CHAPTER XV.

Having followed the various little parties into which the great train

had resolved itself when it began to feel the pressure of suffering and

trouble which came with contact with the desert, followed them in their

various ways till they came through to the Pacific Slope, the travels

and experiences of the Author are again resumed.

It will be remembered that he had rested at Los Angeles, working for Mr.

Brier who had temporarily turned boarding house keeper, and finally made

arrangements with some drovers to assist in taking a small stock of

horses north to the mines. His story is thus continued:--

We followed the wagon road which the companies that had gone on before

had made, and got along very well. At night I acted

independently--staked out my mule and ate my meal of dried meat and

crackers--then joined the others around a large fire, and all seemed to

enjoy the company. After a few days the two men who owned the horses

proposed to me to let my mule carry the provisions, and they wanted me

to ride one of their horses that was not carrying a pack, as they said

it would keep it more gentle to ride it.

To please the old gentleman from Sacramento I agreed to the proposition,

for I thought perhaps by being accommodating I could get along more

pleasantly.

Thus we traveled on, over rolling hills covered with grass and wild

flowers, and I was much pleased with all that I could see. For the first

two days we did not pass a house, which shows how thinly settled the

country was. Cattle were often seen, and sometimes horses, but people

were very scarce. In time we went down a long, steep hill, then across a

wide valley that supported a rank growth of vegetation, and came to a

Mission called San Buena Ventura (good luck.) Here the men seemed

scarce, but Indians and dogs plenty. The houses were of the same sort as

at Los Angeles, except the church, all made of dried mud, and never more

than one story high.

As we journeyed along we came to the sea shore, the grandest sight in

the world to me, for I had never before seen the ocean. What a wide

piece of water it was! Far out I could see small waves coming toward the

shore, and the nearer they came the faster they seemed to rush and at

last turned into great rollers and breakers which dashed upon the rocks

or washed far up the sandy shore with a force that made the ground

tremble. There was no wind and I could not see what it could be that so

strangely agitated the water. Here the waves kept coming, one after

another, with as much regularity as the slow strokes of a clock. This

was the first puzzle the great sea propounded to me, and there under the

clear blue sky and soft air I studied over the ceaseless, restless

motion and the great power that was always beating on the shore. I

tasted the water and found it exceedingly salt, and I did not see how

anything could live in it and not become in the condition of pickled

pork or fish. Where was the salt to make this mighty brine pond, and why

did it keep so when the great rivers kept pouring in their torrents of

fresh waters? I did not understand, and these are some of the thoughts

that came to the boy who had been raised upon the prairie, and to whom

the great ocean was indeed an unknown sea.

We followed along the road and in time came to another village and

Mission called Santa Barbara. The village was near the shore, and the

church farther back upon an elevated piece of ground near the foot of

the mountain, overlooking the town and sea and much of the country to

the south, west and east. The mountain was high and rough, and a point

ran out into the sea making a sort of harbor. This town was built much

as the others had been except perhaps the Mission which seemed better.

The roofs were as flat as the floors and were covered with a sort of tar

which made them water-proof. The material of the houses was sun-dried

bricks, two feet long by one foot wide and four to six inches thick.

There was no lime in the mortar of this mason work, and the openings in

the walls had iron bars across them instead of sash and glass. Dried

hides were spread upon the floors, and there was a large earthen jar for

water, but not a table, bedstead or chair could be seen in the rooms we

saw. A man came along, rode right in at the door, turned around and rode

out again. The floor was so hard that the horse's feet made no

impression on it. Very few men, quite a number of Indians, more women,

and a still larger quantity of dogs made up the inhabitants.

Leaving here the road led back from the sea shore and over quite a level

table land, covered with a big growth of grass and some timber, and then

down to the sandy shore again where the mountain comes so close that we

were crowded down to the very water's edge. Here the never-tiring waves

were still following each other to the shore and dashing themselves to

pieces with such a noise that I felt awed to silence. What a strange

difference in two parts of the earth so little distance from each other!

Here was a waste of waters, there was a waste of sands that may some

time have been the bottom of just such a dashing, rolling sea as this.

And here, between the two, was a fertile region covered with trees,

grass and flowers, and watered with brooks of fresh, sweet water.

Paradise and Desolation! They surely were not far apart. Here I saw some

of the queer things that wash on shore, for we camped close to the

beach.

It was a circumstance of great interest to me to see the sun slowly go

down into the great ocean. Slowly and steadily it went, getting redder

and redder as it went down, then it just touched the distant water and

the waves dashed over more and more of its face till all was covered.

Were it not for the strong, bright rays that still shot up across the

sky one might think it was drowned forever, but in the morning it came

up over the mountain top, having apparently made half the circuit of the

globe.

Soon after this the road left the shore and turned into the mountains.

Another Mission was on this road, Santa Ynez, situated in a beautiful

place but apparently in decay, for the men had gone to the mines,

leaving the Indians, women, and dogs as in other places. San Luis Obispo

was another Mission similarly inhabited, but the surroundings did not

seem so pleasant as those we had seen before, although it bore signs

that considerable had been done. From here our road bore still more

north and we had a long mountain to work over, very rocky, and in some

places barren.

San Miguel was a Mission situated on the bank of a dry stream that

evidently had seen plenty of water earlier in the season. The

surrounding country was covered with scattering timber. Soledad was

another place where there were some improvements, located on a small

river, but nearly deserted like the other places. Prospects at the gold

mines were so favorable that every man felt an irresistible desire to

enrich himself, and so they left their families at the Missions and in

the towns and rushed off to the mines. Nearly all of them expected to

return by winter.

I think I must stop right here and tell about the California carriages

of which I had seen several at Los Angeles and at the Missions along our

road. The first time I saw one it was a great curiosity, I assure you.

The wheels were cut off the end of a sycamore log a little over two feet

in diameter and each section about a foot long. The axle was a piece of

wood eight inches square with a tongue fastened to it long enough to be

used with a yoke of oxen, and the ends of the axle were roughly rounded,

leaving something of a shoulder. The wheels were retained in place by a

big lynch-pin. On the axle and tongue was a strong frame of square hewed

timbers answering for bed pieces, and the bottom was of raw-hide tightly

stretched, which covered the whole frame. Tall stakes at each corner of

the frame held up an awning in hot weather. The yoke was fastened to the

horns of the oxen by strong, narrow strips of raw-hide, and the tongue

was fastened to the yoke in the same way. The driver was generally an

Indian, armed with a small pole six or eight feet long, who marched on

before, the oxen following after. I saw many a wagon like this, the

platform well filled up with women and children, and a pack of dogs

following along behind, slowly rolling over the country, and this is the

way they traveled when they went visiting friends who lived a few miles

in the country. Sometimes the wheels gave perfectly agonizing shrieks as

they revolved, and when they made so much noise that their strong

Spanish nerves could stand it no longer, if there was any green grass to

be found the drivers would crowd in a quantity around the axle, and

there was generally room for a good lot of it, to answer for a

lubricator.

We passed on from Soledad and shortly rose into the table land we had

seen for some time before us. From here we could look north for a long

way with no hill or mountain in sight; but our road led along on the

east side of this treeless plain, so thickly covered with grass that we

recalled some of the old tales of the grassy plains. We passed a

landholder's house on the road, then crossed a range of low mountains

and came to the Mission of San Juan (St. John) situated near the

foot-hills, overlooking a level, rich appearing extent of valley land

with a big vegetable growth all over it; in some places wild mustard

which stood thickly and was from four to ten feet high. I thought what a

splendid place it would be for the Yankees who are fond of greens.

This was the first place since we left Los Angeles where we could buy

any kind of breadstuff, and we were here enabled to get a change of

diet, including greens. This seemed to be one end or side of another

valley, and as we went along it seemed to widen away to the east; but

our course was to the north, and we followed the road. The architecture

of all the buildings except the churches was all the same, being built

of the sun dried adobes or bricks made by mixing up a clay mud with

tough grass and letting it get dry and hard. We saw the same kind of

roof material as before, a sort of mineral tar which I supposed they

must find somewhere about.

I could imagine why the houses were built in this way, for when the

Jesuit missionaries first came in they found the country occupied by

Indians who used their arrows to good effect, as they were jealous of

all outside occupation. The early settlers evidently made the walls of

their dwellings thick and strong enough to resist all kinds of weapons

used by Indians. They could not set fire to them for they were fire

proof and arrow proof, and the hostile Indian could dance on the roof

without being able to get in or do any injury. Thus the poor Indian was

fairly beat and eventually became a better Indian.

The Indians of what is now Nevada and Arizona used to come over into

these rich valleys and clandestinely capture a band of a hundred or more

head of cattle or horses and make their escape. They were often followed

by the herders, but if they did not overtake the thieves before they got

into the deep cañons of the mountains, they would usually turn back and

let them go rather than be led into ambush in some strange narrow place

where escape would be impossible and they might be filled with arrows.

No doubt the trail we had followed across the plains, where there were

so many horses' bones, was one of these trails along which the thieving

Indians took their booty which died upon the trip.

Our road from here was near the foot-hills on the west side of a level,

grassy, thinly timbered valley, and as we advanced we noticed that the

timber grew more plentiful and the trees larger, without much

underbrush. We also noticed that the vegetation was ranker and no doubt

the soil was very rich. We then came to a point where the mountain

reaches out almost across the valley to meet the mountain on the east

side. Here we found a gravelly creek with but little water, but as soon

as we passed this point we saw the valley suddenly widening out, and

beautiful groves of live oak trees scattered all around. The vegetation

here was very rank, the mustard ten feet high in places, making it

difficult to see out of the road. This was perhaps the strongest

contrast to the arid desert that we had seen.

As we went on down the valley the hills seemed to stand farther and

farther back as if to make more room for those who would soon settle in

this fertile place, and we soon came in sight of the village or pueblo

of San Jose (St. Joseph) where we camped. Here we learned that the two

owners of the horses intended to go to San Francisco instead of

Sacramento, and as we considered the former place a very poor one for a

penniless person to go we concluded to break up the company camp and

each do the best he could for himself, for our objective point was the

gold mines, and the sooner we reached them the better.

The drovers who had been anxious to have us go with them and help them

now began to talk about a settlement with us, as if they had done us

great favors, and called on the other fellows to help pay for their

board upon the way. When they came to me they said my share would be an

ounce. This struck me hard, but they said I had ridden their horse all

the way and the charge was very low. I told them I had furnished the

most of the provisions I had eaten, and my mule had packed a good load

all the way, which I considered worth as much as the use of the horse.

But they refused to allow me anything for the use of the mule and became

very urgent in their demand for money.

These men were evidently of the tribe of Skinflint, who had no souls, or

they would not have attempted to rob an almost penniless emigrant in

this way of the last few dollars he had, and all the hope he had of

reaching the mines. I did not desire to give up to such narrow

principles as this and hesitated, but they were bound to have the money

or make a quarrel, and talked pretty loud of the way they collected

debts in Sacramento, so that to avoid trouble and get out of the

clutches of such mean scoundrels as these I counted out sixteen dollars,

almost every cent I had, and reluctantly gave them to my enemy. I

immediately mounted my mule, and without stopping to say goodbye rode

off. I may have quoted a part of the speech Capt Hunt made when the

party wanted to leave the trail and take the cut-off, especially that

part where he alluded to their going to h--l. I very much fear the

little piety my mother taught me was badly strained on that occasion,

and I thought of a good many swear words if I did not say them, which I

suppose is about as bad. I could see how cunningly they had managed to

get me to ride their horse that it might serve as the foundation for a

claim on me for about all the money I had in the world.

