CHAPTER VIII.

EMBARKATION FROM DETROIT, &c.

On the 4th of August the steam-packet, _Sheldon Thomson_, left Detroit

for the Upper Lakes, her ultimate destination being Green Bay, with

the United States’ Commissioners, bound on the errand heretofore

alluded to, and which we shall notice again by-and-by;--three companies

of troops for the frontier garrisons;--several parties of ladies

and gentlemen; some in pursuit of pleasure, some of materials for

science and literature; some of business; some families returning, or

emigrating to those new and remote settlements;--with pigs, poultry,

&c. &c. As near as we recollect, the number of souls on board,

including troops, commissioners and suite, ladies and gentlemen, and

the crew--was not far from _two hundred and fifty_.

The rarity of this expedition gave it some importance. The character

of the company, but especially the objects of the mission from

Government to the Indians of the North-West, magnified the interest

not inconsiderably. It is true there is some sailing craft habitually

employed in this line of navigation. It is also true, that one of the

steam-packets of Lake Erie, ordinarily makes a trip into those remote

regions, some two or three times in a season; as encouragements offer.

But Detroit is reckoned the common limit of the crowd, who flock to the

west in the summer; and a trip beyond is quite notable, and esteemed

a great treat with the curious, and with all who have a taste for

novel, wild, and romantic scenery; or an ambition to see that which is

seldom seen by the common herd of travellers. It is confessed, that an

expedition to the North Pole, is somewhat more important to the persons

concerned;--and if they have the good luck to get back again, it may be

more important to the world. If Captain Symmes had lived to accomplish

his expedition to the centre of the earth, that would at least have

been more interesting. It is possible, it may not yet be understood,

all the world over, that the earth is hollow, and to be entered by a

passage towards the imaginary poles; the polar points being themselves

of course in the celestial regions, and therefore unattainable to man.

This important discovery was made by the above-named Captain Symmes,

of Ohio, United States.

It is not pretended, that the particular expedition, which makes the

subject of our story, can claim a paramount importance, with either of

those just alluded to. But still it attracted considerable attention.

All the newspapers of the country--at least very extensively--announced

it long beforehand;--that is--the proprietors of the steam-packet took

care to put it in circulation, for the greater profit of the voyage,

by attracting the attention of the curious, and offering motive to the

enterprising. It was by this sort of newspaper puffing, that the author

was drawn into the train; as was the fact with a great portion of the

company.

On the morning of the 4th of August, the city of Detroit was in no

little bustle, and the wharf, along-side of which lay the _Sheldon

Thomson_, with her signals snapping in the wind, exhibited a most busy

swarm of human beings, running to and fro, in the way of preparation.

At _eleven_ o’clock A. M. the gun was fired, and the packet bore away

for Lake St. Clair, under all the force of wind and steam, and with

as fine a day, as the sun ever made upon the earth. Indeed the scene

and the occasion were quite inspiriting; and the objects in view wore

the aspect of many powerful and romantic attractions. The beautiful

city of Detroit began to recede, while the packet, borne along between

the Canadian shore and Hog Island, (a name, it must be confessed, ill

deserved by a thing so beautiful) glided in fine style into the opening

expanse of Lake St. Clair.

Lake St. Clair, as before recognized, is an expansion of the strait,

nearly in a circular form, with a diameter of thirty miles; and in

consequence of the depression of all its shores, and there being

no hills in the immediate interior, the position of a vessel in

any part of its border, opens from the deck a shoreless sea in the

distant prospect. The centre of the lake presents a beautiful and

enchanting _looming up_ of the shores, as the sailors call it, in all

directions; and the marginal forests, broken every here and there, by

the indentations of the coast, seem to hang suspended in the horizon,

between the sea and the heavens, and play and dance before the eye, in

a sort of fairy vision. The images of this kind, fore and aft, and on

either side, were continually changing their forms, and showing the

most fantastic shapes, as the vessel wended her serpentine course,

by the channel through the lake, from its southern to its northern

border. For Lake St. Clair is an exception to all the others, in this

particular: that its waters are generally shallow, except in the

channel; and that channel is perpetually changing by the effect of

storms, and requires a frequent survey for the direction of the pilot.

Indeed this body of water is hardly worthy to be dignified with the

name of a _Lake_, in comparison of the others, and might as well be

considered, as a flooding of low lands--which seems to be the exact

truth. The main current of water through it, however, always maintains

a channel, sufficient for all the purposes of navigation, though it is

somewhat devious.

