Pickersgill and Edgecombe, with a party of men armed, to explore the
country. They were at first pressed on by a crowd of the natives, till
a man appeared, tattooed and painted, who drove them away, and then,
hoisting a piece of white cloth on a spear, marched forward at the head
of the party. A considerable portion of the island was barren and
stony, but in other parts were plantations of potatoes, plantains, and
sugar-canes. Water was very scarce, and hardly drinkable. Some huts
were found, the owners of which came out with roasted potatoes and
sugar-canes, and as the party marched in single file on account of the
narrow path, gave some to each man as he passed by. They distributed
water in the same manner. On the east side, near the sea, three ruinous
platforms of stone were met with, on each of which had stood four large
statues; but most of them had fallen down and been broken. Mr Wales
measured an entire one, and found it to be fifteen feet in length and
six feet across the shoulders. On the head of each statue was a large
cylinder of a red-coloured stone. One of these cylinders, which was
measured, was fifty-two inches high, and sixty-six in diameter. There
were others, however, very much larger. Some of them were perfectly
round, others had a cavity worked out, in the upper edge, for a quarter
of the way round.
The opposite side of the island to this, to which their guide conducted
them, was full of these gigantic statues, some placed in groups, on
masonry, others single, fixed only in the earth. The latter were much
larger than the others. One which had fallen down was twenty-seven feet
high and eight feet across the shoulders; and yet this was much shorter
than one they found standing--its shade being sufficient to shelter
their party of nearly thirty persons from the rays of the sun at about
two o'clock. Near this place was a hill, from which a view of the whole
island was obtained. Not a creek large enough even for a boat was seen,
nor any indication of fresh water. In a small hollow on the highest
part of the island several cylinders were found, and Mr Wales was of
opinion that the quarry had been at that spot, and that after the
cylinders had been formed they were rolled down the hill. There must
have been great difficulty in raising them to the heads of the statues.
It was conjectured that this was done by raising a mound round each
statue and rolling up the stone on it, the mound being afterwards
removed. It must have required a considerable amount of mechanical
knowledge to bring the statues from the quarry, and to place them
upright. The natives knew nothing whatever as to the origin of the
statues, nor did they look on them with any respect, nor, indeed, seem
interested in any way in them. No quadrupeds were seen on the island,
but few birds, and only two sorts of low shrubs.
The party were greatly inconvenienced in their walk by the attempts of
the natives to steal from them, and at length one man, who ran off with
a bagful of provisions, was fired upon with small shot and wounded
slightly. He dropped the bag, and seemed in no way offended at the
treatment he received. The people carried short clubs and also spears
with flint heads. The dress of the chiefs consisted of two pieces of
cloth, one round the waist and the other thrown over the shoulders; but
many were almost naked. The men wore their hair and beards short, with
a fillet ornamented with feathers round the head; while the women wore
the hair long, and had straw caps, shaped like a Scotch bonnet, on their
heads. Their habitations were low huts, built with sticks bent
overhead, and joined together so as to form an arch. The longest seen
was sixty feet long, and only four or five wide. Their canoes were very
poor, owing to the want of materials, and very few were seen. Captain
Cook considered that there were about six or seven hundred inhabitants
on the island. In colour, features, and language they were similar to
the inhabitants of the islands to the west, so that it was evident they
had sprung from the same race.
The Resolution left Easter Island on March 16, and stood
north-west-by-north, and north-north-west, for the Marquesas, with a
fine easterly gale. Having reached the latitude of the group, the
course was changed to west. On April 5 first one island and then others
in succession were seen; and the explorers were satisfied that they had
reached the Marquesas, discovered by the Spaniards in 1595. The first
island seen was called Hood's Island, after the midshipman who
discovered it, and the others were Saint Pedro, Dominica, and Saint
Christina. The ship, after being nearly driven on the rocks, brought up
in port in the last-mentioned island. Directly afterwards, thirty or
forty natives came off in ten or twelve canoes, in the bow of each of
which a heap of stones was observed, while all the men had slings
fastened to their hands. It required some address to get them
alongside, but at last a hatchet and some spike-nails induced the people
in one canoe to venture under the quarter-galley. The rest then
followed, exchanging bread-fruit and fish for small nails. At sunset
they all returned to the shore. The next morning the natives returned
in greater numbers, with plantains, bread-fruit, and a pig, but soon
showed themselves ready to cheat, and to be expert thieves. Captain
Cook was going into the boat to look for a convenient place to moor the
ship, when, seeing too many natives on board, he warned one of the
officers on deck, saying that something would be stolen. Just then he
was told that an iron stanchion had been carried off from the opposite
gangway. He therefore ordered the officer to fire over the canoe till
he could get round in the boat, but to be careful not to kill any one.
But the noise made by the natives prevented this last warning from being
heard, and at the third shot the unhappy thief was killed. Two other
natives who were in the canoe leaped overboard, but soon got in again,
and threw away the stanchion. One of them sat baling the blood and
water out of the canoe, uttering a kind of hysteric laugh, while the
other, a youth of fifteen, looked at the dead body with a serious and
dejected countenance. The latter was found to be the son of the man who
had been killed. Immediately on this, the natives took to flight, but
on being followed by the captain into the bay the people in one canoe
were persuaded to come alongside the boat, and to receive some nails.
This restored their confidence in some degree, but soon afterwards they
attempted to carry off the buoy of the kedge anchor. A musket-shot on
this was fired at them, but it fell short, and they took no notice of
it; but a second bullet passing over them, they immediately let go the
buoy and made for the shore.
The natives undoubtedly were bold fellows, for, notwithstanding the
effects of the firearms which they had witnessed, before long some more
ventured off. One of them appeared to be a person of consequence. His
dress was similar to that of the chiefs of Otaheite. Bound his head was
a fillet with the tail feathers of birds fixed in it, and standing
upright. He also wore ornaments of feathers round his legs and arms.
The women wore a petticoat of native cloth, and a broad fillet made of
the fibre of the cocoanut husk, with a piece of mother-of-pearl shell
the size of a tea-saucer in front. On either side were other ornaments
of tortoiseshell and mother-of-pearl, with feathers in the upper part.
The chief brought a pig, and was persuaded to come up to the side, but
soon went away.
The party from the Resolution who went on shore were received with
courtesy by the natives; the captain was disappointed in not obtaining
the number of pigs he had expected. Some of the young officers, it
seemed, gave away thoughtlessly several articles which the natives
valued more than the nails, and thus spoilt the trade. Among those
highly coveted objects were some of the red feathers obtained at Tonga.
The productions of the Marquesas Islands were similar to those of
Otaheite; the habitations were of a like character, but not so well
built, and the habits of the people were not so cleanly. The people
were considered the handsomest that had been met with during the whole
voyage. The men were generally tattooed, but the women and children,
who were not so, were thought to be as fair as many Europeans. Hogs
were the only quadrupeds, and cocks and hens the only tame fowls seen,
and these were not procured in any great number. Notwithstanding the
length of time the crew had been at sea previous to their arrival at the
Marquesas, yet, owing to the abundant supply of anti-scorbutic food, and
the watchful care of the surgeon, there was not a man seriously ill on
board. Captain Cook therefore determined to proceed on his voyage
without further delay.
The Resolution therefore left the Marquesas on April 12, 1774; and ten
days afterwards she reached Otaheite, and anchored once more in Matavai
Bay. In the course of this passage several low coral islands or islets
had been passed, and one of them had been visited. This was the Island
of Tioakea, first of all discovered by Captain Byron, and formed one of
a group, called Saint George's Islands. After passing these, the
Resolution had fallen in with four other smaller islands, not set down
in any chart; and these Captain Cook had named Palliser's Isles, in
honour of his particular friend, Sir Hugh Palliser.
