CHAPTER XXVII. HOMEWARD BOUND.

Cape Isabella, 357; letters from home, 358; bad weather, 359; Whale

Sound, 359; off Lancaster Sound, 360; reappearance of fulmar petrels,

361; reach Godhavn, 362; receive letters from England, 363; leave

Godhavn, 363; Egedesminde, 364; sight the "Pandora," 366; arrive at

Valentia, 367; at Queenstown, 367; welcome home, 368.

INDEX _Page_ 371

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

FULL-PAGE PLATES.

PAGE

"ALERT" AND "DISCOVERY" _Frontispiece_

POLAR BEARS _To face_ 46

WINTER QUARTERS H.M.S. "ALERT" 151

HIGHEST NORTHERN CAMP 308

REDUCING A FLOE-BERG 349

H.M.S. "ALERT" FORCED ON SHORE 351

SMALLER WOODCUTS.

SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE 23

ESKIMO WOMEN 28

WALRUSES 75

CAPE HAWKS 84

PLAN OF ICE DOCK 88

"THE MOANING OF THE TIED" 89

MUSK OXEN 105

KNOTS 111

DOG-SLEDGE IN DIFFICULTIES 131

START OF THE AUTUMN SLEDGES 143

DIAGRAM OF MAGNETIC OBSERVATORIES 153

FLAG-STAFF POINT (CAPE SHERIDAN) 155

ROYAL ARCTIC THEATRE--SCENE FROM "ALADDIN

AND THE WONDERFUL SCAMP" 170

NELLIE 189

LEMMINGS 212

CAIRN HILL 220

SLEDGE UNDER SAIL 231

DOGS AND SLEDGE 247

GETTING READY TO "BAG" 269

CHART OF OUTWARD AND RETURN TRACKS 274

INTERIOR OF TENT 280

A PACKED SLEDGE 281

SNOW-BUNTING 319

BRENT-GOOSE AND EIDER-DUCKS 340

ALLMAN BAY 355

FULMAR PETRELS ("MOLLIES") 361

FAREWELL! 369

* * * * *

MAP SHOWING THE DISCOVERIES OF THE ARCTIC

EXPEDITION, 1875-6 _To face_ 1

[Illustration: ARCTIC EXPEDITION 1875-76.]

THE GREAT FROZEN SEA.

CHAPTER I.

FITTING OUT.

"Vitailled was the shippe, it is no drede,

Habundantly for hire a ful long space:

And other necessaries that shuld nede

She had ynow, heried be Godde's grace:

For wind and weather, Almighty God purchace,

And bring hire home, I can no better say

But in the see she driveth forth hire way."

CHAUCER (_Man of Lawe's Tale_).

The above quaint lines, written five hundred years ago, well describe

the scenes that were being enacted during the months of April and May,

1875, in Portsmouth Dockyard.

Busy as this great naval depôt of England almost always is, it is

seldom, in peace time, that so much interest is shown in the equipment

of two small steam-vessels as was the case with regard to those that

were then lying "all a taunto" in the steam basin of that extensive

yard.

The names of those comparatively small ships were the "Alert" and the

"Discovery," their destination the unknown North.

Although of insignificant size, in comparison with the huge ironclad

monsters by which they were surrounded, yet a close observer would

readily detect signs of great strength in these two business-like

looking vessels. And very necessary was it that they should possess

strength and powers of resistance of no ordinary kind, for they were

destined to grapple and fight with the heavy and unyielding ice floes of

the Polar Ocean.

The two ships had been very carefully selected and fitted for the

important work in which they were about to engage. The "Alert" was a

17-gun sloop, and had already served two or three commissions on foreign

stations before she was converted for Arctic service. The "Discovery"

was built in Dundee for the whaling and sealing trade, in which she had

been engaged for a short time off the coast of Newfoundland, before she

was purchased for the Arctic expedition.

The "Alert" was thoroughly strengthened, and, under the supervision of

the Admiral Superintendent of the Dockyard (Sir Leopold McClintock),

adapted in every way for the hazardous service on which she was about to

be employed.

After a complete overhaul of her hull, all defective timbers and beams

were removed, and replaced by sound ones; extra beam power was

introduced; an external sheathing of seven inches of teak, tapering from

amidships to four inches forward and three inches aft, extending from

the keel to the waterways, was put on; whilst a longitudinal beam,

placed between the shelf-piece and the lower-deck waterway internally,

bound and strapped the whole ship together. Extra iron knees were

introduced in order more effectually to resist the enormous pressure of

the ice; and the stem was fortified outside with half-inch iron plates

extending to about ten or twelve feet aft, whilst inside the bow was

strengthened by numerous diagonal beams and dead-wood.

Between the inside planking and the lining were placed sheets of felt

for the promotion of warmth. New waterways, of a most substantial form,

were added; and the ship was divided into watertight compartments.

Two large davits projected over each quarter of the vessel, by the aid

of which the rudder, some three tons weight, was easily shipped and

unshipped when in danger of being damaged by the ice. On these occasions

it would be suspended horizontally over the stern from the davits.

Around the galley-funnel was an ingenious contrivance for making water,

consisting of a large reservoir to receive either snow or ice; this,

being dissolved by the heat from the fire underneath, is drawn off

through a tap at the bottom, thus providing our water supply. Like all

vessels employed in the whaling trade, both ships were fitted with

Pinkey and Collins' patent reefing and furling topsails; and each

possessed a steam-winch on the upper deck, capable of being utilized for

many purposes.

At the maintop-gallant-mast-head of each vessel was a large barrel-like

object. This was the crow's nest, a very necessary item on board all

ships destined to navigate the icy seas. Both ships were barque-rigged,

and were supplied with the ordinary contrivances used on board

short-handed merchant vessels to facilitate the work.

They formed, indeed, a curious contrast to the heavily rigged but trim

men-of-war, which, with their tapering spars and faultlessly squared

yards, lay in the harbour near them.

Each vessel was supplied with nine boats of various shapes and sizes,

specially designed and constructed for the service peculiar to Arctic

waters. Two of these were completely equipped for whaling, so as to be

able to follow and capture walruses and narwhals. They were both fitted

with harpoon-guns fixed on swivels in the bows. The ice-boats were three

in number for each ship, and were built as light as it was possible to

make them. Paddles were supplied, by which they could be propelled, as

well as oars. They were all carvel-built boats, and the bows of each

were armed with a broad sheet of copper as a protection from the ice.

The figure-heads of each ship, like their fittings, were exactly

similar. They were what are commonly called "fiddle-heads," having the

Union Jack painted on them, and underneath the word _Ubique_; and to no

flag can that word be more truly and more appropriately applied.

_Everywhere_ is it to be found, even beyond the limits of the abode of

man!

The clothing and provisions supplied to the ships were in a great

measure regulated according to the establishments by which preceding

expeditions had been fitted out, and were almost identical in texture

and quality.

Great care was taken in the selection of both officers and men, and none

were appointed until they had undergone a searching medical examination

as to their fitness for Arctic service, several being rejected who had

the appearance of being fine and eligible young fellows. The slightest

defect, such as bad teeth or old wounds, was a sufficient pretext for

refusing the services of otherwise apparently strong and healthy men.

Numerous were the volunteers that came forward, rendering the task of

selecting a few from the number of eager willing men that presented

themselves one of no little difficulty.

Their social and moral qualifications were as strictly inquired into as

was their physical condition; and men of a happy and genial disposition

were selected in preference to others who appeared morose and taciturn.

"Can you sing or dance? or what can you do for the amusement of others?"

were questions invariably addressed to candidates for Arctic service by

the board of officers appointed to select from the numerous applicants

who presented themselves.

The ray of pleasure that lighted up the faces of those individuals who

were informed that they were to be of that small chosen band, indicated

most clearly the popularity of the enterprize amongst the men of the

Royal Navy; whilst the disappointed ones, and they were many, showed

only too plainly the mortification they experienced at being rejected.

As an instance of the eagerness evinced by the men to be employed in the

expedition, a gallant captain commanding a ship at Portsmouth called at

the office where the men were being entered, and requested advice. He

said, "An order has come on board my ship, directing me to send

volunteers for Arctic service to this office. What am I to do? The whole

ship's company, nearly eight hundred men, have given in their names!"

This is merely mentioned in order to show the amount of interest taken

by the whole navy in the cause for which the ships were being equipped.

The ships' companies being completed, officers and men were

unremittingly engaged in the various duties incidental to fitting out.

Provisions and stores, sufficient to last for three years, had to be

received on board and stowed away. There was no waste space on board

either vessel. Every little nook and corner was destined to be the

receptacle of some important article. The ships gradually settled down

in the water as the weights on board accumulated, until they appeared to

be alarmingly deep, whilst much yet remained unstowed. The Admiralty

had, however, provided for this emergency. The "Valorous," an old

paddle-wheel sloop of good carrying capabilities, was ordered to convey

all surplus stores, that could not be stowed on board the two exploring

vessels, as far as the island of Disco, on the west coast of Greenland.

This was a very wise and necessary precaution, as it would be obviously

unsafe to cross the Atlantic in boisterous weather, laden as the two

ships undoubtedly would have been if they had received no assistance

from a third vessel in the conveyance of their stores.

Through the kindness and generosity of our friends, and of those who

more especially interested themselves in the progress of Arctic

discovery, we received many useful and valuable gifts. Her Majesty and

the members of the Royal Family testified, in a substantial manner, the

deep interest they took in the enterprize. The name of her Imperial

Majesty the Empress Eugénie must always be associated with the

expedition as one of its warmest friends. Her kind and considerate

present, consisting of a fine woollen cap for each individual,

contributed materially to our comfort whilst engaged in the onerous

duties of sledging.

To mention the names of all our generous benefactors would require a

chapter to itself. Books, magic lanterns, a piano, pictures, and money

came pouring in from all sides; but smaller and less valuable, though

not the less appreciated, gifts were also received. A small case, with

the superscription, "A Christmas box for my friends on board the

'Alert,'" and containing four bottles of excellent punch, and a little

parcel of well-thumbed books and periodicals, showing undoubted signs of

having been well perused, but which came with the "best wishes of a

warrant officer, himself an old Arctic explorer," were accepted with as

much pleasure and gratitude as were the more costly presents.

Games of all descriptions, to while away the long evenings of a dark and

monotonous winter, were purchased; whilst a complete set of instruments

for a drum-and-fife band was also added to the long list of our

necessaries.

In devoting a certain sum of money to the purchase of musical

instruments and games, wherewithal to amuse ourselves, we were only

following an example set us many years ago; for when Sir Humphrey

Gilbert sailed in 1583, for the purpose of discovering new lands, and

planting Christian colonies upon those large and ample countries

extending northward from Florida, we read that, "for the solace of our

people, and allurement of the savages, we were provided of musicke in

good varietie; not omitting the least toyes, as morris dancers, hobby

horses, and many like conceits, to delight the savage people, whom we

intended to winne by all faire meanes possible."

We also hear, when that brave old navigator John Davis undertook his

first voyage in 1585, with his two frail little barks, the "Sunneshine"

and the "Mooneshine," that in the first-named vessel were twenty-three

persons, of whom four were musicians--a large band in proportion to the

complement of officers and men.

In spite of the bustle and confusion that are inseparable from the

preparation of such an expedition, in spite of fresh paint and tarry

ropes, several thousands of visitors came on board before sailing, to

the no small hindrance of the work; but it is feared that many others,

owing to the stringent regulations that it was necessary to issue in

order to have the vessels ready by the appointed time, were compelled to

return to their homes without having the satisfaction of saying that

they had been on board the Polar ships. Amongst those who honoured the

vessels with a visit were his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, his

Royal Highness the Duke of Edinburgh, and her Imperial Majesty the

Empress Eugénie.

The entertainments given in our honour were very numerous; many were

almost regarded as _farewell_ banquets.

We were looked upon as public property; our hospitable countrymen, in

the generosity of their hearts, never thinking that we should like to

spend our last few days in England in peace and quietness amongst our

own friends, wished to feed us on the fat of the land, and send us to

sea suffering from that worst of all complaints, dyspepsia, accompanied

perhaps by _mal de mer_.

At length all preparations were completed. The day originally assigned

for the sailing of the expedition, the 29th of May, dawned grey and

misty, with dashes of rain falling and lying in little pools on our

freshly painted deck. During the forenoon we were honoured by a visit

from the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, who came to bid us

farewell and success on our mission. This was the last official visit

paid to the vessels. At its termination officers and men were left

pretty much to themselves, so that their last few hours in England might

be spent with their own relatives. Four o'clock in the afternoon was the

hour named for the departure of the ships, and punctual to the very

minute they cast off from the dockyard jetty. The last embrace had been

taken, the last fervent farewell had been wished, and, a good omen for

the coming voyage, as the vessels steamed out of Portsmouth Harbour, all

clouds cleared away, and the sun shone out bright and joyous. During the

day crowds had been flocking from all parts of England in order to add

their voices to those of other well-wishers to the enterprize. Seldom

before in that famous seaport town, although the centre of many stirring

events, had such a scene been witnessed. Thousands of spectators were

congregated along the sea-face extending from the dockyard to Southsea

Castle, and on the opposite shore of Gosport, to witness our departure;

and cheer after cheer pealed forth from the assembled multitude as we

slowly threaded our way amongst the numerous yachts and pleasure boats

that had collected to bid us Godspeed. A small thin line of red, hardly

to be distinguished amidst the more sombre hue of the holiday seekers'

dresses, denoted the troops of the garrison drawn up to do honour to

their comrades of the sister service, whilst their bands, breaking forth

with the soul-stirring strains of "Auld lang syne," found an echo in the

hearts of all connected with the expedition.

