The point of land first made to the north of Poverty Bay proved to be

the most eastern part of New Zealand, and was called East Cape. The

Endeavour was now steered to the south. An island close to the main was

passed, which, from its similarity to Portland in Dorsetshire, received

the same name. A number of natives were here seen seated on the cliffs

watching the ship's movements. When she suddenly got close to a reef,

and there was some sign of confusion on board, they showed a disposition

to attack her. Canoes at different times came off, and in one the

people performed certain ceremonies, sometimes offering peace, and then

threatening war. Five large canoes full of armed men soon after came

off. As the boat's crew were sounding, it was necessary to drive them

away. A musket fired over their heads had no effect, but a four-pounder

charged with grape shot, though fired wide, put them to flight.

Farther along the coast, the next morning, nine or ten large canoes,

which must have contained little short of two hundred men, came off.

When the first five were within a hundred yards of the ship, the natives

began to sing their war-songs and to brandish their weapons. Tupia, on

this, was ordered to inform them of the power and effects of the English

thunder-making arms, and a four-pounder loaded with grape was fired wide

of them. The result was satisfactory, and the natives went peaceably

away. The following day another fleet of canoes came alongside, and

though they had only stale fish to sell, Captain Cook accepted it for

the sake of encouraging traffic. The natives, however, showed every

disposition to take advantage of the strangers, and one of them having

agreed to exchange a black cloak for a piece of red cloth, on receiving

the cloth, packed it in a basket with the cloak, which he refused to

give up, and made off with both cloth and cloak. Among those who were

leaning over the ship's side to hand up the articles purchased from the

natives was Tupia's boy, Tayeto. One of the natives, watching his

opportunity, suddenly seized the boy, and dragging him over, held him

down in the canoe, which made off. The marines on deck were ordered to

fire, and to aim at the end of the canoe farthest away from the boy.

One of the natives was seen to fall, when the other let go his hold of

Tayeto, who leaped overboard and swam to the ship. A boat was lowered,

and he was taken up unhurt, but dreadfully frightened. The canoes made

towards the shore, and it was observed that three men were lifted out of

them, either killed or badly wounded.

In this instance the natives actually deserved the punishment they

received. Captain Cook called the headland off which this circumstance

occurred Cape Kidnappers. When Tayeto recovered from his fright he took

a fish to Tupia, that he might offer it to his Etua. Tupia praised him,

and ordered him to throw it into the sea.

Captain Cook having now stood to the southward for a considerable

distance without finding a harbour, tacked and stood to the northward,

in hope of being more successful in that direction. The ship was off a

high bluff headland with yellowish cliffs, which was accordingly called

Cape Turnagain. Soon afterwards two chiefs and their three attendants

paddled off, and willingly came on board. One of the chiefs had a very

pleasing and honest expression of countenance. Though they would not

eat, they seemed disposed to be very friendly, so much so that they

insisted on remaining on board all night. The next morning they were

somewhat surprised at finding themselves so far from the shore, but went

away without hesitation. As the ship sailed along, several canoes came

off to her, a few at a time. In one were two old chiefs, who, with many

expressions of goodwill, invited the strangers on shore. The surf

prevented their going, but in the evening, the wind moderating, Captain

Cook, with Mr Banks and Dr Solander, landed, and were received in a

most friendly manner. The natives took care not to appear in large

bodies, the members of two or three families only keeping together.

These little companies sat on the ground, and by signs invited their

visitors to draw near. These indications of a friendly disposition

determined the commander to fill his casks with water at this place.

The next morning, while this operation was going forward, Mr Banks and

Dr Solander walked along the shore of the bay by themselves without

anxiety, and collected numerous plants. They visited several huts, and

found the inhabitants at dinner, their food consisting, at this time of

the year, of fish and the root of a large fern. The roots were prepared

by scorching them over a fire, and then beating them till the charred

bark fell off. The remainder was a clammy, soft substance, not

unpleasant to the taste, but mixed with three times its bulk of fibres,

which could not be swallowed. This part was spat out into baskets ready

at hand for its reception. No animals were seen, except some ugly

little dogs. Carefully cultivated and closely fenced plantations of

sweet potatoes and other vegetables were seen. The women were plain,

and had their faces painted with red ochre and oil; the men generally

did not follow the latter custom, but one man was observed who had a

piece of yellow ochre in his hand, with which he renewed the coloured

decorations on his person whenever he supposed them to be deficient.

Mr Banks and others, having remained on shore after the boats had gone

off with the casks, were brought on board by the natives in one of their

canoes. Indeed, all the intercourse with the people in this place was

carried on in the most friendly manner.

At the watering-place the natives entertained their visitors with a

war-song, in which the women joined, with horrid distortions of

countenance, rolling their eyes, thrusting out their tongues and heaving

deep sighs, all keeping perfect time. A canoe was seen here,

sixty-eight feet and a half long, five broad, and three feet and a half

deep; she had a sharp bottom, consisting of three trunks of trees

hollowed; the side planks were sixty-two feet long in one piece, carved

in bas-relief; the head being still more richly carved. A large

unfinished house was also visited; the side ports were carved in a

masterly style, though with whimsical taste. The bay was called by the

natives Tolaga.

Wood and water, and an abundance of wild celery, which proved an

excellent anti-scorbutic, having been got on board, the Endeavour

weighed and stood to the north. The wood they had cut was like the

English maple; and a cabbage-tree was met with and cut down for the sake

of the cabbage, or the succulent soft stem, so-called by the voyagers

from its taste when boiled. The country abounded with plants, and the

woods with birds in an endless variety, and exquisitely beautiful.

After rounding each cape, numerous villages were seen, and much

cultivated ground. Some way on an immense canoe with sixteen paddles on

each side, and carrying sixty armed men, gave chase to the ship. To

prevent an attack, a round shot was fired near them, when they paddled

off; the headland near at hand was therefore called Cape Runaway. After

this, a large number of canoes came off to trade; but the natives were

disposed to cheat. At length some linen hanging over the bows to dry

was carried off by a man, who, though fired at, deliberately packed it

up and made off with it. As the natives continued to insult the

English, a shot was fired close to them, which went bounding over the

water far ahead, and made them paddle away at great speed.

Several villages were seen larger than any before observed, built on

eminences near the sea, and fortified on the land side by a bank and

ditch, with a high paling within it, carried all round; some of them had

also outworks. They were supposed to be the fortified villages called

by the natives Pahs or Hippahs. There seems to have been much doubt in

the minds of the officers of the Endeavour as to whether the land on

which they were now coasting was an island or part of a vast continent.

The captain seems to have held to the former opinion, his officers to

the latter.

The ship was now near a cluster of islands to which the names of the

Mayor and the Court of Aldermen were given. Farther on more villages

were in sight, with some hundreds of large canoes drawn up on the beach

under them. The whole country from Cape Turnagain, thus far, was said

to be under the rule of a single chief, called Teratu. A large inlet

was next entered, and here the ship anchored. Several canoes of a less

ornamental description came alongside, and tried to steal the buoy of

the anchor. Three times during the night they repeated the attempt,

hoping, it seemed, to catch the crew asleep. Again they came at

daylight, and sang a war-song, preparatory to an attack. Tupia,

however, expostulated with them, and explained so successfully that they

would certainly be the sufferers in case of a skirmish, that instead of

fighting, they began to trade. Here, again, a native made off with two

pieces of cloth, both of which he had got for one weapon, which he

refused to deliver up. A musket-ball was fired through his canoe; but

he would not return. It was curious that the people in the other canoes

paid no attention to him, though he was bleeding, but continued to trade

as if nothing had happened. Soon afterwards, indeed, the same trick was

played by others. Two muskets were fired, the bullets going through the

sides of the canoe between wind and water. This only made the savages

pull off more rapidly. As the commander intended to remain in this

place for some days, to observe the transit of Mercury, it was necessary

to make the natives understand the superiority of the English; and a

round shot was therefore fired over their heads.

All the natives, however, were not alike dishonest. One chief, in

particular, had behaved with great propriety during the day, neither

attempting to cheat nor showing any fear of the English. He came off

the next morning, and soon established friendly relations with them. He

said that the people were generally convinced of their power, and would,

he hoped, behave properly in future. His name was Toiava.

An officer, with the marines and a party of men, was sent on shore to

cut wood. No houses were seen; but there were a number of people, who

seemed to have slept under the bushes. The state of warfare in which

the people existed was shown by Toiava when on board one day. Two

canoes were perceived coming in from the opposite side of the bay, when,

saying that they were enemies, he hastened off to the shore with all his

canoes. He soon returned, however, they not being the people he

supposed. A large number of mackerel were obtained here from the

natives, the sailors salting enough to last for a month.

