Dyeing the Hair—Of Hair-dyes generally—Powder Dyes—Liquid Dyes—Iron
Dyes—Lead Dyes—Various opinions concerning the use of Lead
Dyes—Silver Dyes—Dyeing False and Faded Hair—Bleaching and Blanching
Hair.
Dyeing the hair _upon_, as well as _off_, the head, is a very important
subject, and should be dealt with in as complete a manner as possible. A
selected number of recipes will prove, doubtless, interesting as well as
useful.
In the days of my apprenticeship—(it is not necessary to say how many
years ago)—there were packets of “Pompeian Hair Dye” in the shop window
of my master, which bore the name of the famous chemist ORFILA, and the
recipe for making this dye was found, at least so the label stated,
“among the ruins of Herculaneum.” “What a wonderful discovery,” I used
to think; and “how I should like to know the secret of its manufacture.”
It was a powder dye, and had to be mixed with water, to the consistency
of paste, before application, the hair being thoroughly washed and dried
first. It was generally applied at night time, and the head had to be
well covered with oiled-silk, a bladder, or some other non-porous
substance, for hours, to confine the “mixture” to the hair. When the
“bandages” were removed in the morning the head appeared as though it
had been dipped in a flour-barrel; and, oh! what a task it was to get it
clean. These powder-dyes are seldom used now; but, nevertheless, it is
as well to give two or three recipes for making them. (1) Orfila’s hair
dye: Take three parts of litharge (oxide of lead) and two of quicklime,
both in an impalpable powder, and mix them carefully. When used, a
portion of the powder is mixed with hot water or milk, and applied to
the hair, the part being afterwards enveloped in oil-skin or a
cabbage-leaf for four or five hours. (2) Litharge two parts, slaked lime
one part, chalk two parts, all finely powdered and accurately mixed.
When required for use mix the powder with warm water, dip a brush into
the mixture, and rub the hair well with it. After two hours let the hair
be washed. (3) Litharge 4½ ozs., quicklime ¾ oz.; reduce to an
impalpable powder, and pass it through a sieve. Keep it in a dry, close
bottle. Wash the hair first with soap and water, then with tepid water;
wipe it dry, and comb with a clean comb. Mix the dye in a saucer with
hot water to the consistence of cream, and apply to the hair, beginning
at the roots. Place over it four folds of brown paper, saturated with
hot water, and drained till cool, and over this an oil-skin cap and a
nightcap. Let it remain from four to eight hours, according to the shade
required. When removed, oil the hair, but do not wet it for three or
four days. There always was an objection to these powder-dyes through
the time consumed in the operation, but the following act more quickly.
(4) Take of lime (slaked by exposure to damp air) two parts; carbonate
of lead (pure white lead) one part. Mix thoroughly, pass the mixture
through a gauze sieve, and at once bottle it and keep the air from
getting to it. Used as the preceding, but acts in one-third or
one-fourth the time. The shade depends chiefly on the length of its
application. (5) Chevallier: Take of fresh slaked lime 5 drachms; water,
1½ oz. Mix, strain through gauze, and pour the milky solution into a
4–oz. bottle. Next take of sugar of lead 5 drachms, water 3 ozs.;
dissolve. Add to this solution dry slaked lime 1 drachm, and agitate
them well together for a few minutes. Wash the resulting precipitate
with a little distilled or soft water, drain, and add it to the “milk of
lime” in the 4–oz. bottle. Lastly, shake the whole well together, and
again before use, if it be not at once applied. It must be kept well
corked, as the last, but acts more quickly.
I can imagine the reader expressing surprise after reading the
foregoing; and to young men in the trade it would appear marvellous that
people should submit to such an ordeal. That writers should condemn the
use of “lead dyes” (if the last recipe given be the kind alluded to), I
can very well understand; but liquid (lead) preparations I do not
consider open to such disapprobation. One reason can be given why lead
solutions are preferable, that is, they do not darken the skin; and,
indeed, with liquid dyes in the hands of a careful manipulator, there is
little occasion to touch the skin; but when such an accident occurs, it
ought to be wiped off directly.
Liquid dyes are easily applied, more certain in their effect, and,
undoubtedly, less unpleasant to those who have occasion to use them.
