Departure from Chipewyan--Difficulties of the various Navigations
of the Rivers and Lakes, and of the Portages--Slave Lake and Fort
Providence--Scarcity of Provisions, and discontent of the Canadian
Voyagers--Difficulties with regard to the Indian Guides--Refusal to
proceed--Visit of Observation to the Upper part of Copper-Mine
River--Return to the Winter-Quarters of Fort Enterprise.
1820. July 18.
Early this morning the stores were distributed to the three canoes. Our
stock of provision unfortunately did not amount to more than sufficient
for one day's consumption, exclusive of two barrels of flour, three
cases of preserved meats, some chocolate, arrow-root, and portable soup,
which we had brought from England, and intended to reserve for our
journey to the coast the next season. Seventy pounds of moose meat and a
little barley were all that Mr. Smith was enabled to give us. It was
gratifying, however, to perceive that this scarcity of food did not
depress the spirits of our Canadian companions, who cheerfully loaded
their canoes, and embarked in high glee after they had received the
customary dram. At noon we bade farewell to our kind friend Mr. Smith.
The crews commenced a lively paddling song on quitting the shore, which
was continued until we had lost sight of the houses. We soon reached the
western boundary of the lake, and at two entered the Stony River, one of
the discharges of the Athabasca Lake into the Slave River, and having a
favouring current passed swiftly along. This narrow stream is confined
between low swampy banks, which support willows, dwarf birch, and alder.
At five we passed its conflux with the Peace River. The Slave River,
formed by the union of these streams, is about three quarters of a mile
wide. We descended this magnificent river, with much rapidity, and after
passing through several narrow channels, formed by an assemblage of
islands, crossed a spot where the waters had a violent whirling motion,
which, when the river is low, is said to subside into a dangerous rapid;
on the present occasion no other inconvenience was felt than the
inability of steering the canoes, which were whirled about in every
direction by the eddies, until the current carried them beyond their
influence. We encamped at seven, on the swampy bank of the river, but
had scarcely pitched the tents before we were visited by a terrible
thunder-storm; the rain fell in torrents, and the violence of the wind
caused the river to overflow its banks, so that we were completely
flooded. Swarms of musquitoes succeeded the storm, and their tormenting
stings, superadded to other inconveniences, induced us to embark, and,
after taking a hasty supper to pursue our voyage down the stream during
the night.
At six on the following morning we passed the Rein-Deer Islands, and at
ten reached the entrance of the Dog River, where we halted to set the
fishing nets. These were examined in the evening, but to our
mortification we obtained only four small trout, and were compelled to
issue part of our preserved meats for supper. The latitude of the mouth
of Dog River, was observed 59° 52' 16" N.
The nets were taken up at daylight, but they furnished only a solitary
pike. We lost no time in embarking, and crossed the crooked channel of
the Dog Rapid, when two of the canoes came in such violent contact with
each other, that the sternmost had its bow broken off. We were
fortunately near the shore or the disabled canoe would have sunk. The
injury being repaired in two hours, we again embarked, and having
descended another rapid, arrived at the Cassette Portage of four hundred
and sixty paces, over which the cargoes and canoes were carried in about
twenty-six minutes. We next passed through a narrow channel full of
rapids, crossed the Portage d'Embarras of seventy yards; and the portage
of the Little Rock, of three hundred yards, at which another accident
happened to one of the canoes, by the bowman slipping and letting it
fall upon a rock, and breaking it in two. Two hours were occupied in
sewing the detached pieces together, and covering the seam with pitch;
but this being done it was as effective as before. After leaving this
place we soon came to the next portage, of two hundred and seventy-three
paces; and shortly afterwards to the Mountain Portage, of one hundred
and twenty: which is appropriately named, as the path leads over the
summit of a high hill. This elevated situation commands a very grand and
picturesque view, for some miles along the river, which at this part is
about a mile wide.
We next crossed a portage of one hundred and twenty yards; and then the
Pelican Portage, of eight hundred paces. Mr. Back took an accurate
sketch of the interesting scenery which the river presents at this
place. After descending six miles further we came to the last portage on
the route to Slave Lake which we crossed, and encamped in its lower end.
It is called "_The Portage of the Drowned_," and it received that name
from a melancholy accident which took place many years ago. Two canoes
arrived at the upper end of the portage, in one of which there was an
experienced guide. This man judging from the height of the river, deemed
it practicable to shoot the rapid, and determined upon trying it. He
accordingly placed himself in the bow of his canoe, having previously
agreed, that if the passage was found easy, he should, on reaching the
bottom of the rapid, fire a musket, as a signal for the other canoe to
follow. The rapid proved dangerous, and called forth all the skill of
the guide, and the utmost exertion of his crew, and they narrowly
escaped destruction. Just as they were landing, an unfortunate fellow
seizing the loaded fowling-piece, fired at a duck which rose at the
instant. The guide anticipating the consequences, ran with the utmost
haste to the other end of the portage, but he was too late: the other
canoe had pushed off, and he arrived only to witness the fate of his
comrades. They got alarmed in the middle of the rapid, the canoe was
upset, and every man perished.
The various rapids we passed this day, are produced by an assemblage of
islands and rocky ledges, which obstruct the river, and divide it into
many narrow channels. Two of these channels are rendered still more
difficult by accumulations of drift timber; a circumstance which has
given a name to one of the portages. The rocks which compose the bed of
the river, and the numerous islands, belong to the granite formation.
The distance made to-day was thirteen miles.
_July 21_.--We embarked at four A.M. and pursued our course down the
river. The rocks cease at the last portage; and below it the banks are
composed of alluvial soil, which is held together by the roots of trees
and shrubs that crown their summits. The river is about a mile wide, and
the current is greatly diminished. At eight we landed at the mouth of
the Salt River, and pitched our tents, intending to remain there that
and the next day for the purpose of fishing. After breakfast, which made
another inroad on our preserved meats, we proceeded up the river in a
light canoe, to visit the salt springs, leaving a party behind to attend
the nets. This river is about one hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its
waters did not become brackish until we had ascended it seven or eight
miles; but when we had passed several rivulets of fresh water which
flowed in, the main stream became very salt, at the same time
contracting its width to fifteen or twenty yards. At a distance of
twenty-two miles, including the windings of the river, the plains
commence. Having pitched the tent at this spot, we set out to visit the
principal springs, and had walked about three miles when the musquitoes
compelled us to give up our project. We did not see the termination of
the plains toward the east, but on the north and west they are bounded
by an even ridge, about six or seven hundred feet in height. Several
salt springs issue from the foot of this ridge, and spread their waters
over the plain, which consists of tenacious clay. During the summer much
evaporation takes place, and large heaps of salt are left behind
crystallized in the form of cubes. Some beds of grayish compact gypsum
were exposed on the sides of the hills.
The next morning after filling some casks with salt for our use during
winter, we embarked to return, and had descended the river a few miles,
when turning round a point, we perceived a buffalo plunge into the river
before us. Eager to secure so valuable a prize, we instantly opened a
fire upon him from four muskets, and in a few minutes he fell, but not
before he had received fourteen balls. The carcass was towed to the
bank, and the canoe speedily laden with meat. After this piece of good
fortune, we descended the stream merrily, our voyagers chanting their
liveliest songs. On arrival at the mouth of the river, we found that our
nets had not produced more than enough to supply a scanty meal to the
men whom we had left behind, but this was now of little importance, as
the acquisition of meat we had made would enable us to proceed without
more delay to Slave Lake. The _poisson inconnu_ mentioned by Mackenzie,
is found here. It is a species of the Genus Salmo, and is said by the
Indians to ascend from the Arctic Sea, but being unable to pass the
cascade of the Slave River, is not found higher than this place. In the
evening a violent thunder-storm came on with heavy rain, thermometer
70°.
At a very early hour on the following morning we embarked, and continued
to paddle against a very strong wind and high waves, under the shelter
of the bank of the rivers, until two P.M., when having arrived at a more
exposed part of the stream, the canoes took in so much water that we
were obliged to disembark on a small island. The river here is from one
mile and a quarter to one mile and three quarters wide. Its banks are of
moderate height, sandy, and well wooded.
_July 24_.--We made more progress notwithstanding the continuance of the
wind. The course of the river is very winding, making in one place a
circuit of seven or eight miles round a peninsula, which is joined to
the west bank by a narrow isthmus. Near the foot of this elbow, a long
island occupies the centre of the river, which it divides into two
channels. The longitude was obtained near to it 113° 25' 36", and
variation 27° 25' 14" N.,{51} and the latitude 60° 54' 52" N., about
four miles farther down. We passed the mouth of a broad channel leading
to the north-east, termed La Grande Rivière de Jean, one of the two
large branches by which the river pours its waters into the Great Slave
Lake; the flooded _delta_ at the mouth of the river is intersected by
several smaller channels, through one of which, called the Channel of
the Scaffold, we pursued our voyage on the following morning, and by
eight A.M. reached the establishment of the North-West Company on
Moose-Deer Island. We found letters from Mr. Wentzel, dated Fort
Providence, a station on the north side of the lake, which communicated
to us, that there was an Indian guide waiting for us at that post; but,
that the chief and the hunters, who were to accompany the party, had
gone to a short distance to hunt, having become impatient at our delay.
Soon after landing, I visited the Hudson's Bay Post on the same island,
and engaged Pierre St. Germain, an interpreter for the Copper Indians.