Fortunately, a fine day enabled the commander and Mr Green to obtain a

satisfactory observation of Mercury; and the name of Mercury Bay was,

therefore, given to the harbour on the shore of which it was taken.

While they were on shore another case, of cheating by a native occurred.

The thief and his companions having pulled off in their canoe, sang

their war-song, and shook their paddles in defiance. This so provoked

Mr Gore, the officer in charge, that he fired and killed the man, a

circumstance for which Captain Cook expressed his deep regret. Though

at first alarmed, the natives on shore, on inquiring into the matter,

seemed to think that the man had received his deserts, and the friendly

intercourse begun between them and the English was not further

interrupted.

A little before sunset, the natives retired to eat their supper,

consisting of birds, fish, and lobsters. Some were roasted, stuck on

sticks inclined towards the fire; others were baked in ovens on the

ground, in the way practised by the people of Otaheite. Among the

natives was a woman mourning for the death of a relative. She sat on

the ground by herself, and cut herself all over with pieces of shell

till she was covered with blood, singing in a mournful voice, at the

same time, a song the meaning of which Tupia could not understand.

The shore abounded with clams, cockles, and, in some places,

rock-oysters. Numerous wild-fowl also were seen, and several were shot.

The boats rowed up a river at the head of the bay for four or five

miles, and near it a deserted fort of considerable strength was visited.

Several beds of oysters were also discovered, dry at half-ebb, and a

boat being sent to fetch some, returned completely laden, so that the

ship's company had a regular feast of them. Fish, also in abundance,

were brought off by the natives. On the north side of the bay, a pah,

small, but very strong and beautifully situated, was visited. It stood

on the top of a rock detached from the mainland, surrounded at

high-water. The centre part was perforated by an arch sixty feet in

height, and of considerable width. The only way of reaching the top was

by a very narrow winding path. Here there was room only for four or

five huts. Farther on was a much larger fortified village, the

inhabitants of which, to the number of a hundred, came out and invited

the strangers to visit them, and seemed highly pleased when their

invitation was accepted.

This pah, or fort, was examined with much interest, and afterwards

minutely described by the English visitors. It seemed, indeed, a place

which, if resolutely defended, was capable of holding out against any

number of assailants famished only with such arms as were seen in the

hands of the natives. It was curious that men capable of constructing

so elaborate a fortification should have invented simply such weapons as

lances, small and large battle-axes, and clubs; for not a sling nor a

bow was seen among them, nor any other weapon but those mentioned. When

stones were used they were thrown by the hand.

The Endeavour, having taken an ample supply of celery on board, sailed

from Mercury Bay. The most successful generals of ancient and modern

times were able to take advantage of their greatest victories by having

paid careful attention to their commissariat; and Cook, for the same

reason, could prolong his researches for a greater length of time than

any previous navigator, and keep his crew in tolerable health, more

especially preserve them from that fearful scourge of seamen, the

scurvy. Of course he was greatly indebted to the experienced botanists

on board, who were able to discover any anti-scorbutic plants grown on

the shores they visited. Probably the lives of thousands of seamen

might have been saved had the commanders been acquainted with the wild

plants that the loving God has everywhere provided for the use of His

creatures, capable of preventing that dire complaint.

About fifty miles to the north of Mercury Bay, the natives came off and

threw stones at the ship, nor would they listen to the expostulations

and advice of Tupia, till a musket-ball was sent through the bottom of

one of their canoes, when they were convinced of the truth of his

account respecting the power of the strangers.

On the 19th a large inlet was entered, in which the ship brought up.

Immediately natives came off, who said that they had heard of the

strangers from Toiava. One young man introduced himself as his

grandson, and received several presents. They also addressed Tupia by

name, showing that they had heard of the English from their friends.

The commander and his usual companions proceeded in the boats nine miles

up the inlet, which they discovered terminated in a river. This they

entered with the flood, and found fresh water three miles from the

mouth. Here they saw a large village on a sand-bank entirely surrounded

by mud, probably considered a sufficient protection from their enemies.

They were particularly struck by the great size of the pine trees which

grew on the banks. One measured nineteen feet eight inches in girth at

the height of six feet from the ground. From the root to the first

branch it was eighty-nine feet, and as straight as an arrow, tapering

very little in proportion to its height. It probably contained, by the

captain's computation, three hundred and sixty-six cubic feet of solid

timber. Others still larger were seen. A small one was cut down, and

found to be similar to the pitch pine, too heavy for masts, but the

carpenter was of opinion that, by tapping, the wood would be lightened,

and that then the trees would make the finest masts in the world. These

trees were the celebrated Kauri pine, from which a valuable gum is

extracted. It also makes very fine planking. This tree, the flax

plant, and the gigantic fern are among the characteristic productions of

New Zealand.

The name of the Thames was given to the river explored. The natives in

the neighbourhood behaved in the most friendly manner; but while the

commander and Dr Solander were on shore, and Mr Banks with Tupia and

some of the natives were below, a lad took possession of a half-minute

glass from the binnacle. Mr Hicks, who was commanding officer, ordered

the lad to be triced up and a dozen lashes given to him. His countrymen

interfered, and called for their arms from the canoes alongside. In

vain Mr Banks, hearing the noise, and coming on deck, expostulated with

the lieutenant. Tupia at length pacified the natives by explaining what

was to happen, and allowed the punishment to proceed. As soon as it was

over, an old man, supposed to be the father of the boy, gave him a

beating and sent him into the canoe; but the confidence of the natives

was gone, and though they promised to come back, no more was seen of

them.

The natives on most occasions were ready to steal and cheat, whenever

they thought they could do so with impunity. This occurred nearly every

day as the Endeavour proceeded along the coast. In one day, at

different times, nearly five hundred natives were on board or alongside,

showing that the country was very populous. One of these was making off

with an article of which he had possessed himself without giving

anything in return, when the midshipman to whom it belonged hove a lead

with a hook secured to it at the end of a line, with such aim that the

hook caught the thief, but broke off. While at anchor in another part

of this bay, which is known as the Bay of Islands, the commander gave a

piece of cloth to an old chief, one of several hundred natives crowding

round the ship. Notwithstanding this, some of them tried to steal the

buoy, and not till one of them was hit by a musket-ball would they give

it up. After this, the commander, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and two

boats' crews, landed in a little cove. They had not been there long,

before they saw nearly three hundred people rushing towards them from

behind the heads of the cove, and over the top of the hill. Some of the

savages rushed to the boats to seize them, and others, led by a chief,

advanced towards the English. The commander, Mr Banks, and two of the

man fired with small shot. The natives, though at first they fell back,

soon again rallied and advanced. On this Dr Solander fired again, and

hit the chief, who, with the rest, ran off. The natives still continued

in a body, and, as seen from the ship, appeared very numerous. A few

round shot fired over their heads dispersed them. Happily not a single

life was lost, and only two men were slightly wounded. As it happened,

the old chief to whom the cloth had been given in the morning had, with

some of his family, concealed himself in a cave. While the party were

collecting celery he was discovered, and was soon put at his ease. He

said that one of the men who had been hit with small shot was his

brother, and inquired anxiously whether he would die. He was assured

that he would not; and a bullet and small shot being shown to him, he

was told that those who were hit with the first would die, but that the

wounds made by the last were seldom mortal. He and his companions now

came and sat down by the English, who gave them a few trifles.

Several days were passed in the Bay of Islands, and a friendly

intercourse was maintained during the remainder of the time with the

natives. On going out of it the ship grazed a rock to windward of her

with great violence, but received no injury. This part of the country

was evidently very densely inhabited; and the people seemed to live on

friendly terms with each other, though no head or leading chief was

heard of. Fishing seemed to be one of their principal occupations, and

nets of great length were seen--one of not less than from three to four

hundred fathoms. Their towns were all fortified. Farther on, while

becalmed, some people who came off told the voyagers that at the

distance of three days' rowing the land would take a sharp turn to the

south, and extend no more to the west. It was conjectured, therefore,

that this headland was one seen by Tasman, and called by him Cape Maria

Van Diemen; and an eager lookout was kept for the important headland.

At six in the morning on December 16 land was seen from the mast-head,

which proved to be North Cape. It lies in latitude 34 degrees 22

minutes South, and longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West. The isthmus

which joins this head to the mainland is low, which gives it the

appearance of an island. On the cape a hippah, or village, was seen,

with several inhabitants. Soon after this, when off Cape Maria Van

Diemen, the Endeavour met with a gale which, though it was in the middle

of the summer of that hemisphere, Captain Cook says, for its strength,

and the length of time it lasted, was such as he had scarcely ever been

in before. The ship was three weeks getting ten leagues to the

westward, and five weeks in getting fifty leagues. During the gale the

ship was a considerable distance from the land, or it is highly

probable, he says, they would not have returned to relate their

adventures.

