with nearly thirty thousand inhabitants. Here is a great show of
churches, and they seem built for all ages. The Cathedral is a
noble-looking edifice. We had no time to see the old ducal palace, which
has so many historical events connected with it. We saw some beautiful
promenades, but only glanced at them. Bossuet was born here, and St.
Bernard only a mile outside the walls, in a castle yet standing.
The new railroad had just been opened to Paris, and is one hundred and
ninety-six miles and a half of most capital track. We went through
Verrey, Montbard, Nuits, Tonnerre, La Roche, Joigny, Sens, Montereau,
Fontainebleau, Melun, to Paris. Montbard gave birth to Buffon, the
naturalist. Nuits is famous for the vintage of its own name, Romanee,
and other choice wines of Burgundy. Near Tonnerre is the chateau of
Coligny d'Audelot, brother to the admiral massacred on St. Bartholomew's
night. Sens is famous for its Cathedral, which is apparently very
splendid; and here are the vestments of Thomas a Becket, and the very
altar at which he knelt, all of which I wanted to see. Fontainebleau is
beautifully placed in the midst of a forest. Here is a palace, and at
this place Napoleon bade farewell to the Old Guard, in 1814. This place
is celebrated for its grapes, raised in the vicinity. Melun was known
in Caesar's time, and in 1520 was taken by Henry V., of England, and held
ten years. We reached Paris on the evening of Saturday, and again
occupied our old quarters at the Hotel Windsor. I went off to my
favorite bathing-house at the Seine, and felt wondrously refreshed after
the heat and dust of more than three hundred miles and two days'
journeying.
Yours affectionately,
JAMES.
Letter 48.
PARIS.
DEAR CHARLEY:--
We have again arrived at this charming city, and hope to pass a few
pleasant days, which will be chiefly devoted to purchases of clothing
and some of the beautiful articles which are so abundant in the shops of
this metropolis. Besides, we have some few places to visit before we
return to England. On Sabbath day we went to the Methodist Chapel, near
the Church of the Madeleine, and heard a capital sermon from Dr.
Ritchie, the president of the Canadian Conference. In the evening I
preached. The congregations were very good, and the preacher of the
chapel seems a very gentlemanly and pleasant man. In the congregation I
had the pleasure to meet with our eloquent countryman and my old
friend, the Rev. James Alexander, D.D., of New York, and I announced
that he would preach on Wednesday evening. We went into the Madeleine
and spent nearly an hour. The house is very splendid; but it does not
appear devotional, or likely to inspire suitable feelings. I prefer the
Gothic pile, or a plainer temple. It is all painting, gilding, flowers,
and form. Here Popery shows her hand, and outdoes every thing that she
dares yet show in New England. The music was exquisite, and the voices
of the boys very sweet. Many of the people seemed in earnest. The
priests appeared to me devoid of interest. We went one morning to the
Pantheon. This noble church was formerly known as St. Genevieve, and was
rebuilt, in 1764, by a lottery under the auspices of Louis XV. The
portico is an imitation of the one at Rome on its namesake, and consists
of Corinthian columns nearly sixty feet high, and five feet in diameter.
The interior form is that of a Greek cross. Every thing here is grand
and majestically simple. Above the centre of the cross rises a dome of
great beauty, with a lantern above. In this building are one hundred and
thirty columns. The church is three hundred and two feet by two hundred
and fifty-five. In this building are the tombs and monuments of some of
the great men of France. Voltaire, Rousseau, Mirabeau, and Marat were
here buried, but were taken up by the Bourbons, at the restoration. La
Grange and Lannes also rest here. Here we saw seven copies of the famous
frescoes of Angelo and Raphael, in the Vatican, and several pieces of
statuary. The vaults extend beneath the church to a great length. I
believe this is the highest spot in Paris. On leaving the place, I
looked again at the dome, which greatly pleased me. It is three hundred
feet above the floor of the church; and the painting, by Gros, is very
fine. I think we have seen nothing of the kind that is so beautiful. It
is principally historical; and among the figures are Clovis, Clotilda,
Charlemagne, St. Louis, Louis XVIII., and the Duchess d'Angouleme, with
the infant Duke of Bourdeaux; and above all these, as in heaven, are
Louis XVI., Marie Antoinette, Louis XVII., and Madame Elizabeth.
