Monseigneur Perraud had a reputation for freezing dignity which kept

many people aloof; but he talked quite freely with my husband. Dignity

he certainly possessed in an unusual degree, and the same might be said

of Mr. Hamerton, but it was no bar to interesting intercourse nor to

brotherly sympathy, as we found afterwards in sorrowful circumstances.

This first visit certainly enhanced the high opinion which each had

formed of the other, and subsequent meetings confirmed the interest they

found in each other's views and sentiments.

I mentioned Mr. Pickering in connection with the affair of the

"Autunois," and it may now be explained that after reading "Round my

House," he had fancied he should like to see the scenery described in

the book, as it would probably afford him paintable subjects. Although

the name of the neighboring town was not given, and though great changes

had been made by the construction of a railway since the publication of

the book, Mr. Pickering lighted upon Autun as the very place he was in

search of. He soon made my husband's acquaintance, and a friendship

between them was rapidly established.

Mr. Woolner, who had kept up for some months a brisk correspondence in

behalf of Mr. Hamerton's candidature, now heard that matters were not

going so smoothly as he had expected. He was told that the income would

not come up to the sum stated at first; that the formation of an art

museum was contemplated, in which case the duties of forming and keeping

it would devolve upon the professor. There was also a desire that the

students should receive technical instruction; and, lastly, it was

rumored that forty lectures a year would be required. In fact, Mr.

Hamerton began to regret that he had offered himself for the post

without knowing exactly what he would be expected to do.

Whilst in this frame of mind he was advised to go to Edinburgh in order

to call upon each of the electors. No one acquainted with his character

could have imagined for an instant that he would comply. "The electors,"

he said to me, "must be acquainted with my works; I have sent nearly

fifty testimonials given by eminent artists, men of letters, and

publishers; I consider this as sufficient to enable the electors to

judge of the capacities for which an art professor ought to be chosen.

If these are judged insufficient, my presence could not give them more

weight."

I find this simple entry in the diary: "July 20, 1880. Got news that I

was not elected;" and though he may have regretted the time wasted in

this fruitless attempt, I am convinced that he experienced a sensation

of delightful relief when no longer dreading encroachments upon his

liberty to work as he thought fit. [Footnote: It was also Mr. R.

Seeley's opinion when he wrote: "You have felt so much doubt as to the

effect of such a change of life upon your health that the decision may

come as a relief to you."] After all, there remained to him as a lasting

compensation the tokens of flattering regard for his character and of

appreciation of his talents given in the numerous testimonials by such

eminent persons as Mr. R. Browning, Sir F. Leighton, Sir J. E. Millais,

Sir John Gilbert, Mr. T. Woolner, Mr. G. F. Watts, Professor Seeley,

Professor Sidney Colvin, Professor Oliver, Mr. Mark Pattison, Mr. S.

Palmer, Mr. Orchardson, Mr. Marks, Mr. A. W. Hunt, Mr. Herkomer, Mr.

Vicat Cole, Mr. Alma Tadema, Sir G. Reid, Mr. W. E. Lockhart, Mr. J.

MacWhirter, Professor Legros, M. Paul Rajon, M. Leopold Flameng, etc.

The testimonials are too numerous to be given here, but they all agreed

in the expressed opinion that Mr. Hamerton would be "the right man in

the right place," or "the very man."

Although the "Life of Turner" had first appeared in the "Portfolio," it

was again well received by the public in book form, and greatly praised

by the press, particularly in America. The "Boston Courier" said:--

"We have found this volume thoroughly fascinating, and think that no

open-minded reader of 'Modern Painters' should neglect to read this

life. In it he will find Turner dethroned from the pinnacle of a

demi-god on which Ruskin had set him (greatly to the artist's

disadvantage); but he will also find him placed on another reasonably

high pedestal, where one may admire him intelligently and lovingly, in

spite of the defects in drawing, the occasional lapses in coloring,

and the other peculiarities which are made clear to his observation by

Mr. Hamerton's discussion."

He had found it a difficult subject to treat because of the paucity of

incidents in Turner's life; but the painter's genius had made so deep an

impression upon him in his earlier years that he had eagerly studied his

works and sought information about his personality from the friends who

had, at some time or other, been acquainted with the marvellous artist.

I believe that my husband hardly ever went to the National Gallery

without visiting the Turner Room, and that is saying much, for during

his sojourns in London he seldom missed going every day it was open, and

sometimes he went twice,--once in the morning, and again in the

afternoon. Great as was his admiration of Turner's oil pictures, I

believe it was equalled by his delight in the same master's water-colors

and drawings. When in the lower rooms, where they are exhibited, he

could hardly be prevailed upon to go upstairs again, and I had to plead

fatigue and hunger to recall him to the realities of life. Although his

appreciation of Constable was high, it could not be compared to what he

felt for Turner, because "Turner was so wide in range that he was the

opposite of Constable, whose art was the expression of intense affection

for one locality."

CHAPTER XV.

1880-1882.

Third edition of "Etching and Etchers."--Kew.--"The Graphic

Arts."--"Human Intercourse."

Once rid of the perturbation occasioned by the affair of the election,

Mr. Hamerton was free to devote himself energetically to the preparation

of a new and splendid edition of "Etching and Etchers," for which he

spared neither thought nor pains,--being generously entrusted by Messrs.

Macmillan with the necessary funds, and given _carte blanche_ for the

arrangement. Mr. Craik had said, in a letter dated Jan. 10, 1880: "We

are disposed to make it a very fine book, and not to grudge the outlay.

We must leave all the details for you to arrange." In another, of May

29, he said again: "We are particularly anxious to make it a beautiful

book; and I think the plan of making each edition completely different

from the preceding, gives it an interest and value that will make the

book always sought after. The first edition is a scarce and valuable

book. The second will rise in value."

Being allowed to do exactly as he liked, the author of "Etching and

Etchers" set to his task with delightful anticipation of the result.

At the same time he was also giving a good deal of time to the

annotation of certain engravings and etchings presented by himself and

some friends to the Manchester Museum, in which he took great interest.

When the vacation brought the boys home in August, it was decided to

have a trial trip on the Saône in the "Morvandelle;" but after behaving

well enough on the water, she filled and sank at anchor whilst her

captain was quietly enjoying dinner with his sons at the nearest inn.

The boat being made of wood, and divided into a great many compartments

to hold stores and luggage, let the water into those compartments as the

wood dried and shrank. It became, therefore, necessary to exchange the

wooden tubes for iron ones, for it was a double boat. So the crew had to

come back home, and Mr. Hamerton sent to a periodical a relation of his

impressions and adventures in this brief voyage and shipwreck.

In the summer there was an exhibition at the Glasgow Institute of Fine

Arts, and my husband was asked to send something if possible; but being

almost overwhelmed with work, he was obliged to decline the invitation.

Mr. R. Walker, the secretary of the Institute, wrote to say how sorry he

was not to have his name in the catalogue, and added:--

"Our collection of etchings is very good, and during the short time

we have been open the people of Glasgow have learned more about

etching than ever they knew before. Your book has been a source of

infinite delight to many here. A short time ago we all hoped to have

you among us. The loss is ours. Sometimes I trust we may have the

pleasure of seeing you in Glasgow. You would find us not altogether

wanting in appreciation of what is right in art, and there is an

increasing number of people here who believe that ledgers are not the

only books worth studying."

Although the "Portfolio" was now generally acknowledged to be at the

head of artistic periodicals in England, it was the desire of both its

editor and publisher to improve it still further. In one of his letters

Mr. Craik had said: "What an important part the 'Portfolio' is playing!

I believe you are affecting the public, and compelling them to recognize

the best things in a way they never did before. I think your conduct of

the monthly admirable."

It was now proposed to add to its artistic value by giving more original

etchings. Hitherto the peculiar uncertainty of the art of etching had

hindered the realization of this desire, for there being no certainty

about the quality of an etching from a picture, the risk is immensely

increased when a commission is given for an original etching. The

celebrity of an etcher and his previous achievements can only give hopes

that he _may_ be successful once more, but these hopes are far from a

certainty. Even such artists as Rajon and Jacquemart,--to mention only

two of the most eminent,--who constantly delighted the lovers of art by

masterpieces of skill and artistic feeling,--and were, moreover,

painters themselves,--were not safe against failure, and repeated

failure, even in copying.

When a commission has been given to an artist, the stipulated price has

to be paid whether the result is a success or a failure, unless the

artist himself acknowledges the failure--a very rare occurrence; at best

he admits that some retouching is desirable, and consents to undertake

it; but too often with the result that the plate loses all freshness.

Such considerations, and many more, made it necessary for the publisher

and editor of the "Portfolio" to discuss the subject at length and

without hurry. In addition to the affairs of the "Portfolio," there was

the choice of illustrations for the book on the Graphic Arts, which was

to be published by Mr. Seeley, and for which the presence of the author

in London was almost a necessity.

It was then decided that, both our boys having situations, we would take

our daughter with us and seek for lodgings somewhere on the banks of the

Thames, probably at Kew. Mr. and Mrs. Seeley, with their usual kindness,

invited us to stay with them until we had found convenient

accommodation.

We started in October, and as soon as we reached Paris we heard from our

younger son Richard that he was far from pleased with his present

situation. Instead of having to devote only a few hours a day to

teaching English, as he had been promised, the whole of his time was

taken up by the usual drudgery which is the lot of an under-master, so

that he could not study for himself. The first thing his father did was

to set him free from that bondage, and to devise the best means to

enable him to pursue the study of painting which the boy wished to

follow as a profession. They went together to consult Jean Paul Laurens,

who said that the most efficacious way would be--not to study under one

master, but to go to one of Juan's ateliers, where students get the

benefit of sound advice from several leading artists. In conformity with

this counsel my husband saw M. Juan, and after learning from him the

names of the artists visiting the particular atelier where Richard was

to study, he got him recommended to Jules Lefebvre and to Gérôme by an

intimate friend.

Paul Rajon, as usual, did not fail to call upon us, and we were very

sorry to notice a great change for the worse in his appearance. He said

he had been very ill lately, and was still far from well; he seemed to

have lost all his buoyancy of spirits, and to look careworn. He alluded

to pecuniary difficulties resulting from the early death of his

brother-in-law, which left his sister, and a child I believe, entirely

dependent upon him. Without reckoning on adverse fortune or ill-health,

he had built himself a house with a fine studio at Auvers-sur-Oise, to

escape from the incessant interruptions to his work when in Paris. But

of course the outlay had been heavier than he had intended it to be, and

these cares made him rather anxious. Being very good friends, we had

formerly received confidences from him about the dissatisfaction created

by the loneliness of his home and the want of a strong affection--in

spite of his success in society and the flattering smiles and speeches

of renowned beauties. In answer to my suggestion that marriage would

perhaps give him what he wanted, he had answered: "No doubt; but where

shall I find the wife? The girl I introduce into society as _my_ wife

must be very beautiful, else what would society think of my taste as an

artist?... She must also be above the average in intelligence, to meet

with the _élite_ and keep her proper place; and lastly, she must also be

wealthy, for my earnings are not sufficient for the frame I desire to

show her in." He was quite serious, but I laughed and said: "I beg to

alter my opinion of your wants. The wife you describe would be the mere

satisfaction of your vanity, and if you were fortunate enough to meet

with the gifts of beauty, intelligence, and wealth in the same person it

would be very exacting to expect that in addition to all these she

should be domestic, to minister to your home comforts, and sufficiently

devoted for your need of affection."