It is not necessary to mention the various courses run for several days,

as no communication was held with the shore. At length a lofty peak was

seen towering above the clouds, and covered with snow, to which the name

of Mount Egmont was given. It was surrounded by a flat country of a

pleasant appearance, being clothed with verdure and wood. Near it a bay

was entered, in a safe and convenient cove of which the ship anchored.

Some canoes at once paddled off, and much against the wishes of his

people, an old chief from one of them came on board. He was received

with all possible friendship, and after some time was dismissed, with

many expressions of kindness, to his companions. This treatment had a

beneficial effect, though some of the natives showed an inclination to

try how far they might go with the strangers. On one occasion they

pursued the long-boat as it was going on shore with casks; but some

small shot quickly made them desist.

The bay where they were at anchor was found to be about fifteen miles

south of one visited by Tasman, though none of the people among whom

Tupia made inquiries had any tradition of his having been on the coast.

The commander, with Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and others, on their way

one day to visit a cove two miles off, saw the body of a woman floating,

having apparently been dead for some days. Immediately on landing they

found a family who seemed greatly alarmed at their approach, and ran

away. In a short time, however, they were induced to return, and

confidence being established, became very communicative. The body of

the woman was that of a relation whom they had buried at sea fastened to

a stone, from which they supposed it had broken. The family were

dressing some provisions, and as the gentlemen cast their eyes into one

of the baskets which stood near, two bones were perceived, which, upon

nearer examination, were found to be those of a human body. The

natives, on being questioned by Tupia, acknowledged, without the

slightest hesitation, that they were the bones of a man whom they had

eaten; that a canoe belonging to their enemies had come into the bay

five days before; that seven persons in her had been killed, and that

this man was one of them. On Tupia asking why they did not eat the body

of the woman, they replied that she was a relation, and that they only

eat the bodies of their enemies killed in battle. One of the natives

took hold of his own forearm, and intimated that the bone Mr Banks held

in his hand had belonged to that part of the human body; he also bit and

gnawed the bone which Mr Banks had taken, drawing it through his mouth,

and showing by signs that it had afforded a delicious repast. A woman

of this family of cannibals had her arms, legs, and thighs frightfully

cut, in token of her grief for the loss of her husband, who had lately

been killed and eaten by their enemies.

Mr Banks and Dr Solander were several times on shore, but their walks

were much circumscribed by climbing plants of luxuriant growth, which

completely filled up the spaces between the trees, so as to render the

woods impassable. Preparations had been made for erecting a durable

memorial of the Endeavour's visit, and their old friend promised that it

should never be removed. Presents of coins and spike-nails, with the

king's broad arrow on them, were given to the natives, and two posts, of

which the memorial was to be constructed, were taken to the highest part

of the island near which the ship lay. The Union-Jack was then hoisted,

and formal possession was taken of the country in the name of His

Majesty King George the Third; the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound being

given to the inlet. A bottle of wine was then drunk to Her Majesty's

health, and the empty bottle given to the old man, who seemed highly

delighted with it.

The Endeavour left the sound on February 6, and soon after, during a

calm, was very nearly driven on shore by the strong current setting

through the straits between the northern and middle island, now known as

Cook's Straits. Over the land was seen a mountain of stupendous height,

covered with snow. Passing through the straits, the Endeavour steered

north again, and continued on till, the weather clearing, Cape Turnagain

was distinctly seen. Captain Cook on this asked his officers whether

they were satisfied that Eaheinomauwe was an island. They replying in

the affirmative, the Endeavour hauled her wind and stood to the

eastward. Eaheinoniauwe was the name given by the natives to the

northern island, Poenammoo to the southern, or rather, as it is now

called, the middle island.

The Endeavour was now steered down the eastern coast of the last-named

portion of New Zealand. Some lofty mountains were seen, partially

covered with snow, and inferior in height to Mount Egmont. During a

calm, when close in shore, Mr Banks went out in a small boat for the

purpose of shooting. While he was away four double canoes were seen to

put off from the shore, and to pull towards him. Captain Cook trembled

for his friend's safety, for Mr Banks could not see the signals made to

hasten his return. At length he noticed the natives, and his boat's

head was turned towards the ship. The natives also approached. He,

however, got on board before them, thankful for his escape. Probably,

indeed, their attention had been so engrossed with the ship that they

had not seen him. When they came about a stone's throw off, they

stopped and gazed at the ship with vacant astonishment; but even Tupia's

eloquence could not induce them to come on board. After surveying the

ship, they made towards the shore, but it was dark before they could

have reached it. This was the only sight Captain Cook had of the

inhabitants of the middle island, or _Tovy Poenammoo_.

An island about twenty-four leagues in circumference, and five leagues

from the main, was discovered, to which the name of Banks's Island was

given. Some persons on board asserting that they saw land to the

south-east, the commander, though believing that they were mistaken,

steered in that direction; but no land being discovered, the ship wore,

and was steered east-south-east. Tovy Poenammoo was found to be very

much larger than Captain Cook expected to find it, from the description

of the natives in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Heavy gales and rough seas

were encountered, and on one occasion, at dawn, rocks were seen close

under the ship's bows, she having in the night passed close to another

dangerous reef, some leagues from the main. The land discovered

appeared green and well wooded, but destitute of inhabitants. Several

whales and seals were observed, whereas none had been seen off the north

island. At length, on March 5, the South Cape was rounded. At the time

Captain Cook was doubtful whether it was part of the large island or a

separate island, though he marked it in his chart as the former.

Nothing of importance occurred during the passage back to the entrance

of Cook's Straits, on the northern shore of which, in a bay called

Admiralty, the Endeavour again anchored, that she might fill up with

wood and water. This was accomplished by March 31, 1770, when a course

was shaped by which it was hoped the eastern coast of New Holland would

be reached. It was intended, after visiting that coast, to return home

by the East Indies and the Cape of Good Hope. Captain Cook himself had

wished to return by Cape Horn, with the view of settling the question of

a great southern continent; but the ship was deemed unfit to brave the

tempests to be expected in a high southern latitude in the most

inclement season of the year. The name of Cape Farewell was given to

the last point of land seen as the Endeavour quitted the coast of New

Zealand. The manners and customs of the inhabitants, as well as the

features of New Zealand, are now almost as well-known as those of any

country in Europe, and we are able to judge of the extraordinary

accuracy of all Captain Cook's descriptions whenever he had an

opportunity of observing them.

Cape Farewell was left on March 31, and the Endeavour sailed westward.

Nine days afterwards a tropical bird was seen, and on the 15th the

voyagers caught sight of an egg-bird and a gannet; and as these birds

never fly far from land, the lead was constantly heaved through the

night. No bottom, however, was found; and it was not till six o'clock

on the morning of April 19 that land was seen by Mr Hicks, the first

lieutenant. This land proved to be part of the vast country of New

Holland, since better known as Australia. The coast first seen was that

of New South Wales.

The Endeavour now coasted along about three leagues from the shore, and

as the weather was clear, a pleasant landscape presented itself before

the eyes of the explorers. The land was of moderate elevation,

diversified by hills and valleys, ridges and plains. Here and there

were open spaces clothed with verdure, but in general the country was

covered with timber. Smoke was in several places seen, showing that the

country was inhabited.

Several days were spent--the Endeavour coasting along the shore to the

northward; but on account of a northerly wind the voyagers were seldom

near enough to remark the features of the country. At last a bay was

discovered which seemed to be well sheltered from all winds, and Captain

Cook determined to anchor in it. Just before this several natives had

been seen on the shore, four of them carrying a canoe, but they did not

come off, and when the yawl, in which the commander attempted to land,

approached, they all ran away. So heavy a surf broke on the beach that

it was found impossible to go ashore.