Captain Cook's object in visiting Matavai Bay was that Mr Wales, the
astronomer, might correct the chronometers of the ship by a known
longitude. The first thing done, therefore, was to erect tents, and to
land the instruments required in this operation.
As soon as the arrival of the voyagers was known, many of their old
friends paid them a visit, expressing great joy at seeing them. Among
others came Otoo, the king, with several chiefs, and a train of
attendants, who brought with them a dozen large hogs and a quantity of
fruit, which made them very welcome. A supply of red parrots' feathers
having been collected at Tonga, these were shown to the natives, and
took their fancy to such a degree that the principal people of both
sexes brought hogs, fruit, and everything the island afforded, in order
to obtain them. So exhausted was his stock-in-trade that, had it not
been for these feathers, Cook says he should have found it difficult to
supply his ship with the necessary refreshments. He had intended
remaining here only long enough to allow Mr Wales to take the
observations he desired, but he found so great an improvement in the
state of the country, and provisions so abundant, that he resolved at
once to repair and refit his ship.
When Captain Cook on one occasion went to Opparree to pay King Otoo a
visit, a formidable fleet of three hundred double war canoes was found
drawn up along the beach, while a number of armed men were seen on the
shore. What could be the object of this armament it was difficult to
conjecture. The Englishmen, however, on landing, were received with
great courtesy; but Otoo was not to be found, and, greatly disappointed,
they returned on board. At length they were told that this fleet was
part of an armament intended to be sent against Eimeo, whose chief had
declared himself independent of Otaheite.
The chief next in consequence to Otoo was Towha, who seemed to be a very
sensible man, and most friendly to the English. He showed it on a
trying occasion. A native had been caught stealing a water-cask, and
having been kept in irons on board, was returned on shore to be flogged.
Otoo, his sister, and others, begged that the man might be set at
liberty; but Cook explained that as he flogged any of his people who
stole from them, or behaved ill in any way, so in justice, and to
preserve peace between them, he must punish any natives who behaved ill
to him. The sentence was carried out, the natives looking on. On the
culprit being set at liberty, the people were going away, when Towha
called them back and addressed them, recapitulating what had been said
to Otoo, condemning their present bad habits, and advising a reformation
in future. The gracefulness of action and the attention with which he
was heard showed that he was no mean orator. After this the marines
went through their exercises and loaded and fired in volleys, to the
utter amazement of the natives, especially to those who had seen nothing
of the kind before.
The next morning a small portion of the fleet of war canoes was observed
exercising, and Mr Hodges had the opportunity of sketching them. The
largest had about thirty rowers, the smaller only eighteen. The
warriors stood on the stage, and encouraged the rowers, or paddlers
rather, to exert themselves. Some youths were seated high up on the
carved stem above the steersman, with white wands in their hands,
apparently to look out and give notice of what they saw. The warriors
were completely equipped for war, and the quantity and weight of cloth
they had on them made it difficult to conceive how they could stand up
under it when fighting. A large quantity was wrapped round their heads
as turbans of helmets, to guard them from the blows of their enemies.
The turbans of some of the warriors were surmounted by small bunches of
shrubs covered with white feathers, intended as ornaments. On returning
to the shore all the rowers leaped out the moment the canoe touched the
ground, and, with the assistance of those on shore, hauled it up on the
beach. Each man then walked off with his paddle, and so rapidly was
everything done, that in less than five minutes there was no sign of the
canoes having been lately afloat. Afterwards, at the dockyard of King
Otoo, among many large canoes, two were seen in the course of building a
hundred and eight feet long. They were to be united so as to form one
double canoe; the largest, Cook says, he had seen in those seas.
On another occasion an example was given of the way the warriors, in
attacking a place, are thrown on shore. Four or more canoes were lashed
side by side, and then each division paddled in so judiciously that they
formed one unbroken line along the shore. To do this they were directed
by a man who stood in the fore part of the centre vessel, with a long
wand in his hand, directing all their movements. The fleet was attended
by some small double canoes, called marias. On the fore part of each
was a sort of bed place with one division, capable of holding the body
of a man, intended for the reception of any chief who might be killed in
battle. Cook estimated, from the number of canoes he saw furnished by
each district, that the whole island could raise and equip one thousand
seven hundred and twenty war canoes, requiring sixty-eight thousand men,
calculating forty for each canoe. As these would not amount to a third
of the number of people in the island, he considered that it could not
contain less than two hundred and four thousand inhabitants. He was
convinced, from the vast swarms of people he met wherever he went, that
this estimate was not too great. This is possible; but war, disease,
and vicious habits had fearfully decreased the population before
Christianity was established among them.
Otoo and his chiefs at first appeared very anxious that Captain Cook
should accompany them in their proposed expedition, and they begged him
to help them against their enemies. This he very properly declined
doing, but would have been glad to have accompanied them to witness the
mode in which they carried on their naval operations. It would have
been more in accordance with the character of a Christian people had the
English tried to reconcile the contending parties, and to prove to them
the advantages and blessings of peace. But such a thought does not
appear to have entered the mind of the sagacious navigator, or of his
companions.
Cook's endeavours to benefit the islanders in other respects appeared
likely to be successful. Two goats had been left by Captain Furneaux.
They had had two kids, now nearly full grown, and the mother was also
again with kid. The animals were in excellent condition, and the people
seemed very fond of them. One of two sheep had, however, died, but
twenty cats were given to the natives, though it is difficult to
understand how they were likely to prove useful, unless mice had
threatened to overrun the island.
During this visit a man from a distant part of the island made off with
a musket and effected his escape. The dread of the consequences to
themselves caused Otoo and several other chiefs to run away and hide
themselves, and the people were afraid to bring down provisions to the
ship. After a considerable amount of negotiations, and the delay of
nine days, the musket and some other articles which had been stolen
were, by the intervention of the chiefs, brought back to the tents, and
confidence was restored.
Preparations were now made for leaving Otaheite. On May 11 a large
supply of fruit arrived from all parts, some of it sent by Towha, the
admiral of the fleet, with orders to his servants to receive nothing in
return. However, the captain thought fit to send an equivalent present
by Oedidee. That young native had come to the resolution of remaining
at Otaheite, but was persuaded to go on in the ship to Ulietea, his
native island. Nothing but Captain Cook's warning that it was very
probable he would be unable to return to the Pacific would have induced
him to leave the ship, so great was his affection for the English, and
his desire to visit their country.
On the 12th old Oberea, who had been supposed by Captain Wallis to be
the queen of the island, came on board, and brought a present of pigs
and fruit, and soon afterwards Otoo appeared with a retinue and a large
quantity of provisions. Handsome presents were made in return, and the
visitors were entertained in the evening with fireworks. A succession
of broadsides from the great guns on another occasion must have still
more astonished the natives.
Captain Cook waited in vain for the sailing of the fleet on the proposed
warlike expedition. It was evident that the chiefs considered, since
they could not obtain the assistance of the English, that they should be
more at liberty to act if left alone, and therefore, as long as the
Resolution remained, they continued to make excuses for not setting out.
Otoo's large canoe had been called, at Cook's request, the Britannia,
and he had presented to the king a grappling-iron, a rope, and an
English Jack and pendant for her.