It was, indeed, a proud moment for us as we witnessed this unmistakeable

demonstration, and felt that we, a small but chosen band, had been

selected to carry out a national enterprize of such importance.

If anything was required to assure us of the popularity of our

undertaking, the spectacle that afternoon on Southsea Common was surely

a convincing proof.

There was but one responsive feeling in the hearts of every member of

the expedition, namely, a determination to deserve this confidence, and

to achieve, with God's help, such a measure of success as would prove

satisfactory to the country and creditable to the navy.

It will be long before that scene is effaced from our memories. Our last

view of Portsmouth was across a bright blue sea to a shore thronged with

an enthusiastic and cheering crowd waving a last farewell; whilst the

last glimpse our friends had of us was across the same blue sparkling

sea, the snow-white sails of our ships being lit up by the rays of the

setting sun.

Our feelings appeared to be reflected in the changes of the weather on

that, to us, memorable day. The rain and mist in the morning were

emblematical of the sorrow of parting; while when the sun burst forth

bright and joyous in the afternoon, we all felt assured that the work on

which we were about to be employed would be achieved, and that the

enterprize commenced under such bright auspices would terminate as well

and happily.

Nothing occurred to mar the departure; one incident only happened that

might have terminated disastrously and thrown a gloom over the little

squadron. Immediately after the pilot had been discharged, one of the

men of the "Alert," in the excitement and ardour of responding to the

cheers with which we were on all sides greeted, lost his balance in the

rigging and fell overboard. He was, however, quickly picked up and

brought on board none the worse for his immersion, although the

consternation excited by this mishap to a boatload of men and women, who

happened to witness the accident, nearly resulted in fatal consequences.

The half-drowned and thoroughly drenched man being restored to his

shipmates, the squadron having been joined at Spithead by the

"Valorous," rounded the Nab-light vessel, and before a fine fresh

north-easterly breeze spread their sails and steered down channel.

For many hours, however, they were escorted by a little yacht containing

the relatives of some few of the officers of the expedition, which

following in their wake reluctantly parted only when all further

communication was impracticable.

This, and a visit we received on the following morning from the brave

old admiral, the Commander-in-chief at Plymouth, when passing the port,

was the last sight of friends we were destined to enjoy for many a long

month.

We all felt that we had bidden them a long farewell, and from

thenceforth, as far as they were concerned, we could only live in the

happy memories of the past, buoyed up by hopes and aspirations as to the

future.

Experiencing fine weather, the anchors were dropped on the third day in

the snug little harbour of Berehaven, in Bantry Bay. The object of this

visit was to obtain our last supply of fresh meat, and our last budget

of letters from home. A farewell ramble on shore amongst green fields

and picturesque little farmhouses, where we were regaled with delicious

fresh milk, was also enjoyed, and a visit paid to some Druidical remains

near the long straggling village of Castletown.

And here, amongst the long green grass and by the side of clear rippling

rivulets, we gathered the last flowers of spring that would gladden our

eyes until after our return to our native shore. Carefully were these

floral treasures hoarded until an opportunity offered of transmitting

them to dear friends at home. It is related of one officer, who was so

fortunate as to gather several sprigs of "forget-me-not," and whose home

ties were, perhaps, not so attractive as those of others, that he

offered to barter small tufts of this precious little plant for a bottle

of beer, or a pot of cocoa and milk, the two latter articles being

excessively scarce on board the Arctic ships, and proportionately

valuable.

On the 2nd of June, the day following their arrival, the little squadron

once more put to sea. From that date the receipt of all letters ceased.

No more telegrams; no loving missives; all intelligence from home must

come to an end. We could live only for the future, and pray for a happy

and speedy return. Before nightfall the high and rugged coast of

Ireland had sunk below the eastern horizon, leaving nothing visible on

the apparently boundless ocean but our three ships as they were lazily

rocked by the long rolling swell of the broad Atlantic.

"The vessel gently made her liquid way;

The cloven billows flashed from off her prow,

In furrows formed by that majestic plough;

The waters with their world were all before."

CHAPTER II.

THE VOYAGE TO DISCO.

"Now from the sight of land, our galleys move;

With only seas around, and skies above.

When o'er our heads descends a cloud of rain,

And night with sable clouds involves the main,

The ruffling winds the foaming billows raise,

The scattered fleet is forced to several ways.

. . . . . . . . . . And from our shrouds

We view a rising land like distant clouds,

The mountain tops confirm the pleasing sight."

VIRGIL.

The next morning we found that on leaving England we had also left

behind bright sunshine and blue skies, and in their place gloomy grey

clouds were spread over us, while rain fell sullenly through the murky

air. This, with head winds, was our normal condition for many days.

Steam was occasionally raised during any lengthened periods of calm; but

the report from the engineer that steam was ready was, as a rule,

followed by a report from deck that a breeze was springing up, but

invariably from an adverse quarter.

On the 5th of June, in order to expedite our movements, the "Valorous"

received permission to ignore the presence of a senior officer and make

the best of her way to Disco; the "Alert" and "Discovery" continuing

their course together.

We were not many days together at sea before we discovered the good

qualities of our ship's company. There was a willingness about them that

could not fail to be appreciated, whilst the thorough good feeling that

seemed to exist was highly satisfactory. As a proof of the desire of

each one to assist his neighbour, it may not be out of place to mention

that the petty officers of the "Alert," a day or two after leaving

harbour, requested permission to take turns with the able seamen in

steering the ship, a duty from which, by their position, they are

usually exempt. It need hardly be said their wish was immediately

gratified.

During the passage our medical staff was busily engaged in ascertaining

the physical capacities of every individual member of the expedition.

These experiments were by some jokingly resented as an unauthorized

system of mental and bodily torture. Every one's age was carefully

noted; height and weight accurately ascertained; dimensions round the

chest measured; and by means of an instrument called a spirometer the

capacity of the chest was also obtained; a clinical thermometer was

inserted into the mouth and kept there for an apparently interminable

time for the purpose of ascertaining the temperature of the blood. The

treatment we were subjected to in the cause of science was thus

described by one whose acquaintance with the Royal Navy was only of a

few days' standing: "I was unceremoniously laid hold of and measured,

forced into a chair and weighed, was compelled to answer the most

impertinent questions regarding my age and connections; a horrid

instrument was kept in my mouth for an hour or more, and I was forced to

blow into a machine until not a breath of wind was left in my body!"

The results of all these experiments were duly registered, the intention

being to compare them with a similar examination on the return of the

expedition, in order to ascertain the effects of an Arctic life upon the

physical development of our bodies.

The appetites of the officers, rendered doubly keen by the fresh sea

air, were so inordinate as to cause serious anxiety in the mind of our

worthy caterer, who was fearful that the allowance of provisions would

never last the specified time, at the rate they were then being

consumed.

From the fifth day after leaving port lime juice was regularly issued to

every officer and man in the expedition. Being considered an

indispensable antiscorbutic, it was essential that precautions should be

adopted to ensure the certainty of each man drinking it daily. It was

therefore the practice to serve it out on the quarter-deck every

forenoon in the presence of an officer. This was never omitted during

the whole period that our expedition was absent from England. With one

or two exceptions the lime juice was drunk with pleasure by the men, and

the exceptions were gradually educated, by taking it in small

quantities, until their dislike was cured.

In consequence of the limited stowage capacity on board, the officers

were unable to provide themselves with a large stock of beer. A

considerable quantity of wine and spirits, however, was laid in; but as

an anticipated absence of three years had to be provided for, we were

restricted to an allowance of two glasses of sherry per diem, a glass of

port or madeira once a week, and a bottle of brandy or whiskey about

every fourteen or fifteen days. On birthdays or fête days we were also

indulged in a glass of port wine after dinner.

Ten hogsheads of Allsopp's ale, brewed especially for the Arctic

Expedition, were provided by Government and formed part of the ship's

stores. It was grand stuff--"strong enough," as one of the men observed,

"to make our hair curl!"

We were not destined to enjoy fine weather long, and our passage across

the Atlantic was by no means a pleasant or a comfortable one. Gale

followed after gale. If they had only blown from the right quarter we

should have been happy, but we had no such luck, they were sure to come

ahead!

What a lively ship was the "Alert"! making it utterly impossible to keep

anything in its place. It was decidedly annoying, one day, when I

entered my cabin to find my nice smart crimson table-cloth drenched with

ink; but it was no use repining, and I could only exclaim, with Lord

Dorset--

"Our paper, pens, and ink, and we,

Are tumbled up and down at sea."

Liveliness was not her only peculiarity, she was likewise excessively

wet, and although battened down carefully it was impossible to keep the

water from going below. To those who are uninitiated in nautical terms

it must be explained that "battening down" means the careful closing and

covering with a tarpaulin of every skylight and hatchway, in order to

prevent the water from finding its way below. In spite, however, of

these precautions, it is excessively difficult to keep the lower deck of

a small ship dry during heavy weather.

On the 13th it was blowing furiously with a terrific sea, and we were

compelled to "lay-to" under very reduced canvas. During the night a

large steamer, supposed to be bound for Quebec, passed close to us, so

close indeed that we were compelled to burn blue lights in order to

denote our position, so as to avoid collision.

On the same night a heavy sea struck us, and washed away our starboard

whale boat. Our consort also suffered the same loss. Nearly all our

fowls, which were in hen-coops on the upper deck, were drowned; only two

escaping! Fresh meat being scarce the manner of their death did not

prevent their appearance on our table for some days. This gale had the

effect of dispersing our little squadron, nor did we again assemble

together until our arrival at Disco.

No sooner had we recovered from the effects of one gale, than we were

assailed by another. Our only consolation was, the very poor one of

trying to believe that these storms would eventually be the means of

assisting us in our passage through Melville Bay, by breaking up the ice

and blowing it out of Davis Straits!

The discomforts entailed by the perpetual bad weather did not in any way

check the ardour of some of the officers in their praiseworthy

endeavours to add to the scientific collections of the expedition. It is

related, but I will not vouch for the authenticity of the story, that on

one occasion, when the ship was labouring heavily, a huge sea washed on

board, finding its way down through the skylight into the ward-room,

where it splashed about from side to side with every roll of the ship.

An officer, a most zealous and enthusiastic collector in all branches

of natural history, being in bed at the time, thought that he detected

by the dim light of a lantern some interesting, and perhaps unknown,

specimens of zoology in the water. His landing net was immediately

called into requisition, and, from his bed, he succeeded in fishing up

some of these supposed wonderful organisms. The microscope was instantly

produced for the purpose of ascertaining the nature of his find, when,

to his great disappointment, he discovered they were simply grains of

buckwheat--part of the stock that had been laid in for our unfortunate

fowls!

Our progress was tardy. On more than one occasion we were actually

farther off Cape Farewell, the point of land we were striving to make,

than on the day previous!

As we approached Davis Straits, speculations were rife as to when and

where we should meet our first ice. The greatest eagerness was shown by

all on board to become acquainted with the enemy whose fastnesses we

were preparing to attack and from which we hoped to return victorious.

On the 25th of June, being still at some distance to the southward of

Cape Farewell, a vessel was sighted steering in the opposite direction

to ourselves. We passed at too great a distance to avail ourselves of

such a favourable opportunity of sending letters to England, though

there were many on board who showed an intense anxiety to communicate.

We suspected, and our reasoning proved correct, that this would be the

last vessel we should see for many a long day, and she was consequently

watched with a great deal of interest. She was, in all probability, a

homeward bound Peterhead vessel laden with _cryolite_. The cryolite is

a rare mineral and the sole one which has become an article of trade in

Greenland. It is found only in one single spot called Ivigtut in 61° 10´

N., imbedded like a massive body in the granitic rock, and not in veins

or strata. In 1857 a licence was granted to a private company for

working the cryolite, and in the first nine years 14,000 tons were

exported in 80 ship-loads. During the next nine years the total export

amounted to 70,000 tons. Cryolite is converted by a chemical process

into soda and an alumina unequalled as regards purity and fitness for

the art of dyeing.[1]

As we neared the waters of Davis Straits, whales were observed in great

numbers. They were principally what are called by the whalers

"bottle-noses." This species of cetacean is the _Hyperoodon rostratus_,

and is from twenty to twenty-six feet long, with teeth in the lower jaw.

The "bottle-noses" are seldom sought and captured by the whalers owing

to the small amount of oil that they yield, not more than a few

hundred-weight of blubber being derived from each one of this species. A

dead whale of the "right" or "Greenland" sort was also passed. What a

prize for a whaler this would have been; worth about £1,000! but of no

value whatever to us, so it was allowed to float by untouched. How the

mouths of our ice quarter-masters, all hailing from those essentially

whaling ports Dundee and Peterhead, watered as they beheld what by them

would have undoubtedly been considered a god-send! The evident look of

wonder, not unmixed with contempt, that showed itself upon their

countenances was truly ludicrous when they found that we were about to

pass so valuable a prize unheeded. This fish--for all "right" whales

(_Balæna mysticetus_) are denominated "fish" by those engaged in their

capture--had probably been struck by some whaler and, having succeeded

in evading its persecutors, had since died of its wounds; or else it had

been killed by the inveterate enemy of the whale the _Orca gladiator_,

or "grampus," sometimes called "sword-fish," which pursues and harasses

these harmless unoffending leviathans of the deep whenever opportunities

offer. The rorqual, or "finner" (_Physalus antiquorum_), was also seen;

it is easily distinguished from the right whale by the dorsal fin

peculiar to this cetacean, and from which it derives its name. The

rorquals are seldom captured, great difficulty being experienced in

killing these huge monsters, which are frequently known to measure as

much as ninety feet in length. Scoresby mentions one measuring one

hundred and twenty feet. Great as is their size, however, the amount of

blubber to be obtained from them is very insignificant. They feed upon

cod-fish (as many as eight or nine hundred have been found in the

stomach of one of these whales) and are constantly seen off the south

and west coast of Greenland.