I hitched my mule in the edge of the town and went in to look at the

place. The houses were situated very much as in other places we had come

through--scattered around over much ground and built low, but had a

different style of roof, a peaked or sloping one, and covered with half

round tile two feet or more long and an inch thick. One course of these

would be laid with the hollow side up, and then a course with the hollow

side down, covering the joints of the lower course. This allowed the air

to circulate freely and was proof against rain. I saw no flat roofs such

as I had seen down along the coast. I saw one gambling house and about

all the men in town were gathered there, and some women, too. This was

the busiest place in town and situated near the plaza. This was the

largest town I had yet been in. There seemed to be plenty of women and

lots of dogs, but the men were as scarce as they had been in any of the

towns--gone to the gold mines to make a stake. I took in the sights

pretty well, and there were a great many new things for me to see, and

when pretty well satisfied concluded I would go back to my mule and camp

in some place just out of town for the night.

Before I reached my animal whom should I meet but my old traveling

companion John Rogers whom I thought to be a hundred miles away by this

time. We shook hands heartily and he told me that Bennett, Moody and

Skinner were camped not far off, and he was still with them. He wore a

pair of blue overalls, a blue woolen shirt and the same little narrow

rimmed hat he had worn so long. I observed, too, that he was barefoot,

and told him I had a dollar or two which he could take and get some

shoes. He said it was no use for there was not a pair of shoes in the

town to buy, and he had not found any material of which he could make

himself a pair of moccasins. I told him how I had been swindled coming

up, and he was about as angry as I had been. I think if I had known that

my friend John Rogers had been so near I should have bidden the rascals

an unceremonious good-bye and we would have been able to hold our own on

a claim for the services of myself and mule.

We went up to the place where our people were camped, perhaps a mile

above town on the bank of a river, nearly dry, but where plenty of wood,

water and grass were at hand; such a place as we had looked for in vain

for many a weary day upon the desert. This was as far above Death Valley

as a king above a pauper, and we hoped never to see such a country

again.

In camp we talked about moving on to the mines. Rogers said he was going

to start next day, and in answer to exclamations of surprise that he

should start off alone, he said that some fellows camped a little way

down the river were going to start and he had made arrangements to go

with them, as the Bennett party would not go yet for a week. In the

morning he shook hands and bade us good-bye and good luck, and started

off down the river bank, lost to us, as it proved, for many years.

The next day as we were all sitting on the ground I felt a sort of

moving of the earth under me and heard a rumbling sound that seemed very

queer. It seemed there was a motion also to the trees around us. We all

started and looked a little frightened, and Skinner said he believed it

was an earthquake, for he said he could see the motion in a sort of

wave. It was gone in half a minute. Moody said:--"How do you like

California now?" I said I thought this part of it was a pretty good

place for there was plenty of wood, water and grass, and that was better

than we had seen in some places.

He then went on to say that he had heard Mr. Bennett's story of their

sufferings and narrow escape from death, and it was the most wonderful

story he had ever heard. He said the idea of Mrs. Bennett walking over

such a country for twenty-two days was almost beyond belief, for he

would not have thought her able to walk one-third the distance. He never

knew before how much women could do when they were called to do it, and

they proved in emergencies to be as tough as any body. He said if he

ever got back home he should move to give them all the rights and

privileges of men for sure.

One day I mounted my mule for a ride to the eastern foothills, and sat

down on a little incline and overlooked the valley, a beautiful

landscape, while my mule cropped the rich grasses in a circle described

by the rope which confined him. I was always a great admirer of nature,

and as I sat there alone I could see miles on miles of mammoth mustard

waving in the strong breeze which came down over the San Francisco Bay

just visible to the northward, and on the mountain summits to the west

could see tall timber reaching up into the deep blue of the sky. It was

a real contented comfort to be thus in the midst of luxuriance and

beauty, and I enjoyed it, coming as it did at the end of the long and

dreary road I had been traveling for the past twelve months. Up the

Platte; across the Rockies; down the Green River cañons in my canoe;

across the mountains to Salt Lake; out over the "Rim of the Basin," and

across the desert, guided only by the fact that we knew the Pacific

Ocean was to the west of us, and choosing our road as best we could in

view of the lofty, snow-clad, impassible mountains; seeing thirteen of

our comrades lie down never to rise again, and, when hope and strength

were almost gone, to suddenly come out into a fertile region on the

seventh of March, 1850. How I wished the fellows who slept in Death

Valley could have seen this view. The change from all that barrenness

and desolation to this beautiful, fertile country, covered with wild

flowers and luxuriant live oaks, was as strong a contrast as one could

imagine a sudden coming from purgatory to paradise in the space of a

single hour.

I waked up from my dreamy thoughts, mounted my mule and rode to camp. As

I rode along the nimble ground squirrel, with his keen black eye, would

climb to the top of the high mustard stalks to get a better view and,

suspicious of an enemy within his almost undisputed territory, disappear

in a wink to his safe underground fortress. Fat cattle and horses would

appear before me a moment, and then, with a wild look and high heads,

dash through the tall mustard out of sight.

Next day my trip was toward the western hills, and before I came to them

was confronted with an extensive stretch of chaparral brush, absolutely

impenetrable, which I must go around or stop my progress in this

direction. These thickets were a regular paradise for grizzly bears, for

within the protection of this matted and thorny growth he is as safe as

is the soldier in the rocky fort of Gibraltar. I soon found a way around

the brush and rose high enough so that a backward look over the valley

was charming, quite as much so as the eastern side. I wandered over the

grassy hills covered with great scattering oaks, and came to a grove of

mammoth trees, six feet or more in diameter, with tops reaching two

hundred or three hundred feet toward the blue sky. They seemed to me to

be a kind of cedar, and were far larger and taller than any trees I had

ever seen in the forests of Vermont, Michigan or Wisconsin, and in my

long journey from the East the route had been principally through a

country devoid of good timber. A stranger in a strange land, everything

was new and wonderful. After satisfying my inquiring mind I returned to

camp again, and soon learned that my newly discovered trees were the

famous redwoods, so greatly prized for their valuable qualities.

Taking the most direct course to camp I came, when within two or three

miles of San Jose, to a large extent of willows so thick, and so thickly

woven together with wild blackberry vines, wild roses and other thorny

plants, that it appeared at first as if I never could get through. But I

found a winding trail made by the cattle through the bushes and mustard,

and this I followed, being nearly scared occasionally by some wild

steers as they rushed off through the thickets. I got through safely,

though it would have been difficult to escape a wild, enraged steer, or

a grizzly had I met him face to face even with a rifle in hand. I could

see nowhere but by looking straight up, for the willows were in places

fifty feet high and a foot in diameter. The willows where I came from

were mere bushes, and these astonished me. This bit of brush is still

locally known as "The Willows," but the trees are all gone, and the

ground thickly covered with orchards and fine residences, the land

selling at from one thousand to two thousand dollars per acre.

The sun rose without a cloud, and a little later the sea breeze from the

bay blew gently over the valley, making the climate perfectly delightful

in its temperate coolness, a true paradise on earth it seemed to me, if

I was able to judge or set a value upon so beautiful a spot; and surely

I had seen all sorts, good and poor, desert and valley, mountain and

plain.

But I was poor in purse, and resolved I would seek first the gold mines

and secure gold enough to buy a piece of this valley afterward.

When I had seen what was to be seen about San Jose I had a talk with my

friends and found that Mr. Bennett favored going on to the mines at once

and that Moody and Skinner thought they would remain a little while at

least.

I went along in company with Bennett, and when we got a little way from

San Jose, on the road to the Mission, the road seemed walled in on both

sides with growing mustard ten or twelve feet high and all in blossom.

How so much mustard could grow, and grow so large, I could not

understand. I had seen a few plants in the gardens or fields which

people used for greens, and here seemed to be enough to feed the nation,

if they liked mustard greens.

The second day out we passed the big church at Mission San Jose and soon

left the valley and turned into the mountains and when part way over we

came to a stream which we followed up and came out into Livermore

valley, where we found a road to follow. Houses were scarce, and we

camped a mile or so before we got to the Livermore ranch buildings.

There was very little sign of life about the place, and we soon went out

of the valley and into the mountains again.

The first sign of settlement we saw when part way through the mountains

was a stone corral, but no house or other improvements. The next place

was a small house made of willow poles set in the ground and plastered

over with mud. This rejoiced in the name of "Mountain House." This

wayside inn looked like a horse thief's glory; only one or two men, a

quarter of an elk hanging on a pole, and no accommodations for man or

beast. There was very little water, nothing to sell as well as nothing

wanted. On the summits of the mountains as we passed through we saw,

standing like guards, many large buck elks.

It was now fifteen miles to the San Joaquin river, and a level plain lay

before us. When our road turned into the river bottom we found the water

too deep to get through safely, so we concluded to go on and try to find

some place where we could cross. On our way droves of antelopes could be

seen frolicking over the broad plains, while in the distance were herds

of elk winding their way from the mountains towards the river for water.

When far away their horns were the first things visible, and they much

resembled the dry tops of dead pine trees, but a nearer view showed them

to us as the proud monarchs of the plain.

When we came up opposite the mouth of the Merced river we concluded to

try again to cross. The river here, as below, was out of its banks, and

the overflowed part was quite wide which we had to pass through before

we could reach the river proper.

I waded in ahead of the team and sounded the depth of the river so as

not to get in too deep water, and avoid if possible such accidents as

might otherwise occur. Sometimes the water was up to the wagon bed and

it looked a little doubtful of our getting through in safety, but we

made it at last.

We found a narrow strip of dry land along the river bank. A town was on

the east side of the San Joaquin. river, just below where the Merced

river came in. I think this place was called Merced City. This so-called

city contained but one residence, a tent occupied by the ferryman. We

crossed the sluggish stream and for the privilege paid the ferryman, ten

dollars for toll. The road was not much used and the ferry business

seemed lonesome.

Here we camped for the night. The mosquitoes soon found us, and they

were all very hungry and had good teeth. They annoyed me so that I moved

my lodgings to the ferryboat, but here they quickly found me and

troubled me all night. These insects were the first I had seen since I

left the lower Platte river, and I thought them as bad as on the

Mississippi.

From here the road led up the Merced river near the bottom, and as we

came near groves of willows, big, stately elk would start out and trot

off proudly into the open plains to avoid danger. These proud,

big-horned monarchs of the plains could be seen in bunches scattered

over the broad meadows, as well as an equal amount of antelope. They all

seemed to fear us, which was wise on their part, and kept out of rifle

shot. As were not starving as we were once, I did not follow them out on

the open plain, for I thought I could get meat when we were more in

need.

