The Changeability of Fashion—Bandeaux, Fronts, and Fillets—Plain
Bandeaux—Waved Bandeaux, with Fringe—To Wave the Hair of
Bandeaux—French (woven) Fronts—French (woven) Fronts, with
Parting—Diamond-shaped and Wing Fronts—Temple-mounted Fronts—Fillets
or Cauls.
Fashion is ever changing, and the fickle goddess does not seem to know
her own mind for very long together. And this remark is as applicable to
hairdressing as it is to dress, or, indeed, anything else with which the
leaders of _ton_ have to do. To coiffeurs nothing perhaps is more
interesting than a perusal of old illustrated books, and to note the
various styles of coiffure. Fifty years ago, when Felix displayed his
talent in hairdressing, the front was distinguished by a cluster of
curls, made with properly cut and tapered hair of about seven or eight
inches in length, and these curls were designated “frizzed,” or “French
curls.” Old hairdressers can remember the “French Fronts,” to which I
shall merely allude. They were made upon wires, with full and round
curls (though done with a thin layer of hair), and the roots as well as
the points were woven in together. There would probably be five, six, or
seven of these curls upon each side; but for an illustration of them I
can only refer the reader to the fashions of bye-gone days. At the
period to which I am referring (and long after), it was no uncommon
thing to find in hairdressers’ shops a large stock of fronts and bands,
and though they may never come into general use again, still, those who
wish to be proficient in board-work, should learn how to make them. To
be well-grounded in the rudiments of any trade is of the greatest
importance, for all must have a beginning, and the more skilful work of
the clever tradesman will surely follow after.
There used to be a good demand for _French (woven) Ringlet Fronts_, and
being so light and pretty, the ingenious way of making them, I think,
ought to be preserved.
[Illustration: Fig. 21.]
The weaving frame, then, resembles that which was before shown, but has
more silks upon it. The peg is specially made for this kind of work, and
there are a number of grooves for the silks, but one with twelve spaces
will perhaps answer every purpose. Wind the silks upon it in the usual
way, and tie up in groups of three according to the customary mode. Let
each knot (which forms a stop to the weft) be in a line, thus—⋮ and have
nine of the silks placed in position as shown in the illustration.[12]
Take first a piece of straight hair of the same colour as the curls, and
about twelve inches long, and draw out what is best described as a
coarse weft. This has to be plaited, as it were, upon all the silks
employed in making the “front.” Hold the root end between the thumb and
finger of the left hand, having the long hair uppermost. Commence by
placing it at the back of the lower silk, and draw it through. Then over
two, under (or behind) three, over two and behind the top one. Continue
in the same fashion downwards, but reversing the movement until the
whole of the hair is worked up. Plait tight; but it can be made close
and firm by pulling the hair as frequently as possible to get it into
shape. (See the ends and centre of the next engraving.) Having thus
worked the hair, finish off at the lower three silks by drawing the ends
towards you, and leave it so for the present. Take three-quarters of an
ounce, or an ounce of twelve-inch ringlet hair, and divide into two
equal parts, bearing in mind that the curls have to be separated and
classed together, and also that curls should always turn to the face, as
I have repeatedly stated. Place the proper portion into the drawing
brushes, and weave five inches of moderately fine close weft upon the
three lower silks. Next make four inches and three-quarters of the same
description of weft upon the three middle silks, leaving a quarter of an
inch space between the end of the plait and the weft; the reason for
doing so will presently appear. Now weave five inches of the same kind
of weft upon the three top silks, and the end of each row must be
regular. Draw off another coarse strand of the straight hair, and plait
all the silks together as before. Three rows of weft are now to be done
exactly the same, leaving the quarter of an inch space at the
corresponding end; then take a third strand of straight hair and make a
finishing plait as at the beginning. The whole length of the “front”
should be eleven inches, including the plaited ends, and centre piece.
