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[Illustration: _Yours truly, Edwin Creer_]
BOARD-WORK;
OR
THE ART OF WIG-MAKING,
ETC.
DESIGNED FOR THE USE OF HAIRDRESSERS AND ESPECIALLY OF YOUNG MEN IN THE
TRADE.
TO WHICH IS ADDED
REMARKS UPON RAZORS, RAZOR-SHARPENING, RAZOR STROPS, & MISCELLANEOUS
RECIPES,
SPECIALLY SELECTED.
BY EDWIN CREER,
EDITOR OF “THE HAIRDRESSERS’ CHRONICLE,” AUTHOR OF “A POPULAR TREATISE
ON THE HUMAN HAIR,” “LESSONS IN HAIRDRESSING,” ETC.
_WITH PORTRAIT AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS._
LONDON:
R. HOVENDEN & SONS,
31 & 32, BERNERS STREET, W., AND
91, 93, & 95, CITY ROAD, E.C.
1887.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA AND CO.,
CIRCUS PLACE, LONDON WALL.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
PREFACE.
The following work, which is the result of much anxious study and
labour, is designed to meet a long-felt want. It is intended chiefly for
the use of apprentices, improvers, and others in the trade whose
knowledge of board-work is deficient. The Author trusts that the efforts
he has thus made to disseminate sound and useful information will be
appreciated by those for whom the book is intended. The greater portion
of the matter has been already published in _The Hairdressers’
Chronicle_, but for the purposes of this work it has been carefully
collated, revised, and additions made, so that the subject might be
presented to the trade in a complete form. Nothing of importance to
learners has been omitted, and the Author has dwelt, with repeated
emphasis, upon items which might be considered by some, as minor
details; but every skilled workman knows how necessary it is for pupils
to be well grounded in the rudiments of their art.
It may be taken for granted that he who habitually pays attention to
small matters in connection with his business, will be the one most
depended upon by his employer. But the advantage to be derived from such
a course of action does not end here, for should he embark in trade, the
careful and painstaking man is more likely to meet with a lasting
success. “Anything worth doing, is worth doing well,” cannot be too
deeply impressed upon the mind, and those who studiously regard the
maxim will take a pride in all they undertake. Undue haste in production
must needs make careless workmen, and, perhaps, excessively keen
competition lies at the bottom of all. The Author has reason to know
that a fair percentage of the public does not object to giving a
reasonable price for a good article, and it is worth while to cultivate
such a class of customers. The tradesman, however, must first acquire
ability in his special walk in life; no effort should be spared to
secure the confidence of his patrons by upright dealing: thus it is that
reputations are made and sustained. The public experiences no difficulty
in procuring _cheap_ articles; those which are good in quality and
reasonable in price may not be so easily obtainable. All through this
work, the Author has strenuously urged the reader to produce superior
work as a tradesman, and to practise fair dealing as a man, and if these
principles be acted upon, the student, for whose benefit this treatise
is designed, cannot fail to profit by this endeavour to serve him.
When the present phases of business, and the keenness of competition are
borne in mind, the importance of every person acquiring knowledge in his
craft will at once be appreciated. In no sense more forcibly than this
does the truth of the adage apply, that “Knowledge is power.”
_August, 1887._
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Introduction—A Scientific Description of Hair—Chinese and Japanese
Hair—Chiffonier Hair—Waste Hair—Turned Hair—Combings—Best
Quality Hair—The Hair Market in Brittany—Dr. Lindemann’s
Gregarine—The “Chignon Fungus”—Cuttings 1
CHAPTER II.
The Implements Used in Preparing Hair—The Preparation of Hair
Described—Washing the Hair—Drying the Hair—Drawing the
Hair—Nitting the Hair—Carding the Hair—Curling the Hair—Boiling
and Baking the Hair 18
CHAPTER III.
The Preparation of Hair (_continued_)—Crop Hair—A Remarkable
Trial—Craping and Crimping the Hair—Inserted Stems—Boiling and
Baking _Crêped_ Hair—Combings and Turned Hair alluded to again 29
CHAPTER IV.
