CCIV

PARIS, _September 15, 1859_.

I should have written to you from Tarbes immediately after receiving

your letter, but I was out all the time and in a constant state of

excitement. First came a letter from Saint Sauveur, where I was obliged

to go to spend a day; and the following day my visit was returned at the

home of M. Fould.[22] Consequently, there was a tremendous commotion,

and Madame Fould had to contrive a dinner and breakfast, which, in a

town like that I have just left, is no small undertaking. Besides, as

lodgings had to be provided for eight persons, I, as well as M. Fould’s

son, was obliged to give up my room and go to the inn. In the midst of

all this august upheaval, it would have been impossible to find paper

and pens in the house.

I left the 13th, to spend the night at Bordeaux, and arrived here last

night, without any other mishap than losing my keys, and among minor

misfortunes this is one of the most serious. I am still hoping to come

across them again, or else I must call in the locksmith. As for my visit

to Spain, I am depending on a friend who is to go with me. He is a

member of the Cortes, and his establishment is to open October 1st. We

shall go, probably, the 25th; I do not know his final decision. We shall

take the Marseilles route, in order to go by sea to Alicante....

This short trip to the Pyrenees has done me good. At Bagnères I took a

bath, which had a wonderfully soothing effect on my nerves, quieting

them for two days as I have not known for twenty years. The doctor there

is an old friend of mine, who urged me strongly to spend a season at the

baths next year. He guarantees that I shall come away a perfectly well

man. I am somewhat sceptical, but it is worth trying.

Their majesties were in good health and excellent spirits at Saint

Sauveur. I admired the behaviour of the natives, who had the good taste

not to follow them about, and wherever they went to leave them the most

complete liberty. While there the emperor bought a dog of the ancient

Pyrenean race. It is a little larger than a donkey, and is a beautiful

animal, which climbs over the rocks like a chamois.

It had been a long time since I had associated with the provincials. At

Tarbes they are an endurable class, and are exceedingly obliging.

Nevertheless, it passes comprehension how any one can remain with them

for a month. I had plenty of ortolans and quail _pâtés_ to eat, which

is, perhaps, a matter of more importance. You never mention your health.

I suppose it is excellent.

Good-bye.

... I shall write again before leaving.

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