CHAPTER IV.

Leave Cumberland House--Mode of Travelling in Winter--Arrival at

Carlton House--Stone Indians--Visit to a Buffalo

Pound--Goitres--Departure from Carlton House--Isle à la

Crosse--Arrival at Fort Chipewyan.

1820. January 18.

This day we set out from Cumberland House for Carlton House; but

previously to detailing the events of the journey, it may be proper to

describe the necessary equipments of a winter traveller in this region,

which I cannot do better than by extracting the following brief, but

accurate, account of it from Mr. Hood's journal:--

"A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of wood, fastened together at

their extremities, and projected into curves by transverse bars. The

side bars have been so shaped by a frame, and dried before a fire, that

the front part of the shoe turns up, like the prow of a boat, and the

part behind terminates in an acute angle; the spaces between the bars

are filled up with a fine netting of leathern thongs, except that part

behind the main bar, which is occupied by the feet; the netting is

there close and strong, and the foot is attached to the main bar by

straps passing round the heel but only fixing the toes, so that the heel

rises after each step, and the tail of the shoe is dragged on the snow.

Between the main bar and another in front of it, a small space is left,

permitting the toes to descend a little in the act of raising the heel

to make the step forward, which prevents their extremities from chafing.

The length of a snow-shoe is from four to six feet and the breadth one

foot and a half, or one foot and three quarters, being adapted to the

size of the wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly natural,

for one shoe is level with the snow, when the edge of the other is

passing over it. It is not easy to use them among bushes, without

frequent overthrows, nor to rise afterwards without help. Each shoe

weighs about two pounds when unclogged with snow. The northern Indian

snow-shoes differ a little from those of the southern Indians, having a

greater curvature on the outside of each shoe; one advantage of which

is, that when the foot rises the over-balanced side descends and throws

off the snow. All the superiority of European art has been unable to

improve the native contrivance of this useful machine.

"Sledges are made of two or three flat boards, curving upwards in front,

and fastened together by transverse pieces of wood above. They are so

thin that, if heavily laden, they bend with the inequalities of the

surface over which they pass. The ordinary dog-sledges are eight or ten

feet long and very narrow, but the lading is secured to a lacing round

the edges. The cariole used by the traders is merely a covering of

leather for the lower part of the body, affixed to the common sledge,

which is painted and ornamented according to the taste of the

proprietor. Besides snow-shoes, each individual carries his blanket,

hatchet, steel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire arms."

The general dress of the winter traveller, is a _capot_, having a hood

to put up under the fur cap in windy weather, or in the woods, to keep

the snow from his neck; leathern trowsers and Indian stockings which are

closed at the ankles, round the upper part of his _mocassins_, or Indian

shoes, to prevent the snow from getting into them. Over these he wears a

blanket, or leathern coat, which is secured by a belt round his waist,

to which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are suspended.

Mr. Back and I were accompanied by the seaman, John Hepburn; we were

provided with two carioles and two sledges; their drivers and dogs

being furnished in equal proportions by the two Companies. Fifteen days'

provision so completely filled the sledges, that it was with difficulty

we found room for a small sextant, one suit of clothes, and three

changes of linen, together with our bedding. Notwithstanding we thus

restricted ourselves, and even loaded the carioles with part of the

luggage, instead of embarking in them ourselves, we did not set out

without considerable grumbling from the voyagers of both Companies,

respecting the overlading of their dogs. However, we left the matter to

be settled by our friends at the fort, who were more conversant with

winter travelling than ourselves. Indeed the loads appeared to us so

great that we should have been inclined to listen to the complaints of

the drivers. The weight usually placed upon a sledge, drawn by three

dogs, cannot, at the commencement of a journey, be estimated at less

than three hundred pounds, which, however, suffers a daily diminution

from the consumption of provisions. The sledge itself weighs about

thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen, or the track well trodden,

the rate of travelling is about two miles and a half an hour, including

rests, or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow be loose the speed is

necessarily much less and the fatigue greater.

At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted the fort, and took leave

of our hospitable friend, Governor Williams, whose kindness and

attention I shall ever remember with gratitude. Dr. Richardson, Mr.

Hood, and Mr. Connolly, accompanied us along the Saskatchawan until the

snow became too deep for their walking without snow-shoes. We then

parted from our associates, with sincere regret at the prospect of a

long separation. Being accompanied by Mr. Mackenzie, of the Hudson's Bay

Company, who was going to Isle à la Crosse, with four sledges under his

charge, we formed quite a procession, keeping in an Indian file, on the

track of the man who preceded the foremost dogs; but, as the snow was

deep, we proceeded slowly on the surface of the river, which is about

three hundred and fifty yards wide, for the distance of six miles, which

we went this day. Its alluvial banks and islands are clothed with

willows. At the place of our encampment we could scarcely{21} find

sufficient{22} pine branches to floor "the hut," as the Orkney men term

the place where travellers rest. Its preparation, however, consists only

in clearing away the snow to the ground, and covering that space with

pine branches, over which the party spread their blankets and coats, and

sleep in warmth and comfort, by keeping a good fire at their feet,

without any other canopy than the heaven, even though the thermometer

should be far below zero.

The arrival at the place of encampment gives immediate occupation to

every one of the party; and it is not until the sleeping-place has been

arranged, and a sufficiency of wood collected as fuel for the night,

that the fire is allowed to be kindled. The dogs alone remain inactive

during this busy scene, being kept harnessed to their burdens until the

men have leisure to unstow the sledges, and hang upon the trees every

species of provision out of their reach. We had ample experience, before

morning, of the necessity of this precaution, as they contrived to steal

a considerable part of our stores, almost from underneath Hepburn's

head, notwithstanding{23} their having been well fed at supper.

This evening we found the mercury of our thermometer had sunk into the

bulb, and was frozen. It rose again into the tube on being held to the

fire, but quickly re-descended into the bulb on being removed into the

air; we could not, therefore, ascertain by it the temperature of the

atmosphere, either then or during our journey. The weather was perfectly

clear.

_January 19_.--We arose this morning after the enjoyment of a sound and

comfortable repose, and recommenced our journey at sunrise, but made

slow progress through the deep snow. The task of beating the track for

the dogs was so very fatiguing, that each of the men took the lead in

turn, for an hour and a half. The scenery of the banks of the river

improved as we advanced to-day; some firs and poplars were intermixed

with the willows. We passed through two creeks, formed by islands, and

encamped on a pleasant spot on the north shore, having only made six

miles and three quarters actual distance.

The next day we pursued our course along the river; the dogs had the

greatest difficulty in dragging their heavy burdens through the snow. We

halted to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon River, and obtained the

latitude 53° 51' 41" N. This is a small stream, which issues from a

neighbouring lake. We encamped near to Musquito Point, having walked

about nine miles. The termination of the day's journey was a great

relief to me, who had been suffering during the greater part of it, in

consequence of my feet having been galled by the snow-shoes; this,

however, is an evil which few escape on their initiation to winter

travelling. It excites no pity from the more experienced companions of

the journey, who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of your pain.

Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us from Cumberland House, and

brought some pemmican that we had left behind; a supply which was very

seasonable after our recent loss. The general occupation of Mr. Isbester

during the winter, is to follow or find out the Indians, and collect

their furs, and his present journey will appear adventurous to persons

accustomed to the certainty of travelling on a well-known road. He was

going in search of a band of Indians, of whom no information had been

received since last October, and his only guide for finding them was

their promise to hunt in a certain quarter; but he looked at the jaunt

with indifference, and calculated on meeting them in six or seven days,

for which time only he had provision. Few persons in this country suffer

more from want of food than those occasionally do who are employed on

this service. They are furnished with a sufficiency of provision to

serve until they reach the part where the Indians are expected to be;

but it frequently occurs that, on their arrival at the spot, they have

gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of snow has hidden their track,

in which case, the voyagers have to wander about in search of them; and

it often happens, when they succeed in finding the Indians, that they

are unprovided with meat. Mr. Isbester had been placed in this

distressing situation only a few weeks ago, and passed four days

without either himself or his dogs tasting food. At length, when he had

determined on killing one of the dogs to satisfy his hunger, he happily

met with a beaten track, which led him to some Indian lodges, where he

obtained food.

The morning of the 21st was cold, but pleasant for travelling. We left

Mr. Isbester and his companion, and crossed the peninsula of Musquito

Point, to avoid a detour of several miles which the river makes. Though

we put up at an early hour, we gained eleven miles this day. Our

encampment was at the lower extremity of Tobin's Falls. The snow being

less deep on the rough ice which enclosed this rapid, we proceeded, on

the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual, but at the expense of great

suffering to Mr. Back, myself, and Hepburn, whose feet were much galled.

After passing Tobin's Falls, the river expands to the breadth of five

hundred yards, and its banks are well wooded with pines, poplars, birch,

and willows. Many tracks of moose-deer and wolves were observed near the

encampment.

On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and there were several snow

showers.{24} We saw two wolves and some foxes cross the river in the

course of the day, and passed many tracks of the moose and red-deer.