We regretted to find the posts of both the Companies extremely bare of
provision; but as the gentlemen in charge had despatched men on the
preceding evening, to a band of Indians, in search of meat, and they
promised to furnish us with whatever should be brought, it was deemed
advisable to wait for their return, as the smallest supply was now of
importance to us. Advantage was taken of the delay to repair effectually
the canoe, which had been broken in the Dog Rapid. On the next evening
the men arrived with the meat, and enabled Mr. McCleod{52}, of the
North-West Company, to furnish us with four hundred pounds of dried
provisions. Mr. McVicar, of the Hudson's Bay Company, also supplied one
hundred and fifty pounds. This quantity we considered would be
sufficient, until we could join the hunters. We also obtained three
fishing-nets, a gun, and a pair of pistols, which were all the stores
these posts could furnish, although the gentlemen in charge were much
disposed to assist us.
Moose-Deer Island is about a mile in diameter, and rises towards the
centre about three hundred feet above the lake. Its soil is in general
sandy, in some parts swampy. The varieties of the northern berries grow
abundantly on it. The North-West Company's Fort is in latitude 61° 11'
8" N.; longitude 113° 51' 37" W., being two hundred and sixty statute
miles distant from Fort Chipewyan, by the river course. The variation
of the compass is 25° 40' 47" E. The houses of the two Companies are
small, and have a bleak northern aspect. There are vast accumulations of
drift wood on the shores of the lake, brought down by the river, which
afford plenty of fuel. The inhabitants live principally on the fish,
which the lake at certain seasons furnishes in great abundance; of
these, the white fish, trout, and _poisson inconnu_ are considered the
best. They also procure moose, buffalo, and rein-deer meat occasionally
from their hunters; but these animals are generally found at the
distance of several days' walk from the forts. The Indians who trade
here are Chipewyans. Beavers, martens, foxes, and musk-rats, are caught
in numbers in the vicinity of this great body of water. The musquitoes
here were still a serious annoyance to us, but less numerous than
before. They were in some degree replaced by a small sandfly, whose bite
is succeeded by a copious flow of blood, and considerable swelling, but
is attended with incomparably less irritation, than the puncture of the
musquito.
On the 27th of July we embarked at four A.M., and proceeded along the
south shore of the lake, through a narrow channel, formed by some
islands, beyond the confluence of the principal branch of the Slave
River; and as far as Stony Island, where we breakfasted. This island is
merely a rock of gneiss, that rises forty or fifty feet above the lake,
and is precipitous on the north side. As the day was fine, and the lake
smooth, we ventured upon paddling across to the Rein-Deer Islands, which
were distant about thirteen miles in a northern direction, instead of
pursuing the usual track by keeping further along the south shore which
inclines to the eastward from this point. These islands are numerous,
and consist of granite, rising from one hundred to two hundred feet
above the water. They are for the most part naked; but towards the
centres of the larger ones, there is a little soil, and a few groves of
pines. At seven in the evening we landed upon one of them, and encamped.
On the following morning we ran before a strong breeze, and a heavy
swell, for some hours, but at length were obliged to seek shelter on a
large island adjoining to Isle à la Cache of Mackenzie, where the
following observations were obtained: latitude 61° 50' 18" N., longitude
113° 21' 40" W., and variation 31° 2' 06" E.
The wind and swell having subsided in the afternoon, we re-embarked and
steered towards the western point of the Big-Island of Mackenzie, and
when four miles distant from it, had forty-two fathoms soundings.
Passing between this island and a promontory of the main shore, termed
Big Cape, we entered into a deep bay, which receives the waters from
several rivers that come from the northward; and we immediately
perceived a decrease in the temperature of the waters from 59° to 48°.
We coasted along the eastern side of the bay, its western shore being
always visible, but the canoes were exposed to the hazard of being
broken by the numerous sunken rocks, which were scattered in our track.
We encamped for the night on a rocky island, and by eight A.M. on the
following morning, arrived at Fort Providence, which is situated
twenty-one miles from the entrance of the bay. The post is exclusively
occupied by the North-West Company, the Hudson's Bay Company having no
settlement to the northward of Great Slave Lake. We found Mr. Wentzel
and our interpreter Jean Baptiste Adam here, with one of the Indian
guides: but the chief of the tribe and his hunters were encamped with
their families, some miles from the fort, in a good situation for
fishing. Our arrival was announced to him by a fire on the top of a
hill, and before night a messenger came to communicate his intention of
seeing us next morning. The customary present, of tobacco and some other
articles, was immediately sent to him.
Mr. Wentzel prepared me for the first conference with the Indians by
mentioning all the information they had already given to him. The duties
allotted to this gentleman were, the management of the Indians, the
superintendence of the Canadian voyagers, the obtaining, and the general
distribution, of the provision, and the issue of the other stores. These
services he was well qualified to perform, having been accustomed to
execute similar duties, during a residence of upwards of twenty years in
this country. We also deemed Mr. Wentzel to be a great acquisition to
our party, as a check on the interpreters, he being one of the few
traders who speak the Chipewyan language.
As we were informed that external appearances made lasting impressions
on the Indians, we prepared for the interview by decorating ourselves in
uniform, and suspending a medal round each of our necks. Our tents had
been previously pitched and over one them a silken union flag was
hoisted. Soon after noon, on July 30th, several Indian canoes were seen
advancing in a regular line, and on their approach, the chief was
discovered in the headmost, which was paddled by two men. On landing at
the fort, the chief assumed a very grave aspect, and walked up to Mr.
Wentzel with a measured and dignified step, looking neither to the
right nor to the left, at the persons who had assembled on the beach to
witness his debarkation, but preserving the same immoveability of
countenance until he reached the hall, and was introduced to the
officers. When he had smoked his pipe, drank a small portion of spirits
and water himself, and issued a glass to each of his companions, who had
seated themselves on the floor, he commenced his harangue, by mentioning
the circumstances that led to his agreeing to accompany the Expedition,
an engagement which he was quite prepared to fulfil. He was rejoiced, he
said, to see such great chiefs on his lands; his tribe were poor, but
they loved white men who had been their benefactors; and he hoped that
our visit would be productive of much good to them. The report which
preceded our arrival, he said, had caused much grief to him. It was at
first rumoured that a great medicine chief accompanied us, who was able
to restore the dead to life; at this he rejoiced; the prospect of again
seeing his departed relatives had enlivened his spirits, but his first
communication with Mr. Wentzel had removed these vain hopes, and he felt
as if his friends had a second time been torn from him. He now wished to
be informed exactly of the nature of our expedition.
In reply to this speech, which I understood had been prepared for many
days, I endeavoured to explain the objects of our mission in a manner
best calculated to ensure his exertions in our service. With this view,
I told him that we were sent out by the greatest chief in the world, who
was the sovereign also of the trading companies in the country; that he
was the friend of peace, and had the interest of every nation at heart.
Having learned that his children in the north, were much in want of
articles of merchandize, in consequence of the extreme length and
difficulty of the present route; he had sent us to search for a passage
by the sea, which if found, would enable large vessels to transport
great quantities of goods more easily to their lands. That we had not
come for the purpose of traffic, but solely to make discoveries for
their benefit, as well as that of every other people. That we had been
directed to inquire into the nature of all the productions of the
countries we might pass through, and particularly respecting their
inhabitants. That we desired the assistance of the Indians in guiding
us, and providing us with food; finally, that we were most positively
enjoined by the great chief to recommend that hostilities should cease
throughout this country; and especially between the Indians and the
Esquimaux, whom he considered his children, in common with other
natives; and by way of enforcing the latter point more strongly, I
assured him that a forfeiture of all the advantages which might be
anticipated from the Expedition would be a certain consequence if any
quarrel arose between his party and the Esquimaux. I also communicated
to him that owing to the distance we had travelled, we had now few more
stores than was necessary for the use of our own party, a part of{53}
these, however, should be forthwith presented to him; on his return he
and his party, should be remunerated with cloth, ammunition, tobacco,
and some useful iron materials, besides having their debts to the
North-West Company discharged.
The chief, whose name is Akaitcho or Big-foot, replied by a renewal of
his assurances, that he and his party would attend us to the end of our
journey, and that they would do their utmost to provide us with the
means of subsistence. He admitted that his tribe had made war upon the
Esquimaux, but said they were now desirous of peace, and unanimous in
their opinion as to the necessity of all who accompanied us abstaining
from every act of enmity against that nation. He added, however, that
the Esquimaux were very treacherous, and therefore recommended that we
should advance towards them with caution.
The communications which the chief and the guides then gave respecting
the route to the Copper-Mine River, and its course to the sea, coincided
in every material point with the statements which were made by Boileau
and Black-meat at Chipewyan, but they differed in their descriptions
of the coast. The information, however, collected from both sources was
very vague and unsatisfactory. None of his tribe had been more than
three days' march along the sea-coast to the eastward of the river's
mouth.
As the water was unusually high this season, the Indian guides
recommended our going by a shorter route to the Copper-Mine River than
that they had first proposed to Mr. Wentzel, and they assigned as a
reason for the change, that the rein-deer would be sooner found upon
this track. They then drew a chart of the proposed route on the floor
with charcoal, exhibiting a chain of twenty-five small lakes extending
towards the north, about one half of them connected by a river which
flows into Slave Lake, near Fort Providence. One of the guides, named
Keskarrah, drew the Copper-Mine River, running through the Upper Lake,
in a westerly direction towards the Great Bear Lake, and then northerly
to the sea. The other guide drew the river in a straight line to the sea
from the above-mentioned place, but, after some dispute, admitted the
correctness of the first delineation. The latter was elder brother to
Akaitcho, and he said that he had accompanied Mr. Hearne on his journey,
and though very young at the time, still remembered many of the
circumstances, and particularly the massacre committed by the Indians on
the Esquimaux.