The above illustration is so plain that no mistake can possibly arise if
proper attention be given to the subject. Comb out the hair as each row
is completed, and form into curls. Now warm a pair of pinching irons,
press each section of the weft, and carefully remove with the scissors
all superfluous ends and hairs. Cut the centre silk of each group of
three, finish off securely and then cut down. I said just now that the
reason for leaving the space at the ends of the middle row of weft would
shortly appear, and you are now to take hold of those three silks and
pull them. Do so at each end, the result will be to shorten the centre
row; thus enabling you, with the help of springs, to form the mount as
designed.[13] Make two springs, file down the ends, cover with kid or
parchment, and sew them up in narrow galloon. Stitch the sides nicely,
and fix them to each row of weft by means of a needle and silk. The
springs may be about two inches long, and, of course, must be put on
carefully. Strings of galloon are to be affixed, and so far as the
making is concerned, the job is finished.
[Illustration: Fig. 22.]
[Illustration: Fig. 23.]
It is now to be placed upon a block, pressed and dressed as indicated in
the wood-cut (p. 119). The number of curls is immaterial, for the hair
may be arranged in three upon each side, or there might be as many as a
dozen.
In addition to the kind just described, there is another way of
proceeding so as to introduce a patent silk, or skin parting. These
fronts can be made very light, and seeing that there is no net and but
little galloon, ventilation does not suffer impediment. Proceed as
follows:—Set up the weaving frame as shown in Fig. 21, but instead of
nine silks there are now to be twelve. Tie them in threes as before, and
intertwine a piece of straight, twelve-inch hair according to the
following directions:—Hold the root end, pointing downwards, firmly
between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and also the lower silk.
Push the long hair through, pass two silks, and bring the hair to the
front again. Then pass three, push the hair through, and pass three
more, draw it forward, pass two, and over the top one. The hair plait
(for plait it is) is now to be continued downwards, but the movements
are to be reversed. I will describe this in another way. Say that you
are holding the hair in the manner set forth above, together with the
first lowest silk—now—over one, under two, over three, under three, over
two, under one, and over the top, reversing the order of plaiting up and
down till the length of hair is all used. You must “manœuvre” or work it
a little, so as to get it tight, firm, and regular, and fasten off as
previously instructed. Take three-quarters of an ounce, or an ounce, of
ringlet hair of the required length, say ten or twelve inches. Separate
the curls, putting all those which turn one way together, and do the
same with the other lot. Bear in mind that curls should always turn to
the face. Weigh the two portions, so that you may have an equal quantity
of hair to work with. Make four inches and three-quarters of weft on the
lower silks; four-and-a-half inches of weft on the next group; a like
quantity on the group above, and five-and-a-quarter inches of weft upon
the top. There is to be a vacancy of a quarter of an inch (near the
plait) in the second and third rows, and this will explain why they
differ from the lower one. As there is to be a patent parting, a space
of an inch and a-half (but this depends upon the width of the parting)
must be left in the centre to which you have now arrived; the top row
forming an exception, and that is to be woven right along, without any
break whatever.
Commence weaving in the order just described upon the other side,
leaving the quarter-inch spaces at the ends of the second and third rows
as before. Complete the weaving of the top row; see that the weft joins
properly in the middle, because all should be uniform and regular. Make
a corresponding plait to that which you did at the beginning; pinch the
weft with warm irons; fasten off securely, and cut down.
[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
It has now to be mounted. Take a clean wig-block—there are two kinds,
let me observe, “mounting” blocks and “combing” blocks—but it is to the
former that I am alluding. Partings vary in depth, but the front here
pourtrayed is four inches deep, and I will assume that you are going to
make a similar one. Have some ribbon the full width of the parting
(after the edges of the latter are tacked), and cut off five inches.
Turn up the lower edge of the ribbon and lay the smooth surface upon the
block, exactly in the centre, and just where the front should be worn
when upon the head. Drive two points into the block, at short but equal
distances from each other; take a needle and cotton, single, tie a knot,
and “fasten on” to a point: pass the needle through one corner of the
ribbon, and secure the cotton to the point below. Proceed in the same
way with the other corner. Turn the block round, bend up the end of the
ribbon as before, and secure the corners by means of basting stitches in
a like manner. Remember, that in weaving I directed quarter-inch spaces
to be left at both ends of the two inner rows of weft. Now draw the
silks out a quarter of an inch so as to bring the weft close to the
plait, for by this movement you will be enabled to spread out the top
and bottom rows to the ends of the springs, while the centre rows are
tightened and nearly straight, as they should be. Next sew the strings
on to the plaited ends; make two springs, each a full quarter of an inch
deeper than the parting; cover as previously instructed, and fix in
their appointed places. (Fig. 24 clearly pourtrays all that is here
described.) The two middle rows of weft need not be sewn to them yet.
