CCLIV

BAGNÈRES-DE-BIGORRE, _September 1, 1862_.

DEAR FRIEND: I thank you for your letter. I shall send this to N----,

since you do not intend to stop in Paris, and I fancy that you have

already arrived there.

Speaking of the quarrels of the fisher folk, you have experienced that

which happens inevitably to a resident of Paris. The little disputes and

the little interests of the provinces seem so petty and so pitiable,

that one deplores the condition of people who live there. It is certain,

however, that after a few months in the country one does as the natives

do: one becomes interested in local affairs, and finally completely

provincial. This is sad for human intelligence, but it accepts the

nourishment offered, and makes the best of it.

Last week I made an excursion into the mountains to visit a farm

belonging to M. Fould. Situated on the border of a small lake, before it

lies the most superb panorama imaginable, and immediately surrounding it

is a forest of noble trees, something rarely seen in France. One can

live there in admirable comfort. M. Fould owns a great many superb

horses and cattle, all cared for in the English fashion. I was shown,

besides, a jack used for the breeding of mules. He is an enormous beast,

as tall as a gigantic stallion, black, and wicked-looking, as if he were

enraged. It seems that it is with the greatest difficulty that he can be

prevailed upon to show any attention to the mares. A jenny is brought

near him, and when his imagination has become fired, the mare is then

produced. What do you think of human ingenuity, which has invented all

these fine industries? You will be furious with my stories, and I can

see your expression from here.

Society becomes every day more stupid. In this connection, have you read

_Les Misérables_, and heard what is said of it? This is another instance

in which I find the human race inferior to that of the gorilla.

The waters are doing me good. I sleep better and have some appetite,

although I do not take much exercise, because my companion is not very

active. I expect to remain here almost a week still; I may then go to

Biarritz, or else into Provence. We have abandoned the plan of making a

visit to Lake Majeur, since the house where we were going cannot

entertain us at this time. I shall be in Paris, at the very latest, by

October 1st.

Good-bye, dear friend; good-bye, and write to me.

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