_Extracts from a Lecture by W. F. Giles (of Messrs. Sutton & Sons,
Reading)._
Although the English gardener could grow these vegetables as well as
the French and German, many English cooks have probably never heard
of some of these, for the simple reason that they are so seldom asked
for, and therefore there is little opportunity of learning about them.
Of course the first question usually asked is, “Can such be grown in
England?” And we assure inquirers there is no difficulty at all in the
cultivation. Many can be grown entirely in the open air, whilst those
which require shelter do not need much heat. Vegetables now play a very
important part in our everyday life, and during the past generation or
two have been so much improved, that there is now a varied assortment
at our disposal at all seasons of the year. It is somewhat remarkable
however, that, considering the large number of different types which
are suitable for cultivation in countries with a temperate climate,
only a small proportion are commonly grown in all, some of the
remainder being perhaps largely grown in one country, and practically
unknown in another. Even in the commoner kinds of vegetables different
nations have their peculiar fancies. For instance, take potatoes. In
this country we prefer white-fleshed sorts, which will cook floury,
whilst in France yellow-fleshed kinds, which have a close, waxy
texture, are more generally liked. Again, practically every Englishman
prefers the delicious marrow-fat peas with wrinkled seeds, but on the
Continent the small rounded sorts are still very largely grown for the
“petits pois,” although where the marrow-fats have been introduced they
are much appreciated. In this country also scarlet runner beans are
very much liked, but they are seldom, if ever, used in France, although
acres of dwarf beans are grown, the small pods of which are served
up whole. Then in cabbages, whilst we most appreciate the tender,
conical-headed kinds, in America the coarser Drumhead or flat-headed
types are almost exclusively grown in some parts, and on the Continent
it is rarely served up at all as a vegetable. The American specially
enjoys sweet corn or maize, squashes, and wax-pod beans; the German,
kohl-rabi and celeriac; the Italian, his finocchio or Florence fennel;
the Spaniard, his capsicums; whilst in France large quantities of
globe artichokes, aubergine or egg plant, chicory, salsify, and other
varieties are used, which are, however, not generally popular in the
other countries referred to. Even amongst what are usually looked upon
as English vegetables there are many types which are almost unknown
to the public in general, although of course they are familiar to
the majority of gardeners. Such as yellow tomatoes, custard marrows,
asparagus kale, white sprouting broccoli, couve tronchuda, mercury
(Good King Henry), spinach-beet, are a few examples, and I shall hope
to include some of them in my remarks.
=Aubergine or Egg Plant.=--There are several types of fruit of the
aubergine; some are quite white, and of the shape of an egg, but they
are mostly only used for decoration or garnishing. The round and long
fruited dark purple are those used for culinary purposes, and they may
be cooked in several ways; the fruit may be stuffed with chopped meat,
egg, mushroom, &c., and herbs, and baked.
=Bush Marrows (Tender and True).=--Generally speaking the majority of
marrows are of a trailing habit, but there are several which are known
as “Bush” marrows, and these throw out no runners at all. Where space
is limited these Bush varieties are very useful, but naturally they
will not keep up a supply like the trailing types, which produce fruit
all along the vines. In some parts of Bedfordshire the long white and
long green fruited Bush marrows are grown for market purposes, but the
round fruited kind (Tender and True) are a newer introduction. This is
a very prolific sort, producing several fruits at a joint, and if cut
when young they make a very nice dish.
=Capsicum.=--This plant is closely allied to the chilli, and is grown
in much the same way as the egg plant. There are various types of
capsicums and chillis; the pods of some large kinds which are fleshy
are used as vegetables in some countries, especially Spain and America.
In the former country it is largely in demand, and although it was
introduced into Naples by the Spaniards in the sixteenth century, its
use in Italy has not spread very much farther. When the fruits are
used as a vegetable they are picked green, and after the seeds have
been taken out they are filled with a stuffing made of meat, herbs,
bread and crumbs, and are then baked. They can also be partly boiled,
and afterwards baked. The long narrow fruits which one often sees in
pickles are forms of chilli, and sometimes the dried pods are ground
for cayenne pepper. The real cayenne pepper, however, appears to be
made from _Capsicum baccatum_ or bird pepper.
