CHAPTER IV

OLD FORGOTTEN THINGS

Chief Justice Bushe died in 1843, and Maria Edgeworth in 1849, but Mrs.

Bushe lived on till 1857, a delight and an inspiration to her children

and grandchildren. To her, even more than to the Chief, may be ascribed

the inevitable, almost invariable turn for the Arts, in some form,

frequently in all forms, that distinguishes their descendants, and to

her also is attributed a quality in story-telling known as “Crampton

dash,” which may be explained as an intensifying process, analogous to

the swell in an organ.

But few of their grandchildren, that potent and far-reaching first

cousinhood of seventy, now remain. Bushes, Plunkets, Coghills, Foxes,

Franks, Harrises, they were a notable company, and I imagine that in the

middle and later years of the last century they made a clan of no small

power and influence. “Dublin is my washpot, over Merrion Square will I

cast out my shoe,” they might have said, possibly did say, in their

arrogant youth, when “The Family,” good-looking, amusing, and strenuous,

“took the flure” in the Dublin society of the ’fifties. From among them

came no luminary in Art, specially outstanding, yet there was scarcely

one of them without some touch of that spark which is lit by a coal

taken from the altar, and is, for want of a better term, called

originality; and although the reputations of neither Shakespeare nor

Michael Angelo were threatened, they could have provided a club

dedicated to “Les Quatz’ Arts” with a very useful selection of members.

(Yet the mention of Shakespeare, and the wish to be sincere, force me to

recall a tale of two of these first cousins of Martin’s mother and mine,

the one an artist of delightful achievement, the other, amongst her many

gifts, an astronomer and writer. The latter reproached the former for

her neglect of Shakespeare, and announced her intention of reading aloud

to her one of his plays. The artist replied with a high and

characteristic tranquillity, “Shakespeare was a coarse man, my dear, but

you may read him to me if you like. I can go into a reverie.”)

It is not out of place to mention here that the first writing in which

Martin and I collaborated was a solemnly preposterous work, a dictionary

of the words and phrases peculiar to our family, past and present, with

derivations and definitions--the definitions being our opportunity. It

might possibly--in fact I think some selections would--entertain the

public, but I can confidently say it will never be offered to it;

Bowdler himself would quail at the difficulties it would present.

* * * * *

Martin has, in her memoir of her brother Robert, given a sketch of life

at Ross as it was in the old days, in its patriarchal simplicity, its

pastoral abundance, its limitless hospitality, its feudal relations with

the peasants. Its simplicity was, I imagine, of a more primitive type

than can be claimed for any conditions that I can personally remember in

my own country. The time of which she has written was already passing

when she arrived on the scene, and she had to rely mainly on the

records of her elders. The general atmosphere there and in my country

was much the same, but a certain degree of sophistication may have set

in a little earlier here, and when I say “here,” I speak of that fair

and far-away district, the Barony of West Carbery, County Cork, the

ultimate corner of the ultimate speck of Europe--Ireland. You will not

find West Carbery’s name in the atlas, but Cape Clear will not be

denied, and there is nothing of West Carbery west of Cape Clear, unless

one counts its many sons and daughters who have gone even farther west,

to the Land of the Setting Sun.

The Ireland that Martin and I knew when we were children is fast leaving

us; every day some landmark is wiped out; I will try, as she has done,

to recapture some of the flying memories.

To begin with

CASTLE TOWNSHEND.

Castle Townshend is a small village in the south-west of the County of

Cork, unique in many ways among Irish villages, incomparable in the

beauty of its surroundings, remarkable in its high level of

civilisation, and in the number of its “quality houses.” “High ginthry

does be jumpin’ mad for rooms in this village,” was how the matter was

defined by a skilled authority, while another, equally versed in social

matters, listened coldly to commendation of a rival village, and

remarked, “It’s a nice place enough, but the ginthry is very light in

it. It’s very light with them there entirely.”

I hasten to add that this criticism did not refer to the morals of the

gentry, merely to their scarcity--as one says “a light crop.”

Castlehaven Harbour, to whose steep shores it adheres, defiant of the

law of gravity, by whose rules it should long since have slipped into

the sea, has its place in history. The Spanish Armada touched _en

passant_ (touched rather hard in some places), one of Queen Elizabeth’s

admirals, Admiral Leveson, touched too, fairly hard, and left

cannon-ball bruises on the walls of Castlehaven Castle. The next

distinguished visitors were a force of Cromwell’s troopers. Brian’s

Fort, built by Brian Townshend, the son of one of Cromwell’s officers,

still stands firm, and Swift’s tower, near it, is distinguished as the

place where “the gloomy Dean; (of _autre fois_) wrote a Latin poem,

called “Carberiae Rupes.” A translation of this compliment to the Rocks

of Carbery was printed one hundred and seventy years ago in Smith’s

“History of the Co. Cork.” It was much admired by the historian. A

quotation from it may be found in “A Record of Holiday,” in one of our

books, “Some Irish Yesterdays,” but candour compels me to admit that

four of its lines, descriptive of the coast of Carbery--

“Oft too, with hideous yawn, the cavern wide

Presents an orifice on either side;

A dismal orifice, from sea to sea

Extended, pervious to the god of day.”