Dyeing the Hair—Of Hair-dyes generally—Powder Dyes—Liquid
Dyes—Iron Dyes—Lead Dyes—Various opinions concerning the use of
Lead Dyes—Silver Dyes—Dyeing False and Faded Hair—Bleaching and
Blanching Hair 42
CHAPTER V.
The First Lesson in Wig-making, Weaving the Hair—“Once In,” Close
or Ringlet Weft—“Twice In,” or Front Weft—“Thrice In,” Crop, or
Wig Weft—“Fly” Weft, for Top Rows—Making Ringlet
Bunches—Tufts—Curls on Combs—Alexandra Curls 57
CHAPTER VI.
Making Twists, “Tails,” or Switches—Back and Side Plaits—Chignon
_Universel_—The Zephyr Coiffure—Semi-waved Curled Chignon—A
Novel Chignon—Of Chignons in general 73
CHAPTER VII.
Scalpettes and Fringes; general remarks thereon—Curled and Waved
Fringes—“Water Waves”—Mounting and Making Scalpettes 97
CHAPTER VIII.
The Changeability of Fashion—Bandeaux, Fronts, and Fillets—Plain
Bandeaux—Waved Bandeaux, with Fringe—To Wave the Hair of
Bandeaux—French (woven) Fronts—French (woven) Fronts with
Parting—Diamond-shaped and Wing Fronts—Temple-mounted
Fronts—Fillets or Cauls 115
CHAPTER IX.
General Observations on the Manufacture of Partings and
Crowns—Non-transparent Partings; Silk and Skin—Transparent
Partings; Net, Gauze, Yak, and Human Hair Foundations—“The
Genealogy of Implantation”—Knotting, and some remarks
thereon—Single Knotting—Double Knotting 143
CHAPTER X.
Of Wigs in General, and some Historical remarks thereon—On Taking
an Order for a Wig or Scalp—Means adopted for securing them to
the Head—Directions for Measurement—On Mounting and Making a
Scalp—“Pen-knife” and Metallic Springs—A Scalp described with
Parting and Crown—Scalps with Gauze, Net, and Human Hair
Foundations 157
CHAPTER XI.
Of Gentlemen’s Wigs, and a few additional observations thereon—To
make a strong and durable Wig with woven Hair
throughout—Mounting a Wig—The Metallic Spring again—Various
kinds of Net used—Caution against using too much Hair—Sewing on
the Weft—The Crown made with Weft—The Parting formed with
Weft—Pressing the Work—Of Elastic Springs—The Wig completed 181
CHAPTER XII.
Of Gentlemen’s Wigs (_continued_)—Difference between Woven and
Knotted Wigs considered—Instructions for Making a Knotted Wig—Of
the Parting and Crown—Of the Crown only—Pressing, Dressing,
etc.—A Superior kind of Wig Described, and Making the same—The
Transparent Parting and Crown—Sundry Important Details 195
CHAPTER XIII.
Of Ladies’ Wigs, and important remarks thereon—Of Mounting and
Making Ladies’ Wigs—A well-balanced Wig essential—A Wig with
Parting and Straight Hair throughout—All Weft to be
concealed—Alterations—Of Wigs with Transparent Partings—Mounting
and Making the same—Shape of Head to be noted, together with any
Elevations or Depressions—The Wig-block should be a correct
Model of the Head 209
CHAPTER XIV.
The Use of Leather Rollers in Curling Hair—Papering and Pinching
Hair with the same object in view—Plaiting Hair (for
Coiffures)—Of Razors, Razor Setting, and Razor
Strops—Miscellaneous Recipes 220
ILLUSTRATIONS.
The four pages of illustrations are supplied for the purpose of giving
the learner some designs to work from, and, as fashions repeatedly
change, the ability to make up sundry pieces of work is necessary and
unquestionably useful.
A brief description of the illustrations will be found at the foot of
each page.