A falling temperature on the 27th of June, and a peculiar light blink

along the horizon, gave us due notice of the immediate proximity of ice.

As the weather was thick and foggy extra precautions were adopted in

order to guard against coming into serious collision with any icebergs,

for, however beautiful these floating islands of ice may be during

bright clear weather, they are dangerous and formidable foes when near

and unseen.

True to the warning received, an iceberg was shortly afterwards

sighted, and by 4 P.M. the ship was steaming through loose detached

fragments of heavy floe ice.

It is impossible to describe the excitement that prevailed on board on

this first introduction of many among us to that icy world in which we

afterwards lived for fifteen months. To me it gave rise to reminiscences

of old times, but to the uninitiated it was an exciting scene, and was

gazed upon with intense interest.

The officer of the watch, desirous of having the honour of making the

ship first touch ice, and being also under the impression that a reward

of a bottle of champagne would be given to him who should first succeed

in doing so, steered straight for a heavy piece nearly submerged. His

efforts were crowned with success, but they were also accompanied by a

gentle admonition that for the future he should be a little more careful

of her Majesty's property, and avoid all such fragments as were likely

to knock a hole in the bows of the ship.

On the following morning we sighted the high, bold, and snow-capped

hills in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation. This headland was so

called by that sturdy navigator, brave old John Davis, during his first

voyage of discovery in the year 1585. In his quaint manner he describes

"the land being very high and full of mightie mountaines all covered

with snowe, no viewe of wood, grasse, or earth to be seene, and the

shore for two leages into the sea so full of yce as that no shipping

cold by any meanes come neere the same. The lothsome viewe of the shore,

and irksome noyse of the yce was such as that it bred strange conceipts

among us, so that we supposed the place to be wast and voyd of any

sencible or vegitable creatures, whereupon I called the same

Desolation."

Icebergs were now constantly seen, some being of very considerable

dimensions, and looming in the distance like real islands. As one of our

men wittily remarked on seeing his first iceberg, it reminded him

strongly of the Isle of Wight (white)!!

The streams of ice through which the vessel was navigated were composed

of fragments of heavy pack ice, that had in all probability drifted down

the east coast of Greenland, and had been swept round Cape Farewell.

They were of very deep flotation, and great care had to be taken in

steering the ship through, so as to avoid striking these pieces more

than was absolutely necessary; so heavily laden was the ship, that the

force of the blows in some instances was very seriously felt.

[Illustration: SEALS BASKING ON THE ICE.]

Seals were seen basking lazily and dreamily on the ice, or following in

our wake, staring inquisitively at us with their large round eyes,

looking for all the world like human beings. The fabulous merman and

mermaiden seemed to us easily accounted for. The seals observed were of

two descriptions--namely, the _Pagomys foetidus_, or "floe-rat;" and the

_Pagophilus Groenlandicus_, the "saddle-back," or common Greenland seal.

Birds, common to these regions, hovered around, following us for days

together and breaking the solitude that surrounded us with their joyous

and gladsome presence.

The 1st of July was a beautiful, bright, clear, sunny day, and to us was

doubly welcome after the continuous bad weather which until now had been

our lot. Not a ripple disturbed the calm surface of the sea as it lay

blue and gleaming in the sunshine. Here and there a few small patches of

ice reminded us of our proximity to the Arctic circle, while a certain

sharp-bracing crispness in the air, together with a rather low

temperature, served to assure us that the high snow-covered land in the

distance was in reality "Greenland's icy mountains"--no hymnal myth as

supposed by many, but grand ranges, devoid of all verdure, wrapped in

their snowy mantle, and rising to an altitude of from two to three

thousand feet above the level of the sea, a majestic and sublime

reality.

By noon we were off the little Danish settlement of Fiskernaes, and

shortly afterwards passed that of Godthaab, but at too great a distance

to make out the buildings or any signs of inhabitants. It was at

Godthaab that Hans Egede landed on July 3rd, 1721, with his wife and

children, and commenced his noble and disinterested labour of love among

the Eskimos. The missionary institutions founded by Hans Egede and the

Moravians have gradually incorporated the whole population of Greenland

into Christian communities.

The appearance of this part of the coast of Greenland was very striking,

especially to those who were strangers to Arctic scenery. The mountains,

with their peaks so pointed as scarcely to admit of the snow resting on

their steep and almost precipitous sides, intersected by grand fiords

and gorges penetrating for miles into the interior, formed a magnificent

landscape.

To the great relief and joy of all, we were on this day rejoined by our

consort the "Discovery," who, like ourselves, had been roughly handled

by the tempestuous weather since we lost sight of her in the Atlantic.

Expecting to pass over the "Torske" banks, the dredge was prepared, and

fishing lines served out; every one busy stretching and fitting their

lines, and smacking their lips over an anticipated dinner of fresh cod

and halibut. Soundings in thirty fathoms having been obtained on one of

these banks, the ship was stopped and permission given to fish.

Immediately fifty or sixty fishing lines were over the side; but,

although our eager fishermen persevered for a couple of hours, no

capture rewarded their patience. The "wily cod" remained sullen at the

bottom, and could not even be induced to "nibble."

The dredge was also put over, and hauled in with unimportant results,

only a few echinoderms being obtained.

During the night an iceberg of curious shape was passed. When first seen

it was reported as a sail; on approaching it a little nearer it assumed

the appearance of a huge column-shaped basaltic rock, and then that of

a lighthouse; for some time it was really believed to be the former.

On the 4th of July the Arctic circle was crossed. From this date, for

some weeks, we were to have continuous day. The nights had for some time

past been getting gradually shorter: now they had ceased

altogether--candles and lamps were no longer necessary, bright sunlight

reigned paramount.

Two days afterwards the expedition was safely anchored in the bay of

Lievely, off the little Danish settlement of Godhavn. Although small, it

is the most important establishment in the Inspectorate of North

Greenland, for here resides the Royal Inspector, who controls, with

absolute authority, the large mixed population of Danes and Eskimos who

inhabit this the most northern civilized land in the world.

A salute of nine guns, from a small battery of three diminutive

specimens of ordnance, welcomed our arrival, the smoke from which had

scarcely blown away before Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, came on

board, anxious to offer assistance, and desirous of extending the

hospitalities of his house to the members of the expedition.

Nothing could be more kind than the reception accorded us by the

inhabitants of this little settlement. Their sole desire was to please

and aid us in every way, and we were soon firm and fast friends with the

innocent and simple-minded residents.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] See Dr. Rink's "Greenland," p. 79.

CHAPTER III.

THE GREENLAND SETTLEMENTS.

"Behold I see the haven nigh at hand,

To which I meane my wearie course to bend;

Vere the maine shete and beare up with the land,

The which afore is fayrly to be kend,

And seemeth safe from stormes that may offend."

SPENSER.

It was with a very pleasing sensation of relief that we found the ship

once more at rest, after thirty-four days of such knocking about as is

seldom experienced at sea for so long a time without a break. The

rolling and pitching to which a small ship is subjected in a heavy sea

are never altogether agreeable, and the quiet and repose of a snug

well-protected harbour are welcomed even by the "veriest old sea-dog."

But, although free from the turmoil of the "angry waste of waters," our

short stay at Godhavn can scarcely be called a period of rest. Much had

to be done, coals had to be taken on board, and a nondescript quantity

of stores and provisions received from the "Valorous" and stowed away.

The days were long, however. We had arrived in the region where the

midnight sun shone almost as brightly and gave as much light as at

noonday; and if, in consequence, the men were kept longer at work than

they otherwise would have been, they felt themselves amply compensated

for their extra labour by the indulgence of a run on shore in the

evening, and an open-air dance with the dusky and light-hearted beauties

of the land.

[Illustration: ESKIMO WOMEN.]

Never did the deck of a man-of-war present such an untidy and confused

appearance as ours did after receiving the last cask from the

"Valorous." Casks and cases lay higgledy-piggledy amongst coals and

ropes. Such a scene as our upper deck presented would have been

sufficient to drive a smart first lieutenant distracted. We were,

however, all much too practical to think of appearances, our sole

thought was to be provided with enough of everything to guard against

all accidents. Between decks was a repetition of the scene above, and it

was with the greatest difficulty we could move from one part of the ship

to the other. To add to the pleasing state of the vessel twenty-four

Eskimo dogs--the number was afterwards augmented to thirty--were

received on board, to be used in our sledging operations. Such a howling

lot! No sooner did they arrive than a regular battle ensued, and we were

compelled for some days to tie up a few of the most pugnacious, in order

to secure anything like peace.

This state of affairs, namely, the incessant fighting and squabbling

amongst the dogs, continued until one had gained the acknowledged

supremacy by thrashing the whole pack. This happens in all

well-regulated dog communities. The conqueror is henceforth styled the

"king" dog; he rules his subjects with despotic sway, frequently

settling a quarrel between a couple of pugilistic disputants, reserving

for himself the best of everything in the shape of food, the other dogs

yielding their tit-bits with cringing servility, exerting a complete

mastery over his canine subjects, and exacting from them the most abject

homage. The dogs were kept as much as possible in the fore part of the

ship, and soon became great favourites with the men.

To take charge of this unruly pack, we obtained the services, through

the kindness and assistance of Mr. Krarup Smith, the Inspector, of a

native Eskimo, who with his gun and kayak was duly installed on board in

the capacity of dog-driver and interpreter. He rejoiced in the name of

Frederic, and had the reputation of being a keen and successful hunter.

Although he could not boast of good looks, his bright cheerful face and

unvarying good temper soon made him a friend to all on board.

The novelty of a never-ending day, for the first time experienced by so

many in the expedition, sadly interfered with the natural time for rest

and sleep. Long past midnight would the sounds of music and mirth be

heard from the shore, as the dances were kept up with unabated vigour;

while shrieks of laughter and merriment would be heard afloat, as the

officers, indulging in aquatic tastes, would be seen rowing races in

small collapsible boats, or trying their skill for the first time in the

frail kayak. For the management of these latter fairy-like canoes great

caution is required--indeed, it is hardly possible to manage them

without much practice.

Our first lieutenant was, however, an exception to this rule, for owing

to experience acquired in canoes in various parts of the world, he

succeeded in the management of the kayak so admirably as to excite the

surprise and admiration of the natives. W----, another of our officers,

not to be outdone by his mess-mate, also tried his skill in one of these

little barks, but he had not paddled many yards before it capsized,

leaving him head down in the water, with his legs firmly jammed in the

boat. He would undoubtedly have been drowned before assistance could

arrive had he not shown a wonderful degree of presence of mind. So

securely was he fixed in his kayak, that it was only by unbuttoning his

braces and getting out of his trousers that he succeeded in extricating

himself from his dangerous predicament, leaving that article of dress

inside the kayak!

In spite of the multifarious duties connected with the ship, which kept

every one fully occupied, the pursuit of science was not neglected.

Several complete series of observations were obtained for the

determination of the magnetic force. Photographs were taken, and

geological and botanical collections were extensively made, whilst a

boat with the first lieutenant and our energetic naturalist proceeded

some little distance up the coast to a place called Ovifak for the

purpose of obtaining information regarding some "meteorites" reported to

have fallen there.

The desire of "stretching one's legs" after being cooped up on board

ship for so long was universally felt, and officers and men alike

enjoyed a scramble over the lofty volcanic cliffs which overlie the

gneiss in this part of the island of Disco.

The difficulty of the ascent of the Lyngenmarkfjeld, a range of hills

about two thousand feet in height, situated on the northern side of the

harbour, was amply compensated for by the view from its summit. Landing

in a pretty little bay, in which lay the remains of an old steam whaler,

the "Wildfire," that had fallen a victim to the ice some years ago, and

emerging from the rather dense, though stunted, vegetation that grows

luxuriantly at the base of these hills, the way led over precipitous

basaltic cliffs, until by dint of hard climbing the snow-clad heights

were reached.

The accomplishment of this task, however, was both arduous and perilous,

in consequence of the action of the frost on the rocks of which the

cliffs were composed; for on the slightest touch they often crumbled

away, rolling with a mass of _débris_ many hundreds of feet to the

bottom.

From the summit a glorious scene was revealed to us. The mainland of

Greenland, that land so "wonderfull mountaynous, whose mountaynes all

the yeare long are full of yce and snowe," was distinctly brought to our

view, whilst immediately at our feet was the picturesque settlement of

Godhavn, and the three vessels, resembling miniature toy-ships, lying at

anchor in its snug little harbour. The Whale-fish Islands, a group in

Disco Bay, lay spread out as it were on a map. Hundreds of icebergs

dotted the perfectly placid sea, and beyond them we could plainly

discern the great ice fiord of Jacobshavn with its gigantic discharging

glacier behind, and the mouth of its fiord almost choked with huge

fragments of ice, children of that same glacier. At brief intervals a

noise as of thunder or distant artillery announced the disruption, or

creation, of one of these wonderful islands of ice.