Now place all upon the block, get the mounted ribbon exactly in the
middle, take hold of the strings, pull tight and drive a point through
them at the back, in the place where they should be tied by the wearer.
Arrange so as to keep the top row of hair out of the way; let the lower
silks be a quarter of an inch above the place where the parting touches
the forehead, and fix all in their respective positions by means of a
needle and silk. Secure the two middle rows of weft to the springs in
the same way. Now to affix the parting. Turn in the edges of the silk or
skin upon which the parting is worked, and “tack” them in such a manner
that the lowest portion (being the most important) is turned up last.
The parting is now to be sewn neatly to the ribbon, commencing at the
bottom; both should exactly fit, and, what is most important, only the
parting is to be seen where it touches the brow.
[Illustration: Fig. 25.]
The pressing iron can now be used, the curls—be they many or
few—arranged, a pair of side-combs placed in position if desired, and
the front is finished, as above shown.
There are other fronts with ringlet curls beside those just described.
For instance, there is a mounted front of a diamond shape, which is made
to slide, technically called a “_diamond_” front. It is made as follows:
cut off two pieces of galloon about eight or nine inches in length each.
Sew the ends (through and through, not over and over) neat and firm;
these are for the two sides. Place one of them upon a block, in the
position it is intended to be worn. The ends of the galloon (where it
has been sewn) must be uppermost at any place except a corner. Open the
ends and hammer slightly, so as to make them lie as flat as possible.
Take four points, and spread out the galloon in a diamond shape, so that
it will be about two inches deep, and perhaps four inches long. Now take
your needle and cotton, points, &c., and baste out in the required form;
the upper and lower bastings (where the springs go) to be somewhat
pointed; the ends are to be square, equal to the width of the galloon
forming the strings. Make another mounting on the corresponding side of
the block, and both must be alike in every particular. Upon the block
(between the right and left sides of the mountings) a space of two
inches or more should be left, because the wearer’s own hair must be
seen when the curls are worn. Bear in mind this is to be a sliding
front, and the lady will be able to adjust the curls to her own wishes
or taste. Now, the two sides being in their proper positions, and firmly
secured by means of the basting stitches, sew a piece of galloon _on one
side only_ from one end to the other; the reason for doing so will
presently be given. Cut off sufficient galloon for the strings, and this
must be long enough to encircle the head, leaving plenty to tie in a
double bow as well. Find the centre of the galloon, and temporarily
fasten it with a point between the mounts. One of these strings is to be
continued along the mount, corresponding with that upon which a piece of
galloon has been sewn, the remainder being fastened by means of a point
in the neck. The other half is to be abruptly turned back over the
crown, and temporarily secured to keep it out of the way. Measure off
two springs, grind the ends, cover with narrow galloon as previously
instructed, and fix in their respective places. Put on the net; sew it
to the inner edges of the mount only, and to both sides of the centre
galloons and springs. The mountings are now ready for the hair.
Take sufficient hair, say one ounce of twelve-inch ringlet, and divide
it equally. Weave a top row first, and ordinary front weft with the
remainder. Do the same with the second lot of hair. Remember what I have
said before—“All curls should turn to the face.” Sew on the weft,
beginning at the bottom of the lower galloon, turn the corners neatly;
let the weft appear in regular rows, and, lastly, sew on the top row.