The passage over Lake St. Clair, in a day of such unrivalled physical

glories, in such a company, on such an expedition, leaving the regions

of civilization behind us, and just about to plunge into the regions

of barbarism;--or rather, flying from a world, violated by the track

and by the hand of man, into a world of virgin waters and into a virgin

wilderness--all vast, and their proper character inconceivable, except

by actual inspection; such a passage might well make an apology for the

indulgence of some trifling ingredients of poetry and romance. Every

heart seemed light and buoyant, as the clouds floating in the sky, and

its affections active, as the elements by which the bark, which made

their home, was wafted along;--and all prospects bright and cheering,

as the sun, which shone upon the scene. The climate and aspects of the

heavens seemed changed. The clouds, such, as a clear atmosphere and

its brisk currents fold together in their fleecy robes, and toss along

in sublime and majestic sport;--the shores and islets successively

receding in one direction, and coming into view from another;--a new

and fine steamer, dashing through the waves, with all her sails set

to the breeze, and crammed with a population, like bees upon the

hive, in a summer’s day, all life and bustle;--the _toute ensemble_

presented a scene, as picturesque, as could well be grouped, under a

traveller’s eye. And then again the variety of character on board:

three detachments of raw recruits, bidding adieu to the common world,

and going to occupy the frontier posts, to keep the peace between the

traders and Indians, between the Indians themselves, and if needs be,

between the querulous parties of Canadians and Americans, strolling

in those regions;--a Commission from Government, on their way to

settle disputes and negotiate treaties with the aboriginal tribes of

the North-West;--traders, voyagers of pleasure and observation, and

friends going to visit friends, in those distant retreats;--a vicar

general from the pope of Rome, with plenipotentiary powers of remission

and retention in things spiritual, and of supervising the interests

of the Catholic church; together with two Protestant clergymen and a

missionary of Mackinaw;--men, women, and children of all grades, and

all conditions--and withal the rare character of the excursion;--all

these things together, as might be supposed, contributed to lend an

interest and a charm to the expedition, so auspiciously commenced, not

easily conceived by any one, who did not make one of the party.

About four o’clock, P.M., we found ourselves; hard upon what may be

called, with the greatest propriety, the _Delta_ of the river St.

Clair, which discharges itself by about _fifty_ mouths into the lake

of the same name. The principal navigable channels are _five_. The

extended marshes, challenging the utmost scope of the eye, lying

only a few inches higher than the water, and all waving with heavy

burdens of high _prairie_ grass;--the meandering mouths of the river,

shooting in every direction, and insulating the region in the most

fantastic forms;--the thick and impenetrable copses of wood, of larger

and smaller extent, springing up here and there, in all their various

shapes, until after a few miles they are merged in one unbroken

forest, and seeming to vie with the outlets of the river in creating

a variety of their own peculiar kind;--these several and combined

features, changing their forms continually, as we ascended the channel

selected, like the coming and flitting visions of creative fancy,

might almost dispossess a sober man of his senses, and persuade him,

by a world of reality, that he was in a world of illusions. And then

to see the French huts--for the French are to be found, scattered

along the old line of trading posts, from Quebec to Detroit, from

Detroit to Mackinaw, at the head of Lake Huron, from Mackinaw across

the North-West Territory to _Prairie du Chien_, on the Mississippi;

and from the last point along the banks of that mighty river, to the

Gulf of Mexico--to look upon the habitations of that indolent race,

so mean and sordid, as they are, resting upon the river’s brink, and

demonstrating by their every feature a dull and lazy existence, akin

to that of the savage;--and now and then to see a group of Indians,

old and young, male and female, some entirely naked, and others with

the rag of a shirt, or blanket never washed, pendant and ready to

drop by its rottenness from their shoulders--darting out of a thicket

upon the bank, and running and jumping with frantic, or joyous signs

and exclamations of amazement, to see such a great _canoe_, so full

of people, and rushing up against the tide, drawn, as they imagine,

by great sturgeons, harnessed under water;--we a wonder to them and

they a very piece of romance to us;--who, fresh from the centre of

civilization, and unaccustomed to these scenes, would not gaze with

interest, and imagine himself dreaming?--

Tour of the American Lakes, and Among the Indians of the North-West Territory, in 1830, Volume 1 (of 2) Disclosing the Character and Prospects of the Indian Race · 第 8 / 23 章