Soon after we had encamped the snow fell heavily, which was an advantage

to us after we had retired to rest, by its affording an additional

covering to our blankets. The next morning, at breakfast time, two men

arrived from Carlton on their way to Cumberland. Having the benefit of

their track, we were enabled, to our great joy, to march at a quick pace

without snow-shoes. My only regret was, that the party proceeded too

fast to allow of Mr. Back's halting occasionally, to note the bearings

of the points, and delineate the course of the river[13], without being

left behind. As the provisions were getting short, I could not,

therefore, with propriety, check the progress of the party; and, indeed,

it appeared to me less necessary, as I understood the river had been

carefully surveyed. In the afternoon, we had to resume the incumbrance

of the snow-shoes, and to pass over a rugged part where the ice had been

piled over a collection of stones. The tracks of animals were very

abundant on the river, particularly near the remains of an old

establishment, called the Lower Nippéween.

[13] This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage to

Carlton in the spring.

So much snow had fallen on the night of the 24th, that the track we

intended to follow was completely covered, and our march to-day was very

fatiguing. We passed the remains of two red-deer, lying at the bases of

perpendicular cliffs, from the summits of which they had, probably, been

forced by the wolves. These voracious animals who are inferior in speed

to the moose or red-deer are said frequently to have recourse to this

expedient in places where extensive plains are bounded by precipitous

cliffs. Whilst the deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in

great numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards the herd so

as not to alarm them much at first, but when they perceive that they

have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting creatures, and cut off their

retreat across the plain, they move more quickly and with hideous yells

terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the only open way, which

is that towards the precipice; appearing to know that when the herd is

once at full speed, it is easily driven over the cliff, the rearmost

urging on those that are before. The wolves then descend at their

leisure, and feast on the mangled carcasses. One of these animals passed

close to the person who was beating the track, but did not offer any

violence. We encamped at sunset, after walking thirteen miles.

On the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the half-way point, between

Cumberland and Carlton. The scenery of the river is less pleasing

beyond this point, as there is a scarcity of wood. One of our men was

despatched after a red-deer that appeared on the bank. He contrived to

approach near enough to fire twice, though without success, before the

animal moved away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen miles we put up

at the upper Nippéween, a deserted establishment; and performed the

comfortable operations of shaving and washing for the first time since

our departure from Cumberland, the weather having been hitherto too

severe. We passed an uncomfortable and sleepless night, and agreed next

morning to encamp in future, in the open air, as preferable to the

imperfect shelter of a deserted house without doors or windows.

The morning was extremely cold, but fortunately the wind was light,

which prevented our feeling it severely; experience indeed had taught us

that the sensation of cold depends less upon the state of temperature,

than the force of the wind. An attempt was made to obtain the latitude,

which failed, in consequence of the screw, that adjusts the telescope of

the sextant, being immoveably fixed, from the moisture upon it having

frozen. The instrument could not be replaced in its case before the ice

was thawed by the fire in the evening.

In the course of the day we passed the confluence of the south branch of

the Saskatchawan, which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the sources

of the northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls, which commence a

short distance from the branch, we found the surface of the ice very

uneven, and many spots of open water.

We passed the ruins of an establishment, which the traders had been

compelled to abandon, in consequence of the intractable{25} conduct and

pilfering habits of the Assinéboine{26} or Stone Indians; and we learned

that all the residents at a post on the south branch, had been cut

off{27} by the same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve miles

to-day. The wolves serenaded us through the night with a chorus of their

agreeable howling, but none of them ventured near the encampment. But

Mr. Back's repose was disturbed by a more serious evil: his buffalo robe

caught fire, and the shoes on his feet, being contracted by the heat,

gave him such pain, that he jumped up in the cold, and ran into the snow

as the only means of obtaining relief.

On the 28th we had a strong and piercing wind from N.W. in our faces,

and much snow-drift; we were compelled to walk as quick as we could, and

to keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the skin, to prevent

their being frozen, but some of the party suffered in spite of every

precaution. We descried three red-deer on the banks of the river, and

were about to send the best marksmen after them, when they espied the

party, and ran away. A supply of meat would have been very seasonable,

as the men's provision had become scanty, and the dogs were without

food, except a little burnt leather. Owing to the scarcity of wood, we

had to walk until a late hour, before a good spot for an encampment

could be found, and had then attained only eleven miles. The night was

miserably cold; our tea froze in the tin pots before we could drink it,

and even a mixture of spirits and water became quite thick by

congelation; yet, after we lay down to rest, we felt no inconvenience,

and heeded not the wolves, though they were howling within view.

The 29th was also very cold, until the sun burst forth, when the

travelling became pleasant. The banks of the river are very scantily

supplied with wood through the part we passed to-day. A long track on

the south shore, called Holms Plains, is destitute of any thing like a

tree, and the opposite bank has only stunted willows; but, after walking

sixteen miles, we came to a spot better wooded, and encamped opposite to

a remarkable place, called by the voyagers "The Neck of Land."

A short distance below our encampment, on the peninsula formed by the

confluence of the Net-setting river with the Saskatchawan, there stands

a representation of Kepoochikawn, which was formerly held in high

veneration by the Indians, and is still looked upon with some respect.

It is merely a large willow bush, having its tops bound into a bunch.

Many offerings of value such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and kettles,

used to be made to it, but of late its votaries have been less liberal.

It was mentioned to us as a signal instance of its power, that a

sacrilegious moose-deer having ventured to crop a few of its tender

twigs was found dead at the distance of a few yards. The bush having now

grown old and stunted is exempted from similar violations.

On the thirtieth we directed our course round The Neck of Land, which is

well clothed with pines and firs; though the opposite or western bank is

nearly destitute of wood. This contrast between the two banks continued

until we reached the commencement of what our companions called the

Barren Grounds, when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend

behind the southern bank, which afford excellent pasturage for the

buffalo, and other grazing animals. In the evening we saw a herd of the

former, but could not get near to them. After walking fifteen miles we

encamped. The men's provision having been entirely expended last night,

we shared our small stock with them. The poor dogs had been toiling some

days on the most scanty fare; their rapacity, in consequence, was

unbounded; they forced open a deal box, containing tea, _&c._, to get at

a small piece of meat which had been incautiously placed in it.

As soon as daylight permitted, the party commenced their march in

expectation of reaching Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not

arrive before noon, although the track was good. We were received by Mr.

Prudens, the gentleman in charge of the post, with that friendly

attention which Governor Williams's circular was calculated to ensure at

every station; and were soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish

of buffalo steaks, which would have been excellent under any

circumstances, but were particularly relished by us, after our

travelling fare of dried meat and pemmican, though eaten without either

bread or vegetables. After this repast, we had the comfort of changing

our travelling dresses, which had been worn for fourteen days; a

gratification which can only be truly estimated by those who have been

placed under similar circumstances. I was still in too great pain from

swellings in the ankles to proceed to La Montée, the North-West

Company's establishment, distant about three miles; but Mr. Hallet, the

gentleman in charge, came the following morning, and I presented to him

the circular from Mr. S. Mac Gillivray. He had already been furnished,

however, with a copy of it from Mr. Connolly, and was quite prepared to

assist us in our advance to the Athabasca.

Mr. Back and I having been very desirous to see some of the Stone

Indians, who reside on the plains in this vicinity, learned with regret

that a large band of them had left the house on the preceding day; but

our curiosity was amply gratified by the appearance of some individuals,

on the following and every subsequent day during our stay.

The looks of these people would have prepossessed me in their favour,

but for the assurances I had received from the gentlemen of the posts,

of their gross and habitual treachery. Their countenances are affable

and pleasing, their eyes large and expressive, nose aquiline, teeth

white and regular, the forehead bold, the cheek-bones rather high. Their

figure is usually good, above the middle size, with slender, but well

proportioned, limbs. Their colour is a light copper, and they have a

profusion of very black hair, which hangs over the ears, and shades the

face. Their dress, which I think extremely neat and convenient, consists

of a vest and trowsers of leather fitted to the body; over these a

buffalo robe is thrown gracefully. These dresses are in general cleaned

with _white-mud_, a sort of marl, though some use _red earth_, a kind of

bog-iron-ore; but this colour neither looks so light, nor forms such an

agreeable contrast as the white with the black hair of the robe. Their

quiver hangs behind them, and in the hand is carried the bow, with an

arrow always ready for attack or defence, and sometimes they have a gun;

they also carry a bag containing materials for making a fire, some

tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever valuables they possess. This

bag is neatly ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus equipped, the Stone

Indian bears himself with an air of perfect independence.

The only articles of European commerce they require in exchange for the

meat they furnish to the trading post, are tobacco, knives, ammunition,

and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but more frequently buttons,

which they string in their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will

probably have two or three dozen of them hanging at equal distances on

locks of hair, from each side of the forehead. At the end of these

locks, small coral bells are sometimes attached, which tingle at every

motion of the head, a noise which seems greatly to delight the wearer;

sometimes strings of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara; and

a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the head.

The Stone Indians steal whatever they can, particularly horses; these

animals they maintain are common property, sent by the Almighty for the

general use of man, and therefore may be taken wherever met with; still

they admit the right of the owners to watch them, and to prevent theft

if possible. This avowed disposition on their part calls forth the

strictest vigilance at the different posts; notwithstanding which the

most daring attacks are often made with success, sometimes on parties of

three or four, but oftener on individuals. About two years ago a band of

them had the audacity to attempt to take away some horses which were

grazing before the gate of the N.W. Company's fort; and, after braving

the fire from the few people then at the establishment through the whole

day, and returning their shots occasionally, they actually succeeded in

their enterprise. One man was killed on each side. They usually strip

defenceless persons whom they meet of all their garments, but

particularly of those which have buttons, and leave them to travel home

in that state, however severe the weather. If resistance be expected,

they not unfrequently murder before they attempt to rob. The traders,

when they travel, invariably keep some men on guard to prevent surprise,

whilst the others sleep; and often practise the stratagem of lighting a

fire at sunset, which they leave burning, and move on after dark to a

more distant encampment--yet these precautions do not always baffle the

depredators. Such is the description of men whom the traders of this

river have constantly to guard against. It must require a long residence

among them, and much experience of their manners, to overcome the

apprehensions their hostility and threats are calculated to excite.