The pinnace was now sent ahead with the master to sound, while, the wind

being out, the ship beat into the bay. A smoke being seen on shore, the

glasses were directed towards it, when ten men were observed sitting

round a fire, which they presently left, and then ascended a slight

eminence, whence they could observe the proceedings of the English

visitors. As the pinnace pulled along the shore most of the natives

kept abreast of her. Some of them used threatening gestures,

brandishing their weapons: there were two especially, whose faces seemed

to have been dusted with a white powder, and their bodies painted with

broad streaks, also white, which, passing obliquely over their breasts

and backs, looked not unlike the cross-belts worn by soldiers. The same

kind of streaks were also drawn round their legs and thighs, like broad

garters. They were armed with long spears, and each of these men held

in his hand a weapon curved like a scimitar, and which appeared to be

about two feet and a half long. The Endeavour anchored two miles within

the bay, in six-fathom water, abreast of a small village consisting of

six or eight huts. On the two points on either side of the entrance a

few huts, and men, women, and children, were seen, as were four small

canoes, with a man in each engaged in fishing, so intent on their

occupation that they took no notice of the ship. An old woman also,

followed by three children, came out of a thicket, laden with fire-wood,

each of the children having its burden. When she reached the huts three

more children came out to meet her. She looked often at the ship, but

manifested no surprise, and went on with her occupation and kindled a

fire. Presently the men landed, hauled up their canoes, and began to

dress the fish, apparently unconcerned at the stranger ship within half

a mile of them. None of the savages had on a particle of clothing. It

was a curious scene, like that of a drama in which the actors take no

notice of the spectators.

In this instance, however, the actors were not so indifferent as they at

first appeared; for when Captain Cook and several companions approached

the shore in one of the boats, although the greater number of the people

ran away, two men armed with lances came down on the rocks to dispute

the landing of the strangers. [Note 2.] It was not an inapt

representation on a small scale of the contest which, ere many years had

rolled by, was to begin on these shores between savagedom and

civilisation, when the latter would, with giant strides, sweep over and

subdue the land. The two brave savages kept flourishing their lances

and shouting in discordant tones, and Captain Cook, unwilling to injure

them, ordered his crew to lie on their oars while he tried to parley

with them. To show also his goodwill, he threw them nails, beads, and

other trifles, which they took up and seemed pleased to obtain. They

then waved their hands and seemed to invite their visitors on shore, but

as soon as the boat approached they hurried again to oppose a landing.

Captain Cook, as a last resource, fired a musket between them. On

hearing the report the youngest dropped a bundle of lances, but quickly

picked them up; while the eldest, as if in defiance, threw a stone at

the intruders. Upon this a musket with small shot was fired at his

legs, on which he scampered off to the huts. It was hoped that the

contest was now over, and accordingly the English stepped on the shore

of that vast territory which was to become the heritage of millions of

the Anglo-Saxon race. Still the savage was not subdued, and appeared

once more with a shield on his arm, and advancing, made one more

significant protest against the intrusion of the white man, by hurling a

spear into the very midst of the strangers. Happily, no one was hurt,

and a third musket loaded with small shot being fired at them, after

another spear had been thrown by one of the brave natives, they both

took to flight, and the English claimed to be, by right of conquest, the

lords of the soil. They might have pursued and overtaken the savages,

but Mr Banks suggested that the spears were possibly poisoned, and that

it would be imprudent to venture into the woods.

On entering one of the huts some little children were seen partially

concealed, but they were not disturbed, and when the English went away,

some beads, ribbons, and pieces of cloth were left in the huts as

presents, which it was hoped would gain the goodwill of the natives.

Fifty spears, from six to fifteen feet long, found lying about, were

carried off. It was at first supposed that they were poisoned, but on

further examination it was found that they were used for spearing fish,

and that the green substance found sticking to them was seaweed.

The next morning a stream was found at which the casks could be filled.

While this operation was going on, the natives came down and watched the

proceedings with wonder, but did not venture to approach the strangers,

though Mr Hicks advanced towards them with presents in his hands,

making every sign of friendship he could think of. That the bay was

full of fish, and capable of giving food to a large population, Captain

Cook had ample proof; for going with Mr Banks and Dr Solander to a

cove on the north side of the bay, in three or four hauls with the seine

they took above three hundredweight of fish.

An expedition into the country was planned the same day by the

commander, Mr Banks, Dr Solander, and seven others, and from it a very

fair idea of the general face of the country was obtained. On visiting

the huts they found that the natives had not taken away the presents

that had been left for them; and others, therefore, of greater value,

were added. Presents were left also at all the huts which were passed,

in the hope of thus gaining the goodwill of the natives. The trees were

tall, straight, and without underwood, and at such a distance from each

other that the land might be cultivated without cutting down a tree.

The ground was covered with an abundance of grass, growing in tufts

close together, about as large as could well be grasped in the hand.

Although numerous huts were seen, the natives kept themselves carefully

concealed, though probably watching the strangers at a distance; a

glimpse only was caught of one man, who instantly ran away. A transient

view was got of an animal as big as a rabbit, and of the tracks of

another of the size of a wolf, clawed like a dog; traces of a third,

which fed on grass, and judged to be not less than a deer in size, were

also seen. The trees overhead abounded with birds of various kinds,

among which were many of exquisite beauty, particularly loriquets and

cockatoos, which flew in scores together. The trees, however, were not

of many species; among others was one which yielded a gum not unlike the

_sanguis draconis_.

Many other excursions were made on shore, especially by Mr Banks and

Dr Solander, in search of plants, of which they found vast quantities;

and from this circumstance Captain Cook gave the place the name of

Botany Bay, a name the whole country commonly bore for more than half a

century afterwards.

Every effort to establish a friendly intercourse with the natives

failed. They had undoubtedly watched, though unperceived, the effect of

the white men's weapons, and from awe and terror kept at a distance;

still, when they had an opportunity, they showed their hostility to the

strangers, and Mr Monkhouse narrowly escaped a spear thrown at him

while he was wandering in the woods.

During the ship's stay in Botany Bay, Captain Cook had the English

colours hoisted every day on a flag-staff on shore, and caused the

ship's name, and the date of her visit, to be engraved on a tree near

the watering-place.

At daybreak, on Tuesday, May 6, 1770, the Endeavour sailed from Botany

Bay, and at noon the same day, in latitude 33 degrees 50 minutes South,

she was abreast of a fine-looking harbour, to which Captain Cook gave

the name of Port Jackson. Northerly winds prevented the ship from

making much progress till, in latitude 32 degrees 40 minutes, another

harbour was seen, and called Port Stephens. The ship continued her

course to the north; smoke was frequently seen, and occasionally the

natives were observed. The land increased considerably in height as she

advanced, and in many places exhibited a pleasing variety of ridges,

hills, valleys, and plains, all clothed with wood. A wide, open bay was

passed in latitude 27 degrees 6 minutes, and called Moreton Bay.

It had now become necessary to lay the ship ashore, and Captain Cook's

object was to find a place where this might be accomplished with safety.

Had he entered Port Jackson, he would have found one of the finest

harbours in the world for his purpose. He several times anchored while

proceeding along the coast, and landed to explore the country--the

natives, as before, running off and hiding themselves. Rockingham Bay

was passed and named, in latitude 17 degrees 59 minutes. Hitherto the

Endeavour had met with no misfortune; but as she was now to make

acquaintance with it, the point seen farthest to the north was called

Cape Tribulation. It lies in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes South, and

longitude 145 degrees 26 minutes East.

One beautiful moonlight night, as the ship was speeding on her course

with a fair wind, among the shoals of that coral sea, and while most of

the officers and crew were tranquilly asleep, she suddenly struck upon a

reef, and instantly roused every one on board to the horrors of

shipwreck on an inhospitable coast, where they might linger for years

without succour. However, the captain and his officers and crew were

equal to the emergency, and by throwing everything weighty overboard

that could be spared, the ship floated, but was making water rapidly.

Had the weather been at all stormy, no human power could have saved

their vessel. As it was, the fine weather continued long enough to

enable them to draw a sail over the leak. This served the purpose of

keeping her in sailing trim, until she was safely moored at the mouth of

a creek, which was named Endeavour River. This was on June 17, and they

remained there repairing the damage to the ship, as well as

circumstances permitted, until August 4.

Although the Endeavour was now out of danger, her captain had still

abundant cause for anxiety on another account: in spite of all his care,

the fearful malady of scurvy had gained, and was still gaining ground

among the ship's company. Poor Tupia, who all his life had been

accustomed to fresh fruit and vegetables, was among the chief sufferers,

and symptoms were showing themselves which proved that the malignant

disease had already made rapid progress. Mr Green, the astronomer, was

also, among many others, stricken and disabled. As soon as possible,

therefore, a tent was put up on shore for the reception of the sick, and

recourse was had to nets, for providing fresh fish for the invalids.

The ground in the immediate neighbourhood of the river was either

swampy, sandy, or stony. Mr Banks, who went on shore with his gun, saw

great quantities of pigeons and crows: of the former, which were very

beautiful, he shot several. He also saw some deserted human

habitations, but no natives.

