richard II., in his troubles with the barons, chose a bodyguard of
2000 Cheshire men, so trusting was he in their loyalty and bravery.
As a reward for their fidelity he made the county a Principality by
Act of Parliament, styling himself _Princeps Cestriæ_, as we have
already noticed. This honour the county did not long enjoy, as Henry
of Lancaster revoked the Act. Not all the men of Cheshire were loyal
to Richard, or were perhaps wearied of him. When the storm burst some
of them, including Sir Richard and Sir John Legh, went over to Henry’s
side. He came to Chester and raised an army there, and executed Sir
Piers Legh, who had remained faithful to Richard. Soon the men of
Chester saw the stern Duke of Lancaster marching into the city, and
behind him rode their unfortunate King, a prisoner in the hands of one
who knew no pity, and soon to be done to death at Pontefract Castle.
Reports were circulated that Richard was still alive. In 1403 the Earl
of Northumberland and Lord Percy, commonly called “Hotspur,” conspired
against Henry IV. and ordered the news that Richard was living to be
proclaimed throughout the county, stating that he could be seen at
Chester Castle. The Cheshire men rallied to their old adherence, and
readily joined the standard of the Northumbrian Earl. Every one knows
the result of the fatal fight fought within sight of Chester walls,
when most of the knights and squires, the flower of Cheshire chivalry,
lay dead on the stricken field. Woeful was the day for Cheshire men.
Henry captured the Baron of Kinderton and Sir Richard Vernon, and
beheaded them. Even some who fought on the King’s side fell in battle,
including Sir John Calveley and Sir John Massey. Moreover, the stern
Henry was wroth against the county, and every man felt that his head
was in jeopardy. But in the following year the King was pleased to
pardon the county, and extracted a fine of 300 marks from the city.
The valour of Cheshire men has shone forth on many a battlefield.
Look at that gallant feat of arms at the battle of Poictiers, when
Lord Audley and his four Cheshire knights, Sir John Delves, Sir
Thomas Dutton, Sir Robert Foulshurst, and Sir John Hawkstone won for
themselves undying fame. Sir Piers Legh of Macclesfield, from whom are
descended the Leighs of Lyme, had the lordship of that place granted
to him for taking the Count of Tankerville prisoner. He was afterwards
slain at Agincourt. But in our unhappy Civil Wars the good gentlemen
of Cheshire were never a united body. They espoused different causes,
ranged themselves under different banners, and so fought against each
other and slew each other. It was so in Richard’s time. It was so at
Blore Heath in 1459, when neighbour fought with neighbour and many
fell, amongst whom were Sir Thomas Dutton, Sir John Done, Sir Hugh
Venables, Sir Richard Molineux, Sir William Troutbeck, Sir John Legh of
Booths, and Sir John Egerton. Thus does Drayton sing of this unhappy
slaughter:--
“Then Dutton Dutton kills; and Done doth kill a Done;
A Booth a Booth; and Leigh by Leigh is overthrown;
A Venables against a Venables doth stand,
A Troutbeck fighteth with a Troutbeck hand to hand:
Then Molineux doth make a Molineux to die;
And Egerton the strength of Egerton doth try.
Oh Cheshire! wert thou mad of thine own native gore,
So much until this day thou never shedd’st before!
Above two thousand men upon the earth were thrown,
Of whom the greatest part were naturally thine own.”
Again, on Flodden Field, the valour of the Cheshire men was proved.
Macclesfield had cause to weep over the slaughter of her sons,
including her brave mayor, Sir Edmund Savage. Again, in the Scottish
War, in 1544, they showed their fighting powers; of the sixty men
knighted at Leith, one-third were gallant Cheshire men.
