CHAPTER XXVI

EARL'S COURT

In the morning, with my shaving water, was brought a note in a dashing

feminine handwriting. It was from the little American prima donna to

say she was sorry that she had forgotten, but she was engaged to dine

with some friends who were leaving England, and would I take her out

some other night instead; and she considerately suggested two evenings

on which she should have known that I would be out of town for Goodwood.

I felt inclined to reply, like Uncle Gregory, that I knew those

friends--"they cum fr' Sheffield"; but I did nothing worse than to

write that of course I would take her out with pleasure on the first

evening she had vacant when I came back to town.

I had arranged to drive her down to Earl's Court to give her dinner

at the Quadrant, to take her on to the lawn of the Welcome Club for

coffee and liqueurs, and then to go the round of the side shows. It

is not easy in August to find a lady to take out to dinner at twelve

hours' notice. Mrs. Charlie Sphinx was at Carlsbad, and Miss Dainty

was taking a holiday from the wear and tear of "resting" at some French

watering-place. I sent a note round by a cab to Sir George to ask if I

might take Miss Brighteyes out to dinner; but the man came back saying

that the house was all shut up, and that he could make no one hear.

At the worst, I thought, I could pick up a man at the club; but the

few men in the smoking-room had either to go back to their wives or

had some dinner engagement. So it came that I started alone for Earl's

Court.

I had written for a table to be kept for me at eight o'clock, and

a few minutes before the hour I disembarked at the entrance by the

lake. It was between the lights, and the great white globes aglow with

electricity looked garish against the delicate opal of the sky, and

cast strange reflections on the water. I paused for a moment to listen

to the blue-coated musicians on their island bandstand commencing the

march from "Aïda," and then went past the bronze Gordon on his camel,

past a buffet where a little crowd were dining frugally off sandwiches

and pale ale, over the long bridge, through the gardens, and at last

to the restaurant. In front of the broad awning which stretches before

the restaurant, standing by a red rope, which keeps the public from

coming too near, are two janitors, who, in their dark blue and peaked

caps, look rather like warders: a clerk at a desk, with a big open book

before him, sits opposite to the entrance.

Had I booked a table? the clerk asked me as I came up. Certainly I had.

I had written that I wanted a particularly good table at eight o'clock.

The clerk looked up at a tall gentleman with a reddish beard and

moustache who stood behind him, M. Gerard, Messrs. Spiers and Pond's

manager, and the gentleman with the beard looked at his watch. It was a

quarter-past eight. M. Gerard explained that no tables were kept after

eight, and drew a vivid picture of a well-dressed but famished crowd

standing outside at the red ropes and threatening to tear down the

place if they were not admitted to the vacant places. My table had been

given to an eminently respectable couple who did not look as if they

would tear down anything, and I was about to go over the way to the

Welcome, in wrath, when it was found that there was a table for four,

right up against the barrier, vacant; and I settled down in solitary

dignity at one of the best tables in the place. A smart young waiter,

in white apron and brown coat with pink facings, put the menu in front

of me. I ordered a pint of Deutz and Gelderman to be put in ice, and

then looked round me.

Immediately behind me a party were being entertained by two young

barristers. I could hear but not see them. They were telling legal

stories, and there was one as to Inderwick and the House of Lords

that set their table in a roar. Opposite to me was a little family

of father, mother, and son, and a pretty girl came bustling in to

complete the party, with, from her manner, a tale of misadventure and

delay to be told. A bald-headed, smart-looking soldier, a cavalryman

from his bearing, was giving dinner to a youngster who might be at a

crammer's--they were among the few men wearing evening dress; there

was an engaged couple who gazed into each other's eyes across the

table, and there was a fat gentleman, who I should think was a Jewish

financier, who was giving dinner to a girl with many rows of pearls

round her throat and a glint of diamonds on her dress. The financier

was drinking the girl's health, and as he held back his head to drain

his glass she made, lightning quick, a face at him, which said more

than pages of history.