"I told you I thought it very difficult," he sighed.

"If you take other people's opinion about the choice of a wife," my

husband said, "you are not ripe for matrimony; no man ought to get

married unless he feels that he cannot help it,--that he could not live

happily without the companionship of a particular woman."

There had been an interval of a few years between this conversation and

our present meeting; but M. Rajon had not forgotten it, for he said with

a shade of sadness: "It is now, Mrs. Hamerton, that I feel the want of a

domestic and devoted wife, such as you advised me to choose; but

marriage is out of the question. I am an invalid."

We tried to cheer him up, and my husband's serene philosophy seemed to

do him good. He repeated to Paul Rajon his usual comparison of the

events of life to a very good cup of coffee to which a pinch of salt is

always added before we are allowed to taste it. "Your reputation and

talent," he said, "make a capital cup of coffee; but your illness has

seasoned it with rather a heavy pinch of salt."

The journey to England was got through without any serious accident to

my husband's health, but we had to be very careful in adhering to our

rules of slow trains and night travelling and frequent stoppages.

It was the first visit of our daughter to England, and her father

watched her impressions with great interest. She spoke English timidly

and reluctantly; but Mrs. Seeley was so kindly encouraging that she

overcame her timidity.

Mr. Seeley received us in his pretty, newly built house at Kingston,

which, being quite in the country and very quiet, suited my husband's

tastes admirably. The proximity of a beautiful park was very tempting

for rambles, and when at leisure we much enjoyed going all together for

a stroll under its noble trees. Mr. Seeley and his friend sometimes went

off to London together in the morning, but it was more desirable for my

husband to go to town only in the afternoon, because he felt less and

less nervous as the day wore on, and was quite himself in the evening.

We left Kingston to go and stay for a few days with Mr. and Mrs.

Macmillan. The evenings after Mr. Macmillan's return from business were

very animated with conversation and music.

Sometimes Mr. Macmillan gave us some Scotch and Gaelic songs with

remarkable pathos and power; and invariably, after every one else had

retired, he remained talking intimately, often confidentially, with my

husband far into the night.

A pretty incident occurred before we left Knapdale. One afternoon we

found Mrs. Macmillan very busy putting the finishing touches to an

embroidered and be-ribboned baby's frock, intended as a present to her

husband's first grandchild, on his first visit to Knapdale, which was to

be on that very day. After dinner the little man made his appearance in

the decorated frock, and took his place upon his grandfather's

shoulders. Then we all formed a procession, headed by the still erect

form of the grandsire supporting the infant hope of the family, and

leading us--parents, relatives, and guests--to the cheerful domain of

the cook. She proudly received the company, standing ladle in hand, by

an enormous earthen vessel containing a tempting mixture, in which

candied fruits, currants, and spices seemed to predominate. We were

expected, every one, to bring this medley to greater perfection by

turning over a portion of it with the ladle. It was duly offered first

to the little stranger, whose grandsire seized and plunged it into the

savory depths, whilst the tiny baby hand was tenderly laid upon his own.

The second part of the ceremony--tasting--had likewise to be performed

by proxy, for the young scion of the house peremptorily refused to

trifle with any temptation in the form of mincemeat. We all in

succession performed the ancient rite, and my husband said to me

afterwards what a capital subject for a picture of family portraits the

scene would afford. The contrast in the attire of the cook and her maids

with the toilettes of the ladies, together with the picturesque

background of the bright kitchen utensils, made a subject in the style

of an old Dutch master, with a touch of modern sentiment.

After seeing different places on the banks of the Thames we decided

again for Kew, but this time we required larger lodgings--not only on

account of Mary, but also for Miss Susan Hamerton and our cousins, Ben

and Annie Hinde, whom we had invited to join us there. They had gladly

accepted the invitation, and our meeting was happy and cheerful. We had

been very fortunate in our lodgings, which were spacious, clean, and

with a good view of the Green. Our landlady was a very respectable and

obliging person, and she let us have, when we wished, the use of a

chaise and a fast-trotting little pony, which greatly added to Aunt

Susan's enjoyment of the country, for her nephew drove her to the

prettiest places in the neighborhood, and through Richmond Park whenever

the weather allowed it. The beautiful gardens received almost a daily

visit from us, and were a most agreeable as well as a convenient resort

for our aged aunt, as she could either walk in the open grounds when it

was mild enough, or else visit the numerous hot-houses if she found the

outside air too keen for her.

We had been fortunate in this choice of Kew for our temporary residence;

not only did we like the place in itself, but we met with so hospitable

and flattering a reception from several resident families, that they

contrived to make us feel unlike strangers among them, and ever after,

our thoughts turned back to that time with mingled feelings of regret,

pleasure, and gratitude; and whenever we came to contemplate the

possibility of moving to England, Kew was always the place named as

being preferred by both of us.

Here we again met Professor Oliver, whom my husband had known since he

came to Kew alone for the first time. Being greatly interested in

painting, and possessing a collection of fine water-colors by Mr. Alfred

Hunt, he took pleasure in showing them to Mr. Hamerton, as well as the

Herbarium, of which he was Director.

Professor Church and his wife showed themselves most friendly and

untiringly hospitable. Very interesting and distinguished people were to

be met at their house, where the master was ever willing to display

before his guests some of his valuable collections of jewels, rare

tissues, old laces, and Japanese bronzes. We often had the pleasure of

meeting at this friendly house Mr. Thiselton Dyer, now Director

of Kew Gardens, and his wife, the daughter of Sir John Hooker--a most

charming person, who reminded both of us of the lovely women

immortalized by Reynolds.

[Illustration]

The third edition of "Etching and Etchers," now on sale, had fulfilled

all expectations, and was universally admired and praised. It was a

great satisfaction to the author, who had never before enjoyed such a

complete recognition. His reputation and popularity increased rapidly,

and if he had liked he would have been a good deal lionized; but

although far from insensible to this success, he remained true to his

studious habits--going with Mr. Seeley to the National Gallery, British

or Kensington Museums, to choose illustrations for the "Graphic Arts,"

or quietly writing at his lodgings, and only accepting invitations from

his friends and publishers.

In December Mr. Macmillan gave a dinner at the Garrick Club in honor of

the author of "Etching and Etchers," who was warmly congratulated by the

other guests invited to meet him.

I have still in my possession the menu belonging to Mr. Alma Tadenia who

said to my husband: "I dare say Mrs. Hamerton would like to have a

_souvenir_ of this evening--present her with this in my name," and he

handed his menu, on the back of which he had quickly and cleverly drawn

a little likeness of himself in caricature, and the guests had signed

their names on it. A facsimile is given on the opposite page.

As he had given us an invitation to visit his curious house we did not

fail to go, and Mary was especially attracted by the famous grand piano,

inscribed inside with the signatures of the renowned musicians who had

performed upon it. Knowing that our daughter was seriously studying

music, Mrs. Alma Tadema generously expressed the hope of seeing sometime

the signature of Miss Hamerton by the side of the other names.

My husband also took Mary to Mrs. Woolner's, and she enjoyed greatly the

society of the children, who spoke French very creditably, and who were

interested in the details she could give them about French life and

ways. They took her to their father's studios, and showed her his works.

When dinner-time came, however, she was unprepared for being waited upon

by her new friends, and in consequence felt somewhat ill at ease. It was

a fancy of Mr. Woolner's to make his children wait upon his guests. They

offered bread and wine, and directed the maids, their duty consisting

chiefly in seeing that every guest received perfect attendance. It

reminded one of the pages' service in mediaeval times, and was accepted

by people of mature age as a gracious courtesy of their host, though it

proved rather embarrassing to a girl of fifteen. I don't know how long

the custom prevailed, but I did not notice it in succeeding years.

Our cousin, Ben Hinde, had joined us only for a few days, his duties as

a clergyman not allowing of a long absence, but our meeting had been

very pleasant and cordial. He had left with us his sister Annie, to whom

my husband endeavored to show what was most worthy of attention in the

metropolis. And just as we were thus enjoying our fragrant "cup of

coffee," the "pinch of salt" was thrown into it with a heavy hand--for

we heard from Richard that he was lying so dangerously ill that he could

not move in bed. He had only written a few words in pencil to let us

know that the doctor thought our presence unnecessary, because the

danger would be past, or the illness prove fatal, before we could

arrive.

Of course my first impulse was to rush to my poor boy's bedside; but

what was to become of Mary--a girl of fifteen--unused to English ways,

and speaking English still imperfectly? Perhaps our aunt, who was to

leave us in a few days, would stay a little longer, though the approach

of Christmas made it imperative for her companion to get back to the

vicarage as soon as possible. But my husband?... Could I think of

leaving him a prey to this terrible anxiety, and to all the dangers of a

return of the old nervous attacks? I saw how he dreaded the mere

possibility, though he never said a word to influence my decision, but

the threatening insomnia and restlessness had already made their

appearance, and warned me that I ought to stay near him.

I wrote to my best friend in Paris, begging her to send her own doctor

to our poor boy, and to let me know the whole truth immediately. The

answer was reassuring--the crisis was past; there was nothing to fear

now, only the patient would remain weak for some time, and would require

great care. His friends--particularly one of them, a student of

medicine--had nursed him intelligently and devotedly. As soon as he

could take a little food my friend sent him delicacies and old wines,

and when he could bear the railway he went to his grandmother's to await

our return home.

We breathed again, and Aunt Susan and Annie left us comparatively quiet

in mind.

My husband now went on with his work as fast as possible, for he longed

to see his younger son again. When his notes for the "Graphic Arts" were

completed, we made a round of visits to take leave of our friends, and

after another short stay at Knapdale, where we had the pleasure of

meeting Mr. Lockyer, and another very pleasant pilgrimage to Mr. and

Mrs. Palmer's hermitage, we set off for Paris.

Mr. Seeley wrote shortly after our arrival in the French capital about

several matters connected with the "Portfolio," and added: "How will you

be able to settle down again in that little Autun? You will feel (as

Robert Montgomery said of himself in Glasgow) like an oak in a

flower-pot."

No, the oak liked to feel the pure air of the Morvan hills blowing about

its head, and to spread its branches in unconfined space. It was in

great crowded cities that it felt the pressure of the flower-pot.

On arriving at home we found Richard well again, and gifted with an

extraordinary appetite--which was the restorative he most needed, having

grown very thin and weak through his illness.

My husband had been very desirous to present me with a _souvenir_ of the

success of "Etching and Etchers," and pressed me to choose a trinket,

either a bracelet or a brooch; but I thought what I possessed already

quite sufficient, and though very sensible of his kind thoughtfulness, I

said that if he liked to make me a present, I would choose something

useful,--a silk dress, for instance. "But that would not be a present,"

he said; "when you want a dress you buy it. I should like to offer you

some pretty object which would last."

I knew that he liked to see me--and ladies in general--wearing jewels;

not in great quantity, but simply as a touch of finish to the toilette.