We were all thankful enough to find that the Louvre is at last open. We
walked there, looking with interest at the Tuileries, which I cannot
help admiring, although some think it devoid of architectural merit. Its
wide-spread pavilions of one thousand feet, looming up with
time-darkened walls, always please me. The palace of the Louvre is an
older edifice than the Tuileries; the newer portion was the work of the
reign of Louis XIV. The quadrangle is very fine, and the proportions of
the entire building admirable. Our business was with that part called
the Musee Royal, and here are the paintings and statues which have
given such a renown to Paris. You must recollect, my dear fellow, that
we cannot tell you all about these pictures, for the gallery is nearly
one third of a mile in length, and each side is filled up with canvas,
and the rooms are lofty. There was a time when almost all that
continental Europe thought exquisite in art was to be found here.
Bonaparte levied contributions on all the capitals he conquered, and
here he deposited his ill-gotten spoils. Once were seen in this place
the great masterpieces of Raphael, Guido, Titian, Domenichino, Murillo,
Rubens, Rembrandt, Potter, and a host of other artists who created
beauty; but when right overcame might, these pictures were returned to
their original owners. The catalogue we bought was a volume of five
hundred pages, and was only of statuary; and what could we do but walk,
wonder, and admire? To examine would be a task and pleasure for three
months. The department of statuary is very large; and here we saw
surprising fragments of the Grecian and Roman schools. The paintings by
Rubens here are numerous, but by no means as fine as those we saw at
Antwerp and in the museums of Holland. All the great masters are here,
and their works are finely arranged. We saw some of Claude Lorraine's
that were beautiful; and some pictures that I missed, since I was here
in 1836, have been transferred, I learn, by Louis Philippe, to
Versailles and other palaces. The gallery has been thoroughly painted
and beautified; and I never saw a place more radiant with gilding and
frescoes. The ceilings are very gorgeous.
We selected a fine day for an excursion to Versailles; and, that we
might have our pleasure consulted as to sight-seeing, we preferred a
private carriage to the railroad. Versailles is about twelve miles from
Paris, and has some twenty-five or thirty thousand inhabitants. Henry
IV. used to resort here for hunting. Louis XIII. had a lodge here for
his comfort when following the chase. Louis XIV. turned the lodge into a
palace, and began operations in 1664. In 1681, he removed with his court
to this place. The Chapel was begun in 1699, and finished in 1710. The
Theatre was inaugurated at the marriage of Louis XVI., in 1770. A new
wing was built by Louis XVIII. Louis Philippe made great additions, and
devoted the palace to the noble purpose of a national depot of all that
is glorious in the history of France. What Louis Philippe did here you
may imagine, when I tell you that on the restoration and improvement of
Versailles he expended fifteen millions of francs. Why, Charley, the
stables are like mansions, and fine ones, too. The grand court is three
hundred and eighty feet wide, and the Place d'Armes, which leads to it,
is eight hundred feet wide. The iron railings which divide these are
very richly gilt. On either side the court are ranges of buildings
intended for the ministers of the king; and here are sixteen colossal
marble statues, which I well remember, at the Pont de la Concorde, in
Paris. They are great names of old and modern renown. In the centre of
the court is a colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV. Now comes
another court devoted to royalty; and north and south are wings and
pavilions, one built by Louis XV., and the other by Louis Philippe. Next
we see the Cour de Marbre, around which is the old palace of Louis
XIII., crowned with balustrades, vases, trophies, and statues. South of
the Cour Royale is a small court called Cour des Princes, and divides
the wing built by Louis XVIII. from the main body of the southern wing.