Several natives were anxious to accompany Captain Cook, but he firmly
resisted all their solicitations, from motives of humanity, knowing the
great probability that they would never return to their native land. At
length, on May 14, 1774, the anchor was hove up, and the ship proceeded
out of the harbour, Otoo remaining in his canoe alongside till the ship
was under sail. At that juncture, all the boats being hoisted in, a
gunner's mate, a good swimmer, slipped overboard, hoping to reach the
shore and remain behind. He was, however, seen before he got clear of
the ship; a boat was lowered, and he was brought back. He was an
Irishman by birth, but he had been long-absent from home, and he was
without any tie of kindred; Captain Cook says that he could not be
surprised at his wish to remain where he could enjoy not only all the
necessaries, but all the luxuries of life, in ease and plenty; and that
had he asked permission to remain it might, perhaps, have been granted.
He had formerly been in the Dutch service, and had come on board the
Endeavour at Batavia during the former voyage.
On the 15th the Resolution anchored in O'Wharre Harbour, in the island
of Huaheine, and immediately old Oree, the chief, and several natives
came on board, when the former presented a hog and some other articles
with the usual forms. A friendly intercourse was kept up with Oree the
whole time of the visit, but several of the officers and men were robbed
on shore. There appeared to exist a gang of banditti who set their
chief at defiance, and robbed every one they met. Captain Cook,
however, landed and quietly took possession of a house with two chiefs
in it, who were kept as hostages till the articles were returned. On
another occasion, at the request of Oree, he, with a strong party of
armed men, landed, and went in pursuit of the thieves; but Oedidee, who
was with them, became alarmed, and warned the captain that they were
being led into an ambush to be destroyed. From the strict discipline,
however, kept up by the party, this (even should the natives have
intended treachery) was rendered impossible. In spite of these
drawbacks the people brought cocoanuts and other fruits, and two young
chiefs presented to the captain a pig, a dog, and some young plantain
trees, the usual peace offerings. Notwithstanding this good feeling, he
caused several volleys to be fired to show the natives the power and
effect of musketry, for the young officers and others who went on shore
shooting with muskets were so very inexpert in their use that they had
brought firearms somewhat into contempt.
On the 21st a fleet of sixty canoes was seen steering for Ulietea. The
people on board them were Eareeoies, going to visit their brethren in
the neighbouring islands. They formed a secret society, and seemed to
have customs which they would not explain. Infanticide appeared to be
almost universal among them, and they had many other practices of a most
abominable character. Cava-drinking and acting plays seemed to be the
principal amusements of the chiefs of this island.
Early on the morning of the 23rd the ship put to sea. The good old
chief Oree was the last man who left her. When told by the captain that
he should see him no more, he wept, and said, "Let your sons come; we
will treat them well."
The next day, it having been calm all night, the Resolution reached
Ulietea. While warping into a secure berth, the captain's old friend,
Oreo, with several other persons, came off, bringing presents. On
returning the visit, the captain and his companions were met at the door
of the house by five old women, who had been cutting their heads with
sharks' teeth, and now, while the blood was streaming down their faces,
insisted on saluting their visitors. Directly afterwards they went out,
washed themselves, and returned, appearing as cheerful as any of the
company. A large number of people had collected on shore near the ship;
they were said to be Eareeoies, and they continued feasting for several
days. There, as at the other islands, plays were acted for the
amusement of the visitors.
Ulietea was Oedidee's native island, and here he took leave of his
English friends, whom he left "with a regret fully demonstrative of his
esteem and affection; nor could anything have torn him from them but the
fear of never returning." The captain declares that he had not words to
describe the anguish of this young man when he went away. "He looked up
at the ship, burst into tears, and then sank down into the canoe."
This young South Sea Islander is described as "a youth of good parts,
and of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition," and as one who would
have been--physically at least--a better specimen of the people than
Omai. It is to be feared that he returned to his home, after his
lengthened cruise with his English patrons, without having received any
real benefit from the intercourse. So far as can be learned, "no man
had cared for his soul."
After leaving Ulietea, the Resolution proceeded westward on her voyage,
being cautiously navigated at night, and having all sails set in the
daytime. The first land seen was Howe Island, previously discovered by
Captain Wallis; the next was an island before unknown, to which was
given the name of Palmerston.
On June 20 more land was in sight. This proved to be an island about
eleven leagues in circuit, and standing well out of the sea, having deep
water close into its shores. As this island was perceived to be
inhabited, Captain Cook was induced to go on shore with a party of
explorers, and endeavoured to open communication with the natives. They
were found, however, to be fierce and intractable, furiously attacking
the visitors with stones and darts. Two or three muskets discharged in
the air did not hinder them from advancing still nearer, and one of them
threw a long dart or spear which narrowly missed the captain, passing
close over his shoulder. The boldness and fury of this man nearly cost
him his life, for, aroused by the instinct of self-preservation, and
probably also by, momentary anger, Captain Cook raised a musket he
carried, and pointing it at his assailant, who was only a few paces off,
he pulled the trigger. Happily, the weapon missed fire, and the English
commander was spared the after-remorse of needless bloodshed, for the
explorers, or the invaders and intruders, as the natives considered
them, reached their boat, and afterwards their ship, unharmed.
In consequence of the apparent disposition and the behaviour of the
people, the island received from Cook the name of Savage Island, a name
it still bears, although the inhabitants no longer merit the appellation
of Savage Islanders.
After leaving this island, the ship's course was west-south-west, and on
June 25 a string of islands was seen ahead when the wind dropped. The
next morning more islands were seen and soundings found. The islands in
sight proved to be those of the Tonga group to which Cook had given the
name of the Friendly Islands. A canoe came boldly off, and the people
in her pointed out Anamocka, or Rotterdam, towards which the ship
proceeded, and anchored on the north side of the island. The natives
came off in their canoes in great numbers, and exchanged yams and
shaddocks for nails and old rags; but, as usual, some began to pilfer,
and one man got hold of the lead-line, which he would not relinquish
till fired at.
On the captain and some of the officers going on shore, they were
received with great courtesy by the natives, who assisted in filling the
water-casks and rolling them down to the beach, contented with a few
nails as payment. When, however, the surgeon was afterwards out
shooting by himself, having been left on shore, a fellow seized his
fowling-piece and made off with it. Afterwards, when the watering party
were on shore, Mr Gierke's gun was snatched from him, and several of
the cooper's tools were carried off. This style of proceeding, if
allowed, would have hazarded the safety of all on board; the captain,
therefore, who had been summoned, sent off for the marines, while two or
three guns were fired from the ship to alarm Mr Forster, who was on
shore. Several of the natives remained, who acted with their usual
courtesy, and long before the marines arrived Mr Clerke's gun was
brought back. As the other was not restored, two large double
sailing-canoes were seized by the marines on their landing; and one man,
making resistance, was fired at with small shot. This showed the
natives that the English were in earnest, and the musket was returned;
but an adze had also been carried off, and it was insisted that this
also should be brought back. The chiefs thought that the captain wanted
the man who had been wounded, and whom they said was dead. Soon
afterwards he was brought up, stretched out on a board, and apparently
lifeless. Captain Cook was very much shocked at first, till, examining
the body, he found that the man was alive and only slightly hurt. His
wounds were dressed by the surgeon, who soon afterwards arrived, and a
poultice of sugar-cane was applied to prevent inflammation. A present
recompensed to some extent what the poor man suffered. No person of any
consequence was seen by the voyagers while they remained here. Several
lofty islands were seen in the group--among them Amattagoa, whose summit
was veiled in clouds, and was rightly supposed to be a volcano. Many of
the islands in the South Seas are volcanic, and in some of them the
volcanoes are in full activity. That of Kilanea, in the Sandwich
Islands, often presents a spectacle of awful fury and grandeur.