We followed up the river bottom and saw not a single house until we

reached the road leading from Stockton to the Mariposa mines, where we

found a ferry and a small store. Here we learned that some men were

mining a few miles up the river, so we drove on until we found a little

work being done in a dry gulch near the river bank. We made our camp at

this spot and had plenty of wood, water and grass. We found there was

something to be learned in the art of gold mining. We had no tools nor

money, and had never seen a speck of native gold and did not know how to

separate it from the dirt nor where to search for it. We were poor,

ignorant emigrants. There were two or three men camped here. One of them

was more social than the rest and we soon got acquainted. His name was

Williams, from Missouri. He came down to the river with a pan of dirt,

and seeing me in my ignorance trying to wash some as well, he took the

pan from me and very kindly showed me how to work so as to let the dirt

go and save the gold. When he had the pan finished a few small, bright

scales remained. These to me were curious little follows and I examined

them closely and concluded there was a vast difference between gold and

lead mining. Williams became more friendly and we told him something

about our journey across the plains, and he seemed to think that we

deserved a good claim. He went to a dry gulch where a Spaniard was

working and told him that all of California, now that the war was over,

belonged to Americans and he must leave. Williams had his gun in his

hand and war might follow, so Mr. Spaniard left and his claim was

presented to Bennett and myself.

Williams had been twice to Santa Fe from Missouri and had learned the

Spanish language and could swear at them by note if necessary. We now

began work almost without tools, but our ground we had to work was quite

shallow and Williams helped us out by loaning us some of his tools at

times. We soon succeeded in scratching together some of the yellow stuff

and I went down to the store and bought a pan for five dollars, a shovel

for ten dollars, and a poor pick cost me ten dollars more. This took

about two ounces of my money.

We now worked harder than ever for about three weeks, but we could not

save much and pay such high prices as were charged. Our gulch claim was

soon worked out, and as the river had fallen some we tried the bar, but

we could only make four or five dollars a day, and the gold was very

fine and hard to save. We bought a hind quarter of an elk and hung it up

in a tree and it kept fresh till all of it was eaten.

Some others came and took up claims on the bar, and as the prospects

were not as good as was wished, three of us concluded to go and try to

find a better place. The next day was Sunday and all lay in bed late.

Before I rose I felt something crawling on my breast, and when I looked

I found it to be an insect, slow in motion, resembling a louse, but

larger. He was a new emigrant to me and I wondered what he was. I now

took off my pants and found many of his kind in the seams. I murdered

all I could find, and when I got up I told Williams what I had found. He

said they hurt nobody and were called _piojos_, more commonly known as

body lice.

We started on our prospecting tour and went northeast to a place now

called Big Oak Flat. This was at the head of a small stream and there

were several small gulches that emptied into it that paid well. This

flat was all taken up and a ditch was cut through to drain it. A ship

load of gold was expected to be found when it was worked. A small town

of tents had been pitched on both sides of the flat. One side was

occupied by gamblers, and many games were constantly carried on and were

well patronized. On the opposite side of the flat were many small tents,

and around on the hillside some mules and jacks were feeding. One of the

little long-eared donkeys came down among the tents and went in one and

commenced eating flour from the sack. The owner of the flour ran to the

tent, took his shot gun and fired a load of buck-shot into the donkey's

hams. The animal reeled and seemed shot fatally. I now looked for a

battle to commence, but the parties were more reasonable. The price of

the animal was fully paid, and no blood shed as I expected there surely

would be.

We now prospected further east, but nothing good enough was found. The

place we looked over was where the town of Garota now stands. We

concluded to go back, have a council, and go somewhere else. On our way

back we stopped to get dinner. While I was around the fire, barefooted,

I felt something crawl up my instep, and it proved to be another of

those _piojos_ of Williams'. I now thought these torments must be all

over this country.

Gold dust was used to transact all business; all the coin was in the

hands of the gentlemen gamblers. Most miners found it necessary to have

a small pair of scales in the breast pocket to weigh the dust so as not

to have to trust some one who carried lead weights and often got more

than his just dues. Gold dust was valued at sixteen dollars an ounce.

We now thought it would be best for two of us to take our mules and go

down in the small hills and try to get some elk meat to take with us, as

our route would be mostly through the unsettled part of the country, and

no provisions could likely be procured, so Mr. Bradford of New Orleans

and myself took our mules and went down where the hills were low and the

game plenty. We camped in a low ravine, staked out our mules and staid

all night without a fire, believing that when we woke in the early

morning some of the many herd of elk then in sight would be near us at

daylight, and we could easily kill all we wanted without leaving camp;

but we were disappointed. Hundreds of the big-horned fellows were in

sight, but none in rifle shot, and there was no chance for us to get any

nearer to them. We got near a couple of antelope and Mr. Bradford, who

was a brag shot and had the best gun, proposed to kill them as we stood.

The larger of the two was on his side and much nearer than the smaller

one, but we fired together just as we stood. Bradford's antelope ran off

unhurt: mine fell dead in its tracks. Bradford bragged no more about his

fine gun and superior marksmanship.

We went back to camp with the little we had killed and soon got ready to

start north. Bennett was to go with his team to Sacramento and wait

there until he heard from us.

Four of us, mounted on mules, now started on our journey along the

foothills without a road. We struck the Tuolumne river at a ferry. The

stream was high and rapid and could not be forded, so we had to

patronize the ferryman, and give him half an ounce apiece. We thought

such charges on poor and almost penniless emigrants were unjust.

The point we were seeking to reach was a new discovery called Gold Lake

on Feather River, where many rich gulches that emptied into it had been

worked, and the lake was believed to have at least a ship load of gold

in it. It was located high in the mountains and could be easily drained

and a fortune soon obtained if we got there in time and said nothing to

anyone we might meet on the road. We might succeed in getting a claim

before they were all taken up. We followed along the foothills without a

road, and when we came to the Stanislaus River we had to patronize a

ferry and pay half an ounce each again. We thought their scale weights

were rather heavy and their ferrymen well paid.

We continued along the foothills without any trail until we struck the

road from Sacramento to Hangtown. This sounded like a bad name for a

good village, but we found it was fittingly named after some ugly devils

who were hanged there. The first house that we came to on this road was

the Mormon Tavern. Here were some men playing cards for money, and two

boys, twelve or fourteen years old, playing poker for the same and

trying in every way to ape the older gamblers and bet their money as

freely and swear as loud as the old sports. All I saw was new and

strange to me and became indelibly fixed on my mind. I had never before

seen such wicked boys, and the men paid no attention to these fast

American boys. I began to wonder if all the people in California were

like these, bad and wicked.

Here we learned that Gold Lake was not as rich as reported, so we

concluded to take the road and go to Coloma, the place where gold was

first found on the American River.

We camped at Coloma all night. Mr. Bradford got his mule shod and paid

sixteen dollars, or in the mining phrase, an ounce of gold dust. I

visited the small town and found that the only lively business place in

it was a large gambling house, and I saw money (gold dust) liberally

used--sometimes hundreds of dollars bet on a single card. When a few

hundred or thousand were lost more would be brought on. The purse would

be set in the center of the table and the owners would take perhaps

twenty silver dollars or checks, and when they were lost the deposited

purse would be handed to the barkeeper, the amount weighed out and the

purse returned. When the purse was empty a friend of the better would

bring another, and so the game went on almost in silence. The game

called Monte seemed to be the favorite. How long these sacks of gold

lasted or who eventually got the whole I never knew. This was a new

country with new people, and many seemed to be engaged in a business

that was new, strange and hazardous. The final result of all this was

what puzzled me.

We now followed the road up the mountain to Georgetown. Here was a small

village on the summit of the ridge and it seemed to be in a prosperous

mining section. After some inquiry about a good place to work we

concluded to go down a couple of miles northeast of town on Cañon creek

and go to work if vacant ground could be found. There was a piece of

creek bottom here that had not been much worked. Georgia Flat above had

been worked and paid well, and the Illinois and Oregon cañons that

emptied into the bottom here were rich, so we concluded to locate in the

bottom. Claims here in the flat were only fifteen feet square. I located

one and my notice told others that I would go to work on it as soon my

partner came from Sacramento. I sent my partner, Mr. Bennett a note

telling him to come up.

While waiting for Mr. Bennett I took my pan and butcher knife and went

into a dry gulch out of sight of the other campers and began work. As

the ground was mostly bare bed rock by scratching around I succeeded in

getting three or four pans of dirt a day. The few days I had to wait for

Bennett I made eight dollars a day until my claim was worked out.

I then went to Georgetown to meet Bennett and family, and soon after my

arrival they came well and safe. All of them, even to the faithful camp

dog, Cuff, were glad to see me. Old Cuff followed me all around town,

but when we got ready to start for camp the dog was gone and could not

be found. Some one had hidden him away knowing he could not be gotten

any other way, for six ounces would not have bought him. We had raised

him in Wisconsin, made him a good deer dog, and with us he had crossed

the dry and sandy deserts. He had been a great protection to Bennett's

children on the plains, and company for us all.

We now located claims on the creek bottom. The channel of the creek was

claimed by Holman of Alabama and the Helms brothers of Missouri. They

had turned the stream into a ditch in order to work the bed of the

stream, believing that their claims had all the gold in them. Our claims

joined theirs.

Mr. W.M. Stockton, who left his family in Los Angeles, came with Mr.

Bennett and went to work with us. As everything here was very high we

concluded to let Mr. Stockton take the team and go to Sacramento for

provisions for our own use. Flour and meat were each fifty cents a

pound, potatoes twenty-five cents a pound and onions one dollar and

twenty-five cents each. Onions and potatoes eaten raw were considered

very necessary to prevent and cure scurvy, which was quite a common

complaint. Whiskey, if not watered, cost one dollar a drink.

Our claims were about ten feet deep. The bottom was wet and a pump

needed, so we went to a whip saw-mill and got four narrow strips one by

three and one by five and twelve feet long, paying for them by weight,

the price being twelve cents a pound. Out of these strips we made a good

pump by fixing a valve at the end and nailing a piece of green rawhide

on a pole, which answered for a plunger, and with the pump set at

forty-five degrees it worked easily and well. One man could easily keep

the water out and we made fair wages.

In the creek bottom Mr. Bush of Missouri had a saloon. The building was

made mainly of brush, with a split piece for a counter, and another one

for a shelf for his whiskey keg, a box of cigars, a few decks of cards

and half a dozen glasses, which made up the entire stock of trade for

the shop. In front was a table made of two puncheons with a blanket

thrown over all, and a few rough seats around. There was no roof except

the brush, and through the dry season none was needed except for shade.

There was also at this place five brothers by the name of Helms, also

from Missouri. Their names were Jim, Davenport, Wade, Chet and Daunt.

These men, with Mr. Holman, owned the bed of the stream, and their

ground proved to be quite wet and disagreeable to work. Mr. Holman could

not well stand to work in the cold water, so he asked the privilege of

putting in a hired man in his place, which was agreed to. He then took

up a claim for himself outside of the other claims, and this proved to

be on higher bed rock and dry, and paid even better than the low claims

where the Helms brothers were at work. This was not what the Helms boys

considered exactly fair, as Holman seemed to be getting rich the

fastest, and as there was no law to govern them they held a free country

court of their own, and decided the case to suit themselves; so they

ordered Holman to come back and do his own work. No fault was found with

the hired man but what he did his work well enough, but they were

jealous and would not be bound by their agreement.

