CHAPTER XXXII

SCOTT'S (PICCADILLY CIRCUS)

He was the junior subaltern when I commanded H company in the old

regiment, and a very good subaltern he was. It was only the other day

that I read how in one of the first skirmishes in an Indian trouble he

had distinguished himself by standing over a wounded man and keeping

off the hillmen till assistance came; and it seemed strange to meet him

now in crumpled, sun-scorched clothes, with a soft handkerchief round

his neck, and with a very thin white face, walking up the Haymarket.

"They hit me, you know," he said, in answer to a question. "The wound

in my shoulder healed directly, but the wound in the neck gave a lot of

trouble, and the doctors packed me home as soon as they could."

I particularly wanted to hear of the deed that the boy had done, and

asked him to come and dine at a club; but his dress clothes were stored

away somewhere in the Punjab--where, he did not know--with the heavy

baggage of the regiment, and his London tailor had not made him new

ones yet. Besides, he would not be able to put on a collar for weeks,

perhaps months, and though he would be glad to dine quietly with me, he

asked that it might be somewhere where he would not feel uncomfortable

at not being in dress clothes. We were standing at the top of the

Haymarket, my eye caught the two great smoked salmon hung up in Scott's

window, and I asked the junior subaltern if oysters and a lobster _à

l'Américaine_ were to his taste.

He had not eaten any oysters, except the Karachi ones, which are

brought in ice to the towns of the Punjab, since he left England six

years ago; and though he did not know what his surgeon and doctor

would say to his eating lobster, he was prepared to risk their wrath.

Half-past seven was the hour I appointed to meet him, and then I went

into Scott's to secure a table and to order dinner.

Scott's, springing from its ashes, has become a gorgeous place, with

pillars of some material which looks like black marble inlaid with

mother-of-pearl, with stained glass and much ornamentation in worked

brass, and with a great plate-glass window which displays a show of

ice and fish and lobsters and crabs and salad-stuff that looks most

appetising.

Inside, it may be said to be divided into four parts. There is the wide

entrance hall, at either side of which are marble counters with many

plates and little bottles upon them, and piles of sandwiches made with

fish delicacies, and piles of slices of brown bread and butter. Behind

the counters stand men in white samite, who are constantly opening

oysters, and behind them are mirrors with, on shelves above the glass,

piles of little kegs which suggest how suitable a small barrel of

oysters is as a Christmas present. In the midst of this entrance hall

sacred to the oysters a staircase leads down to the lower regions, "The

Dive," as it is labelled, where there are comfortable curved divans

with a little table as the pearl in the midst of these brown leather

shells, and on the walls a Japanese fantasy in tiles where strange fish

swim in and out of weeds. Upstairs on the first floor are the regular

dining-rooms with red blinds, red shades to the electric lamps, and

a warm red paper; and behind the hall, with its oyster bars, is the

grill-room, shut off from draughts by a great screen of glass and brown

wood which reaches from floor to ceiling.

I ordered our dinner in the grill-room. A dozen of oysters, some

mock-turtle soup, _homard à l'Américaine_, and a steak.

At 7.30 to the second the junior subaltern was there, and I smiled

inwardly as I recognised the cut of the Calcutta tailor in his black

coat, well creased by having been jumped on to make it fit into a

bullock trunk.

I took him into the grill-room, where the manager had kept a corner

table for us, and after a look round at the neat little room, with

its mirrors framed in white marble veined with black; its red marble

pilasters with gilt capitals; its grill, at which the white-clothed

cook, with a table of chops and steaks at his elbow, stands; its little

glass case in the corner, in which a lady in black keeps accounts in

big books; its stained glass skylight; its yellowish-brown cornice

with many figures upon it; its many little tables at which stolid and

respectable citizens were giving their wives dinners, or, if alone,

were reading the evening papers: he turned his attention to his oysters.

The first time that a man tastes a native oyster after six years of

exile is a solemn moment, and I would not disturb him while he ate

them; but when there were only empty shells on his plate, and he had

drunk his glass of Chablis, I began to ask questions.

"Tell me all about that day on the spur I have read of, and how you

came to be recommended for the V.C.," I said.

The junior subaltern took a great gulp of the mock turtle and began.

"You remember J. Smith--he was a lance-corporal when you commanded the

company." "Corporal," I amended. "Well, corporal. He did ripping well

that day. He's colour-sergeant of the company now, and there was one

time when, as we were retiring, some of the devils got right on our

flank and enfiladed us. Well, Colour-Sergeant Smith just gave one yell

and went for them, and old Kelly, who used to be your bat-man, and Pat

Grady went with him, and they killed six of the Mamunds."

"My boy," I said, "I want to know what _you_ did, and not what

Colour-Sergeant Smith did."

"This is ripping good soup," said the subaltern.

It was very good soup. The cook, divining that I had an invalid as a

guest, had put a liberal mixture of real turtle with the mock turtle,

and it was practically turtle soup. I had sipped the Beaune, and found

it a little tart, and the manager brought us a fresh bottle before I

opened my second parallel with the advent of a really splendid dish of

lobster.

"I want to know now," I said, with a touch of the manner with which

I used to ask him if all the entries in the small books of his

half-company were brought up to date, "what happened when you stood

over that wounded man, and three big hairy hillmen all made a rush at

you at once, and got to close quarters before the men could get back to

bayonet them."

The junior subaltern was very much occupied with his steak. "Old Major

So-and-So was just senior to you in the regiment?" he asked at last,

and I said that that was so. "Well, he was ripping cool that day, and

he made a joke that the men talked about afterwards. We had destroyed

the mud huts that they called a village, and we were waiting till

the wounded had got well to the rear before retiring. The Major was

in command of our companies that day, for the Colonel was with the

companies in reserve. Well, the Major was sitting on a great rock,

looking at the country----" "What sort of country is it?" I interposed.

"Oh, just mountains and ravines and nullahs, and that sort of thing--a

beastly sort of a place," the subaltern said, believing that he was

conveying the fullest information, and then went on. "Well, the Major

was sitting on the rock smoking that old meerschaum of a nigger's head

which he'd had for years. A bullet came and smashed the pipe to atoms.

He spat out the pipe-stem and then shook his fist at the place where

the shot had come from. 'You blackguards,' he said, 'you're not fit

company for a gentleman to smoke a meerschaum with; I'll only treat you

to clays in future.' Well, the men were amused by this, and----"

"Young man," I said severely, "I knew that pipe, and it is a good

thing it is gone. That steak you have disposed of was good, and these

herring-roes I have ordered for you while you were blathering are

excellent. Eat them, and then get to business at once."

The junior subaltern ate the roes, which were perfect; and when the

coffee and the brandy were brought, he looked at me to see if I was

really in earnest, and began again, "Do you remember James Pilch, who

was the company's cook?"

"No, my boy," I said, "I do not remember James Pilch, nor do I want to.

Waiter, my bill."

The bill was brought. Oysters, 3s.; lobster, 8s.; soup, 2s.; grill,

3s.; vegetables, 6d.; wine, 7s.; bread and butter, 4d.; coffee, 1s.;

liqueurs, 5s.; roes, 2s.; total, £1: 11: 10.

This paid I turned to the subaltern. "Young man," I said, "I am now

going to personally conduct you to the club smoking-room, and if I have

to sit up with you all night with a stick I intend to be told how you

came to be recommended for the V.C."

The junior subaltern groaned.

22_nd November_.

Dinners and Diners: Where and How to Dine in London · 第 32 / 47 章