Having engaged a seat in the best line, I took a last look at the
beauties of the White Sulphur, and soon found myself rolling away for
the Salt. The morning was dark and cloudy, with occasional showers,
and having shut up our splendid coach, we were left to our own
reveries except when disturbed by an occasional "long yarn" from an
ex-gentleman of the box, narrating his adventures among the mountains
of North Carolina, or ever and anon by the nasal melody from the
olfactory organs of some fellow traveller, who had resigned himself
into the arms of Morpheus. Our whole company, however, seemed to
partake somewhat of the gloom which the aspect of the day was
calculated to inspire, whilst our driver, on the contrary, with all
imaginable glee, took advantage of the smooth turnpike and a noble
team, to whirl us at a jehu rate over the first part of our journey.
The joys of a good road and rapid travelling, were, however, very soon
terminated, for our way left the turnpike and led us for several miles
up the rough, stony bed of a creek, and over long and rugged hills,
much to the annoyance of one or more fair fellow passengers. The day
began to brighten as we approached Union, the seat of justice of
Monroe county, and a neat village, containing a wealthy and
intelligent population. Most of the country, after leaving the White
Sulphur, had been wild and uncultivated, although it had the
appearance of natural fertility; but now some of the large grazing
farms, for which this section of Virginia is so celebrated, spread out
their clovered fields in rich luxuriance before us. The general aspect
of this region is that of a newly settled country; most of the farm
houses, even of men of wealth, being the log tenements erected in the
rude style of the frontier settlements. Occasionally, however, there
are handsome edifices, built in accordance with a more modern and
refined taste. Large numbers of cattle are annually taken from this
and the adjoining counties, to the northern markets. The natural
growth of grass, found even in the forests, offers great facilities
for amassing fortunes by speculations of this description.--After
arriving at Union, there remained but three miles of our journey
before us; and having taken leave of the worst of the rocks and hills,
we forgot the unpleasantness of the morning, in the enjoyment of the
beautiful scenery, and the fine, clear day, with which we were
blessed, as we drew near the Salt Sulphur. On our right lay a
continued range of mountains, upon one of the spurs of which could be
seen the residence of a gentleman of South Carolina, who has erected a
showy summer retreat upon this airy peak, which commands a view of the
springs, the village of Union, and the adjoining country. On our left,
was pointed out as we passed, amongst other attractions, the "royal
oak," an immense and most noble tree, to which Mr. Jefferson has given
this title in his "Notes on Virginia." The valley of the Sweet Sulphur
opened to our view as we approached, but its beauties were forgotten,
as through its further extremity we caught a glimpse of our place of
destination, and especially as we soon plunged through the "creek,"
and into the gate at the Salt Sulphur.
A stranger who takes the White Sulphur, as a specimen, as to external
appearance, of the other springs, would be disappointed, when, after
the first glance, he gets a full view of the Salt Sulphur. Nature has
not been so lavish of her gifts as at the White Sulphur, and art has
as yet added but little to its outward charms. The Salt Sulphur is
situated in a ravine, between two small mountains. One of these,
slopes very gradually, and upon its side at the distance of some two
hundred paces from the base, a row of cottages has been erected.
Parallel with these, at the base of the hill, is a similar range, both
fronting the level in the valley. Then on the same ascent, and in the
direction of the gate, through which you enter upon the spring's
premises, is a small hollow square, the farther side of which is
connected with the range at the base of the hill, and runs up the
acclivity at right angles to that range. Most of these buildings are
constructed, according to the early fashion of the country, of hewn
logs: many of them have piazza's, and all are close and comfortable.
We understand that the proprietors will soon erect ranges of two-story
stone buildings in their stead. The hotel is a noble building; the
main body of the edifice is near two hundred feet in length, the
entire lower floor of which is used as a dining room. A double piazza
extends along the whole front, and the upper story is occupied as a
dancing saloon, lodging rooms, &c. At right angles to this building,
at the western extremity, and facing the long ranges on the opposite
side of the level, are a few framed cottages, and a two-story stone
building, affording very comfortable and pleasant accommodations. The
spring, which is some hundred paces higher up the ravine, is protected
by a temple somewhat similar to that at the White Sulphur, from the
floor of which flights of cut stone steps lead down to the reservoir.
The reservoir is a square of about two feet, and is also constructed
of hewn sand-stone.
At the White Sulphur, the fairest prospects greet the visiter at his
arrival, and every succeeding day of his sojourn only serves to make
disclosures, such as mar the first impressions. At the Salt Sulphur,
on the contrary, first appearances are rather unpropitious, but there
is every thing to gain; we know of no more delightful place in the
southern country for spending the sultry months of summer. Indeed we
believe, that several families from the Carolinas, and one or more
from the north, are accustomed to establish themselves here for the
whole season. The proprietors are intelligent gentlemen, and more
thoroughly skilled in the art of accommodating, than any men I have
ever seen. Their table, which is so justly celebrated, is perhaps the
finest in this country. The great danger, however, from this source,
is, lest the refined luxuries of the culinary department, should
destroy the medicinal effects of the waters. Every attention which
could reasonably be required at such an establishment, is here
received. All the arrangements are made with the most perfect system.
During the last season, the visiters, generally, were of the very
first order, and there was a smaller proportion of low characters than
was to be found at perhaps any of the other springs. There was also
much sociability and true Virginia feeling.
In the evenings, a fine band sent its notes over the still valley, and
the more gay portion of the company passed the hours in the ball room.
Among the visiters at this place also, was the Rev. Dr. Johns, of
Baltimore, and other eminent ministers, and those disposed to enjoy
the more abiding pleasures of religion, met, with the close of every
day, and were led in their devotions by these men of God. On the
Sabbath, too, there were always interesting and appropriate services.
The proprietors have provided for the visiters means of amusement and
recreation, which serve to give a zest to the hours which sometimes
hang heavily at these watering places, at the same time that they
afford a substitute for those pernicious games which are so frequently
resorted to in weary moments. Many of the younger visiters gratify
their taste for horsemanship, by taking excursions along the wild and
romantic roads, which wind through the country, on the fine Virginia
steeds, which are found in this region.
The Salt Sulphur water has been particularly efficacious in affections
of the stomach. It possesses most of the active, without the
stimulating properties of the White Sulphur. On this account the Salt
Sulphur water would probably be a more suitable preparative, in
pulmonary cases, for those waters which act more directly upon the
respiratory system. Indeed, some instances are mentioned where the use
of this water alone has effected the cure of individuals subject to
hemorrhage from the lungs. With an occasional use of the blue pill,
its effect upon the liver is also very pleasant, although not so
beneficial as the White Sulphur water. With dyspeptics, in addition to
its other action, it has the peculiar property of neutralizing by its
alkaline matter, the distressing acidity, to which they are subject.
Cold and tepid sulphuretted baths, can be obtained at any time, so
that the patient can have the combined effects of the external and
internal action of the water upon his system at the same time.
At the distance of less than a mile, in the direction of Union, there
is another spring called the Sweet Sulphur, which is also the property
of the proprietors of the Salt Sulphur. This spring was a place of
considerable resort, until the Salt Sulphur was discovered and
improved: no separate accommodations are now provided, but it can be
conveniently used by visiters at the Salt Sulphur. It is said to
possess less sulphuretted hydrogen, and greater tonic properties than
the latter spring.
We must now bid adieu to the Salt Sulphur, leaving with it our best
wishes. The enterprising proprietors are continuing their
improvements, so that this spring will, in every point of view, soon
merit the praise of being the most inviting resort among the
mountains.