The Grand Commun is a vast square edifice, enclosing a court. It has one
thousand rooms; and when Louis XIV. lived here, three thousand people
lodged: in this building. The chapel is exceedingly beautiful. It is in
Corinthian style, and is one hundred and forty-eight feet by
seventy-five, and ninety feet high. The front of the palace is
magnificent in the highest degree. "It presents a large projecting mass
of building, with two immense wings, and consists of a ground floor,
first floor of the Ionic style, and attic. The wings exceed five hundred
feet in length. The central front is three hundred and twenty feet
long, and each of its retiring sides two hundred and sixty feet. The
number of windows and doors _of this front_ are three hundred and
seventy-five." To describe the paintings and statuary would require a
volume. Let me say that here on the walls is all the history of France
that conduces to her glory. Every battle by land or sea, that she ever
won, is here; but not an allusion to her defeats. I looked hard for
Agincourt and Cressy; to say nothing of later conflicts, but they were
not to be seen. Some of these pictures have great merit, while others
are coarsely designed and executed. The historical series begins with
the Baptism of Clovis, in 495, and comes down to the present period,
with the illustration of about eleven hundred subjects. Then there are
about one hundred views of royal palaces, and series as follows:
Portraits of the kings of France, of French admirals, of constables of
France, and of marshals of France, to the number of some two hundred and
fifty; of French warriors, of personages who became celebrated in
different ways, which amount to nearly eighteen hundred; and here we
found several Americans. We noticed the likeness of Mr. Webster, by
Healy; but the canvas is too small, and the picture has faded. It is not
equal to the noble painting by Harding, which we saw just before we left
home. These last portraits afforded us a great treat; and here we saw
fine likenesses of the great ones of the earth. All the old pictures
have dates of death, and many of birth. The sculpture gallery is very
rich. There are more than six hundred figures, some of them exceedingly
expressive and beautiful. I should think that more than two hundred and
fifty of the historical paintings relate to events and persons connected
with the power of Napoleon.
A very conspicuous feature is the series illustrating the conquest of
Algiers. These are four in number, and are immense as to size--I should
think thirty or forty feet in length. They are by Horace Vernet, and are
very effective. The apartments of the palace are perfectly regal. They
quite come up to one's preconceived ideas of the days of Louis le Grand.
I looked with interest at the door through which Marie Antoinette made
her escape, and whence she was dragged by the mob. The chamber of Louis
XIV. is just as it was in his time. Here the grand monarch died upon
that bed. There is the balustrade which fenced off the bed of majesty.
The ceiling of this room has the noblest painting in France. It is Jove
launching his bolts against the Titans, and was done by Paul Veronese.
Napoleon brought it from Venice. There seemed no end to the apartments.
We saw those of Madame Maintenon, the royal confessional, and the
dining-room of Louis XIV., which was the cabinet of Louis XVI. In this
room Louis XIV. entertained Moliere when he had been ill treated or
neglected by his ministers and courtiers. "I am told that the officers
of my household do not find that you were made to eat with them. Sit
down at this table, and let them serve us up breakfast." This was his
language to the great poet, when he had called him to his presence. The
king then helped him to a fowl's wing, and treated him in the most
gracious manner. He knew the worth of genius. The king could make a
marshal, but he could not make a poet. All the innumerable rooms have
beautiful paintings and works of art. One room, called the Saloon of the
Crusades, was delightfully interesting; and the great pictures of that
apartment did much to impress the events of the holy wars upon our
minds.
George was in ecstasies with the _souvenirs_ of his idol the emperor;
and as we shall leave him for five or six months in Paris, I expect
that, in addition to the vast amount of knowledge which he really
possesses of the history of Napoleon, he will return home posted up with
all the _on dits_ of the worshippers of the emperor.
The Theatre is very fine. It is quite large, and would be admired in any
capital. It was built by Louis XV., at the instance of Madame Pompadour.
It was Used by Louis Philippe, and we saw his seat.
The gardens are world renowned; so we _must_ admire them. They did not
quite come up to my notions. The fountains, statuary, ponds,
orange-trees, are all very grand; but I cannot say that I was as pleased
as the boys were. Perhaps I was weary; I know I was anxious. I had an
old and valued friend living in Versailles, and was unable to ascertain
her residence.
We went to the Grand and Petit Trianon. The great Trianon is a palace
with one story, and having two wings. The little Trianon has two
stories. Here royalty has loved to loiter when tired of the splendors of
the stupendous palace close by. Here are some exquisite paintings,
brought by Louis Philippe from the Louvre.
We repaired to a good _cafe_ close by the palace, had a satisfactory
dinner with Mr. Hodgson and his family, and then took our carriage for
Paris.