Four guns having been got up from the hold, were mounted on the

quarter-deck of the ship, and the heavy stores and powder were landed,

that her damages might be examined. It was, indeed, both wonderful and

providential that she had escaped destruction; for not only had the

sharp rock torn off the planking and worked its way into the timbers,

but one point had cut a hole right through the bottom, and, breaking

off, had happily remained fixed. Had it fallen out, no human power

could have prevented the ship from foundering. Besides the leak, which

was on the starboard side, the ship had sustained very extensive injury

on the larboard. The sheathing from the bow on that side was torn off,

and a great part of the false keel was gone. The carpenters at once

commenced their work; and the forge was set up, that the smiths might

make bolts and nails.

While this was going on, some of the people were sent on shore to shoot

pigeons for the sick, and on their return they reported that they had

found a stream of fresh water, and had seen several native huts, and an

animal as large as a greyhound, of slender form, mouse-coloured, and

very swift. The next day Captain Cook himself saw the same animal; it

had a long tail, and leaped liked a hare or deer, and the prints of its

feet were like those of a goat. For some time afterwards nothing more

was seen of the animal, which Mr Banks, the naturalist, considered must

be of some hitherto unknown species; so, indeed, it was, for it had no

congeners in any quarter of the globe previously visited; though now the

kangaroo is familiar enough to all readers of natural history, and it

forms part of the arms of the colony of New South Wales.

Mr Banks likewise captured an Australian opossum, a female, with two

young ones. This class of animal was formerly supposed to be peculiar

to America, from whence its name is derived. Being nocturnal in their

habits, nothing is to be seen of them in the daytime, unless you can

catch a glimpse of one at noontide, sleeping soundly in the hollow of a

tree. When night comes, they leap from bough to bough with the greatest

animation, especially if it be moonlight. Some species, with thin

membranes between the fore and hind paws, can take a flying leap of,

sometimes, thirty yards from tree to tree; and hence they are called

flying squirrels, though perfectly distinct in their nature, and in some

of their habits, from that animal.

The carpenters continued to work hard on the ship whenever the tide

permitted them. The position in which she was now placed, with her bow

on the bank, naturally threw all the water aft, and from this

circumstance the world was very nearly losing the results of Mr Banks's

labours. For greater security he had placed his collection of plants in

the bread-room, into which the water ran, and covered them completely.

By great care most of them were dried, but many were entirely spoilt.

In consequence of the carpenters being able to work only at low tide,

the repairs of the ship proceeded very slowly. In the meantime,

however, the people benefited from being on shore, and every effort was

made to obtain fresh provisions, calculated to improve their health.

The commander himself went to superintend the hauling of the seine; but

this was attended with little success, for during one evening only

between twenty and thirty fish were caught. A root with leaves like

spinach, many cabbage-trees, and a wild plantain, were found, with a

fruit of a deep purple colour, of the size of a pippin, which improved

on keeping; Mr Banks also discovered a plant, called, in the West

Indies, Indian kale, which served for greens. These greens, with a

large supply of fish afterwards caught, afforded great relief to the

voyagers, who had so long been compelled to live on salt meat. Their

fresh provisions were further varied by some large cockles, one of which

was of such size that it furnished an ample meal for two men. What was

of still greater value was the discovery of some fine turtle by the

master, three of which he caught when out surveying; though afterwards,

when sent out expressly to find more, he seems to have purposely

thwarted the wishes of his commander, who, indeed, had too much cause to

complain of the narrow-mindedness and ignorance of several of his

officers. Many other turtles were, however, afterwards caught, of a

species called the green turtle.

Some time elapsed before one of the animals which had been so much the

subject of speculation was shot by Mr Gore. This was a young one, but

others were seen equal in size to sheep; the larger sort are, indeed,

much larger than sheep. The fore legs of this specimen were only eight

inches long, and the hind legs two-and-twenty; its mode of progress

being by a succession of hops and leaps, helped by its long tail, with

which also it balances itself in its progress. It is easy to imagine

the interest with which this curious animal, now seen for the first time

by civilised men, was examined by Mr Banks and his brother naturalists.

The next day their kangaroo (for so the animal was called by the

natives) was dressed for dinner, and proved most excellent. The

explorers might now have been said to fare sumptuously every day; for

they had an abundance of green turtle, fish, and vegetables of different

sorts, with an occasional kangaroo. It was indeed fortunate for the

crew of the Endeavour that the accident happened to her in this

latitude, instead of farther south, where, although the soil amply

rewards the labours of men, yet its spontaneous productions are very

inferior to those of the north. Kangaroos certainly would have been

found in abundance, and perhaps fish, but scarcely any vegetables fit

for the food of man.

Favourably, however, as the navigators were situated for diet, their

position in other respects was unsatisfactory. This was ascertained by

the captain, who, with Mr Banks, one day started on a long walk

northward, partly to obtain a view of the country, but chiefly to take

note of appearances seaward. After traversing the country about eight

miles, they ascended a high hill, and were soon convinced that the

danger of their situation was at least equal to their apprehensions; for

in whatever direction they turned their eyes, they saw rocks and shoals

without number, and no passage out to sea but through the winding

channels between them, which could not be navigated without the last

degree of difficulty and peril. The reports of the master were equally

unsatisfactory with regard to the shoals and dangers off the mouth of

the harbour, and it seems surprising that the ship should have escaped

them on her passage up the coasts. Still, as she had got in, there was

no doubt that she might get out, could the right passage be found. They

had other causes for hope and thankfulness: the natives were not likely

to prove troublesome, the climate was healthy, and food abundant.

Besides kangaroos, wild dogs were seen, which were supposed to be foxes

or wolves, as they partly resembled both these animals. With the

natives for some time no intercourse was opened. At last some appeared

on the opposite side of the river, very black, totally naked, and with

lances in their hands. The commander judiciously ordered his people to

take no notice of them, as the best means of drawing them near. This

plan succeeded so well that two of them came off in a canoe to within a

musket-shot, and talked very loudly. They were answered in the same

tone, and by degrees they drew nearer, when some cloth, nails, beads,

paper, and other trifles were thrown to them. Of these things, however,

they seemed to take no notice, but were highly pleased when a fish was

offered them. Some of them afterwards landed where Tupia and the rest

of the crew were sitting, and he prevailed on them to lay down their

arms, and to come forward without them. He then made signs that they

should sit down by him. With this they complied, and seemed to be under

no apprehension or constraint, although on more people going on shore

they expressed by their gestures some fear lest the newcomers should get

between them and their arms. More presents were made to them, to show

the goodwill of the strangers, and their desire to continue on friendly

terms. To prove this the Englishmen made signs that they were going to

dinner, and invited the blacks to eat with them; the latter, however,

declined the honour, and went away in their canoes. These men were of

the common stature, but their limbs were remarkably small; their hair

was black, but not woolly, some of them wearing it short cropped, others

lank and long, and others had it curled. Their colour was dark

chocolate, but the tint was owing somewhat to the dirt which covered

their skins. They had lively eyes, and their teeth were even and white.

The tones of their voices were soft and musical, and there was a

flexibility in their organs of speech which enabled them to repeat, with

great facility, many English words.

The next day three of the same party of natives paid the strangers a

visit with a fourth, whom they introduced as Yaparico. This personage

was distinguished by having the bone of a bird, six inches long, thrust

through the cartilage of his nose. He seemed to prize this strange

ornament as much as a young dandy does his newly raised silken

moustache. On examination, all his companions were found to have holes

in their ears, as he also had, while on the upper part of their arms

they wore bracelets of plaited hair; thus evincing a taste for ornament,

although they had not a rag of any sort of clothing. The previous day

the only gift they seemed to prize was a fish which was offered them.

To-day they brought one in return. They were, however, excessively

jealous and suspicious, and in consequence of one of the gentlemen

examining their canoe, they at once jumped into her and paddled away.

The following day three natives ventured down to Tupia's tent, and were

so well pleased with the way he received them that they went away and

brought two others, whom they introduced to him formally by name; a

ceremony they never omitted. Some fish were given to them, but after

eating a small portion, they threw the rest to Mr Banks's dog. They

could not be persuaded to go far from their canoe, which was about ten

feet long, fitted with an outrigger, and though very inferior, like

those of the Society Islands. They used paddles, and in shallow water

poled it along.

One day, on the commander's return from an excursion on shore, he found

several natives on board. Of all the articles exhibited to them,

nothing seemed to have attracted their attention so much as the turtles,

of which there were no less than twelve on deck. Two days afterwards

they came again, bringing with them a greater number of lances than

before. These they placed in a tree, with a man and a boy to watch

them. It was evident that their object was to get one of the turtles.

