_Thursday, July 10, 1862._ (---- Plantation._)--Yesterday about 4 o'clock
we walked to the lake and embarked. Provisions and utensils were packed in
the lockers, and a large trunk was stowed at each end. The blankets and
cushions were placed against one of them, and Annie and I sat on them
Turkish fashion. Near the center the two smaller trunks made a place for
Reeney. Max and H. were to take turns at the rudder and oars. The last
word was a fervent God-speed from Mr. E., who is left in charge of all our
affairs. We believe him to be a Union man, but have never spoken of it to
him. We were gloomy enough crossing the lake, for it was evident the
heavily laden boat would be difficult to manage. Last night we staid at
this plantation, and from the window of my room I see the men unloading
the boat to place it on the cart, which a team of oxen will haul to the
river. These hospitable people are kindness itself, till you mention the
war.
_Saturday, July 12, 1862. (Under a cotton-shed on the bank of the
Mississippi River.)_--Thursday was a lovely day, and the sight of the
broad river exhilarating. The negroes launched and reloaded the boat, and
when we had paid them and spoken good-bye to them we felt we were really
off. Every one had said that if we kept in the current the boat would
almost go of itself, but in fact the current seemed to throw it about, and
hard pulling was necessary. The heat of the sun was very severe, and it
proved impossible to use an umbrella or any kind of shade, as it made
steering more difficult. Snags and floating timbers were very troublesome.
Twice we hurried up to the bank out of the way of passing gunboats, but
they took no notice of us. When we got thirsty, it was found that Max had
set the jug of water in the shade of a tree and left it there. We must dip
up the river water or go without. When it got too dark to travel safely we
disembarked. Reeney gathered wood, made a fire and some tea, and we had a
good supper. We then divided, H. and I remaining to watch the boat, Max
and Annie on shore. She hung up a mosquito-bar to the trees and went to
bed comfortably. In the boat the mosquitoes were horrible, but I fell
asleep and slept till voices on the bank woke me. Annie was wandering
disconsolate round her bed, and when I asked the trouble, said, "Oh, I
can't sleep there! I found a toad and a lizard in the bed." When dropping
off again, H. woke me to say he was very sick; he thought it was from
drinking the river water. With difficulty I got a trunk opened to find
some medicine. While doing so a gunboat loomed up vast and gloomy, and we
gave each other a good fright. Our voices doubtless reached her, for
instantly every one of her lights disappeared and she ran for a few
minutes along the opposite bank. We momently expected a shell as a feeler.
At dawn next morning we made coffee and a hasty breakfast, fixed up as
well as we could in our sylvan dressing-rooms, and pushed on, for it is
settled that traveling between eleven and two will have to be given up
unless we want to be roasted alive. H. grew worse. He suffered terribly,
and the rest of us as much to see him pulling in such a state of
exhaustion. Max would not trust either of us to steer. About eleven we
reached the landing of a plantation. Max walked up to the house and
returned with the owner, an old gentleman living alone with his slaves.
The housekeeper, a young colored girl, could not be surpassed in her
graceful efforts to make us comfortable and anticipate every want. I was
so anxious about H. that I remember nothing except that the cold
drinking-water taken from a cistern beneath the building, into which only
the winter rains were allowed to fall, was like an elixir. They offered
luscious peaches that, with such water, were nectar and ambrosia to our
parched lips. At night the housekeeper said she was sorry they had no
mosquito-bars ready and hoped the mosquitoes would not be thick, but they
came out in legions. I knew that on sleep that night depended recovery or
illness for H. and all possibility of proceeding next day. So I sat up
fanning away mosquitoes that he might sleep, toppling over now and then on
the pillows till roused by his stirring. I contrived to keep this up till,
as the chill before dawn came, they abated and I got a short sleep. Then,
with the aid of cold water, a fresh toilet, and a good breakfast, I braced
up for another day's baking in the boat.
[If I had been well and strong as usual the discomforts of such a journey
would not have seemed so much to me; but I was still weak from the effects
of the fever, and annoyed by a worrying toothache which there had been no
dentist to rid me of in our village.[31]]
Having paid and dismissed the boat's watchman, we started and traveled
till eleven to-day, when we stopped at this cotton-shed. When our dais was
spread and lunch laid out in the cool breeze, it seemed a blessed spot. A
good many negroes came offering chickens and milk in exchange for
tobacco, which we had not. We bought some milk with money.
A United States transport just now steamed by and the men on the guards
cheered and waved to us. We all replied but Annie. Even Max was surprised
into an answering cheer, and I waved my handkerchief with a very full
heart as the dear old flag we have not seen for so long floated by; but
Annie turned her back.
_Sunday, July 13, 1862. (Under a tree on the east bank of the
Mississippi.)_--Late on Saturday evening we reached a plantation whose
owner invited us to spend the night at his house. What a delightful thing
is courtesy! The first tone of our host's welcome indicated the true
gentleman. We never leave the oars with the watchman; Max takes those,
Annie and I each take a band-box, H. takes my carpet-sack, and Reeney
brings up the rear with Annie's. It is a funny procession. Mr. B.'s family
were absent, and as we sat on the gallery talking it needed only a few
minutes to show this was a "Union man." His home was elegant and tasteful,
but even here there was neither tea nor coffee.
About eleven we stopped here in this shady place. While eating lunch the
negroes again came imploring for tobacco. Soon an invitation came from the
house for us to come and rest. We gratefully accepted, but found the idea
of rest for warm, tired travelers was for us to sit in the parlor on stiff
chairs while the whole family trooped in, cool and clean in fresh toilets,
to stare and question. We soon returned to the trees; however, they
kindly offered corn-meal pound-cake and beer, which were excellent. If we
reach Fetler's Landing to-night, the Mississippi-River part of the journey
is concluded. Eight gunboats and one transport have passed us. Getting out
of their way has been troublesome. Our gentlemen's hands are badly
blistered.
_Tuesday, July 15, 1862._--Sunday night about ten we reached the place
where, according to our map, Steele's Bayou comes nearest to the
Mississippi, and where the landing should be, but when we climbed the
steep bank there was no sign, of habitation. Max walked off into the woods
on a search, and was gone so long we feared he had lost his way. He could
find no road. H. suggested shouting and both began. At last a distant
halloo replied, and by cries the answerer was guided to us. A negro said
"Who are you? What do you want?" "Travelers seeking shelter for the
night." He came forward and said that was the right place, his master kept
the landing, and he would watch the boat for five dollars. He showed the
road, and said his master's house was one mile off and another house two
miles. We mistook and went to the one two miles off. There a legion of
dogs rushed at us, and several great, tall, black fellows surrounded us
till the master was roused. He put his head through the window and
said,--"I'll let nobody in. The Yankees have been here and took
twenty-five of my negroes to work on their fortifications, and I've no
beds nor anything for anybody." At 1 o'clock we reached Mr. Fetler's, who
was pleasant, and said we should have the best he had. The bed into whose
grateful softness I sank was piled with mattresses to within two or three
feet of the ceiling, and, with no step-ladder, getting in and out was a
problem. This morning we noticed the high-water mark, four feet above the
lower floor. Mrs. Fetler said they had lived up-stairs several weeks.
FOOTNOTES:
[31] Restored omission. See page 262.