BOARD-WORK, OR THE ART OF WIG-MAKING, ETC.
CHAPTER I.
Introduction—A Scientific Description of Hair—Chinese and Japanese
Hair—Chiffonier Hair—Waste Hair—Turned Hair—Combings—Best Quality
Hair—The Hair Market in Brittany—Dr. Lindemann’s Gregarine—The
“Chignon Fungus”—Cuttings.
“Board-work,” in the fullest extent of its signification, means all that
which is done by clever hairdressers and wig-makers in the workshop and
at the work-table. It comprises the cleaning and preparing of hair for
the articles intended to be made; weaving; sewing and knotting; the
making of fronts, bands, chignons, curls and twists of various
descriptions; scalp-making; ladies’ and gentlemen’s wig-making; and
numerous other matters of detail in connection with the subject. That a
treatise on this subject is required there cannot be a doubt, for while
haircutters and shavers continue to increase, the clever worker at the
board, to a certain extent at least, is gradually disappearing. This may
be considered a bold assertion, but it is true nevertheless. Let me give
an illustration in support of this statement, and experienced men,
doubtless, will coincide with my opinion.
It not unfrequently happens that when a youth has acquired a knowledge
of men’s haircutting and shaving, he thinks himself tolerably clever and
able to get his living. If he be well proportioned and possess a kindly
disposition, such a youth is sure to obtain the favourable consideration
of customers, and come to believe, perhaps, that he is on the road to
competency, if not to fortune. By the time he arrives at nineteen or
twenty years of age he most likely desires a change, and seeks another
place, and as he doubtless will get “a rise,” some encouragement is
given to his views by indiscreet acquaintances. Numerous advertisements
constantly appear for “a good haircutter and shaver, with a knowledge of
board-work,” and the young man forthwith applies for the situation, and
obtains it—the “knowledge of board-work” required being, not
unfrequently, of a trivial and elementary character. And thus he goes on
till opportunity offers for further advancement, or going into business,
when he discovers the want of “technical instruction.” Unfortunately,
apprenticeship is thought to be “old-fashioned,” and a lad now-a-days
thinks he can acquire as much trade knowledge in four years as his
master did in seven. But such an idea is, unmistakably, “a delusion and
a snare,” and thus it comes to pass that many men seek to acquire at
thirty what they should have learnt ten or a dozen years before. The
foregoing remarks would apply equally as well to other trades, and
thoughtful men regard this aspect of affairs with some degree of anxiety
and apprehension, hence the desire for “technical instruction,” promoted
as it is by some of the City Guilds.
I have reason to know that the book entitled “Lessons in Hairdressing”
is highly appreciated by many, both employers and employed, and I trust
that “Board-work,” which I shall endeavour to make as complete as
possible, will be equally as acceptable to the trade. The letterpress
descriptions will be given in a comprehensive manner, and where the
intricacies are somewhat complicated or obscure, well-drawn
illustrations will accompany the text. To those who wish to take
advantage of my labours, I will briefly say that no work, however well
written and carefully put together, will impart ability without
practice. Practice must be diligently pursued, and thoughtfully brought
to bear on the instruction given, and a satisfactory result is sure to
follow. As well might a person, after reading sundry works on music, and
becoming acquainted with the significations contained therein, expect
proficiency on a musical instrument, as for any one to think of making a
wig after reading “how it’s done.” Proficiency in any art or trade can
only be acquired by application and hard work. The information it will
be my pleasure to afford, coupled with the industry and perseverance of
the student, must produce one result, that being of an eminently
satisfactory character.
Hair is the substance with which my readers have to deal, and the
subject I have to write about. Hair—the theme of poets’ song, and the
ambition of all true artists to well depict on canvas. The crowning
glory of woman is a fine head of hair, and baldness only becomes age.