Before we close this account of the mediæval period, we notice the
shire studded with fine towns and villages, fine churches, and noble
monasteries. Of these we may mention the Monastery of St. Werburgh,
founded by Hugh Lupus at Chester; and the smaller houses of St. John
for secular canons, of St. Francis, a Franciscan monastery founded
by King John and suppressed by Cardinal Wolsey for the founding of
his college at Oxford; and the Nunnery of St. Mary, founded by Earl
Ranulph. At Birkenhead there was a priory of Black Canons founded by
Hano de Massey, Earl of Derby, and dedicated to SS. Mary and James. At
Combermere there was a house of White Monks founded in 1134 by Hugo
Maltana. At Dernhall was a Cistercian house, founded by Edward I. in
performance of a vow which he made for a deliverance at sea. This was
afterwards removed to Vale Royal, and became a large monastery with a
hundred Cistercian monks, and was valued at £32,000. It was consecrated
by the Patriarch of Jerusalem, with the Bishop of Durham and many other
prelates. Another Cistercian monastery was founded by Robert Pincerna
in 1153 at Poulton, and then removed to Dentacres. A Collegiate Church
was established at Macclesfield by Thomas Savage, Archbishop of York,
in 1508. He was born at that place, and this showed his affection for
it. His death prevented him from finishing it, but his heart was buried
there. Mobberley Abbey of the Canons Regular of St. Augustine was
founded by Patrick de Mobberley; a Priory at Norton by William, son of
Nigel, Constable of Chester. He founded also one at Runcorn in 1133,
but afterwards removed it to Norton. Stanlaw Abbey was founded in 1172
by John de Lacy, Constable of Chester, but it was afterwards removed to
Whalley, where the fine ruins testify to its former magnificence.
Such were the principal monastic houses in the county which the decree
of ruthless Henry VIII. doomed to destruction. Chester was one of the
sees founded by him out of the spoils of the monasteries, together with
Bristol, Oxford, Westminster, Gloucester, and Peterborough, and the
Church of the Monastery of St. Werburgh was assigned as a Cathedral.
Previously the Bishop’s Chair was placed in the grand old Church of St.
John, as there were Bishops of Chester in ancient times, as the author
of the _Holy Life of St. Werburgh_ sings:--
“Also the see of Lichfield was translate to Chester
By helpe and suffrance of the bysshop Peter”;
and that good Bishop Peter enlarged the stately Church of St. John,
which dated back to Earl Ethelred and his good wife Ethelfleda. The
story of St. John’s Church is full of fascination, especially when told
by its vicar, Canon Cooper Scott.
Desolation reigned throughout the land when the King’s Commissioners
had stripped the churches and chapels of their valuables and
endowments. The historian of _Vale Royal_, writing of the deserted and
ruined chantries and chapels, states: “Wherein nothing now but the
tune of lacrymæ is sung, crying out mercy, not for sinners, but for
miserable singers, in these days.”
Chester saw the sad burning of George Marsh, a Marian martyr.
The incessant passing of the military connected with the settlement
of the Irish confiscated estates and of soldiers oscillating between
the Low Countries and Ireland, and the constant presence of fierce,
reckless adventurers, kept alive a martial spirit and made the county
extremely lively. The following examples may suffice to show how great
a thoroughfare Chester had become:--
1594.--There came into Chester at several times 2200 footmen and 1000
horsemen to go to Ireland for the suppression of the rebellion of Hugh
Fardorough, Earl of Tyrone. The mayor had much ado to keep the soldiers
quiet, and caused a gibbet to be set up at the high cross whereon three
soldiers had like to be hanged.
1595.--There came to Chester at several times 2400 footmen and 300
horsemen to go to Ireland.
1596.--Nine hundred soldiers came to Chester, whereof 500 were sent
to Ireland, and the rest, staying for a wind, were disbanded and sent
away.
1597.--A thousand footmen and 280 horsemen came at several times and
went into Ireland.
1598.--The Earl of Essex, lieutenant-general for the wars in Ireland,
came into Chester, and with him three other earls, besides many other
lords, knights, and gentlemen, who were honourably received by the
Mayor and his brethren. A great army of soldiers went over to serve in
Ireland, both horsemen and footmen, all under the command of the said
Earl.
1599.--The 14th of February the Lord Mountjoy, Deputy of Ireland, and
with him a great train, dined with the Mayor the 17th of February,
and departed towards Wales the 19th of February to take shipping for
Ireland.
1591.--Many soldiers were this year sent into Ireland.
In 1600 still larger consignments were sent and passed through the
county. We hear of 4000 foot and 200 horse.
[Illustration: View of the City of Chester.]
