POTATO DISHES.

=To Boil Potatoes.=--Winter potatoes differ so much in quality and

habit that different varieties require different treatment. If they

turn black when cooked, or fall away outside before the heart is

tender, try them steamed in their jackets, or steamed without.

In England boiling the peeled potato is the universal custom, but in

Ireland they are wiser, and cook the tuber in the skin.

Wash the potatoes thoroughly, put into clean water, and peel with a

sharp knife; let the peel be as thin as possible, as the best part of

a potato lies near the outside; turn the tuber while peeling, this

greatly facilitates the process; cut out the eyes with a pointed knife;

plunge into abundance of cold water to cover. Put into a saucepan of

boiling water, a teaspoonful of salt to half a gallon of water, cook

for half an hour or a little less; drain off the water, put on one side

of the stove for five minutes, shaking constantly, dish very hot, and

serve. If it is necessary to keep them hot for some time, do not let

them remain in the water, but after draining draw to one side, and put

a clean towel, folded up in the pan, so as to absorb the steam.

=Steamed Potatoes.=--Prepare as for boiling, steam for three-quarters

of an hour; ten minutes before they are done, sprinkle a little salt

over them. Arrange neatly on the dish, and send to table very hot.

=Steamed Potatoes in their Jackets.=--Wash thoroughly, and leave them

to dry for a short time; then with a sharp knife make an incision round

the middle, steam for three-quarters of an hour, and before sending

to table remove the skins; these readily strip off in two parts. Be

careful to keep the potatoes hot.

=Baked Potatoes.=--Wash thoroughly, and leave them to dry for an hour;

then prick them and bake for an hour and a half in a moderate oven.

A longer time may be required if the potatoes are very large. Choose

tubers of equal size, and rather large. Up-to-Dates are the best

bakers. Send to table, with a napkin folded in the dish, but on no

account put a cover on; this would make them limp and dull.

=Brown Potatoes.=--Wash, peel, and dry the potatoes; cut to an equal

size. Put them in a dripping-tin, containing about an inch of melted

butter, or nutter; let it boil before the potatoes are put in, baste

occasionally, and when they have been in half an hour turn them over

and brown the other side; they will take an hour or more, according to

their size. Drain on kitchen paper, and serve in a hot tureen.

=Mashed Potatoes.=--Boil, and dry the potatoes according to directions

above; then draw the saucepan to one side and beat the potatoes with

a fork, or put them through a masher. Add half a cupful of hot milk,

with a piece of butter dissolved in it, and a little white pepper. More

or less milk may be used according to the quantity of potatoes; they

should be smooth and creamy, but not sticky.

=Browned Potatoes.=--Proceed as for mashed potatoes; heap them up in

the centre of a hot vegetable tureen, roughen them with a fork drawn

across and across. Then put in the oven to brown for a quarter of an

hour or ten minutes, or they may be browned in front of the fire or

with a salamander.

=New Potatoes.=--Wash in two or three waters to remove the sand; then

if they are freshly dug, the skin may be rubbed off with a gentle

movement of your thumb. The eyes will need to be removed afterwards,

but this method prepares the potatoes quickly, and with no waste; it

also preserves their shape. Drop them into a bowl of cold water as they

are finished. All potatoes turn brown if exposed to the air without

their skin when raw.

Allow half an hour to cook them, and see that they are all of the

same size as nearly as may be. Put them in cold water, enough to

quite cover, add a pinch of salt and a sprig of mint, and bring to

the boiling point. When tender pour off the water and drain for a

minute, then dish very hot, with a piece of fresh butter. Sometimes a

sprinkling of chopped parsley is added, but this interferes with the

delicate flavour of the potatoes, though it dresses the dish.

=Cold New Potatoes.=--(1) These may be used in various ways--none

should ever be wasted; they make a charming addition to a salad, cut

in slices, and put in the bottom of the bowl; cover with lettuce torn

into shreds, dress with a tiny pinch of salt, a good tablespoonful

of oil, toss well, then add half a teaspoonful of sugar, half a

tablespoonful of vinegar; mix thoroughly, decorate with sliced tomatoes

and hard-boiled eggs, cucumber, cold boiled peas, or young cold, boiled

carrots.

=Cold Boiled New Potatoes.=--(2) They may also be sliced and fried in

butter or nutter, with a sprinkle of pepper and salt, and a little

chopped parsley sprinkled over them.

=Children’s Pudding.=--Beat two ounces of sugar and two ounces of

butter together until smooth; beat two eggs together well, then stir

into the butter, adding a little juice and the grated rind of a lemon,

a little salt, and a little milk; pour this on to six tablespoonfuls of

mashed potatoes. Mix the whole thoroughly well together; pour it into a

greased pie-dish, and bake for about half an hour in a moderate oven.

=Potato Omelette.=--Press out the floury part of a large baked potato;

pass through a fine sieve; mix with it the yolks of three eggs, three

tablespoonfuls of milk, a few drops of lemon juice, a pinch of nutmeg,

a little salt and pepper; whisk the whites stiff, stir them lightly in,

and fry the omelette in one ounce of hot butter, cook very lightly, and

roll up very quickly.