I had eaten my _hors-d'œuvre_, and the waiter brought me the clear

soup I had chosen. It was not as hot as it should have been; but the

kitchen is some way off from the tables at the far edge of the awning,

and, with one of the most wonderful outlooks in the world, one is not

prepared to be over particular as to cookery.

The opal tints in the sky had died out and had left it a sheet of

steel. On the right the tall white building in which is the panorama

was already shining with electric light; the canvas buttresses and

towers, looking solid enough now, stood black against the grey. In

the bandstand in the centre of the promenade Dan Godfrey and his

crimson-coated musicians were playing a waltz air, and a crowd, dimly

seen, was moving round and round this centre of attraction. The Welcome

Club, with its lighted windows, was away to the left, and, above all,

the Great Wheel, starred with lights, moved its circle very gently and

silently. Men in the half light were running hither and thither with

long sticks with a flame at the end, and lights green, white, and rose

began to twinkle on all sides.

The choice had been given me between _saumon, sauce Rubens_ and _filet

de merlan frit, sauce Ravigote_. I chose the whiting, and had the cook

only been more careful in boning his fish I should have called it

excellent.

The engaged couple had left their table, and a merry party, two

nice-looking girls, a young, clean-shaven man, and a grey-haired _bon

vivant_, had taken their places. The girls, who had evidently come out

to enjoy themselves thoroughly, were laughing already.

The financier had ordered another bottle of champagne; the girl with

the pearls opposite to him, her chin on her fist, was gazing out

at the sky from which the light had faded. A big party, the men in

evening dress, passed through under the awning to the big room of the

restaurant, a room decorated with paintings of Indian gods and heroes

and rajahs, and the red shades of the candles on their table made a

pleasant note of warm colour.

My waiter brought the _pigeon braisé Démidoff_. I looked at it and it

appeared nice; but I sent it away, for I was not hungry, and there were

other dishes still to come.

The sky now was all light indigo, with the clouds deeper patches of the

same colour. All the little lamps in the garden were alight, twinkling

in great curves against the black of the battlements. The bandstand was

outlined with rose: the Welcome Club was ablaze with green: the trees

under all this light had a strange metallic shine. The rays from the

searchlight came sweeping overhead: the Wheel with its circle of stars

still turned solemnly. Amidst all the lights one inscription in green

and white lamps, "Infant Incubator," fixed itself on my attention, and

I found myself wondering what an infant incubator could be like.

The crowd outside had increased in number. There seemed to be many

ladies in white with white hats amongst it; there was occasionally

a gleam of white shirt fronts; little boys in straw hats and Eton

collars dived into the thick, and then reappeared; the programme boys,

in grey Early Victorian dress, came and went. The band was hammering

away at the "Mikado." Two pretty girls in black dresses with wide

white collars, one with a white sailor hat, one with a black one,

paused outside to watch us dining. I should have liked to ask them

in to dine, for I was feeling very lonely, but I remembered British

conventionality, and forbore. The _côtelette d'agneau à la Bellevue_

which the waiter brought me was hot and well cooked, but I do not think

that the chicken, a wing of which succeeded the cutlet, could have

lived a very happy life. I think it must have been consumptive.

The restaurant was beginning to empty now, the guests filing out in

twos and threes, and vanishing into the parti-coloured crowd; and

still the Wheel, with its silent power, turned, and still the "Infant

Incubator" danced before my eyes.

The beans, the ice, and the peach with which I finished my dinner were

all good--I refused the _pouding Victoria_ which was on the menu; and

after sipping my coffee and paying my bill--one dinner, 7s. 6d.; one

pint 239, 6s. 6d.; liqueur, 2s.; total, 16s.--I obeyed an irresistible

impulse and went over to see what an infant incubator was like.

3_rd August_.

Dinners and Diners: Where and How to Dine in London · 第 26 / 47 章