Through fear of having their provision and supplies entirely cut off,

the traders are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences, even

murder, though{28} the delinquents present themselves with unblushing

effrontery{29} almost immediately after the fact, and perhaps boast of

it. They do not, on detection, consider themselves under any obligation

to deliver up what they have stolen without receiving an equivalent.

The Stone Indians keep in amity with their neighbours the Crees from

motives of interest; and the two tribes unite in determined hostility

against the nations dwelling to the westward, which are generally called

Slave Indians--a term of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes

against whom they have waged successful wars. The Slave Indians are said

greatly to resemble the Stone Indians, being equally desperate and

daring in their acts of aggression and dishonesty towards the traders.

These parties go to war almost every summer, and sometimes muster three

or four hundred horsemen on each side. Their leaders, in approaching the

foe, exercise all the caution of the most skilful generals; and whenever

either party considers that it has gained the best ground, or finds it

can surprise the other, the attack is made. They advance at once to

close quarters, and the slaughter is consequently great, though the

battle may be short. The prisoners of either sex are seldom spared, but

slain on the spot with wanton cruelty. The dead are scalped, and he is

considered the bravest person who bears the greatest number of scalps

from the field. These are afterwards attached to his war dress, and worn

as proofs of his prowess. The victorious party, during a certain time,

blacken their faces and every part of their dress in token of joy, and

in that state they often come to the establishment, if near, to testify

their delight by dancing and singing, bearing all the horrid insignia of

war, to display their individual feats. When in mourning, they

completely cover their dress and hair with white mud.

The Crees in the vicinity of Carlton House have the same cast of

countenance as those about Cumberland, but are much superior to them in

appearance, living in a more abundant country. These men are more

docile, tractable, and industrious, than the Stone Indians, and bring

greater supplies of provision and furs to the posts. Their general mode

of dress resembles that of the Stone Indians; but sometimes they wear

cloth leggins, blankets, and other useful articles, when they can afford

to purchase them. They also decorate their hair with buttons.

The Crees procure guns from the traders, and use them in preference to

the bow and arrow; and from them the Stone Indians often get supplied,

either by stealth, gaming, or traffic. Like the rest of their nation,

these Crees are remarkably fond of spirits, and would make any sacrifice

to obtain them. I regretted to find the demand for this pernicious

article had greatly increased within the few last years. The following

notice of these Indians is extracted from Dr. Richardson's journal:

"The Asseenaboine, termed by the Crees Asseeneepoytuck, or Stone

Indians, are a tribe of Sioux, who speak a dialect of the Iroquois, one

of the great divisions under which the American philologists have

classed the known dialects of the Aborigines of North America. The Stone

Indians, or, as they name themselves, _Eascab_, originally entered this

part of the country under the protection of the Crees, and in concert

with them attacked and drove to the westward the former inhabitants of

the banks of the Saskatchawan. They are still the allies of the Crees,

but have now become more numerous than their former protectors. They

exhibit all the bad qualities ascribed to the Mengwe or Iroquois, the

stock whence they are sprung. Of their actual number I could obtain no

precise information, but it is very great. The Crees who inhabit the

plains, being fur hunters, are better known to the traders.

"They are divided into two distinct bands, the Ammisk-watcheéthinyoowuc

or Beaver Hill Crees, who have about forty tents, and the

Sackaweé-thinyoowuc, or Thick Wood Crees, who have thirty-five. The

tents average nearly ten inmates each, which gives a population of

seven hundred and fifty to the whole.

"The nations who were driven to the westward by the Eascab and Crees are

termed, in general, by the latter, Yatcheé-thinyoowuc, which has been

translated Slave Indians, but more properly signifies Strangers.

"They now inhabit the country around Fort Augustus, and towards the foot

of the Rocky Mountains, and have increased in strength until they have

become an object of terror to the Eascab themselves. They rear a great

number of horses, make use of fire-arms, and are fond of European

articles; in order to purchase which they hunt the beaver and other

furred animals, but they depend principally on the buffalo for

subsistence.

"They are divided into five nations:--First, the

Pawäustic-eythin-yoowuc, or Fall Indians, so named from their former

residence on the falls of the Saskatchawan. They are the Minetarres,

with whom Captain Lewis's party had a conflict on their return from the

Missouri. They have about four hundred and fifty or five hundred tents;

their language is very guttural and difficult.

"Second, the Peganoo-eythinyoowuc Pegans, or Muddy River Indians, named

in their own language Peganoe`-koon, have four hundred tents.

"Third, the Meethco-thinyoowuc, or Blood Indians, named by themselves

Kainoe`-koon, have three hundred tents.

"Fourth, the Cuskoeteh-waw-thésseetuck, or Blackfoot Indians, in their

own language Saxoekoe-koon, have three hundred and fifty tents.

"The last three nations, or tribes, the Pegans, Blood Indians, and

Black-feet speak the same language. It is pronounced in a slow and

distinct tone, has much softness, and is easily acquired by their

neighbours. I am assured by the best interpreters in the country, that

it bears no affinity to the Cree, Sioux, or Chipewyan languages.

"Lastly, the Sassees, or Circees, have one hundred and fifty tents; they

speak the same language with their neighbours, the Snare Indians, who

are a tribe of the extensive family of the Chipewyans[14]."

[14] "As the subjects may be interesting to philologists, I subjoin a

few words of the Blackfoot language:--

Peestâh kan, tobacco.

Moohksee, an awl.

Nappoe-oòhkee, rum.

Cook keet, give me.

Eeninee, buffalo.

Poox[=a]poot, come here.

Kat oetsits, none, I have none.

Keet st[=a] kee, a beaver.

Naum`, a bow.

Stoo-an, a knife.

Sassoopats, ammunition.

Meenee, beads.

Poommees, fat.

Miss ta poot, keep off.

Saw, no.

Stwee, cold; it is cold.

Penn[=a]k[=o]mit, a horse.

Ahseeu, good."

On the 6th of February, we accompanied Mr. Prudens on a visit to a Cree

encampment and a buffalo pound, about six miles from the house; we

found seven tents pitched within a small cluster of pines, which

adjoined the pound. The largest, which we entered, belonged to the

Chief, who was absent, but came in on learning our arrival. The old man

(about sixty) welcomed us with a hearty shake of the hand, and the

customary salutation of "What cheer!" an expression which they have

gained from the traders. As we had been expected, they had caused the

tent to be neatly arranged, fresh grass was spread on the ground,

buffalo robes were placed on the side opposite the door for us to sit

on, and a kettle was on the fire to boil meat for us.

After a few minutes' conversation, an invitation was given to the Chief

and his hunters to smoke the calumet with us, as a token of our

friendship: this was loudly announced through the camp, and ten men from

the other tents immediately joined our party. On their entrance the

women and children withdrew, their presence on such occasions being

contrary to etiquette. The calumet having been prepared and lighted by

Mr. Prudens's clerk, was presented to the Chief, who performed the

following ceremony before he commenced smoking:--He first pointed the

stem to the south, then to the west, north, and east, and afterwards to

the heavens, the earth, and the fire, as an offering to the presiding

spirits:--he took three whiffs only, and then passed the pipe to his

next companion, who took the same number of whiffs, and so did each

person as it went round. After the calumet had been replenished, the

person who then commenced repeated only the latter part of the ceremony,

pointing the stem to the heaven, the earth, and the fire. Some spirits,

mixed with water, were presented to the old man, who, before he drank,

demanded a feather, which he dipped into the cup several times, and

sprinkled the moisture on the ground, pronouncing each time a prayer.

His first address to the Keetchee Manitou, or Great Spirit, was, that

buffalo might be abundant every where, and that plenty might come into

their pound. He next prayed, that the other animals might be numerous,

and particularly those which were valuable for their furs, and then

implored that the party present might escape the sickness which was at

that time prevalent, and be blessed with constant health. Some other

supplications followed, which we could not get interpreted without

interrupting the whole proceeding; but at every close, the whole Indian

party assented by exclaiming Aha; and when he had finished, the old man

drank a little and passed the cup round. After these ceremonies each

person smoked at his leisure, and they engaged in a general

conversation, which I regretted not understanding, as it seemed to be

very humorous, exciting frequent bursts of laughter. The younger men, in

particular, appeared to ridicule the abstinence of one of the party, who

neither drank{30} nor smoked. He bore their jeering with perfect

composure, and assured them, as I was told, they would be better if they

would follow his example. I was happy to learn from Mr. Prudens, that

this man was not only one of the best hunters, but the most cheerful and

contented of the tribe.

Four Stone Indians arrived at this time and were invited into the tent,

but one only accepted the invitation and partook of the fare. When Mr.