They asked for one by signs, and being refused, appealed to everybody

who appeared to them to have any authority. Then seizing one, they

attempted to drag it overboard. On its being taken from them, they

jumped into their canoe in a rage, and went on shore. Here Mr Banks

and others followed them. Before they could be stopped they seized

their arms, and, snatching a brand from under a pitch-kettle, they

whirled it round with great dexterity and rapidity, and set fire to the

grass, which was six feet or more high, and dry as stubble. The fire

burnt with fearful rapidity. The woodwork of the smith's forge was

destroyed; it caught a sow and some young pigs, one of which was

scorched to death, and Mr Banks had great difficulty in saving his

tent, which had been set up for Tupia on shore. Happily most of the

stores, with the powder, had been taken back to the ship, or the

consequences might have been more serious.

In another place the seamen were washing, and a quantity of linen and

the nets were spread out to dry. Here the natives, disregarding all

threats and entreaties, again set fire to the grass. By great exertions

the fire was extinguished before it had done much damage, but where it

had first been kindled it burnt with great fury, and spread into the

woods to a long distance. A gun loaded with small shot was now fired at

the natives, which put them to flight, one of them being wounded; and to

give them a lesson, a bullet was fired to pass near them, and this of

course hastened their retreat. It was thought that now they would give

no more trouble; but in a short time they came back, and Mr Banks and

others went out to meet them.

An old man among the natives then advanced, having a lance in his hand

without a point. He came forward slowly, stopping several times, and

the English made signs to him that they wished to be friends. On this

he turned round and addressed his companions, and they, having set up

their arms against a tree, also came forward in a friendly manner. The

lances which had been taken from them were then returned; this evidently

afforded them great satisfaction, and the reconciliation was considered

complete.

Several strangers who were among the party were now introduced by name;

and on receiving some presents they went away highly contented.

The next day no natives appeared, but the hills all round, for many

miles, were on fire, the effects of which by night were very striking.

Had the voyagers been compelled by circumstances to remain on that

coast, the result of these fires would have been serious, as the

conflagration would have driven the kangaroos and the feathered tribes

to a distance, and thus deprived the crew of the Endeavour of some of

their principal means of support. But the ship was now ready for sea,

though the master had been unable to find any channel to the northward

by which an escape could be made from among the coral reefs which hemmed

her in.

It was necessary, however, to make the attempt without delay, as

provisions and stores were running short, and the proper time for

navigating the Indian seas was passing by. They were doomed to have

their patience yet further tried, for when all was ready heavy gales

prevented the ship from putting to sea.

On July 29 the weather moderated, the wind came off the land, and

everything appeared favourable for sailing, when it was found that there

was not sufficient water on the bar for the ship to pass over it. For

several days more the ship was detained by the unfavourable state of the

weather: the detention would have been of still greater consequence had

not the boats sent out to catch fish and turtle been tolerably

successful. At length, on August 4, Captain Cook had the satisfaction

of sailing out of Endeavour Harbour. The ship was surrounded by shoals,

and he was yet in doubt whether he should beat back to the southward, or

seek a passage to the north or east. He had now a most anxious time,

for it was clear that there was no way to sea except through the

labyrinth of shoals amid which the ship lay. The navigation of a ship

among coral rocks is at all times dangerous, for the lead gives no

notice of their vicinity, their sides rising up like walls from almost

unfathomable depths.

Night now approaching, the Endeavour anchored, when soon afterwards it

came on to blow very hard, and at eleven she began to drive. More cable

was veered away, and this brought her up; but in the morning, it coming

on to blow harder, she drove again. All the appliances of seamanship

were put into operation, but still she drove, when topgallant masts were

got down, and yards and topmasts struck; and now, at length, she rode

securely.

In this position she continued till the 10th, when, Captain Cook having

resolved to search for a passage close in shore to the northward, she

got under way, and stood in that direction with the boats exploring

ahead. Nothing but the greatest caution, perseverance, and first-rate

seamanship could have taken the Endeavour free of the dangers which

surrounded her. Hour after hour the sagacious commander was at the

mast-head, or away in a boat searching for a passage, while the rest of

the boats were employed in a similar service. At length a passage was

discovered, and with the boats piloting ahead, the Endeavour stood

through it.

A long rolling swell convinced the voyagers that they had no rocks or

shoals to fear, but at the same time proved to them that they must not

place the same confidence in their ship as before she had struck; for

the seas she now encountered so widened the leaks that they admitted no

less than nine inches of water an hour, which, considering the state of

the pumps and the navigation before them, was a matter of serious

consideration.

The great object Captain Cook had now in view was to ascertain whether

the coast of New Holland, along which he was sailing, was or was not

united to that of New Guinea. He was afraid that, if he stood on long

to the north, he might overshoot the passage, should one exist. At six

in the evening, therefore, he brought the ship to with her head to the

north-east, no land being in sight. The next morning sail was made, and

land seen; and as the day advanced a reef appeared over which the sea

broke heavily, extending from north to south as far as the eye could

reach, with an occasional break between the ship and the land. The wind

was then east-south-east; but scarcely had the sails been trimmed to

haul off it than the wind shifted to east-by-north, which made it very

doubtful whether the ship could clear the reef. The lead was kept going

all night while the ship stood to the northward, but no bottom was

found, yet at four o'clock the roaring of the surf was distinctly heard,

and at break of day it was seen foaming to a vast height at not more

than a mile off. The seas, too, which rolled in on the reef rapidly

carried the ship towards it. The wind fell to a dead calm, and the

depth made it impossible to anchor. The only prospect of saving the

ship was by rowing; but the pinnace was under repair and useless: the

long-boat and yawl were, however, sent ahead to tow, and sweeps were got

out.

Still these efforts could only delay the destruction which seemed

inevitable. The ship continued to drive on towards the fatal reef; she

was within a hundred yards of it, and the same billow which washed her

side broke on the reef to a tremendous height the very next time it

rose. The carpenters had been working at the pinnace, and she was now

lowered, but even with her assistance the Endeavour drove nearer and

still nearer to the reef. At the very moment that her doom seemed fixed

a light air sprang up, and, with the help of the boats, gave her once

more head-way. Scarcely, however, had ten minutes passed before the

wind again dropped, and the ship was driven back towards the roaring

breakers. Again the gentle breeze returned, and lasted another ten

minutes. During this time an opening had been discovered, and the ship

was towed towards it, but so strong a current set through it that she

was driven fully a quarter of a mile away from the reef. Aided by the

boats, the ebb tide carried her nearly two miles away by noon. When the

flood made, however, she was once more carried back towards the reef;

but in the meantime the first lieutenant had discovered a passage, and a

light breeze springing up, it was resolved to attempt it. The boats

continued towing ahead; the raging, roaring sea leaped up on either

side; the breeze filled the sails; the tide swept rapidly onward; and in

a short time the Endeavour was within the reef, safe from present

danger, and anchored in nineteen-fathom water.

Captain Cook now resolved to keep the land close on board, in spite of

all dangers, for fear of missing the channel. Numerous islands and

headlands were passed and named, and rocks and reefs were escaped, and

at length perseverance and sagacity were rewarded by the discovery of

York Cape, the northern promontory of the country, and the southern side

of Torres Straits, through which the Endeavour triumphantly passed.

As Captain Cook was now about to leave the eastern coast of New Holland,

which he had followed up from latitude 38 degrees, and which he was

confident no European had ever before seen, he landed on an island,

which he named Possession Island, and once more took formal possession

of the whole eastern coast of the mainland, in right of His Majesty King

George the Third. He gave to the country, with all its bays, rivers,

and islands, the name of New South Wales. Three volleys of small arms

were then fired, and these were answered by the same number from the

ship. Ten natives were seen on the island when this ceremony was

performed, and seemed astounded, as they very well might be.

They were seen to be armed with spears; one of them had also a bow and a

bundle of arrows, which weapons had not before been seen. Two of them

had large ornaments of mother-of-pearl hanging round their necks. It

was expected that when the boats approached they would have made a show

of opposing a landing, but instead of that, they walked leisurely away.

They and their descendants have never been disturbed in their possession

of the island, and at the present day it is exactly in the state it was

when Cook visited it.

Some time was occupied in the intricate navigation of the straits, and

the Endeavour then steered north, along the south-western coast of New

Guinea, but the water being shallow, at such a distance from the shore

that it could scarcely be seen from the ship. Still, as the commander

wished to ascertain the character of the country and the appearance of

the inhabitants, he steered in for the land till about three or four

miles from it, and in three-fathom water, when the ship came to an

anchor on September 3.