Were a person to ask, “What is hair?” probably nineteen people out of
every twenty would consider him an ignoramus, but only let the querist
press for a logical reply, and he, in turn, might regard others in a
similar light. Those employed in manufacturing trades ought surely to
know some particulars concerning the chief material used in the business
in which they are engaged. Unless this knowledge be imparted to the
apprentice or journeyman, technical instruction in any trade cannot be
complete. Physicians and surgeons undergo a long and anxious training
before they are qualified to deal with the numerous ills “that flesh is
heir to.” Dentists, aurists, ophthalmists, chemists, lawyers, and many
others have to master the details of their respective occupations,
before they are regarded as competent men.
It is somewhat surprising to witness the intelligence and knowledge
brought to bear upon sundry manufactures, and a few visits to some of
our workshops and hives of industry in London and the provinces, would
prove a source of pleasure and instruction. I maintain that a scientific
as well as practical knowledge of the materials used in any occupation,
is essential to the welfare of the clever workman; therefore, before
proceeding farther with the object I have in view, I consider it
necessary to answer the question—_What is Hair?_
Hair is distributed over all parts of the body, with the exception of
the palms of the hands, soles of the feet, and the lips. It grows
abundantly upon the head and face, and sparingly upon the trunk and
limbs, and according to its location, differences are observed in shape,
size, colour, and structure. With reference to the structure, I may
observe that a hair has three different modifications of tissue, viz.,
its centre, which constitutes the medulla, or pith, and is a loose
cellulated tissue; that which encloses it forming a greater portion of a
human hair called a fibrous tissue; and the outer sheath, cuticle or
external surface, which is of a horny description. Hairs are somewhat
cylindrical in shape, but not exactly round, and curly or waved hair is
rather flat. Sometimes a hair is described as being hollow, but this is
incorrect, for it not only has a cortical (or external) structure, but a
medullary (or internal) substance. The first is similar to that which
may be described as the bark of a tree, and the second to the pith of
vegetable substances, the internal portions of feathers, or to the
marrow in bones. But it is right to observe that when a hair is viewed
under a microscope with a low power it appears dark at the sides and
bright in the middle, and that appearance would convey the idea of
hollowness. This impression prevailed for a length of time, and
justified the humble barber in stating that “the ’air of the ’ed was a
’ollow tube.” He simply reiterated a statement which other, and probably
wiser, heads had given currency to. When the cortical structure of the
human hair is examined it is found to be jagged like the teeth of a saw,
and it is owing to this imbricated arrangement that hair feels rough to
the touch when the hand is passed from point to root. The serrated
appearance of hair is produced through the outer layer, or cuticle,
being composed of flattened cells, or scales, which overlap each other
like the scales of fishes, only they are not so regularly placed. The
_medulla_, also, consists of a number of cells, which can be seen in
hair that has been steeped for a time in soda or potash. These ceils are
found to be angular or rounded, and if the immersion has not been too
prolonged, will exhibit a nucleus, and one or more globules, or granules
of fat. The medulla forms a dark line passing along the centre of the
hair, and occupies about a fourth or a fifth of its thickness. The
medullary line is absent in infants’ hair, and in very fine light hair;
it is present in strong hair, and is not difficult to trace in white or
grey hair. Dr. Beigel observes, that “we may drive out the air contained
in the central tube—as the medullary has likewise been called—and see it
re-enter again under the microscope. Turpentine penetrates all parts of
the hair which are filled by air, but its action is slow and requires
some time. If we put, therefore, a hair into turpentine, and allow it to
remain therein about twenty-four hours, and view it by the microscope,
we find the central tube, which was black before being acted upon by
turpentine, light,—perfectly transparent. But if we expose the hair
again to a high temperature, the turpentine evaporates, and is replaced
by air, consequently the central tube assumes its dark appearance
again.” It is said that “nature abhors a vacuum,” and, it will perhaps
be thought that the barber’s description of a hair was not so very far
removed from the truth after all.
This description of hair is extracted from a lecture which I delivered
to the members of the British Hairdressers’ Academy and their friends,
at the Rooms, New Bond Street, a few years ago, and the importance of a
correct knowledge of this branch of the subject will be apparent before
my book is ended.