Prudens heard the others refuse, he gave immediate directions that our

horses should be narrowly watched, as he suspected these fellows wished

to carry them off. Having learned that these Crees considered Mr. Back

and myself to be war chiefs, possessing great power, and that they

expected we should make some address to them, I desired them to be kind

to the traders, to be industrious in procuring them provision and furs,

and to refrain from stealing their stores and horses; and I assured

them, that if I heard of their continuing to behave kindly, I would

mention their good conduct in the strongest terms to their Great Father

across the sea, (by which appellation they designate the King,) whose

favourable consideration they had been taught by the traders to value

most highly.

They all promised to follow my advice, and assured me it was not they,

but the Stone Indians, who robbed and annoyed the traders. The Stone

Indian who was present, heard this accusation against his tribe quite

unmoved, but he probably did not understand the whole of the

communication. We left them to finish their rum, and went to look round

the lodges, and examine the pound.

The greatest proportion of labour, in savage life, falls to the women;

we now saw them employed in dressing skins, and conveying wood, water,

and provision. As they have often to fetch the meat from some distance,

they are assisted in this duty by their dogs, which are not harnessed in

sledges, but carry their burthens in a manner peculiarly adapted to this

level country. Two long poles are fastened by a collar to the dog's

neck; their ends trail on the ground, and are kept at a proper distance

by a hoop, which is lashed between them, immediately behind the dog's

tail; the hoop is covered with network, upon which the load is placed.

The boys were amusing themselves by shooting arrows at a mark, and thus

training to become hunters. The Stone Indians are so expert with the bow

and arrow, that they can strike a very small object at a considerable

distance, and will shoot with sufficient force to pierce through the

body of a buffalo when near.

The buffalo pound was a fenced circular space of about a hundred yards

in diameter; the entrance was banked up with snow, to a sufficient

height to prevent the retreat of the animals that once have entered. For

about a mile on each side of the road leading to the pound, stakes were

driven into the ground at nearly equal distances of about twenty yards;

these were intended to represent men, and to deter the animals from

attempting to break out on either side. Within fifty or sixty yards from

the pound, branches of trees were placed between these stakes to screen

the Indians, who lie down behind them to await the approach of the

buffalo.

The principal dexterity in this species of chase is shewn by the

horsemen, who have to manoeuvre round the herd in the plains so as to

urge them to enter the roadway, which is about a quarter of a mile

broad. When this has been accomplished, they raise loud shouts, and,

pressing close upon the animals, so terrify them that they rush

heedlessly forward towards the snare. When they have advanced as far as

the men who are lying in ambush, they also rise, and increase the

consternation by violent shouting and firing guns. The affrighted beasts

having no alternative, run directly to the pound, where they are quickly

despatched, either with an arrow or gun.

There was a tree in the centre of the pound, on which the Indians had

hung strips of buffalo flesh and pieces of cloth as tributary or

grateful offerings to the Great Master of Life; and we were told that

they occasionally place a man in the tree to sing to the presiding

spirit as the buffaloes are advancing, who must keep his station until

the whole that have entered are killed. This species of hunting is very

similar to that of taking elephants on the Island of Ceylon, but upon a

smaller scale.

The Crees complained to us of the audacity of a party of Stone Indians,

who, two nights before, had stripped their revered tree of many of its

offerings, and had injured their pound by setting their stakes out of

the proper places.

Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised by the Indians with

success; of these the hunting them on horseback requires most dexterity.

An expert hunter, when well mounted, dashes at the herd, and chooses an

individual which he endeavours to separate from the rest. If he

succeeds, he contrives to keep him apart by the proper management of his

horse, though going at full speed. Whenever he can get sufficiently near

for a ball to penetrate the beast's hide, he fires, and seldom fails of

bringing the animal down; though of course he cannot rest the piece

against the shoulder, nor take a deliberate aim. On this service the

hunter is often exposed to considerable danger, from the fall of his

horse in the numerous holes which the badgers make in these plains, and

also from the rage of the buffalo, which, when closely pressed, often

turns suddenly, and, rushing furiously on the horse, frequently succeeds

in wounding it, or dismounting the rider. Whenever the animal shews this

disposition, which the experienced hunter will readily perceive, he

immediately pulls up his horse, and goes off in another direction.

When the buffaloes are on their guard, horses cannot be used in

approaching them; but the hunter dismounts at some distance, and crawls

in the snow towards the herd, pushing his gun before him. If the

buffaloes happen to look towards him, he stops, and keeps quite

motionless, until their eyes are turned in another direction; by this

cautious proceeding a skilful person will get so near as to be able to

kill two or three out of the herd. It will easily be imagined this

service cannot be very agreeable when the thermometer stands 30° or 40°

below zero, as sometimes happens in this country.

As we were returning from the tents, the dogs that were harnessed to

three sledges, in one of which Mr. Back was seated, set off in pursuit

of a buffalo-calf. Mr. Back was speedily thrown from his vehicle, and

had to join me in my horse-cariole. Mr. Heriot, having gone to recover

the dogs, found them lying exhausted beside the calf, which they had

baited until it was as exhausted as themselves. Mr. Heriot, to shew us

the mode of hunting on horseback, or, as the traders term it, running of

the buffalo, went in chase of a cow, and killed it after firing three

shots.

The buffalo is a huge and shapeless animal, quite devoid of grace or

beauty; particularly awkward in running, but by no means slow; when put

to his speed, he plunges through the deep snow very expeditiously; the

hair is dark brown, very shaggy, curling about the head, neck, and hump,

and almost covering the eye, particularly in the bull, which is larger

and more unsightly than the cow. The most esteemed part of the animal is

the hump, called by the Canadians _bos_, by the Hudson's Bay people the

_wig_; it is merely a strong muscle, on which nature at certain seasons

forms a considerable quantity of fat. It is attached to the long spinous

processes of the first dorsal vertebræ, and seems to be destined to

support the enormous head of the animal. The meat which covers the

spinal processes themselves, after the wig is removed, is next in esteem

for its flavour and juiciness, and is more exclusively termed the hump

by the hunters.

The party was prevented from visiting a Stone Indian encampment by a

heavy fall of snow, which made it impracticable to go and return the

same day. We were dissuaded from sleeping at their tents by the

interpreter at the N.W. post, who told us they considered the

hooping-cough and measles, under which they were now suffering, to have

been introduced by some white people recently arrived in the country,

and that he feared those who had lost relatives, imagining we were the

persons, might vent their revenge on us. We regretted to learn that

these diseases had been so very destructive among the tribes along the

Saskatchawan, as to have carried off about three hundred persons, Crees

and Asseenaboines, within the trading circle of these establishments.

The interpreter also informed us of another bad trait peculiar to the

Stone Indians. Though they receive a visitor kindly at their tents, and

treat him very hospitably during his stay, yet it is very probable they

will despatch some young men to way-lay and rob him in going towards the

post: indeed, all the traders assured us it was more necessary to be

vigilantly on our guard on the occasion of a visit to them, than at any

other time.

Carlton House, (which our observations place in latitude 52° 50' 47" N.,

longitude, 106° 12' 42" W., variation 20° 44' 47" E.) is pleasantly

situated about a quarter of a mile from the river's side on the flat

ground under the shelter of the high banks that bound the plains. The

land is fertile, and produces, with little trouble, ample returns of

wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. The ground is prepared for the

reception of these vegetables, about the middle of April, and when Dr.

Richardson visited this place on May 10th, the blade of wheat looked

strong and healthy. There were only five acres in cultivation at the

period of my visit. The prospect from the fort must be pretty in summer,

owing to the luxuriant verdure of this fertile soil; but in the uniform

and cheerless garb of winter, it has little to gratify the eye.

Beyond the steep bank behind the house, commences the vast plain, whose

boundaries are but imperfectly known; it extends along the south branch

of the Saskatchawan, and towards the sources of the Missouri, and

Asseenaboine Rivers, being scarcely interrupted through the whole of

this great space by hills, or even rising grounds. The excellent

pasturage furnishes food in abundance, to a variety of grazing animals,

of which the buffalo, red-deer, and a species of antelope, are the most

important. Their presence naturally attracts great hordes of wolves,

which are of two kinds, the large, and the small. Many bears prowl about

the banks of this river in summer; of these the grizzle bear is the most

ferocious, and is held in dread both by Indians and Europeans. The

traveller, in crossing these plains, not only suffers from the want of

food and water, but is also exposed to hazard from his horse stumbling

in the numerous badger-holes. In many large districts, the only fuel is

the dried dung of the buffalo; and when a thirsty traveller reaches a

spring, he has not unfrequently the mortification to find the water

salt.

Carlton House, and La Montée, are provision-posts, only an

inconsiderable quantity of furs being obtained at either of them. The

provisions are procured in the winter season from the Indians, in the

form of dried meat and fat, and when converted by mixture into pemmican,

furnish the principal support of the voyagers, in their passages to and

from the depôts in summer. A considerable quantity of it is also kept

for winter use, at most of the fur-posts, as the least bulky article

that can be taken on a winter journey. The mode of making pemmican is

very simple, the meat is dried by the Indians in the sun, or over a

fire, and pounded by beating it with stones when spread on a skin. In

this state it is brought to the forts, where the admixture of hair is

partially sifted out, and a third part of melted fat incorporated with

it, partly by turning the two over with a wooden shovel, partly by

kneading them together with the hands. The pemmican is then firmly

pressed into leathern bags, each capable of containing eighty-five

pounds, and being placed in an airy place to cool, is fit for use. It

keeps in this state, if not allowed to get wet, very well for one year,

and with great care it may be preserved good for two. Between three and

four hundred bags were made here by each of the Companies this year.