They pointed out another lake to the southward of the river, about three
days' journey distant from it, on which the chief proposed the next
winter's establishment should be formed, as the rein-deer would pass
there in the autumn and spring. Its waters contained fish, and there was
a sufficiency of wood for building as well as for the winter's
consumption. These were important considerations, and determined me in
pursuing the route they now proposed. They could not inform us what time
we should take in reaching the lake, until they saw our manner of
travelling in the large canoes, but they supposed we might be about
twenty days, in which case I entertained the hope that if we could then
procure provision we should have time to descend the Copper-Mine River
for a considerable distance if not to the sea itself, and return to the
lake before the winter set in.
It may here be proper to mention that it had been my original plan to
descend the Mackenzie's River, and to cross the Great Bear Lake from
the eastern side of which, Boileau informed me, there is a communication
with the Copper-Mine River by four small lakes and portages, but, under
our present circumstances, this course could not be followed, because it
would remove us too far from the establishments at the Great Slave Lake,
to receive the supplies of ammunition and some other stores in the
winter which were absolutely necessary for the prosecution of our
journey, or to get the Esquimaux interpreter, whom we expected. If I had
not deemed these circumstances paramount I should have preferred the
route by Bear Lake.
Akaitcho and the guides having communicated all the information they
possessed on the different points to which our questions had been
directed, I placed my medal round the neck of the chief, and the
officers presented theirs to an elder brother of his and the two guides,
communicating to them that these marks of distinction were given as
tokens of our friendship and as pledges of the sincerity of our
professions. Being conferred in the presence of all the hunters their
acquisition was highly gratifying to them, but they studiously avoided
any great expression of joy, because such an exposure would have been
unbecoming the dignity which the senior Indians assume during a
conference. They assured us, however, of their being duly sensible of
these tokens of our regard, and that they should be preserved during
their lives with the utmost care. The chief evinced much penetration and
intelligence during the whole of this conversation, which gave us a
favourable opinion of his intellectual powers. He made many inquiries
respecting the Discovery ships, under the command of Captain Parry,
which had been mentioned to him, and asked why a passage had not been
discovered long ago, if one existed. It may be stated that we gave a
faithful explanation to all his inquiries, which policy would have
prompted us to do if a love of truth had not; for whenever these
northern nations detect a falsehood in the dealings of the traders, they
make it an unceasing subject of reproach, and their confidence is
irrecoverably lost.
We presented to the chief, the two guides, and the seven hunters, who
had engaged to accompany us, some cloth, blankets, tobacco, knives,
daggers, besides other useful iron materials, and a gun to each; also a
keg of very weak spirits and water, which they kept until the evening,
as they had to try their guns before dark, and make the necessary
preparations for commencing the journey on the morrow. They, however,
did not leave us so soon, as the chief was desirous of being present,
with his party, at the dance, which was given in the evening to our
Canadian voyagers. They were highly entertained by the vivacity and
agility displayed by our companions in their singing and dancing: and
especially by their imitating the gestures of a Canadian, who placed
himself in the most ludicrous postures; and, whenever this was done, the
gravity of the chief gave way to violent bursts of laughter. In return
for the gratification Akaitcho had enjoyed, he desired his young men to
exhibit the Dog-Rib Indian dance; and immediately they ranged themselves
in a circle, and, keeping their legs widely separated, began to jump
simultaneously sideways; their bodies were bent, their hands placed on
their hips, and they uttered forcibly the interjection _tsa_ at each
jump. Devoid as were their attitudes of grace, and their music of
harmony, we were much amused by the novelty of the exhibition.
In the midst of this scene an untoward accident occurred, which for a
time interrupted our amusements. The tent in which Dr. Richardson and I
lodged, having caught fire from some embers that had been placed in it
to expel the musquitoes, was entirely burnt. Hepburn, who was sleeping
within it, close to some powder, most providentially awoke in time to
throw it clear of the flame, and rescue the baggage, before any material
injury had been received. We dreaded the consequences of this disaster
upon the fickle minds of the Indians, and wished it not to be
communicated to them. The chief, however, was soon informed of it by one
of his people, and expressed his desire that no future misfortune should
be concealed from him. We found he was most concerned to hear that the
flag had been burnt, but we removed his anxiety on that point, by the
assurance that it could easily be repaired. We were advised by Mr.
Wentzel to recommence the dancing after this event, lest the Indians
should imagine, by our putting a stop to it, that we considered the
circumstance as an unfavourable commencement of our undertaking. We
were, however deeply impressed with a grateful sense of the Divine
Providence, in averting the threatened destruction of our stores, which
would have been fatal to every prospect of proceeding forward this
season.
_August 1_.--This morning the Indians set out, intending to wait for us
at the mouth of the Yellow-Knife River. We remained behind to pack our
stores, in bales of eighty pounds each, an operation which could not be
done in the presence of these Indians, as they are in the habit of
begging for every thing they see. Our stores consisted of two barrels of
gunpowder, one hundred and forty pounds of ball and small shot, four
fowling-pieces, a few old trading guns, eight pistols, twenty-four
Indian daggers, some packages of knives, chisels, axes, nails, and
fastenings for a boat; a few yards of cloth, some blankets, needles,
looking-glasses, and beads; together with nine fishing-nets, having
meshes of different sizes. Our provision was two casks of flour, two
hundred dried rein-deer tongues, some dried moose-meat, portable soup,
and arrow-root, sufficient in the whole for ten days' consumption,
besides two cases of chocolate, and two canisters of tea. We engaged
another Canadian voyager at this place, and the Expedition then
consisted of twenty-eight persons, including the officers, and the wives
of three of our voyagers, who were brought for the purpose of making
shoes and clothes for the men at the winter establishment; there were
also three children, belonging to two of these women[18].
[18] The following is the list of the officers and men who composed
the Expedition on its departure from Fort Providence:
John Franklin, Lieutenant of the Royal Navy and Commander.
John Richardson, M.D., Surgeon of the Royal Navy.
Mr. George Back, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman.
Mr. Robert Hood, of the Royal Navy, Admiralty Midshipman.
Mr. Frederick Wentzel, Clerk to the North-West Company.
John Hepburn, English seaman.
CANADIAN VOYAGERS.
Joseph Peltier,
Matthew Pelonquin, dit Crèdit,
Solomon Belanger,
Joseph Benoit,
Joseph Gagné,
Pierre Dumas,
Joseph Forcier,
Ignace Perrault,
Francois Samandré,
Gabriel Beauparlant,
Vincenza Fontano,
Registe Vaillant,
Jean Baptiste Parent,
Jean Baptiste Belanger,
Jean Baptiste Belleau,
Emanuel Cournoyée,
Michel Teroahauté, an Iroquois.
INTERPRETERS.
Pierre St. Germain,
Jean Baptiste Adam,
Chipewyan Bois Brulés.
Our observations place Fort Providence in latitude 62° 17' 19" N.,
longitude 114° 9' 28" W.; the variation of the compass is 33° 35' 55"
E., and dip of the needle 86° 38' 02". It is distant from Moose-Deer
Island sixty-six geographic miles. This is the last establishment of the
traders in this direction, but the North-West Company have two to the
northward of it, on the Mackenzie River. It has been erected for the
convenience of the Copper and Dog-Rib Indians, who generally bring such
a quantity of rein-deer meat that the residents are enabled, out of
their superabundance, to send annually some provision to the fort at
Moose-Deer Island. They also occasionally procure moose and buffalo
meat, but these animals are not numerous on this side of the lake. Few
furs are collected. _Les poissons inconnus_, trout, pike, carp, and
white-fish are very plentiful, and on these the residents principally
subsist. Their great supply of fish is procured in the latter part of
September and the beginning of October, but there are a few taken daily
in the nets during the winter. The surrounding country consists almost
entirely of coarse grained granite, frequently enclosing large masses of
reddish felspar. These rocks form hills which attain an elevation of
three hundred or four hundred feet, about a mile behind the house; their
surface is generally naked, but in the valleys between them grow a few
spruce, aspen, and birch trees, together with a variety of shrubs and
berry-bearing plants.
On the afternoon of the 2d of August we commenced our journey, having,
in addition to our three canoes, a smaller one to convey the women; we
were all in high spirits, being heartily glad that the time had at
length arrived when our course was to be directed towards the
Copper-Mine River, and through a line of country which had not been
previously visited by any European. We proceeded to the northward, along
the eastern side of a deep bay of the lake, passing through various
channels, formed by an assemblage of rocky islands; and, at sunset,
encamped on a projecting point of the north main shore, eight miles
from Fort Providence. To the westward of this arm, or bay, of the lake,
there is another deep bay, that receives the waters of a river, which
communicates with Great Marten Lake, where the North-West Company had
once a post established. The eastern shores of the Great Slave Lake are
very imperfectly known: none of the traders have visited them, and the
Indians give such loose and unsatisfactory accounts, that no estimation
can be formed of its extent in that direction. These men say there is a
communication from its eastern extremity by a chain of lakes, with a
shallow river, which discharges its waters into the sea. This stream
they call the Thlouee-tessy{54}, and report it to be navigable for
Indian canoes only. The forms of the south and western shores are better
known from the survey of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, and in consequence of
the canoes having to pass and repass along these borders annually,
between Moose-Deer Island and Mackenzie's River. Our observations made
the breadth of the lake, between Stony Island, and the north main shore,
sixty miles less than it is laid down in Arrowsmith's map; and there is
also a considerable difference in the longitude of the eastern side of
the bay, which we entered.