When I was young, he would have liked me (had it been possible) to dress

always in white, and the fashions not being then so elaborate as they

have become, it was easy enough in summer-time and in the country to

indulge his taste. So in warm days I often wore a white muslin dress,

quite plain, relieved only by a colored sash. If the sash happened to be

green, he liked it to be matched by a set of crystal beads of the same

color, which he had brought me from Switzerland when he had gone there

with his aunt and uncle. When the ribbon was red, I was to wear corals,

and with a blue one lapis-lazuli.

At last he remembered that I had admired some plain dead-gold bracelets

of English make that we had been looking at together, not far from the

National Gallery, and said he would be glad if I would choose one of

them. I had, however, taken the same resolution about jewels as his own

about pictures, and that was, to admire what was beautiful, but never to

buy, because it was beyond our means. The resolution, once taken, left

no way open to temptation. Still, I did not mean to deny myself the

pleasure of accepting his proffered present, only I did not want it to

be expensive, and since I had a sufficiency of jewels, "would he give me

a pretty casket to put them in?" "Yes," he readily assented. And when I

opened the casket of fair olive-wood, with the delicately wrought nickel

clasps and lock, I found a folded paper laid on the dark-blue velvet

tray, and having opened it read what follows--I need not say with what

emotions.

"Here in this empty casket, instead of a diamond or pearl,

Instead of a gem I leave but a little rhyme.

She remembers the brooch and the bracelet I gave her when she was a

girl.

Deep blue from beyond the sea, not paler from lapse of time.

She will put them here in the casket, the ultramarine and the gold;

And if such a thing might be, I would give them to her twice over;

Once in my youthful hope, and now again when I'm old,

But alike in youth or in age with the heart and the soul of a lover."

This note is entered in the diary:--

"January 1, 1881. Faceva i miei doni alla sposa, alla figlia, al mio

figlio Stefano. La sposa era felicissima di ricevere la sua cassetta."

Roberts Brothers had heard that a new book was in preparation, and they

wrote in January, 1881:--

"Your third edition of 'Etching and Etchers' is really a magnificent

specimen of book-making, and we understand two hundred copies have been

sold in America. At all events, whatever the number sold, it is not to

be had. We should like to have the American edition of the 'Graphic

Arts,' and should be glad to receive the novel when it is ready."

But the novel had been put aside, the author being doubtful if it

equalled "Marmorne" in quality. The whole of his time for writing was

devoted to the "Graphic Arts," and the remainder to painting from

nature, often with Mr. Pickering, and to the consideration of the

necessary alterations to the boat in view of a summer cruise on the

Saône. The reading of Italian was resumed pretty regularly, whilst the

diary was kept in that language.

Early in the spring Mr. Seeley wrote:--

"I am afraid it is indispensable that we should meet in Paris, as the

selection of engravings for reproduction is very important, though, like

you, I grudge the loss of time. But the book is an important one, and we

must do our very best to make it a success."

It was then decided that my husband should go to Paris with Richard, and

they started on May 4, stopped a day at Sens to see the cathedral again,

and to call upon Madame Challard (who had become a widow), and arrived

in Paris at night.

The entries in the note-book (kept in Italian) record his visits to the

Salon, to the Louvre, and to various public buildings. Also to the

Bibliothèque, to study the works of the École de Fontainebleau, and to

an exhibition of paintings in imitation of tapestry, which much

interested him.

He also went with Richard to see Munkacsy's picture of "Christ before

Pilate," and notes Richard's astonishment at it. He considered it

himself as one of the finest of existing pictures. He also expresses the

great pleasure he derived from Jacquemart's water-colors, their

brilliancy and sureness of execution.

The four following days having been very busy, received only this short

note, "In Parigi con Seeley;" then the fifth has, "Seeley e partito sta

mattina."

The succeeding entries record further visits to the Salon, the Louvre,

and Bibliothèque; but on the return journey, at Chagny on the 19th, he

notes that he has received sad news of the death of M. de Saint Victor,

in a duel with M. Asselin. It was only too true, and had happened on a

day which was to have been a _fête_, for Madame de Saint Victor, whose

daughter went to the same school as ours, had invited both myself and

Mary, with a few others school-fellows and their mothers, to lunch at

the Château de Monjeu, of which her husband was Régisseur. The

unfortunate lady did not know what had passed between her husband and a

gentleman of the locality who was trespassing on the grounds of the

château. M. de Saint Victor considered himself insulted, and challenged

M. Asselin; he, moreover, insisted upon choosing the sword as a

weapon--the most dangerous of all in a serious duel--and on the morning

which should have been festive and mirthful, he fell dead in the wood

near his home, killed by a sword-thrust from his skilful adversary.

As soon as he was back home, Mr. Hamerton set to work regularly at the

"Graphic Arts." In the diary this phrase is repeated like a litany:

"Worked with great pleasure at my book, the 'Graphic Arts.'" But at

the same time there is a complaint that it prevents the mind from being

happily disposed for artistic work. I have already said how difficult it

was for him to turn from one kind of occupation to another. Here is a

confirmation of this fact:--

"I lost the whole of the day in attempting to make a drawing for an

etching. Was not in the mood. It is necessary to have a certain warmth

and interest in a subject--which I have lost, but hope to recover. For a

long time past all my thoughts have turned upon my literary work."

It is easy for readers of the "Graphic Arts" to realize what an amount

of knowledge and preparation such a book required; and to present so

much information in a palatable form was no less than a feat. Still, the

author took great delight in his work. As in the case of "Etching and

Etchers," he was encouraged by the publisher, who wrote on June, "I mean

to take a pride in the book." It was exactly the sort of work which

suited him--sufficiently important to allow the subjects to be treated

at length when necessary, and worthy of the infinite care and thought he

liked to bestow upon his studies. In this case, wonderful as it seems,

he had himself practised all the arts of which he speaks, with the

exception of fresco. As to the other branches of art, namely,

pen-and-ink, silver-point, lead-pencil, sanguine, chalk, charcoal, water

monochrome, oil monochrome, pastel, painting in oil, painting in

water-colors, wood-engraving, etching and dry-point, aquatint and

mezzotint, lithography, he had--more or less--tried every one of them.

And though he did not give sufficient practice to the burin to acquire

real skill, still he did not remain satisfied till he could use it.

The same feeling of conscientiousness led him to become acquainted with

all the different processes of reproduction so much in vogue, and he was

ever anxious to learn all their technical details.

It was hoped that the "Graphic Arts" might be published at the end of

the year, and in order to be ready, the author put aside all other work,

excepting that of the "Portfolio;" but he longed for a short holiday,

and meant to take it on the Saône. He went to Chalon to a boat-builder,

and explained the changes to be made in the "Morvandelle," set the men

to work, and returned to his book.

He had begun to suffer from insomnia, and Mr. Seeley wrote:--

"Probably you are right in saying that yachting is a necessity for you;

but for the enjoyment of it you are badly placed at Autun. You must look

after that cottage at Cowes, which I suggested some time ago; and we

must set up a yacht between us; only, unluckily, I am always seasick in

a breeze."

Certainly the situation of Autun was not favorable to yachting, the

streams about it being only fit for canoeing; but the broad Saône was

not far off, and as Chalon was my husband's headquarters when cruising,

he was not disinclined to the short journey which afforded an

opportunity for visiting my mother and my brother, who lived there.

My husband had thought that a river voyage would be charming with R. L.

Stevenson as a companion, and that they might, perhaps, produce a work

in collaboration, so he had made the proposal, and here is part of the

answer:--

"RINNAUD COTTAGE, PITLOCHRY, PERTHSHIRE.

"MY DEAR MR. HAMMERTON,--(There goes the second M: it is a certainty.)

Thank you for your prompt and kind answer, little as I deserved it,

though I hope to show you I was less undeserving than I seemed. But just

might I delete two words in your testimonial? The two words 'and legal'

were unfortunately winged by chance against my weakest spot, and would

go far to damn me.

"It was not my bliss that I was interested in when I was married; it was

a sort of marriage _in extremis_; and if I am where I am, it is thanks

to the care of that lady who married me when I was a mere complication

of cough and bones, much fitter for an emblem of mortality than a

bridegroom.

"I had a fair experience of that kind of illness when all the women (God

bless them I) turn round upon the streets and look after you with a look

that is only too kind not to be cruel. I have had nearly two years of

more or less prostration. I have done no work whatever since the

February before last, until quite of late. To be precise, until the

beginning of the last month, exactly two essays. All last winter I was

at Davos; and indeed I am home here just now against the doctor's

orders, and must soon be back again to that unkindly haunt 'upon the

mountains visitant--there goes no angel there, but the angel of death.'

The deaths of last winter are still sore spots to me.... So you see I am

not very likely to go on a 'wild expedition,' cis-Stygian at least. The

truth is, I am scarce justified in standing for the chair, though I hope

you will not mention this; and yet my health is one of my reasons, for

the class is in summer.

"I hope this statement of my case will make my long neglect appear less

unkind. It was certainly not because I ever forgot you or your unwonted

kindness; and it was not because I was in any sense rioting in

pleasures.

"I am glad to hear the catamaran is on her legs again; you have my

warmest wishes for a good cruise down the Saône: and yet there comes

some envy to that wish; for when shall I go cruising? Here a sheer hulk,

alas! lies R. L. S. But I will continue to hope for a better time,

canoes that will sail better to the wind, and a river grander than the

Saône.

"I heard, by the way, in a letter of counsel from a well-wisher, one

reason of my town's absurdity about the chair of Art: I fear it is

characteristic of her manners. It was because you did not call upon the

electors!

"Will you remember me to Mrs. Hamerton and your son? and believe me,"

etc., etc.

In September we had the pleasure of a visit from Miss Betham-Edwards,

and the acquaintance ripened into friendship.

Having brought the "Graphic Arts" satisfactorily forward, my husband

thought that he might indulge in the longed-for holiday on the Saône. He

expected to find everything ready at Chalon, and to have only to

superintend the putting together of the sections of the boat. He was,

however, sorely disappointed on finding that nothing had been done, and

that he must spend several days in pushing the workmen on, instead of

sailing pleasantly on the river. After a week of worry and irritation

the boat was launched, and the two boys having joined their father on

board, they went together as far as Tournus, after spending the first

night at Port d'Ouroux, where they had found a nice little inn, with

simple but good accommodation. In the afternoon Stephen went back to

Autun to fetch his things, for he was obliged to be at his post on the

first of October. Richard proceeded with his father down the Saône to

Mâcon. The diary says:--

"Sept. 30. A beautiful voyage it was. The loveliest weather, favorable

wind, strong, delightful play of light and color on water. I had not

enjoyed such boating since I left Loch Awe."

There are these notes in the diary:--

"Nov. 26. Corrected the last proof of the 'Graphic Arts,' and sent it

off with a new finish, as the other seemed too abrupt. Spent a good deal

of time over the finish, writing it twice."

"Nov. 27. Worked all day as hard as possible at index to 'Graphic Arts,'

and got it finished at midnight."

He was in time, but Mr. Seeley wrote:--

"Now Goupil's delay [about the illustrations] threatens to become most

serious. We have now orders for 1050 copies, large and small, so we have

already surpassed the sale of 'Etching and Etchers,' third edition."

