PERUVIAN HOSPITALITY AND CULTURE
[Illustration: A MODERN PRIVATE RESIDENCE OF LIMA.]
If the Spanish-Americans have inherited from their European ancestors
too much of the aristocratic pride and military arrogance that
distinguished Peninsular crusaders, they have also fallen heir to the
courtly grace and admirable _savoir faire_ which made the Knights of
Santiago and Alcantara famous among the first gentlemen of Europe four
centuries ago, and which, descending to their children’s children, have
become characteristic of the Spanish-speaking people all over the world.
In America, and more particularly in Peru, the influence of New World
conditions fostered a relaxation of austere exclusiveness and a
softening of military severity; the lavish opulence that reigned in the
viceroyalty, with its attendant pleasures, led colonial society to
assume a gayety and freedom which would have been impossible in the
atmosphere of rigorous etiquette that dominated Madrid, and Lima
gradually became more renowned for its sociability than for the
strictness of its court. Both influences may be seen, however, in the
development of the Peruvian society of to-day, which is reserved and
dignified in manner, clever, hospitable, and kind.
Although the national traits vary according to locality and inherited
tendencies, the inhabitants of the coast possessing characteristics
which are not so clearly defined in the people of the sierra, while
these again differ in their customs from their neighbors of the Amazon
valleys, yet, everywhere and at all times, the Peruvian’s _Mi casa es á
Và_—“My house is yours”—is a spontaneous word of welcome. The Limeños,
as natives of the capital are called, are noted for their _esprit_ and
imagination, and are especially gifted in the social qualities for which
their ancestors were celebrated a hundred years ago; while they are,
happily, outgrowing the heritage of less admirable tendencies,
bequeathed by the luxurious and extravagant society of the viceregal
court. The progress of the nation within the past half a century shows
that the race is strong, full of purpose, and capable of working out a
noble destiny. During the first twenty years of the republic, the social
life of Lima did not change greatly from what it had been in the
pleasure-loving court of the viceroyalty. Visitors to Peru in those
early times tell us that the propensity for card playing was one of the
greatest evils the new government had to combat, and that ministers,
envoys, and officers of all ranks fell under its spell. It is said that
the celebrated Baquijano once had to send for a bullock cart to take
home his winnings, amounting to more than thirty thousand dollars. The
chroniclers do not state whether the game resembled our modern poker or
our bridge whist! Those were the days when General San Martin gave his
assemblies at the palace once a week, and balls were held at which round
dances began to take the place of the _minuet_, the _mariquita_, and the
_fandango_. As the influence of the new régime made itself felt
everywhere, political and literary coteries lessened the number of card
parties and music and dancing became more popular in the houses of the
leading people.
It was not so easy to reform the custom, popular among the ladies of
those days, of wearing the _saya y manto_, a coquettish feminine dress
of the viceregal period, which had been under the ban of devout
churchmen for two hundred years before the independence. Its evil
influence seems to have been of a subtle kind, to judge from the
conflicting impressions it made on different travellers. It is described
by one who was in Lima a century ago and saw the ladies of that day
arrayed in all their charming grace and armed with their irresistible
coquetries, as “a very handsome and genteel costume;” though not all
foreigners described it in such moderate and conventional terms. The
_saya_ was a skirt of velvet, satin, or stuff, of black, purple, pale
blue, or other colors, sometimes striped; it was pleated in small folds
and clung to the figure in such a way as to display the contour to the
best advantage. Some of these _sayas_ were very narrow at the bottom so
that the wearer was obliged to take short steps in walking, a custom
that made the Limeña’s tiny feet look still smaller as she tripped
daintily along the street; the bottom of her _saya_ was often trimmed
with lace, fringe, pearls, or artificial flowers; the smaller her feet,
the richer and more elaborate was the garniture that bordered her
_saya_. With this garment went the _manto_, a hood of thin black silk
drawn around the waist and then carried over the head and held together
in front so as to hide all the face except one eye. It is said that in
this costume a lady could pass her most intimate friend without being
recognized, and mystery enveloped the identity of every feminine figure
seen on the street in those days. A dainty lace handkerchief, a rosary
in the hand, a glimpse of satin shoes and silk stockings, and an
abundance of jewels completed the toilette. The _manto_ was undoubtedly
derived from the Moors, and must have appeared a curious headdress when
seen for the first time. The Limeñas wore it in the most fascinating
style, and the one eye that was visible between its folds was made to do
double duty as a weapon of war or love. The secret of enhancing its
potent charm was as complicated as are the mysteries of the _tocador_ in
modern Spanish boudoirs. It was customary to darken the brows and
heighten the brilliancy of the eyes with cosmetics when Nature proved
unkind or too sparing of her favors; though it was the exception, as it
is to-day, when a Limeña’s eyes lacked beauty and brilliancy. Gradually
the _saya y manto_ gave place to the very full skirt and
mantilla,—similar to the costume still worn to church service. A long
war was waged against the _manto_ by the authorities of the viceroyalty,
who claimed that it fostered intrigue and a thousand dangerous
proclivities; but the wearers insisted that it protected their
complexion from the sun, and was necessary for their personal comfort as
well as convenience. As early as 1609 an attempt was made to prohibit
the _saya y manto_ in Lima, but not until it declined in fashion, more
than two hundred years later, did the Lima belles abandon this mode for
a more modern costume. It is said that the _saya y manto_ played a very
important part in the cause of independence, and that the wearers of
this effective disguise carried messages, assisted the patriots when
imprisonment or hardship overtook them, and rendered a great many
valuable services to the cause of liberty.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN, LIMA.]