This lake, owing to its great depth, is seldom completely frozen over
before the last week in November, and the ice, which is generally seven
feet thick, breaks up about the middle of June, three weeks later than
that of the Slave River. The only known outlet to this vast body of
water, which receives so many streams on its north and south shores, is
the Mackenzie's River.
_August 3_.--We embarked at three A.M. and proceeded to the entrance of
the Yellow-Knife River of the traders, which is called by the natives
Beg-ho-lo-dessy; or, River of the Toothless Fish. We found Akaitcho, and
the hunters with their families, encamped here. There were also several
other Indians of his tribe, who intended to accompany us some distance
into the interior. This party was quickly in motion after our arrival,
and we were soon surrounded by a fleet of seventeen Indian canoes. In
company with them we paddled up the river, which is one hundred and
fifty yards wide, and, in an hour, came to a cascade of five feet, where
we were compelled to make a portage of one hundred and fifty-eight
yards. We next crossed a dilatation of the river, about six miles in
length, upon which the name of Lake Prosperous was bestowed. Its shores,
though scantily supplied with wood, are very picturesque.
Akaitcho caused himself to be paddled by his slave, a young man, of the
Dog-Rib nation, whom he had taken by force from his friends; when he
thought himself, however, out of reach of our observation, he laid aside
a good deal of his state, and assisted in the labour; and after a few
days further acquaintance with us, he did not hesitate to paddle in our
presence, or even carry his canoe on the portages. Several of the canoes
were managed by women, who proved to be noisy companions, for they
quarrelled frequently, and the weakest was generally profuse in her
lamentations, which were not at all diminished, when the husband
attempted to settle the difference by a few blows with his paddle.
An observation, near the centre of the lake, gave 114° 13' 39" W., and
33° 8' 06" E., variation.
Leaving the lake, we ascended a very strong rapid, and arrived at a
range of three steep cascades, situated in the bend of the river. Here
we made a portage of one thousand three hundred yards over a rocky hill,
which received the name of the Bowstring Portage, from its shape. We
found that the Indians had greatly the advantage of us in this
operation; the men carried their small canoes, the women and children
the clothes and provisions, and at the end of the portage they were
ready to embark; whilst it was necessary for our people to return four
times, before they could transport the weighty cargo with which we were
burdened. After passing through another expansion of the river, and over
the Steep Portage of one hundred and fifteen yards, we encamped on a
small rocky isle, just large enough to hold our party, and the Indians
took possession of an adjoining rock. We were now thirty miles from Fort
Providence.
As soon as the tents were pitched, the officers and men were divided
into watches for the night; a precaution intended to be taken throughout
the journey, not merely to prevent our being surprised by strangers, but
also to shew our companions that we were constantly on our guard. The
chief who suffered nothing to escape his observation, remarked, "that he
should sleep without anxiety among the Esquimaux, for he perceived no
enemy could surprise us."
After supper we retired to rest, but our sleep was soon interrupted by
the Indians joining in loud lamentations over a sick child, whom they
supposed to be dying. Dr. Richardson, however, immediately went to the
boy, and administered some medicine which relieved his pain, and put a
stop to their mourning. The temperatures, this day, were at four A.M.,
54°, three P.M. 72°, at seven P.M. 65°.
On the 4th we crossed a small lake, and passed in succession over the
Blue Berry Cascade, and Double Fall Portages, where the river falls over
ridges of rocks that completely obstruct the passage for canoes. We came
to three strong rapids beyond these barriers, which were surmounted by
the aid of the poles and lines, and then to a bend of the river in which
the cascades were so frequent, that to avoid them we carried the canoes
into a chain of small lakes. We entered them by a portage of nine
hundred and fifty paces, and during the afternoon traversed three other
grassy lakes and encamped on the banks of the river, at the end of the
Yellow-Knife Portage, of three hundred and fifty paces. This day's work
was very laborious to our men. Akaitcho, however, had directed his party
to assist them in carrying their burdens on the portages, which they did
cheerfully. This morning Mr. Back caught several fish with a fly, a
method of fishing entirely new to the Indians; and they were not more
delighted than astonished at his skill and success. The extremes of
temperature to-day{55} were 54° and 65°.
On August 5th we continued the ascent of the river which varied much in
breadth as did the current in rapidity. It flows between high rocky
banks on which there is sufficient soil to support pines, birch, and
poplars. Five portages were crossed, then the Rocky Lake, and we
finished our labours at the end of the sixth portage. The issue of dried
meat for breakfast this morning had exhausted all our stock; and no
other provision remained but the portable soups, and a few pounds of
preserved meat. At the recommendation of Akaitcho, the hunters were
furnished with ammunition, and desired to go forward as speedily as
possible, to the part where the rein-deer were expected to be found; and
to return to us with any provision they could procure. He also assured
us that in our advance towards them we should come to lakes abounding in
fish. Many of the Indians being likewise in distress for food, decided
on separating from us, and going on at a quicker pace than we could
travel.
Akaitcho himself was always furnished with a portion at our meals, as a
token of regard which the traders have taught the chiefs to expect, and
which we willingly paid.
The next morning we crossed a small lake and a portage, before we
entered the river; shortly afterwards, the canoes and cargoes were
carried a mile along its banks, to avoid three very strong rapids, and
over another portage into a narrow lake; we encamped on an island in the
middle of it, to set the nets; but they only yielded a few fish, and we
had a very scanty supper, as it was necessary to deal out our provision
sparingly. The longitude 114° 27' 03" W. and variation{56} 33° 04" E.,
were observed.
We had the mortification of finding the nets entirely empty next
morning, an untoward circumstance that discouraged our voyagers very
much; and they complained of being unable to support the fatigue to
which they were daily exposed, on their present scanty fare. We had seen
with regret that the portages were more frequent as we advanced to the
northward, and feared that their strength would fail, if provision were
not soon obtained. We embarked at six, proceeded to the head of the
lake, and crossed a portage of two thousand five hundred paces, leading
over ridges of sand-hills, which nourished pines of a larger size than
we had lately seen. This conducted us to Mossy Lake, whence we regained
the river, after traversing another portage. The Birch and Poplar
Portages next followed, and beyond these we came to a part where the
river takes a great circuit, and its course is interrupted by several
heavy falls. The guide, therefore, advised us to quit it, and proceed
through a chain of nine lakes extending to the north-east, which we
did, and encamped on Icy Portage, where the nets were set. The bottom of
the valley, through which the track across this portage led, was covered
with ice four or five feet thick, the remains of a large iceberg, which
is annually formed there, by the snow drifting into the valley, and
becoming consolidated into ice by the overflowing of some springs that
are warm enough to resist the winter's cold. The latitude is 63° 22' 15"
N., longitude 114° 15' 30" W.
We were alarmed in the night by our fire communicating to the dry moss,
which, spreading by the force of a strong wind, encircled the encampment
and threatened destruction to our canoes and baggage. The watch
immediately aroused all the men, who quickly removed whatever could be
injured to a distant part, and afterwards succeeded in extinguishing the
flame.
_August 8_.--During this day we crossed five portages, passing over a
very bad road. The men were quite exhausted with fatigue by five P.M.,
when we were obliged to encamp on the borders of the fifth lake, in
which the fishing nets were set. We began this evening to issue some
portable soup and arrow-root, which our companions relished very much;
but this food is too unsubstantial to support their vigour under their
daily exhausting labour, and we could not furnish them with a sufficient
quantity even of this to satisfy their desires. We commenced our labours
on the next day in a very wet uncomfortable state, as it had rained
through the night until four A.M. The fifth grassy lake was crossed, and
four others, with their intervening portages, and we returned to the
river by a portage of one thousand four hundred and fifteen paces. The
width of the stream here is about one hundred yards, its banks are
moderately high and scantily covered with wood. We afterwards twice
carried the cargoes along its banks to avoid a very stony rapid, and
then crossed the first Carp Portage in longitude 114° 2' 01" W.,
variation of the compass 32° 30' 40" E., and encamped on the borders of
Lower Carp Lake.
The chief having told us that this was a good lake for fishing, we
determined on halting for a day or two to recruit our men, of whom three
were lame, and several others had swelled legs. The chief himself went
forward to look after the hunters, and promised to make a fire as a
signal if they had killed any rein-deer. All the Indians had left us in
the course of yesterday and to-day to seek these animals, except the
guide Keskarrah.
_August 10_.--The nets furnishing only four carp, we embarked for the
purpose of searching for a better spot, and encamped again on the shores
of the same lake. The spirits of the men were much revived by seeing
some recent traces of rein-deer at this place, which circumstance caused
them to cherish the hope of soon getting a supply of meat from the
hunters. They were also gratified by finding abundance of blue berries
near the encampment, which made an agreeable and substantial addition to
their otherwise scanty fare. We were teased by sand-flies this evening,
although the thermometer did not rise above 45°. The country through
which we had travelled for some days consists principally of granite,
intermixed in some spots with mica-slate, often passing into clay-slate.
But the borders of Lower Carp Lake, where the gneiss formation prevails,
are composed of hills, having less altitude, fewer precipices, and more
rounded summits. The valleys are less fertile, containing a gravelly
soil and fewer trees; so that the country has throughout a more barren
aspect.
_August 11_.--Having caught sufficient trout, white-fish, and carp,
yesterday and this morning, to afford the party two hearty meals, and
the men having recovered their fatigue, we proceeded on our journey,
crossed the Upper Carp Portage, and embarked on the lake of that name,
where we had the gratification of paddling for ten miles. We put up at
its termination to fish, by the advice of our guide, and the following
observations were then taken: longitude 113° 46' 35" W., variation of
the compass 36° 45' 30" E., dip 87° 11' 48". At this place we first
perceived the north end of our dipping-needle to pass the perpendicular
line when the instrument was faced to the west.