Comb out the hair and curl it over the fingers in proper form before
doing the other side, which, when done, is to be treated in a similar
manner. Warm your pressing iron, divide the weft in conveniently small
portions, and press carefully. Take the mountings off the block, and now
I will give my reason for sewing on the first piece of galloon, namely,
because this is the mounting intended to slide. Cut off another piece of
galloon an inch longer than appears to be necessary. Turn in about half
an inch at one end, and sew the corners securely to one of the ends of
the mount. Neatly stitch the edge of this piece of galloon to the edge
of that which is attached to the mount, but before fastening off, turn
in the free end as you did at the beginning. Sew along the other edge of
the galloon as before, and secure the stitches. Now there is a hollow
space for the string to travel through, and a bodkin is the necessary
instrument for leading it in the first instance. Replace the front upon
the block, dress and arrange the curls as required.
_Wing Fronts_ are made in a similar way, but instead of being of a
diamond form they are shaped like birds’ wings; the narrow end, of
course, towards the upper part of the head, and the broad part near the
ears. Mounts of this shape are very pretty, the curls lie nicely
together, and, furthermore, they are easy to wear.
_Bandeaux_, or as they are more generally termed, “bands,” embrace a
variety of designs to suit different requirements. Some are made plain
with a patent parting of silk or skin; others have net, gauze, or human
hair foundations, and latterly a material called “Yak-hair” has been
used, which answers the same purpose, and is less expensive. Then,
again, there are _bandeaux_ with waved hair or waved hair and “fringes,”
while others have long hair attached for combing in with the natural
hair at the back. Indeed, this branch of the business offers a wide
field for the display of taste, judgment, and ability. The hair used to
be “banded” and then secured at or near the end of the mount, and
dressing “bands” and “fronts” in the days of my apprenticeship was a
continual source of employment and profit. The hair, at the time I speak
of, was generally worn smooth, oils and pomades were in request, and
rough hairdressing, it was thought, showed want of skill on the part of
the hairdresser. But styles are ever-changing, and what is approved
to-day will, perhaps, be condemned to-morrow. From smooth hairdressing
we come to that which is dry, wavy, frizzy and crisp, and I am disposed
to think that ladies sometimes imagine a coiffure should present a rough
appearance to obtain approval. This loose method of arranging the hair
is to the advantage of _bandeaux_, and coverings for bald places,
because the false piece can be more easily arranged by the wearer.
[Illustration: Fig. 26.]
_To make a plain bandeau_, take a yard and a-half of galloon, measure
ten inches from one of the ends but do not cut it off. Turn it back and
give it two or three raps with the hammer so as to make a mark. Keep the
galloon even and smooth, and turn back another ten inches at the other
end; both of which are to be brought together. The ends are to be turned
in, and stitched over and over. Double these sewn pieces exactly in the
centre, and tap with the hammer again. Open out, and you will find that
a mount of between nine and ten inches is begun. Now take a mounting
block, which should be clean and smooth, and place the galloon thereon.
The centre of the mount has already been found, and after opening it
(say) two inches, temporarily fix by means of points in the centre of
the block. There is no difficulty about this because a fine line marks
the place, and I need scarcely say the mount should be on the block
exactly as it is intended to be worn on the head. With the block in your
lap (the face being turned inwards) take the galloon in each hand, pull
tight, double one piece over the other, and drive a point through both
at the back of the neck. Hammer it down firmly, and then fix the
remainder of the galloon, which I need hardly say is intended for the
strings, as you think proper, so long as they are out of your way. I
will now suppose that you are going to make a three-inch silk or skin
patent parting band, therefore you must commence with basting the lower
galloon first, and then the top one, drawing it back at the same time,
so as to give the necessary depth. Indeed, if you make it a rule to give
a quarter of an inch more depth than the parting, it will be, I think,
all the better. Next draw back the lower centre, and form a pretty
curve, the object being to keep the galloon out of the way lest it be
seen in the most critical part of your work, and, further, that the
parting should lie upon the forehead both flat and close. Having done
basting, the next thing is to put on the springs. Break two pieces of
watch spring the proper length; the ends of which are to be rounded off
and covered with kid or parchment, afterwards neatly enclosing the
springs in galloon. They should have just sufficient bend to easily fit
the head, and assist in holding the parting in position. A reference to
the engraving will illustrate all that I have endeavoured to
explain.[14]
Having well secured the mount which, let me say, should always be tight
and firm upon the block, take a piece of ribbon, exactly the width of
the centre between the springs, and sew thereon, the object of this
being to give a neat appearance to the band when off the block, and,
also, to conceal the work in the parting which otherwise could be seen.