The pinnace being hoisted out, Captain Cook, with Mr Banks and his

servants, Dr Solander and the boat's crew, in all twelve persons, well

armed, embarked in her and pulled directly for the shore. But the water

was so shallow that they could not reach it by about two hundred yards;

they therefore waded the rest of the way, and left two seamen to take

care of the boat. As yet no inhabitants had been seen, but when the

party landed they discovered the print of feet on the sand below

high-water mark, showing that people had lately been there. A thick

wood came down to within a hundred yards of the water. To avoid the

risk of being cut off by an ambush, the explorers proceeded cautiously,

skirting the wood till they came to a grove of cocoanut trees of small

growth which stood on the bank of a little stream. The trees were well

hung with fruit, and near them was a small hut, round which lay a number

of the freshly picked shells. Tempting as was the fruit, it was not

considered safe to climb the trees to obtain it; they were obliged,

therefore, to leave the grove without tasting a nut. Farther on they

met with a bread-fruit tree and some plantains, and had got about a

quarter of a mile from the boat when three blacks rushed out of the wood

with a hideous shout, and ran towards them. The foremost threw

something from his hand which burnt like gunpowder, and the other two

darted their lances at the strangers. As it was necessary to keep these

savages at a distance, they were fired at with small shot, but as this

did not make them retreat, and they threw another dart, some bullets

were discharged at them. The effect was to make them run; but it was

hoped that none of them were wounded. As Captain Cook says, he had no

desire to invade the country, either to gratify appetite or curiosity;

he judged it right and merciful to retreat at once, so as not to have to

destroy more of the ignorant savages. There was no time to lose, as the

men in the boat made signs that more natives were collecting. They had

succeeded in getting safely on board, when they saw nearly a hundred

savages, who shouted and threw fire-darts, several at a time, towards

them. On board ship it was supposed, from the effect produced, that the

natives had fire-arms, and even from the boat, had they not been so

near, the English would have fancied, from the flash and smoke, that the

blacks were firing musketry; the sound only was wanting. Some muskets

being fired over their heads, they walked leisurely away.

In appearance these natives were very similar to those of New Holland,

though their skin was not quite so dark. They were all stark naked.

The land was low, and covered with a luxuriance of wood and herbage that

can scarcely be conceived. Some of the officers wished to send on shore

to cut down the cocoanut trees for the sake of the fruit, but the

commander refused to comply with their proposal, feeling that it would

be cruel and criminal to risk the lives of the natives, who would

certainly try to defend their property, merely for the sake of a

transient gratification. The boat was therefore hoisted in, and sail

made to the westward.

The more interesting portion of Captain Cook's first voyage round the

world was now accomplished. He had successfully made the important

observation for which he was sent out; he had become intimately

acquainted with the inhabitants of Otaheite and several of the adjacent

islands, though, from the cunning of the people, he had failed to

discover that it was among the darkest of "the dark places of the

earth." He had shown that if there was a great southern continent it

must be in a very high latitude; he had proved that New Zealand

consisted of two great islands, and had cause to suspect the existence

of a third smaller one. He had sailed along the coast of New Holland,

and had made the acquaintance of its inhabitants and many of its animal

and vegetable productions. Though he had seen the coast of Tasmania,

and admired its beauty, he had not discovered that it was separated from

New Holland; but he had settled the point before in dispute--whether

that little-known land was or was not joined to New Guinea--by sailing

between them; and he had shown that the eastern coast of the

island-continent of Australia was fit to become the habitation of

civilised men. This great fact was, after all, the most important

result of the voyage.

The condition of the Endeavour had, by this time, become very critical.

So battered were her lower timbers and planks, and so out of order were

her pumps, that a heavy sea might at any moment have sent her to the

bottom. It was absolutely necessary to find a harbour where she might

be hove down to undergo a complete refit. Under these circumstances the

commander of the expedition determined to go to Batavia, the capital of

the Dutch settlements in the island of Java, and at that time the centre

of commerce in those seas. He had, indeed, no option, for there was not

another port which he could hope to reach, where the ship would receive

the necessary repairs. He was not, indeed, ignorant of the

unhealthiness of the climate; but he hoped not to be detained there

long, and that his hardy crew would be able for a short time to

withstand its ill effects.

The first island of any size which the Endeavour sighted after leaving

New Guinea was Timor, along the shore of which she coasted.

Notwithstanding the wishes of some of his officers, Captain Cook

declined to put in there, as he was anxious to reach Batavia without

delay. Between that island and Java, however, he fell in with a small

island, which at first he thought was a new discovery; but on steering

for it, and getting close in with the north side, houses, plantations,

and numerous flocks of sheep were seen. The temptation of obtaining

fresh meat and vegetables was not to be resisted, as there were many

sick on board; and accordingly Mr Gore was sent on shore to open a

communication with the natives. Two persons were seen riding on the

hills as if for their amusement, and often stopping to look at the ship.

This made the voyagers suspect that there must be a settlement of

Europeans on the island. Such was in fact the case. The Dutch East

India Company had a short time before taken possession of it, and sent a

resident to superintend their affairs, though the native rajah or chief

was still retained as the nominal ruler of the island. This island

proved to be Savu, at that time so little known that it was not to be

found on any of the charts on board. It is about thirty miles long, and

was then very thickly populated.

In the evening the ship entered a bay before a large native town, over

which the Dutch colours were flying, and three guns were fired. The

native chief treated the strangers very courteously, and was evidently

ready to supply them with all they desired. They were informed that the

island abounded in buffaloes, sheep, horses, asses, goats, hogs, dogs,

cats, fowls, and pigeons, with most of the fruits of the tropics. The

resident, Mr Lange, however, though polite in his manners, very soon

showed that he was determined to make a gain of the visitors, and asked

the most exorbitant prices for all the provisions they required, besides

insisting that they should be paid for in gold. Fortunately, by a

well-timed present to an old man, the rajah's prime minister, his

services were engaged, and ultimately, through his means, all the

provisions which were required were procured at fair prices. The island

was divided into five provinces, with a rajah over each, who could

altogether muster upwards of seven thousand fighting men. All the

rajahs were said to live on friendly terms with each other, and the

inhabitants were described by Mr Lange as being particularly well

conducted and moral. Their religion was a kind of paganism, but of a

most liberal description, according to the account given by Mr Lange,

each man having the liberty to set up a god in his own house, and to

worship it after his own fashion. Although, in many instances, the

Dutch have been sadly unmindful of the spiritual as well as temporal

interests of the inhabitants of their colonial possessions, they had

sent to this island a Dutch officer, and a native woman who had been

brought up a Christian, charged with the education of the people, and

their instruction in the principles of Christianity. The Dutch had also

printed versions of the New Testament, a catechism, and several tracts

in the language of this and the neighbouring islands. The number of

Christians in the township of Seba alone was estimated at six hundred.

If the character given by Mr Lange of these islanders was correct, a

true Christian missionary would have found a prolific field open to him

among them.

The Endeavour left the interesting island of Savu on September 21, 1770,

and made Java Head, at the west end of Java, on October 1. Poor Tupia

was very ill, and on the morning of the next day a boat was sent on

shore to procure some fresh fruit for him, and some grass for the

buffaloes, which, with sheep, pigs, and fowls, had recently been got on

board. On passing through the Straits of Sunda, the Endeavour was

boarded by the Dutch authorities, and various official inquiries were

made as to whence she had come, and the object of her voyage. These

being answered, she proceeded to Batavia.

Captain Cook and his companions were received into port by the Dutch

governor with all the courtesy and kindness which could be expected.

Permission was given them to take up their abode in private residences,

although strangers were, as a rule, compelled to live at an hotel, under

the direct supervision of the authorities. Leave was also obtained to

heave down the ship in order to repair her damages, which were found on

inspection to be of a very serious nature. Indeed, in one place the

planking was so worn by the grinding on the rocks, that it did not

exceed the thickness of the sole of a man's shoe. Her frame in many

places was much shattered, and her pumps had become rotten and utterly

useless.

Batavia had long had the reputation of being very unhealthy. The crew,

however, thought themselves thoroughly seasoned to all climates, and

their rosy countenances contrasted favourably with the pale faces of

those who had been even a few weeks at the place. All, indeed, with the

exception of Tupia, were in good health when they entered the port.

Even he revived at the strange sights which met his gaze as he entered,

for the first time, a civilised town. The houses, carriages, streets,

people, and a number of other novel objects had the effect on him of

fascination. Tayeto expressed his wonder and delight with still less

restraint, and danced along the street in a kind of ecstasy, examining

every object with a restless and eager curiosity. Tupia, remarking the

various dresses of the people of different countries, desired likewise

to put on his native costume. South Sea cloth was therefore sent for

from the ship, in which he immediately equipped himself.

In the course of a few days, however, the effects of the climate began

to be felt. Poor Tupia, after the excitement caused by the novelties he

witnessed had subsided, experienced a reaction, and every day grew worse

and worse. Young Tayeto also was seized with an inflammation of the

lungs, and both Dr Solander and Mr Banks and his two servants were

taken seriously ill; indeed, almost all the people belonging to the

ship, on board or ashore, were sick, affected by the low swampy

situation of the place, and the numberless dirty canals which

intersected the town in all directions.