Alas! there was a very distressing item of news in the letter dated

December 1:--

"The enclosed letter from Goupil is a complete upset. It seems that the

printing of the Louvre drawings [Footnote: Two drawings by Zucchero and

Watteau. The latter was in black, red, and white chalk. The reproduction

was printed from one plate, the different colored inks being rubbed in

by the printer. Only about ten prints could be taken in a day.] will

take five or six months.

"We must decide at once what to do. This is one plan. If we can get all

the other illustrations ready, then to publish as soon as we can,

putting these three plates in the large paper copies only, and in the

others a slip of paper explaining how tedious the printing is, and

promising that these illustrations shall be delivered in the spring to

any purchaser who produces the slip.

"This is one plan. If you prefer it, please telegraph _Yes_.

"The other plan is to postpone the publication, and bring out the

complete book in the spring. If you prefer this, please telegraph _No_.

"I leave the matter entirely in your hands. Pray decide as you judge

best."

This delay was most provoking after the hard work the author had given

to the book to have it out in good time, and also because the orders

were increasing; they had now reached 315 copies for the large edition,

and 868 of the small one. Still, there was no help for it, and the

publication must be postponed rather than give an imperfect book to the

public. Both author and publisher agreed in that decision.

On December 17, 1881, Mr. Hamerton received the following letter:--

"19 WARWICK CRESCENT.

"DEAR MR. HAMERTON,--You will do me an honor indeed by the dedication

you propose, and my own little worthiness to receive it becomes of

secondary importance when taken with the exceeding importance of the

truth you insist upon in connection with it--a truth always plain to me,

however moderately I may have been able to illustrate its value.

"Thank you very much: you will add to my obligation by the visit you so

kindly promise.

"I return you the best of Christmas wishes, and am ever, dear Mr.

Hamerton,

"Yours most truly,

"ROBERT BROWNING."

I transcribe the dedication to explain Mr. Browning's letter.

"TO ROBERT BROWNING.

"I wish to dedicate this book to you as the representative of a class

which ought to be more numerous,--the class of large-minded persons who

take a lively interest in arts which are not specially their own. No one

who had not carefully observed the narrowing of men's minds by

specialities could believe to what a degree it goes. Instead of being

open, as yours has always been, to the influences of literature, in the

largest sense, as well as to the influences of the graphic arts and

music, the specialized mind shuts itself up in its own pursuit so

exclusively that it does not even know what is nearest to its own closed

doors. We meet with scholars who take no more account of the graphic

arts than if they did not exist, and with painters who never read; but

what is still more surprising, is the complete indifference with which

an art can be regarded by men who know and practise another not widely

removed from it. One may be a painter and yet know nothing whatever

about any kind of engraving; one may be a skilled engraver, and yet work

in lifelong misunderstanding of the rapid arts. If the specialists who

devote themselves to a single study had more of your interest in the

work of others, they might find, as you have done, that the quality

which may be called open-mindedness is far from being an impediment to

success, even in the highest and most arduous of artistic and

intellectual pursuits."

Mr. Hamerton was so adverse to puffing of any kind and to noise being

made about his name, that he neglected the most honest means of having

it brought forward to public notice; for instance, he had been asked in

November, 1881, for notes on his life for a book to be entitled "The

Victorian Era of English Literature," and had forgotten all about it. He

had to be reminded in 1882 that he had promised to send the notes.

I suppose that the following letter from R. L. Stevenson must have been

received about this time. It is almost impossible to ascertain, as--like

the others--it bears no date.

"VILLA AM STEIN, DAVOS PLATZ, GRISONS, SWITZERLAND.

"MY DEAR MR. HAMERTON,--My conscience has long been smiting me, till it

became nearly chronic. My excuses, however, are many and not pleasant.

Almost immediately after I last wrote to you, I had a hemorreage (I

can't spell it), was badly treated by a doctor in the country, and have

been a long while picking up--still, in fact, have much to desire on

that side. Next, as soon as I got here, my wife took ill; she is, I

fear, seriously so; and this combination of two invalids very much

depresses both.

"I have a volume of republished essays coming out with Chatto and

Windus; I wish they would come, that my wife might have the reviews to

divert her. Otherwise my news is nil. I am up here in a little chalet,

on the borders of a pine-wood, overlooking a great part of the Davos

Thai: a beautiful scene at night, with the moon upon the snowy mountains

and the lights warmly shining in the village. J. A. Symonds is next door

to me, just at the foot of my Hill Difficulty (this you will please

regard as the House Beautiful), and his society is my great stand-by.

"Did you see I had joined the band of the rejected? 'Hardly one of us,'

said my _confrères_ at the bar.

"I was blamed by a common friend for asking you to give me a

testimonial: in the circumstances he thought it was indelicate. Lest, by

some calamity, you should ever have felt the same way, I must say in two

words how the matter appeared to me. That silly story of the election

altered in no tittle the value of your testimony: so much for that. On

the other hand, it led me to take a quite particular pleasure in asking

you to give it; and so much for the other. I trust even if you cannot

share it, you will understand my view.

"I am in treaty with Bentley for a life of Hazlitt; I hope it will not

fall through, as I love the subject, and appear to have found a

publisher who loves it also. That, I think, makes things more pleasant.

You know I am a fervent Hazlittite; I mean, regarding him as _the_

English writer who has had the scantiest justice. Besides which, I am

anxious to write biography; really, if I understand myself in quest of

profit, I think it must be good to live with another man from birth to

death. You have tried it and know.

"How has the cruising gone? Pray remember me to Mrs. Hamerton and your

son, and believe me,

"Yours very sincerely,

"ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON."

Throughout this year the diary was kept in Italian, and the reading of

Italian books was pretty regularly kept up; among them were Olanda,

Petrarch, and Ariosto. He soon abandoned Petrarch, whom he did not value

much; here is the reason: "I prefer the clear movement of Ariosto to all

the conceits of the sonnet-maker."

"Human Intercourse" was begun, and to save time, two copies were written

simultaneously--one for England and the other for America--by inserting

a sheet of black copying paper between two sheets of thin "Field and

Tuer" paper, and writing with a hard lead pencil and sufficient pressure

to obtain a duplicate on the page placed underneath. Roberts Brothers

were very desirous of seeing this new work, and had written: "We should

like to make 'Human Intercourse' a companion volume to the 'Intellectual

Life,' and the title is so suggestive of something good that we hope you

will hasten the good time of its appearance."

The publication of the "Graphic Arts" had been fixed for March 1, but a

copy having been got ready at the end of January, it was sent as a

compliment to Mr. Sagar of the Burnley Mechanics' Institution, and Mr.

Seeley said: "The Burnley people are delighted at having had the first

sight of the 'Graphic Arts.' Mr. Sagar writes that from what he saw of

it, he has no hesitation in saying that it is the best book you have

written, and does great credit to everybody concerned in its

production."

The book was highly appreciated by those competent to judge and

understand the subjects. Mr. Haden wrote about it a letter of fourteen

pages. Though he calls it himself "an unconscionably long letter," it is

most interesting throughout, but I only quote a few passages from it.

"I have been reading the 'Graphic Arts' with great interest. It is, or

rather must have been, a formidable undertaking. I like your chapter on

'Useful and Aesthetic Drawing.' Your insistence on keeping the two

things separate, and claiming for each its value, is a great

lesson--read, too, just at the right time.

"And in your 'Drawing for Artistic Pleasure,' the great lesson there is,

that true artistic pleasure can only be excited in others by the artist

that _knows_ what he is about, though he does not express it. Did you

ever see a drawing or an etching by Victor Hugo? Hugo is a poet, and

affects to be an artist. But his knowledge of what is or should be

_organic_, in every picture, is so lamentably absent, that his poetry

(sought to be imparted in that shape) goes for nothing.

"In 'Right and Wrong in Drawing,' which is excellently written, the

concluding paragraph is admirable. The chapter on 'Etching and

Dry-Point' is charmingly written, easy and refined in diction, and set

down _con amore_."

Then came this letter from Mr. Browning:--

"19 WARWICK CRESCENT, W. _March_ 6, 1882.

"DEAR MR. HAMERTON,--I thought your dedication a great honor to me, and

should have counted it such had it simply prefaced a pamphlet. To

connect it with this magnificent book is indeed engraving my name on a

jewel, instead of stone or even marble.

"Your sumptuous present reached me two days ago--and will be consigned

to 'my library,' when the best jewel I boast of is disposed of on my

dressing-table among articles proper to the place: no, indeed--it shall

be encased as a jewel should, on a desk for all to see how the author

has chosen to illustrate the [painting- and] drawing-room of the

author's admirer and (dares he add?) friend,

"ROBERT BROWNING."

Mr. Alfred Hunt also wrote: "I can see that the plan of the book is

admirable. I often want to know something about art processes which I

don't practise myself, and which I might be stimulated into trying if I

was only younger."

The sale of the book was rapid, and before six weeks had elapsed so few

copies remained that the prices were raised to fifteen guineas for the

large edition, and to seven and a half guineas for the small one. But

the author had overworked himself, and hurry had brought back the old

enemy--insomnia. Mr. Seeley, who had lately suffered from lumbago,

wrote:--

"Sleeplessness is a far worse thing than lumbago. You are right in

taking it seriously. I have little doubt, however, that by avoiding

overwork--and especially hurried work--and getting plenty of exercise,

you will overcome the tendency. If you ever do another big book, we must

take two or three years for it, and have no sort of hurry. I once

thought of the 'Landscape Painters' as a good subject for a big book."

In a subsequent letter Mr. Seeley gives a great deal of thoughtful

consideration to what might suit his friend's requirements:--

"If 'Landscape Painting' is a subject that you would thoroughly like to

take up, please tell me what travelling you would consider needful, and

as far as expense goes I will try to meet you. Perhaps for one thing we

might go to Italy together, if you are not afraid of being dragged about

in a chain.

"I thought of the Rhône book again, as likely to suit your present state

of health."

In the current year, however, it was impossible to undertake the voyage,

because "Human Intercourse" was to be the important work. As usual with

a new book, the author had had a struggle at the beginning. He

attributed the difficulty to the want of subdivisions in the chapters,

and when he had adopted a more elastic system than is usual in a

treatise, the obstacle disappeared. He has himself explained this, more

in detail, to his readers, in the preface of the book.

There is no doubt that this long struggle had increased the tendency to

sleeplessness, and a little cruise on the Saône was thought to be the

best remedy. So he left for Mâcon at the beginning of April, and after

putting the several parts of the boat together, and getting provisions

on board, he started with Stephen on a voyage down the Saône. On their

way they could see with a telescope all the details of Mont Blanc. At

Port d'Arciat they picked up a friend, and after a "good little repast

with a Good Friday _matelote_," a few sketches were made at Thoissey and

Beauregard.

The change and exercise in the open air did my husband a great deal of

good, and he had regained sleep when he returned home.

There being still a good deal of leakage in the "Morvandelle," though a

thick kind of flannel had been pressed into the interstices, it was

decided to use the wooden parts to make two small boats for the pond,

one for Stephen and the other for Richard, the old ones being rotten.