The net should next be attached, as directed in previous instructions,
and then the mount will be completed.
[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
In addition to the parting, take an ounce of the best hair (say) sixteen
inches long (the hair in the parting being of the same length), and
weave a top row. Weave the remainder of the hair in rather fine front
weft, and then divide, marking the division, however, by merely tying a
piece of string in the place. The parting should next be dealt with;
turn in the edges as previously directed, “tacking” as you proceed, and
finishing with the lower portion. Sew the parting in its proper
position, beginning with the two corners in front; it will then be as
well to sew it at the top, and afterwards the sides. The parting should
be straight, and exactly in the centre; perfectly smooth, and not
stretched or puckered in any direction. The weft must be sewn on next,
but should there be a rather wide space between the parting and the top
edge of the galloon, put in two or three rows of weft first. Sew the
weft along the bottom and top edge of the galloon and then at regular
intervals until one side is completed. Do the same with the other side,
and, finally, put on the top row.
The number of rows will, of course, depend upon the quantity of weft, of
which you must be the judge, and calculate accordingly. Press, tie the
hair of each side together or loosely plait in three, leaving the wearer
to arrange it when upon the head.
What I have already said is sufficient to show the learner how to make a
“band” with a parting of either silk or skin, or any other similar
substance. Indeed, when a “band” has to be produced for a very low
price, it can be made without a patent parting at all, as the parting
can be made to consist of weft only. To do this, the springs need not be
so wide apart, and the intervening space is to be filled up with weft,
sewn close, one row after the other, beginning at the bottom. If the
weft is well done and fine, it will lie flat, then, with the comb, a
parting should be made, and pressed into shape. True, the wearer cannot
show the parting, but such work is designed for elderly ladies, and the
cap border, or other head-gear hides it completely. Partings are
generally used, however, and I merely allude to this very plain way of
making a “band” to suit humble and, necessarily, economical customers.
For making a _Waved Bandeau, with fringe_, turn to the instructions for
mounting already given, and notice the mount upon the block. A mount of
a similar description is to be made, but _without_ the arched piece of
galloon in the centre, for the parting being of a transparent material,
the skin of the head should be seen through it. Besides, a dark line of
galloon just in the most conspicuous spot would be sadly out of order.
Proceed as follows: Take a clean block, and mark with a pencil the exact
dimensions of the mount, in its proper place. Be very particular about
this, because the pencilled lines you should strictly adhere to. These
lines, then, having been made, commence by driving a point through the
end of the galloon near the crown, and on your right side as the tracing
faces you. Continue the galloon down to the angle upon the forehead
where the spring goes, and fix with a point. Keep the galloon flat, and
turn it towards the ear where it is also to be secured. Pass the galloon
along the top, and when in the centre of the block (being mindful of the
depth of the parting) drive in another point. For the other side
continue the galloon as before, and end on the top of the block in a
corresponding position to that where it begins. The mount should then
resemble the illustration to which your attention is directed (Fig. 26),
but with this difference—the centre arched portion of the galloon is
absent.
The galloon is now to be “basted,” and preceding instructions observed.
The mount being tight and firm, the strings are to be neatly sewn on,
fixed in the neck, and the long ends put out of the way as before. It is
now seen that there is a gap in the centre, and unless some kind of stay
is put at the lower part, the parting will, in all probability, soon get
torn. To obviate this, it is usual to employ a material called
“silk-worm gut,” which is securely fastened across the bottom, or nearly
at the bottom, for the parting should be so arranged as to lie flat on
the forehead—the closer it lies the better. Sometimes a white horse hair
is used for the purpose, and occasionally white silk, but whatever the
material, it should be strong and durable. It is usual, also, to put
additional “stays” about an inch apart, right along the parting, for
they are not seen upon the head, and much greater strength is given to
the article. Indeed, when the parting is more than three inches deep it
is absolutely necessary to do so.
Put on the springs as before, let them be narrow, and in this instance
they may be covered with black tape, as the galloon upon which they will
be sewn conceals them from view when off the block. Now attach the net,
and the mounting is completed.