But this decision did not satisfy all parties, and it was agreed to

submit the case to three men, and I was chosen one of them. We held

Court on the ground and heard both sides of the story, after which we

retired to the shade of a bunch of willows to hold council over the

matter with the result that we soon came to a decision in favor of Mr.

Holman. About this time one of the Helms boys began to quarrel with

Holman and grew terribly mad, swearing all kinds of vengeance, and

making the cañon ring with the loudest kind of Missouri oaths. Finally

he picked up a rock to kill Holman, but the latter was quick with his

pistol, a single shot duelling piece, and as they were not more than ten

feet apart Helms would have had a hole in him large enough for daylight

to shine through if the pistol had not missed fire. We stopped the

quarrel and made known our decision, whereupon Helms went off muttering

vengeance.

We now went back to our work again at our claims, mine being between

Helms' cabin and the saloon. Holman stopped to talk a little while on my

claim, while I was down below at work, and soon Helms came back again in

a terrible rage, stopping on the opposite side of the hole from Holman,

swearing long and loud, and flourishing a big pistol with which he

threatened to blow Holman into purgatory. He was so much enraged that he

fairly frothed at the mouth like a rabid dog. The men were about twenty

feet apart, and I at the bottom of the hole ten feet below, but exactly

between them. It seemed to me that I was in some little danger for Helms

had his big pistol at full cock, and as it pointed at me quite as often

as it did at anybody, I expect I dodged around a little to keep out of

range. Helms was terribly nervous, and trembled as he cursed, but Holman

was cool and drew his weapon deliberately, daring Helms to raise his

hand or he would kill him on the instant. Helms now began to back off,

but carefully kept his eye on Holman and continued his abuse as he went

on to the saloon to get something to replenish his courage. Holman,

during the whole affair, talked very calmly and put considerable

emphasis into his words when he dared Helms to make a hostile motion. He

was a true Alabamian and could be neither scared nor driven. He soon

sold out, however, and went to a more congenial camp for he said these

people were cowardly enough to waylay and kill him unawares.

Soon after this unpleasantness a man and wife who lived in Georgetown

came into notice, and while the man made some money mining his wife did

a good stroke of business washing for the boys who paid her a dollar a

shirt as laundry fees. As she began to make considerable money the

bigger, if not better, half of this couple began to feel quite rich and

went off on a drunk, and when his own money was spent he went to his

wife for more, but she refused him, and he, in his drunken rage, picked

up a gun near by and shot her dead.

All of a sudden the Helms boys and others gathered at the saloon, took

drinks all around, and did a good deal of swearing, which was the

biggest portion of the proceedings of the meeting; and then they all

started off toward town, swearing and yelling as they struggled up the

steep mountain side--a pack of reckless, back-woods Missourians who

seemed to smell something bloody.

It was near night when they all came back and gathered around the saloon

again. They were all in unusual good humor as they related the

adventures of the afternoon, and bragged of their bravery and skill in

performing the little job they had just completed, which consisted in

taking the murderer out to the first convenient oak tree, and with the

assistance of some sailors in handling the ropes, hoisting the fellow

from the ground with a noose around his neck, and to the "Heave, yo

heave" of the sailor boys, pulling the rope that had been passed over an

elevated limb. They watched the suspended body till the last spark of

life went out, and then went back to town leaving the corpse hanging for

somebody else to cut down and bury. They whooped and yelled at the top

of their voices as they came down along the mountain trail, and at the

saloon they related to the crowd that had gathered there how they had

helped to hang the ---- who had killed his wife. They said justice must

be done if there was no law, and that no man could kill a woman and live

in California. They imagined they were very important individuals, and

veritable lords of Creation.

These miners, many of them, were inveterate gamblers and played every

night till near day-light, with no roof over them, and their only

clothes a woolen shirt and overalls which must have been a little scanty

in the cool nights which settled down over the mountain camp; but they

bore it all in their great desire for card playing.

Near by there were three men who worked and slept together, every night

dividing the dust which each put into a purse at the head of his bed.

One day the news came to the saloon that one of the purses had been

stolen. The Helms boys talked it over and concluded that as one of the

men had gone to town, he might know something about the lost dust; so

they went to town and there, after a little search, found their man in a

gambling house. After a little while they invited him to return to camp

with them, and all started together down the mountain; but when about

half way down they halted suddenly under an oak tree and accused their

man of knowing where his partner's money was. This he strongly denied,

and was very positive in his denial till he felt the surprise of a rope

around his neck, with the end over a limb, and beginning to haul pretty

taut in a direction that would soon elevate his body from the ground,

when he weakened at their earnestness and asked them to hold on a

minute. As the rope slackened he owned up he had the dust and would give

it up if they would not send the news to his folks in Missouri. This was

agreed to and the thief was advised to leave at once for some distant

camp, or they might yet expose him. He was not seen afterward.

The boys bragged a good deal of their detective ability after this, and

said that a little hanging would make a ---- thief tell the truth even

if it did not make an honest man of him, and that a thief would be lucky

if he got through with them and saved his life. Their law was "Hanging

for stealing."

The Helms brothers were said to be from western Missouri, and in early

days were somewhat of the border ruffian order, and of course preferred

to live on the frontier rather than in any well regulated society. As

the country became settled and improved around them they moved on. A

school house was an indication that the country was getting too far

advanced for them.

They crossed the plains in 1849 and began mining operations near

Georgetown in Placer county. It was well known that they were foremost

in all gambling, and in taking a hand in any excitement that came up,

and as a better class of miners came in they moved on, keeping ahead

with the prospectors, and just out of reach of law and order. If anyone

else committed a crime they were always quite eager to be on the

vigilance committee, and were remarkably happy when punishing a

wrong-doer. When any of their number was suspected it was generally the

case that they moved quickly on and so escaped. It was reported,

however, that one of their number was in the hands of the vigilance

committee and hanged in Montana.

After a time, it is said, they went down to southern California and

settled on the border of the Colorado desert, about seventy-five miles

east of San Diego, in a mountainous and desert region. Here they found a

small tribe of Indians, and by each marrying a squaw they secured rights

equal to any of them in the occupation of the land. This was considered

pretty sharp practice, but it suited them and they became big chiefs and

midecine men, and numerous dusky descendants grew up around them.

It is said that their property consists of extensive pasture lands on

which they raise cattle, and that they always go well armed with pistol,

rifle and riata. It is said that some of the Indians undertook to claim

that the Helms brothers were intruders, but that in some mysterious way

accidents happened to most of them and they were left without any

serious opposition.

They are very hospitable and entertaining to people who visit them,

provided they do not know too much about the men or their former deeds

or history. In this case ignorance is bliss and it is folly, if not

dangerous, to be too wise. They have made no improvements, but live in

about the same style as the Indians and about on a level with them

morally and intellectually.

There may be those who know them well, but the writer only knows them by

hearsay and introduces them as a certain type of character found in the

early days.

As I was now about barefoot I went to town to look for boots or shoes.

There were no shoes, and a pair of the cheapest boots I found hanging at

the door were priced to me at two ounces. This seemed a wonderful sum

for a pair of coarse cow-hide boots that would sell in the state for two

dollars and fifty cents; but I had to buy them at the price or go

barefoot.

While rambling around town I went into a round tent used as a gambling

saloon. The occupants were mostly men, and one or two nice appearing

ladies, but perhaps of doubtful reputation. The men were of all

classes--lawyer, doctors, preachers and such others as wanted to make

money without work. The miners, especially sailors, were eager to try to

beat the games. While I was here the table was only occupied by a sailor

lying upon it and covered with a green blanket. All at once the fellow

noticed a large _piojo_ walking slowly across the table, and drawing his

sheath knife made a desperate stab at him, saying "You kind of a deck

hand can't play at this game."

Our claims, by this time were nearly worked out, and I thought that I

had upward of two thousand dollars in gold, and the pile looked pretty

big to me. It seemed to me that these mines were very shallow and would

soon be worked out, at least in a year or two. I could not see that the

land would be good for much for farming when no irrigation could be

easily got, and the Spanish people seemed to own all the best land as

well as the water; so that a poor fellow like myself would never get

rich at farming here.

Seeing the matter in this light I thought it would be best to take my

money and go back to Wisconsin where government land was good and

plenty, and with even my little pile I could soon be master of a good

farm in a healthy country, and I would there be rich enough. Thus

reasoning I decided to return to Wisconsin, for I could not see how a

man could ever be a successful farmer in a country where there were only

two seasons, one wet and the other long and dry.

I went out and hunted up my mule which I had turned out to pasture for

herself, and found her entirely alone. After a little coaxing I caught

her and brought her with me to camp, where I offered her for sale. She

was sleek and fat and looked so well that Helms said that if I could

beat him shooting he would buy both mule and gun; so three or four of us

tried our skill. My opponents boasted a good deal of their superior

marksmanship, but on the trial, which began at short range, I beat them

all pretty badly. Helms was as good as his word and offered me twelve

ounces for my gun and mule, which I took. I thought a great deal of my

fat little one-eyed mule, and I thought then, as I think now, how well

she did her part on the fearful road to and from Death Valley.

Helms was now going to the valley to have a winter's hunt, for here the

snow would fall four feet deep and no mining work could be done till

spring, when he would return and work his claim again.

I now had all in my pocket, and when I got ready to go Mrs. Bennett was

much affected at knowing that I would now leave them, perhaps never to

return to them again. She clasped me in her arms, embraced me as she

would her own son, and said "Good luck to you--God bless you, for I know

that you saved all our lives. I don't suppose you will ever come back,

but we may come back to Wisconsin sometime and we will try to find a

better road than the one we came over. Give my best regards to all who

inquire after us." She shook my hand again and again with earnest

pressure, and cried and sobbed bitterly. As I climbed the mountain she

stood and watched me so long as I was in sight, and with her

handkerchief waved a final adieu. I was myself much affected at this

parting, for with Mr. and Mrs. Bennett had been really a home to me; she

had been to me as a mother, and it was like leaving a home fireside to

go away from them. I was now starting out among strangers, and those I

should meet might be the same good friends as those whom I had left

behind. Mr. Bennett and I had for many years been hunting companions; I

had lived at his house in the East, and we never disagreed but had

always been good friends. I had now a traveling companion whose home was

in Iowa Co., Wis., where I had lived for several years, and we went

along together by way of Greenwood where there was a small mining town

built of tents, many of which were used as gambling places. These places

were occupied by gentlemen, some of whom wore white shirts to

distinguish them, I presume, from the common herd of miners from whom

they won their dust.

We crossed the American River at Salmon Falls, and walked thence on to

Sacramento City, which was the largest town we had seen on the coast.

The houses were all small wooden ones, but business seemed to be brisk,

and whiskey shops and gambling houses plenty. One game played with three

cards, called three card Monte, was played openly on the streets, with

goods boxes for tables. Every one who came along was urged to bet by the

dealer who would lay out his cards face up so all could see them, then

turn them over and shuffle them and say "I'll bet six ounces that no one

can put his finger on the queen." I watched this a while and saw that

the dealer won much oftener than he lost, and it seemed to be a simple

and easy way to make a living when money was plenty.