Every hairdresser knows that if his work is to be good, he must use only
hair of the best quality in his business; Chinese hair, Japanese hair,
“Chiffonier” hair, “Waste” hair, “Combings,” “Root and Point” hair, or
“Turned” hair, however cleverly it may be treated to produce fineness
(being afterwards dyed perhaps to impart the desired shade or colour),
can only bring forth one result, and that of an unsatisfactory
character. Competition, and the desire for cheapness, fostered as it is
by the encroachments of other trades, all tend to the manufacture of
goods “to sell,” regardless of any other consideration; and the
introduction of inferior material and workmanship, might thus be
accounted for.
The study of hair, and the condition it should be in when made up and
offered for sale, is of such importance that I consider some further
remarks on the subject necessary. “If a thing is worth doing at all it
is worth doing well;” therefore I address myself to those who take an
interest in the business and desire to improve it, more than I do to
persons who vend almost anything “for a consideration.” Allusion has
been made to various qualities of human hair, and I refer to them again
for the purpose of pointing out what should be avoided by respectable
and reputable tradesmen. “Chinese” and “Japanese” hair is coarse, strong
and abundant, and unsuited to the English people; but it can be treated
so as to make it passable amongst persons of “economic” proclivities.
One thing is certain, and that is, Chinese hair finds its way into the
market, for in 1872 no less than 100,000 lbs. of human hair was received
at Marseilles, the principal portion of which came from the Celestial
Empire.
“Paris owns,” says Mr. P. L. Simmonds, in his excellent book on “Waste
Products and Undeveloped Substances,” “among its street curiosities, a
race as distinct from the elements of social life as the roving gipsies
who have clung together and run over Europe for centuries. Consequently,
its manners widely differ from those of the common run of mankind. These
heteroclites are a species of night-birds of the human race; everything
about them reminds you of dark shades and fantastic silhouettes; they
sleep at daytime, and spring out of the earth when twilight sets; no one
could say whence they come and whither they go.... They move about the
deserted streets like a horde of phantoms; the lanterns they hold shine
dimly and fluctuate to and fro in essentially supernatural zigzags. The
chiffonier has a basket strapped to his shoulders; he creeps along the
asphalte like a wolf in a sheepfold; whoever ignores his attributions
would think him bent on grievous mischief; he holds an iron hook, and
stops at every heap of rubbish. Parisians are still in the habit of
accumulating their refuse before their doors. The iron hook goes to work
busily in the cabbage-leaf, rag, and broken-glass hillocks, while the
light of the lantern shows the basket-owner what is worth taking, and
then the hook transfers the rubbish to the basket over the man’s
shoulder.” Among the hundred and one things which these people find is
“waste,” or “chiffonier” hair: and regarding this I will make a
quotation from another reliable source.
M. Alphonse Bouchard, writing on the subject in _The Hairdressers’
Chronicle_, in the year 1873, and at a time when hair was scarce in
consequence of the then prevailing fashion, says:—
“The hair that has fallen off is carefully collected by men who make
this work their special business. They despise that which their brethren
of the rag eagerly search for. Bones, rags of every description,
fragments of crystal, broken glass, old iron, old newspapers, all these
are neglected and despised by these specials. See them bent over a pile
of rubbish, which often contains little else but cabbage refuse and a
few broken corks. They bend over it and kneel over it as intently as if
they were looking for the philosopher’s stone, when suddenly we see them
draw from the midst the little balls of hair which nearly every woman
makes of the hair-combings....
“But let us follow M. Denizet, the author of a remarkable work on ‘Waste
Hair,’ in these developments,” continues M. Bouchard. “This writer tells
us that the plaits or small chignons, and which are consequently cheap,
weigh from 60 to 80 grammes, and that in every one of them there is
contained hair from more than two hundred persons. The following is
their origin and manufacture. In the issues of the toilet of these two
hundred women of all ages and stations, the hair of the middle-class
woman is first observed. These women are in the habit of rolling the
combings over their fingers, then putting them into a small piece of
paper, so that they do not fly away, and this hair is found in the
sweepings of the house.... In the state in which the hair leaves the bag
of the collector it seems good for nothing. People in general would not
like to touch it, and yet of this refuse the cheap _postiches_ are made
which adorn the heads of persons who will not pay the price of hair cut
off from the head.”