Our route to Versailles was through Passy, where our Dr. Franklin lived
in 1788, at No. 40 Rue Bass. Beranger resides in this village. It seems
a favorite resort for genius; for here have resided the Chancellor
D'Aguesseau, Boileau, Moliere, and Condorcet.
We passed through Sevres, where the beautiful china is manufactured, and
drove through the Park of St. Cloud, the palace being in sight.
On our return, we drove leisurely through the Bois de Boulogne. These
woods afford a fine opportunity to the Parisians for exercise, either on
horseback or in carriages, and it is to Paris what Hyde Park is to
London and the avenues are to New York, and much pleasanter than either.
Here have been fought most of the duels which, in other days, have been
so numerous in Paris, but which, I am glad to say, are getting into
disrepute. The boys will write you before we leave Paris.
Yours always,
J.O.C.
Letter 49.
PARIS.
DEAR CHARLEY:--
Our stay here at our present visit will be several days longer than we
expected. We have to get clothing and various articles which can be
obtained here to more advantage than in England or at home. We have been
to some large jewelry establishments and made selections of presents for
our absent but remembered friends. One morning we spent very pleasantly
at a celebrated depot of glass manufactures. The display was very large,
and also brilliant, and we made some pretty selections. The taste of the
French is very great, and a large part of this population must live by
furnishing the rest of the world with mere matters of _bijouterie_.
We have had the pleasure to meet several of the doctor's acquaintances
from America; and among others whom we have often met have been Rev. Dr.
Alexander, Rev. Dr. Ritchie, Hon. H.J. Raymond, Mr. G.P. Putnam, Mr.
Bunting, Mr. Herring, Mr. Howard, &c. I have been much gratified in
getting acquainted with Mr. Raymond, whom I have met several times. He
is quite a young-looking man for one who holds his important position of
speaker of the New York House of Assembly. I should not think him to be
more than twenty-six or twenty-seven, though perhaps he is thirty. Mr.
Putnam is the author of my favorite book, "The World's Progress,"--the
book of dates,--and one which I recommend you, Charley, always to keep
on your table, within reach, for reference.
If I live to return home, I have much to do that never before appeared
to me of so great importance. I want to become thoroughly conversant
with English and French history; for, in a certain sense, these
countries embody the history of the world. Not to know what happened
before we were born, is always to be children; and if my journey has
done me no other good, it has very clearly shown me how little I know,
and how very much I ought to understand, and must, if I would take my
place among intelligent, well-educated men. I am sure, too, that I have
acquired on this journey a desire to make improvement. Every where I
find the records of intellect and genius, and I cannot, for very shame,
be willing to go through life and enjoy the means of improvement,
without deriving profit. We have met with very kind attentions from Mr.
Hector Bossange, the great bookseller, who invited us to dinner. He is a
gentleman of great activity, and seems always engaged; and yet I have
noticed that such persons seem to have time for every one and every
thing. I have noticed this at home, as well as abroad. Some of these men
who have so much to do, and so many persons to see and be polite to,
must work very hard at times, or else they understand the way to get
through business in a patent method. These busy men seem to have read
every thing; and even in new books they keep up with the times. They
must do it, I guess, by remembering our old copy, that "spare minutes
are the golden sands of life."
George is going to stay here for four or five months, and the doctor is
busy in finding him a suitable home and getting him an outfit.
You would perhaps like to hear a little about the Hospital des
Invalides, where the old soldiers of France bring up when past labor. It
is a vast building, and covers sixteen acres, which, however, enclose
fifteen various courts. It is governed and managed by the senior marshal
of France, a lieutenant general, commandant of the hotel, a colonel
major, three adjutant majors, three sub-adjutant majors, one almoner,
two chaplains, one apothecary and ten assistants, twenty-six sisters of
charity, and two hundred and sixty servants. There are about one hundred
and seventy officers, and about three thousand fire hundred invalids in
all. This is a truly magnificent building, both architecturally
considered and in its interior arrangements. The council chamber is very
fine, and here are some admirable portraits and the best statue of
Napoleon that is extant. The dome is very grand, but is at present
invisible, on account of the alterations going on to complete the tomb
of Napoleon. This will be the grandest tomb, probably, in the world. The
sarcophagus is to rest on a platform, to which the access is by steps of
green marble.