There were eight men, besides Mr. Prudens and his clerk, belonging to

Carlton House. At La Montée there were seventy Canadians and

half-breeds, and sixty women and children, who consumed upwards of seven

hundred pounds of{31} buffalo meat daily, the allowance per diem for

each man being eight pounds: a portion not so extravagant as may at

first appear, when allowance is made for bone, and the entire want of

farinaceous food or vegetables.

There are other provision posts, Fort Augustus and Edmonton farther up

the river, from whence some furs are also procured. The Stone Indians

have threatened to cut off the supplies in going up to these

establishments, to prevent their enemies from obtaining ammunition, and

other European articles; but as these menaces have been frequently made

without being put in execution{32}, the traders now hear them without

any great alarm, though they take every precaution to prevent being

surprised. Mr. Back and I were present when an old Cree communicated to

Mr. Prudens, that the Indians spoke of killing all the white people in

that vicinity this year, which information he received with perfect

composure, and was amused, as well as ourselves, with the man's

judicious remark which immediately followed, "A pretty state we shall

then be in without the goods you bring us."

The following remarks on a well-known disease are extracted from Dr.

Richardson's Journal:--

"Bronchocele, or Goitre, is a common disorder at Edmonton. I examined

several of the individuals afflicted with it, and endeavoured to obtain

every information on the subject from the most authentic sources. The

following facts may be depended upon. The disorder attacks those only

who drink the water of the river. It is indeed in its worst state

confined almost entirely to the half-breed women and children, who

reside constantly at the fort, and make use of river water, drawn in the

winter through a hole cut in the ice. The men, being often from home on

journeys through the plain, when their drink is melted snow, are less

affected; and, if any of them exhibit during the winter, some incipient

symptoms of the complaint, the annual summer voyage to the sea-coast

generally effects a cure. The natives who confine themselves to snow

water in the winter, and drink of the small rivulets which flow through

the plains in the summer, are exempt from the attacks of this disease.

"These facts are curious, inasmuch as they militate against the

generally-received opinion that the disease is caused by drinking

snow-water; an opinion which seems to have originated from bronchocele

being endemial to sub-alpine districts.

"The Saskatchawan, at Edmonton, is clear in the winter, and also in the

summer, except during the May and July floods. The distance from the

Rocky Mountains (which I suppose to be of primitive formation,) is

upwards of one hundred and thirty miles. The neighbouring plains are

alluvial, the soil is calcareous, and contains numerous travelled

fragments of limestone. At a considerable distance below Edmonton, the

river, continuing its course through the plains, becomes turbid, and

acquires a white colour. In this state it is drunk by the inmates of

Carlton House, where the disease is known only by name. It is said that

the inhabitants of Rocky Mountain House, sixty miles nearer the source

of the river are more severely affected than those at Edmonton. The same

disease occurs near the sources of the Elk and Peace Rivers; but, in

those parts of the country which are distant from the Rocky Mountain

Chain, it is unknown, although melted snow forms the only drink of the

natives for nine months of the year.

"A residence of a single year at Edmonton is sufficient to render a

family bronchocelous. Many of the goitres acquire great size. Burnt

sponge has been tried, and found to remove the disease, but an exposure

to the same cause immediately reproduces it.

"A great proportion of the children of women who have goitres, are born

idiots, with large heads, and the other distinguishing marks of

_cretins_. I could not learn whether it was necessary that both parents

should have goitres, to produce cretin children: indeed the want of

chastity in the half-breed women would be a bar to the deduction of any

inference on this head."

_February 8_.--Having recovered from the swellings and pains which our

late march from Cumberland had occasioned, we prepared for the

commencement of our journey to Isle à la Crosse, and requisitions were

made on both the establishments for the means of conveyance, and the

necessary supply of provisions for the party, which were readily

furnished. On the 9th the carioles and sledges were loaded, and sent off

after breakfast; but Mr. Back and I remained till the afternoon, as Mr.

Prudens had offered that his horses should convey us to the encampment.

At 3 P.M. we parted from our kind host, and in passing through the gate

were honoured with a salute of musketry. After riding six miles, we

joined the men at their encampment, which was made under the shelter of

a few poplars. The dogs had been so much fatigued in wading through the

very deep snow with their heavy burdens, having to drag upwards of

ninety pounds' weight each, that they could get no farther. Soon after

our arrival, the snow began to fall heavily, and it continued through

the greater part of the night.

Our next day's march was therefore particularly tedious, the snow being

deep, and the route lying across an unvarying level, destitute of wood,

except one small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached the end

of the plain, and came to an elevation, on which poplars, willows, and

some pines grew, where we encamped; having travelled ten miles. We

crossed three small lakes, two of fresh water and one of salt, near the

latter of which we encamped, and were, in consequence, obliged to use

for our tea, water made from snow, which has always a disagreeable

taste.

We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following morning, when a large

herd of red-deer was perceived grazing at a little distance; and, though

we were amply supplied with provision, our Canadian companions could not

resist the temptation of endeavouring to add to our stock. A half-breed

hunter was therefore sent after them. He succeeded in wounding one, but

not so as to prevent its running off with the herd in a direction wide

of our course. A couple of rabbits and a brace of wood partridges were

shot in the afternoon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale

in the scenery we passed through to-day; and sufficient wood for

ornament, but not enough to crowd the picture. The valleys were

intersected by several small lakes and pools, whose snowy covering was

happily contrasted with the dark green of the pine-trees which

surrounded them. After ascending a moderately high hill by a winding

path through a close wood, we opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois, and

had a full view of its picturesque shores. We crossed it and encamped.

Though the sky was cloudless, yet the weather was warm. We had the

gratification of finding a beaten track soon after we started on the

morning of the 12th, and were thus enabled to walk briskly. We crossed

at least twenty hills, and found a small lake or pool at the foot of

each. The destructive ravages of fire were visible during the greater

part of the day. The only wood we saw for miles together consisted of

pine-trees stript of their branches and bark by this element: in other

parts poplars alone were growing, which we have remarked invariably to

succeed the pine after a conflagration. We walked twenty miles to-day,

but the direct distance was only sixteen.

The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep glen, and close to it

was placed a pile of wood, which our companions supposed to cover a

deposit of provision. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by their insatiable

desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the upper pieces, and

examine its contents; when, to their surprise{33}, they found the body

of a female, clothed in leather, which appeared to have been recently

placed there. Her former garments, the materials for making a fire, a

fishing-line, a hatchet, and a bark dish, were laid beside the corpse.

The wood was carefully replaced. A small owl, perched on a tree near the

spot, called forth many singular remarks from our companions, as to its

being a good or bad omen.

We walked the whole of the 13th over flat meadow-land, which is much

resorted to by the buffalo at all seasons. Some herds of them were seen,

which our hunters were too unskilful to approach. In the afternoon we

reached the Stinking Lake, which is nearly of an oval form. Its shores

are very low and swampy, to which circumstances, and not to the bad

quality of the waters, it owes its Indian name. Our observations place

its western part in latitude 53° 25' 24" N., longitude 107° 18' 58" W.,

variation 20° 32' 10" E.

After a march of fifteen miles and a half, we encamped among a few

pines, at the only spot where we saw sufficient wood for making our fire

during the day. The next morning, about an hour after we had commenced

our march, we came upon a beaten track, and perceived recent marks of

snow-shoes. In a short time an Iroquois joined us, who was residing with

a party of Cree-Indians, to secure the meat and furs they should

collect, for the North-West Company. He accompanied us as far as the

stage on which his meat was placed, and then gave us a very pressing

invitation to halt for the day and partake of his fare; which, as the

hour was too early, we declined, much to the annoyance of our Canadian

companions, who had been cherishing the prospect of indulging their

amazing appetites at this well-furnished store, ever since the man had

been with us. He gave them, however, a small supply previous to our

parting. The route now crossed some ranges of hills, on which fir,

birch, and poplar, grew so thickly, that we had much difficulty in

getting the sledges through the narrow pathway between them. In the

evening we descended from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy

meadows, and encamped at their northern extremity, within a cluster of

large pine-trees, the branches of which were elegantly decorated with

abundance of a greenish yellow lichen. Our march was ten miles. The

weather was very mild, almost too warm for the exercise we were taking.

We had a strong gale from the N.W. during the night, which subsided as

the morning opened. One of the sledges had been so much broken the day

before in the woods, that we had to divide its cargo among the others.

We started after this had been arranged, and finding almost immediately

a firm track, soon arrived at some Indian lodges to which it led. The

inhabitants were Crees, belonging to the posts on the Saskatchawan, from

whence they had come to hunt beaver. We made but a short stay, and

proceeded through a Swamp to Pelican Lake. Our view to the right was

bounded by a range of lofty hills, which extended for several miles in a

north and south direction, which, it may be remarked, was that of all

the hilly land we had passed since quitting the plain.

Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six miles from east to west,

and eight from north to south; it decreases to the breadth of a mile

towards the northern extremity, and is there terminated by a creek. We

went up this creek for a short distance, and then struck into the woods,

and encamped among a cluster of the firs, which the Canadians term

cyprès{34} (_pinus Banksiana_,) having come fourteen miles and a half.