After leaving the Friendly Islands, and calling, on July 1, at Turtle
Island, a brisk gale carried the ship on for some distance, till, on the
15th, high land was seen to the south-west. This was the _Australia del
Espirito Santo_ of Quiros; it also went by the name of the great
Cyclades. After exploring the coast for some days, the captain came to
an anchor in a harbour in the island of Mallicollo, where one of his
objects was to open friendly communication with the natives.
A number of these came off, some in canoes, others swimming. They
exchanged arrows tipped with bone for pieces of cloth, while two who
ventured on deck received presents. The next morning so many made their
appearance, and with such increased confidence, that after a large
number had boarded the ship it was found necessary to refuse admittance
to others. Upon this one of the repulsed natives threatened to shoot a
boat-keeper in one of the boats. In the confusion that ensued Captain
Cook came on deck, when the savage turned his arrow toward him. Upon
this the captain, who had a gun in his hand loaded with small shot,
fired at his assailant, who, being but slightly wounded, still kept his
bow bent in a threatening attitude. Receiving the contents of a second
musket, however, he dropped his bow and paddled off with all speed.
By this time others of the natives had begun to discharge their arrows;
neither did a musket fired over their heads frighten them. It was not
till they heard the thunder of a four-pounder that they were seriously
alarmed; then the natives on deck and in the cabin leaped overboard,
and, with those in the canoes, made their escape as fast as they could.
Directly after the gun was fired drums were heard beating on shore,
probably to summon the people to arms.
The next day the captain landed with a green branch in his hand, and was
met by a chief who also carried one, and these being exchanged a
friendly intercourse was established. The English made signs that they
wished to cut down wood, and permission was granted to them by the
natives to do so. These people, however, set no value on nails or
anything their visitors possessed. They seemed unwilling that any one
should advance beyond the beach, and were only anxious to get rid of the
strangers. When the English left the shore the natives retired in
different directions. In the afternoon a man was seen to bring to the
beach a buoy which had been taken in the night from the kedge anchor.
On a boat being sent it was at once put on board, the man walking off
without saying a word, and this was the only thing which was stolen
while the ship lay there. Some houses, similar to those of the Friendly
Islands, were seen, with plantations of cocoanuts, plantains, yams, and
bread-fruit, and a number of pigs were running about.
Other parts of the shore were visited, but the people kept aloof; and
not till the ship was under way did they come off, showing then every
disposition to trade, and acting with scrupulous honesty. Sometimes,
for instance, they had received articles, and not having given anything
in return, their canoes being shoved off by their companions, they used
every exertion to get back to the ship. They were the most ugly,
ill-proportioned people the explorers had yet seen; dark-coloured and
rather diminutive, with long heads, flat faces, and monkey-like
countenances. Their hair was black or brown, short and curly, but not
so soft or woolly as that of a negro. Their beards were strong, crisp,
and bushy. A belt round the middle curiously contracted that part of
the body, while, with the exception of a wrapper between the legs, they
went naked. The women wore a petticoat, and a bag over their shoulders
in which the children were carried; but none came near the ship. A
piece of white stone, an inch and a half long, with a slight curve in
it, was worn in a hole made through the nose. Their arms were clubs,
spears, and bows and arrows. Some of the officers were very nearly
poisoned by eating portions of two reddish fish, the size of large
bream, caught with hook and line. They were seized with violent pains
in the head and bones, attended by a scorching heat all over the body,
and a numbness of the joints. A pig and dog died from eating the
remainder. It was a week or ten days before the officers quite
recovered. The crews of Quiros had suffered in the same way. He had
named the fish Porgos.
A number of islands were now passed, to which the names of Montagu,
Sandwich, Hitchinbrook, and Shepherd were given; the ship continuing
along the coast to the south-east.
On August 3 the Resolution approached another island, and anchored about
a mile from the shore, when several natives attempted to swim off to
her, but a boat being lowered they returned. The next morning the
captain went off to the shore in search of wood and water, with presents
which he distributed among some people who appeared on the rocks which
line the coast. In return, they offered, as he supposed with a friendly
feeling, to drag the boat through the surf on shore; but he declined the
offer, wishing to have a better place to land at. This he found on a
sandy beach, in a bay where he could land without wetting his feet. To
this spot crowds followed him, headed by a chief, who made them form a
semicircle, while with only a green branch in his hand Cook stepped on
shore. The chief was loaded with presents, which he received
courteously; and when, by signs, water and fruit were asked for, he
immediately sent for some. Still, as all the people were armed with
clubs, spears, bows and arrows, the captain was suspicious of their
intentions, and kept his eye on the chief. Again signs were made by the
natives that they would haul the boat up, and just then the chief
disappeared among the crowd. On this, Cook stepped back into the boat,
making signs that he would soon return. The islanders, however, had no
intention of allowing him to depart, so while some of them laid hold of
the gang-board, and attempted to drag up the boat on to the beach,
others snatched at the oars, and tried to wrest them away from the
sailors. In this predicament, and seeing that neither expostulations
nor menaces were of any avail, the captain raised his musket, pointed it
at the chief, who had again made his appearance, and pulled the trigger;
but, as on a former occasion, the piece missed fire, or only flashed in
the pan. The savages then began throwing stones and darts, and shooting
their arrows. The captain now felt compelled to order his men to fire.
The first discharge threw the savages into confusion, but even a second
was hardly sufficient to drive them off the beach, and they then retired
behind trees and bushes, popping out every now and then to throw a dart.
Four lay to all appearances dead; but two managed to crawl behind the
bushes. Happily, half the muskets missed fire, or more would have been
wounded. One of the boat's crew was badly wounded in the cheek by a
dart, and an arrow shot from a distance struck Mr Gilbert. The
skirmish ended by the English making good their retreat.
On the arrival of the party on board, the ship was got under way and
stood closer in shore; and presently two of the natives appeared with
two oars which had been lost in the scuffle. In a fit of exasperation,
probably on account of the treatment he had received, and of
mortification at his partial defeat, Captain Cook ordered a round shot
to be fired at the men, which, though it proved harmless, had the effect
of driving the men away. They left the oars, however, leaning against
some bushes.
The whole of this unhappy affair seems to have been a series of
misunderstandings. At least, it is not difficult to conceive that the
natives were, at first, friendly disposed; that their offer to haul the
boat upon the beach may have been dictated by kind motives, and that
their subsequent conduct arose from what they might have conceived to be
the suspicious actions of their strange and uninvited visitors. As to
their being armed, and declining to lay down their arms, it is to be
remembered that the English had arms also, which they did not lay down.
It certainly does not seem improbable that if the chief of these poor
barbarians and the English captain could have interchanged a few words,
intelligible on both sides, and so convinced each other of their honest
intentions and wishes, the subsequent fracas might have been prevented;
but this, of course, was out of the question. It is to be feared, too,
that the superiority over all uncivilised nations which the English
voyagers proudly felt themselves to possess gave an air of contemptuous
defiance to their actions which the natives might resent. The firing of
that last shot was not unlikely (together with the previous scuffle) to
provoke feelings of deep enmity, and not only to rankle in the minds and
memories of those present, but to be handed down by tradition to the
next generation, and the next after that, so as to keep up both
detestation of all white men, and dread of their future visits.
These remarks are not uncalled for, nor will they be considered as
without point when the name of the island is given--Erromanga; a name
full of painful associations to all who take an interest in missionary
enterprise, and in the advancement, by human instrumentality, of the
kingdom of the Redeemer. It was here that, sixty-six years afterwards,
the valuable life of one of the foremost in the ranks of modern
Christian missionaries, John Williams, was sacrificed to the hatred of
the whites of which we have just spoken. The proximate incentive to the
murder was revenge for some ill-treatment the natives had shortly before
received from a white man, a sandal-wood trader; but it is probable that
the commencement of their strong dislike to strangers may be traced to
the visit of the Resolution to their native island in 1774.
