Perhaps no people in the world have been more accustomed to spectacular
surprises than they who perambulate the streets of the Mexican
metropolis. For the half-century preceding the time of which I write,
they had witnessed almost as many revolutions as years, seen blood
spilled till the stones ran red with it, and dead bodies lying before
their doors often for hours, even days, unremoved. As a consequence,
they are less prone to curiosity than the dwellers in European cities,
and the spectacle or incident that will stir their interest in any great
degree must needs be of an uncommon kind.
Rare enough was that they were called on to witness now--such of them as
chanced to be sauntering along the Calle de Plateros, where the
chain-gang was at work. They first saw a carriage--a handsome equipage
of the landau speciality--drawn by a pair of showy horses, and driven by
a coachman in smart livery, his hat cockaded, proclaiming the owner of
the turnout as belonging to the military or diplomatic service. Only
ladies, however, were in it--two of them--and the horses proceeding at a
rather leisurely pace. As several other carriages with ladies in them,
and liveried coachmen on the boxes, had passed before, and some seen
coming behind, there was nothing about this one to attract particular
attention; unless, indeed, the beauty of the two "senoritas" inside,
which was certainly exceptional. Both were young, and, if related, not
likely to be sisters; in contour of features, complexion, colour of eyes
and hair, everything different, even to contrast. But alike in that
each after her own style was a picture of feminine loveliness of the
most piquantly attractive kind; while their juxtaposition made it all
the more so, for they were seated side by side.
Such could not fail to draw the eyes of the street passengers upon them,
and elicit looks of admiration. So far from courting this, however,
they seemed desirous of shunning it. The day was one of the finest, the
atmosphere deliciously enjoyable, neither too warm nor too cold; other
carriages were open, yet the hoods of theirs met overhead, and the
glasses were up. Still, as these were not curtained they could be seen
through them. Some saw who knew them, and saluted; gentlemen by raising
the hat, lady acquaintances by a nod, a quivering of the fingers. For
it was the hour of promenade to the Alameda. Others to whom they were
unknown inquired whose carriage it was. But not a few noticed in the
faces of its fair occupants an expression which struck them as singular;
something of constraint or anxiety--the last so unlike what should have
been there.
And so all along the line of street, until the carriage came nearly
opposite the entrance gate of the Alameda, still going slowly; at which
the pampered, high-spirited horses seemed to chafe and fret. Just then,
however, they showed a determination to change the pace, or at all
events the direction, by making a sudden start and shy to the right;
which carried the off wheels nearly nave-deep into the ridge of mud
recently thrown out of the sewer.
Instinctively, or mechanically, the coachman pulled up. No one could
suppose designedly; since there was sufficient likelihood of his having
an overturn. Still, as the mud was soft, by bearing on the near rein,
with a sharp cut of the whip, he might easily clear the obstruction.
This was not done; and the spectators wondered why it was not. They had
already made up their minds that the balk was due to the coachman's
maladroit driving, and this further proof of his stupidity quite
exhausted their patience. Shouts assailed him from all sides, jeers,
and angry ejaculations.
"_Burro_!" (donkey) exclaimed one; a second crying out, "What a clumsy
_cochero_!" a third, "You're a nice fellow to be trusted with reins! A
rope tied to a pig's tail would better become you?"
Other like shafts, equally envenomed, were hurled at Josh's head; for it
scarce needs telling that he was the driver of the carriage, and the
ladies inside it his mistress and the Condesa Almonte. For all he
seemed but little to regard what was being said to him--indeed nothing,
having enough on hand with his restive horses. But why did he not give
them the whip, and let them have more rein! It looked as if that would
start them off all right again, and that was what every one was shouting
to him to do, he instead doing the very opposite, holding the animals in
till they commenced plunging.
The ladies looked sorely affrighted; they had from the first, for it was
all but the occurrence of an instant. Both had risen to their feet, one
tugging at the strap to get the sash down, the other working at the
handle of the door, which perversely refused to act, all the while
uttering cries of alarm.
Several of the passengers rushed to the door in the near side to assist
them, that on the off being unapproachable by reason of the open drain.
But on this also appeared rescuers--a pair of them--not street
promenaders, but two of the chain-gang! All muddy as these were, they
were advancing with as much apparent eagerness as the others--more in
reality--to release the imperilled senoritas. A proof that humanity may
exist even in the breast of a gaol-bird; and the spectators, pleased
with an exhibition of it, so rare and unexpected, were preparing to
applaud them enthusiastically.
Their admiration, however, received a rude and almost instantaneous
check, changing to wild astonishment, succeeded by equally wild
indignation. The _forzados_ got their door open first; but the ladies,
apparently terrified at the rough, unclean creatures, refused to go out
that way, and only shrank back. Luckily, the other was by this also
opened, and they made through it into the street. But not before the
two scavengers had leaped up into the carriage beside them, and, as if
angry at their earlier offer being declined, given them a rude shove
outward!
That was not all the spectators saw to astonish them. Other incidents
followed equally unlooked-for, and with lightning rapidity. One was
indeed of simultaneous occurrence; a second couple of the scavengers--
the _gigante y enano_--rushing towards the coachman's box, clambering up
to it, Rock flinging the dwarf before him as one would an old
carpet-bag, and mounting after. Then, jerking the reins and whip out of
Josh's hands--letting him still keep his seat, however,--he loosened the
one, and laid the lash of the other on the horses' hips, so sharply and
vigorously, as to start them at once into a gallop.
Meanwhile, the uncouth couple inside had pulled-to the doors, shutting
themselves in, and taken the seats late occupied by the elegantly
dressed ladies--a transformation so grotesque as to seem more dream than
reality. And so off all went, leaving behind a crowd as much amazed as
any that ever witnessed spectacle on the streets of the Mexican
metropolis.