Soon the bugles of war sounded nearer at hand, and Charles was fighting
against the Parliamentarians. Another pen will describe the horrors
of that fearful war, and of that terrible siege of Chester, when the
loyal inhabitants were nearly starved. We seem to see the ill-fated
monarch watching with sad eyes from the Phœnix Tower on the city wall
the defeat of his troops at Rowton Moor. Cheshire was a vast theatre
of war, and witnessed more fighting than almost any other county. And
sad was the havoc wrought. As in olden days, the gentlemen of Cheshire
were as divided as ever; some were loyal, and others espoused the
cause of the Parliament. Beeston Castle withstood a brave siege, and
was afterwards “slighted” by Cromwell and reduced to its present state
of ruin. Doddington Castle, Crewe Hall, Dorfold Hall, Cholmondeley
Hall, Carden Hall were garrisoned, and endured attacks and sieges.
Nantwich was a stronghold of the Parliamentarians; and even churches,
such as Barthomley and Acton, were garrisoned and besieged. Adlington
Hall, Stockport, Broughton Hall, Malpas, Tarvin, Huxley Hall, Birket
House, Bunbury, and Nether-Legh all saw much fighting, and suffered
from sieges or attacks. A volume would be needed to tell of all
the fightings in Cheshire during that disastrous war. No less than
twenty-two of the great and beautiful houses of the gentlemen of the
shire were destroyed.
The Cheshire folk soon wearied of Cromwell and Puritan ways, and as
early as 1655 several of the principal gentry were imprisoned at
Chester on the charge of disaffection to the Government. Four years
later Sir George Booth, with the Earl of Derby, Lord Cholmondeley, and
others raised 3000 men “to deliver the nation from slavery.” A battle
was fought at Winnington Bridge, near Northwich, but Booth’s forces
were defeated. The Restoration of King Charles in the following year
was but a fulfilment of the design of the Cheshire “Chief of Men.”
The Duke of Monmouth honoured the county with a visit in 1683,
hunting for popularity and representing himself as the champion of
Protestantism against the Roman tendencies of James II. His visit
caused a “No Popery” riot in the Cathedral, when the mob did terrible
damage, broke the font and organ, tore up surplices, destroyed the
glass, and much else. The Duke acted as godfather to the Mayor’s infant
daughter, attended the Wallasey Races, rode his own horse, won the
cup, and presented it to his godchild. The heads of the good citizens
were turned by his graciousness, but that did not prevent them from
ringing the bells of St. John’s Church when the news came of his
defeat at Sedgemoor. He is said to have hatched his insurrection at
Bidston. Henry, Lord Delamere, son of Sir George Booth, was accused of
an intention of raising a troop for the Duke, and had the unpleasant
experience of being tried before the notorious Judge Jefferies, but
strange to say he was acquitted. A few years later came James II., who
heard mass in the little Early English chapel at the Castle. The good
folk of Chester liked not his Roman Catholic ways, and we read the
“King departed from Chester not well pleased with the disposition of
the people.” His course was soon run, and he fled the country.
Again the divided counsels of the Cheshire men were displayed. While
Lord Delamere was raising a great force to support Dutch William,
marching south to meet him, Lord Molyneux and Lord Acton seized Chester
for King James. Happily no fighting was needed.
When James II. landed in Ireland in the spring of 1689 a large army
was collected to oppose him. It was led by the Duke Schomberg, and
suffered severely in camp during the ensuing winter for want of
conveniences and even necessaries. Most of the army encamped for a
week at Neston, and then embarked at Highlake (Hoylake) for Ireland.
There were about a hundred vessels to convey them, and the port and
river must have presented an animated scene. In the following summer
large reinforcements passed through the city at various times, and the
farmers of West Kirkby, Grange, Neston, and Meols made good profits
by entertaining the officers billeted on them. William III. came in
person, the army being encamped on the Wallasey Leasowes. He was
at Chester on Sunday, June 10, attended service at the Cathedral,
and slept at the house of William Glegg, Esquire of Gayton, whom he
afterwards knighted.
Since that time no great events in the annals of England have occurred
to disturb the peace of Cheshire. In subsequent chapters we hope to
record the names of many of Cheshire’s illustrious sons, and of the
great and noble families who have shed lustre on the shire. We shall
roam the countryside, see the traces of the great historic past, note
the beauties of the ancestral houses, the half-timbered mansions, the
red-sandstone farms, and if it be our good fortune to have been born
within its borders, one of Cheshire’s “Chief of Men,” feel no little
proud of our heritage.