Liquid dyes may be divided into two classes, namely, those which
gradually darken the hair, and those which produce an instantaneous
change. Before proceeding farther, it is advisable to note the chemical
constituents of hair, because a successful result depends, to a certain
extent, at least, upon this being taken into consideration and acted
upon accordingly. It is known to scientific men that the chemical
constituents of hair, according to the analysis of Vauquelin, are—animal
matter in considerable proportion; a greenish black oil; a white
concrete oil, in small quantity; phosphate of lime; carbonate of lime, a
trace; oxide of manganese; iron, sulphur, and silex. Red hair contains a
reddish oil, a large proportion of sulphur, and a small quantity of
iron. White hair exhibits a white oil, with phosphate of magnesia. The
white hair of old persons contains a maximum proportion of phosphate of
lime. In preparing a dye for the hair, where the required element is
absent it has to be supplied by art. For illustration, in red hair
sulphur largely predominates, and as a consequence the hair readily
darkens; in white hair—the white hair of aged persons—it is not to be
found; hence the necessity of supplying a mordant to produce the desired
effect.
To gradually darken the hair, then (assuming that sulphur is still
developed in the course of its formation), a wash composed of a weak
solution of the salts of iron, such as the sulphate, acetate, lactate,
or protoiodide will be sufficient. A very small quantity of glycerine
can be added at pleasure, but to the latter it is necessary. Here are
two or three recipes:—(6) Sulphate of iron (green; crushed), 1 drachm;
rectified spirit, 1 fluid oz.; oil of rosemary, 10 or 12 drops; pure
soft water, ½ pint; agitate them together until solution and mixture are
complete. Many persons substitute the strongest _old ale_ for the
“water” in the above. Another formula is, (7) take of rust of iron, 1
drachm; old ale (strongest), 1 pint; oil of rosemary, 12 or fifteen
drops; put them into a bottle, very loosely corked, agitate daily for
ten or twelve days, and then, after repose, decant the clear portion for
use. The following is said to be a favourite among fashionable
Parisians. (8) “Parisian.” Take of sulphate of iron (green), 15 to 20
grains; distilled verdigris, 5 or 6 grains; white wine (good), ¼ pint;
eau de Cologne (to scent), q.s.; mix. It should be mentioned that all
these washes will “iron-mould” linen if they are brought in contact.
Should the foregoing not answer satisfactorily, the cause will probably
arise through the absence of the normal sulphur of the hair, and in that
case, water containing a little sulphuret of potassium, or
hydrosulphuret of ammonia should be used once or twice a week.
Much has been said concerning lead dyes, and the injurious effects
produced upon individuals who have used them for any length of time. Dr.
Benjamin Godfrey, a gentleman with whom I had the honour of being
acquainted, devoted considerable attention to this question, and in his
treatise on “Diseases of Hair,” published in 1872, says: “The common
hair cosmetics of the present day contain lead. The following is a rough
analysis of the more noted:—
“Mrs. S. A. Allen’s World’s Hair Restorer, acetate of lead, sulphur and
glycerine.
“Rossetter’s Hair Restorer, ditto.
“Simeon’s American Hair Restorer, ditto.
“Hall’s Vegetable Sicilian Hair Renewer, ditto.
“Aqua Amarella, ditto.
“Helmsley’s Celebrated Hair Restorer, ditto.
“Melmoth’s Oxford Hair Restorer, ditto.
“Alex. Ross’s Great Hair Restorer, oxide of lead, carbonate of lead, and
potash.
“The quantity of lead in any of these could not possibly do harm. The
strongest contained but ninety grains to the half-pint of water, the
weakest but three grains to a like bulk. Water was the chief ingredient
of them all. Sulphur, sometimes in the form of milk of sulphur, was
used; in another, the common flower of sulphur; sometimes acetate of
lead, at other times oxide of that metal. In all the chemical change is
the same, namely, the solution of the metal entering into the filament
by absorption, there unites with sulphur, forming a sulphuret of the
material used. Hair is porous; sulphur exists in hair of all colours,
but is in excess in red and blonde hair. This is why these hues become
blackened by the chemicals used more perfectly than any other shades.
“Now, the question has been asked oftentimes, whether the use of lead
solutions as hair-dyes be prejudicial to health or no?
“As this is a question of much importance, we will look carefully into
the matter.
“The absorbent power of the skin is not great without we remove its
outer covering. If we desire to get remedies absorbed into the system,
we first blister the surface, remove the outer covering, then sprinkle
our drugs upon the derma, and the material then goes into the body. In
the endermic method of giving medicines, we must perforate the skin to
produce any effect. The cuticle is the protecting agent—one of Dame
Nature’s waterproof coverings to keep out external poisons.”