Tents were then set up on shore, on Cooper's Island, for the ship's

company, and one was also pitched, by Mr Banks's desire, for Tupia, who

was anxious to escape from the close air of the town. Mr Banks

accompanied him, and remained with him for two days, till compelled by

his own illness (a regular tertian ague) to return to his lodgings. Mr

Monkhouse, the surgeon of the ship, was the first victim, and Dr

Solander could with difficulty crawl out of lied to attend his funeral,

which Mr Banks, from illness, was unable to do. On the 9th the poor

young boy Tayeto died, and Tupia, who loved him as a son, was so much

affected that he rapidly sank, and in two days followed him to the

grave. The lives of Mr Banks and Dr Solander were saved by their

removal to a healthy spot, some miles from the city. Altogether, seven

persons who had come in the ship were buried at Batavia; but many others

imbibed the seeds of disease, which, in a short time, proved fatal.

Every possible assistance which Captain Cook required was given by the

Dutch governor, and on December 26th, 1770, having taken leave of him

and the principal people in the place, the voyagers set sail from

Batavia with a light breeze from south-west. At that time the number of

sick on board amounted to forty, and the rest of the ship's company were

in a very feeble condition. Every man had been ill except one, the

sail-maker, who was upwards of seventy years of age; he, however, was

among those who died on the passage to the Cape of Good Hope.

After leaving Java, the Endeavour touched at Prince's Island, where she

took in water and fresh provisions. Shortly afterwards, dysenteries and

slow fevers appeared, and so violent were the symptoms that the ship was

a complete hospital, those who were able to move about being

insufficient to attend to the sick in their hammocks. Mr Banks was so

ill that his life was despaired of. Mr Green, Mr Sporing, Mr

Parkinson, the natural history painter, with Mr Monkhouse, and many

others, three-and-twenty persons in all, in addition to the seven buried

at Batavia, died before the ship reached the Cape of Good Hope. On

March 15 the Endeavour anchored in Table Bay, near the Cape of Good

Hope, where Captain Cook's first care was to provide a place for the

sick on shore. Here the greater number recovered, though some were

still ill when again taken on board. The country appeared to the

voyagers to be of a most sterile and forlorn character, and from the

accounts they received of the great distances from each other at which

the settlers were situated, they conjectured that such must be the

general nature of the country in the interior. Possibly the Dutch

settlers may not have been anxious to praise it to the English, as it

must have been obvious that it would prove a very important possession,

on account of our extensive commerce with the East Indies.

Cape Town, at that time, consisted of about a thousand houses, neatly

built of brick, and white-washed on the outside, with thatched roofs.

The streets were broad and commodious, and through the principal street

ran a canal, with rows of oaks planted on either side, but, on account

of the slope of the ground, having numerous locks. The healthiness of

the climate of Cape Town contrasted favourably with that of Batavia, and

most of the sick rapidly recovered. The Dutch, at this time, appear to

have been living on friendly terms with all the neighbouring tribes of

natives, nor did Captain Cook seem to be aware that any of the

Hottentots were reduced to a state of slavery. He speaks only of their

being servants to the Dutch farmers, and taking care of their cattle.

Their only enemies were the bushmen, who never engaged in open warfare,

but stole the cattle of their neighbours at night, being armed with

lances and poisoned arrows.

The Endeavour left Table Bay on April 14, and after calling at Robin

Island, a Dutch convict station, she proceeded with her voyage on the

25th. On that day she lost her master, whose health had been destroyed

by intemperate habits, and just before she reached England her first

lieutenant, Mr Hicks, died of consumption, from which he had been

suffering the greater part of the voyage; thus making up a long

catalogue of deaths since the ship left England. Mr Hicks was

succeeded by Mr Charles Clerke, who accompanied Captain Cook in his

subsequent voyages, and was highly esteemed by his commander, as well as

by all who sailed under him.

On May 1 the Endeavour called off Saint Helena, then known only as the

summit of a submarine mountain, the water round it being of unfathomable

depth; although the island was of especial importance to Indiamen, as it

was the only British possession at which they could call on their

voyage. Here the Endeavour found the Portland man-of-war, commanded by

Captain Elliot, and twelve sail of Indiamen. In company with this

fleet, she stood out of the roads on May 4. But finding that his ship

sailed more heavily than the rest of the fleet, Captain Cook deposited

his logs, or ship's papers, and some of the journals of his officers,

with Captain Elliot; and on the 23rd not one of the ships was in sight.

By this time the rigging and sails of the Endeavour had become so bad

that every day something was giving way. But, notwithstanding this, she

continued her course in safety, and on June 10 land, which proved to be

the Lizard Point, was seen by Nicholas Young, the same boy who first

sighted New Zealand. On the 12th the ship came to an anchor in the

Downs, and Captain Cook went on shore at Deal.

The importance of the voyage just described can be better appreciated by

the present generation than it could have been by those who were alive

at the time of its conclusion. Captain Cook's own modest summary of it

is interesting. He says:--

"I sailed from Deptford July 30, 1768; from Plymouth August 26; touched

at Madeira, Rio de Janeiro, and Straits of Le Maire; and entered the

South Pacific Ocean, by Cape Horn, in January, the following year.

"I endeavoured to make a direct course to Otaheite, and, in part,

succeeded; but I made no discovery till I got within the tropic, when I

fell in with Lagoon Island, Two Groups, Bird Island, Chain Island, and

on April 13 arrived at Otaheite, where I remained three months, during

which time the observations on the transit of Venus were made.

"I then left it; discovered and visited the Society Isles, and Oheteroa;

thence proceeded to the south till I arrived in the latitude of 40

degrees 22 minutes, longitude 147 degrees 29 minutes West; and on

October 6 fell in with the east side of New Zealand. I continued

exploring the coast of this country till March 1, 1770, when I quitted

it and proceeded to New Holland, and having surveyed the eastern coast

of that vast country, which part had not before been visited, I passed

between its northern extremity and New Guinea; landed on the latter,

touched at the island of Savu, thence to Batavia, the Cape of Good Hope,

Saint Helena, and arrived in England on July 12, 1771."

On their arrival in London, Cook and his companions were received by the

scientific, as well as by the great and fashionable world, with the

attention and respect they so well-deserved; for no previous expedition

undertaken by England had been more generally successful. Cook was

promoted to the rank of Commander, his commission being dated August 29,

1771. He was also introduced to the King at Saint James's Palace, and

had the honour of presenting the journal of his voyage, illustrated by

maps and charts; while their Majesties the King and Queen, and numerous

people of high rank and attainments, took delight in listening to the

accounts given by the explorers of their adventures, and in examining

the specimens of manufactures and of natural history which they had

brought home.

It was not, however, present _eclat_, nor the apparent magnitude of the

discoveries made, but their consequences, which rendered this voyage of

real importance. The ultimate result was the founding of two nations of

the Anglo-Saxon race; and whatever cause there may be to question, if

not to condemn, the manner in which possession has been obtained of

distant countries, and in which, also, their colonisation has been

effected, in almost every instance, and by almost all nations having the

power which civilisation gives, it must still be borne in mind that God

has overruled, and is overruling, these transactions for His own glory

and for the spiritual benefit of the world. He makes not only "the

wrath," but the ambition, and pride, and cupidity of man "to praise

Him;" and then the remainder "He restrains." And all circumstances are

made, in His infinite wisdom and power, to advance the spread of "the

glorious Gospel of the blessed God," and to usher in the kingdom of Him

whose right it is to reign, even of Christ Jesus, the Prince of peace,

the Lord of lords, and the King of kings.

With regard to the discoveries made in the voyage just recorded, it is

almost superfluous to say that the countries then visited for the first

time by our countrymen have, after the lapse of a century, become

familiar as household words to the whole world. Australia, Tasmania,

and New Zealand have become component parts of the British empire, and

have already been made the home of hundreds of thousands of the crowded

population of the British Isles, as well as of emigrants from other

European countries; and these lands will, probably, before another

century has passed away, become centres, not only of civilisation, but

of evangelical truth and saving faith. And herein the Christian reader

will and must rejoice.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Note 1. The names of several places visited by Captain Cook have, in

course of time, been varied or altered. In this work, however, it has

been thought proper generally to adhere to the original nomenclature.

Note 2. A tablet has been placed to mark the spot where Captain Cook

and his party landed, and may be seen in the engraving.

Note 3. If this was so understood at the time, we must lament that our

countrymen should have consented to take part in what must be considered

as a profane farce.