After leaving Erromanga, the ship steered for another island, which
proved to be Tanna, being directed at night by a great light which was
seen at the east end of it, and which, in the morning, was discovered to
be that of a volcano in full activity. A harbour was found, and two
boats, well armed, were sent in to sound. Here the ship anchored. A
number of armed natives were seen on shore, and soon they began to come
off, some swimming, others in canoes. Some cocoanuts were thrown into
one of the boats, and cloths and other articles were given in return.
This induced more to venture alongside, when they proved themselves to
be most daring thieves; some attempted to knock off the rings from the
rudder, others tried to tear away the fly of the ensign, and a bold
effort was made to run away with the buoys. A musketoon fired over
their heads had the effect of driving them off. Even here there was an
exception to the rule. An old man continually came off to the ship with
fruit, evidently trying to ingratiate himself with the strangers.
Although a very strong party landed in the evening, it was clear to the
voyagers that the natives would have attacked them, had they not, to
avoid bloodshed, quickly embarked. As it was necessary to take in a
fresh supply of wood and water, the ship was warped in close to the
shore, both to overawe the natives, and more easily to get on board what
was wanted. The natives again quickly manifested their thievish
propensities. For instance, a man came off with a club, with which he
struck the ship's side in defiance, and then offered to exchange the
weapon for beads. No sooner, however, did he get them, than he made off
without giving up the club.
Captain Cook had wished for an opportunity of showing the natives the
effect of firearms; some small shot were therefore sent after the thief,
and several musketoons were discharged. As this did not seem to produce
the desired effect, the Resolution was moored with her broadside to the
shore, with her guns placed so as to command the whole harbour. The
captain then landed, with a guard of marines and sailors, all well
armed, hoping by this means to overawe the natives, who assembled in
vast numbers on each side of the landing-place. Instead of being
frightened by the display of strength, they began to use such
threatening gestures that it was thought necessary to file upon them.
This was the signal for the guns to open from the ship. The savages at
once dispersed, but soon came back greatly humbled in manner. The old
man, whose name was Paowang, was the only one who stood his ground, and
was rewarded with gifts. Cook then drew a line on the ground, and
signified to the natives that they must not pass it.
The captain had now every reason to believe that the natives were
induced to be submissive, and taking old Paowang into the forest, he
explained that he wanted wood, and asked permission to cut some down.
This was readily granted, the old man begging only that he would not cut
down any cocoanut trees.
The watering party meanwhile filled the casks; but still the lower
orders were very troublesome. Some buckshot, fired at a man, at last
brought them to order, and now everything seemed to go on pleasantly.
Paowang even brought an axe and several other articles which had been
left on shore; indeed, Cook's demeanour seemed to have won the respect
of the savages, and it was no longer necessary to mark a barrier line,
as they did not press near the tents nor incommode the English when at
work. Yet, savages they were, for they acknowledged voluntarily that
they were cannibals, and asked their visitors if they also did not eat
the flesh of their enemies. Yet they could have no excuse for the
practice, as their island abounded with pigs, and fruit of all sorts.
All this time the English were constantly on their guard; still they ran
no little risk, as they made some excursions up the country, when they
were threatened by parties of natives, who, however, retired when they
turned towards the harbour. It is manifest, however, that the natives
were not badly disposed, but were influenced by the very natural feeling
of jealousy at seeing strangers, whose object they could not comprehend,
attempting to penetrate their country. It would have been difficult to
convince untutored savages, who had been peppered with buckshot, and
fired at with bullets and cannon-balls, that their white visitors were
influenced by the purest feelings of philanthropy, and a disinterested
desire to do them good. Fortunately, the muskets supplied to the
Resolution must have been kept in very bad order, as they missed fire as
often as they went off, or more lives of savages would have been
sacrificed. There is no doubt, as has already been intimated, that
Captain Cook had no delight in exercising cruelty towards the natives of
the places he visited, and believed that he acted in self-defence when
he, as he would have said, was unfortunately called upon to wound and
perhaps to slay them. It may be added, also, that he frequently had
great trouble in restraining the ardour of his officers, who were not
troubled with so nice a conscience as the captain's regarding the lives
of the savages.
On one occasion, for instance, some native boys (little mischievous
urchins, no doubt) who had got into a thicket near where a party were
cutting wood, and had thrown stones, were fired at by some of the petty
officers. The captain was very much displeased at so wanton a use being
made of firearms, and took measures, as he thought, to prevent it for
the future; but not long afterwards, to his horror, he saw a sentry
level his musket, and before he could cry out, the soldier had fired and
shot a native dead. The marine's only excuse was that he saw a native
bending his bow, an act they often performed without intending to shoot.
After all, the sentry did not kill the man who bent the bow, but
another who was standing near.
Among the excursions made by the officers was one towards the volcano,
which, however, they could not reach. It was in such furious eruption
that the air was filled with dust and ashes, and when it rained they
were covered with mud. On their way they passed a spot emitting columns
of smoke, and near the harbour hot springs were discovered; a
thermometer placed in one of them rose to 170 degrees.
Although the people of this island had no notion of the use of iron,
they were not so savage as at first appeared; their plantations were
carefully cultivated, and produced sugar-canes and yams, bread-fruit,
plantains, and cocoanuts. They had, however, one of the chief
characteristics of savages--the women carried all the burdens, and were
compelled to do every description of hard work. Though dark, they had
not the peculiarities of the negro race, but they made themselves darker
than they were by painting their skins. They differed in many respects
from the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, both in appearance and
language. Their dwellings were of some size, but had no walls, being
merely roofs--looking like those of English barns taken off their walls
and placed on the ground. Their canoes were tolerably well constructed,
but though their shores abounded with fish, they had no notion of
catching them with nets or lines, the only way being to spear them as
they swam by.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
On the morning of August 20 the ship left Resolution Harbour, [so-called
by Captain Cook, because the Resolution had anchored there,] in Tanna,
and continued the survey along the coasts of this extensive group of
islands. A large number of natives were seen at the south-west side of
Mallicollo, and on the opposite shore a brief communication was held
with apparently another race of people, who came off in numerous small
outrigger canoes. Though gifts were handed to them, they could not be
induced to come up the side, or even to take hold of a rope.
The scenery of the coast in all directions was much admired; the
vegetation was most luxuriant; every hill was chequered with
plantations, and every valley was watered by a sparkling stream. The
survey of the group being at length completed, the Resolution stood away
towards New Zealand. The supposed continent of Quiros had dwindled into
a small island, and, as Captain Cook took his departure from the
south-west point in latitude 15 degrees 40 minutes, longitude 165
degrees 59 minutes, he named it Cape Lisbourne. The Resolution
continued her course to the south-west, from September 1 till the 4th,
when land was discovered bearing south-south-west, and extending round
for some leagues. Breakers were seen half-way between the ship and the
shore, and inside them were several canoes, evidently coming off, but as
night fell they returned. The night was spent in standing off and on
the land, and the next morning, the boats having discovered a channel
through the reef, the ship stood in and came to anchor. She was
immediately surrounded by a number of natives, who came off in eighteen
canoes. They were entirely unarmed, and apparently well disposed. Some
presents were thrown to them, for which they offered two stale fish in
return, and, confidence being established, numbers crowded on board.
Some were asked into the cabin to dinner. They showed, however, no
curiosity to taste the pea-soup, salt beef, or pork, but ate some yams.