_February 16_.--Shortly after commencing the journey to-day, we met an

Indian and his family, who had come from the houses at Green Lake; they

informed us the track was well beaten the whole way. We therefore, put

forth our utmost speed in the hope of reaching them by night; but were

disappointed, and had to halt at dark, about twelve miles from them, in

a fisherman's hut, which was unoccupied. Frequent showers of snow fell

during the day, and the atmosphere was thick and gloomy.

We started at an early hour the following morning, and reached the

Hudson's Bay Company's post to breakfast, and were received very kindly

by Mr. Mac Farlane, the gentleman in charge. The other establishment,

situated on the opposite side of the river, was under the direction of

Mr. Dugald Cameron, one of the partners of the North-West Company, on

whom Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival, and were honoured

with a salute of musquetry.

These establishments are small, but said to be well situated for

procuring furs; as the numerous creeks in their vicinity are much

resorted to by the beaver, otter, and musquash. The residents usually

obtain a superabundant supply of provision. This season, however, they

barely had sufficient for their own support, owing to the epidemic which

has incapacitated the Indians for hunting. The Green Lake lies nearly

north and south, is eighteen miles in length, and does not exceed one

mile and a half of breadth in any part. The water is deep, and it is in

consequence one of the last lakes in the country that is frozen.

Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in it from March to December,

but after that time most of the fish remove to some larger lake.

We remained two days, awaiting the return of some men who had been sent

to the Indian lodges for meat, and who were to go on with us. Mr. Back

and I did not need this rest, having completely surmounted the pain

occasioned by the snow-shoes. We dined twice with Mr. Cameron, and

received from him many useful suggestions respecting our future

operations. This gentleman having informed us that provisions would,

probably, be very scarce next spring in the Athabasca department, in

consequence of the sickness of the Indians during the hunting season,

undertook at my request to cause a supply of pemmican to be conveyed

from the Saskatchawan to Isle à la Crosse for our use during the winter,

and I wrote to apprize Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood, that they would find

it at the latter post when they passed; and also to desire them to bring

as much as the canoes would stow from Cumberland.

The atmosphere was clear and cold during our stay; observations were

obtained at the Hudson Bay Fort, lat. 54° 16' 10" N., long. 107° 29' 52"

W., var. 22° 6' 35" E.

_February 20_.--Having been equipped with carioles, sledges, and

provisions, from the two posts, we this day recommenced our journey,

and were much amused by the novelty of the salute given at our

departure, the guns being principally fired by the women in the absence

of the men. Our course was directed to the end of the lake, and for a

short distance along a small river; we then crossed the woods to the

Beaver River, which we found to be narrow and very serpentine, having

moderately high banks. We encamped about one mile and a half further up

among poplars. The next day we proceeded along the river; it was

winding, and about two hundred yards broad. We passed the mouths of two

rivers whose waters it receives; the latter one, we were informed, is a

channel by which the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. The banks of

the river became higher as we advanced, and were adorned with pines,

poplars, and willows.

Though the weather was very cold, we travelled more comfortably than at

any preceding time since our departure from Cumberland, as we had light

carioles, which enabled us to ride nearly the whole day, warmly covered

up with a buffalo robe. We were joined by Mr. McLeod, of the North-West

Company, who had kindly brought some things from Green Lake, which our

sledges could not carry. Pursuing our route along the river, we reached

at an early hour the upper extremity of the "Grand Rapid," where the ice

was so rough that the carioles and sledges had to be conveyed across a

point of land. Soon after noon we left the river, inclining N.E., and

directed our course N.W., until we reached Long Lake, and encamped at

its northern extremity, having come twenty-three miles. This lake is

about fourteen miles long, and from three quarters to one mile and a

half broad; its shores and islands low, but well wooded. There were

frequent snow-showers during the day.

_February 23_.--The night was very stormy, but the wind became more

moderate in the morning. We passed to-day through several nameless lakes

and swamps before we came to Train Lake, which received its name from

being the place where the traders procured the birch to make their

sledges, or traineaux; but this wood has been all used, and there only

remain pines and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden with fish,

kindly sent to meet us by Mr. Clark, of the Hudson's Bay Company, on

hearing of our approach. Towards the evening the weather became much

more unpleasant, and we were exposed to a piercingly cold wind, and much

snow-drift, in traversing the Isle à la Crosse Lake; we were, therefore,

highly pleased at reaching the Hudson's Bay House by six P.M. We were

received in the most friendly manner by Mr. Clark, and honoured by

volleys of musketry. Similar marks of attention were shewn to us on the

following day by Mr. Bethune, the partner in charge of the North-West

Company's Fort. I found here the letters which I had addressed from

Cumberland, in November last, to the partners of the North-West Company,

in the Athabasca, which circumstance convinced me of the necessity of

our present journey.

These establishments are situated on the southern side of the lake, and

close to each other. They are forts of considerable importance, being

placed at a point of communication with the English River, the

Athabasca, and Columbia Districts. The country around them is low, and

intersected with water, and was formerly much frequented by beavers and

otters, which, however, have been so much hunted by the Indians, that

their number is greatly decreased. The Indians frequenting these forts

are the Crees and some Chipewyans; they scarcely ever come except in the

spring and autumn; in the former season to bring their winter's

collection of furs, and in the latter to get the stores they require.

Three Chipewyan lads came in during our stay, to report what furs the

band to which they belonged had collected, and to desire they might be

sent for; the Indians having declined bringing either furs or meat

themselves, since the opposition between the Companies commenced. Mr.

Back drew the portrait of one of the boys.

Isle à la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island situated near the

forts, on which the Indians formerly assembled annually to amuse

themselves at the game of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for

abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen

pounds. The residents live principally upon this most delicious fish,

which fortunately can be eaten a long time without disrelish. It is

plentifully caught with nets throughout the year, except for two or

three months.

_March 4_.--We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very brilliant for the

second time since our departure from Cumberland. A winter encampment is

not a favourable situation for viewing this phenomenon, as the trees in

general hide the sky. Arrangements had been made for recommencing our

journey to-day, but the wind was stormy, and the snow had drifted too

much for travelling with comfort; we therefore stayed and dined with Mr.

Bethune, who promised to render every assistance in getting pemmican

conveyed to us from the Saskatchawan, to be in readiness for our

canoes, when they might arrive in the spring; Mr. Clark also engaged to

procure six bags for us, and to furnish our canoes with any other

supplies which might be wanted, and could be spared from his post, and

to contribute his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the Athabasca, if

our canoes could not carry it all.

I feel greatly indebted to this gentleman for much valuable information

respecting the country and the Indians residing to the north of Slave

Lake, and for furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we should

require. He had resided some years on Mackenzie's River, and had been

once so far towards its mouth as to meet the Esquimaux in great numbers.

But they assumed such a hostile attitude, that he deemed it unadvisable

to attempt opening any communication with them, and retreated as

speedily as he could.

The observations we obtained here shewed that the chronometers had

varied their rates a little in consequence of the jolting of the

carioles, but their errors and rates were ascertained previous to our

departure. We observed the position of this fort to be latitude 55° 25'

35" N., longitude 107° 51' 00" W., by lunars reduced back from Fort

Chipewyan, variation 22° 15' 48" W.,{35} dip 84° 13' 35".

_March 5_.--We recommenced our journey this morning, having been

supplied with the means of conveyance by both the Companies in equal

proportions. Mr. Clark accompanied us with the intention of going as far

as the boundary of his district. This gentleman was an experienced

winter traveller, and we derived much benefit from his suggestions; he

caused the men to arrange the encampment with more attention to comfort

and shelter than our former companions had done. After marching eighteen

miles we put up on Gravel Point, in the Deep River.

At nine the next morning, we came to the commencement of Clear Lake. We

crossed its southern extremes, and then went over a point of land to

Buffalo Lake, and encamped after travelling{36} twenty-six miles. After

supper we were entertained till midnight with paddling songs, by our

Canadians, who required very little stimulus beyond their natural

vivacity, to afford us this diversion. The next morning we arrived at

the establishments which are situated on the western side of the lake,

near a small stream, called the Beaver River. They were small log

buildings, hastily erected last October, for the convenience of the

Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr. Mac Murray, a partner in the N.W.

Company, having sent to Isle à la Crosse an invitation to Mr. Back and

I, our carioles were driven to his post, and we experienced the kindest

reception. These posts are frequented by only a few Indians, Crees, and

Chipewyans. The country round is not sufficiently stocked with animals

to afford support to many families, and the traders subsist almost

entirely on fish caught in the autumn, prior to the lake being frozen;

but the water being shallow, they remove to a deeper part, as soon as

the lake is covered with ice. The Aurora Borealis was brilliantly

displayed on both the nights we remained here, but particularly on the

7th, when its appearances were most diversified, and the motion

extremely rapid. Its coruscations occasionally concealed from sight

stars of the first magnitude in passing over them, at other times these

were faintly discerned through them; once I perceived a stream of light

to illumine the under surface of some clouds as it passed along. There

was no perceptible noise.

Mr. Mac Murray gave a dance to his voyagers and the women; this is a

treat which they expect on the arrival of any stranger at the post.

We were presented by this gentleman with the valuable skin of a black

fox, which he had entrapped some days before our arrival; it was

forwarded to England with other specimens.

Our observations place the North-West Company's House in latitude 55°

53' 00" N., longitude 108° 51' 10" W., variation 22° 33' 22" E.

The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height, and well wooded, but

immediately beyond the bank the country is very swampy and intersected

with water in every direction. At some distance from the western side

there is a conspicuous hill, which we hailed with much pleasure, as

being the first interruption to the tediously uniform scene we had for

some time passed through.