We strolled around town looking at the sights, and the different

business places, the most lively of which had plenty of music inside,

lots of tables with plenty of money on them, and many questionable lady

occupants. These business places were liberally patronized and every

department flourishing, especially the bar. Oaths and vulgar language

were the favorite style of speech, and very many of the people had all

the whiskey down them that they could conveniently carry.

We got through the town safely and at the river we found a steamboat

bound for San Francisco and the fare was two ounces. The runners were

calling loudly for passengers, and we were told we could never make the

trip any cheaper for they had received a telegram from below saying that

no boat would come up again for two days. I said to him "I can't see

your telegram. Where is it?" At this he turned and left us. He had

thought, no doubt, that miners were green enough to believe anything. In

the course of an hour the smoke of a steamer was seen down the river,

and this beat out the runners who now offered passage for half an ounce.

At this time there was no telegraph and the delay was a lucky one for

us. We took passage and went to San Francisco that night, where we put

up at a cheap tavern near where the Custom House now stands.

Here we learned that we would have to wait two days before a ship would

sail for Panama, and during this time we surveyed the town from the

hill-tops and walked all over the principal streets. It was really a

small, poorly built, dirty looking place, with few wharves, poor, cheap

hotels, and very rough inhabitants. There were lots of gambling houses

full of tables holding money, and the rooms filled with pretty rough

looking people, except the card dealers, most of whom wore white shirts,

and a few sported plug hats. There was also a "right smart sprinkling"

of ladies present who were well dressed and adorned with rich jewelry,

and their position seemed to be that of paying teller at the gambling

tables.

The buildings seemed to be rather cheap, although material was very

expensive, as well as labor, mechanics of all sorts getting as much as

ten or twelve dollars per day for work. Coin seemed to be scarce, and a

great deal of the money needed on the gambling tables was represented by

iron washers, each of which represented an ounce of gold.

I noticed some places in the streets where it was muddy and a narrow

walk had been made out of boxes of tobacco, and sometimes even bacon was

used for the same purpose. Transportation from the city to the mines was

very slow and made by schooner. Ship loads of merchandise had arrived

and been unloaded, and the sailors having run away to the mines,

everything except whiskey and cards was neglected. Whiskey sold at this

place for fifty cents a drink.

A man at the tavern where we stopped tried hard to sell me a fifty-vara

lot there in the edge of the mud (near where the Custom House now

stands) for six hundred dollars. I thought this a pretty high price and

besides such a lot was no use to me, for I had never lived in town and

could not so easily see the uses to which such property could be put. It

seemed very doubtful to me that this place would ever be much larger or

amount to much, for it evidently depended on the mines for a support,

and these were so shallow that it looked as if they would be worked out

in a short time and the country and town both be deserted. And I was not

alone in thinking that the country would soon be deserted, for

accustomed as we all had been to a showery summer, these dry seasons

would seem entirely to prevent extensive farming. Some cursed the

country and said they were on their way to "good old Missouri, God's own

country." Hearing so much I concluded it would be wise not to invest,

but to get me back to Wisconsin again.

The steamer we took passage in was the Northerner, advertised to sail on

the twenty-ninth day of November, 1850. The cabin room was all engaged,

and they charged us nine ounces for steerage passage; but I did not care

as much about their good rooms and clean sheets as I would have done at

one time, for I had been a long time without either and did not care to

pay the difference. When we were at the ship's office we had to take our

turns to get tickets. One man weighed out the dust, and another filled

out certificates. When the callers began to get a little scarce I looked

under the counter where I saw a whole panful of dust to which they added

mine to make the pile a little higher. They gave out no berths with

these tickets, but such little things as that did not trouble us in the

least. It was far better fare than we used to have in and about Death

Valley, and we thought we could live through anything that promised

better than the desert.

The passenger list footed up four hundred and forty, and when all got on

board, at about ten o'clock in the morning, there was hardly room for

all to stand up comfortably. It seemed to me to be a very much

over-crowded boat in which to put to sea, but we floated out into the

current, with all the faces toward the shore, and hats and handkerchiefs

waving goodbye to those who had come down to see the home-goers safely

off.

As we passed out through the wonderful Golden Gate and the out going

current met the solid sea, each seemed wrestling for the mastery, and

the waves beat and dashed themselves into foam all around us, while the

spray came over the bows quite lively, frightening some who did not

expect such treatment. When we had passed this scene of watery commotion

and got out into the deeper water, the sea smoothed down a great deal;

but sea-sickness began to claim its victims, at first a few, then more

and more, till the greater part were quite badly affected. I had a touch

of it myself, but managed to keep my feet by bracing out pretty wide,

and hugging everything I could get hold of that seemed to offer a steady

support, and I did not lie down until after I had thrown my breakfast

overboard.

By the time dark came nearly every one was on his back, mostly on deck,

and no one asleep. All were retching and moaning bitterly. Some who had

a few hours before cursed California now cursed the sea, and declared

that if they could induce the Captain to turn about and put them back on

shore again, they would rather creep on their hands and knees clear back

to old Missouri over rocks and sand, than to ride any further on such a

miserable old boat as this one was.

Next morning the decks looked pretty filthy, and about all the food the

passengers had eaten was now spread about the decks in a half digested

condition. Most of the passengers were very sick. With the early

daylight the sailors coupled the hose to the big steam pump, and began

the work of washing and scrubbing off the decks, and though many begged

hard to be left alone as they were, with all the filth, a good flood of

salt water was the only answer they received to their pleading, and they

were compelled to move, for the sailors said they could not change their

orders without the Captain, and he would not be out of bed till ten

o'clock or later. So the cursing and swearing went for naught, and the

decks were clean again. There were no deaths to report, but there were

very few to do duty at the tables in eating the food prepared for them.

After a few days the tables filled up again, and now it took them so

long to eat that there had to be an order for only two meals a day or

there would not have been a chance for all to get something. They were

terribly hungry now, and every one seemed to try his best to take in

provisions enough to last him for at least twelve hours.

As the fellows began to get their sea legs on, they began to talk as if

they were still in California, and could easily manage any little boat

like this, and could run things as they did when they crossed the

plains, where no sheriff, court or judge had anything to say about

matters, and all law was left behind. They began to act as if they were

lords over all they could see, and as many of them were from the

Southern states, they seemed to take an especial pride in boasting of

how they did as they pleased, about like the Helms brothers. They talked

as if they could run the world, or the universe even, themselves without

assistance.

One morning at breakfast, when the table was full and the waiters

scarce, some of these fellows swore and talked pretty rough, and as a

waiter was passing a blue-blood from New Orleans rose in his seat and

called for sugar, holding the empty bowl in his hand, but the waiter

passed on and paid no attention, and when a mulatto waiter came along

behind him the angry man damned him the worst he could, ordering him to

bring a bowl of sugar, quick. This waiter did not stop and the Louisiana

man threw the bowl at the waiter's head, but missed it, and the bowl

went crashing against the side of the ship. I expected surely the

Captain and his men would come and put the unruly fellow in irons, and

there might be a fight or a riot, so I cut my meal short and went on

deck about as soon as I could do so, thinking that would be a safer

place. But the Captain seemed to know about how to manage such fellows,

and never left his stateroom, which I think was a wise move. The darky

did not make his appearance at table afterwards, and the man who threw

the bowl said that colored folks had to mind a gentleman when he spoke

to them, or fare worse.

The Captain now got out his passenger list, and we all had to pass

through a narrow space near the wheel-house and every one answer to his

name and show his ticket. This made work for about one day. Some

stowaways were found and put down into the hole to heave coal. One day

the Captain and mate were out taking an observation on the sun when a

young Missourian stepped up to see what was being done, and said to the

Captain:--"Captain, don't you think I could learn how to do that kind of

business?" The Captain took the young man's hand and looked at his nails

which were very rough and dirty and said:--"No my lad; boys with such

finger nails can't learn navigation." This made a big laugh at the brave

lubber's expense.

Many of the sea-sick ones did not get up so soon, and some died of that,

or something else, and their bodies were sewed up in blankets with a

bushel of coal at their feet to sink them, and thrown overboard. The

bodies were laid out on a plank at the ship's side, the Captain would

read a very brief service, and the sailors would, at the appropriate

time, raise the end of the plank so that the body slid off and went down

out of sight in a moment.

In due time we went into the harbor of Acapulco for water and coal. Here

nearly every one went on shore, and as there was no wharf for the vessel

to lie to, the native canoes had many passengers at a dollar apiece for

passage money. Out back of town there was a small stream of clear water

which was warm and nice to bathe in, and some places three or four feet

deep, so that a great many stripped off for a good wash which was said

to be very healthful in this climate. Many native women were on hand

with soap and towels ready to give any one a good scrubbing for _dos

reales_, (twenty-five cents) and those who employed them said they did a

good, satisfactory job.

As I returned to town the streets seemed to be deserted, and I saw one

man come out on an adjoining street, and after running a few steps, fall

down on his face. Hearing the report of a gun at the same time, I

hurried on to get out of danger, but I afterward learned that the man

was a travelling gambler who had come across the country from Mexico,

and that he was killed as he fell. No one seemed to care for him.

Near the beach were some large trees, and under them dancing was going

on to the music of the guitar. There were plenty of pretty Spanish girls

for partners, and these and our boys made up an interesting party. The

girls did not seem at all bashful or afraid of the boys, and though they

could not talk together very much they got along with the sign language,

and the ladies seemed very fond of the _Americanos_.

There was a fort here, a regular moss-backed old concern, and the

soldiers were bare footed and did not need much clothing.

The cattle that were taken on board here were made to swim out to the

ship, and then, with a rope around their horns, hoisted on deck, a

distance of perhaps forty feet above the water. The maddened brutes were

put into a secure stall ready for the ship's butcher. The small boys

came around the ship in canoes, and begged the passengers to throw them

out a dime, and when the coin struck the water they would dive for it,

never losing a single one. One man dropped a bright bullet and the boy

who dove for it was so enraged that he called him a d----d Gringo

(Englishman.) None of these boys wore any clothes.

This town, like all Spanish towns, was composed of one-story houses,

with dry mud, fire-proof walls. The country around looked very

mountainous and barren, and comfortably warm.

After two days we were called on board, and soon set sail for sea again;

and now, as we approached the equator, it became uncomfortably warm and

an awning was put over the upper deck. All heavy clothing was laid

aside, and anyone who had any amount of money on his person was unable

to conceal it; but no one seemed to have any fear of theft, for a thief

could not conceal anything he should steal, and no one reported anything

lost. There was occasionally a dead body to be consigned to a watery

grave.

A few days out from here and we were again mustered as before to show

our tickets, which were carefully examined.

It seemed strange to me that the water was the poorest fare we had. It

was sickish tasting stuff, and so warm it would do very well for

dish-water.

There were many interesting things to see. Sometimes it would be

spouting whales; sometimes great black masses rolling on the water,

looking like a ship bottom upward, which some said were black-fish. Some

fish seemed to be at play, and would jump ten feet or more out of the

water. The flying fish would skim over the waves as the ship's wheels

seemed to frighten them; and we went through a hundred acres of

porpoises, all going the same way. The ship plowed right through them,

but none seemed to get hurt by the wheels. Perhaps they were emigrants

like ourselves in search of a better place.