There was much pleasurable planning for my husband in the scheme, and

also some manual work for rainy weather. He was exceedingly careful and

handy in doing joiner's work, and every one in the house applied to him

for delicate repairs, and--when he had time--they were done to

perfection; only, he seldom had time, and it was a standing joke that he

must have a private museum somewhere to which the objects confided to

him found their way. In reality, he had to do a good deal of manual

labor of different kinds, on account of our country life, which placed

us at an inconvenient distance from workmen. For instance, he always

framed his etchings and engravings himself; at one time he even

undertook to re-gild all the frames which the flies so rapidly spoilt in

the country. He had also to make numerous packing-cases and boxes for

the sending of plates, pictures, and books; he invented lots of

contrivances for the arrangement of his colors, brushes, portfolios,

etc. He made different portable easels with folding stools corresponding

to their size, for working from nature, desks for large books, such as

dictionaries, to be placed by the side of his arm-chair when he was

reading; others for etchings and engravings, so that they might be

examined without fear of any object coming in contact with them. So

sensitive was he to the way in which works of art were handled, that he

allowed no one to touch his prints or illustrated books; he was always

in dread about their margins being creased or crumpled, and to avoid

this possibility he used to show them himself. A well-known aqua-fortist

told me that my husband had said to him once, "I would not trust you to

handle one of your own etchings."

Mr. Seeley had suggested that some illustrated articles about Autun

might interest the readers of the "Portfolio" on account of the Roman

and mediaeval remains, the remarkable cathedral, and the picturesque

character of the surrounding country. He thought that, as a title, "An

Old Burgundian City" would do. In a former letter he had expressed a

wish that his editor should come to England--if possible--every year in

the spring, instead of the autumn, when it was too late to discuss

arrangements for the "Portfolio" for the ensuing year. Mr. Hamerton

admitted that it would be desirable, no doubt, but he could not afford

it; the expenses of our last stay had been a warning, though we had

lived as simply as possible. To these considerations Mr. Seeley had

answered: "I am sorry you do not feel more happy about your future work.

What seems to be wanting is some public post in which you would be paid

for studying." But he had had more than enough of such schemes after his

attempt at Edinburgh, and it was the only one he was ever induced to

make. He began at once the pen-drawings which were to illustrate the

articles on Autun, and he liked his work exceedingly.

CHAPTER XVI.

1882-1884.

"Paris."--Miss Susan Hamerton's Death.--Burnley revisited.--Hellifield

Peel.--"Landscape" planned.--Voyage to Marseilles.

In May, Richard went away to Paris to study from the antique in the

Louvre, and Mary read English to her father for an hour every afternoon.

In the summer Mr. Hamerton received the decoration and title of Officier

d'Académie, but so little did he care for public marks of distinction

that the fact is barely mentioned in the diary.

In August he received the following interesting letter from Mr.

Browning:--

"HOTEL VIRARD, ST. PIERRE DE CHARTREUSE ISÈRS.

"_August_ 17, 1882.

"DEAR MR. HAMERTON,--When I got, a month ago, your very pleasant letter,

I felt that, full as it was of influences from Autun, the Saône between

Chalon and Lyons, speeded by '330 square feet of canvas,' my little word

of thanks in reply would never get well under weigh from the banks of

our sluggish canal; so reserved launching it till I should reach this

point of vantage: and now, forth with it, that, wherever it may find

you, I may assure your kindness that it would indeed have gratified me

to see you, had circumstances enabled you to come my way; and that the

amends you promise for failing to do so will be duly counted upon; tho'

whether that will happen at Warwick Crescent is unlikely rather than

merely uncertain--since the Bill which is to abolish my house, among

many more notable erections, has 'passed the Lords'' a fortnight ago,

and I must look about for another lodging--much against my will. I

dropped into it with all the indifference possible, some twenty-one

years ago--meaning to slip out again soon as this happened, and that

happened--and they all did happen, and yet found me with a sufficient

reason for staying longer, till, only last year while abroad, the

extraordinary thought occurred--'what need of removing at all?'--to

which was no answer: so I took certain steps toward permanent comfort,

which never before seemed worth taking--and, on my return, was saluted

by a notice to the effect that a Railway Company wanted my 'House,

forecourt, and garden,' and wished to know if I objected--I who, a month

or two before, had painted the house and improved the garden. Go I

must--but I shall endeavor to go somewhere near, and your visit, if you

pay me one, will begin the good associations with the place. And _this_

place; you may be acquainted with it, not unlikely. It is a hamlet on a

hilltop, surrounded by mountains covered with fir--being the ancient

Cartusia whence our neighbors the monks took their name; the Great

Chartreuse lies close by, an hour's walk perhaps: this hamlet is in

their district, 'the Desert,' as they call it; their walks are confined

to it, and you meet on a certain day a procession of white-clothed

shavelings, absolved from their vow of silence, and chattering like

magpies, while vigorously engaged in butterfly-hunting. We have not a

single shop in the whole handful of houses--excepting the 'tabac et

timbres' establishment--where jalap and lollipops are sold likewise--and

one hovel, the owner of which calls himself, on its outside,

'Cordonnier': yet there is this 'Hôtel' and an auberge or two--serving

to house travellers who are dismissed from the Convent at times

inconvenient for reaching Grenoble; or so I suppose.

"The beauty and quiet of the scenery, the purity of the air, the variety

of the wild-flowers--these are incomparable in our eyes (those of my

sister and myself), and make all roughnesses smooth: we spent five weeks

here last season; will do the like now, and then are bound for Ischia,

where a friend entertains us for a month in a seaside villa he inhabits:

afterwards to London, with what appetite we may, though London has its

abundant worth too. Utterly peaceful as this country appears--and you

may walk in its main roads for hours without meeting any one but a

herdsman or wood-cutter--I shall tell you a little experience I have had

of its possibilities. On the last day of our sojourn last year, we took

a final look at and leave of a valley, a few miles off; and as I stood

thinking of the utter _innocency_ of the little spot and its

surroundings, the odd fancy entered my head, 'Suppose you discovered a

corpse in this solitude, would you think it your duty to go and apprise

the authorities, incurring all the risks and certain hindrance to to-

morrow's departure which such an act entails in France--or would you

simply hold your tongue?' And I concluded, 'I ought to run those risks.'

Well, that night a man was found murdered, just there where I had been

looking down, and the owner of the field was at once arrested and shut

up in the _Mairie_ of the village of St. Pierre d'Entremont, close by.

The victim was an Italian mason, had received seven mortal wounds, and

lay in a potato-patch with a sack containing potatoes: 'he had probably

been caught stealing these by the owner, who had killed him,'--so, the

owner was taken into custody. We heard this--and were inconvenienced

enough by it next day, for our journey was delayed by the Judge

(d'Instruction) from Grenoble possessing himself of the mule which was

to carry our luggage, in order to report on the spot; but we got away at

last. On returning, last week, I inquired about the result. 'The accused

man, who was plainly innocent, being altogether _boulversé_ by the

charge coming upon him just in his distress at losing a daughter a

fortnight before, had taken advantage of the negligence of the gendarmes

to throw himself from the window. He survived three hours, protesting

his innocence to the last, which was confirmed by good evidence: the

likelihood being that the murder had been committed by the Italian's

companions at a little distance, and the body carried thro' the woods

and laid there to divert suspicions.' Well might my genius warn me of

the danger of being a victim's neighbor. But how I have victimized

_you_, if you have borne with me! Forgive, and believe me ever,

"Yours truly,

"ROBERT BROWNING."

Mr. Seeley had thought that a series of articles on Paris might be

suitable for the "Portfolio," if they were written by the editor, who

knew the beautiful city so well, and accordingly my husband had decided

to go there for a month, in order to take notes and to choose subjects

for the illustrations. He never could have been reconciled to the idea

of remaining a month in Paris alone, and I bethought myself of a plan,

which seemed both economical and pleasant, and which he readily adopted.

It was to take Mary with us, and to rent a small apartment in our quiet

Hôtel de la Muette; having our meals prepared in our private kitchen

(for each apartment was complete), and the cleaning done with the help

of a _femme de ménage_. It would be a sort of life-at-home on a very

small scale.

The apartments were like English lodgings without attendance. Moreover,

no one belonging to the hotel, not even a servant, had a right to enter

the apartments: they were entirely private. One might order the most

costly repasts from the luxurious restaurants close at hand, or keep a

_cordon bleu_, or live on bread-and-water like an anchorite, just as one

pleased, without anybody noticing it. This liberty was exactly what my

husband liked.

We left home on October 9 with Richard, who was to continue his artistic

studies in England now, and Mary, whom her father wanted to become

acquainted with the different museums, beautiful buildings, and

treasures of art, under his direction, for which there could have been

no better opportunity.

We all looked forward to this change as to a _partie de plaisir_, the

young people especially, and on our arrival in Paris, M. Mas and his

wife received us with great cordiality. They had nothing in common with

the ordinary type of hotel-keepers, and welcomed their _habitués_ with a

simple, hearty friendliness--such as servants, who had been all their

lives in a family, might show to their masters--which pleased my husband

much. They showed us, with visible satisfaction, our little apartment,

saying that it had been reserved for us on account of "Mademoiselle,"

because her room would be just close to her mamma's, and the door

leading from one to the other might be left open at night. We were told

that the kitchen was particularly nice, because Monsieur Paul Baudry,

"un artiste aussi," had fitted it up "à neuf" for the three months he

had been spending in our present apartment. Early in the morning I went

out to order provisions--groceries, fuel, wine, etc., for the month we

were to remain at the hotel. We had afterwards an excellent and cheerful

_déjeuner_ prepared in our own kitchen. My husband was amused by the

contrivances of what he called "the doll's house," and said he did not

mind spending a month in that way. In the afternoon we went with the

children to see the Hôtel de Ville, Notre Dame, and La Cour de

Cassation: in each of these buildings my husband gave us a short

explanatory lesson in architecture.

The second day he had already made rules for the division of his time,

according to which the mornings would be reserved for writing and

correspondence; déjeuner was to be ready at eleven, so as to leave the

afternoon free for the work in Paris.

As on the previous day, we were breakfasting together, talking of

Richard's prospects in London, when there came a telegram, saying that

our dear Aunt Susan thought herself to be sinking, and desired to see

us. It was a sudden and a painful blow; my husband had not a moment of

hesitation about what he would do. He told us to pack up immediately,

whilst he went to look at the railway-guide, and find the first slow

night-train for England: Richard and Mary were to go with us--it would

be a last satisfaction for their aunt if we arrived in time.

I was full of apprehension for my husband, but, of course, refrained

from mentioning my fears.

There was no slow train after four o'clock, so we had to start when it

was still daylight, but he kept his eyes closed till darkness rendered

invisible the objects we passed on our way. He bore the journey very

well on the whole, and on reaching Calais we went on board the steamer

immediately. It was midnight, the sea was splendidly phosphorescent, and

Richard and Mary took great delight in throwing things into it, to see

the sparkles flash about. I had no fear so long as we remained on the

water, for Gilbert always enjoyed it, whatever the weather might be, and

felt utterly free from nervousness.

Arrived at Dover at four in the morning, we went to bed for a little

rest, and after breakfast went out for a walk on the seashore under the

cliffs. Richard had never seen the sea before, and he received a

profound impression from it. The wind was high, and the big green,

crested waves came dashing their foam on to the very rocks at our feet.