[Illustration: GRAND STAND OF THE JOCKEY CLUB, LIMA.]
Many of the leading families of Peru are descendants of Spanish nobles
who came over with the viceroys, and a few trace their ancestry from the
conquerors; but the best fibre of the nation is derived from the
enterprising colonists who established commerce in the country during
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, and by their industry and
practical energy laid the foundations for a better development of the
mercantile interests of Peru. They helped to overcome the traditional
feeling that it was beneath the dignity of a Spaniard to be employed
otherwise than as a statesman, a soldier, a scholar, or a priest; and
among the descendants of Spanish grandees are to be found to-day many
active and progressive bankers, merchants, constructing engineers, and
“captains of industry,” who are contributing to make Peru rich and
prosperous among the nations of the modern world. This spirit is more
generally seen in the capital and the seaports than in the cities of the
interior, though it is gradually extending to the remotest hamlets.
[Illustration: PRINCIPAL HALL OF THE INTERNATIONAL REVOLVER CLUB, LIMA.]
In Lima and Callao, increased attention is paid to business every year,
and the days of fiesta, which once numbered almost as many as those
devoted to work, are being constantly reduced, even the holidays that
remain, though none the less thoroughly enjoyed, having lost many
colonial features. Carnival, the gayest holiday festival of the year, is
now quite a subdued celebration compared with what it was in the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, when “Lima was no more than a city
of Andalusia transplanted to the New World, with all the extravagances
of the romantic, artistic, and audacious spirit of old Seville, Malaga,
and Cordova.” The freedom of the Carnival season then pervaded all ranks
of society, and for three days no one thought of anything but pleasure.
As late as the end of the eighteenth century, the mask and domino were
_costumes de rigueur_ for Carnival, and fancy dress balls were given in
many private residences. The Viceroy Amat made the Carnival season one
of unprecedented gayety, with bull fights, promenades in the Avenida de
Acho, and a _bal masque_ at night. One can imagine the charm of these
festivities in the delightful climate of Lima, with the soft music of
the guitar and the mandolin vibrating on the night air under a dozen
balconies, and the dance of the _mariquita_ and the _fandango_ keeping
time to a clicking of castanets in hundreds of gayly decorated _salas_.
The _saya y manto_ played its part, and many a jealous episode followed
the rivalry among young Limeños for the favor of a glance from the one
eye that looked out tantalizingly through a _tapada_. The custom of
deluging the passer-by with the contents of a water-jug was formerly
more general than it is to-day, when the little red _globo_ of scented
water is the chief weapon of Carnival sport. The _globo_, when filled,
is about one-fourth the size of a toy balloon, and is made of the same
material, breaking easily and splashing its contents over the victim at
whom it is thrown. Though Carnival is still a merry holiday, modern
municipal ordinances are annually restricting its more extravagant
features.
[Illustration: THE AMERICAN LEGATION AT LIMA.]