It now became terribly hot, and the sun was nearly overhead at noon.

Sometimes a shark could be seen along-side, and though he seemed to make

no effort, easily kept up with the moving ship. Occasionally we saw a

sea snake navigating the ocean all by himself. I did not understand how

these fellows went to sea and lived so far from land. The flying fish

seemed to be more plentiful as we went along, and would leave the water

and scud along before us.

We had evening concerts on the forecastle, managed by the sailors. Their

songs were not sacred songs by any means, and many of them hardly fit to

be heard by delicate ears. We again had to run the gauntlet of the

narrow passage and have our tickets looked over, and this time a new

stowaway was found, and he straightway made application for a job. "Go

below, sir" was all the Captain said. Several died and had their sea

burial, and some who had been so sick all the way as not to get out of

bed, proved tough enough to stand the climate pretty well.

As we were nearing Panama the doctor posted a notice to the mast

cautioning us against eating much fruit while on shore, as it was very

dangerous when eaten to excess. We anchored some little distance from

the shore and had to land in small boats managed by the natives. I went

in one, and when the boat grounded at the beach the boatman took me on

his back and set me on shore, demanding two dollars for the job, which I

paid, and he served the whole crowd in the same way. The water here was

blood warm, and they told me the tide ran very high.

This was a strange old town to me, walled in on all sides, a small plaza

in the center with a Catholic church on one side, and the other houses

were mostly two story. On the side next to the beach was a high, thick

wall which contained cells that were used for a jail, and on top were

some dismounted cannon, long and old fashioned.

The soldiers were poor, lazy fellows, barefooted, and had very poor

looking guns. Going out and in all had to pass through a large gateway,

but they asked no questions. The streets were very narrow and dirty and

the sleeping rooms in the second story of the houses seemed to be

inhabited by cats. For bed clothes was needed only a single sheet. On

the roofs all around sat turkey buzzards, and anything that fell in the

streets that was possible for them to eat, was gobbled up very quickly.

They were as tame as chickens, and walked around as fearless and lordly

as tame turkeys. In consideration of their cleaning up the streets

without pay, they were protected by law. One of the passengers could not

resist the temptation to shoot one, and a small squad of soldiers were

soon after him, and came into a room where there were fifty of us, but

could not find their man. He would have been sent to jail if he had been

caught. We had to pay one dollar a night for beds in these rooms, and

they counted money at the rate of eight dimes to the dollar.

The old town of Panama lies a little south in the edge of the sea, and

was destroyed by an earthquake long ago I was told. To me, raised in the

north, everything was very new and strange in way of living, style of

building and kind of produce. There were donkeys, parrots and all kinds

of monkeys in plenty. Most of the women were of very dark complexion,

and not dressed very stylishly, while the younger population did not

have even a fig leaf, or anything to take its place. The adults dressed

very economically, for the days are summer days all the year round, and

the clothing is scanty and cheap for either sex.

The cattle were small, pale red creatures, and not inclined to be very

fat, and the birds mostly of the parrot kind. The market plaza is

outside the walls, and a small stream runs through it, with the banks

pretty thickly occupied by washerwomen. All the washing was done without

the aid of a fire.

On the plaza there were plenty of donkeys loaded with truck of all

sorts, from wood, green grass, cocoa-nuts and sugar-cane to parrots,

monkeys and all kinds of tropical fruits. Outside the walls the houses

were made of stakes interwoven with palm leaves, and everything was

green as well as the grass and trees. Very little of the ground seemed

to be cultivated, and the people were lazy and idle, for they could live

so easily on the wild products of the country. A white man here would

soon sweat out all his ambition and enterprise, and would be almost

certain to catch the Panama yellow fever. The common class of the people

here, I should say, were Spanish and negro mixed, and they seem to get

along pretty well; but the country is not suitable for white people. It

seems to have been made on purpose for donkeys, parrots and long-heeled

negroes.

The cabin passengers engaged all the horses and mules the country

afforded on which to ride across the Chagres River, so it fell to the

lot of myself and companion to transfer ourselves on foot, which was

pretty hard work in the hot and sultry weather. My gold dust began to

grow pretty heavy as I went along, and though I had only about two

thousand dollars, weighing about ten pounds, it seemed to me that it

weighed fifty pounds by the way that it bore down upon my shoulders and

wore sore places on them. It really was burdensome. I had worn it on my

person night and day ever since leaving the mines, and I had some little

fear of being robbed when off the ship.

Our road had been some day paved with cobble stones. At the outskirts of

the town we met a native coming in with a big green lizard, about two

feet long, which he was hauling and driving along with a string around

its neck. I wondered if this was not a Panama butcher bringing in a

fresh supply of meat.

When we reached the hills on our way from Panama, the paved road ended

and we had only a mule trail to follow. The whole country was so densely

timbered that no man could go very far without a cleared road. In some

places we passed over hills of solid rock, but it was of a soft nature

so that the trail was worn down very deep, and we had to take the same

regular steps that the mules did, for their tracks were worn down a foot

or more. On the road we would occasionally meet a native with a heavy

pack on his back, a long staff in each hand, and a solid half-length

sword by his side. He, like the burro, grunted every step he took. They

seemed to carry unreasonably heavy loads on their backs, such as boxes

and trunks, but there was no other way of getting either freight or

baggage across the isthmus at that time.

It looked to me as if this trail might be just such a one as one would

expect robbers to frequent, for it would of course be expected that

Californians would carry considerable money with them, and we might

reasonably look out for this sort of gentry at any turn of the trail. We

were generally without weapons, and we should have to deliver on demand,

and if any one was killed the body could easily be concealed in the

thick brush on either side of the trail, and no special search for

anyone missing would occur.

About noon one day we came to a native hut, and saw growing on a tree

near by something that looked like oranges, and we made very straight

tracks with the idea of picking some and having a feast, but some of the

people in the shanty called out to us and made motions for us not to

pick them for they were no good; so we missed our treat of oranges and

contented ourselves with a big drink of water and walked on.

After a little more travel we came to another shanty made of poles and

palm leaves, occupied by an American. He was a tall, raw-boned,

cadaverous looking way-side renegade who looked as if the blood had all

been pumped out of his veins, and he claimed to be sick. He said he was

one of the Texas royal sons. We applied for some dinner and he lazily

told us there were flour, tea and bacon and that we could help

ourselves. I wet up some flour and baked some cakes, made some poor tea,

and fried some bacon. We all got a sort of dinner out of his pantry

stuff, and left him a dollar apiece for the accommodation. As we walked

on my companion gave out and could carry his bundle no longer, so I took

it, along with my own, and we got on as fast as we could, but darkness

came on us before we reached the Chagres River and we had to stay all

night at a native hut. We had some supper consisting of some very poor

coffee, crackers, and a couple of eggs apiece, and had to sleep out

under a tree where we knew we might find lizards, snakes, and other

poisonous reptiles, and perhaps a thieving monkey might pick our pockets

while we slept.

Before it was entirely dark many who rode horses came along, many of

them ladies, and following the custom of the country, they all rode

astride. Among this crowd was one middle-aged and somewhat corpulent old

fellow, by profession a sea-captain, who put on many airs. The old

fellow put on his cool white coat--in fact, a white suit throughout--and

in this tropical climate he looked very comfortable, indeed, thus

attired. He filled his breast pocket with fine cigars, and put in the

other pocket a flask with some medicine in it which was good for snake

bites, and also tending to produce courage in case the man, not used to

horse-back riding, should find his natural spirits failing. The rest of

his luggage was placed on pack animals, and in fact the only way luggage

was carried in those days was either on the backs of donkeys or men.

All was ready for a start, and the captain in his snow-white suit was

mounted on a mule so small that his feet nearly touched the ground. The

little animal had a mind of his own, and at first did not seem inclined

to start out readily, but after a bit concluded to follow his fellow

animals, and all went well.

The rider was much amused at what he saw; sometimes a very lively

monkey, sometimes a flock: of paroquets or a high-colored lizard--and so

he rode along with a very happy air, holding his head up, and smoking a

fragrant Havana with much grace. The road was rough and rocky, with a

mud-hole now and then of rather uncertain depth. At every one of these

mud-holes the Captain's mule would stop, put down his head, blow his

nose and look wise, and then carefully sound the miniature sea with his

fore-feet, being altogether too cautious to suit his rider who had never

been accustomed to a craft that was afraid of water.

At one of these performances the mule evidently concluded the sea before

him was not safe, for when the captain tried to persuade him to cross

his persuasions had no effect. Then he coaxed him with voice gentle,

soft and low, with the result that the little animal took a few very

short steps and then came to anchor again. Then the captain began to get

slightly roiled in temper, and the voice was not so gentle, sweet and

low, but it had no greater effect upon his craft. He began to get

anxious, for the others had gone on, and he thought perhaps he might be

left.

Now, this sea-faring man had armed his heels with the large Spanish

spurs so common in the country, and bringing them in contact with the

force due to considerable impatience, Mr. Mule was quite suddenly and

painfully aware of the result. This was harsher treatment than he could

peaceably submit to, and at the second application of the spurs a pair

of small hoofs were very high in the air and the captain very low on his

back in the mud and water, having been blown from the hurricane deck of

his craft in a very sudden and lively style. The philosophical mule

stood very still and looked on while the white coat and pantaloons were

changing to a dirty brown, and watched the captain as he waded out, to

the accompaniment of some very vigorous swear words.

Both the man and beast looked very doubtful of each other's future

actions, but the man shook the water off and bestowed some lively kicks

on his muleship which made him bounce into and through the mud-hole, and

the captain, still holding the bridle, followed after. Once across the

pool the captain set his marine eye on the only craft that had been too

much for his navigation and said "Vengeance should be mine," and in this

doubtful state of mind he cautiously mounted his beast again and fully

resolved to stick to the deck, hereafter, at all hazards, he hurried on

and soon overtook the train again, looking quite like a half drowned

rooster. The others laughed at him and told him they could find better

water a little way ahead, at the river, and they would see him safely

in. The captain was over his pet, and made as much fun as any of them,

declaring that he could not navigate such a bloody craft as that in such

limited sea room, for it was dangerous even when there was no gale to

speak of.

The ladies did not blush at the new and convenient costumes which they

saw in this country, and laughed a good deal over the way of traveling

they had to adopt. Any who were sick were carried in a kind of chair

strapped to the back of a native. Passengers were strung along the road

for miles, going and coming. We would occasionally sit down awhile and

let the sweat run off while a party of them passed us. Some were mounted

on horses, some on mules, and some on donkeys, and they had to pay

twelve dollars for the use of an animal for the trip.

Our night at this wayside deadfall was not much better than some of the

nights about Death Valley, but as I was used to low fare, I did not

complain as some did. This seemed a wonderful country to a northern

raised boy. The trail was lined on both sides with all kinds of palms

and various other kinds of trees and shrubs, and they were woven

together in a compact mass with trailing and running vines. The trees

were not tall, and the bark was as smooth as a young hickory. The roots

would start out of the tree three feet above the ground and stand out at

an angle, and looked like big planks placed edgewise.