In speaking of the several operations which this hair has to go through,
my esteemed Parisian correspondent quotes M. Denizet almost verbatim.
“The waste, seemingly without value, is sold at six francs a kilogramme
to wholesale dealers, who sell it again, just as it was purchased, at
nine francs, to small manufacturers, who work it, and then it is sold to
certain hair-merchants, who in their turn send it to small hairdressers,
both at home and abroad. The work of the small manufacturer consists in
five principal operations, which are:—1. _The Cleansing._—The hair is
rolled and twisted about in sawdust to free it from dirt, dust, and
grease. It is then opened by hand. 2. _The Combing._—The hair having
been well disentangled, stretched, cleaned, and freed from grease, by
means of black soap or certain chemical substances, is dried, and then
combed in large cards with iron points, the same as are used for
mattress-wool; this operation is done very carefully, to prevent the
hair from being broken. 3. _Turning._[1]—Starting upon the principle
that the hair is a conical tube, which tapers off from the root to the
point, a piece of hair of the thickness of a finger is rolled forwards
and backwards between the hands. The piece elongates, the hair going in
different directions, according as the root or point is situated. They
are then easily separated, and put once again root to root and point to
point, and this is the reason why it is called ‘turned hair.’ 4.
_Classing._—There are only three lengths made of this hair, that which
is used for plaits, for chignons of all kinds, and for men’s wigs. The
refuse from these four operations is about half of the whole quantity in
weight, and is good for nothing. 5. _Picking the Colour._—This work
requires the most patience, and is generally performed by women. It
consists in dividing the hair according to colours. As there are seven
principal colours and three lengths, each packet is divided into
twenty-one portions. The shades are white, grey, black, brown, chestnut,
blonde, and red. The lengths vary from twenty centimetres to seventy
centimetres. Having passed through these different operations, the hair
is ready for use in _postiches_.”
From about this time, then, “root and point” hair, “turned” hair, and so
forth came into requisition, and English “combings” followed as a matter
of course. Nowadays ladies save the “waste” hair which has been removed
by the action of comb and brush, and when the mass has assumed somewhat
large proportions it is taken to a hairdresser’s to be made up, and
emanates therefrom in the shape of a plait, twist, &c. To show that I am
not alone in regarding the use of this inferior hair with aversion, I
will quote the following from the _American Hairdresser and Perfumer_:—
“This fact alone, namely, the general and almost universal use of the
filthy and unwieldy substitutes for first quality cut hair, known as
‘Italian,’ ‘refined China,’ ‘unrefined China,’ ‘Georgia’ (refined China
under another name), and all the grades of ‘second’ and lower qualities,
all this has done more towards disgusting our better class of people
(those who have the means at command) with wearing false hair than any
prevailing style or notion could have done.”
There is much truth in this, and I commend the further consideration of
the subject to the serious attention of all who desire to advance and
benefit the trade.
Having given a description of hair, and spoken disapprovingly of the
commoner sorts, I purpose considering the better qualities before
dealing with more practical details. If the maker of an article wishes
his work to be of a superior description he must necessarily confine
himself to the use of good materials, and the fine quality of the hair
used is of the greatest importance. I will observe that hair should
always be cut from the head, for then it is in good condition and very
different to the “dead” hair which is thrown off daily by most people,
and is now well known under the common appellation of “combings.” Hair
of the best description is obtained from France and Italy, whence come
sundry shades of black and brown. The first-named country, as well as
Germany and Sweden, supplies the market with brown, light, flaxen, and
red hair, while grey pieces are to be found in most parcels,
consequently its source may be described as universal. There are regular
“hair-harvests,” and agents or collectors travel from place to place at
certain times, for the purpose of obtaining the hair of peasant-girls in
exchange for money, trinkets, or other articles of personal adornment.