The alternate effects of sunshine and masses of clouds, violently driven

and torn by the squalls, were magnificent; and Richard, more than ever,

was fired with the wish to become a painter. His sister, very sensitive

to natural beauty, shared his enthusiasm.

The train for London started at three, and on arriving at Charing Cross

we found a more reassuring telegram, stating that our aunt was somewhat

better. Thus cheered by the hope of seeing her again, Gilbert was able

to eat his supper with us before going to bed. I was greatly alarmed by

his decision to start early in the morning and to travel throughout the

day; but having made such a sacrifice of money in abandoning our

apartment and provisions, and in taking the children with us in the hope

of giving a last satisfaction to his aunt, I understood that he would on

no account run the risk of arriving too late.

It proved a most painful day to us all. Very soon he gave signs of

distress and nervousness in spite of all his efforts to hide them; but

this time he would not leave the train, though I besought him to do so.

We had some provisions in our bags, but, weak as he felt, he could not

swallow a morsel of anything; he could not even drink. Still, at one

time he thought that a little brandy might do him good; unfortunately we

had not any with us, and it being Sunday all the refreshment-rooms were

closed on the line. He strove desperately against the growing cerebral

excitement, now by lying down at full length on the cushions with the

curtains drawn, and his eyes closed (most mercifully we were alone in

our compartment); now by stamping his feet in the narrow space and

rubbing his hands vigorously to bring back circulation. In these

alternate fits of excitement and prostration we reached Doncaster at

five. Luckily there was a stoppage of about forty minutes before we

could proceed to Featherstone, and we turned it to the best advantage by

leaving the railway station and going in search of a quiet hotel, where

we ordered something to eat. Darkness had now set in. We had had a

little walk out of sight of the railway, in the open air, and there

seemed to be not a soul, besides ourselves and the landlord, in the

hotel; so that by the time our dinner made its appearance my husband had

so far recovered that he was able to take both food and drink, which did

him much good.

We arrived at Featherstone station after ten, and as the time of our

arrival had been uncertain, there was nobody to meet us. We left our

luggage, and only taking our handbags, we set off for the vicarage on

foot in the dark and in a deluge of rain. At eleven we were all standing

by the bed of our dear aunt, who knew us perfectly in spite of her weak

state, and whose satisfaction at the sight of Richard and Mary was as

great as unhoped for. The diary says: "Oct. 15, 1882. Our poor aunt

recognized us, but it is only too plain that she cannot live more than

three or four days." The doctor, whom we saw on the following morning,

said that Miss Hamerton was dying of no disease; it was merely the

breaking up of the constitution. She was kept up artificially by

medicine and stimulants, very frequently administered, for which she had

neither taste nor desire. Now she said to the doctor: "I have been very

submissive because I wanted to retain my flickering life until I should

see my nephew and his family; this great happiness has been granted to

me, and now I only desire to go to my final rest." After this the

doctor's prescription was to give her only what she might ask for. We

remained at her bedside throughout the day, with the exception of a

visit to the old church, now restored with care and taste, to my

husband's satisfaction.

We watched our aunt part of the night, and she spoke very often, with

her usual clearness of mind; towards three in the morning our cousins

Emma and Annie came to relieve us. On the morrow there was a change for

the worse with greater weakness, and we determined--my husband and

myself--to watch all night.

Aunt Susan concerned herself about our comfort to the last; she reminded

her nephew to keep up a good fire that I might not get cold; she

insisted upon my making some tea for myself, and upon my husband having

a glass of beer. About two in the morning she asked for a little

champagne; her mind was so clear that, after exchanging a few sentences

with her nephew in the Lancashire dialect and drinking her small glass

of champagne, she said with a smile, "It's good sleck," and lay still

for a while. At three she wanted to be turned on her side, which my

husband did with tender care, happy to be able to do something for her

better than any one else could do it, as she said. I believe she liked

to feel herself in his arms. Then she wished Ben to come up to read the

last prayers. I went to call him, also Annie and Emma, Richard and Mary,

and we all surrounded her bed whilst Ben was reading the prayers

according to her desire, and my husband holding one of her hands all the

time. She rested her eyes upon each of us in turn, closed them never to

open them again, and breathed more and more feebly till she breathed no

more. It was five o'clock in the morning. Her death had been a peaceful

one, without a struggle, without pain,--the death we may desire for all

that we love. Nevertheless, it proved a sore trial for my husband, who

was losing the oldest affection of his life. It was even more severe

than such losses are in most cases, however great may have been the

affection, for it was like complete severance from the past to which

both he and his aunt were so much attached. When they were together the

reminiscences of the old days at Hollins, of the old friends and

relations, of the quaint old customs still prevailing in the youthful

days of the Misses Hamerton, and the great change since, were frequent

topics of conversation. Aunt Susan was extremely intelligent, and her

conversation was full of humor; she also wrote capital letters, and kept

her nephew _au courant_ of all that happened to their common friends.

She shared in his great love and admiration for the beauties of nature,

and her enjoyment of them was intense. When walking out she noticed all

the changes of effect, and her interest never palled.

Great respect to her memory was manifested by the inhabitants of

Featherstone, high and low, who filled the church on the day of the

funeral and on the following Sunday, and who had put on mourning almost

without exception.

On the Sunday night my husband went alone to the cemetery by moonlight,

and remained long at the grave.

Our cousins, Ben and Annie Hinde, both showed great sympathy, and were

also sorrowful on their own account; but Ben thought it bad for Mary and

Richard to be shut up in unrelieved sadness, and was so kind as to take

them to Leeds, Pontefract, Wakefield, and York in turn.

Aunt Susan had left a little legacy to each of her nephews and nieces,

and the rest of her savings to my husband (she had not the disposition

of the capital, which had been left in trust).

She had carefully prepared and addressed little parcels of _souvenirs_

to myself and to each of my children--jewels, seals, silver

pencil-cases, as well as some ancient and curious objects which had been

preserved as relics in the family, and which she knew we should value

and respect.

The day came when we had to leave our dear cousins and the old vicarage,

so full of associations both pleasant and painful. We proceeded towards

Burnley, where a telegram from Mr. Handsley was handed to my husband at

the station. It said that Mr. Handsley was prevented from coming

himself, but that his carriage was in readiness to take us to Reedley

Lodge, where his wife was awaiting us.

We were made very welcome, and Gilbert was happy to see his friends

again after so long a separation. Thursday--our former servant in the

Highlands--came to see us in the evening, and our children, who had

heard a great deal about him, were glad of the meeting.

Mrs. Handsley was a distant relation of my husband, and the relationship

had always been acknowledged. She showed herself eager to divine how her

guests would like to spend the short time at their disposal, and to

fulfil their wishes. She was aware of my husband's faithful attachment

to old associations, both with persons and with places, and she drove us

to see his former friends who were still alive, and also the Hollins.

The children, who had heard so much about it, were greatly interested,

particularly in the room which had been their father's study. Note in

the diary: "October 26, 1882. Went to see the Brun, that I had not seen

since my marriage. Drank some of its water."

Mrs. Handsley said she had it on good authority that Mr. John Hamerton

of Hellifield Peel had expressed on several occasions his regret for the

division existing between the two branches of the family, and his wish

to become acquainted with my husband, whose works he knew and admired.

Now it had been a lifelong desire of his to visit Hellifield Peel--the

ancient tower with the romantic history, and the seat of the elder

branch of the Hamertons. There could be no better opportunity, Mrs.

Handsley suggested. At last he decided for the attempt, and on the

following morning we set out with the children.

It was Gilbert's intention merely to send his card, and beg leave to see

the tower without putting forward a claim of any kind, but on receipt of

the card we were immediately shown into the drawing-room and most

cordially received by Mr. John Hamerton and his sister. I was at once

struck--and so were Richard and Mary--by the likeness between the two

men, though they belonged to different branches of the family. My

husband might have been easily taken for a younger brother of Mr. John

Hamerton. They were both tall and spare, the elder man especially; both

were straight and of somewhat proud bearing; their eyes were blue, with

a straightforward and fearless expression. The lightness of the beard

and hair, together with the development of the forehead, completed the

resemblance, though the whole aspect of Mr. John Hamerton was that of a

country gentleman, whilst hard intellectual work had left its stamp on

the younger man's countenance. They got on very amicably together, and

we were invited to lunch. My husband eagerly desired to go over the

house, but alas for his dreams! it had been transformed according to

modern wants, and the absence of all relics from so many generations was

very striking.

We walked in the park, where we admired the noble trees, the pond, and,

at some distance from the Peel, the beautiful Ribble valley, the subject

of one of Turner's landscapes.

It was now time to go to our train after our long and charming visit;

and when Mr. John Hamerton had given some photographs of Hellifield Peel

to my husband, and we had taken a friendly leave of his sister, he

accompanied us to the station, and invited us to the Peel whenever we

might come that way.

So the long breach in the family now belonged to the past, and was

replaced by mutual goodwill and friendliness. Gilbert wrote in his

diary: "October 27, 1882. One of the most delightful days of my life."

The day after, he went to Burnley with Mr. Handsley and saw the new

school before going to the Council Chamber, where a public reception had

been organized in his honor, and where he delivered an oration in

acknowledgment of many flattering speeches. The formal part of the

reception over, he shook hands with every one who came forward to speak

to him--among whom he still remembered a few.

The afternoon ended with a visit to the Mechanics' Institution, in which

he had never ceased to take great interest. He had been much moved and

gratified by the welcome offered him at Burnley, and never forgot it.

The journey to London was very trying on account of the cold, fog, and

snow. The train ploughed its way slowly and cautiously amidst the

explosive signals, which did not add to our comfort. We felt very sorry

for Mr. and Mrs. Seeley, who were sitting up for us so late into the

night.

On the days following our arrival, my husband introduced Richard to his

friends, took him about London, and chose lodgings for him.

He also saw Mr. F. G. Stephens, who wished him to become a candidate for

the post of Professor of Fine Arts at Oxford; but he did not feel

tempted.

He called upon Mr. Browning, who was unfortunately out; but as he was on

the point of closing the door, he felt a resistance, and saw a

lady--"the sister of Robert Browning," she explained--to whom his card

had been handed, and who, by mistake, had read the name as Hamilton. It

was only after looking at it more attentively that she had rushed down

the stairs to detain the visitor. He went up with her to the

drawing-room, where he found Mrs. Orr, the sister of Sir Frederick

Leighton, and they had a long and pleasant talk together. Some days

later he had the pleasure of meeting with Mr. Browning.

It was lucky that Gilbert had good health just then, and Richard to go

about with him in London, for I was laid up with a bad cold--the result

of having walked a whole day in the snow making calls, without an

opportunity of drying my boots or of warming my feet. Mrs. Seeley was my

kind and thoughtful nurse, and thanks to her care I gradually recovered.

Richard came to say good-bye, and we left Nutfield House for France.

This time we did not go through Paris, but visited everything of

interest at Rouen, Dreux, Orléans, and Bourges. The diary says:

"November 27. In the evening we reached home, very happy to be back

again."