It seemed as if there were too many plants for the ground to support,

and so they grew on the big limbs of the trees all around, the same as

the mistletoe on the oak, only there were ever so many different kinds.

The weather was very clear, and the sun so hot that many of the

travelers began to wilt and sit down by the roadside to rest. Many

walked along very slowly and wore long faces. The road from Panama to

Crucez, on the Chagres River, was eighteen miles long, and all were glad

when they were on the last end of it. The climate here seems to take all

the starch and energy out of a man's body, and in this condition he must

be very cautious or some disease will overtake him and he will be left

to die without burial for his body if he has no personal friends with

him.

We started on the next morning, and on our way stepped over a large ship

anchor that lay across the trail. I suppose the natives had undertaken

to pack it across the isthmus and found it too heavy for them. Perhaps

it was for Capt. Kidd, the great pirate, for it is said that he often

visited Panama in the course of his cruising about in search of

treasures.

Passing along a sandy place in the trail, a snake crossed and left his

track, big as a stovepipe it seemed to be, and after this we kept a

sharp watch for big snakes that might be in waiting to waylay us for

game.

There were plenty of monkeys and parrots climbing and chattering around

in the trees. The forest is here so dense that the wind never blows, and

consequently it never gets cool. The sun, ever since we got down near

the equator, was nearly overhead, and the moon seemed to be even north

of us.

When we reached the Chagres River we hired a boat of an Irishman for the

trip down. I wondered if there was a place on earth so desolate that the

"Paddy" would not find it. The boat for the journey cost two hundred

dollars, and would hold passengers enough so that it would cost us ten

dollars each, at any rate, and perhaps a little more. Two natives had

charge of the boat and did the navigating. There were two ladies among

the passengers, and when the two natives, who I suppose were the captain

and mate of the craft, came on board, clad very coolly in Panama hats,

the ladies looked at them a little out of the corners of their eyes and

made the best of it. Our two navigators took the oars and pulled slowly

down the stream.

Nothing but water and evergreen trees could we see, for the shore on

either hand was completely hidden by the dense growth that hung over and

touched the water. On a mud bar that we passed a huge alligator lay,

taking a sun bath, and though many shots were fired at him he moved away

very leisurely. No one could get on shore without first clearing a road

through the thick brushes and vines along the bank. On the way one of

our boatmen lost his hat, his only garment, into the river, and

overboard he went, like a dog, and soon had it and climbed on board

again. I wondered why some of the big alligators did not make a snap at

him.

The water in the run looked very roily and dirty, and no doubt had fever

in it. The only animals we saw were monkeys and alligators, and there

were parrots in the trees. The farther we went down the stream the wider

it became, and the current slacker so that we moved more slowly with the

same amount of rowing. At a place called Dos Hermanos (two brothers) we

could see a little cleared spot near the bank, which seemed to be three

or four feet above the water. There were no mountains nor hills in

sight, and the whole country seemed to be an extensive swamp. It was

near night that we came to a small native village of palm huts, and here

our boatmen landed and hid themselves, and not being able to find them

we were compelled to stay all night, for we dare not go on alone. The

place looked like a regular robbers' roost, and being forced to sleep

outside the huts, we considered it safest to sleep with one eye open. We

would have gone on with the boat only that we were afraid the river

might have more than one outlet, and if we should take the wrong one we

might be too late for the steamer, which even now we were afraid would

not wait for us, and getting left would be a very serious matter in this

country.

We had very little to eat, and all we could buy was sugar cane, bananas,

monkeys and parrots. We kept a sharp eye out for robbers, keeping

together as much as we could, for we knew that all returning

Californians would be suspected of having money. Most all of them were

ready for war except myself who had no weapon of any kind. All of these

people had a bad name, and every one of them carried a long bladed knife

called a Macheta, with which they could kill a man at a single blow. But

with all our fears we got through the night safely, and in the morning

found our boatmen who had hidden away. We waited not for breakfast, but

sailed away as soon as we could, and reached Chagres, near the mouth of

the river, before night.

The river banks here are not more than three feet high, and farther back

the land fell off again into a wet swamp of timber and dense vegetable

growth. The town was small and poorly built, on the immediate bank, and

the houses were little brush and palm affairs except the boarding house

which was "T" shaped, the front two stories high, with a long dining

room running back, having holes for windows, but no glass in them.

Before the bell rung for meals a long string of hungry men would form in

line, and at the first tap would make a rush for the table like a flock

of sheep. After all were seated a waiter came around and collected a

dollar from each one, and we thought this paid pretty well for the very

poor grub they served afterwards.

No ship had as yet been in sight to take us away from this lowest,

dirtiest, most unhealthful place on earth, and the prospect of remaining

here had nothing very charming about it. The river was full of

alligators, so the bathing was dangerous, and the whole country was

about fit for its inhabitants, which were snakes, alligators, monkeys,

parrots and lazy negroes. It could not have been more filthy if the

dregs of the whole earth had been dumped here, and cholera and yellow

fever were easy for a decent man to catch.

My companion and I went out on the beach a mile or two to get the salt

water breeze, and leave the stinking malaria for those who chose to stay

in the hot, suffocating village, and here we would stay until nearly

night. Across a small neck of water was what was called a fort. It could

hardly be seen it was so covered with moss and vines, but near the top

could be seen something that looked like old walls. There was no sign of

life about it, and I should judge it was built at some very early day.

Surely there was nothing here to protect, for the whole country did not

seem able to support even a few barefooted soldiers.

Some men who wandered along up the river bank, following a path, said

they had seen some dead human bodies thrown into the swamp and left,

probably because it was easier than putting them under ground.

For a bedroom I hired a little platform which a store keeper had placed

before his store, where I slept, and paid a dollar for the privilege.

Some one walked around near me all night, and I dared not close more

than one eye at a time for fear of losing a little bag of gold dust.

This little bag of gold was getting to be a great burden to me in this

sickly climate, and the vigilant guard I had to keep over so small a

treasure was very tiresome.

The second night no steamer came, but on the third morning the steamer

was riding at anchor three or four miles out, and soon after a ship came

in from the Atlantic end of the Nicaragua route with one thousand

passengers, there being no steamer there for them to take a passage home

on, and so they had to come here for a start. This filled the little

town to overflowing, but as the ship that had arrived was the Georga,

one of the largest afloat, all could go if they only could endure the

fare.

We now had to go in small boats from the shore to the ship, and the trip

cost two dollars and a half. I waited till I had seen some of the boats

make a trip or two, and then choosing one that had a sober skipper, I

made the venture. It was said that one drunken boatman allowed his boat

to drift into some breakers and all were lost.

I tell you I was over anxious to get out of this country, for I well

knew that if I stayed very long I should stay forever, for one like

myself raised in a healthful climate, could not remain long without

taking some of the fatal diseases the country was full of.

We made the trip to the vessel safely, and as our boat lay under the

ship's quarter, the men holding the ropes, I looked up, and when I saw

the swinging rope ladder on which I was expected to climb up to the

ship's deck, it seemed a pretty dangerous job; but I mustered up courage

and made the attempt. The sea was pretty rough out here for the small

boats, and the ship rolled some, so that when persons tried to get hold

of the ladder they were thrown down and sometimes hurt a little. A man

held on to the lower end of the ladder so that the one who was climbing

might not get banged against the side of the ship and have his breath

knocked out of him, I mounted the ladder safely and climbed away like a

monkey, reaching the deck all right. Ladies and weak people were hauled

up in a sort of chair with a block and rope.

It took the most of two days to get the people on board, and when they

were counted up there were one thousand four hundred and forty, all

told. This steamer had a very long upper deck and a comparatively short

keel, and rolled very badly; and as for me, I had swallowed so much of

the deadly malaria of the isthmus that I soon got very seasick, and the

first day or two were very unpleasant. I went to the bar and paid two

bits for a glass of wine to help my appetite, but it staid with me no

longer than time enough to reach the ship's side. When night came the

decks were covered with sleepy men, and if the weather had been rough

and all sick, as was the case when we left San Francisco, we should have

had more filthy decks than we had even on that occasion.

Approaching the harbor at Havana, Cuba, we seemed to be going head

foremost against a wall of solid rock, but when within speaking distance

an officer came in sight on the fort right before us, and shouted

through his speaking trumpet, saying:--"Why don't you salute us?" Our

officer said, "You know us well enough without." Our ship had a small

cannon on the forecastle, but did not choose to use it, and I suppose

the Cuban officer felt slighted. We now turned short to the right and

entered the beautiful harbor, which is perfectly landlocked and as still

as a pond. The city is all on the right side of the bay and our coal

yard was on the left at a short wharf at which we landed.

A lot of armed soldiers were placed a short distance back on the high

ground and no one was allowed to go beyond them. We now had a port

officer on board who had entire charge of the ship, and if anyone wanted

to go to the city, across the bay two or three miles, he had to pay a

dollar for a pass. This pass business made the blue bloods terribly

angry, and they swore long and loud, and the longer they talked the

madder they got, and more bitter in their feelings, so that they were

ready to fight (not with sugar-bowls this time.)

The weather here was very warm and the heat powerful, and as these

fellows saw there was only one course to be pursued if they wanted to

get on shore, they slowly took passes good for all day and paid their

dollar for them, and also another dollar each to the canoe men to take

them to the city. Myself and companion also took passes and went over.

Arriving at the city we walked a short distance and came to the plaza,

which is not a very large one. Here was a single grave nicely fenced in,

and across the plaza were some large two-story houses in front of which

was stationed a squad of cavalry standing as motionless as if every man

of them was a marble statue. We kept on the opposite side of the street,

and chancing to meet a man whom we rightly supposed to be an Englishman,

we inquired about the grave on the plaza and were informed that it was

that of Christopher Columbus, the discoverer of America.

Just then we noticed the cavalry moving up the street at a slow gallop,

and so formed that a close carriage was in the center of the squad. As

they rushed by and we gazed at them with purely American curiousity, our

new English friend raised our hats for us and held them till the

cavalcade had passed, merely remarking that the Governor General was

within the carriage. We spoke perhaps a bit unpleasantly when we asked

him why he was so ungentlemanly in his treatment of us as to remove our

hats, but he said:--"My friends, if I had not taken off your hats for

you as a friend, some of those other fellows would have knocked them

off, so I did for you an act of greatest kindness, for every one removes

his hat when the Governor General passes." He also informed us that the

special occasion for this rather pompous parade was the execution of

some criminals at a park or prison not far away, and that this was done

by beheading them.

Our friend proposed that we also walk out in that direction, and we went

with him to the edge of the city, but when he turned into a by path that

did not seem much frequented, we declined to follow farther, and turned

back along the open road. The path looked to us a sort of robber's

route, and not exactly safe for unarmed men like us in a strange

country.

The man followed us back and took us into a large, airy saloon, in the

center of which a big fountain was playing, and the great basin in which

the water fell was filled with beautiful fish. Our friend called for an

iced drink for each of us, and as we sat at the table we tasted it and

found it rather intoxicating. For this they charged us one dollar each,

but we noticed that our friend paid nothing, and we set him down as a

sort of capper, after the style we had seen at the gold mines. We sat a

few minutes and then so coolly bade our friend good-bye that he had not

the face to follow us further, and continued our walk about the streets

which seemed to us very narrow, and the houses generally two stories

high.