The national holiday, July 28th, the anniversary of Peruvian
independence, is celebrated with patriotic processions, speeches, and
entertainments; it is the opening day of Congress, and is always an
occasion of general festivity. The day begins, as do all public holidays
in Peru, with religious service in the Cathedral. There are eighteen
public holidays, two of which, Independence Day and the feast day of Our
Lady of Mercy, the patron saint of the arms of Peru, are recognized as
national. The feast of Our Lady of Mercy is held on the 24th of
September, and is celebrated with imposing church ceremonies and a
magnificent procession, in which the high church dignitaries, with the
Archbishop of Lima at their head, are present. The various religious
orders, including the Franciscan, Dominican, Augustinian, and others,
form part of the procession, and the army appears in gala uniform and
full force of infantry, cavalry, and artillery. The church service,
attended by the president of the republic and his cabinet, is one of
especial solemnity, and all Lima does homage to the occasion. The
streets and plazas are thronged by sunrise, an eager crowd assembling in
front of the government palace to see the president pass in his handsome
state coach drawn by eight horses and guided by a smart coachman and
grooms. Another annual feast day of importance, at least in the capital,
is the 30th of August, the day set apart for the celebration in honor of
Santa Rosa de Lima, the patron saint of Lima, the Philippines, and all
America. The birthday of St. Joseph (San José), the patron of the
republic of Peru, is celebrated on the 19th of March. The remaining
holidays are the same as those observed in all Catholic countries.
[Illustration: BARRANCO, A SEASIDE SUBURB OF LIMA.]
The hospitality of the Peruvians is especially seen in their homes,
where the stranger finds them thoughtful, courteous, and invariably
polite and attentive. One has here a good opportunity to learn the
family customs, which are simple and cordial. The houses of Peru are
generally of one or two stories, and are built around a court or
_patio_, which is usually beautified with plants and flowers and often
paved with ornamental tiles, making it a delightfully cool and
comfortable place for the family reunion in the evening. It takes the
place of the verandah, so popular in North America. The daily routine of
a Peruvian family does not differ greatly from that of the Latin people
in all countries, where the _desayuno_, or early breakfast, consists of
a cup of coffee and a roll, taken in one’s room, sometimes as early as
six o’clock, the midday meal, or breakfast proper, being much more
elaborate than the same meal in England or the United States, while the
dinner, between six and eight in the evening, is more or less the same
as in all countries. _Criollo_ cooking, as the preparation of food
according to Spanish-American taste is called, has given place in many
houses to the French _cuisine_, though one may still enjoy the peppery
dishes of native origin in the sierra, and a few choice specialties of
traditional excellence retain their hold on the national palate. The
after-dinner coffee is usually taken in the _patio_ in summer and in the
drawing-room during the season of the _garúa_. In the evening, music and
dancing are favorite amusements, the piano, guitar, mandolin, or other
musical instruments being among the necessities of every well-regulated
home. The foreigner is at once impressed by the refinement and grace
which distinguish the people in their home life, and which are evidences
of the long inheritance of a cultured race. Travellers have extolled the
people of Lima for their intelligence, imagination, and charming
hospitality; the _Arequipeños_ are eulogized by Flammarion, who says:
“Arequipa is the most agreeable place of abode in South America, not
only for the suavity of its climate but also because of the hospitable
customs of its people.” The cordiality of the families of Cuzco is no
less abundantly proved by those who have enjoyed a visit to this
historic city, in which it is the custom to extend charming hospitality
to the stranger. It is the same in the other cities of the republic,
where a kindly welcome awaits the visitor and every courtesy is shown to
the traveller.
[Illustration: PARK AT BARRANCO.]
The increasing population of foreigners in Peru, and the custom among
well-to-do Peruvians of sending their children to Europe and the United
States to complete their education has led to the introduction of more
cosmopolitan social customs than formerly existed, and this is seen
especially in the outdoor sports and amusements. Although the bull fight
and the Spanish game of _pelota_ still attract a large number of
spectators, the lawn tennis games are also popular; football and
baseball claim a great many enthusiastic Peruvian players, and regattas
are always attended by immense crowds of people. The horse races have
become a regular feature of sport, and at the _Cancha_, or race track,
on “Derby Day,” the best Lima society may be seen in its most
fashionable attire, which is usually of Parisian style and is often
imported direct from the French capital. The new president-elect of
Peru, Don Augusto Leguia, has a stock farm near the capital, on which
some of the best thoroughbreds of South America have been reared, and
his horses are usually among the favorite winners on Derby Day.
[Illustration: STAIRWAY OF THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA.]
Though most of the private fortunes of Limeños were swept away at the
time of the war with Chile, when the destruction of property was great
in Lima and its suburbs, as well as on the _haciendas_ of the wealthy
planters, yet the present generation has recovered a great deal of the
former prosperity, and at important social functions, such as the balls
given within the past two years to the Duke of the Abruzzi and Prince
Udine, of Italy, to General Saenz Peña of Argentina, and to Hon. Elihu
Root of the United States, the costumes and jewels displayed are of the
most costly and elegant description. The ladies of Lima have always been
famous for their winning and gracious manners, and every writer on Peru
has paid a compliment to their tiny feet, in which one traveller finds a
sufficient excuse for the _Q. b. s. p._ (“who kisses your feet”) with
which letters to ladies are usually finished in Spanish, instead of the
very matter-of-fact “Yours sincerely” that closes an epistle in English.
