CCLXXVI

MADRID, _October 24, 1864_.

DEAR FRIEND: I came here by chance, for I am stopping in the country,

and shall remain there until Saturday. It is abominably cold and damp,

and in consequence Madame de M.’s niece has taken erysipelas. Half of

the household are ill, and I have a severe cold. You are aware that

colds are serious matters to me, who find it difficult enough to breathe

even when I am well. The bad weather has continued a week, with shocking

violence, in harmony with the fashion of this country, where

transitions, of whatever sort are unknown.

Can you imagine the misery of people living on an elevated plateau,

exposed to every wind that blows, and having no means of keeping warm

excepting _braseros_, a primitive article of furniture which gives one

the choice of freezing or suffocating? I find that civilisation here has

made great progress, which, in my eyes, is no improvement. The women

have adopted your absurd hats, and wear them in the most grotesque

fashion. The bulls, also, have lost much of their merit, and the men who

kill them are nowadays ignorant, cowardly fellows.

This is the delightful story which now absorbs the minds of the

respectable public. Lady C., the wife of the minister of ----, she young

and pretty, he old and ugly, sued for divorce, on the grounds that her

husband was unjust towards her. The trial took place in London, and it

was decreed gallantly that he was a good-for-nothing. There are,

however, women in Madrid who assume to know that it was a calumny.

However that may be, the woman obtained her divorce, and almost

immediately afterwards married the duke of ----, who had for some time

paid court to her in Madrid. It seems that she has not the same grounds

of complaint towards her new husband as she had to the former, but here

is the devil of an affair. The duke of ---- has sued his half-sister, the

duchess of ----, on account of certain deeds, estates, etc. She has just

discovered that her brother, who was born in France, in order to succeed

to his inheritance, had presented a certificate of baptism signed by a

_curé_, an act which in France is illegal. It is found, moreover, that

this certificate is a counterfeit, and is contradicted by the

certificate of birth at the office of the Registry of State, which

proves that the present duke was born in Paris several years previously,

of an unknown mother. This mother is the third wife of the duke of ----,

married at that time to a fourth, for in that family the marriages are

always out of the ordinary.

This is going to make a pretty lawsuit, as you will see, and it is quite

possible that ex-lady C. will find herself some fine morning with no

peerage and no fortune. Meanwhile, she will soon arrive in Madrid with

her husband, and sir J. C. has requested a change of residence.

I have taken steps to find the _Nipi_ handkerchiefs, but I have not yet

succeeded in discovering any. Apparently they are no longer fashionable.

However, I am promised some the first of next month. I hope they will

keep their word.

Everything, it seems, is quiet enough, politically speaking. Besides, at

this moment it is too cold to fear a _pronunciamiento_. I think of

remaining here until the 10th or 12th of November, if I do not die of my

cold before then.

Where are you? What are you doing? Write to me soon.

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