A mount, let me observe, should be accurately designed, and measurements
taken from any convenient place upon the block must correspond, one side
with the other. Indeed, where much board-work is done, it is a strong
recommendation to be a good “mounter,” and a correct eye is not among
the least of such a man’s qualifications. It matters not how well done
the knotting, weaving, or sewing may be; should the mount be inexact,
the work is faulty from the very commencement, and might result in the
article being returned. This is best avoided. Therefore, make it a rule
to “start fair” with your work, and, if slow, be sure, remembering at
all times that “practice makes perfect,” and how important it is that
strict attention should be paid to minute details.
The mount having been finished, the next thing is to put in a
transparent parting, with a “fringe.” This “fringe” should be of short,
curled hair, which can be arranged when the job is finished. In
transparent partings generally there are no edges to turn up, like those
made of silk or skin, and alluded to before. Commence by sewing the
parting to the corner of the mount on your right hand first, finish off,
and then attach it to the corresponding corner on the left side, keeping
the line of parting exactly in the middle. It will then be proper to sew
the top; see that it is firm, straight, and smooth, and conclude by
stitching the sides. About the same length and quantity of hair will be
required for this as was used in the previous one; therefore, weave a
top row, divide the weft, and proceed according to the instructions
already given. Sew the weft on in rows, beginning at the bottom; neatly
and securely turn the corners; and, lastly, affix the top row. Press,
and dress as required; take it off the block, draw out the basting
stitches, and the work is done, unless you wish to give a waviness to
the hair.
[Illustration: Fig. 28.]
Of course the hair can be left straight if desired, but if waved (it
need not be very strong), the effect is much more natural. Put the band
on the block again, and the hair can be waved in either of the following
ways:—(1) _By plaiting._ Slightly damp the hair, and make two or more
three-plaits upon each side. Plait rather tight, and pinch with
moderately warm irons, but only sufficient to remove the moisture, if
any, and to fix the wave. This, perhaps, is the most simple and natural
way of doing it. (2) _With hair-pins._ Divide the side-hair in two or
three equal portions, so as to make the wave regular and uniform. Take a
long hair-pin, and with the left hand hold it close to the roots of one
of the pieces, keeping the prongs rather wide apart. Then, with the
right hand, entwine the piece of hair in and out, as though forming with
it any number of figures 8. Having come to the ends (or done as much as
you consider necessary), push up close to the head of the pin, turning
back one of the points to keep the hair well in place. Do the same with
all; pinch with warm irons, and allow it to be quite cold before drawing
out the pins. (3) Curling-irons are used also for waving the hair, but,
although permissible when dressing a lady’s hair, I do not advise their
use for work of this description. There are other methods of waving
hair, as with string, card, wire, etc., but what I have described, if
carefully done, will answer nearly all requirements.
[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
_Temple-Mounted Fronts._—Measure off twenty-three inches of galloon,
double it, and stitch at the ends through and through. Shift the ends a
little, so that they will come anywhere but where basting stitches are
likely to be put. Now double the galloon again, tap it with the hammer,
open it, and you will find that you have made two creases. Put these
creases upon the line which marks the centre of the block, and fix them
with points to about the depth of the parting. Take other points and
bring the mount into shape. You will now require a rule, or tape
measure, a pair of compasses, and a large double-threaded needle, to
enable you to make correct measurements. You can measure from any
convenient spot, but when the strings are on, they should be so adjusted
that, when off the block and tightened, the mount will incline inwards
both at top and bottom, thus proving that it will bind, or fit well to
the head. The shape is well defined in the illustration,[15] and the
places where basting stitches are to be put distinctly shown. Springs
are made and fixed on the top about the width of the parting, the
intervening space being filled up with a piece of ribbon. A spring is
also placed on each side near the ear, so as to keep the mount well in
shape, and the strings, as will be seen, are made to cross over from the
bottom galloon to the top. The trained eye will perceive at a glance how
comfortable this shaped mount is likely to be to the wearer.