=Celeriac= is a form of celery in which the root has been developed
instead of the leaf-stalk. It has been largely grown in Germany for a
long time, and is there used both as salad and a cooked vegetable. It
is grown in much the same way as celery, except it does not require to
be put into trenches or earthed up. In the autumn the roots are ready
for use; and abroad it is often the practice during growth to break off
the lower leaves, which is supposed to induce better growth and size in
the roots. To cook them the roots are peeled and quartered, and boiled
till tender, and served up in the same way as beetroot, or they may be
sliced raw, and fried in butter till nearly brown.
=Chicory= when blanched is largely used for salad, and is very
wholesome; it is also cooked as a vegetable, in a similar manner to
seakale.
=Chow-Chow or Chinese Cabbage.=--It has the appearance of the Cos
lettuce. This vegetable is in season in the autumn or early winter. It
requires no heat.
=Climbing French Beans.=--This type of plant grows almost or quite as
late as the ordinary scarlet runner, but it has foliage like that of
the dwarf French bean, and with the same kind of smooth pod. They can
supply tender pods after the dwarf beans are over. There are several
varieties of this class; one called the Earliest of All can be gathered
as early as July, but probably Tender and True is the most useful if
only one is grown, as this bears so abundantly. The pods should be
cooked in the same way as dwarf beans.
=Couve Tronchuda or Portugal Cabbage= belongs to the Cabbage tribe, and
is a plant in which the large midribs have been much developed. It is a
delicious vegetable, quite easy to cultivate, and comes into use in the
autumn and early winter; this plant has been highly praised by those
who have tried it.
=Drumhead Kale.=--This is another type of kale not much known; instead
of producing leafage or shoots like most kales, this forms a head, and
it has large midribs, which are delicious when boiled; it partakes of
the flavour of seakale. The cultivation is the same as for ordinary
kales; this variety comes into use late in the autumn.
=Finocchio or Florence Fennel= is one of the favourite dishes of
the Italians, and around Naples it is grown by the acre. Generally
speaking, the plant has a slight resemblance to celery, and is used in
much the same way; the flavour, however, is sweeter than celery; in
fact it has a little taste of aniseed about it. This finocchio differs
from the fennel largely used for fish sauce, &c., and is eaten raw as a
salad, or cooked and served in the same way as is usual with celery.
=Garden Swedes.=--There are two forms, known as the white-fleshed
garden swede and the yellow-fleshed garden swede, which are much
superior for table purposes. They do not grow to so large a size as
the field types, have no coarse neck at the top of the root, and the
flavour is less strong. To those who like swedes I would strongly
recommend these. They can be sown from April onwards, and should be
grown in much the same way as turnips.
=Globe Artichokes= are grown plentifully in Italy, and can, with
care, be grown in England. As I have noted in the following chapters,
they can be blanched in the same way as the cardoon, which is closely
allied to the artichoke; the stalks are blanched from October to March
somewhat in the manner of celery, and when well cooked it makes an
excellent dish. Abroad the cardoon is much in demand, and is served in
a variety of ways.
=Kohl-rabi= belongs to the Cabbage family, in which the stem has been
induced to form a bulb. For many years large coarse types have been
grown in this country for cattle food, but the tender and fine leaved
forms have, until recent times, been little cultivated on this side of
the Channel. The bulbs should be used when they are about the size of
an orange.
=Mercury or Good King Henry= is very well known in some parts of
England, especially in the Lincolnshire district, where it is sometimes
called Lincolnshire asparagus. It is a perennial, and proves itself to
be a very useful plant.
=Orache or Mountain Spinach= is another plant which produces much leaf,
and which is used in the same way as the ordinary spinach. There are
white and red leaved varieties, and these reach a height of several
feet. The plant is easily cultivated.