On the 29th of the same month be received a letter from Mr. Sagar, from

which I quote the following passage:--

"Sufficient time has not yet elapsed, I hope, for you to forget us in

Burnley here, and the pleasure we had in seeing you in the Council

Chamber on that, to us, memorable Saturday.

"Next year will be the fiftieth anniversary of the founding of the

Institute, and we are going to celebrate this and the general success we

have had by a week's jubilee--the whole of New Year's week. The jubilee

will take the form of a conversazione, a banquet, and a general

exhibition, occupying every room of the place except two. South

Kensington authorities are sending us six cases of examples of fabrics,

pottery, etc., and about sixty frames of pictures, drawings, etc. Can

you use your influence for us in obtaining a representative

exhibition--say of etchings, or anything else of a suitable character

that might suggest itself to you--together, if possible (and this would

delight us all), with your presence, or in the absence of this, if you

can't be here, a short letter for me to read, as on the opening of the

Art-school?"

The letter was sent in due time, and acknowledged with grateful thanks.

Mr. Seeley was so kind as to send us news of Richard from time to time;

he wrote in March: "Richard has shown me some of his drawings; I think

he is making progress. One of his last drawings seemed to me excellent;

very tender and subtle. He was down at Kinsgton with us the other day."

This opinion of Mr. Seeley's gave great pleasure to my husband, who had

always entertained doubts about the range of his son's artistic talent.

In the same month he was asked to send a biographical note for "Men of

the Time," a proof that his reputation was on the increase, and Mr.

Haden, who had just come back from America, said that his works were

held there in the highest esteem.

The book on Paris necessitated another journey, and my husband made the

time of it to coincide with the opening of the Salon. This time we

stopped at Auxerre, and visited the four churches, the museum, and the

room in which are exhibited the relics of Marshal Davoust.

The diary says: "April 30. Began this morning another diary in English,

to record the impressions which may serve for my literary work."

On May 1 we had a carriage accident which might have been serious. Our

horse took fright at sight of a steam tram, and ran away on the footpath

at a furious rate, dashing the carriage against the trees and lamp-posts

until he slipped and fell at full length on the asphalt. My husband had

been able to jump out, but a sudden jerk had prevented me from following

him at the moment, and then there was danger of being hurt between the

side of the carriage and the banging door. Gilbert had been running,

hatless, after the carriage to hold the door and enable me to jump out,

and he just succeeded as the horse slipped down and upset the carriage.

I was out in time to escape being hurt, but of course we were both a

good deal shaken, and went back to rest at our hotel.

We had hardly been a week in Paris when my husband began to suffer from

nervousness. A tramway had been laid in front of the hotel, and the

vibration prevented him from sleeping. Then spring was always trying to

him; and above all, he wished himself in the country. Mr. Seeley wrote:

"Nature evidently intended you for a savage; how in the world did you

come to be a literary man? What must Frenchmen think of you, in Paris

and miserable? Even Mrs. Hamerton must feel ashamed of you." He

acknowledged that he was more happy in a primitive sort of existence

than in one too perfectly civilized; still, he could not endure the

privation of books, and he would have felt keenly the absence of works

of art; but he was in deeper sympathy with the beauty of nature than

with artistic beauty--to be denied the last would have been a great

privation, but in the absence of the first he really could not live.

We had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with Mr. Howard-Tripp, who

had recently married Mr. Wyld's daughter, and who, being a

picture-dealer, invited us to go and see his gallery in the Rue St.

Georges. There were a great many fine works that my husband greatly

admired, particularly those by Corot, Daubigny, and Troyon, and the

scheme for the book on "Landscape" having been settled with Mr. Seeley,

he begged Mr. Howard-Tripp to allow reproductions of some of the

pictures to appear in his future work. It was readily granted.

This selection of pictures for the book on "Landscape" gave the author

much additional labor; but it was better to do it now that he was in

Paris than have to come again on purpose. Mr. Seeley had offered to run

over and help with the arrangements, but was prevented by a slight

accident. He then proposed that photographs of the pictures chosen

should be sent to him, that he might have a vote.

We were very near the end of our stay in Paris, and Gilbert wanted to go

to the office of "L'Art," having some business there, and wishing to say

farewell to the manager. He had also invited the sons of M. Schmitt (who

were now in Paris) to meet us in the Square Richelieu and to dine

afterwards at a restaurant. He thought that he could manage both things

on the same day. However, we were hardly out of the omnibus when I

perceived he was unwell; but I had not time to propose anything before

he started off at such a rate that I was obliged to run to follow him:

the worst symptoms were betrayed by his gait, by the congestion of face

and neck, and by the hard stare of the eyes. It was too late to take a

carriage; he could not stop, and could not be spoken to. I saw that a

sure instinct was guiding him out of the crowded street to the by-ways

and least frequented places, and I strove to remain by his side. In the

course of about twenty minutes, I noticed a slackening in his pace, and

as I had been looking about for some refuge, I remarked, through the

open doors of a small café, an empty back-room, and motioned to him to

follow me there. It was almost dark, and there was a divan running along

three sides of the wall; I made him lie down upon it, and went to tell

the _dame-de-comptoir_ (who happened to be the mistress of the house)

that my husband had felt suddenly unwell and required a little rest. She

made no fuss, did not press me to send for a doctor or to administer

anything; she merely promised to prevent any one from going into that

back room, and said we might remain there undisturbed as long as was

needed. After half-an-hour my husband asked for a little brandy and

water, and gradually became himself again. We remained about two hours

in the little room, reading--or pretending to read--the newspapers, and

such was Gilbert's courage and resolution, that he went to keep the

appointment with the young men he had invited. I knew I was not to

breathe a word of what had happened, and I was miserably anxious about

the effect that a dinner in a restaurant _en vogue_ might have upon the

nerves of my poor patient. Strange to say, he bore it very well, and

played his part as entertainer quite merrily. But after dinner I longed

to get him away, and proposed to take an open carriage for a drive in

the Champs Élysées. This was accepted, and I believe he really enjoyed

it.

We agreed to leave Paris the following evening, and I went to town alone

in the afternoon for a few things which had been postponed to the last

moment. We reached Autun on May 26, at which date the diary says: "I am

very happy to be in my home, which I prefer to all the finest palaces in

Paris."

In the spring he had suffered repeatedly from great pain in one of his

legs, and had attributed it to rheumatism; now he began to feel the pain

again in the left foot, and it soon became so acute that the doctor was

sent for. He said it was an attack of gout, but gave hope of an ultimate

cure, because the patient's constitution was not a gouty one. The cause

of the attack was insufficient exercise in the open air. He prescribed a

severe regimen, less sedentary work, and as much walking and riding as

possible.

For twenty-one nights my husband could not go to bed, but remained

stretched on a couch or sitting in an arm-chair; when the pain was less

severe he laid himself down upon the bed for a short time, but he hardly

ever got to sleep. His fortitude and patience were incredible, and he

bore the almost intolerable sufferings with admirable resignation. He

tried to read, and even to write upon a desk placed on his knees, and

talked much about his plan for the book on "Landscape."

Mr. Seeley wrote:--

"I am heartily sorry to hear of your attack of gout. But I am relieved

to hear that it is not erysipelas, which must have been alarming.

Possibly the discomfort you suffered in Paris may have been a

premonitory symptom of this attack, and you may look forward to the

enjoyment of better health when it has passed away."

Mr. Haden declared that he felt "delighted" by this attack, as

indicative of a change for the better in the constitution; he hoped that

the tendency to nervousness and insomnia would disappear, or at any rate

greatly diminish.

We were now daily expecting Richard, and Mr. Seeley had said on June 25:

"Richard was with us on Saturday, his farewell visit. We like him more

and more every time we see him." He was coming back--at my request--to

pass an examination in English, the same that his brother had passed

successfully two years ago for the _Certificat d'aptitude_, after which

he got his post of professor at Mâcon. I had thought that if Richard

failed as an artist he might be glad to fall back upon a professorship,

and it turned out so. His father was pleased to notice how much better

and more fluently he spoke English on his return from London; but at the

same time, after seeing the drawings done in England, he was confirmed

in the opinion that originality and invention were lacking to make a

real artist of his younger son. What ought to be said was very

perplexing: the drawings were good enough in their way, the progress

undeniable--but they were only copies, even when done from the living

model--the creative spark, the individual artistic stamp, were absent.

My husband allowed himself some time for consideration before warning

Richard that he thought him mistaken in his choice of a career.

However, after having passed a successful examination it was Richard

who, of his own accord, told his father that he felt very doubtful about

the ultimate result of his artistic studies. He believed they were begun

too late, and that his chances against students who had several years'

start were very small--they had been drawing and painting since the age

of thirteen or fourteen, whilst he was preparing himself for his

degrees. The ease with which he had carried off the _Certificat

d'aptitude_ made him sanguine about being ready for the _Agrégation_ in

the course of a year, after which he would be entitled to a post in the

University. He would not abandon art, he said, but would not follow it

as a profession.

It was a great relief that the resolution should have been his own; but

it surprised Mr. Seeley considerably, and he wrote to my husband:--

"From what you tell me of his want of enjoyment in the practice of art,

the determination seems wise. I suppose we take it for granted that a

man must take pleasure in doing whatever he can do well; but there is no

reason in the world why ability and inclination should always go

together. A man with a good eye and that general ability and power of

application which make a good student may easily be a draughtsman above

the average, but it is quite intelligible that he should take more

pleasure in other studies."

At the end of August Gilbert went with Stephen and his eldest nephew,

Maurice Pelletier, for a cruise of ten days on the Saône. They were on

the new catamaran "L'Arar," and enjoyed their voyage thoroughly.

On October 2, Richard left us to go to Paris to have the benefit of _les

Cours de la Sorbonne_, as a preparation for _L'Agrégation d'Anglais_;

and in December Stephen asked for a year's leave of absence from his

post, in order to pursue his English studies in London. It is therefore

conceivable that the father's health should have been impaired by

anxiety and his brain overtaxed by the numerous works he had undertaken

to meet his responsibilities. He was at the same time writing "Human

Intercourse" for Messrs. Macmillan, "Paris" for the "Portfolio," and the

book on "Landscape" was begun.

In November he had written a very long letter to Miss Betham-Edwards,

mainly in explanation of the word "sheer" used for boats, then about our

doings, and he says:--

"We have had the house upset by workpeople, but we are settled again

after a great bother, which I dreaded before, as Montaigne used to dread

similar disturbances; but now it is over I feel myself much more

comfortable and orderly, though the reform has cost me a considerable

loss of time. The rooms look prettier and are less crammed.

"I got the other day a letter of twenty pages from a cousin in New

Zealand who had never written to me for thirty years. It was the most

interesting biography of struggle, adventure, danger, hard work, and

final success. It is a great pity that the men who go through such lives

have not the literary talent to make autobiographies that can be

published. I have another cousin whose history is _quite_ as good as

'Robinson Crusoe,' and I have engaged him to write it, but he never

will. If I lived near him I could gradually get the material out of him;

but at a distance I cannot get him even to write rough notes. On the

other hand, we literary people are quite humdrum people in our ways of

life, and our autobiographies would generally be of little interest.