Except a curious wrapper generally in use these people were entirely
naked. They seemed intelligent, and examined with considerable interest
the goats, hogs, dogs, and cats on board, which, it was evident, they
had never before seen. They valued spike-nails and cloth of all
colours, but red cloth they preferred. A young chief was seen in one of
the canoes, but did not come on board. After dinner, Captain Cook,
accompanied by a native, landed with two armed boats' crews. The beach
was thronged with people, and the native pointed out those to whom
presents should be given, mostly old men; among them was the chief,
Teabooma, who soon calling for silence addressed the people, apparently
in favour of the strangers. All the chiefs in succession made speeches,
the old men giving a grunt and a nod of approbation at the end of each
sentence. The captain kept his eyes on the people all the time, and was
completely convinced of their good intentions. Having made signs that
water was wanting, his native friend conducted them along the coast,
lined with mangroves, to a creek, on going up which, above the
mangroves, a straggling village appeared; the ground around being laid
out in well cultivated plantations of sugar-canes, plantains, yams, and
other roots, watered by rills conducted from the main stream, whose
source was in the hills. Here was an abundance of fresh water. Among
other things, some roots were seen baking in an earthen jar, holding
from six to eight gallons, apparently manufactured by the natives. On
their way Mr Forster shot a duck, which the native begged to have, that
he might explain to his countrymen how it was killed. The party
returned on board at sunset, convinced that they were not likely to
obtain provisions at the place, as it did not appear to produce more
than the inhabitants themselves required, although it was clear that
they were ready to give what they could, for a more obliging, civil,
pleasant people had not been met with during the voyage. Hundreds came
on board the ship, but not a theft was committed. One of them, who had
attached himself to Captain Cook, brought some roots; a few of the
others had weapons, such as clubs and darts, which they willingly
exchanged for nails and pieces of cloth. A present had been made up for
Teabooma, who, however, slipped out of the ship, and lost it. A good
watering-place was found, not far off, up a creek; but as only a small
boat could enter it the casks were rolled over the beach, and put on
board the launch. Plenty of fuel could also be procured.
An excursion on shore gave the explorers a better idea of the island
than they could otherwise have possessed. They were accompanied by
several natives, the numbers increasing as they advanced, till they had
a large _cortege_. Reaching the summit of a rocky hill, the sea was
observed in two places on the opposite side between the heights, thus
enabling them to calculate the width of the island. Below them was a
large valley, through which ran a river, on whose banks were several
villages and plantations, while the flat land which lay along the shore
appeared to great advantage; the winding streams running through it, the
plantations, the little straggling villages, the variety in the woods,
the shoals on the coast, with the blue sea and the white breakers, made
up a very beautiful and picturesque scene. The country in general bore
a strong resemblance to parts of New Holland, under the same latitude;
several of its natural productions appeared to be the same; while the
forests, as in that country, were without underwood. The general aspect
of the island was, however, that of a dreary waste; the sides of the
mountains and other places being of hard rock, or of a thin soil baked
by the sun. Even these unpromising spots were, however, covered with a
coarse grass, which though of no use, as there were no cattle to feed on
it, would afford pasture to numberless sheep if they were to be
introduced into the island. There was a good supply of fish on the
coast; but one day a somewhat ugly-looking one being dressed for supper,
the captain and the two Mr Forsters, though they did but taste the
liver and roe, were seized with a numbness and weakness over their
limbs. An emetic and a sudorific considerably relieved them by the
morning, but a pig which ate the fish died. A native who had sold the
fish did not warn the buyer, though its poisonous character seems to
have been known to the people, for, on seeing the skin hanging up the
next morning, they expressed their utmost abhorrence of it, and
intimated that it was not fit to eat. The captain was anxious to
benefit the people as far as his short stay would allow; he, therefore,
presented a dog and a bitch to Teabooma, who seemed delighted with the
gift; indeed, he could scarcely suppose that the animals were for him.
A boar and a sow were also intended for him, but as he was not then to
be found they were given to another chief, or head man, and his family,
who promised to take care of them. These people had made some advance
out of the purely savage state. Their dwellings were circular, very
thickly thatched, something like a beehive, and very close and warm.
Many had two fireplaces, and some had two storeys, spread with mats and
grass. As the entrance was very small, and there was no other outlet
for the smoke, the heat was intolerable. It was strange that natives of
so hot a climate should delight in all the extra heat they could get.
Outside the huts were little pyramids, five together. On the point of
the pyramids the clay pots in which they cooked their food were placed,
not upright, but on the sides, the fire being lighted beneath. The
canoes of the islanders were large, but rude and clumsy in build; and
they constructed double canoes formed of the trunks of two trees
fastened together, much in the fashion of the other double canoes of the
Pacific. They had sometimes one, and sometimes two, lateen sails,
composed of pieces of matting, the ropes being made of the coarse
filaments of the plantain tree. When they could not sail they were
propelled by sculls, the handles of which rose, nearly upright, four
feet above the deck.
On standing down the coast, some objects were seen which the scientific
gentlemen insisted were basaltic pillars, like those of the Giant's
Causeway in Ireland, contrary to the opinion of the captain, who held
that they were trees of a peculiar growth. An island was discovered to
the south of the large island, and the name of the Isle of Pines was
given to it, on account of the number of tall trees growing thereon, and
which the philosophers still maintained were basaltic pillars. It was
not without some difficulty that, at length, the ship got near enough to
the Isle of Pines to enable the captain, with a party of officers, to
land on one of the islets connected with it. The objects observed were
found to be a species of spruce pine, admirably fitted for masts and
spars. After dinner, therefore, two boats went on shore with the
carpenter and his crew, and as many spars as were required were cut
down. It was of this tree that the natives made their canoes. The
island on which the party landed was called Botany Island.
The Resolution got under way on October 1. Soon afterwards a gale
sprang up, which, in spite of all the exertions which could be made,
rendered the further survey of the group impossible. She therefore bore
away for New Zealand.
New Caledonia, thus discovered, Captain Cook considered to be, with the
exception of New Zealand, the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean,
being about eighty-seven leagues long, extending from the north-west to
south-east, that is, from latitude 19 degrees 37 minutes to 22 degrees
30 minutes South, and from longitude 163 degrees 37 minutes to 167
degrees 14 minutes East, although its width is nowhere very
considerable.
The ship stood on about west-south-west till October 10, when land was
discovered--an island of good height, five leagues in circuit, to which,
as a compliment to the family of Howard, the name of Norfolk Island was
given. The ship stood in, when after dinner two boats landed without
difficulty behind some large rocks. The island was found to be
uninhabited, and probably no human being had ever before set foot on its
shore. Many trees and plants common in New Zealand were observed,
especially the flax plant, which here appeared to be more luxuriant than
in any part of that country. A spruce pine also grew in abundance, and
to a great size, and there were also found a number of cabbage palms.
They had large pinnated leaves, and the cabbage is, properly speaking,
the bad of the tree. Each tree produces but one crown, which grows out
of the stem, and by cutting this out the tree is destroyed. As many as
could be collected were carried on board, and proved very welcome. The
voyage to New Zealand was then continued.
On October 17 Mount Egmont was seen, and the next day the ship anchored
at the entrance of Ship Cove, a strong wind preventing her getting in.
The day after she warped up, and being moored, the usual preparations
were made for carrying on operations on shore. The forge was set up,
and coopers' and sail-makers' tents were erected. For several days no
natives appeared. The gardens were visited, and several of the plants
were in a flourishing condition. When the natives did appear their
conduct was very strange. At first they kept at a distance, with their
weapons in their hands; but when they recognised Captain Cook and his
officers, they danced and skipped about like madmen, though even then
they would not let any of their women come near.