On the 10th we recommenced our journey after breakfast, and travelled

quickly, as we had the advantage of a well-beaten track. At the end of

eighteen miles we entered upon the river "Loche," which has a serpentine

course, and is confined between alluvial banks that support stunted

willows and a few pines; we encamped about three miles further on; and

in the course of the next day's march perceived several holes on the

ice, and many unsafe places for the sledges. Our companions said the ice

of this river is always in the same insecure state, even during the most

severe winter, which they attributed to warm springs. Quitting the

river, we crossed a portage and came upon the Methye Lake, and soon

afterwards arrived at the trading posts on its western side. These were

perfect huts, which had been hastily built after the commencement of

the last winter. We here saw two hunters who were Chipewyan half-breeds,

and made many inquiries of them respecting the countries we expected to

visit, but we found them quite ignorant of every part beyond the

Athabasca Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne and of his companion

Matonnabee, but did not add to our stock of information respecting that

journey. It had happened before their birth, but they remembered the

expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie towards the sea.

This is a picturesque lake, about ten miles long and six broad, and

receives its name from a species of fish caught in it, but not much

esteemed; the residents never eat any part but the liver except through

necessity, the dogs dislike even that. The tittameg and trout are also

caught in the fall of the year. The position of the houses by our

observations is latitude 56° 24' 20" N., longitude 109° 23' 06" W.,

variation 22° 50' 28" E.

On the 13th we renewed our journey and parted from Mr. Clark, to whom we

were much obliged for his hospitality and kindness. We soon reached the

Methye Portage, and had a very pleasant ride across it in our carioles.

The track was good and led through groups of pines, so happily placed

that it would not have required a great stretch of imagination to fancy

ourselves in a well-arranged park. We had now to cross a small lake, and

then gradually ascended hills beyond it, until we arrived at the summit

of a lofty chain of mountains commanding the most picturesque and

romantic prospect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of high

hills run parallel to each other for several miles, until the faint blue

haze hides their particular characters, when they slightly change their

course, and are lost to the view. The space between them is occupied by

nearly a level plain, through which a river pursues a meandering course,

and receives supplies from the creeks and rills issuing from the

mountains on each side. The prospect was delightful even amid the snow,

and though marked with all the cheerless characters of winter; how much

more charming must it be when the trees are in leaf, and the ground is

arrayed in summer verdure! Some faint idea of the difference was

conveyed to my mind by witnessing the effect of the departing rays of a

brilliant sun. The distant prospect, however, is surpassed in grandeur

by the wild scenery which appeared immediately below our feet. There the

eye penetrates into vast ravines two or three hundred feet in depth,

that are clothed with trees, and lie on either side of the narrow

pathway descending to the river over eight successive ridges of hills.

At one spot termed the Cockscomb, the traveller stands insulated as it

were on a small slip, where a false step might precipitate him into the

glen. From this place Mr. Back took an interesting and accurate sketch,

to allow time for which, we encamped early, having come twenty-one

miles.

The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in extent, and over this space

the canoes and all their cargoes are carried, both in going to and from

the Athabasca department. It is part of the range of mountains which

separates the waters flowing south from those flowing north. According

to Sir Alexander Mackenzie, "this range of hills continues in a S.W.

direction until its local height is lost between the Saskatchawan and

Elk Rivers, close on the banks of the former, in latitude 53° 36' N.,

longitude 113° 45' W., when it appears to take its course due north."

Observations, taken in the spring by Mr. Hood, place the northside of

the portage in latitude 56° 41' 40" N., longitude 109° 52' 15" W.,

variation 25° 2' 30" E., dip 85° 7' 27".

At daylight on the 14th we began to descend the range of hills leading

towards the river, and no small care was required to prevent the

sledges from being broken in going down these almost perpendicular

heights, or being precipitated into the glens on each side. As a

precautionary measure the dogs were taken off, and the sledges guided by

the men, notwithstanding which they descended with amazing rapidity, and

the men were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes in endeavouring

to stop them. When we had arrived at the bottom I could not but feel

astonished at the laborious task which the voyagers have twice in the

year to encounter at this place, in conveying their stores backwards and

forwards. We went across the Clear Water River, which runs at the bases

of these hills, and followed an Indian track along its northern bank, by

which we avoided the White Mud and Good Portages. We afterwards followed

the river as far as the Pine Portage, when we passed through a very

romantic defile of rocks, which presented the appearance of Gothic

ruins, and their rude characters were happily contrasted with the

softness of the snow, and the darker foliage of the pines which crowned

their summits. We next crossed the Cascade Portage, which is the last on

the way to the Athabasca Lake, and soon afterwards came to some Indian

tents, containing five families, belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We

smoked the calumet in the Chiefs tent, whose name was the Thumb, and

distributed some tobacco and a weak mixture of spirits and water among

the men. They received this civility with much less grace than the

Crees, and seemed to consider it a matter of course. There was an utter

neglect of cleanliness, and a total want of comfort in their tents; and

the poor creatures were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied

us from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being in this forlorn

condition by explaining, that this band of Indians had recently

destroyed every thing they possessed, as a token of their great grief

for the loss of their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears

that no article is spared by these unhappy men when a near relative

dies; their clothes and tents are cut to pieces, their guns broken, and

every other weapon rendered useless, if some person do not remove these

articles from their sight, which is seldom done.--Mr. Back sketched one

of the children, which delighted the father very much, who charged the

boy to be very good, since his picture had been drawn by a great chief.

We learned that they prize pictures very highly, and esteem any they can

get, however badly executed, as efficient charms. They were unable to

give us any information respecting the country beyond the Athabasca

Lake, which is the boundary of their peregrinations to the northward.

Having been apprized of our coming, they had prepared an encampment for

us; but we had witnessed too many proofs of their importunity to expect

that we could pass the night near them in any comfort, whilst either

spirits, tobacco, or sugar remained in our possession; and therefore

preferred to go about two miles further along the river, and to encamp

among a cluster of fine pine-trees, after a journey of sixteen miles.

On the morning of the 15th, in proceeding along the river we perceived a

strong smell of sulphur, and on the north shore found a quantity of it

scattered, which seemed to have been deposited by some spring in the

neighbourhood: it appeared very pure and good. We continued our course

the whole day along the river, which is about four hundred yards wide,

has some islands, and is confined between low land, extending from the

bases of the mountains on each side. We put up at the end of thirteen

miles, and were then joined by a Chipewyan, who came, as we supposed, to

serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet, but as none of the party could

communicate with our new friend, otherwise than by signs, we waited

patiently until the morning to see what he intended to do. The wind blew

a gale during the night, and the snow fell heavily. The next day our

guide led us to the Pembina River, which comes from the southward, where

we found traces of Indians, who appeared to have quitted this station

the day before; we had, therefore, the benefit of a good track, which

our dogs much required, as they were greatly fatigued, having dragged

their loads through very deep snow for the last two days. A moose-deer

crossed the river just before the party: this animal is plentiful in the

vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant well-sheltered place, having

travelled fourteen miles.

A short distance on the following morning, brought us to some Indian

lodges, which belonged to an old Chipewyan chief, named the Sun, and his

family, consisting of five hunters, their wives, and children. They were

delighted to see us, and when the object of our expedition had been

explained to them, expressed themselves much interested in our progress;

but they could not give a particle of information respecting the

countries beyond the Athabasca Lake. We smoked with them, and gave each

person a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. A Canadian servant of

the North-West Company, who was residing with them, informed us that

this family had lost numerous relatives, and that the destruction of

property, which had been made after their deaths, was the only cause

for the pitiable condition in which we saw them, as the whole family

were industrious hunters, and, therefore, were usually better provided

with clothes, and other useful articles, than most of the Indians. We

purchased from them a pair of snow-shoes, in exchange for some

ammunition. The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and easy

to walk in; we saw some here upwards of six feet long, and three broad.

With these unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the spring, when there is

a crust on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or red deer.

We made very slow progress after leaving this party, on account of the

deep snow, but continued along the river until we reached its junction

with the Athabasca or Elk River. We obtained observations on an island,

a little below the Forks, which gave, longitude 111° 8' 42" W.,

variation 24° 18' 20" E. Very little wood was seen during this day's

march. The western shore, near the Forks, is destitute of trees; it is

composed of lofty perpendicular cliffs, which were now covered with

snow. The eastern shore supports a few pines.

_March 18_.--Soon after our departure from the encampment, we met two

men from the establishment at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct

information of its situation and distance. Having the benefit of their

track, we marched at a tolerably quick pace, and made twenty-two miles

in the course of the day, though the weather was very disagreeable for

travelling, being stormy, with constant snow. We kept along the river

the whole time: its breadth is about two miles. The islands appear

better furnished with wood than its banks, the summits of which are

almost bare. Soon after we had encamped our Indian guide rejoined us; he

had remained behind the day before, without consulting us, to accompany

a friend on a hunting excursion. On his return he made no endeavour to

explain the reason of his absence, but sat down coolly, and began to

prepare his supper. This behaviour made us sensible that little

dependence is to be placed on the continuance of an Indian guide, when

his inclination leads him away.