We were not, however, allowed to enjoy this glorious scene in quietness.

Our pleasure was marred by the attacks of swarms of musquitoes. These

irritating insects assailed us on first landing, and persecuted us

incessantly until we were again afloat.

"A cloud of cumbrous gnattes doe us molest,

All striving to infixe their feeble stinges,

That from their noyance we nowhere can reste."

It was indeed hard to meet so far in the icy north our implacable

enemies of the tropics!

The descent was as dangerous, though perhaps not so laborious as the

ascent. Occasionally we were able to avail ourselves of patches of snow,

down which we slid, much to the astonishment and discomfiture of my dog

Nellie, who was at a loss to understand the means of our rapid progress,

and who rushed down after us barking frantically.

We were excessively fortunate in our weather during our brief stay at

Godhavn. We rejoiced in ceaseless sunshine, which lit up the surrounding

hills with a golden light, throwing deep dark shadows into the valleys

and ravines by which they were intersected, whilst the bright rays of

the sun glittering on the ice-strewn surface of the sea formed a scene

at once novel and sublime.

Our short stay at Godhavn will, I think, always be regarded with

pleasure by the members of the expedition. Nothing could exceed the

kindness we received and the hospitality that was extended to us by the

good people on shore, who appeared to vie with each other in their

endeavours to render our visit an agreeable one. Nor was it only from

the inhabitants that we received so much kindness. The captain,

officers, and indeed I may say the ship's company of the "Valorous" were

unremitting in their exertions to provide us with every necessary that

it was in their power to supply, for the furtherance of the arduous

service in which we were so soon to be engaged, depriving themselves of

many things that they thought would add to our comfort.

Although the Eskimos, according to Dr. Rink, and we can have no better

authority respecting the natives of Greenland, have a pretty fair talent

for writing and drawing, scarcely any traces of sculpture belonging to

earlier times remain, with the exception of a few small images cut out

in wood or bone, which had probably served children as playthings.

Notwithstanding the want of means for handing down to posterity and

retaining historical events amongst this interesting people, many

traditions and legends have been preserved. Among the number is one

relating to this island of Disco. It was supposed to have been situated

off the southern coast of Greenland, and in consequence of its cutting

off the inhabitants of the mainland from the open sea, a great dislike

was entertained for it; for, to live comfortably, an Eskimo must be in

the vicinity of the sea, so as to follow his usual avocation of seal

hunting.

The story relates that two old men, having set their wise heads

together, determined to attempt the removal of the island with the aid

of magic. A third old gentleman, however, desired to retain it in its

position. The first two, launching their kayaks, fastened the hair of a

little child to the island wherewith to tow it by; whilst the other,

from the shore, attempted to keep it back by means of a sealskin thong.

Desperately did the two kayakers labour at their paddles in their

endeavours to move the island, chanting their spells as they tugged at

the hair. But as resolutely did the third man hold on to his thong,

straining every nerve to render their exertions abortive; suddenly, to

his chagrin, the thong parted, and the island floated off, and was towed

away triumphantly to the northward, where it was deposited in its

present position.

Another tradition says it was removed from Baal's River to its present

site by a famous angekok, or magician, and that the harbour of Godhavn

is the actual hole in the island to which the tow rope was fastened.

On the afternoon of July the 15th, amidst much firing of guns and

dipping of flags, the little squadron steamed out of the harbour,

threading its way through innumerable icebergs, and passing along the

high snow-clad hills that adorn the southern end of the island of Disco,

proceeded towards the settlement of Ritenbenk, at which we arrived the

following morning. The scenery as we approached the anchorage was truly

magnificent. Lofty hills encompassed us on either hand, down whose steep

sides the water was pouring in rapid cascades, produced by the thawing

of the snow on their summits. How full of life and joy appeared these

bright sparkling streams as they seemed to chase each other in wanton

sport, skipping from rock to crag in their headlong career, until lost

in one large sheet of glistening spray that poured over the edge of a

precipitous cliff into the clear still water at its base!

Thousands of birds congregate along the inaccessible ledges of these

cliffs, perched in such precise order, and having such a uniformity of

colour, that they resemble regiments of soldiers drawn up in readiness

to defend their fortresses from the attacks of ruthless invaders. But

fresh food was at a premium, and the wretched looms were doomed to

suffer a long assault at the hands of our energetic sportsmen.

Other and more weighty matters also required our attention. We were to

bid farewell to the "Valorous" on the following morning. And with her we

should lose the last connecting link with home.

Letters had to be hurriedly finished, and then we had to bid adieu to

one to whose untiring energy the departure of the expedition was due,

who had been mainly instrumental in obtaining the sanction of Government

for its dispatch, and who, leaving the comforts of a home life, had

accompanied us thus far on our journey, sharing our discomforts, but

adding to our knowledge from his rich fund of information, and

enlivening our mess-table with his conversation and presence.

We felt, whilst he was on board, that we were not quite separated from

the civilized world. His departure made a chasm that it was difficult

for some time to bridge over, but the memory of him lived long amongst

us, and served to recall many a pleasant and happy hour.

At four o'clock on the morning of the 17th the "Valorous" steamed away

from us on her way to the coal quarries on the north side of the island

of Disco, and, two hours after, the "Discovery" and ourselves put to

sea, having increased the number of our dogs by purchasing several from

the natives at Ritenbenk.

The scenery in the Waigat, a strait separating the island of Disco from

the mainland of Greenland, is very grand. The channel was rendered

almost impassable from the number of icebergs of every fantastic form

and shape that lay scattered about, and which, although adding

materially to the beauty of the scene, made the passage one of no little

intricacy: indeed we very narrowly escaped losing all our boats on one

side of the ship by shaving a large iceberg a little too closely!

On one side were the high snow-clad hills of Disco, intersected by deep

and narrow ravines, whilst on the opposite side was a bold and lofty

coast with precipitous headlands ending in needle-shaped peaks and

separated by glaciers and fiords. Passing the beautiful large

discharging glacier of Itivdliarsuk, many minor ones opened to our view

as we sailed slowly past, presenting a panorama such as it would be

impossible to depict faithfully on canvas.

Several remarkable red patches, apparently of basalt, were observed on

the bare gneiss hills in the vicinity of Point Kardluk, which is noted

for the large quantity of vegetable fossils that have been found there,

and close to the petrified forest of Atanekerdluk.

Catching sight of the "Valorous" at anchor, busily engaged in procuring

coal, we endeavoured to reach her, for the purpose of sending a few

stray letters that had been inadvertently left behind; but a thick fog

overtaking us, we were very reluctantly compelled to relinquish all idea

of communicating, and had to be satisfied with reading the signal of

"farewell" and "good wishes" that she threw out. It was fortunately

distinguished before the vessels were effectually concealed from each

other by an impervious fog which crept over the surface of the sea,

hiding everything around us, though high above our heads the mountain

tops were clearly to be seen.

So dense did it become that we were, after a time, obliged to make the

ships fast to icebergs to await a more favourable opportunity of

advancing.

Whilst attempting to secure the ships an alarming catastrophe occurred.

The boat had been dispatched containing three men with the necessary

implements, such as an ice drill and anchor, for making the vessel fast.

As soon as the first blow of the drill was delivered the berg, to our

horror, split in two with a loud report, one half with one of our men on

it toppling completely over, whilst the other half swayed rapidly

backwards and forwards. On this latter piece was another of our men, who

was observed with his heels in the air, the violent agitation of the

berg having precipitated him head foremost into a rent or crevasse. The

water alongside was a mass of seething foam and spray; but curious to

relate, the boat with the third man in it was in no way injured. They

were all speedily rescued from their perilous position and brought on

board, sustaining no further harm than that inflicted by a cold bath.

Their escape appeared miraculous.

By the next morning we were through the Waigat Strait. Much to our

disappointment the weather remained thick, and we were in consequence

unable to gratify ourselves with a sight of the truly grand scenery to

be found at the mouth of the Omenak fiord, which possesses some of the

largest discharging glaciers in Greenland.

On the night of the 19th both vessels came to an anchor off the Danish

settlement of Proven.

The harbour, which is small, is formed by two islands. On the western

side of the easternmost of the two is situated the quaintest of quaint

little settlements. It consists of a neat little church, the Governor's

residence, the storehouse, boiling down establishment, smithy, about two

other wooden habitations, and some igdlus, or Eskimo huts. Of course it

boasts its flagstaff and battery of three guns. The Governor, who, in

his endeavour to be civil, had boarded us before anchoring, apologized

for not saluting, saying "that though he had the guns he had no

artillerists." Although it was midnight before we arrived, the

inhabitants were lining the side of the hill as we entered, the white

boots and fur jackets and short trousers of the women affording a very

novel though picturesque scene.

The dogs on shore, evidently annoyed at being disturbed in their

slumbers, set up a fearful howling, which, being answered by the dogs in

both ships, produced a most unpleasant and discordant concert. The

natives have a saying, when the dogs make this noise, "that they are

holding their parliament." This is hardly flattering to the Greenland

senate!

During our short stay at this place a rough survey of the harbour was

taken, and a number of scientific observations were made.

Nothing could be kinder or more friendly than the reception met with

from all on shore. In the Governor's good wife I recognized an old

acquaintance whom I had had the pleasure of meeting on a former occasion

during a cruise in a whaler to these regions.

Here also we succeeded in engaging the services of Hans Hendrik, an

Eskimo, as dog-driver and hunter. This man had been employed in the same

capacity in all the American expeditions to Smith's Sound, and was an

invaluable acquisition.

Our men enjoyed themselves every evening during our stay, dancing to

their hearts' content.

My black retriever, Nellie, was a great object of admiration amongst the

inhabitants, one man especially being very pertinacious in his request

that she might be presented to him. On inquiring to what use he would

put her, I was informed that my faithful companion would be converted

into food for the man's oily-faced family, whilst her beautiful black

curly coat would serve to adorn his wife's person. Nellie, I think, had

some notion of the designs on her life and skin, as in future she always

regarded with disfavour not only the Eskimos themselves, but also their

dogs and everything belonging to them.

Leaving Proven on the evening of the 21st of July, we arrived on the

same night off a remarkable headland called "Sanderson, his hope." It

was so named by old John Davis, after his friend and patron, Mr. W.

Sanderson, in 1587, and was the extreme northern point reached by him

during his third voyage.[1]

This prominent and precipitous cliff is a famous place for looms, as

those white-breasted guillemots are termed, which are considered such

rare delicacies on an Arctic table. They are the _Uria Brunnichii_ of

naturalists, and are numerous in sub-Arctic regions. Their favourite

breeding-places are along these terraced cliffs, where they assemble in

large quantities.

Of course so favourable an opportunity of procuring fresh food was not

to be disregarded. The ships were hove to, and the boats, crammed with

eager sportsmen, dispatched for the purpose of shooting for the "pot."

Myriads of these birds were congregated along the face of the steep

precipitous cliffs, in some places almost overhanging, which rose

abruptly to an altitude of about a thousand feet. Owing, however, to the

unsteadiness of the boats, caused by the roughness of the sea, our "bag"

did not realize our anticipations. Many of the birds that were shot

remained on the inaccessible ledges of the rocks, and were therefore

lost to us; and many fell into the sea beyond, and were no more seen.

The midnight sun was shining brightly during this _battue_, and we

returned to the ship, after a couple of hours' sport, the richer by one

hundred and seventy birds, each equal in weight to a fair-sized duck.

For the succeeding three or four days we revelled in "loom soup," "loom

pie," or "roast loom," and looms cooked in every imaginable form. No

matter how they were served up, they were always pronounced to be

delicious. Indeed, one of my messmates went so far as to say that he had

never tasted anything better in his life. In fact, for the purpose of

thoroughly enjoying a good dinner, a trip to the Arctic regions is

indispensable!

On the following morning we anchored off Upernivik,[2] the most northern

settlement but one in Greenland. It is situated on one of the Woman

Islands, so named by Baffin in 1616. The usual kindness and hospitality

were extended to us here, as at all the other Danish settlements

visited. We also received important information concerning the state of

the ice to the northward, with a tabulated statement of all the

meteorological observations obtained during the previous winter, a study

of which would be of the greatest importance to us.

In the evening, taking the "Discovery" in tow, we again put to sea, this

time finally bidding farewell to civilization. From henceforth our

energies and our thoughts must turn Polewards.

As the last glimpse of the little church was shut out from our view,

many a prayer was silently offered to Him in his infinite mercy to

protect and guide us in our endeavours, and to vouchsafe us a safe

return again to home and civilization.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] On his return to England he wrote to his friend, saying, "I have

been in 73°, finding the sea all open and forty leagues between land

and land. The passage (the N.W.) is most probable, the execution

easie, as at my coming you shall fully knowe."

[2] It is sometimes spelt Uppernavik. But Upernivik is the correct

form. See Rink, p. 354. It means spring in the Eskimo language.

Upernivik is in 72° 48´ N. The most northern Danish station is

Tasiusak, in 73° 24´ N.

CHAPTER IV.

MELVILLE BAY AND THE NORTH WATER.

"Embark with me, while I new tracts explore,

With flying sails and breezes from the shore.

Not that my song, in such a scanty space,

So large a subject fully can embrace.

Not though I were supplied with iron lungs,

A hundred mouths, filled with as many tongues.