[Illustration: Sarcophagus at Napoleon's Tomb, and Key]
Here is a good library and some MSS. of the two prime ministers, Sully
and Colbert; a good picture of Napoleon and Louis Philippe; the cannon
ball which killed Marshal Turenne, and his equestrian statue in gold and
silver.
My favorite stroll here is in the Garden of the Tuileries. I am never
weary of this place. Here are the finest flowers, the best walks, the
gayest company, the prettiest children, and the densest shade, if you
please to go into it, in Paris. Then, too, there are groups of statuary,
and fountains with lofty jet, and proud swans in the reservoirs. I
would like to have you walking in that thick forest growth; there is no
underbrush; I can see from one side to the other. After a long walk, you
come to the noble portals, guarded by lions couchant, and just beyond is
the spot where Louis XVI. was guillotined. I do not believe there is a
nobler view in Europe than now opens to the spectator. There before me
is the Obelisk of Luxor, which was brought from Egypt, and now stands in
the Place de la Concorde, its history, its removal, its present
position, all serve to delight me. In itself it is a noble object, and
my eye ever rests on it with pleasure.
Just think, Charley, that you are at my side: turn round, and look at
the gardens we have left. There, see the long, low Tuileries, the palace
of the Bourbons, the home of Napoleon, the residence of the citizen
king, and now the Palace National. Off to the right is the Seine and its
long line of quays; here is the bridge; and just across it is the
Chamber of the Assembly, with twelve Corinthian columns, I like this
building exceedingly. To our left is a long, stately range, known as the
Rue Rivoli, in which we reside; it has an arched arcade in front; for
foot passengers, and some hundreds of columns to support and adorn it.
At this end of it are public offices. Now turn and look at our left; and
see, a street cuts through this noble row, and at its end you see the
pride of the city, the Madeleine. There it is, all white, and its
stately columns tell of Greece. Now, if you turn your back upon the
Tuileries, you will gaze upon the open space of the Champs Elysees, and
look down along through that splendid avenue, and there see the finest
thing in France--Bonaparte's triumphal arch. One word about this arch.
It is the work of the emperor, who ordered its erection in 1806, when
the foundation was laid. In 1814 it was suspended, but in 1823 it was
resumed in honor of the Duke d'Angouleme's victories in Spain. In 1830
its original intention was adopted, and in 1836 it was completed, and
its cost was nearly eleven millions of francs. It is a vast arch, ninety
feet high and forty-five feet wide, with entablature and attic. Its
total height is one hundred and fifty-two feet, breadth one hundred and
thirty-seven feet, depth sixty-eight feet. On the fronts are colossal
groups, in which the figures are eighteen feet. All these are
historical, and tell of the great man in his fields of glory. You ascend
this wonderful work of art by two hundred and sixty steps, and get the
best view of Paris. Close by is the Hippodrome, of which some of us have
told you, I suppose, during our last visit.
At less than a mile from this place is the Chapel of St. Ferdinand,
built on the spot where the Duke of Orleans died, by a fall from his
carriage, in 1842. It is a small building of stone, fifty feet long, and
is of Gothic style. Here are many interesting objects--the marble group
descriptive of the dying prince, and at his head an angel in
supplication; this angel was the sculpture of his sister, the Princess
Marie. The painted windows are exquisite representations of the patron
saints of the royal family. Behind the altar is the room in which the
duke died, now used as the sacristy of the chapel. Here, too, is a
picture of the death bed. I am glad that I saw this, as the rest of the
party were not able to be there.
The great National Library is in the Rue Vivienne. The building is a
dark-looking affair, five hundred and forty feet long and one hundred
and thirty feet wide. Inside is a court three hundred feet by ninety,
and that is flanked with buildings. The library is in five sections:
first, manuscripts; second, printed books; third, engravings; fourth;
medals, &c.; fifth, marbles. Perhaps the best collection of early
printing that Europe can show is in this place. You will be surprised
when I tell you that there are here one million five hundred thousand
works. I cannot attempt to tell you the curiosities that are to be seen
here--gems, cameos, antiques, swords, armors, models, portraits, busts;
and then, as for autographs, why, a collector could not fail to break
the tenth commandment when he looked at the letters of this collection
in glass cases. The engravings alone are a study for months.