Early the next morning we sent forward the Indian and a Canadian, to

apprize the gentleman in charge of Pierre au Calumet of our approach;

and, after breakfast, the rest of the party proceeded along the river

for that station, which we reached in the afternoon. The senior partner

of the North-West Company in the Athabasca department, Mr. John Stuart,

was in charge of the post. Though he was quite ignorant until this

morning of our being in the country, we found him prepared to receive us

with great kindness, and ready to afford every information and

assistance, agreeably to the desire conveyed in Mr. Simon McGillivray's

circular letter. This gentleman had twice traversed this continent, and

reached the Pacific by the Columbia River; he was therefore, fully

conversant with the different modes of travelling, and with the

obstacles that may be expected in passing through unfrequented

countries. His suggestions and advice were consequently very valuable to

us, but not having been to the northward of the Great Slave Lake, he had

no knowledge of that line of country, except what he had gained from the

reports of Indians. He was of opinion, however, that positive

information, on which our course of proceedings might safely be

determined, could be procured from the Indians that frequent the north

side of the lake, when they came to the forts in the Spring. He

recommended my writing to the partner in charge of that department,

requesting him to collect all the intelligence he could, and to provide

guides and hunters from the tribe best acquainted with the country

through which we proposed to travel.

To our great regret, Mr. Stuart expressed much doubt as to our

prevailing upon any experienced Canadian voyagers to accompany us to

the sea, in consequence of their dread of the Esquimaux; who, he

informed us, had already destroyed the crew of one canoe, which had been

sent under Mr. Livingstone, to open a trading communication with those

who reside near the mouth of the Mackenzie River; and he also mentioned,

that the same tribe had driven away the canoes under Mr. Clark's

direction, going to them on a similar object, to which circumstance I

have alluded in my remarks at Isle à la Crosse.

This was unpleasant information; but we were comforted by Mr. Stuart's

assurance that himself and his partners would use every endeavour to

remove their fears, as well as to promote our views in every other way;

and he undertook, as a necessary part of our equipment in the spring, to

prepare the bark and other materials for constructing two canoes at this

post.

Mr. Stuart informed us that the residents at Fort Chipewyan, from the

recent sickness of their Indian hunters, had been reduced to subsist

entirely on the produce of their fishing-nets, which did not then yield

more than a bare sufficiency for their support; and he kindly proposed

to us to remain with him until the spring: but, as we were most desirous

to gain all the information we could as early as possible, and Mr.

Stuart assured us that the addition of three persons would not be

materially felt in their large family at Chipewyan, we determined on

proceeding thither, and fixed on the 22d for our departure.

Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the place where the stone is

procured, of which many of the pipes used by the Canadians and Indians

are made. It is a clayey limestone, impregnated with various shells. The

house, which is built on the summit of a steep bank, rising almost

perpendicular to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, commands an

extensive prospect along this fine river, and over the plains which

stretch out several miles at the back of it, bounded by hills of

considerable height, and apparently better furnished with wood than the

neighbourhood of the fort, where the trees grow very scantily. There had

been an establishment belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company on the

opposite bank of the river, but it was abandoned in December last, the

residents not being able to procure provision, from their hunters having

been disabled by the epidemic sickness, which has carried off one-third

of the Indians in these parts. They belong to the Northern Crees, a name

given them from their residing in the Athabasca department. There are

now but few families of these men, who, formerly, by their numbers and

predatory habits, spread terror among the natives of this part of the

country.

There are springs of bituminous matter on several of the islands near

these houses; and the stones on the river-bank are much impregnated with

this useful substance. There is also another place remarkable for the

production of a sulphureous salt, which is deposited on the surface of a

round-backed hill about half a mile from the beach, and on the marshy

ground underneath it. We visited these places at a subsequent period of

the journey, and descriptions of them will appear in Dr. Richardson's

Mineralogical Notices.

The latitude of the North-West Company's House is 57° 24' 06" N., but

this was the only observation we could obtain, the atmosphere being

cloudy. Mr. Stuart had an excellent thermometer, which indicated the

lowest state of temperature to be 43° below zero. He told me 45° was the

lowest temperature he had ever witnessed at the Athabasca or Great Slave

Lake, after many years' residence. On the 21st it rose above zero, and

at noon attained the height of 43°; the atmosphere was sultry, snow fell

constantly, and there was quite an appearance of a change in the season.

On the 22d we parted from our hospitable friend, and recommenced our

journey, but under the expectation of seeing him again in May; at which

time the partners of the Company usually assemble at Fort Chipewyan,

where we hoped the necessary arrangements for our future proceedings

would be completed. We encamped at sunset at the end of fourteen miles,

having walked the whole way along the river, which preserves nearly a

true north course, and is from four hundred to six hundred yards broad.

The banks are high, and well clothed with the liard, spruce, fir, alder,

birch-tree, and willows. Having come nineteen miles and a half, on the

23d, we encamped among pines of a great height and girth.

Showers of snow fell until noon on the following day, but we continued

our journey along the river, whose banks and islands became gradually

lower as we advanced, and less abundantly supplied with wood, except

willows. We passed an old Canadian, who was resting his wearied dogs

during the heat of the sun. He was carrying meat from some Indian lodges

to Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding two hundred and fifty

pounds on his sledge, which was dragged by two miserable dogs. He came

up to our encampment after dark. We were much amused by the altercation

that took place between him and our Canadian companions as to the

qualifications of their respective dogs. This, however, is such a

general topic of conversation among the voyagers in the encampment, that

we should not probably have remarked it, had not the old man frequently

offered to bet the whole of his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean

as they were, would drag their load to the Athabasca Lake in less time

than any three of theirs. Having expressed our surprise at his apparent

temerity, he coolly said the men from the lower countries did not

understand the management of their dogs, and that he depended on his

superior skill in driving; and we soon gathered from his remarks, that

the voyagers of the Athabasca department consider themselves very

superior to any other. The only reasons which he could assign were, that

they had borne their burdens across the terrible Methye Portage, and

that they were accustomed to live harder and more precariously.

_March 25_.--Having now the guidance of the old Canadian, we sent

forward the Indian, and one of our men, with letters to the gentleman at

the Athabasca Lake. The rest of the party set off afterwards, and kept

along the river until ten, when we branched off by portages into the

Embarras River, the usual channel of communication in canoes with the

lake. It is a narrow and serpentine stream, confined between alluvial

banks which support pines, poplars, and willows. We had not advanced far

before we overtook the two men despatched by us this morning. The stormy

weather had compelled them to encamp, as there was too much drifting of

the snow for any attempt to cross the lake. We were obliged, though most

reluctantly, to follow their example; but comforted ourselves with the

reflection that this was the first time we had been stopped by the

weather during our long journey, which was so near at an end. The gale

afterwards increased, the squalls at night became very violent,

disburthened the trees of the snow, and gave us the benefit of a

continual fall of patches from them, in addition to the constant shower.

We therefore quickly finished our suppers, and retired under the shelter

of our blankets.

_March 26_.--The boisterous weather continued through the night, and it

was not before six this morning that the wind became apparently

moderate, and the snow ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately

sent off with letters to the gentlemen at Fort Chipewyan. After

breakfast we also started, but our Indian friend, having a great

indisposition to move in such weather, remained by the fire. We soon

quitted the river, and after crossing a portage, a small lake, and a

point of land, came to the borders of the Mamma-wee Lake. We then found

our error as to the strength of the wind; and that the gale still blew

violently, and there was so much drifting of the snow as to cover the

distant objects by which our course could be directed. We fortunately

got a glimpse through this cloud of a cluster of islands in the

direction of the houses, and decided on walking towards them; but in

doing this we suffered very much from the cold, and were obliged to halt

under the shelter of them, and await the arrival of our Indian guide. He

conducted us between these islands, over a small lake and by a swampy

river, into the Athabasca Lake, from whence the establishments were

visible. At four P.M. we had the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan,

and of being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the partners of the

North-West Company in charge, in the most kind and hospitable manner.

Thus terminated a winter's journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven

miles, in the progress of which there was a great intermixture of

agreeable and disagreeable circumstances. Could the amount of each be

balanced, I suspect the latter would much preponderate; and amongst

these the initiation into walking in snow-shoes must be considered as

prominent. The suffering it occasions can be but faintly imagined by a

person who thinks upon the inconvenience of marching with a weight of

between two and three pounds constantly attached to galled feet, and

swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable the novice to

surmount this pain.

The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness the wanton and

unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially those of the

Canadians, who beat them unmercifully, and habitually vent on them the

most dreadful and disgusting imprecations. There are other

inconveniences which though keenly felt during the day's journey, are

speedily forgotten when stretched out in the encampment before a large

fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions, who usually pass

the evening in recounting their former feats in travelling. At this time

the Canadians are always cheerful and merry, and the only bar to their

comfort arises from the frequent interruption occasioned by the dogs,

who are constantly prowling about the circle, and snatching at every

kind of food that happens to be within their reach. These useful animals

are a comfort to them afterwards, by the warmth they impart when lying

down by their side or feet, as they usually do. But the greatest

gratifications a traveller in these regions enjoys, are derived from the

hospitable welcome he receives at every trading post, however poor the

means of the host may be; and from being disrobed even for a short time

of the trappings of a voyager, and experiencing the pleasures of

cleanliness.

The following are the estimated distances, in statute miles, which Mr.

Back and I had travelled since our departure from Cumberland:

From Cumberland House to Carlton House 263

From Carlton to Isle à la Crosse 230

From Isle à la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage 124

From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan 240

----

857 Miles.