But steer my vessel with a steady hand,

And coast along the shore in sight of land.

Nor will I try thy patience with a train

Of preface, or what ancient poets feign."

VIRGIL.

Threading our way through narrow passages between numerous islands that

lay to the eastward of Upernivik, and trusting to the knowledge and

guidance of an Eskimo pilot, we felt at length that we had in reality,

seen the last for some time, of our fellow men, and that our struggle

with the almost insuperable difficulties of the frozen north was about

to commence.

Preparations for an unsuccessful combat with the ice were made, and

every precaution was adopted necessary to ensure the safety of the men,

in cases of extreme emergency. The boats were prepared for immediate

service, each man having his allotted station, so that little or no

confusion would ensue if the abandonment of the ships should be decided

upon--an event that was by no means improbable. Ice-saw crews were

organized in readiness for cutting a dock, in case such a proceeding

should become necessary for the protection of the vessels. Provisions

and clothes were so arranged along the upper deck that they could easily

and readily be thrown out on the ice at a moment's notice. Knapsacks,

each containing two pairs of blanket wrappers, one pair of hose, one

pair of stockings, one pair of mitts, one pair of drawers, a Welsh wig,

a jersey, a comforter, a pair of moccasins, a towel and small piece of

soap, were packed and placed in some handy position where they could be

reached without delay. The necessary tackles for lifting the screw and

unshipping the rudder were provided: in fact every preparation was made

that could possibly be thought of to guard against accidents and to

promote success in the forthcoming conflict.

On the morning after leaving Upernivik, on account of a dense fog, it

was determined to anchor off one of the small islands composing a group

through which we were passing, in order to wait for finer weather.

Our pilot, getting into his kayak, offered to pioneer us into a little

bay with which he was intimately acquainted. Being totally unable to

realize the difference of size between the large unwieldy "Alert" and

his own frail little bark, and probably imagining that where he was able

to go in his tiny boat, we also could do the same, he led us close in to

the land, which, on account of the thick fog, was hidden from our view,

and we soon had the annoyance of finding our ship hard and fast on

shore. Fortunately we were going very slow at the time, so that no

injury was sustained; but we remained immoveable for many hours until

the flood-tide floated us and enabled us once more to proceed.

The dangers connected with a passage through Melville Bay are now so

well known to all who have taken any interest in Arctic affairs, or who

have devoted any time to the perusal of Arctic literature, that it is

needless for me either to explain or dwell upon them at any length. Many

a well-equipped ship has been caught in the fatal embrace of this bay.

What tales of woe and disaster could its icy waters unfold, coupled,

however, with deeds of heroic daring, endurance, and suffering!

Captain Nares, determining to avoid the ordinary passage through this

once dreaded bay, the dangers of which in these days of steam have been

so materially lessened, pushed his ships boldly through what is

generally termed the "middle ice." This, at such a late season of the

year, is undoubtedly a wise course; but woe to the unfortunate ship that

at an earlier period should be caught in this moving pack, and be there

detained for thirteen or fourteen months, as the little "Fox" was, under

the command of Sir Leopold McClintock!

If the pack is composed of loose light ice, such as we found it to be,

rendering a passage through it one of no difficulty, it may also be

presumed that the ice in Melville Bay at the same time would be of the

same consistency, thereby also affording an easy and safe passage

through.

The reason that the passage by Melville Bay is always taken by the

whalers is the existence of fixed land ice, which is found adhering to

the shores, and in which it is easy to cut a dock for the preservation

of the ship if the heavy pack is forced by wind, or otherwise, towards

it, thereby endangering any vessel that may happen to be between the

two. Directly the pack moves off the vessel is liberated and proceeds on

her voyage.

It would be very different if the ship was caught in the pack. Then she

would, in all probability, be severely handled, and being beset would

drift to the southward with the ice and thereby lose all the hard-fought

ground gained with so much labour and fatigue.

One of the most important maxims in ice navigation, which is strictly

followed out by the whalers, is "stick to the land-ice."

We were certainly extremely fortunate in finding the pack so "loose" as

to give us little trouble or difficulty in making progress. The ice was

of a soft "brashy" nature, apparently only of one year's formation, and

only from one to three feet in thickness. The weather being fine and

calm, advantage was taken of it to steam full speed, for there was no

saying how quickly the ice might pack with even a light breeze. The tow

rope was accordingly cast off, and we proceeded at our highest rate of

speed with the "Discovery" following close at our heels.

Occasionally our progress would be checked by a stream of ice extending

across the lane of water through which we were steering; but through

these obstructions we bored, or charged them at full speed, and thus

cleared a way. A walrus and a few seals were seen on the ice, but their

capture did not hold out sufficient inducement to detain the ship.

Very different from the apathy shown on passing these animals was the

excitement exhibited when a bear, a veritable Polar bear, was seen on

the ice. Such a rush for rifles and weapons of all descriptions! It was

the first and only bear seen, and therefore the excitement its presence

caused was natural. Every one appeared to share in it. Bear-skins were

certainly on that day at a premium, for all were eager and anxious to

become the fortunate possessor of such a prize. Master Bruin, however,

did not reciprocate this feeling, and evinced an equal amount of anxiety

to retain his nice warm coat.

The engines were immediately stopped, and the boats crammed with

volunteer hunters. These landing on the ice, advanced upon their quarry

in skirmishing order, while the ship, steaming round to the opposite

side of the floe, endeavoured to cut off his retreat. All was

ineffectual. Bruin's strategic abilities were of too high an order for

us to cope successfully with him in his own territories, and he escaped.

Many rounds of ammunition, however, were fired at him both from the

party on shore and also by those on board the ship, in the faint hope

that a lucky shot might bring him down. To this day there are many who

seriously believe that he carried away with him a portion of the bullets

they so lavishly expended. So keen were some in the ardour and

excitement of the chase that they rushed on, heedless of the rotten and

treacherous nature of the ice, until an immersion in the cold water

brought them to a sense of their danger and compelled them to seek

refuge on board the ship, wet, cold, and uncomfortable. Many little

rotges (_Alca alle_) were flitting about from the ice to the water, and

the beautiful ivory gull (_Larus eburneus_) was also seen for the first

time.

[Illustration: POLAR BEARS.]

In thirty-four hours from first encountering the ice we reached the

North Water, and our troubles were for a time at an end. It was an

unprecedented passage. Only seventy hours from Upernivik to Cape York!

Melville Bay, with all its terrors, was behind us; a beautifully smooth

unruffled sea, devoid of all ice, was in front; everything pointed to

success, and the hearts of all in the expedition beat high with joy and

delight at the speedy prospect of attaining the utmost realization of

their hopes. Large icebergs were around us in every direction; but what

cared we then for icebergs? We had continuous day; the North Water had

been reached; our way lay northwards. In a few short days the entrance

of Smith Sound would be reached, the threshold of the unknown region

crossed, and then onwards to--where? We did not dare to anticipate, but

we felt that the first step towards success had been gained, and that we

had commenced our real work under most propitious circumstances. We

would not predict, but we determined to deserve, success.

It was, for many reasons, a matter of congratulation that this "North

Water" had been so speedily and so successfully reached. Instead of only

two or three weeks of the navigable season being available for us to

penetrate the hidden mysteries of Smith Sound, owing to our rapid

passage, we could reckon upon a clear month or five weeks before being

compelled to secure our ship in winter quarters; besides which, our fuel

had been very materially saved by this quick run, and this in itself, to

ships situated as we were, was no unimportant matter.

On reaching the neighbourhood of Cape York, the "Discovery" was ordered

to proceed shorewards for the purpose of communicating with the natives

(the Arctic Highlanders of Sir John Ross), in the hope of inducing one

of their number, a brother-in-law of Hans, to accompany the expedition;

the "Alert" in the mean time shaping a course to the Cary Islands, at

which latter place the "Discovery" was ordered to rejoin us.

The scenery, as we steamed along at a distance of about two miles from

the shore, was most interesting. The hills along the coast were entirely

clad with snow, whilst the long undulating ranges, as they receded far

back to the horizon, appeared to be buried under the everlasting _mer de

glace_. Numerous glaciers of various sizes, some of them being

discharging ones, rolled down to the water's edge in one vast icy sheet.

The width of one of these, the Petowik Glacier, is fully seven miles.

Fragments from these lay scattered along the coast in every direction,

whilst we had to thread our way through clusters of huge bergs of every

form and size. Passing the crimson cliffs of Beverley, we were able to

distinguish, in a few small patches, the so-called coloured snow whence

the name originates; but not in the highly imaginative mass of bright

colour depicted by Sir John Ross, in his interesting illustrated work

describing his voyage to Baffin Bay. The question of the nature of this

colouring matter on snow has now been definitely set at rest. It is an

alga, the _Protococcus nivalis_.

We did not reach the Cary Islands so soon as we expected, in consequence

of experiencing a strong S.E. current that had not been anticipated. A

sudden rise of temperature of the surface water naturally led us to

suppose that it must be due to the absence of ice, which, raising our

spirits, made us regard with displeasure any hindrance to our progress.

Arriving off the Cary group early on the morning of the 27th, we were

detained for a few hours landing a boat with a large depôt of

provisions, sufficient to sustain 60 men for two months, or 120 men for

one month. The depôt was placed on the easternmost island, and a large

cairn was erected on the highest and most prominent point. Here also

were deposited the last home letters which our friends were destined to

receive until after our own arrival in England.

The depôt was established as a safeguard for us to fall back upon in

case of any accident happening to our vessels in Smith Sound. From this

position it was expected that a party duly provisioned would have little

difficulty in reaching the northern Greenland settlements, or at any

rate the simple but hospitable natives of Cape York, who would, it was

anticipated, afford us protection and assistance. This duty having been

accomplished, and having been rejoined by our consort, the northward

course was resumed.[1]

Crossing over to the eastward we steamed along on that beautifully clear

sunny morning within a short distance of the western shores of

Greenland. With the exception of icebergs, not a speck of ice was to be

seen to disturb the smooth glassy surface of the sea. Passing the mouth

of Whale Sound we made rapid progress northwards, steering between

Northumberland and Hakluyt Islands, almost under their steep,

precipitous, and in some places overhanging cliffs; on past Murchison

Sound with the Crystal Palace glacier ahead, whilst on our port bow was

easily discernible the opposite coast of Ellesmere Land, with the Prince

of Wales Mountains, covered with snow or ice, rising above the western

horizon.

It was indeed a glorious sight as we passed close to this little known

land, opening out, as we proceeded, its many and large glaciers

glittering white and radiant in the sunshine, growing, as it were, out

of the clouds and rolling down grandly towards the sea, until the opaque

masses plunged sullenly and silently into the deep blue water.

Animal life, so far as the feathered tribes were concerned, appeared in

abundance. The lively little rotges or little auks (_Alca alle_) were

seen in frequent clusters diving quickly under water as the ship

approached. Looms (_Uria Brunnichii_), dovekies (_Uria grylle_), and

king-ducks (_Somateria spectabilis_), alarmed at our appearance, rose in

long flights, and circled around us uttering their discordant cries. The

glaucous gull and the pretty kittiwake (_Larus tridactylus_) soared

above our heads, whilst occasionally a graceful ivory gull (_Larus

eburneus_) flapped its way leisurely along, its snowy wings contrasting

with the background of clear blue sky. Here and there, on small

fragments of floating ice, were seen huge walruses basking in the golden

sunshine. Amid such scenes, which to be realized must be seen, the two

vessels wended their way towards the entrance of Smith Sound, all elated

with the fair prospect that was before them and hopeful for the future.

At half-past seven on the morning of the 28th of July both ships came to

an anchor in Hartstene Bay, more commonly known as Port Foulke, the

harbour in which Dr. Hayes wintered in 1860.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] The Cary Islands consist of a group of eight islands, besides

small rocks or islets, and are situated in Baffin Bay, in lat. 76°

45´ N. They vary in size from two and a half miles in diameter

downwards. They are composed of syenitic and porphyritic granite,

overlaid in places with gneiss. They rise to a height of about 400

feet above the level of the sea, and possess a luxuriant vegetation,

at least for these regions. They are much frequented as breeding

places by the eider-ducks and looms.

CHAPTER V.

SMITH SOUND.

"Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles,

On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles.

Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow,

From wastes that slumber in eternal snow,

And waft across the waves' tumultuous roar

The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore."

CAMPBELL.

No sooner were the ships secured and breakfast discussed, than there was

a regular rush for the shore. Some went for a scramble over the

neighbouring glacier, named by Dr. Kane, "My brother John's glacier;"

some went to collect specimens; others to take various scientific

observations; and others to hunt and shoot--this spot having been found

wonderfully prolific of game, more especially of reindeer, during Dr.

Hayes's stay. No signs of any inhabitants were visible. This surprised

us, as we were fully expecting to meet the natives of the village of

Etah, situated only a couple of miles from the anchorage. A visit to the

village during the course of the day proved the huts to be standing, but

quite deserted. Traces of their having been recently inhabited were

manifest, and portions of seal and walrus meat were discovered in

_caches_, as if the migration was only temporary and a return was

meditated. No other signs, however, of any living human being were

found.

Leaving to others the exploration of the country in the immediate

vicinity of the harbour, Captain Nares and myself started, in one of the

whale-boats, with four men, for the purpose of visiting Life-boat Cove,

where some of the officers and crew of the "Polaris" spent their second

winter, 1872-3, and also to search for an iron boat on Littleton Island,

said to have been left there by Dr. Hayes in 1860.