=Potato Pie.=--Peel and slice two pounds of potatoes and one stick

of celery, shred an onion, and fry it in butter; put the whole into

a pie-dish, season with pepper and salt, add a little milk or water,

cover with short-crust paste, and bake in a quick oven for an hour.

=Potato Nüdelan.=--Make your nüdelans as the Italian gnocchi (see

Miscellaneous Dishes); only instead of flour make them with mashed

potatoes. Boil them for six minutes, and sprinkle them with more grated

Gruyère or Parmesan cheese, and pour over some brown melted butter

flavoured with onion.

=French Potato Pudding.=--Cook and mash some floury potatoes, rub

them through a sieve into a large dish, make into a paste by adding

two ounces of fresh butter and half a tumbler of cream or milk; beat

it into a smooth paste, season with salt and pepper, then add three

well-beaten yolks of eggs; butter a mould, and pour in the potato

mixture; make a hole in the centre, into which put some cooked and

seasoned mushrooms; cover the top with a piece of the paste, and cook

in the oven; when finished turn it into a dish, and serve hot.

=Potato Rissoles.=--Wash, peel, and boil ten potatoes, drain and rub

them through a wire sieve. Place them in a basin with salt, pepper,

and grated nutmeg, and add two yolks of eggs, one tablespoonful of

cream, and a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. Beat up till smooth,

make up into rissole shapes, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in hot

fat. Drain on kitchen paper, and dish up on a folded napkin or paper.

Garnish with fried parsley, and serve.

=Stuffed Potatoes.=--(1) Cut the tops from each of six potatoes, boiled

or baked in their jackets. Scoop out the pulp, and mash to a smooth

paste with three tablespoonfuls of butter; add cream, and salt and

pepper to season, and a quarter of a cupful of grated cheese, and cook

to a smooth paste. Take from the fire, and stir in one well-beaten egg.

Fill the skins, and bake.

=Stuffed Potatoes.=--(2) Peel some large potatoes, take out the

inside, and put in each one a stuffing made as follows:--One cup of

bread-crumbs, one cup of ground nuts, and a little chopped thyme and

parsley. Put the potatoes, with two ounces of butter, in a baking tin

to bake in a hot oven for an hour and a half. Baste frequently.

=Italian Potato Omelette.=--Mince up two cold boiled potatoes, sprinkle

with pepper and salt, and put them into a frying pan in which two

ounces of butter have been melted. Spread the potato one-third of

an inch deep in the pan, and cook slowly over a moderate fire for a

quarter of an hour, then turn over, as you would any other omelette,

and cook the other side. Serve hot.

=Stewed Potatoes in a Paper Bag.=--Wash and peel as many potatoes as

are wanted. Cut each into four thick slices and put into a greased

bag, with a finely chopped peeled onion, one tablespoonful of chopped

parsley, half a cupful of dripping, salt and pepper to taste, and half

a cupful of water. Bake in the oven for forty minutes or an hour. Turn

out on to a hot dish, and serve at once.

=Nut and Potato Croquettes.=--Two cupfuls of hot mashed potatoes and

three tablespoonfuls of cream, one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth of

a teaspoonful of pepper, a few grains of cayenne, and a few drops of

onion juice. Beat thoroughly, and add the yolk of an egg. Mix with a

quarter of a cupful of cream until of the consistency of a thick paste;

then add another yolk of an egg, and leave it to cool. Make a mixture

of ground nuts and a little cream, with the well-beaten white of an

egg, and seasoning. Shape the potato mixture into small nests, fill the

nests with nut mixture, cover with potato mixture, and roll into balls.

Dip in egg and crumbs, and fry in deep fat, and drain on kitchen paper.

=Potato Puff.=--(1) Beat to a cream two cupfuls of cold mashed potatoes

and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Add the yolks of two eggs

beaten up with a cupful of cream or milk; salt and pepper to season.

Fold in the stiffly beaten white of the eggs and pour into a buttered

baking dish, and bake until well puffed and brown, about three-quarters

of an hour.

=Potato Puff.=--(2) Beat with a fork three cold boiled potatoes; add

a pinch of salt, half a cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of minced

parsley, two eggs well beaten, and enough flour to make a batter that

will drop from a spoon; sift in half a teaspoonful of baking powder

with the flour. Drop by spoonfuls into deep fat, and fry brown.

=Escalloped Potatoes and Eggs.=--Slice finely four cold boiled potatoes

and six hard-boiled eggs. Put a layer of potatoes into a buttered

baking dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with a layer of

boiled eggs, and repeat until the dish is full, having potatoes on the

top. Pour over two cupfuls of thin cream and some white sauce. Cover

with buttered crumbs, and sprinkle with grated cheese if desired. Bake

until the crumbs are brown, half to three-quarters of an hour. Freshly

boiled potatoes may be used in the same way.

=Potato Timbâles.=--Cook, drain, and rub through a sieve enough boiled

potatoes to make one pound. Put into a bowl with three ounces of butter

melted, two whole eggs and the yolks of two. Season with salt, pepper,

and grated nutmeg, and mix thoroughly. Butter some plain timbâle

moulds, sprinkle with crumbs over the inside, fill with the potato

mixture. Sprinkle with crumbs and dot with butter, and bake for one

hour. Let the moulds stand for a few minutes before turning out.