Mr. Francis Trollope, in his “Summer in Brittany,” gives an amusing as
well as interesting account of what he observed at a fair in Collenée,
and its relation here will be appropriate. He says:—“What surprised me
more than all, by the singularity and novelty of the thing, were the
operations of the dealers in hair. In various parts of the motley crowd
there were three or four purchasers of this commodity, who travel the
country for the purpose of attending the fairs and buying the tresses of
the peasant-girls. They have particularly fine hair, and frequently in
the greatest abundance. I should have thought that female vanity would
have effectually prevented such a traffic as this being carried to any
extent; but there seemed to be no difficulty in finding beautiful heads
of hair perfectly willing to sell. We saw several girls sheared, one
after the other, like sheep, and as many more standing ready for the
shears, with their caps in their hands, and their long hair combed out
and hanging down to their waists. Some of the operators were men, and
some women. By the side of the dealer was placed a large basket, into
which every successive crop of hair, tied up into a wisp, was thrown. No
doubt the reason of their indifference to their tresses on the part of
the fair Bretonnes is to be found in the invariable mode which covers
every head, from childhood upwards, with close caps, which entirely
prevent any part of the hair from being seen, and, of course, as totally
conceal the want of it. The money given for the hair is about twenty
sous, or else a gaudy cotton handkerchief; they net immense profits by
their trips through the country.” This hair is, as I am informed, the
finest and most silken black hair that can be procured.
Preparing hair requires careful manipulation, for unless it be properly
cleaned and drawn off into the required lengths, the particular work in
hand stands a chance of being spoiled. Only fancy making a silk or skin
parting with hair that has been imperfectly cleaned; the result can
easily be imagined; or a sensitive lady’s surprise and disgust should
she discover a “nit” upon her torsade or plait.
While mentioning this, I cannot help calling to mind the exaggerated and
untruthful statements which were made some years ago in reference to Dr.
Lindemann’s alleged discovery of “gregarines” upon false hair, and their
rapid procreation. The effect produced was most prejudicial to
hairdressers, until, after a few weeks had elapsed, it came to be
regarded as “one of those things which no fella could understand.” Let
me here observe that I have not seen a gregarine, neither have I been
able to procure one from the source indicated by the learned Russian
professor, nor could I ever meet with a scientific gentleman who had a
specimen of the kind in his possession. Indeed, I might go a little
farther, and say that I have been unable to discover any one who has
even seen a gregarine, although the “Micrographic Dictionary” informs me
that they are to be obtained from about eighty different sources. Such,
then, is their insignificant character and appearance when viewed under
a powerful glass. This scare was soon followed by the so-called “chignon
fungus,” which brought forth a most interesting disquisition upon the
subject by Dr. Tilbury Fox, at one of the learned societies; but the
fungoid growth that was found upon a particular piece of hair had
nothing whatever to do with a chignon, as an examination of a portion of
the same hair now in my possession would readily prove.
The good condition of hair is taken into consideration by professional
hair merchants, for their very success in business depends on the
unmistakably clean and glossy appearance of the article in which they
deal. I would urge, therefore, all hairdressers who carry on a
respectable trade, and are desirous of improving it, to purchase hair of
first-rate quality only, and only to buy it of those who study to well
prepare it for their use. They should avoid, if possible, having
anything to do with the common rubbish which now and again finds its way
into the market, and will thus be able to give a good article for a fair
and remunerative price. It may be said, however, that all in the
hairdressing profession are not able to go or send to some depôt in the
vicinity for every little requirement; neither is it convenient for them
to keep in stock hair of every shade or length. Besides, they may have a
quantity of “cuttings” (not “combings,” mark you!) which should be
utilised and, after careful treatment, made up for sale. It is, then, to
such tradesmen that I desire to speak, and hope my remarks will be found
useful in the course of their business career.