We had scarcely quitted the encampment next day before an Indian met us,
with the agreeable communication, that the hunters had made several
fires, which were certain indications of their having killed rein-deer.
This intelligence inspired our companions with fresh energy, and they
quickly traversed the next portage, and paddled through the Rein-Deer
Lake; at the north side of it we found the canoes of our hunters, and
learned from our guide, that the Indians usually leave their canoes
here, as the water communication on their hunting grounds is bad. The
Yellow-Knife River had now dwindled into an insignificant rivulet, and
we could not trace it beyond the next lake, except as a mere brook. The
latitude of its source 64° 1' 30" N., longitude 113° 36' W., and its
length is one hundred and fifty-six statute miles. Though this river is
of sufficient breadth and depth for navigating in canoes, yet I
conceive its course is too much interrupted by cascades and rapids for
its ever being used as a channel for the conveyance of merchandise.
Whilst the crews were employed in making a portage over the foot of
Prospect Hill, we ascended to the top of it, and as it is the highest
ground in the neighbourhood, its summit, which is about five hundred
feet above the water, commands an extensive view.
Akaitcho, who was here with his family, pointed out to us the smoke of
the distant fires which the hunters had made. The prospect is agreeably
diversified by an intermixture of hill and valley, and the appearance of
twelve lakes in different directions. On the borders of these lakes a
few thin pine groves occur, but the country in general is destitute of
almost every vegetable, except a few berry-bearing shrubs and lichens,
and has a very barren aspect. The hills are composed of gneiss, but
their acclivities are covered with a coarse gravelly soil. There are
many large loose stones both on their sides and summits composed of the
same materials as the solid rock.
We crossed another lake in the evening, encamped, and set the nets. The
chief made a large fire to announce our situation to the hunters.
_August 13_.--We caught twenty fish this morning, but they were small,
and furnished but a scanty breakfast for the party. Whilst this meal was
preparing, our Canadian voyagers, who had been for some days past
murmuring at their meagre diet, and striving to get the whole of our
little provision to consume at once, broke out into open discontent, and
several of them threatened they would not proceed forward unless more
food was given to them. This conduct was the more unpardonable, as they
saw we were rapidly approaching the fires of the hunters, and that
provision might soon be expected. I, therefore, felt the duty incumbent
on me to address them in the strongest manner on the danger of
insubordination, and to assure them of my determination to inflict the
heaviest punishment on any that should persist in their refusal to go
on, or in any other way attempt to retard the Expedition. I considered
this decisive step necessary, having learned from the gentlemen, most
intimately acquainted with the character of the Canadian voyagers, that
they invariably try how far they can impose upon every new master, and
that they will continue to be disobedient and intractable if they once
gain any ascendency over him. I must admit, however, that the present
hardships of our companions were of a kind which few could support
without murmuring, and no one could witness without a sincere pity for
their sufferings.
After this discussion we went forward until sunset. In the course of the
day we crossed seven lakes and as many portages. Just as we had encamped
we were delighted to see four of the hunters arrive with the flesh of
two rein-deer. This seasonable supply, though only sufficient for this
evening's and the next day's consumption, instantly revived the spirits
of our companions, and they immediately forgot all their cares. As we
did not, after this period, experience any deficiency of food during
this journey, they worked extremely well, and never again reflected upon
us as they had done before, for rashly bringing them into an
inhospitable country, where the means of subsistence could not be
procured.
Several blue fish, resembling the grayling, were caught in a stream
which flows out of Hunter's Lake. It is remarkable for the largeness of
the dorsal fin and the beauty of its colours.
_August 14_.--Having crossed the Hunter's Portage, we entered the Lake
of the same name, in latitude 64° 6' 47" N., longitude 113° 25' 00" W;
but soon quitted it by desire of the Indian guide, and diverged more to
the eastward that we might get into the line upon which our hunters had
gone. This was the only consideration that could have induced us to
remove to a chain of small lakes connected by long portages. We crossed
three of these, and then were obliged to encamp to rest the men. The
country is bare of wood except a few dwarf birch bushes, which grow near
the borders of the lakes, and here and there a few stunted pines; and
our fuel principally consisted of the roots of decayed pines, which we
had some difficulty to collect in sufficient quantity for cooking. When
this material is wanting, the rein-deer lichen and other mosses that
grow in profusion on the gravelly acclivities of the hills are used as
substitutes. Three more of the hunters arrived with meat this evening,
which supply came very opportunely as our nets were unproductive. At
eight P.M., a faint Aurora Borealis appeared to the southward, the night
was cold, the wind strong from N.W.
We were detained some time in the following morning before the
fishing-nets, which had sunk in the night, could be recovered.
After starting we first crossed the Orkney Lake, then a portage which
brought us to Sandy Lake, and here we missed one of our barrels of
powder, which the steersman of the canoe then recollected had been left
the day before. He and two other men were sent back to search for it, in
the small canoe. The rest of the party proceeded to the portage on the
north side of the Grizzle-Bear Lake, where the hunters had made a
deposit of meat, and there encamped to await their return, which
happened at nine P.M., with the powder. We perceived from the direction
of this lake, that considerable labour would have been spared if we had
continued our course yesterday instead of striking off at the guide's
suggestion, as the bottom of this lake cannot be far separated from
either Hunter's Lake or the one to the westward of it. The chief and all
the Indians went off to hunt, accompanied by Pierre St. Germain, the
interpreter. They returned at night, bringing some meat, and reported
that they had put the carcases of several rein-deer _en cache_. These
were sent for early next morning, and as the weather was unusually warm,
the thermometer, at noon, being 77°, we remained stationary all day,
that the women might prepare the meat for keeping, by stripping the
flesh from the bones and drying it in the sun over a slow fire. The
hunters were again successful, and by the evening we had collected the
carcases of seventeen deer. As this was a sufficient store to serve us
until we arrived at Winter Lake, the chief proposed that he and his
hunters should proceed to that place and collect some provision against
our arrival. He also requested that we would allow him to be absent ten
days to provide his family with clothing, as the skin of the rein-deer
is unfit for that purpose after the month of September. We could not
refuse to grant such a reasonable request, but caused St. Germain to
accompany him, that his absence might not exceed the appointed time.
Previous to his departure the chief warned us to be constantly on our
guard against the grizzly bears, which he described as being numerous in
this vicinity, and very ferocious; one had been seen this day by an
Indian, to which circumstance the lake owes its appellation. We
afterwards learned that the only bear in this part of the country is the
brown bear, and that this by no means possesses the ferocity which the
Indians, with their usual love of exaggeration, ascribe to it. The
fierce grizzly bear, which frequents the sources of the Missouri, is not
found on the barren grounds.
The shores of this lake and the neighbouring hills are principally
composed of sand and gravel; they are much varied in their outline and
present some picturesque scenery.
The following observations were taken here: latitude 64° 15' 17" N.,
longitude 113° 2' 39" W.; variation of the compass 36° 50' 47" E.; and
dip of the needle 87° 20' 35".
On August the 17th, having finished drying the meat, which had been
retarded by the heavy showers of rain that fell in the morning, we
embarked at one P.M. and crossed two lakes and two portages. The last of
these was two thousand and sixty-six paces long, and very rugged, so
that the men were much fatigued. On the next day we received the flesh
of four rein-deer by the small canoe which had been sent for it, and
heard that the hunters had killed several more deer on our route. We saw
many of these animals as we passed along; and our companions, delighted
with the prospect of having food in abundance, now began to accompany
their paddling with singing, which they had discontinued ever since our
provisions became scarce. We passed from one small lake to another over
four portages, then crossed a lake about six miles in diameter, and
encamped on its border, where, finding pines, we enjoyed the luxury of a
good fire, which we had not done for some days. At ten P.M. the Aurora
Borealis appeared very brilliant in an arch across the zenith, from
north-west to south-east, which afterwards gave place to a beautiful
corona borealis.
_August 19_.--After crossing a portage of five hundred and ninety-five
paces, a small lake and another portage of two thousand paces, which
occupied the crews seven hours, we embarked on a small stream, running
towards the north-west, which carried us to the lake, where Akaitcho
proposed that we should pass the winter. The officers ascended several
of the loftiest hills in the course of the day, prompted by a natural
anxiety to examine the spot which was to be their residence for many
months. The prospect, however, was not then the most agreeable, as the
borders of the lake seemed to be scantily furnished with wood, and that
of a kind too small for the purposes of building.
We perceived the smoke of a distant fire which the Indians suppose had
been made by some of the Dog-ribbed tribe, who occasionally visit this
part of the country.
Embarking at seven next morning, we paddled to the western extremity of
the lake, and there found a small river, which flows out of it to the
S.W. To avoid a strong rapid at its commencement, we made a portage, and
then crossed to the north bank of the river, where the Indians
recommended that the winter establishment should be erected, and we soon
found that the situation they had chosen possessed all the advantages we
could desire. The trees were numerous, and of a far greater size than we
had supposed them to be in a distant view, some of the pines being
thirty or forty feet high, and two feet in diameter at the root. We
determined on placing the house on the summit of the bank, which
commands a beautiful prospect of the surrounding country. The view in
the front is bounded at the distance of three miles, by round-backed
hills; to the eastward and westward lie the Winter and Round-rock Lakes,
which are connected by the Winter River, whose banks are well clothed
with pines, and ornamented with a profusion of mosses, lichens, and
shrubs.