Sailing round Sunrise Point, we encountered a fresh northerly wind dead

in our teeth, against which, under oars, we made but slow progress,

whilst the cold spray flew aft into our faces where it almost froze.

After about five hours' hard pulling Life-boat Cove was reached, and

very glad we all were to get on shore and stretch our legs and restore

the circulation of our blood.

Immediately on landing we met with traces of the late occupants. These

consisted of a large cairn--which, however, had been demolished by

others previous to our arrival, probably by the searching expedition

sent out in the "Tigress" in 1873--a basket lined with tin, and a trunk,

neither of which contained anything of importance; indeed, their

contents and the strong odour pervading them convinced us that they were

now the property of Eskimos. Strolling on a little further, a boat was

seen, which, although somewhat of European shape, appeared to be of

Eskimo construction, as it was simply a framework covered with skins;

yet it was undoubtedly built under a white man's superintendence.

Continuing to advance until we reached the western extreme of the spit

of land on which we had landed, we conjectured, from the amount of

_débris_ by which we were surrounded, although no remains of a house

were visible, that we were on the site of the Americans' winter

quarters. Trunks, boxes, stoves, pieces of wood, gun-barrels, and odds

and ends of all descriptions lay strewed about over an area of half a

square mile--a desolate scene of ruin and misery!

Some of the boxes were marked with the names of their previous owners,

and contained, amongst other things, books, principally relating to the

Arctic regions. One trunk contained a few small articles of female

apparel, such as a lace collar and black veil, and some faded ribbons;

souvenirs from some fair damsel at home, which had probably, from the

thoughts their presence created, beguiled many a long and lonely hour

during the monotonous winter night. Numerous cairns and _caches_, under

which were deposited lumps of seal blubber, led us to suppose that the

natives intended returning, especially with such a mine of wealth to

attract them as an abundance of wood and iron, so invaluable to an

Eskimo.

Two other boats were also found, constructed in the same rude manner as

the first. On one was painted, in good large letters, the word MAUMOKPO;

though what it meant we were at a loss to conceive, but concluded it was

an Icelandic name.

Two Casella thermometers, marked as low as 130° below zero, were also

picked up in perfect order. It is to be regretted that these were not

self-registering maximum and minimum thermometers, as it would have been

most interesting to have ascertained the greatest amount of heat and

cold at this spot during a period of more than two years.

Collecting everything that we considered of the least value, such as

books and instruments, for the purpose of returning them to the United

States Government, and taking possession of a couple of boats, which we

thought would prove useful at some of our depôts, we embarked and

proceeded towards Littleton Island, with our prizes in tow. Diligent

search was made for the pendulum said to have been left by the "Polaris"

people, but without success: also for the box chronometers and transit

instrument, but with a like result. We could only come to the conclusion

that, if these articles had been left there, somebody had been before

us. Every cairn and _cache_ was thoroughly examined, and so was every

nook and crannie within a radius of half a mile from where we imagined

the house had originally stood. A chronometer-box was picked up, but

empty.

On landing at Littleton Island a careful search was instituted for

Hayes's boat, but, although we made the complete circuit of the island,

we failed to discover any traces of it whatever. At the south-west end

we erected a cairn on the highest hill, about five or six hundred feet

above the level of the sea, and obtained a round of angles with the

theodolite. The view from the top of this hill was very cheering. Cape

Sabine was distinctly visible; whilst farther to the northward could be

seen the land about Cape Fraser, with _no signs of ice_! We were,

however, too wary to indulge to excess in hopeful anticipations, knowing

full well the vagaries of our capricious enemy, the ice; but still such

a scene could not but tend to cheer and exhilarate, and send us back to

our ship with light and buoyant hearts.

It was past midnight before we reached the "Alert." Our sportsmen, we

found, had been unsuccessful in their endeavours to shoot any reindeer;

one, however, fell to the rifle of an officer of the "Discovery." Very

few were seen, and those so wild as to render an approach within range

no easy matter. Several ducks and a few hares, however, were obtained.

Leaving Port Foulke on the following morning, we crossed over to the

west side, and erected a large cairn on the summit of Cape Isabella,

about one thousand feet above the level of the sea. The ascent of this

headland was both arduous and dangerous. The face of the cliff was very

precipitous, and it was only by a zig-zag course that it could be

effected. At one moment the way led over loose shingle, that gave way

under the feet at every step; at another over a broad patch of frozen

snow, one false step on whose slippery surface would precipitate one

many hundred feet below; and at another we were clinging desperately

with hands and feet to the hard, smooth, syenitic granite rocks, of

which this cape is composed. Very thankful were we when the summit was

reached; but much more so when we found ourselves again at its base,

sound in wind and limb. To add to the difficulties, there was a high

wind and dense snowstorm.

At a less high elevation, and in a secure niche amongst the rocks, were

deposited an empty cask and about one hundred and fifty pounds of

preserved beef. The cask was intended for the reception of any letters

that might be brought up by a Government ship in the following year, or

by any enterprising and adventurous whaling captain who should penetrate

so far in order to bring us news. The provisions were left as a small

depôt for any sledging party that might be dispatched to the southward.

The site was marked by a small cairn. Records were left at each of these

cairns detailing the movements and the prospects of the expedition,

together with instructions regarding our letters, should any be brought

thus far.

Some beautiful little yellow poppies were gathered on the slopes and

crests of the hill, whilst the draba and saxifrage were found growing in

profusion.

The navigation of these icy seas is most uncertain! Within twenty-four

hours of the time that, from the summit of Littleton Island, we had been

cheered by the view of an apparently open sea free of ice, and extending

in our imagination for miles to the northward, we were battling with the

pack, consisting of large floes and loose broken-up fields, that

extended on both sides of us and as far north as we could see. From this

period our troubles commenced; from this date our progress was one

endless and unceasing struggle with the ice: ever on the watch, and

never allowing a favourable opportunity to pass unheeded.

Shortly after leaving Cape Isabella the ice was observed stretching

across Baird Inlet--the fixed land ice with loose detached streams. As

we proceeded more ice was seen, which by degrees completely surrounded

us, and we only succeeded, after much boring and charging, in forcing a

way through, and into a well-protected little harbour to the southward

of Cape Sabine. This bay was formed by a deep indentation in the land

having a long jutting-out spit to the S.E. which acted as a famous

breakwater, and was protected seawards by Brevoort Island. Here we were

detained for five days, although several attempts were made to proceed,

which resulted in one instance in a hopeless besetment in the ice for

some hours. The pack was impenetrable; our only hope was to wait

patiently for a strong wind to open out a passage. The place was in

consequence called "Bide-a-wee" Harbour, subsequently changed to Payer

Harbour, after the distinguished Austrian Arctic explorer of that name.

During our detention the time of the officers was not unprofitably

spent. A rough survey of the place was made, its position was correctly

ascertained, a series of magnetic observations were obtained, and long

walks were taken in the neighbourhood, during which a large and rich

collection was made in the interests of geology and botany. No game of

any description was seen. Traces of Eskimo were discovered, but

evidently of an ancient date. They consisted of the remains of igdlus or

huts, also some bone spear-heads, and the runners and cross-bars of a

sledge.[1] Tidal observations were also taken in the harbour.

Here also, it may be said, we received our first lessons in the art of

sledging; for, wishing to be initiated into its mysteries, a party,

consisting of four officers and five men dragging one of our large

twenty-feet ice boats on a sledge, started to travel over the pack. Our

main object was of course to derive some practical experience in this

all-important mode of Arctic exploration, and in this, I think, we

succeeded.

We found the ice exceedingly hummocky, with narrow water spaces between,

_just_ too broad to admit of our jumping over, yet not sufficiently

wide to launch the boat into. So rough was the road that at one time the

bows of the boat would be seen rising almost perpendicularly in the air,

whilst all hands were engaged in long-standing pulls on the drag-ropes

to the tune of "one, two, three, haul;" at another time the sledge would

come down the side of a hummock with such rapidity as to give us hardly

time to spring out of the way to avoid the sledge and boat coming over

us, and many were the falls in consequence. It was, however, rare fun.

Once while launching the boat into a pool of water she nearly capsized;

as it was she half filled, and everything inside--provisions, clothes,

instruments, guns, and ammunition--was thoroughly saturated. A gold

watch that happened to be in a coat pocket was not improved by its

immersion.

Another source of amusement during our stay in this harbour was chasing

"unies," as narwhals are invariably called by the whalers; but, although

a good deal of patience and perseverance was displayed in attempts to

harpoon them, these qualities were never rewarded, and the boats always

returned unsuccessful from their pursuit.

Our little check in this harbour produced a slight despondency in those

who, for the previous few days, had been most sanguine of pushing on.

This was always alluded to in the ward-room as the depression of the

social barometer, and was for the future daily registered!

On the morning of the 4th of August, a southerly gale having blown all

the previous night, a channel of open water was visible as far as Cape

Sabine. This was an opportunity not to be lost. Accordingly, at 4 A.M.,

the anchors were weighed, and, before a fresh but bitter cold wind, both

ships made sail, and succeeded, after having made so many futile

attempts, in rounding the Cape. Bearing away to the westward we steered

up Hayes Sound, keeping close in to the land, the grounded icebergs

giving us timely notice of shoal water. At noon, opening a perfectly

land-locked bay, and the ice being so closely packed ahead as to defy

farther progress, the vessels were steered for the entrance, and we soon

found ourselves in a beautiful inlet enclosed by high land, but bounded

on one side by one of the grandest sights it is possible to behold: two

enormous glaciers coming from different directions, but converging at

their termination. They reminded us of two huge giants silently

attempting to push and force each other away.

It was indeed a noble sight, and filled us with impatient curiosity for

the moment when we could land and indulge in a closer inspection.

Accordingly, the anchors were no sooner let go than several started for

the purpose of paying it a visit. Landing abreast of the ship, we had

rather a rough and tumble sort of a scramble over loose masses of

gneiss, until we emerged on the banks of the bed of the glacier--that

is, the bed formed by the water running from the glacier during the

summer thaws. The walking was most laborious, at one moment through a

wet swampy bog, and at another over rough sharp-pointed stones.

The vegetation appeared luxuriant, and we found the traces of musk-oxen,

reindeer, wolves, foxes, and hares in abundance; but, although we were

provided with guns, we failed to secure any game, for the simple reason

that we saw none. But the traces of musk-oxen were very fresh, and

several horns of the reindeer were picked up. After a tedious walk of

about four or five miles we arrived at the glacier--the stupendous and

sublime work of ages. How insignificant and despicable did we appear in

comparison to this gigantic creation of Nature! I can compare it to

nothing except, perhaps, a frozen Niagara! The left-hand glacier was

rounded off, like a huge icy wave to its end, whilst it receded from our

view in long milky undulations until lost in the clouds. The right-hand

one--the lateral and terminal sides of which were quite precipitous--was

pressing against its neighbour until it had raised a slight ridge

between the two. We were naturally desirous of ascending one or both of

these glaciers, but time would not admit of such an undertaking, and we

were therefore compelled to content ourselves by standing upon a small

projection of each glacier, so as to be able to say that we had been on

them.

That Eskimos had visited this locality was certain; for we discovered on

our way out the site of an old settlement, and on the way back we

observed two large cairns that had evidently been used as _caches_.

Alexandra Bay and Twin Glacier Valley, as they were henceforth

designated, were the nearest approach to an Arctic paradise that we saw

during our sojourn in the Polar Regions. A sheltered and well-protected

harbour, with a locality abounding in game of various descriptions, are

of such importance that it is impossible to prize them too highly. They

should be the first and grand objects to be taken into consideration

whilst selecting a spot for winter quarters.

Although we were not fortunate in obtaining game during our stay of only

a few hours in this interesting neighbourhood, I have not the slightest

doubt that, had we penetrated a little farther into the interior, or had

we remained here a day or two longer, we should have been rewarded by an

ample supply, the traces that we observed being both numerous and

recent.

From tidal observations made during our brief stay in this harbour, we

found that the flood tide in Hayes Sound came from the eastward, but

that the ebb coming from the westward was the strongest. Whether Hayes

Sound was a strait opening out to the westward or only a deep inlet was,

and remains, a matter of uncertainty.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] The fact of one of these spear-heads being tipped with iron,

although they all bear the semblance of great age, would lead one to

suppose that the tribe by whom it was left must have had some

intercourse with Europeans, unless meteoric iron was used. This would

be a very interesting question to decide.

CHAPTER VI.

STRUGGLES WITH THE ICE.

"On those great waters now I am,

Of which I have been told,

That whosoever hither came

Should wonders there behold.

"Trim thou the sails, and let good speed

Accompany our haste;

Sound thou the channels at our need,

And anchor for us cast.

"A fit and favourable wind

To further us provide,

And let it wait on us behind,

Or lackey by our side."

GEORGE WITHER.

The morning following our arrival in Alexandra Harbour saw us again

battling with the ice in Hayes Sound, having been deluded into leaving

our comfortable snug quarters by the report that the pack had drifted to

the eastward, leaving a navigable channel extending to the north. The

report was fallacious, but we succeeded in threading our way to the N.W.

for about twenty miles, when both ships were helplessly beset, with but

little hope of extrication without a shift of wind.

Many broad glaciers were in view, winding their long white snaky

lengths between the hills, some of which could be traced into the

interior for ten or twelve miles, or until lost in illimitable space.