Several of them talked about killing, but their language was so
imperfectly understood that no meaning could at first be gathered from
what they said. The following story was made out, however, before
long:--The natives said that a ship like the Resolution had been lost in
the strait, and that some of the people got on shore, when the natives
stole their clothes, for which several were shot; that afterwards, when
the sailors could fire no longer, the natives rushed in and killed them
with their clubs and spears, and ate them. The narrators declared that
they themselves had no hand in the matter, which occurred at some
distance along the coast.
Friendly relations were at once established with the natives the English
had first met, who brought a good supply of fish, which they willingly
exchanged for Otaheite cloth. Cook's training in the merchant service
had given him some useful notions with regard to mercantile principles,
and in many other cases, as well as in this, he purchased articles with
the view of taking them to another market, where their value would be
increased. Still, though Cook was trying to do the natives all the good
in his power, it was evident that they were shy of the English. Their
more intimate friends at last acknowledged that the Adventure had been
there, and though the captain's mind was relieved with regard to her, he
still feared that some disaster had occurred to another vessel along the
coast. He probably was, as usual, on his guard, and careful in
preventing any causes of dispute between his people and the natives, or
he himself might have had to experience the effects of New Zealand
treachery.
On November 10 the Resolution left Queen Charlotte's Sound for the last
time, and steered south-by-east, with a fine wind, Cook's intention
being to get into latitude 54 degrees or 55 degrees, and to cross the
ocean nearly in those parallels, thus to pass over those parts which
were left unexplored the previous summer.
On the evening of December 17 the west coast of Tierra del Fuego, near
the entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, was made; and now Captain
Cook says that he had done with the South Pacific, but he had a sound
ship and a healthy crew, and he resolved to accomplish some more work
before returning home. Among other things, he made a survey of the
coasts he was now on. Nothing could be more desolate than those shores.
They seemed entirely composed of rocky mountains, without the least
appearance of vegetation, the mountains terminating in horrible
precipices, while their craggy summits shot up to a vast height. The
mountains seen inland were covered with snow, but those nearer the sea
coasts were free from it. The former were supposed to belong to the
mainland of Tierra del Fuego, while the latter were probably islands.
The ship at length was brought to an anchor, on December 20, in one of
the numerous harbours in which the otherwise inhospitable-looking coast
abounds. This was called Christmas Sound, as the ship remained at
anchor during Christmas Day. An abundance of wild-fowl were shot here,
so that the Christmas fare consisted of roast and boiled geese, goose
pie, goose stew, and goose in every form which could be thought of,
accompanied, in the cabin, by some Madeira, the only article of their
provisions which had improved by keeping.
Some natives made their appearance here in nine canoes. They were a
little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. They were almost naked,
their clothing being merely two or three seal-skins, sewed together to
form a cloak reaching to the knee. Most of them had only one seal-skin,
and the women had a sort of apron, but in other respects were clothed
like the men. Some young children were seen entirely naked, so that
they must be inured to cold and hardships from their infancy. They had
with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone,
fitted to a staff. These were probably intended to kill fish and seals,
or perhaps whales, as the Esquimaux do. That they were accustomed to
the use of train oil the noses of the officers had powerful evidence;
indeed, it was far from pleasant to approach them. Their canoes were
made of bark, and in each was a fire, round which the women and children
huddled. There was also a large seal-skin, perhaps to form a covering
to a hut on shore. As these people seemed well acquainted with
Europeans, it was considered probable that they moved during the winter
more to the northward. They called themselves Pecheras, at least that
word was continually in their mouths. "Of all the people I have ever
seen, these Pecheras are the most wretched," says Cook; "they are doomed
to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without
having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as
might render life in some measure more comfortable." Yet, unattractive
as were these people, they had souls as precious in the sight of a
loving Saviour as those of the more intelligent and attractive
inhabitants of Otaheite. It was in the attempt to carry the glad
tidings of salvation to people such as these that the noble-minded
Captain Allan Gardiner lost his life; and it is for the sake of people
sunk as low as were these in the scale of humanity that missionaries are
labouring in many other parts of the earth.
A good supply of wood and water having been obtained at Christmas Sound,
the Resolution got under way again on the 28th, and steered towards Cape
Horn, which she rounded the next morning. She now steered East by North
a half East for the Straits of Le Maire, with a view of looking into
Success Bay, to ascertain if the Adventure had been there. A boat,
commanded by Lieutenant Pickersgill, was sent on shore, but no traces of
her were found. A notice, however, was left nailed to a tree, in case
Captain Furneaux should afterwards touch there. Some natives appeared
who behaved very courteously to Lieutenant Pickersgill, and made signs
to him to bring in the ship. The bay was full of whales and seals;
indeed, great numbers had been seen in the straits. At last, the
Resolution came to an anchor near an island, on which seals had been
observed. After dinner three boats were hoisted out and landed with a
large party of men, some to kill seals or sea-lions, and others to kill
or catch birds, fish, or whatever came in their way. The sea-lions,
with which the island was covered, were so unaccustomed to the sight of
man that they did not attempt to escape, and were knocked on the head
with sticks and clubs. The only danger was by getting between them and
the water, when, as they came floundering on, they were likely to knock
down and rush over any one thus placed. A large supply of sea-lions,
bears, geese, and ducks was soon obtained. The old lions were killed
solely for the sake of their blubber, from which oil was extracted, for
their flesh was abominable, but that of the cubs was considered very
good, and even that of the lionesses was not amiss.
Once more, on January 3, 1775, the Resolution was at sea, steering an
easterly course, in search of land said to exist in about the latitude
53 degrees or 54 degrees. At nine o'clock on the morning of the 13th
land was seen by a man named Willis. At first it was taken for an
iceberg, but on their drawing nearer the appearance changed, and
soundings being found, with a muddy bottom, at one hundred and
seventy-five fathoms, there was no doubt that it was really land, and
the name of the discoverer was given to it. Passing between Willis
Island and another islet, called Bird Island, land was seen extending
for a considerable distance. The ship ranged along it, about a league
from the shore, for part of two days, till an inlet appeared, towards
which the ship steered. Instead, however, of the ship going in, a boat
was hoisted out, and the captain, with Mr Forster and others, embarked
in her to survey the bay. They landed in three different places,
displayed the British flag, and took possession of the country in his
Majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms.
The appearance of the territory thus added to the dominion of Great
Britain was not attractive. The head of the bay, as well as two
portions on either side, consisted of perpendicular ice cliffs of
considerable height. Pieces were continually breaking off and floating
out to sea, and even while they were in the bay huge masses fell which
made a noise like the discharge of a cannon. The inner parts of the
country were not less savage and horrible. Wild rocks raised their
lofty summits till they were lost in the clouds, and even the valleys
were covered with everlasting snow. Not a tree was to be seen, nor even
a shrub big enough to make a toothpick. The only vegetation met with
was a coarse, strong-bladed grass, growing in tufts, wild burnet, and a
plant like moss, which sprang from the rocks.
Seals or sea-bears were pretty numerous, and so were penguins; some very
large, weighing from twenty-nine to thirty-eight pounds, were brought on
board. At first it was hoped that the land now discovered was part of a
great continent, but by going partly round it it was discovered to be an
island of about seventy leagues in circuit, and the name of the Isle of
Georgia was given to it. It seemed to answer very little purpose, for
though the island lies between the latitudes of 54 degrees and 55
degrees, the whole coast was a mass of ice and snow even in the middle
of summer. "The disappointment I felt did not, I must confess, affect
me much," says Cook, "for to judge of the bulk by the sample, it would
not be worth the discovery." Various other islets and rocks were seen,
when, believing that no other discovery of importance would be made
thereabouts, on January 25 the Resolution continued her course, steering
east-south-east.