In the afternoon we read divine service, and offered our thanksgiving to
the Almighty for his goodness in having brought us thus far on our
journey; a duty which we never neglected, when stationary on the
sabbath.
The united length of the portages we had crossed, since leaving Fort
Providence, is twenty-one statute miles and a half; and as our men had
to traverse each portage four times, with a load of one hundred and
eighty pounds, and return three times light, they walked in the whole
upwards of one hundred and fifty miles. The total length of our voyage
from Chipewyan is five hundred and fifty-three miles[19].
[19] Statute Miles.
Stony and Slave Rivers 260
Slave Lake 107
Yellow-Knife River 156.5
Barren country between the source of the
Yellow-Knife River and Fort Enterprise 29.5
-----
553
A fire was made on the south side of the river to inform the chief of
our arrival, which spreading before a strong wind, caught the whole
wood, and we were completely enveloped in a cloud of smoke for the three
following days.
On the next morning our voyagers were divided into two parties, the one
to cut the wood for the building of a store-house, and the other to
fetch the meat as the hunters procured it. An interpreter was sent with
Keskarrah, the guide, to search for the Indians who had made the fire
seen on Saturday, from whom we might obtain some supplies of provision.
An Indian was also despatched to Akaitcho, with directions for him to
come to this place directly, and bring whatever provision he had as we
were desirous of proceeding, without delay, to the Copper-Mine River. In
the evening our men brought in the carcases of seven rein-deer, which
two hunters had shot yesterday, and the women commenced drying the meat
for our journey. We also obtained a good supply of fish from our nets
to-day.
A heavy rain, on the 23d, prevented the men from working, either at the
building, or going for meat; but on the next day the weather was fine,
and they renewed their labours. The thermometer, that day did not rise
higher than 42°, and it fell to 31° before midnight. On the morning of
the 25th, we were surprised by some early symptoms of the approach of
winter; the small pools were frozen over, and a flock of geese passed to
the southward. In the afternoon, however, a fog came on, which
afterwards changed into rain, and the ice quickly disappeared. We
suffered great anxiety all the next day respecting John Hepburn, who had
gone to hunt before sunrise on the 25th, and had been absent ever since.
About four hours after his departure the wind changed, and a dense fog
obscured every mark by which his course to the tents could be directed,
and we thought it probable he had been wandering in an opposite
direction to our situation, as the two hunters, who had been sent to
look for him, returned at sunset without having seen him. Akaitcho
arrived with his party, and we were greatly disappointed at finding they
had stored up only fifteen rein-deer for us. St. Germain informed us,
that having heard of the death of the chief's brother-in-law, they had
spent several days in bewailing his loss, instead of hunting. We learned
also, that the decease of this man had caused another party of the
tribe, who had been sent by Mr. Wentzel to prepare provision for us on
the banks of the Copper-Mine River, to remove to the shores of the Great
Bear Lake, distant from our proposed route. Mortifying as these
circumstances were, they produced less painful sensations than we
experienced in the evening, by the refusal of Akaitcho to accompany us
in the proposed descent of the Copper-Mine River. When Mr. Wentzel, by
my direction, communicated to him my intention of proceeding at once on
that service, he desired a conference with me upon the subject, which
being immediately granted, he began, by stating, that the very attempt
would be rash and dangerous, as the weather was cold, the leaves were
falling, some geese had passed to the southward, and the winter would
shortly set in; and that, as he considered the lives of all who went on
such a journey would be forfeited, he neither would go himself, nor
permit his hunters to accompany us. He said there was no wood within
eleven days' march, during which time we could not have any fire, as the
moss, which the Indians use in their summer excursions, would be too wet
for burning, in consequence of the recent rains; that we should be forty
days in descending the Copper-Mine River, six of which would be expended
in getting to its banks, and that we might be blocked up by the ice in
the next moon; and during the whole journey the party must experience
great suffering for want of food, as the rein-deer had already left the
river.
He was now reminded that these statements were very different from the
account he had given, both at Fort Providence and on the route hither;
and that, up to this moment, we had been encouraged by his conversation
to expect that the party might descend the Copper-Mine River,
accompanied by the Indians. He replied, that at the former place he had
been unacquainted with our slow mode of travelling, and that the
alteration in his opinion arose from the advance of winter.
We now informed him that we were provided with instruments by which we
could ascertain the state of the air and water, and that we did not
imagine the winter to be so near as he supposed; however, we promised to
return on discovering the first change in the season. He was also told
that all the baggage being left behind, our canoes, would now, of
course, travel infinitely more expeditiously than any thing he had
hitherto witnessed. Akaitcho appeared to feel hurt, that we should
continue to press the matter further, and answered with some warmth:
"Well, I have said every thing I can urge, to dissuade you from going on
this service, on which, it seems, you wish to sacrifice your own lives,
as well as the Indians who might attend you: however, if after all I
have said, you are determined to go, some of my young men shall join
the party, because it shall not be said that we permitted you to die
alone after having brought you hither; but from the moment they embark
in the canoes, I and my relatives shall lament them as dead."
We could only reply to this forcible appeal, by assuring him and the
Indians who were seated around him, that we felt the most anxious
solicitude for the safety of every individual, and that it was far from
our intention to proceed without considering every argument for and
against the proposed journey.
We next informed him, that it would be very desirable to see the river
at any rate, that we might give some positive information about its
situation and size, in our next letters to the Great Chief; and that we
were very anxious to get on its banks, for the purpose of observing an
eclipse of the sun, which we described to him, and said would happen in
a few days. He received this communication with more temper than the
preceding, though he immediately assigned as a reason for his declining
to go, that "the Indians must now procure a sufficient quantity of
deer-skins for winter clothing for themselves, and dresses for the
Canadians, who would need them if they had to travel in the winter."
Finding him so averse to proceed, and feeling at the same time, how
essential his continuance with us was, not only to our future success,
but even to our existence during the winter, I closed the conversation
here, intending to propose to him next morning, some modification of the
plan, which might meet his approbation. Soon after we were gone,
however, he informed Mr. Wentzel, with whom he was in the habit of
speaking confidentially, that as his advice was neglected, his presence
was useless, and he should, therefore, return to Fort Providence with
his hunters, after he had collected some winter provision for us. Mr.
Wentzel having reported this to me, the night was passed in great
anxiety, and after weighing all the arguments that presented themselves
to my mind, I came reluctantly to the determination of relinquishing the
intention of going any distance down the river this season. I had
considered, that could we ascertain what were the impediments to the
navigation of the Copper-Mine{57} River, what wood grew on its banks, if
fit for boat building, and whether drift timber existed where the
country was naked, our operations next season would be much facilitated;
but we had also cherished the hope of reaching the sea this year, for
the Indians in their conversations with us, had only spoken of two great
rapids as likely to obstruct us. This was a hope extremely painful to
give up; for, in the event of success, we should have ascertained
whether the sea was clear of ice, and navigable for canoes; have learned
the disposition of the Esquimaux; and might have obtained other
information that would have had great influence on our future
proceedings.
I must confess, however, that my opinion of the probability of our being
able to attain so great a desideratum this season had been somewhat
altered by the recent changes in the weather, although, had the chief
been willing to accompany us with his party, I should have made the
attempt; with the intention, however, of returning immediately upon the
first decided appearance of winter.
On the morning of August 27th, having communicated my sentiments to the
officers, on the subject of the conference last evening, they all agreed
that the descent to the sea this season could not be attempted, without
hazarding a complete rupture with the Indians; but they thought that a
party should be sent to ascertain the distance and size of the
Copper-Mine River. These opinions, being in conformity with my own, I
determined on despatching Messrs. Back and Hood on that service, in a
light canoe, as soon as possible.
We witnessed this morning an instance of the versatility of our Indian
companions, which gave us much uneasiness, as it regarded the safety of
our faithful attendant Hepburn. When they heard, on their arrival last
night, of his having been so long absent, they expressed the greatest
solicitude about him, and the whole party immediately volunteered to go
in search of him as soon as daylight permitted. Their resolutions,
however, seem to have been changed, in consequence of the subsequent
conversation we had with the chief, and we found all of them indisposed
to proceed on that errand this morning; and it was only by much
entreaty, that three of the hunters and a boy were prevailed upon to go.
They fortunately succeeded in their search, and we were infinitely
rejoiced to see Hepburn return with them in the afternoon, though much
jaded by the fatigue he had undergone. He had got bewildered, as we had
conjectured, in the foggy weather on the 25th, and had been wandering
about ever since, except during half an hour that he slept yesterday. He
had eaten only a partridge and some berries, for his anxiety of mind had
deprived him of appetite; and of a deer which he had shot, he took only
the tongue, and the skin to protect himself from the wind and rain. This
anxiety, we learned from him, was occasioned by the fear that the party
which was about to descend the Copper-Mine River, might be detained
until he was found, or that it might have departed without him. He did
not entertain any dread of the white bears, of whose numbers and
ferocious attacks the Indians had been constantly speaking, since we had
entered the barren grounds. Our fears for his safety, however, were in a
considerable degree excited by the accounts we had received of these
animals. Having made a hearty supper he retired to rest, slept soundly,
and arose next morning in perfect health.
On the 28th of August Akaitcho was informed of our intention to send a
party to the river, and of the reasons for doing so, of which he
approved, when he found that I had relinquished the idea of going
myself, in compliance with the desire which he and the Indians had
expressed; and he immediately said two of the hunters should go to
provide them with food on the journey, and to serve as guides. During
this conversation we gathered from him, for the first time, that there
might still be some of his tribe near to the river, from whom the party
could get provision. Our next object was to despatch the Indians to
their hunting-ground to collect provision for us, and to procure the fat
of the deer for our use during the winter, and for making the pemmican
we should require in the spring. They were therefore furnished with
some ammunition, clothing, and other necessary articles, and directed to
take their departure as soon as possible.