In twenty-four hours, the ice slackening enabled us to bore a way

through, eventually emerging into a broad stream of water. How sudden

and wonderful are the changes in these regions! From being closely

beset, a couple of hours saw us in an apparently open sea with _no ice_

in sight, and bowling along before a fresh southerly gale at the rate of

seven knots. Social barometer very high! In the morning not a spoonful

of water to be seen in any direction, in the evening not a vestige of

ice!

Passing close to the western shore we were able to confirm our views

regarding the Henry and Bache Islands of Hayes. They are undoubtedly

connected, and therefore not islands; but whether they were also

connected with the mainland we were not able to determine. In all

probability the supposed islands are a peninsula, apparently of

sandstone formation overlying trap, different to the granitic formation

of the southern shore of the strait. The land appeared quite bare of

vegetation, and bore a strong resemblance to the Silurian limestone

formation of the land about Prince Regent Inlet, showing stratifications

dipping to the northward at an angle of about 6°.

It does not do to indulge too freely in vain hopes in these regions. A

period of eight hours was sufficient to cause our hopeful anticipations

of a grand run to the northward to be "considerably eased down;" for in

that time we were again stopped by the ice, and compelled to make fast

to a floe, until the pack opened sufficiently to allow us to proceed.

During the run we passed some very heavy floes--heavier than anything

we had hitherto met, and quite sufficient in themselves to crush any

unfortunate ship that should happen to get nipped between two of them.

Off Albert Head great excitement was caused by the floe, to which both

ships were secured, being driven towards a large grounded iceberg. To be

squeezed between the two would be fatal. Our destruction seemed

inevitable. Yet we on board were helpless to avert the catastrophe. All

that we could do was to prepare for a severe nip: unship the rudder, and

lift the screw, and having taken every precaution to ensure the safety

of the crew, in the event of the ship's demolition, we could only look

on, and in silence witness, as we thought, the irresistible and

destroying powers of the Ice-King.

The "Discovery" was at first in the most critical position, but a slight

swerving of the floe relieved her from any immediate danger, whilst the

same movement of the ice intensified our own.

Nearer and more swiftly were we hurried towards the grim and motionless

berg, up whose sides the floe, as it came into contact with it, was seen

to be literally walking and forcing its way, crumbling and falling into

shapeless masses at its base.

Escape appeared impossible. It seemed hard at the very commencement of

our voyage thus to lose our ship, and with it all hopes of success.

Suddenly, when our fate seemed almost decided, the berg turned slightly,

splitting up the floe to which we were secured and sending us clear. It

was a narrow shave, and although we suffered a slight nip, no material

damage was sustained.

Being myself too fully occupied with the work on deck, one of my

messmates kindly packed a few of my valuables together, ready to take

away in case of having to abandon the ship. On going below after the

ship had been secured, I found carefully packed in a haversack my

journals, Bible and Prayer-Book, a few photographs, and three boxes of

sardines!

It must not be supposed that we passed in idleness those days that we

were beset in the ice and unable to advance. As a rule our time was more

fully occupied then than when we had leads of water in which we could

proceed. Steam had to be kept ready for any sudden emergency, and a

constant watch had to be kept on every movement of the pack. Frequently

had the ice anchors to be tripped and the vessel moved, in order to

avoid bergs or floes closing in upon and nipping us. Occasionally, when

the pack opened, or appeared what we called "slack," we would attempt to

bore through; but as this invariably entailed a large consumption of

fuel, and gave very little result, it was not resorted to more than was

absolutely necessary. Every opening in the ice was taken advantage of,

by which we slowly but surely made progress northwards.

The crow's-nest was never deserted. In it Captain Nares might almost be

said to live, rarely coming on deck even for his meals; as for a night's

rest, such a thing to him was quite unknown. From the "nest" the motions

of the ice were closely scrutinized, the tides and currents were

studied, and the influence of the wind on the pack ascertained. No

opportunity was ever lost, and it was entirely due to this unceasing

watchfulness that the expedition succeeded in advancing, although it was

only inch by inch.

Victoria Head was reached on the morning of the 8th of August, but at

the expense of damaged rudder-heads to both ships, caused by the

constant backing into the ice whilst engaged in charging and breaking

through slight streams that offered impediments to our advance. A

detention here enabled us to pay the shore a visit. Great difficulty was

experienced in landing on account of the ice-foot adhering to the land,

which resembled a perpendicular frozen wall rising to the height of

about twelve feet. Indeed it was more overhanging than perpendicular, as

the action of the water had considerably undermined its base and

therefore rendered it almost inaccessible. By the aid of a long

boat-hook staff and some rope we succeeded in clambering up, at the

expense of bruised hands, the jagged surface of the ice cutting like

penknives. This proceeding was not unattended by a certain amount of

danger, for had the ice given way we should have been precipitated into

the boat, in which case we should have been extremely lucky to have

escaped without a fractured bone or limb.

The loose and rugged slabs of slaty limestone of which the hills were

composed made the walking very arduous, added to which a thick fog and

snowstorm that overtook us rendered our climb unprofitable so far as

ascertaining the nature of the ice to seaward and the prospect of

pushing on were concerned. The steep cliffs surrounding this prominent

headland are wasted and worn by the combined effects of snow and

weather, and present the same "battlemented" appearance so common to the

Silurian limestone formation of the cliffs about Prince Regent Inlet and

Lancaster Sound. A few fossils were collected, but, with the exception

of some sprigs of the stunted willow and a single tuft of saxifrage,

the land was devoid of all vegetation. Deep ravines stretched away into

the interior, entirely free from both snow and ice. Traces of former

inhabitants were discovered along the beach, consisting of the site of

an Eskimo settlement and a few small cairns or fox-traps.

Hitherto the traces of these interesting tribes have been continuous

along the western side of Smith Sound, and tend, in my opinion, to prove

conclusively that the Eskimos were in former days far more numerous than

they are at the present time. What has become of them? The solution of

this important ethnological question would be of the greatest interest.

Have they gradually died out? or have they migrated farther south, and

are now represented by the "Arctic Highlanders," and by tribes settled

on both sides of Lancaster Sound who are frequently visited by our

whalers?

It is certain that at some remote time there was a movement of Eskimo

tribes from Asia towards Greenland in these high latitudes, for traces

of their encampments have been found along the shores of the Parry group

from Melville Island to Lancaster Sound, where they are still living in

Dundas Harbour and in Admiralty Inlet. The late Admiral Sherard Osborn

and my cousin, Mr. Clements Markham, paid great attention to this

subject during the Arctic Expedition of 1850-51, and prepared a

descriptive list of all the Eskimo vestiges along the whole length of

the Parry group.[1] We now traced similar remains up the western side

of the channels leading north from Smith Sound, at Cape Sabine, on the

shores of Buchanan Strait, on Norman Lockyer Island, on Capes Hilgard,

Louis Napoleon, Hayes, and Fraser, at Radmore Harbour, and Bellot

Island. The most northern point where human remains were discovered was

at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N. Here our naturalist found the framework

of a large wooden sledge, a stone lamp, and a snow scraper made of

walrus tusk. Beyond this point there was no sign of any human being

having preceded us. This is the utmost northern known limit of Eskimo

wandering, and here they appear to have crossed the strait, and to have

made their way southward on the Greenland side. The most northern

permanent human habitation in the world is now at Etah, near Port

Foulke, and, under present climatic conditions, it would be impossible

even for the Etah Eskimo to exist at Cape Beechey, in 81° 54´ N.,

whither their ancestors must have wandered in remote times. There is

much yet to learn respecting these marvellous wanderings along the

Arctic shores; and our expedition has certainly thrown considerable new

light on the question. We have fixed the most northern limit of the

Eskimo migrations, and have established the fact that they did not come

from the north down Smith Sound, but merely wandered round its shores

until the palæocrystic floes in Robeson Channel made them despair of

finding there the means of supporting life. We have also proved that the

people seen by Captain Clavering on the east coast of Greenland in 1823

could not have come round its northern extreme, but that they had found

their way to the neighbourhood of the Pendulum Islands from Cape

Farewell. They are useful contributions towards the final solution of a

very important ethnological question, which, however, cannot be fully

and conclusively settled until all the unknown parts of the Polar area

have been explored.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] See the "Selection of Papers on Arctic Geography and Ethnology,"

printed for the use of the Expedition by the Royal Geographical

Society, p. 163.

CHAPTER VII.

WALRUS HUNT.--DOG DRIVING.

"So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost,

Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast;

Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away,

And on the impassive ice the lightnings play;

Eternal snows the growing mass supply,

Till the bright mountains prop the incumbent sky:

As Atlas fixed, each hoary pile appears,

The gathered winter of a thousand years."

POPE.

During the remainder of the navigable season, I propose to present the

narrative of the voyage in the form of a diary, giving the extracts as

they were written down at the time, when the events they record were

fresh in my memory.

_Sunday, August 8th._--Snow fell very heavily during the forenoon,

completely covering the surrounding hills, and lying several inches deep

on our deck. Clearing up in the afternoon we found ourselves completely

beset by the ice and drifting shorewards. Steam was resorted to and

every effort made to reach a narrow lane of water, only a hundred yards

distant, but without success. At four o'clock the ship experienced a

slight nip, the ice piling up as high as our main chains, but

fortunately for us it was of too soft a nature to do much damage. Half

an hour afterwards the nip eased and the pack commenced to open, showing

broad lanes of water. This sudden slackening of the ice was due to the

total cessation of wind. We soon extricated ourselves from our

unpleasant situation, and lay in eager readiness to take advantage of

any opportunity of advancing that might offer itself.

11.30 P.M.--The ways of ice are indeed inscrutable! Five hours ago

Grinnell Land loomed in the distance, and we had little prospect of

reaching it for some time. Now we are actually made fast to the land-ice

in Franklin Pierce Bay on the southern shore of Grinnell Land!

We esteem ourselves particularly fortunate in having reached thus far.

Cape Fraser is not far distant, and this appears to be our Rubicon. Once

passed, fewer difficulties are anticipated. We may very fairly reason

that to the northward of this promontory will be found a "North Water"

similar to the one north of Baffin Bay, the ice remaining in the broad

part of Smith Sound like the middle pack in Baffin Bay and Davis

Straits.

In the latitude of Cape Fraser Kane reported what he called an open

Polar Sea, Hayes the same, whilst the "Polaris" actually navigated for

some distance this "North Water." Why-should we find it different?

The ice opened this afternoon in a miraculous manner, in one long lead

from land to land, sufficiently wide for us to pass through; and then,

as if it had opened expressly for us, closed again, and with such

rapidity that our consort, who was following in our wake, having lagged

a little behind, was caught and remained beset for some time;

eventually, however, boring through and rejoining us.

_August 9th._--We succeeded this morning in pushing on for three or four

miles, when, being completely stopped by the ice, we were again

compelled to make fast. In consequence of the heavy fall of snow

yesterday, the surface of the water was coated with a soft sludgy

substance, half ice and half snow, which greatly impeded our progress.

The statement made by Dr. Hayes in his interesting work, that "along the

entire coast of Grinnell Land no glacier appears," is slightly

inaccurate; for at the head of Franklin Pierce Bay two tolerably large

glaciers are situated, whilst another was seen a few miles to the

westward on the same coast. Doubtless Dr. Hayes intended to say

_discharging_ glaciers, in which case he would, I think, be nearly

correct.

For three days were we detained, without the ice allowing us the

slightest chance of moving, during which time a complete series of

magnetic observations was obtained on the floe, the inclination of the

needle being as much as 85° 34´. Both the dredge and trawl were also put

into requisition and with good results. Amongst the many zoological

curiosities brought to the surface, from a depth of fifteen fathoms,

were some crinoids. These echinoderms are very rare, few specimens

having been met with, until the deep-sea dredgings of the "Challenger"

brought them more into notice.

A small island, since called Norman Lockyer Island after the

distinguished astronomer of that name, was visited, and its highest

eminence ascended for the purpose of watching the movements of the pack.

Landing on the ice-foot that fringed the shore, we stepped on to a long

shaly beach that rose in well-defined and regular terraces to at least

two hundred feet above the level of the sea, showing the different tidal

marks, and illustrating clearly the gradual upheaval of the land.

Numerous traces of Eskimo were discovered on this small and remote

island, consisting of the sites of several encampments, and a bone

harpoon point, all apparently of very ancient date. The highest part of

the island is from five to six hundred feet above the sea. It is of

limestone formation, and on several of the rocks, especially those at

its summit, distinct glacial marks were detected. Vegetation was scanty,

although here and there the poppy, saxifrage, and willow could be seen

cropping up between the stones.

Here too we succeeded in harpooning a couple of walruses. Three of these

large animals were observed on a piece of ice, their large ungainly

forms stretched out, lazily enjoying their _siesta_. Volunteers were not

wanting for the purpose of attempting their capture; but as an

indiscriminate attack would only lead to failure, it was determined to

despatch one of the whale boats, specially fitted with a harpoon gun,

and all the necessary implements and gear for securing these animals, in

order to effect in a more organized and skilful manner the object we had

in view.

Great difficulty was experienced in approaching our prey, as the boat

had to be hauled over loose fragments of ice, and pushed through a

sludgy consistency of soft ice, snow, and water, in which the oars were

useless; so that it was feared the unavoidable noise would disturb and

frighten them away. At length, after much trouble and no little

exertion, we succeeded in getting within about eight yards, so sound

was their repose, without exciting any suspicion in their minds that

danger was lurking in their vicinity. At that distance, however, they

evinced a degree of restlessness, by lifting their shaggy heads and

uttering jerky spasmodic snorts, that showed us only too plainly a

retreat was meditated.