And again—“Now, the skin of the head is additionally protected by an
oily solution—the sebaceous secretion—which forbids entirely the
absorption of any watery hair-dye. So, protected with nature’s
waterproof cape and oiled epidermis, it is impossible for an aqueous
solution to enter the body and destroy life. I have carefully analysed
the cases recorded in which lead cosmetics are said to have caused
death. Almost all the cases occurred in France, and lead, in an
ointment, had been used. Now, an unguent could easily be absorbed by an
oily skin; therefore these accidents are at least probable. The watery
solutions of lead for the last ten years have been used largely by
thousands and tens of thousands of beings in our land, yet not one
single case has been recorded of poisoning from their use.... I have
seen patients who have used lead dyes for twenty years, but not a single
sign of lead poisoning has been revealed.... In the strongest hair-dye
that I have examined there has been but one quarter of an ounce in a
half-pint bottle of water, which would last the patient at least a
month. Putting all these things together, one can state _that the
hair-dyes, as used in England at the present day, cannot prove injurious
to the users_.”
Another writer, Dr. Southwood Smith, in his “Philosophy of Health,”
stated that, “Over the external surface of the body, or the skin, there
is spread a thin layer of solid, inorganic, insensible matter, like a
varnish of india-rubber. The obvious effect of such a barrier placed
between the external surface of the body and external objects is to
moderate the entrance of substances from without. Hence the impunity
with which the most deadly poisons may remain in contact with the skin,
with which prussic acid, arsenic, corrosive sublimate, may be touched
and handled.”
And Sir Erasmus Wilson, F.R.S., writes: “The epidermis acts as an
impediment to absorption, and as such is an important safeguard against
the admission of injurious and poisonous substances into the blood. Thus
we find that it is only after long soaking, or by continued friction,
that we are enabled to overcome this natural defence, and then only to a
very partial extent.”
Of lead dyes the following recipes may be found acceptable—(9) Brown
hair dye: Acetate of lead, 2 drachms; hyposulphite of soda, 1 drachm;
rose-water, 14 ozs.; glycerine, 2 ozs.; dissolve the acetate of lead and
hyposulphite in separate portions of the rose-water; filter separately,
mix the solutions, and add the glycerine. The two following are from Dr.
C. H. Leonard’s work on “The Hair”: (10) Sugar of lead, 40 grains;
distilled water, 2 ozs.; apply this to the hair thoroughly, and when
about dry apply a solution of the sulphide of ammonium, about one-fourth
the strength of the British Pharmacopœia solution. The objection to this
is its unpleasant odour. It gives, though, an excellent brown or black
colour to the hair, according to the strength of the solutions employed,
and does not stain the scalp. (11) Brown hair-dye: Acetate of lead, ½
drachm; flowers of sulphur, 1 drachm; water, 4 ozs.; shake well and
apply night and morning for a week or so, then decrease the frequency of
the application, gradually, to once a week, or once in two weeks. This
is a slow dye, yet one that answers fairly when there is not much
greyness in the hair. It also is a very mild preparation. The deposit
left upon the skin can be easily brushed off when it becomes dry. Like
all of the lead dyes, it acts best upon hair of a reddish tinge, though
grey hair is turned to a brownish colour by it. Its effect upon light
hair is to give more of a dark brown tint to it.
I now offer some remarks on silver dyes, for probably they are more in
use than any of the other kinds. One reason is, they are quicker in
their action, and, with careful manipulation, more decided in effect.
Before application, however (indeed, before any dye can be effective),
it is important to thoroughly wash the hair with soda or soap and water,
which must be well rinsed out with plenty of tepid or cold water, and
the hair dried. It is then ready for the dye. It should be borne in mind
that silver dyes will stain linen, the skin, and finger nails, and
almost any thing the dye is brought in contact with. Under these
circumstances, then, carefulness must be observed. Sunlight, and the
open air will produce a permanent change in a few minutes; with diffused
daylight it takes much longer, perhaps two or three hours. But science
has stepped in, and, with the employment of a good mordant, the desired
alteration of colour is effected almost instantaneously. Should the
skin, however, be wetted with any of the dye, wipe it off directly, for
if left untouched, a dark mark will be the result. A cloth damped with a
solution of hydrosulphuret of ammonia, or sulphuret of potassium, and
rubbed on the spots, will remove recent marks. So will a solution of
iodide or cyanide of potassium, but these, on account of their poisonous
qualities, are best avoided. Proper caution in using the dye, a pair of
old gloves to cover the hands, and some little practical experience will
prevent any unpleasant results. (12) One solution, crystallised nitrate
of silver, 1 drachm; gum arabic, 1 drachm; distilled water, 2 ozs.; mix.
(13) Another: one solution, nitrate of silver, 192 grains; distilled
water, 8 ozs. Dissolve and add gradually sufficient of the strongest
solution of ammonia to precipitate the silver. Then, afterwards, just as
much as is necessary to redissolve the precipitate.