Akaitcho came into our tent this evening at supper, and made several
pertinent inquiries respecting the eclipse, of which we had spoken last
night. He desired to know the effect that would be produced, and the
cause of it, which we endeavoured to explain; and having gained this
information, he sent for several of his companions, that they might also
have it repeated to them. They were most astonished at our knowing the
time at which this event should happen, and remarked that this knowledge
was a striking proof of the superiority of the whites over the Indians.
We took advantage of this occasion to speak to them respecting the
Supreme Being, who ordered all the operations of nature, and to impress
on their minds the necessity of paying strict attention to their moral
duties, in obedience to his will. They readily assented to all these
points, and Akaitcho assured us that both himself and his young men
would exert themselves in obtaining provision for us, in return for the
interesting communications we had just made to them.
Having received a supply of dried meat from the Indian lodges, we were
enabled to equip the party for the Copper-Mine River, and at nine A.M.,
on the 29th, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood embarked on that service in a light
canoe, with St. Germain, eight Canadians and one Indian. We could not
furnish them with more than eight days' provision, which, with their
blankets, two tents, and a few instruments, composed their lading. Mr.
Back, who had charge of the party, was directed to proceed to the river,
and if, when he arrived at its banks, the weather should continue to be
mild, and the temperature of the water was not lower than 40°, he might
embark, and descend the stream for a few days to gain some knowledge of
its course, but he was not to go so far as to risk his being able to
return to this place in a fortnight with the canoe. But, if the weather
should be severe, and the temperature of the water below 40°, he was not
to embark, but return immediately, and endeavour to ascertain the best
track for our goods to be conveyed thither next spring.
We had seen that the water decreases rapidly in temperature at this
season, and I feared that, if he embarked to descend the river when it
was below 40°, the canoe might be frozen in, and the crew have to walk
back in very severe weather.
As soon as the canoes had started, Akaitcho and the Indians took their
departure also, except two of the hunters, who staid behind to kill
deer in our neighbourhood, and old Keskarrah and his family, who
remained as our guests.
The fishing-nets were this day transferred from the river in which they
had been set since our arrival, to Winter Lake, whither the fish had
removed, and the fishermen built a log-hut on its borders to reside in,
that they might attend more closely to their occupation.
The month of September commenced with very disagreeable weather. The
temperature of the atmosphere ranged between 39° and 31° during the
first three days, and that of the water in the river decreased from 49°
to 44°. Several rein-deer and a large flight of white geese passed to
the southward. These circumstances led us to fear for the comfort, if
not for the safety, of our absent friends. On the 4th of September we
commenced building our dwelling-house, having cut sufficient wood for
the frame of it.
In the afternoon of September the 6th, we removed our tent to the summit
of a hill, about three miles distant, for the better observing the
eclipse, which was calculated to occur on the next morning. We were
prevented, however, from witnessing it by a heavy snow-storm, and the
only observation we could then make was to examine whether the
temperature of the atmosphere altered during the eclipse, but we found
that both the mercurial and spirit thermometers remained steadily at
30° for a quarter of an hour previous to its commencement, during its
continuance, and for half an hour subsequent to its termination; we
remarked the wind increased very much, and the snow fell in heavier
flakes just after the estimated time of its commencement. This
boisterous weather continued until three P.M., when the wind abated, and
the snow changed to rain.
As there was now no immediate occasion for my remaining on the spot, the
eclipse being over, and the Indians having removed to their
hunting-grounds, Dr. Richardson and I determined on taking a pedestrian
excursion to the Copper-Mine River, leaving Mr. Wentzel in charge of the
men, and to superintend the buildings. On the morning of September the
9th we commenced our journey, under the guidance of old Keskarrah, and
accompanied by John Hepburn and Samandré, who carried our blankets,
cooking utensils, hatchets, and a small supply of dried meat. Our guide
led us from the top of one hill to the top of another, making as
straight a course to the northward as the numerous lakes, with which the
country is intersected, would permit. At noon we reached a remarkable
hill, with precipitous sides, named by the Copper Indians the Dog-rib
Rock, and its latitude, 64° 34' 52" S.{58}, was obtained. The
canoe-track passes to the eastward of this rock, but we kept to the
westward, as being the more direct course. From the time we quitted the
banks of Winter River we saw only a few detached clumps of trees; but
after we passed Dog-rib Rock even these disappeared, and we travelled
through a naked country. In the course of the afternoon Keskarrah killed
a rein-deer, and loaded himself with its head and skin, and our men
also carried off a few pounds of its flesh for supper; but their loads
were altogether too great to permit them to take much additional weight.
Keskarrah offered to us as a great treat the raw marrow from the hind
legs of the animal, of which all the party ate except myself, and
thought it very good. I was also of the same opinion, when I
subsequently conquered my then too fastidious taste. We halted for the
night on the borders of a small lake, which washed the base of a ridge
of sand-hills, about three hundred feet high, having walked in direct
distance sixteen miles.
There were four ancient pine-trees here which did not exceed six or
seven feet in height, but whose branches spread themselves out for
several yards, and we gladly cropped a few twigs to make a bed and to
protect us from the frozen ground, still white from a fall of snow which
took place in the afternoon. We were about to cut down one of these
trees for firewood, but our guide solicited us to spare them, and made
us understand by signs that they had been long serviceable to his
nation, and that we ought to content ourselves with a few of the smaller
branches. As soon as we comprehended his request we complied with it,
and our attendants having, with some trouble, grubbed up a sufficient
quantity of the roots of the dwarf birch to make a fire, we were enabled
to prepare a comfortable supper of rein-deer's meat, which we despatched
with the appetites which travelling in this country never fails to
ensure. We then stretched ourselves out on the pine brush, and covered
by a single blanket, enjoyed a night of sound repose. The small quantity
of bed-clothes we carried induced us to sleep without undressing. Old
Keskarrah followed a different plan; he stripped himself to the skin,
and having toasted his body for a short time over the embers of the
fire, he crept under his deer-skin and rags, previously spread out as
smoothly as possible, and coiling himself up in a circular form, fell
asleep instantly. This custom of undressing to the skin even when lying
in the open air is common to all the Indian tribes. The thermometer at
sunset stood at 29°.
Resuming our journey next morning we pursued a northerly course, but had
to make a considerable circuit round the western ends of two lakes
whose eastern extremities were hidden from our view. The march was very
uncomfortable as the wind was cold, and there was a constant fall of
snow until noon; our guide too persisted in taking us over the summit of
every hill that lay in the route, so that we had the full benefit of the
breeze.
We forded two streams in the afternoon flowing between small lakes, and
being wet, did not much relish having to halt, whilst Keskarrah pursued
a herd of rein-deer; but there was no alternative, as he set off and
followed them without consulting our wishes. The old man loaded himself
with the skin, and some meat of the animal he killed, in addition to his
former burden; but after walking two miles, finding his charge too heavy
for his strength, he spread the skin on the rock, and deposited the meat
under some stones, intending to pick them up on our return.
We put up at sunset on the borders of a large lake, having come twelve
miles. A few dwarf birches afforded us but a scanty fire, yet being
sheltered from the wind by a sandy bank, we passed the night
comfortably, though the temperature was 30°. A number of geese passed
over us to the southward. We set off early next morning, and marched at
a tolerably quick pace. The atmosphere was quite foggy, and our view
was limited to a short distance. At noon, the sun shone forth for a few
minutes, and the latitude 64° 57' 7" was observed. The small streams
that we had hitherto crossed run uniformly to the southward.
At the end of sixteen miles and a half we encamped amongst a few dwarf
pines, and were much rejoiced at having a good fire, as the night was
very stormy and cold. The thermometer fluctuated this day between 31°
and 35°. Though the following morning was foggy and rainy, we were not
sorry to quit the cold and uncomfortable beds of rock upon which we had
slept, and commence our journey at an early hour. After walking about
three miles, we passed over a steep sandy ridge, and found the course of
the rivulets running towards the north and north-west. Our progress was
slow in the early part of the morning, and we were detained for two
hours on the summit of a hill exposed to a very cold wind, whilst our
guide went in an unsuccessful pursuit of some rein-deer. After walking a
few miles farther, the fog cleared away, and Keskarrah pointed out the
Copper-Mine River at a distance, and we pushed towards it with all the
speed we could put forth. At noon we arrived at an arm of Point Lake,
an extensive expansion of the river, and observed the latitude 65° 9'
06" N. We continued our walk along the south end of this arm for about a
mile further, and then halted to breakfast amidst a cluster of pines.
Here the longitude, 112° 57' 25", was observed. After breakfast we set
out and walked along the east-side of the arm towards the main body of
the lake, leaving Samandré to prepare an encampment amongst the pines
against our return. We found the main channel deep, its banks high and
rocky, and the valleys on its borders interspersed with clusters of
spruce-trees. The latter circumstance was a source of much gratification
to us. The temperature of its surface water was 41°, that of the air
being 43°. Having gained all the information we could collect from our
guide and from personal observation, we retraced our steps to the
encampment; and on the way back Hepburn and Keskarrah shot several
waveys (_anas hyperborea_) which afforded us a seasonable supply, our
stock of provision being nearly exhausted. These birds were feeding in
large flocks on the crow-berries, which grew plentifully on the sides of
the hills. We reached the encampment after dark, found a comfortable hut
prepared for our reception, made an excellent supper, and slept soundly
though it snowed hard the whole night.