[Illustration: WALRUSES.]

Selecting the largest of the three as his victim, our harpooner

carefully laid his gun. A moment of breathless suspense followed, to be

relieved by the report of the gun, a roar of pain and rage, and the

disappearance in the water of the three walruses, while the piece of

ice, on which a moment before they had been reposing, was covered with

blood, convincing us that our shaft had taken effect. If any further

proof was required in corroboration of this fact, a tugging at the line

and the sudden moving of the boat was sufficient. Lances and rifles were

quickly seized; for these animals, when wounded and maddened by pain,

are ugly and dangerous customers, and have frequently been known to rip

the planks out of a boat with their formidable tusks, and thus

seriously endanger the lives of the crew. We had not long to wait; a

disturbance in the water close alongside denoted that our victim was

coming to the surface. An instant after, his bearded face with every

expression of infuriated rage and demoniacal hate, his fiery eyes

glaring with vengeance, appeared, and was immediately saluted with two

or three rifle bullets. This warm reception served only to incense and

irritate him, and he tried hard to wreak his vengeance on the boat; but

his enemies were too powerful, and with the united aid of bullets and

lance thrusts the unwieldy beast was forced to succumb to the superior

power of his human antagonists. Towing the great carcase back to the

ship, it was hauled up on the floe, and quickly _flinched_.[1] The

blubber and flesh were packed in barrels, making a very welcome addition

to the small amount of food that we had on board for our dogs.

Another walrus was harpooned on the following day, and these were the

only two captured by the expedition during their stay in the Arctic

regions. Walrus steaks, from this date, were for some time in great

demand, whilst the liver was pronounced to be perfectly excellent, and

even superior to pig's fry!

As a rule these animals are exceedingly difficult to kill, for in

addition to their enormously thick skulls and coating of almost

impenetrable skin and blubber, they are excessively tenacious of life. A

rifle bullet, although a walrus may eventually die of the wound, is more

than useless, as it will effectually scare him away, and thus all chance

of securing him is lost. The only sure way of succeeding in their

capture is by the use of the harpoon, and this weapon of course is only

available at short distances.

During the temporary delays of the ships in the ice, amusement was not

forgotten, and we often had rare fun. It is a very important point in an

Arctic expedition to keep the men constantly employed and interested,

otherwise they would, more especially when their onward progress was

checked, be subject to gloomy moods and fits of despondency. Care,

therefore, should be taken to guard against these feelings.

Amongst the numerous games purchased by the expedition before leaving

England was a football, which, on occasions of this sort and when the

ice would admit of it, would be produced, and a game kept up with great

spirit, though with an utter disregard of all orthodox rules. So long as

Jack got his kick, no matter in which direction the ball was propelled,

he was satisfied! Officers and men would alike mingle in the game, every

one determined to carry out the one grand object, namely, that of

enjoying themselves. Skating and sliding on the ice were also

accomplishments that afforded much pleasure and amusement, and were

freely indulged in by all, irrespective of age or rank. Sometimes our

Eskimo dogs would be taken out on the floe and harnessed to an empty

sledge, whilst some would-be dog driver, anxious to attain proficiency

as a whip, would make a start, and be seen tearing round the floe,

regardless of weak ice and pools of water, at the rate of ten miles an

hour, returning on board thoroughly drenched, but happy in the knowledge

that he had succeeded as a dog driver.

Perhaps a few words here in connection with the dogs would not be out of

place. As I have before stated, they lived almost entirely in the fore

part of the vessel, and were consequently especial favourites with the

men, by whom they were fed and greatly petted. Of course they were all

named, their appellations being more characteristic than euphonious.

They rejoiced in such names as Ginger, so called on account of his

colour; Bruin, because he was minus a tail, having been deprived of this

appendage in his youthful days; Boss-eye, on account of the obliquity of

his vision, or as our men expressed it, because "his eyes were rove

cross-jack brace fashion;" Sore-sides, in consequence of the unfortunate

dog when it came on board suffering from an unhealed wound in its side.

Sallie, Topsy, Sly-boots, Jessie, etc., were the names of others.

The only English dog in the expedition was my black retriever Nellie, an

old shipmate and companion, who took no pains to conceal her displeasure

and disgust at the introduction of such, in her estimation, a rough and

rowdy pack; nor was she ever afterwards induced to cultivate their

acquaintance. As she lived in the after part of the ship, she viewed

with a jealous eye any attempts on the part of the Eskimo dogs to

intrude on what she regarded as her own domain, and would invariably fly

at and drive them forward.

Shortly after their appearance on board, and long before they had been

used for sledging purposes, a species of rabies, or dog madness, broke

out amongst them, which very quickly and alarmingly thinned their

number. The first symptom of this disease would generally be the dog

falling down in a fit, from which it would partially recover only to

rush about in a frantic manner as if totally deprived of all sense and

feeling. On some occasions they would rush into the water and be

drowned, and at other times wander away from the ship to be no more

seen; sometimes their sufferings would terminate in death, whilst at

other times they would be shot in order to release the poor things from

their pain.

All expeditions have experienced the same kind of disease and mortality

amongst their dogs, for which there has hitherto been no remedy. It is a

curious fact that hydrophobia is unknown among the Eskimo, and no man

bitten by one of these dogs during a mad fit has ever suffered permanent

injury from its effects. Frequently whilst employed sledging, they have

been attacked by violent fits, resembling cramp, completely prostrating

them, causing them to roll over on their sides and foam at the mouth. On

these occasions they would be freed from the sledge, which after a time

they would follow, when they would be reharnessed and proceed as if

nothing had occurred.

Dr. Colan devoted much of his time to the investigation of the nature

and causes of this disease, and I have no doubt his researches will

throw a flood of light over this matter that will prove of the greatest

value to succeeding expeditions in the preservation of their dogs, and

be the means of baffling the attacks of this insidious disease.

The dogs when employed in dragging a sledge are always harnessed in line

abreast, and never, as generally supposed, ahead of each other in tandem

fashion.

From six to ten or a dozen dogs form a team. They are capable of

dragging as much as one hundred and fifty pounds per dog; but this is

rather an excessive load and should not be exacted for any length of

time. So strong and enduring are they that they will frequently perform

a journey, over smooth ice, of twenty-five or thirty miles a day with

this load; but with light loads and level ice they have been known to

travel as much as seventy and even a hundred miles in one day.

There is something very exhilarating and exciting about dog sledging, so

long as the weather is fine, temperature not too low, smooth level ice

to travel over, and a light sledge to drag. But let all these various

conditions be reversed, let the weather be thick and foggy, or a gale of

wind blowing with a blinding snow-drift, a temperature of 50° below

zero, rough hummocky ice to travel over, and a heavily laden sledge to

be dragged by a tired and obstinate team, then dog sledging cannot be

regarded as either a comfortable or desirable amusement.

The sensation of dashing along on a light sledge at the rate of ten

miles an hour, the fine snow flying into one's face as the dogs tear

through it pell-mell in their headlong career, or perhaps plunging down

the side of a steep ravine when the utmost caution is required to

prevent the sledge from capsizing and toppling over on the top of the

dogs, is both novel and delightful. But when obstacles such as hummocks

and deep snow-drifts have to be encountered, especially with a low

temperature, the reverse is the case. Directly the sledge receives the

slightest check from either of these causes, the dogs lie down, and look

at you in the most provoking manner. It is no use having recourse to the

whip, for not all the flogging in the world will make them advance until

the obstacle has been removed, or the sledge carried over the

difficulties that had retarded its progress.

The whip is the main feature in dog driving. To be a good driver it is

therefore necessary to use this implement in a dexterous manner. The

lash is a thong of sealskin about eighteen or twenty feet long, attached

to a short handle of about twelve inches in length. It is, in the hands

of an experienced driver, a formidable weapon, the punishment that the

dogs receive from it being often very severe. They are guided solely by

it, and it is amusing to witness the cunning and intelligence displayed

by the outside dogs, who invariably get more than their fair share of

the lash, in dodging under the lines of the others and emerging

somewhere in the midst of the team in order to escape from its terrible

infliction. Another very annoying and distressing piece of work

connected with dog sledging is clearing the lines, which in a short time

become in a grievously entangled state from the constant dodging about

of the dogs, and this it must be remembered has to be done with hands

encased in thick woollen mitts, for to bare them would ensure serious

frost-bites. In consequence of the amount of provisions that have of

necessity to be carried for the use of the dogs, it is almost impossible

to use them for long journeys. None were employed during the expedition

by any of the extended sledge parties; but for short journeys, or when

dispatch was required, they were invaluable.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] "Flinching" is a whaling term for cutting up a whale or walrus.

CHAPTER VIII.

SLOW PROGRESS THROUGH THE ICE.

"He rose, the coast and country to survey,

Anxious and eager to discover more.

It looked a wild uncultivated shore,

But whether human kind or beast alone

Possessed the new-found region was unknown."

VIRGIL.

_Thursday, August 12th._--Early this morning, the floes opening

slightly, an attempt was made to proceed; but it was a futile one, the

ice remaining perfectly impenetrable. This delay is naturally causing

anxiety, as our fuel is rapidly disappearing, from the constant demand

for steam, and the navigable season is also as rapidly waning, young ice

forming alongside the ship nearly an inch in thickness. Patience,

combined with caution and perseverance, is an indispensable

qualification for an Arctic navigator. At the same time he must be

prepared, when occasion offers, to make a bold dash. Quick determination

and an ever-ready eye to seize upon any available opportunity are also

necessary attributes of the explorer who hopes to achieve success in ice

navigation. Without them failure is inevitable.

In the forenoon both ships were slightly nipped. We succeeded in

unshipping our rudder in time; but the "Discovery," receiving the

squeeze more astern, had her rudder very severely injured. She was

enabled, however, to patch it up sufficiently for temporary use and thus

avoid the necessity of shifting it. In the afternoon the ice began to

move to the eastward, enabling us once more to make a start. Hastily

shipping our rudders we got under weigh, and having bored through a few

streams of ice emerged into a fine lead of water extending between the

land and the pack. Passing Cape D'Urville, we opened a large inlet. At

its head was a deep ravine, containing two large glaciers which, running

respectively from N.E. and N.W., met and formed one terminal face. At 9

P.M. the southern extreme of Dobbin Bay, called Cape Hawks, was passed.

This is a magnificent promontory, which has, with some propriety, been

compared, in appearance, to the Rock of Gibraltar.

It was a beautifully calm night as both ships silently rounded this bold

headland, the water so still and unruffled that it was actually used as

an artificial horizon for the purpose of taking an astronomical

observation. The Cape itself towered over our heads as we steamed past,

its reflection in the still quiet water being clearly visible, whilst

deep ravines on either side stretched away apparently for miles into the

interior, until lost amid the snow-shining mountains in the far

distance. A large glacier at the head of the bay showed out prominently

as it glistened in the light of a bright midnight sun, the bay itself

being covered with an icy sheet, broken only by a few long low bergs,

generated, in all probability, from the selfsame glacier. The few clouds

that were visible in the almost cloudless sky presented an exquisite

iridescence rarely witnessed, exhibiting clearly defined bright

colours, extending in bands in a horizontal direction, the reflection

of which in the clear pellucid water materially enhanced the beauties of

the landscape. Such a scene, with all its surroundings, could scarcely

be equalled in beauty, certainly not surpassed, even in sunny Italy.

[Illustration: CAPE HAWKS.]

Making the ships fast to an iceberg, preparations for landing a large

depôt of provisions, similar to the one established at the Cary Islands,

were immediately commenced. A jolly-boat, obtained from the "Valorous,"

was also deposited here. We have now two large depôts, besides boats,

established in our rear, sufficient to sustain a large party for many

days, should any untoward accident befall our ship.

Whilst engaged in these operations, an adjacent island--Washington

Irving Island--was visited, and a large cairn erected on its summit. Our

surprise may be imagined when, on reaching the top, the remains of an

old cairn were discovered. At first its origin was attributed to Hayes,

who visited the island in 1860, but on closer inspection evidences of a

construction at a much earlier date were palpable, the stones of which

it was composed being covered with lichen, denoting great age. Hayes, in

the published account of his voyage, makes no mention either of having

seen this cairn or of having built one on the island. It was,

undoubtedly, the work of white men's hands; the object and necessity for

building cairns is unknown, and therefore not practised, by the Eskimos.

How then came this structure in such a remote and desolate part of the

world? Can it be the work of some obscure navigator of years gone by,

who erected this monument as a memento of his visit, but who never

returned to relate the results of his adventurous voyage? This must for

ever remain a mystery!

Of course it was quickly demolished and its site subjected to a very

careful search, in the hopes of discovering some record or clue by which

its history might be ascertained; but nothing was found, and we were

forced to content ourselves with reconstructing it on a larger scale,

and depositing a record at its base detailing the movements of the

expedition.

The depôt having been landed, the ships were moved a little farther up

the bay, although, to effect this, we were compelled to have recourse to

powder, in order to "blast" a passage through the ice. The recent

tracks of a bear were observed on the floe, being the only indications

of the presence of these animals that we had observed since leaving

Melville Bay. It naturally caused a little excitement amongst our

sportsmen and would-be bear slayers.