=Potato with Cheese Sauce.=--Boil and mash one dozen peeled potatoes.

Season with salt and pepper and melted butter; add enough milk to make

very soft, and beat until very light. Heap into the centre of a baking

dish and make a hole in the centre. Brush with the beaten white of egg,

and brown in the oven. Melt a cupful of butter, and stir in gradually

five heaped tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and the beaten yolks of two

eggs. Season with salt and cayenne. Stir until thick and smooth, and

fill the hole in the potato mixture. Sprinkle with crumbs, and put into

the oven for five minutes longer.

=Deviled Stuffed Potatoes.=--Split lengthways, remove the pulp from

six baked potatoes. Mash smoothly, and add one hard-boiled egg chopped

finely. Salt, cayenne, and onion juice to season, and a little made

mustard. Fill the shells with the mixture, and brown in the oven.

PURSLANE (_Portulacea oleracea. Portulacaceæ_).

A light soil and a sunny border are best for this plant, which is a

half-hardy annual. Successional sowings may be made from May to the

beginning of August, in shallow drills; the plants should stand six

inches apart. Frequent waterings are necessary during dry weather.

The leaves are gathered as required, and either cooked or used in

salads.

The season of this subject may be prolonged by means of successional

sowings made in frames.

=Salad.=--Purslane is a kitchen-garden annual which has antiscorbutic

properties. There are several varieties of it, the best known being

the golden purslane, which, properly dressed, makes a tasty and much

appreciated salad. It is prepared like an ordinary salad, with the

addition of pimpernel, chervil, and tarragon. The stalks of purslane

can be pickled in vinegar, like gherkins.

RADISH (_Raphanus sativus. Cruciferæ_).

The earliest radishes may be sown in a frame in January. A light,

mellow soil is desirable, and if the slight bottom-heat of a nearly

exhausted hotbed be available, the radishes will be all the earlier.

For anything in the nature of forcing or framework it is important to

select a quick-growing, forcing variety with a strong tendency to the

formation of root rather than top, such as Early French Breakfast or

Wood’s frame varieties. Plenty of moisture and plenty of air during

non-frosty days are the secrets of growing radishes in a frame.

Later sowings of radish, beginning in March, may be made periodically,

according to the demand, as catch crops beneath a warm wall or fence,

then among early peas and in similar situations, and in summer in a

cool spot, with plenty of moisture available.

A radish must grow quickly and evenly, or it will be worthless.

Therefore they must have plenty of moisture, and not be crowded; half

an inch apart is quite near enough to grow them, whether sown broadcast

or in shallow drills.

Winter radishes may be sown in July or August in drills six inches

apart, the plants thinned to three inches in the rows. These form a

pleasant addition to winter salads, and are pulled as wanted, peeled

and sliced, much in the manner of cucumbers. The best variety for

winter salads is perhaps Large White Winter Spanish; we have also grown

the Chinese Rose Radish with success. Winter radishes are apt to be

rather strong and pungent, and it is largely on account of its flavour

we prefer the first named.

RAMPION (_Campanula Rapunculus. Campanulaceæ_).

This biennial native plant is not much used in the kitchen. Two sowings

may be made of it, one in May, the other six weeks later. Seed should

be sown very thinly in drills nine inches apart, and the plants thinned

to three inches distance in the rows. Rampion requires a plentiful

supply of water, and a fairly rich soil.

The roots will stand in the ground all the winter, and may be dug for

use as needed from October onwards.

The roots and leaves are used either raw in salads, or the roots may be

boiled and used after the manner of beetroots, or cooked and served as

a vegetable, like parsnips.

RHUBARB (_Rheum. Polygonaceæ_).

As this is a permanent crop the ground should be deeply trenched and

well manured for its reception. It prefers moist, cool soil, and is

extremely hardy. It is best propagated by division of the root, a good

crown bud with each root division.

February is the best month to plant, just before the roots in the

open would be naturally starting into growth. The distance between

the plants will depend both upon the variety selected and the nature

of the soil; they can be advantageously planted more closely in a

dry, thin soil than in a deep, cool loam, where they will naturally

attain a much larger size. For the small garden a small early red

variety is recommended, as this is a garden product well worth growing

for an early crop of well-flavoured produce: eighteen to thirty

inches distance should be allowed between the plants, according to

circumstances. A shady situation among fruit-trees will do well for

rhubarb.

The plants must not be pulled from the first year, and should have a

mulch given towards the end of May to tide them over the summer. Late

in January, or in February, boxes or pots should be placed over some of

the crowns; or a tripod of stakes may be placed over the crowns, and

loose litter shaken over. We dislike rhubarb forced by means of hot

manure, and think this method completely ruins the flavour.

Through the summer the plants will be none the worse for a very

occasional watering with weak liquid manure during showery weather. As

the leaves die down during autumn they should be cleared away, and all

made tidy for the winter.

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