A chaise passed us, containing two young ladies with complexions white

and fair, and eyes and hair black, in striking contrast. The carriage

was drawn by two horses tandem, the horse in the shafts being mounted by

a big negro of very dignified appearance, dressed in livery and having

top boots that came to his knees. This was the only vehicle of the kind

we saw on the streets.

We did not dare to go very far alone, for with our ignorance of the

Spanish language we might go astray and not get back to the ship within

the lifetime of our passes, and not knowing how much trouble that might

cause us, we were naturally a little timid; so we took a boat back to

the ship, and when on board again we felt safe. We had only about four

dollars cash left.

A big gang of darkies were coaling the ship. Each one carried a large

tub full of coal upon his head and poured it down into the ship's hold.

All the clothes these fellows wore was a strip of cloth about their

middle. When they were let off for dinner they skimmed off all they

could get from the ship's slop barrel which stood on the wharf

alongside, to help out their very scanty food. The overseer stood by

them all the time with a big whip and made them hurry up as fast as

possible, talking Spanish pretty vigorously, and though we could not

understand, we made up our minds that a good part of it was swearing.

The next morning the steamship Prometheus came in and tied up near us,

and soon word was brought that she would take the New Orleans passengers

on board and sail immediately for that port. It now occurred to me that

I could get nearer home by going up the Mississippi River than by way of

New York, so I went on board the Prometheus, and we soon sailed out of

the harbor, passing under the gate of the fortress called, I think, San

Juan de Ulloa.

Nothing special occurred during our passage till we were near the mouth

of the Mississippi River, when, in the absence of a pilot boat or tug,

our Captain thought he would try to get in alone, and as a consequence

we were soon fast in the mud. The Captain now made all the passengers go

aft, and worked the engine hard but could not move her at all. The tide

was now low, and there was a prospect that we should have to wait full

six hours to get away. We worked on, however, and after a few hours a

tug came to our assistance and pulled us out of the mud and towed us

into the right channel, up which we steamed on our way to New Orleans,

one-hundred-twenty miles away.

The country on both sides of us was an immense marsh--no hills in sight,

no timber, nothing but the same level marsh or prairie. When we were

nearer the Crescent City some houses came in sight; then we passed

General Jackson's battle-field, and in due time reached the city.

On board this ship I became acquainted with Dick Evans who lived in the

same county that I used to in Wisconsin, near Mineral Point, so the

three of us now concluded to travel together.

New Orleans seemed to be a very large city. Near the levee a large

government building was in course of construction for a Custom House. It

was all of stone, and the walls were up about two stories. We put up at

a private boarding house, and the first business was to try and sell our

gold dust. So we went to the mint and were told we would have to wait

ten days to run it through the mill, and we did not like to wait so

long. We were shown all through the mint and saw all the wonders of coin

making. Every thing seemed perfect here. Beautiful machinery was in

operation making all sizes of gold coins, from a twenty dollar piece

down. Strips of gold bands about six feet long and of the proper

thickness for twenty dollar pieces are run through a machine which cuts

out the pieces, and when these are cut they can stamp out the pieces as

fast as one can count.

This was the most ingenious work I ever saw, and very wonderful and

astonishing to a backwoodsman like myself, for I supposed that money was

run in moulds like bullets.

As we could not wait we went to a bank and sold our dust, getting only

sixteen dollars per ounce, the same price they paid in California. We

now took the cars and rode out to Lake Ponchartrain--most of the way

over a trestle work. We found a wharf and warehouse at the lake, and a

steamer lay there all ready to go across to the other side. The country

all about looked low, with no hills in sight.

When we returned to the city we looked all about, and in the course of

our travels came to a slave market. Here there were all sorts of black

folks for sale; big and little, old and young and all sorts. They all

seemed good-natured, and were clean, and seemed to think they were worth

a good deal of money. Looking at them a few minutes sent my mind back to

St. Joseph, Missouri, where I saw a black sold at auction. From my

standpoint of education I did not approve of this way of trading in

colored people.

We continued our stroll about the city, coming to a cemetery, where I

looked into a newly dug grave to find it half full of water. On one side

were many brick vaults above ground. The ground here is very low and

wet, and seemed to be all swamp. The drainage was in surface gutters,

and in them the water stood nearly still. It seemed to me such water

must have yellow fever in it.

For a long way along the levee the steamboats lay thick and close

together, unloading cotton, hemp, sugar, hoop poles, bacon and other

products, mostly the product of negro labor.

Here our friend Evans was taken sick, and as he got no better after a

day or two, we called a doctor to examine him. He pronounced it a mild

case of yellow fever. His skin was yellow in places, and he looked very

badly. The doctor advised us to go on up the river, saying it was very

dangerous staying here with him. Evans gave me most of his money and all

of his gold specimens to take to his wife, and when he got well he would

follow us. We bade him good-bye, and with many wishes for his speedy

recovery, we took passage on a steamer for St. Louis. This steamer, the

Atlantic, proved to be a real floating palace in all respects. The table

was supplied with everything the country afforded, and polite and

well-dressed darkies were numerous as table waiters. This was the most

pleasant trip I had ever taken, and I could not help comparing the

luxuriance of my coming home to the hardships of the outward journey

across the plains, and our starvation fare.

Our boat was rather large for the stage of water this time of year, and

we proceeded rather slowly, but I cared little for speed as bed and

board were extra good, and a first cabin passage in the company of

friends, many of whom were going to the same part of Wisconsin as

myself, was not a tedious affair by any means.

At night gambling was carried on very extensively, and money changed

hands freely as the result of sundry games of poker, which was the

popular game.

We reached St. Louis in time, and here was the end of our boat's run.

The river had some ice floating on its surface, and this plainly told us

that we were likely to meet more ice and colder weather as we went

north. We concluded to take the Illinois River boat from here to Peoria,

and paid our passage and stepped on board. We were no more than half way

through this trip when the ice began to form on the surface of the

water, and soon became so thick and strong that the boat finally came to

a perfect standstill, frozen in solid.

We now engaged a farm wagon to take us to Peoria, from which place we

took regular stages for Galena. Our driver was inclined to be very

merciful to his horses, so we were two days in reaching that town, but

perhaps it was best, for the roads were icy and slippery, and the

weather of the real winter sort. From here we hired a team to take four

of us to Plattville, and then an eighteen-mile walk brought me to

Mineral Point, the place from which I started with my Winnebago pony in

1849. I had now finished my circle and brought both ends of the long

belt together.

I now went to a drug store and weighed Mr. Evans' specimens, wrapping

each in a separate piece of paper, with the value marked on each, and

took them to his wife, to whom I told the news about her husband. In two

week's time he came home sound and well.

I was quite disappointed in regard to the looks and business appearance

of the country. It looked thinly settled, people scarce, and business

dull. I could not get a day's work to do, and I could not go much

farther on foot, for the snow was eight or ten inches deep, and I was

still several hundred miles from my parents in Michigan. So my journey

farther east was delayed until spring. The hunting season was over, and

when I came into Mineral Point without a gun, and wore good clothes,

making a better appearance than I used to, they seemed to think I must

be rich and showed me marked attention, and made many inquiries about

their neighbors who started for California about the same time I did.

The young ladies smiled pleasantly when near me, and put on their best

white aprons, looking very tidy and bright, far superior to any of the

ladies I had seen in my crooked route from San Francisco through

Acapulco, Panama, the West Indies and along the Mississippi.

After a few days in town I went out into the neighborhood where I used

to live and stopped with Mr. E.A. Hall, who used to be a neighbor of Mr.

Bennett, as he had invited me to stay with himself and wife, who were

the only occupants of a good house, and all was pleasant. But

notwithstanding all the comfort in which I was placed, I grew lonesome,

for the enforced idleness, on account of the stormy weather, was a new

feature in my life, and grew terribly monotonous.

After some delay I concluded to write to my parents in Michigan and give

them a long letter with something of a history of my travels, and to

refresh my memory I got out my memorandum I had kept through all my

journey.

As my letter was liable to be quite lengthy I bought a quantity of

foolscap paper and begun. I took my diary as my guide, and filled out

the ideas suggested in it so they would understand them. I soon ran

through with my paper and bought more, and kept on writing. The weather

was cold and stormy, and I found it the best occupation I could have to

prevent my being lonesome; so I worked away, day after day, for about a

month, and I was really quite tired of this sort of work before I had

all the facts recorded which I found noted down in my diary. My notes

began in March, 1849, in Wisconsin, and ended in February, 1852, on my

return to Mineral Point. I found, as the result of my elaboration, over

three hundred pages of closely written foolscap paper, and I felt very

much relieved when it was done. By the aid of my notes I could very

easily remember everything that had taken place during my absence, and

it was recorded in regular form, with day and date, not an incident of

any importance left out, and every word as true as gospel. I had neither

exaggerated nor detracted from any event so far as I could recollect.

I now loaned Mr. Hall, with whom I lived, six hundred dollars to enable

him to cross the plains to California and try to make his fortune. To

secure this I took a mortgage on his eighty-acre farm, and he set out to

make the journey. I had another eighty acres of land near here which I

bought at government price before going to California, but I could not

now sell it for what it cost me. When I went away I had left my chest

and contents with my friend Samuel Zollinger, and he had kept it safely,

so I now made him my lawful agent. I placed my narrative and some other

papers in the chest and gave the key into his charge, while I went

north, across the Wisconsin River, to visit my old hunting and trapping

friend, Robert McCloud. Here I made a very pleasant visit of perhaps a

week, and the common prospects of the country were freely talked over.

It seemed to us as if the good times were still far off; every day was

like Sunday so far as anything going on; no money in circulation, many

places abandoned, and, like myself, many had gone to California to seek

gold instead of lead. (The mines at Mineral Point are mostly of lead,

with some copper.)

Looking at matters in this light it did not need a great deal of

McCloud's persuasion to induce me to go back with him to California, all

the more so as my little pile seemed to look smaller every day, while

three or four years ago it would have seemed quite large. Deciding to

go, I wrote to Mr. Zollinger to send the account I had written to my

parents in Michigan, reading it first himself, and admonishing him not

to lend it. I also wrote to my parents telling them what they might look

for in the mails, and cautioning them never to have it printed, for the

writing was so ungrammatical and the spelling so incorrect that it would

be no credit to me.

I afterward learned that in time they received the bundle of paper and

read it through and through, and circulated it around the neighborhood

till it was badly worn, and laid it away for future perusal when their

minds should incline that way. But the farm house soon after took fire

and burned, my labor going up in smoke.

When the news of this reached me I resolved to try to forget all the

trials, troubles and hardships I had gone through, and which I had

almost lived over again as I wrote them down, and I said to myself that

I would not talk about them more than I could help, the sooner to have

them vanish, and never write them down again, but a few years ago an

accident befell me so that I could not work, and I back-slid from my

determination when I was persuaded so earnestly by many friends to write

the account which appeared a few years ago in the Santa Clara Valley now

the Pacific Tree and Vine, edited by H.A. Brainard, at San Jose,

California. The diary was lost, and from memory alone the facts have

been rehearsed, and it is but fair to tell the reader that the hardest

and worst of it has never been told nor will it ever be.