On the 31st several islands and a considerable extent of land were
discovered, to which the name of Sandwich Land, or Southern Thule, was
given, as it was the most southern land then known. It showed a surface
of great height, everywhere covered with snow. While the Resolution was
close in with this coast, the wind fell, and left her to the mercy of a
great westerly swell, which set right upon the shore. A line of two
hundred fathoms found no bottom. The weather became hazy; the coast
could not be seen. A most fearful wreck now seemed inevitable, when the
fog cleared away, and a point (Cape Bristol) appeared, bearing
east-south-east, beyond which no land could be seen. This discovery
relieved the explorers from the dread of being carried by the swell on
to one of the most horrible coasts in the world. After undergoing this
and similar fearful risks, it was scarcely necessary for Cook to make
any apology for leaving this inhospitable region, and proceeding in
search of the long-sought-for Cape Circumcision. He sailed over and
round the spot where it was said to lie, and became thoroughly convinced
that no cape, indeed no land, lies thereabouts. He was soon sure that
if there was land it would only be a small island, from the long
southerly swell which was found in that latitude.
What we are most struck with is the hardihood and fine seamanship
displayed by Captain Cook and his officers in this run across the
Antarctic Ocean. It was the summer season, and the nights were short;
but they had to encounter storms and bitter cold, ice, and snow, and
hail, with the risk, at any moment, of running on an iceberg or some
hidden rock; but still greater was the risk when such inhospitable
shores as those of Tierra del Fuego, or Staten Island, or the Isle of
Georgia, or Southern Thule were to be explored.
A course was now steered for the Cape of Good Hope, greatly to the
delight of all on board. On March 16 two sails were seen in the
north-west, standing westward, one of them under Dutch colours, a sign
that they were once more approaching civilised regions. In the evening
land was seen. In pursuance of his instructions, the captain now
demanded of the officers and petty officers the log-books and journals
which they had kept, and which were sealed up for the inspection of the
Admiralty. The officers and men were also especially charged not to say
where they had been until they had received the permission of the Lords
of the Admiralty.
Several other ships were now met with, one of which proved to be the
True Briton, Captain Broadly, from China, bound direct home. With that
liberality for which commanders of East India Company's ships were
famed, Captain Broadly sent on board the Resolution a present of a
supply of fresh provisions, tea, and other articles, which were most
acceptable. A heavy gale kept the Resolution from entering the harbour.
At length, however, on Wednesday, March 22, according to the ship's
reckoning, but with the people on shore Tuesday, the 21st, she anchored
in Table Bay. Finding an East India Company's ship homeward bound,
Captain Cook sent by her a copy of his journal, charts, and other
drawings, to reduce the risk of the result of his enterprise being lost.
He also found here a letter from Captain Furneaux, from which the
mysterious conduct of the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound was
completely explained. It was as follows:--On December 17, 1773, the
large cutter, with ten men under charge of Mr Rowe, a midshipman, had
been sent on shore to gather greens for the ship's company, with orders
to return that evening. On their non-appearance another boat was sent,
under the command of Lieutenant Barney, when the mutilated remains of
the cutter's crew were discovered, some parts scattered about on the
beach, and others carefully packed with fern leaves, in baskets,
evidently intended for the oven. It was clear that some quarrel had
arisen, and that after the unfortunate men had discharged their muskets
they had been clubbed by the natives. It was afterwards discovered, by
the acknowledgment of the natives, that they themselves had been the
aggressors, having stolen some of the seamen's clothes, and that then
they pretended to make up the quarrel, but that finding the party seated
at dinner, and utterly unsuspicious of evil, they had rushed down on
them and killed them all. After this misfortune the Adventure sailed
for the Cape of Good Hope, and thence returned to England.
Captain Cook speaks of the great courtesy and kindness he received from
the Dutch authorities, as well as from the residents, and of the
abundance of good provisions which he obtained. On April 27, the
repairs of the ship being completed, the Resolution sailed in company
with the Dutton, East Indiaman, for Saint Helena, and was saluted with
thirteen guns. She was also saluted by a Spanish and Danish Indiaman as
she passed them--she, of course, returning the salutes.
At daylight on May 15 the island of Saint Helena was sighted. It, at
that time, belonged to the East India Company, and was laid out chiefly
in pasture, in order that their ships might here obtain supplies of
fresh meat.
The Resolution anchored off Ascension on May 28, and found some vessels
from America come to load with turtle. A good supply was taken on
board, and on the 31st she again sailed. On June 9 the island of
Fernando de Moronha was sighted, and was found to be in possession of
the Portuguese. Without anchoring, the Resolution continued her course
for the Azores, at one of which, Fayal, she anchored on July 13. Among
several vessels there was one belonging to the place, which had taken in
a cargo of provisions at the Amazon, for the Cape de Verde Islands, but
had been unable to find them--a specimen of Portuguese navigation not at
all singular even in later days. The Resolution sailed on the 19th,
passing the island of Terceira, and on the 29th made the land near
Plymouth, and the next morning anchored at Spithead. The same day
Captain Cook landed at Portsmouth, with Messrs. Wales, Forster, and
Hodges, and set off for London. He had been absent from England three
years and eighteen days, and during that time had lost but four men, and
only one of them by sickness. This was owing, under Providence, to the
very great care taken of the health of the people. All means were used
to induce the crew to keep their persons, hammocks, bedding, and clothes
clean and dry. The ship, once or twice a week, was aired with fires,
and when this could not be done she was smoked with gunpowder mixed with
vinegar and water. There was frequently a fire in an iron pot at the
bottom of the well. The ship's coppers were kept carefully clean, fresh
water being taken on board whenever practicable. Of remedies against
scurvy the sweet-wort was proved to be most valuable. At the slightest
appearance of the disease two or three pints a day were given to each
man. A pound of sour-krout was supplied to each man, twice a week, at
sea. Preparations of potatoes, lemons, and oranges were served out with
good effect. Sugar was found useful, as was wheaten flour, while
oatmeal and oil were considered to promote the scurvy--such oil, at
least, as was served to the Navy. Olive oil would probably have had a
different effect. Captain Cook thus concludes his journal of the
voyage:--"But whatever may be the public judgment about other matters,
it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of
attention to my duty, that I can conclude this account with an
observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered
the possibility of preserving health amongst a numerous ship's company
for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such
continued hardships and fatigues, will make this voyage remarkable in
the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a
southern continent shall have ceased to engage the attention and to
divide the judgment of philosophers."
In concluding this account of Captain Cook's second voyage round the
world it is well, while admitting the value of the discoveries made, and
admiring the perseverance and general prudence and kindness of the
discoverer, to express deep regret that the scrupulous and unremitting
care exercised over the physical health of the crew was not, with equal
assiduity and anxiety, manifested in respect of their spiritual health.
Those were not the days in which the souls of sailors were much cared
for; but it may be supposed that the character of this expedition,
together with the unusual number of educated gentlemen on board,
furnished facilities for Christian exertion which certainly were not
improved. So far, indeed, as the existing records of this voyage inform
us, we are led to the conclusion that instead of setting an example of
morality and virtue to the ignorant heathen they visited, it would, in
many instances, have been better for the heathen had they never known
these so-called Christians.
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Note 1. Among sailors, a ship is said to be _crank_ when the rigging is
too weighty for the hull, so as to risk being upset.
Note 2. It seems strange that this "horrid proceeding" should have been
permitted on board the English ship; and that Captain Cook, with his
well-established character, should have stood by and witnessed it, is
unaccountable.