"I have been reading Ariosto lately in Italian, and am struck both by

his qualities and deficiencies. He is all on the surface; but what a

wealth of inventive power, and what a well-sustained, unflagging energy

and cheerfulness! The descriptions are frequently superb, and there is a

go in the style generally that is very stimulating. It is like watching

the flow of a bright, rapid, brimming river. I don't think we have any

English poet of the same kind. Spenser is rather like, but heavier, and

just lacking that brightness in combination with movement. Spenser and

Byron together contain many of the qualities of Ariosto."

The first note in the diary for 1884 says: "I must try to economize time

in all little things where economy is possible without injury to the

quality of work. I cannot economize it very much in the work itself

without risk of lowering quality."

It was a pleasure for my husband to see that his articles on the

architecture of Paris had been so favorably noticed as to bring requests

for contributions from "The Builder" and "L'Architecte." Mr. Seeley

wrote to him: "I think it is a feather in your cap that your

architectural notes should have brought you invitations to write for

professional journals."

My brother-in-law, M. Pelletier, had left Algiers, and was now Économe

at the Lycée at Marseilles. He had suggested that, it being possible to

go from Chalon to Marseilles by water, we might pay him a visit and see

the course of the Rhône at the same time. My husband felt greatly

tempted to accept, for more than one reason: he would be able at the

same time to take notes and to make observations on the way for the book

on "Landscape," and to come to a conclusion about the possibility of the

Rhône scheme. We might divide the places of interest into two series,

and see one of them in going and the other in coming back, with a

pleasant time of rest at our friend's in the interval.

The itinerary was carefully prepared to miss nothing on the way, and on

April 8 we left my mother in charge of the house, whilst my husband,

myself, and Mary started from Chalon, where we went on board the steamer

for Mâcon. My husband having often seen the town, was left to his

writing whilst I took Mary to see the church of Brou. From Mâcon to

Lyons we enjoyed the landscape from the deck of the steamer,

particularly Trévoux, and L'Ile Barbe as we neared Lyons.

Note in the diary: "We passed through some lovely scenery, but I came to

the conclusion never to boat with the 'Arar' below Courzon."

So long as he remained on the water or in little out-of-the-way places,

Gilbert was well enough and enjoyed himself exceedingly, but as soon as

we were obliged to stay in large towns he began to suffer; at Lyons,

having attempted to go to the Museum when it was crowded, he had to

hurry out, and it is a miracle how he managed to reach the hotel, where

he went through one of the worst attacks of nervousness in his life. It

did not last very long, and when he was well again I took Mary to

Fourvières.

By rail we proceeded to Vienne, then to Valence and Pierre-latte,

where it was pitch dark as we got out, and raining heavily. To our

dismay we saw no sign of either omnibus or carriage. However, a man was

coming up to us in a leisurely way with a broken lantern, and he

explained that the "'bus had not come because it was raining." He led us

to a very queer--apparently deserted--hotel, where the getting of sheets

for the narrow beds seemed to be an almost insurmountable difficulty;

and as to cases for the pillows, in sheer despair of ever getting any,

we had to use clean towels out of our bags in their stead. The

double-bedded room was adorned with a gallery of pastel portraits so wan

and faded that they looked by the faint gleam of moonlight through the

shutters like a procession of ghosts; and there were so many chairs in

Mary's room, and such an immensely long table, that it must surely have

been used by the ghosts as a dining-hall. Nevertheless, we slept

soundly, had a charming excursion in the morning, and a good, though

late, _déjeuner_ afterwards, for it chanced to be the drawing of lots

for the conscription, and the hotel was crowded by famished

officials--Mayor, _adjoints_, gendarmes, officers, etc. Of course there

was nothing for unofficial people like us but to wait and catch the

dishes as they left the important table, and appropriate what might

remain upon them. There was enough for us, and the wine was

excellent,--so good indeed that we thought of having a cask sent to La

Tuilerie. The great people having departed, we were able to talk at our

leisure with the landlady, but all of a sudden we became aware that it

was getting time to go, and asked for the bill. "Oh! there was no need

for a bill, she could reckon in her head--but there was no hurry." We

explained that there was some hurry, as the carriage we had ordered

would be at the door presently.

"Mais pourquoi? pourquoi vous en aller?" exclaimed the simple woman,

with an air of consternation; "est-ce que vous n'êtes pas bien ici?"

Bourg St. Andéol, where we stopped next, is a very interesting place. My

husband was particularly pleased with the little town and the Hôtel

Nicolai. Our arrival created quite a stir in the sleepy, regular routine

of the little bourg, and the doors and windows it can boast of became

alive with curious eyes as we passed along the deserted streets. In an

open carriage we were driven to Pont St. Esprit, and noticed the long

lines of mulberry trees on each side of the roads; the driver explained

that they are planted to feed the silkworms, and that in two months they

would be leafless. We took the steamer again at Pont St. Esprit, late in

the following day, for Avignon. In the morning of Sunday we all went to

hear High Mass in the Cathedral, then to the Palace of the Popes, and

round the walls. In the afternoon we visited the tomb of John Stuart

Mill, and my husband left his card at the house of Miss Taylor. We then

heard music in the open air, and saw the old bridge.

It was a very pleasant fortnight that we spent at Marseilles with our

relations, the only drawback being Gilbert's uncertain health, which

prevented him from going out much; though close to the expanse of the

Mediterranean, I suppose he had the feeling expressed in the preface to

"Landscape" in these words: "The lover of wilderness always feels

confined among the evidences of a minutely careful civilization."

Towards the end of the day, when the blinding glare of sunshine was

softened, we generally went to the Vieux Port, where there was an

uninterrupted succession of picturesque scenes among sailors of all

nations and ships of every description; or to La Joliette, to watch the

arrival or departure of the Chinese vessels and other curious craft. At

other times we walked in the Pare Borelli or on the Corniche.

A novel feature in our life was the frequent visits to the theatre with

our friends. It was most remarkable that my husband should take such a

sudden fancy to the Opera; he could not account for it himself, except

by noticing that "he felt at home in it." We invariably took _fauteuils

d'orchestre_, so that he only saw the musicians, actors, and

scenery--hardly any of the occupants of the theatre, except those in the

stage-boxes. It is a curious fact that in the space of a fortnight he

heard more operas than in all the rest of his life.

He wrote the greater part of the day in a very quiet room, which M.

Pelletier, who was well acquainted with his tastes, had fitted up

accordingly at the very beginning of our visit.

On our return we stopped to see Tarascon and Beaucaire, where we had

still some friends. In the last place the director of the gas-works

obligingly showed us through the house which had been my father's. We

also visited Nîmes, Orange, and Montélimart, giving a whole day to each

place. It was already very hot in the south, and the perfume of the

acacias in full bloom everywhere was almost more than we could bear,

especially at Montélimart. At Orange, after seeing the noble Roman

remains, we partly ascended the hill to see the Ventoux range of

mountains; then went on to Valence for the night. We were on board the

steamer at five in the morning, and had a delightful voyage to Lyons,

during which Gilbert took copious notes in the map-book he had prepared

on purpose. After resting a day, we went straight on to Chalon by boat,

and had a pleasant day with the captain, who invited us to _déjeuner_

with him on board.

On the whole, we were satisfied with our journey; but the information my

husband had collected on the way convinced him that the Rhône project,

as he had planned it, was utterly impracticable.

We were soon in great anxiety about our relatives at Marseilles, for we

learned that cholera had broken out there early in July. Gilbert,

without the least hesitation, immediately wrote to M. Pelletier,

inviting him and his children to La Tuilerie, where they would be safe

from the terrible scourge. Our brother-in-law readily availed himself of

the invitation for his children; but thought it his duty to remain at

his post, and set an example to the panic-stricken population.

The arrival of our nephews and niece from the very centre of

contamination did not tend to augment our popularity in the

neighborhood, and we were made to understand--very plainly--that the

house was tabooed, along with ourselves. Our milk from the farm just

opposite to our house was brought to us half-way, and deposited in the

middle of the road, where our servant had to go and fetch it--no one

amongst the inmates of the farm being sufficiently courageous either to

bring it within our walls, or to deliver it to a servant who had

approached "les Marseillais."

Ever since Richard had come home he had been steadily preparing himself

for his examination, with the help of his father. Every day they read

English poetry together, and Gilbert gave him all the necessary

information as to the meaning, rhythm, and structure.

In moments of relaxation he joined the family circle, frequently

enlivened by the presence of a young couple, M. and Mme. Pochon, who had

recently come to live at the schist-works, where the husband was

managing engineer. The lady had a charming voice, and used to sing in

the church with Mary, who played the harmonium. This led to an intimacy,

and with an additional singer and pianist in the person of my niece we

often organized private concerts, in which my husband took great

pleasure. There was nothing he enjoyed more than such private

recreation, except perhaps the satisfaction of taking trouble to make

things agreeable to others. Here is an instance among many.

On a fearfully hot day in August he overheard a _cantinière_ who,

talking to her husband from the top of a wagon which had just stopped

near La Tuilerie, was lamenting her inability to find a shady place for

the _déjeuner_ of the officers, who would shortly arrive. He saw at once

that he might offer these hot and weary warriors the unexpected pleasure

of a cool resting-place. So he went to the _cantinière_, and proposed to

have the officers' table set upon the lawn, under the shady elder trees.

The woman could hardly credit such a charitable offer, and warned him

that the fresh-looking grass would certainly suffer from it; but he only

smiled, saying that it could not be helped, but that he hoped to induce

the grass to grow again with copious watering.

The table was set, chairs were brought from the house, also live

charcoal for the portable stove, and we witnessed a very entertaining

scene from behind the shutters when the regiment halted.

The Colonel began to swear and scold at sight of the white, dusty,

sultry road where the _cantinière_ had stopped, and for a few moments

refused to listen to her explanations; but when he saw Mr. Hamerton

coming out of the garden gate to invite him inside with his brother

officers, he dismounted to salute him, and stood fixed in a state of

ecstacy before the inviting white table-cloth, looking so fresh and cool

between the green grass of the lawn and the green leaves of the trees.

The other officers shared this pleasant impression, and were profuse in

their thanks. After a short talk with the master of the house--who was

called away to his own _déjeuner_ by the bell--they drank his health,

and sat down with unfeigned satisfaction to their meal.

It was not only the lawn which was thus invaded; for there being in the

courtyard a deep well of deliciously cold water, the soldiers were not

slow to find their way to it, and after quenching their thirst and

filling up their _bidons_, they stretched themselves at full length upon

the ground wherever there was shade, either from tree or wall.

This general enjoyment of an hour's delicious rest amply compensated my

husband for the havoc done in the garden.

We were rather a numerous household then, at meal-times, with the

addition of my mother, M. Pelletier and his three children, my brother,

his wife and two little girls, so that when the youngest officer entered

the dining-room--as spokesman--to reiterate the thanks of his brother

officers, he felt abashed by so many eyes fixed upon him; still, he

managed to get through his duty--somewhat hurriedly--and soon after the

regiment was marching off; the men, now rested and refreshed, singing

lustily at the top of their voices, and waving their _képis_ towards La

Tuilerie.

Philip Gilbert Hamerton An Autobiography, 1834-1858, and a Memoir by His Wife, 1858-1894 · 第 36 / 38 章