Having sewn on the net, commencing, as usual, upon the inner edge of the
lower galloon, the next thing is to put in the parting, which should be
either skin or silk—but if transparent a deviation will have to be made
as already explained. The same remark applies as to whether the hair
should be knotted or woven. These matters must always be decided upon at
first, when the mount is commenced. Take (say) 1¼ oz. of twelve-inch
ringlet hair, and put the curls in two lots as usual. Weigh one parcel
against the other, and balance evenly. Remember what I have said about
the curls inclining to the face. Make a thin top row, comb out, and cut
down. Weave the hair in fine front weft, and contrive to make it of a
similar length for both sides. Commence sewing on at or near the string,
and proceed as before instructed. In stitching on the weft be careful to
well secure the net, and the spaces must be according to the length of
the weft used—certainly they should not be so much as a quarter of an
inch apart. Let both sides be uniform and alike in every respect. Press
and dress as required, and retain the hair in position by means of
side-combs. If, at the outset, it is decided to “knot” the hair, then
the mount should be prepared accordingly, respecting which I have given
instructions in another place.[16]
_Fillets (or Cauls)._—A fillet signifies a little band intended to tie
about the hair; and a caul (probably a modification of _cowl_)
intimates, in trade parlance, a net or some such covering for the head.
But that which I am going to describe is probably unknown to many,
although it was formerly adopted by elderly women instead of a wig. This
can be accounted for in two or three ways. (1) Because at the time I
speak of “fronts” were generally worn; (2) ladies’ wigs were heavy and
expensive, and (3) a fillet or caul, being much cheaper, well answered
the purpose. Indeed, where the necessity exists for wearing a head
covering, through loss of hair, or other causes, perhaps a fillet would
be most acceptable to many in want of some such assistance. Proceed as
follows: Measure the head, and use a mounting-block about one inch
larger in size. Put on any shaped mount you please so long as it is
adapted to the purpose, and suits the requirement of the lady for whom
it is intended. In place of strings use a piece of wide galloon which is
neatly attached to the mount, and fits comfortably round the head. The
galloon may be half an inch or more in width, or a mount can be made in
the neck (extending from ear to ear) resembling that portion of a lady’s
wig. Having the mount, springs, and wide galloon in position, you have
next to obtain a silk net, and put it on to the block, covering the
entire mount and neck-piece as well.[17] The meshes of the net should
not be too open, because the weft has to be sewn upon a part of it. I
need hardly observe that no portion of the net must be allowed to
project over the lower edges of the galloon and mount. The hair is now
to be divided as before; a top-row woven, and good front, or “twice-in”
weft made. Bear in mind that instead of sewing it along the lower
galloon, and turning at the parting and strings, it is now to be sewn
from bottom to top; in other words—begin sewing on the weft where the
wide galloon joins; let the hair incline or fall over the ear, and, as I
said just now, sew the weft from bottom to top, turning each row upon
the lower and upper galloon. The reason is, that as the meshes are much
more open than in the ordinary description of net, the rows of weft
ought to be shortened so as to give additional strength. Having finished
the front part, attention must now be directed to the back, or rather
that portion which fits in the neck and extends from ear to ear. Have
ready (say) half an ounce of “Sevigny,” or “doll” hair. This is tight
curled hair of about four or five inches in length—the same in fact as
that used in making “fringes.” Weave very fine, and sew on to the wide
galloon, turning at each end of it. The long and short hair will thus
meet near the front of the ear, where the joining must be neat.
If the hair is to be worn either plain or wavy and banded, of course
hair (say) of sixteen inches in length should be used, but if in curls,
probably ten or twelve-inch hair will be sufficient. Dress as required.
The short-curled hair (after the work is pressed) can be arranged in
small ring curls, or in the manner of a close fringe.
Remember, I said that a block somewhat larger than the head was to be
used, and the reason is plain. The fillet is sure to be large enough,
and this will allow for shrinking; besides, there is to be an elastic
spring put in the neck which must be done so as to grip or bind the head
properly. If these details are carefully attended to, the fillet will
fit “like a glove,” be a source of comfort to the wearer, and a credit
to the maker. How an elastic spring is to be placed and held in position
will appear in due course.