--might be taken as equally descriptive of its readers.

The _Titanic_ passed within a few miles of Castlehaven on her first and

last voyage; I saw her racing to the West, into the glow of a fierce

winter sunset. It was from Castle Townshend that the first warnings of

the sharks that were waiting for the _Lusitania_ were sent; and into

Castlehaven Harbour came, by many succeeding tides, victims of that

tragedy. Let it be remembered to the honour of the fishermen who

harvested those sheaves of German reaping, that the money and the

jewels, which most of the drowned

[Illustration: CASTLEHAVEN HARBOUR.

V. F. M.

]

[Illustration: CARBERIAE RUPES.

E. B. C.

]

people had brought with them, were left with them, untouched.

It must have been eighty or ninety years ago that the first member of

“The Chief’s” family reached Castlehaven. This was his second son, the

Rev. Charles Bushe, who was, as Miss Edgeworth says of her stepmamma’s

brother, “fatly and fitly provided for” with the living of Castlehaven.

Somervilles and Townshends had been living and intermarrying in

Castlehaven Parish, with none to molest their ancient solitary reign,

since Brian Townshend built himself the fort from which he could look

forth upon one of the loveliest harbours in Ireland, and the Reverend

Thomas Somerville, the first of his family to settle in Munster, took to

himself (by purchase from the representatives of the Earl of

Castlehaven) the old O’Driscoll Castle, and lies buried beside it, in

St. Barrahane’s churchyard, under a slab that proclaims him to have been

“A Worthy Magistrate, and a Safe and Affable Companion.” The two clans

enjoyed in those days, I imagine, a splendid isolation, akin to that of

the Samurai in Old Japan, and the Rev. Charles Bushe, an apostle of an

alien cultivation, probably realised the feelings of Will Adams when he

was cast ashore at Osaka, may, indeed, have felt his position to be as

precarious as that of the first missionary at the Court of the King of

the Cannibal Islands.

My great-uncle Charles was for forty years the Rector of Castlehaven

Parish, and the result of his ministry that most directly affects me was

the marriage of my father, Colonel Thomas Henry Somerville, of Drishane,

to the Rev. Charles’s niece, Adelaide Coghill. (That she was also his

step-sister-in-law is a fact too bewildering to anyone save a

professional genealogist for me to dwell on it here. I will merely say

that my mother’s father was Admiral Sir Josiah Coghill, and her mother

was Anna Maria Bushe, daughter of the Chief Justice.)[6]

There is a picture extant, the work of that artist to whom I have

already referred, in which is depicted the supposed indignation of the

Aboriginal Red men, _i.e._, my grandfather Somerville and his household,

at the apostasy of my father, a Prince of the (Red) Blood Royal, in

departing from the family habit of marrying a Townshend, and in allying

himself with a Paleface. In that picture the Red men and women are armed

with clubs, the Palefaces with croquet mallets. It was with these that

they entered in and possessed the land. My grandmother (_née_ Townshend,

of Castle Townshend), a small and eminently dignified lady, one of my

great-aunts, and other female relatives, are profanely represented,

capering with fury, clad in brief garments of rabbit skin. The Paleface

females surge in vast crinolines; the young Red man is encircled by

them, as was the swineherd in Andersen’s fairy tale, by the Court

ladies. My grandfather swings a tomahawk, and is faced by my uncle, Sir

Joscelyn Coghill, leader of the second wave of invasion, with a

photographic camera (the first ever seen in West Carbery) and a tripod.

* * * * *

I think I must diverge somewhat farther from my main thesis in order to

talk a little about the Ancient Order of Hibernians (if I may borrow the

appellation) who were thus dispossessed. For, as is the way all the

world over, the missionaries ate up the cannibals, and the Red men have

left only their names and an unworthy granddaughter to commemorate their

customs.