The hills in this neighbourhood are higher than those about Fort
Enterprise; they stand, however, in the same detached manner, without
forming connected ranges; and the bottom of every valley is occupied,
either by a small lake or a stony marsh. On the borders of such of these
lakes as communicate with the Copper-Mine River, there are a few groves
of spruce-trees, generally growing on accumulations of sand, on the
acclivities of the hills.
We did not quit the encampment on the morning of September 13th until
nine o'clock, in consequence of a constant fall of snow; but at that
hour we set out on our return to Fort Enterprise, and taking a route
somewhat different from the one by which we came, kept to the eastward
of a chain of lakes. Soon after noon the weather became extremely
disagreeable; a cold northerly gale came on, attended by snow and sleet;
and the temperature fell very soon from 43° to 34°. The waveys, alarmed
at the sudden change, flew over our heads in great numbers to a milder
climate. We walked as quickly as possible to get to a place that would
furnish some fuel and shelter; but the fog occasioned us to make
frequent halts, from the inability of our guide to trace his way. At
length we came to a spot which afforded us plenty of dwarf birches, but
they were so much frozen, and the snow fell so thick, that upwards of
two hours were wasted in endeavouring to make a fire; during which time
our clothes were freezing upon us. At length our efforts were crowned
with success, and after a good supper, we laid, or rather sat down to
sleep; for the nature of the ground obliged us to pass the night in a
demi-erect position, with our backs against a bank of earth. The
thermometer was 16° at six P.M.
After enjoying a more comfortable night's rest than we had expected, we
set off at day-break: the thermometer then standing at 18°. The ground
was covered with snow, the small lakes were frozen, and the whole scene
had a wintry appearance. We got on but slowly at first, owing to an old
sprained ancle, which had been very troublesome to me for the last three
days, and was this morning excessively painful. In fording a rivulet,
however, the application of cold water gave me immediate relief, and I
walked with ease the remainder of the day. In the afternoon we rejoined
our track outwards and came to the place where Keskarrah had made his
deposit of provision, which proved a very acceptable supply, as our
stock was exhausted. We then crossed some sand hills, and encamped
amidst a few small pines, having walked thirteen miles.
The comfort of a good fire made us soon insensible to the fatigue we had
experienced through the day, in marching over the rugged stones, whose
surface was rendered slippery by the frost. The thermometer at seven
P.M. stood at 27°.
We set off at sunrise next morning, and our provision being expended
pushed on as fast as we could to Fort Enterprise, where we arrived at
eight P.M., almost exhausted by a harassing day's march of twenty-two
miles. A substantial supper of rein-deer steaks soon restored our
vigour. We had the happiness of meeting our friends Mr. Back and Mr.
Hood, who had returned from their excursion on the day succeeding that
on which we set out; and I received from them the following account of
their journey.
They proceeded up the Winter River to the north end of the Little Marten
Lake, and then the guide, being unacquainted with the route by water to
the Copper-Mine River, proposed that the canoe should be left. Upon this
they ascended the loftiest hill in the neighbourhood, to examine whether
they could discover any large lakes, or water communication in the
direction where the guide described the river to be. They only saw a
small rivulet, which was too shallow for the canoe, and also wide of the
course; and as they perceived the crew would have to carry it over a
rugged hilly track, they judiciously decided on leaving it, and
proceeding forward on foot. Having deposited the canoe among a few dwarf
birch bushes, they commenced their march, carrying their tents,
blankets, cooking utensils, and a part of the dried meat. St. Germain,
however, had previously delineated with charcoal, a man and a house on a
piece of bark, which he placed over the canoe and the few things that
were left, to point out to the Dog-Ribs that they belonged to white
people.
The party reached the shores of Point Lake, through which the
Copper-Mine River runs, on the 1st of September. The next day was too
stormy for them to march, but on the 3d, they proceeded along its shores
to the westward, round a mountainous promontory, and perceiving the
course of the lake extending to the W.N.W., they encamped near some
pines, and then enjoyed the luxury of a good fire, for the first time
since their departure from us. The temperature of the water in the lake
was 35°, and of the air 32°, but the latter fell to 20° in the course of
that night. As their principal object was to ascertain whether any arm
of the lake branched nearer to Fort Enterprise than the part they had
fallen upon, to which the transport of our goods could be more easily
made next spring, they returned on its borders to the eastward, being
satisfied, by the appearance of the mountains between south and west,
that no further examination was necessary in that direction; and they
continued their march until the 6th at noon, without finding any part of
the lake inclining nearer the fort. They therefore encamped to observe
the eclipse, which was to take place on the following morning; but a
violent snow storm rendering the observation impossible, they commenced
their return, and after a comfortless and laborious march regained their
canoe on the 10th, and embarking in it, arrived the same evening at the
house.
Point Lake varied, as far as they traced, from one to three miles in
width. Its main course was nearly east and west, but several arms
branched off in different directions. I was much pleased with the able
manner in which these officers executed the service they had been
despatched upon, and was gratified to learn from them, that their
companions had conducted themselves extremely well, and borne the
fatigues of their journey most cheerfully. They scarcely ever had more
than sufficient fuel to boil the kettle; and were generally obliged to
lie down in their wet clothes, and consequently, suffered much from
cold.
The distance which the parties travelled, in their journey to and from
Point Lake, may be estimated at one hundred and ten statute miles, which
being added to the distances given in the preceding pages, amount to one
thousand five hundred and twenty miles that the Expedition travelled in
1820, up to the time of its residence at Fort Enterprise.
END OF VOL. I.
* * * * *
Transcriber's corrections and comments:
1. Original had a superfluous "C" in the year of publication
("MDCCCCXXIV"); corrected to "MDCCCXXIV" (1824).
2. "Holy Lake" is inconsistent with the three occurrences in the
text, which are all spelled "Holey Lake"; same in chapter
sub-header.
3. Added "à" missing in original in "Isle à la Crosse".
4. Symbol for seconds in original misprinted (56',); corrected to
quotation mark (56").
5. Original used comma instead of decimal point; corrected to
"39.5°".
6. Original had "were"; corrected to "where".
7. Original had "sienite"; changed to "syenite".
8. Original had "come"; corrected to "came".
9. Original had "tress"; corrected to "trees".
10. Original had "cosequence"; corrected to "consequence".
11. Original had "o"; corrected to "of".
12. Original had comma after 83° 14' 22"; corrected to period.
13. Original had "th weeather"; corrected to "the weather".
14. Original had "dependant"; changed to "dependent".
15. Original had "Copper-mine"; changed to "Copper-Mine" to be
consistent with other occurrences in the text.
16. "Mississippi" is most likely a misprint for "Missinippi", i.e.
Churchill river.
17. Original had "McKenzie's"; changed to "Mackenzie's" to be
consistent with other occurrences in the text.
18. Original had "dependant"; changed to "dependent".
19. Original had "agreeble"; corrected to "agreeable".
20. Original had "oxycocoos"; corrected to "oxycoccos".
21. Original had "scarely"; corrected to "scarcely".
22. Original had "sufficent"; corrected to "sufficient".
23. Original had "notwithanding"; corrected to "notwithstanding".
24. Original had comma after "showers"; corrected to period.
25. Original had "intractible"; corrected to "intractable".
26. "Assinéboine" is given as "Asseenaboine" elsewhere in the text.
27. Original had "of"; corrected to "off".
28. Original had "thuogh"; corrected to "though".
29. Original had "effrontry"; corrected to "effrontery".
30. Original had "dranked"; corrected to "drank".
31. Original had "o"; corrected to "of".
32. Original had "excution"; corrected to "execution".
33. Original had "suprise"; corrected to "surprise".
34. Deleted superfluous period after "cyprès".
35. "W." in the variation reading is most likely a misprint for "E.";
compare previous and next readings.
36. Original had "traveling"; corrected to "travelling".
37. Original had "Copper-mine"; changed to "Copper-Mine" to be
consistent with other occurrences in the text.
38. Original had "Copper-mine"; changed to "Copper-Mine" to be
consistent with other occurrences in the text.
39. Original had "bow-men and steers-men"; changed to "bowmen and
steersmen" to be consistent with other occurrences in the text.
40. Original had "Mammawee"; changed to "Mamma-wee" to be consistent
with previous occurrence.
41. The name of the fish "attihhawmegh" is spelled "attihhawmeg"
elsewhere.
42. Original reference was to page 92, which contains nothing about
fish or fishing; changed to "143-4", where references to fishing
can be found.
43. Original had "occasionly"; changed to "occasionally".
44. Original had "it"; corrected to "in".
45. Added period missing in original after "winter".
46. "Conolly" is a possible misprint for "Connolly" (as found earlier
in the text).
47. "Conolly" is a possible misprint for "Connolly".
48. Original had "Riviére"; corrected to "Rivière".
49. Original had comma after "fish"; corrected to period.
50. "Echiamamis" is probably the same as "Echemamis" above.
51. "N." is most likely a misprint for "E.", as magnetic variation of
the compass can only be East or West.
52. "McCleod" is a possible misprint for "McLeod", as it appears
earlier in the text.
53. Original had "or"; corrected to "of".
54. "Thlouee-tessy" is probably the same as "Thloueea-tessy" above.
55. Original had "today"; changed to "to-day" to be consistent with
other occurrences in the text.
56. Original had "varition"; changed to "variation".
57. Original had "Copper-Mine-River"; changed to "Copper-Mine River".
58. "S." in the latitude reading is very unlikely; almost certainly a
misprint for "N."