=Poirée or Swiss Chard.=--This would be in season from late summer
until the early frosts cut it down, or the season may be extended by
lifting the plants and storing them.
=Petits Pois.=--The small-podded, round-seeded sorts such as Earliest
Blue are those used, although there is no reason why the small seeds of
almost any kind should not do equally well. The pods, however, of the
fine English marrow-fats would have to be gathered very young indeed,
or the seeds would be too large. There are several ways of preparing
“Petits Pois” according to the flavour desired. (_See_ Recipes.)
I am sure when these vegetables are more known, they will be as much
liked as those with which we are more familiar, and we are much
indebted to Messrs. Sutton & Sons for not only the information about
them, but the fact that the plants have been fully tested by them as
amenable to cultivation in England, and that the seeds can be obtained
from this firm.
=Salsify=, or, as it is sometimes called, the vegetable oyster, is a
plant producing a long fleshy taproot, which is entirely buried in the
ground. Salsify is cooked in various ways.
=Scorzonera= is a plant somewhat resembling salsify in character, but
differs from it in the leaf and the colour of the skin, which is nearly
or quite black. The cultivation and soil is the same for it as for
salsify, and the roots should be cooked in the same way.
=Spinach-Beet=, another member of the beet family, is known as the
“perpetual” or spinach-beet. It is a very useful plant, and if sown
in the spring and summer, much in the same way as beet, continues to
send up young foliage all through the autumn and winter. The foliage is
used exactly like spinach, and can be had when ordinary spinach is not
procurable. It is not necessary to deeply dig the ground, as it is only
the foliage which is used. Those who are fond of spinach would do well
to grow this for winter and spring supplies.
=Stachys Tuberifera= is a curious little vegetable, and has only been
introduced into Europe from China or Japan during the past few years;
its common name is Chinese artichoke; the tubers are used either boiled
or fried, and they have a nutty flavour.
=Sugar Corn or Maize.=--This plant, a form of maize, is very easy to
grow in this country; it makes a delicious dish, and I am surprised it
is not more often used. Even when we have short, or poor, summers the
earliest varieties seem to do very well here, and reach the stage at
which they should be cooked, although they would not often ripen their
seeds here, but they will not stand frost at all.
=Sugar Peas (Mangetout).=--These are cultivated in precisely the
same way as the ordinary type. They have no tough membrane inside,
consequently they are what is usually termed “stringless,” and as
such are cooked whole. The pods of the best varieties are usually
constricted, instead of being smooth and flat, and show the seeds
through. The plants grow to various heights, but those attaining six
feet or so give the best pods. The pods should be gathered when fairly
young--that is before the seeds are much developed--boiled whole, and
served up with melted butter.
=Wax-pod Bean= is another type of bean, known as Butter bean. The pods
are usually yellow or whitish, and are tender, without strings, and
if gathered fairly small and cooked whole are very nice. Should the
pods be too large to cook whole, they should be broken across in two
or three pieces--not slit with a knife. The culture is the same as for
dwarf and runner beans.
=White Sprouting Broccoli.=--Although the purple sprouting broccoli is
known to all, the white sprouting is not so familiar. It is cultivated
in the same way, and during March produces a large quantity of small
and tender white sprouts. The plant is hardy in most seasons, and the
young sprouts have a very agreeable, mild flavour.
=Winter Radish= is a very useful plant. The ordinary kind of radish
is of little use after it is full grown, but the class now referred to
remains in condition for a long time. Probably the best type is that
known as the Chinese rose colour. The seeds are sown about August, and
although the roots will be ready by October, they can be left in the
ground till wanted, or dug up and stored in sand. They grow larger than
the ordinary radishes, and are entirely buried in the ground, and even
when full grown remain solid and juicy.
=Witloef= is largely grown around Brussels, and is preferred for
cooking to chicory, although the smaller-leaved kinds do equally well
for salading; this can be had in season from October to the following
spring. It is this plant which is often served in Paris restaurants
under the name of “endive,” but it is of course different from endive
as we know it.