Few South Pacific Islands are now as isolated as was, in those days,--I

speak of ninety or one hundred years ago--Castle Townshend. The roads

were little better than bridle-paths; they straggled and struggled, as

far as was possible, along the crests of the hills, and this was as a

protection to the traveller, who could less easily be ambushed and

waylaid by members of the large assortment of secret societies,

Whiteboys, Ribbonmen, Molly Maguires, Outlaws in variety, whose spare

moments between rebellions were lightened by highway robbery. I have

heard that my great-grandmother’s “coach” was the only wheeled vehicle

that came into Castle Townshend. My great-grandfather used to ride to

Cork, fifty-two miles, and the tradition is that he had a fabulous black

mare, named Bess, who trotted the journey in three hours (which I take

leave to doubt). All the heavy traffic came and went by sea. The pews of

the church came from Cork by ship. They have passed now, but I can

remember them, and I should have thought that their large simplicity

would not have been beyond the scope of the local carpenter. There was a

triple erection for the pulpit; the clerk sat in the basement, the

service was read _au premier_, and to the top story my great-uncle

Charles was wont to mount, in a black gown and “bands,” and thence

deliver classic discourses, worthy, as I have heard, of the son of

“silver-tongued Bushe,” but memorable to me (at the age of, say, six)

for the conviction, imparted by them anew each Sunday, that they were

samples of eternity, and would never end. My eldest brother, who shared

the large square pew with our grandfather and me, was much sustained by

a feud with a coastguard child, with whom he competed in the emulous

construction of grimaces, mainly based, like the sermons, on an

excessive length of tongue, but I had no such solace. Feuds are,

undoubtedly, a great solace to _ennui_, and in the elder times of a

hundred years or so ago they seem to have been the mainstay of society

in West Cork. Splendid feuds, thoroughly made, solid, and without a

crack into which any importunate dove could insert so much as an

olive-leaf.

Ireland was, in those days, a forcing bed for individuality. Men and

women, of the upper classes, were what is usually described as “a law

unto themselves,” which is another way of saying that they broke those

of all other authorities. That the larger landowners were, as a class,

honourable, reasonably fair-minded, and generous, as is not, on the

whole, disputed, is a credit to their native kindliness and good

breeding. They had neither public opinion nor legal restraint to

interfere with them. Each estate was a kingdom, and, in the

impossibility of locomotion, each neighbouring potentate acquired a

relative importance quite out of proportion to his merits, for to love

your neighbour--or, at all events, to marry her--was almost inevitable

when matches were a matter of mileage, and marriages might be said to

have been made by the map. Enormous families were the rule in all

classes, such being reputed to be the will of God, and the olive

branches about the paternal table often became of so dense a growth as

to exclude from it all other fruits of the earth, save, possibly, the

potato.

Equally vigorous, as I have said, was the growth of character. There was

room in those spacious days for expansion, and the advantage was not

wasted. There was an old lady who lived in West Carbery, and died some

fifty years ago, about whom legend has accumulated. She lived in a gaunt

grey house, that still exists, and is as suggestive of a cave as

anything as high and narrow, and implacably symmetrical, can be. Tall

elms enshroud it, and rooks at evening make a black cloud about it. It

has now been civilised, but I can remember the awe it inspired in me as

a child. She was of distinguished and ancient family (though she was

born in such remote ages that one would say there could have been

scarcely more than two generations between her and Adam and Eve). She

was very rich, and she was a miser of the school of comic opera, showy

and dramatic. Her only son, known, not without reason, as “Johnny Wild,”

is said, after many failures, to have finally extracted money from her

by the ingenious expedient of inveigling her into a shed in which was a

wicked bull, and basing a claim for an advance on the probability that

the bull would do the same. She lost ten shillings on a rent day, and

raised it among her tenants by means of a round-robin. Her costume was

that of a scarecrow that has lost all self-respect, yet--a solitary

extravagance--when she went in a train she travelled first-class. It is

said that on a journey to Dublin she was denounced to the guard as a

beggar-woman who had mistaken the carriage. It happened that the

denouncer was a lady with a courtesy-title derived from a peerage of

recent and dubious origin. The beggar-woman threatened to recite their

respective pedigrees on the platform, and the protest was withdrawn.

Naturally she fought with most of her neighbours, specially her

kinsfolk, and, as a result of a specially sanguinary engagement,

announced that she would never again “set foot” in the village sacred to

her clan (and it may be noted that the term “to set foot” invariably

implies something sacrificial, a rite, but one always more honoured in

the breach than in the observance) “until the day when she went into it

with four horses and her two feet foremost,” which referred to her final

transit to the family burying-ground. On her death-bed, a cousin, not

unnaturally anxious as to her future welfare, offered to read to her

suitable portions of the Bible, but the offer was declined.

“Faith, my dear, I’ll not trouble ye. I know it all by heart; but I’m

obliged to ye, and I wish I had a pound that I might give it ye, but I

haven’t so much as a ha’penny.”

She shortly afterwards died, and there was found in her bedroom, in a

desk, £500, and a further £20 was discovered rolled up in an old bonnet,

a black straw bonnet with bright green ribbons.

Irish Memories · 第 3 / 27 章