The following dyes require two solutions, and produce a rapid change:
(14) No. 1. Hydrosulphate of ammonia, 1 oz.; solution of potash, 3
drachms; distilled water, 1 oz.; mix. Apply this with a tooth-brush, and
in about a quarter of an hour use.—No. 2. Nitrate of silver, 1 drachm;
distilled water, 2 ozs. In all cases when two liquids are employed, the
vessels into which they are poured, the brushes used for applying them,
combs, etc., must be kept separate, otherwise the action of the dye upon
the hair will be destroyed. Generally, the mordant is used first and the
dye afterwards, but this order is reversed in the following
“Instantaneous Hair Dye,” the recipe for making which is taken from the
work by Mr. A. J. Cooley. (15) The white liquid, or “dye,” is a solution
of _nitrate of silver_ (1 to 8, 12 to 16). This is applied first. It is
followed by the “mordant” (diluted). The latter is usually a mixture of
_hydrosulphuret of ammonia_ and _distilled water_, in nearly equal
proportions. The colour of the hair, unaltered by the silver solution,
instantly turns “brown” or “black,” according to the strength of the
dye, when moistened with the hydrosulphuret. Then there are “vegetable
dyes,” “vegeto-mineral dyes,” “animal dyes,” “pommade dyes,” and washes
for producing red, auburn, golden, golden brown, and other shades of
colour in the hair, but to go fully into this subject at the present
moment, would be a little beside the object I have in view.
I might dismiss the subject of dyeing “false hair,” as it is called,
with a few brief remarks, seeing that hairdressers rarely think it worth
their while to perform the experiment; but, as it sometimes happens, new
hair has to be added to that which is old and faded, to meet the
requirements of economical customers, then “how to restore it” becomes a
question. Of course, if the hair be impoverished, and assumes a “foxy”
hue, it cannot be restored; but—what answers the purpose just as well—it
can be dyed. There is only one other reason to be adduced, so far as I
can tell, for dyeing “false hair,” and that is, when a tradesman has a
quantity of red hair by him which is unsaleable, and, consequently,
thinks proper to make it a more common colour. Whether red-haired people
have generally “good crops,” or whether they darken their hair by the
use of suitable preparations, I will not pretend to say; but certainly
red hair is not very often in request. White, grey, auburn, flaxen, and
several choice pale colours are too valuable to be interfered with, and
ordinary colours are sufficiently plentiful without resorting to the use
of dye.
To dye “false hair,” then, one of the lead and sulphur dyes mentioned in
the preceding pages will answer every purpose, and its action may, in
some instances, be promoted by boiling. Or any of the methods used in
dyeing wool may be employed with good effect, for, in this connection,
there is not much dissimilarity in hair and wool, and what will dye one
will dye the other. In dyeing blacks, and dark colours, logwood forms
one of the principal ingredients, and in conjunction with gallnuts it
imparts a lustrous appearance. It should be used either hot or boiling,
according to the depth of colour required. The accompanying formula is
very effective. (16) Logwood, ¼ lb.; copperas (sulphate of iron), 1 oz.;
nut galls, 1 oz.; and about 2 quarts of water. Boil for an hour, or
longer according to the shade required. It is necessary to observe that
the hair should be taken out of the dye-bath several times, and freely
exposed to the air. This is called “airing,” and is done to allow the
oxygen of the atmosphere to act upon the ingredients of the dye, and
especially on the iron; as without this action of the air a good colour
cannot be produced.
To possess a head of hair of the “golden” _blonde_, flaxen, or auburn
hue, has been the desire of many ladies from time immemorial, and
various expedients have been resorted to to produce the desired effect.
At the present moment I do not intend to dilate upon this subject, but
of all substances used for the purpose of bleaching or blanching hair,
whether it be upon or off the head, nothing surpasses peroxide of
hydrogen, respecting which Mr. Alfred H. Mason says:—“The best known
application for peroxide of hydrogen is probably in its employment as an
auricome for bleaching dark coloured hair, producing the yellow tint:
for this purpose a 10-volume solution is used, the hair is saturated
with it, and then exposed for two or three days, when the oxygen is
liberated and the hair partly decolourised; if wanted in a shorter time,
after immersion the hair is dried in a water-bath for a few hours, but
the ultimate result is not so satisfactory. A London hairdresser
produces white hair, and it is conjectured that he employs a 20–volume
solution, with the addition of strong solution of ammonia, and so
completely decolourises and bleaches the hair, at the same time
rendering it practically destroyed excepting so long as it holds
together.”
I think enough has been said upon dyeing, to enable the intelligent
reader to overcome many of the difficulties that are sure to arise in
the course of his business pursuits. The operation, whether it be
performed upon the growing hair, or upon that which is faded and dead,
must be carried out with carefulness and patience to ensure a
satisfactory result. Men in all branches of science, have to perform one
experiment after another before they can achieve success, and
hairdressers, if they wish to be clever in their profession, must be
content to do the same.