The Peruvian hostess entertains with the _grâce du salon_ which is hers
by inheritance, and her _tertulias_ are altogether charming. But she
does not confine her energies to social duties alone, her charities
occupying a great deal of attention. Three years ago, a number of ladies
of the best society of Lima formed a club, called the “Centro Social,”
for the purpose of establishing institutes in which the daughters of
gentlewomen without fortune could secure, free of charge, the necessary
training to fit them for earning their living. It was proposed to teach
stenography, bookkeeping, telegraphy, photography, drawing, and other
branches, which would provide the knowledge required by girls in search
of remunerative employment. This effort shows the spirit of practical
benevolence which animates the Limeña in her charitable work. It is a
long step toward relieving the pressure of modern needs when a race,
whose women have been so closely guarded as have those of Spanish
ancestry, can throw off the prejudices of traditional custom and meet a
present demand with a present remedy. The adverse fortunes of war in the
southern part of the United States forced many gently born women to
enter the business world. At first they stayed at home and earned a
pittance bending over the embroidery frame, but modern machinery made
even this a hopeless effort in the face of too strong competition, and
they turned their attention to more lucrative posts. While war continues
to destroy the natural breadwinners of society and to deplete the home
treasury, it is useless to preach about “woman’s sphere.”
[Illustration: MAIN CORRIDOR OF THE NATIONAL CLUB, LIMA.]
While the descendants of the Spaniards in Peru have been the directing
power in the affairs of the republic, as they were in the viceroyalty,
yet the _mestizo_ and the Indian have not remained ciphers in the social
development of the nation. The descendants of the Inca princes were
educated in colonial days in colleges especially established for that
purpose, and under the republic all classes of Indians have received the
benefits of instruction; but it is not to be expected that the
descendants of the Inca’s humble subjects can show the same degree of
progress as those whose ancestors were of the family of Manco-Ccapac,
and had the mental training of royal princes for long generations. The
latter are intelligent, very proud, and have shown themselves worthy of
the white man’s admiration on many occasions. General Andrés Santa Cruz
was of the Inca’s race, as were many others who contributed to the
triumph of republican principles in the great war of independence. In
the _sierra_, many families of Inca descent, whose sons have filled
posts of importance in the republic, have comfortable homes and broad
acres rich in harvests. The race, as a whole, however, shows no more
initiative to-day than at the time of the conquest; under the present
government, the Indian is generally contented and obedient, peacefully
cultivating the fields as he did under the Inca’s rule. His songs,
called _tristes_ by his Spanish compatriots, are most melancholy and
seem to express the sadness of ages. Indeed, the Indian himself looks
like a survival of antiquity, out of place in a modern world. The
_mestizos_ are apparently a much happier people than the Indians; they
are good artisans and are successful in trade. They attend faithfully to
religious duties, and throng the processions of the Virgin, and other
feasts in celebration of the saints. These processions take place in
every city and town of the republic, and though they have lost much of
the sumptuous magnificence that characterized all religious festivals
under the viceroyalty, they are still conducted with great ceremony.
[Illustration: ANNUAL PROCESSION IN HONOR OF SAINT ROSE OF LIMA.]
Both the religious and the educational institutions of the country have
contributed to impress on the social culture of the Peruvians a distinct
individuality; added to these influences, within recent years an
independent factor has been introduced, in the form of clubs and
societies of a literary and scientific character, which encourage the
development of independent thought among the people. Associations of
professional men meet to discuss the latest discoveries in the science
with which their labor is identified, and delegates are sent to the
principal gatherings of a scientific character which are held annually
in all parts of the world. The artisans also have their clubs and take
an increasing interest in the progress of industrial labor in their own
and other countries. In some of these clubs classes are held for the
purpose of education.
In order to know and appreciate the social life of a nation it is
necessary to become acquainted with its various public institutions, not
only the clubs and societies that represent the ambitions of a few
intellectual citizens, but its libraries and schools, the productions in
literature and art effected by its people, and the popular sentiment as
interpreted through the press. In the literature and the art of a nation
are expressed its deepest feeling and highest aspirations.
[Illustration: ROAD TO THE BEACH, CHORILLOS.]
[Illustration: PORTRAIT. BY ALBERT LYNCH.]