CHAPTER XV.

OTHER ICE CAVES.

_The Cave of Szelicze, or Szilitze, in Hungary_.[98]

Matthew Bell, the historian of Hungary, sent an account of this cavern

to England, in the middle of the last century, which was printed in the

original Latin in the 'Philosophical Transactions' of 1739-40 (pp. 41,

&c.).

This account states that the cave is in the county of Thorn,[99] among

the lowest spurs of the Carpathians. The entrance, which faces the

north, and is exposed to the cold winds from the snowy part of the

Carpathian range, is 18 fathoms high and 9 broad; and the cave spreads

out laterally, and descends to a point 50 fathoms below the entrance,

where it is 26 fathoms in breadth, and of irregular height. Beyond this

no one had at that time penetrated, on account of the unsafe footing,

although many distant echoes were returned by the farther recesses of

the cave; indeed, to get even so far as this, much step-cutting was

necessary.

When the external frost of winter comes on, the account proceeds, the

effect in the cave is the same as if fires had been lighted there: the

ice melts, and swarms of flies and bats and hares take refuge in the

interior from the severity of the winter. As soon as spring arrives, the

warmth of winter disappears from the interior, water exudes from the

roof and is converted into ice, while the more abundant supplies which

pour down on to the sandy floor are speedily frozen there. In the

Dog-days, the frost is so intense that a small icicle becomes in one day

a huge mass of ice; but a cool day promptly brings a thaw, and the cave

is looked upon as a barometer, not merely feeling, but also presaging,

the changes of weather. The people of the neighbourhood, when employed

in field-work, arrange their labour so that the mid-day meal may be

taken near the cave, when they either ice the water they have brought

with them, or drink the melted ice, which they consider very good for

the stomach. It had been calculated that 600 weekly carts would not be

sufficient to keep the cavern free from ice. The ground above the cave

is peculiarly rich in grass.

In explanation of these phenomena, Bell threw out the following

suggestions, which need no comment. The earth being of itself cold and

damp, the external heat of the atmosphere, by partially penetrating into

the ground, drives in this native cold to the inner parts of the earth,

and makes the cold there more dense. On the other hand, when the

external air is cold, it draws forth towards the surface the heat there

may be in the inner part of the earth, and thus makes caverns warm. In

support and illustration of this view, he states that in the hotter

parts of Hungary, when the people wish to cool their wine, they dig a

hole 2 feet deep, and place in it the flagon of wine, and, after filling

up the hole again, light a blazing fire upon the surface, which cools

the wine as if the flagon had been laid in ice. He also suggests that

possibly the cold winds from the Carpathians bring with them

imperceptible particles of snow, which reach the water of the cave, and

convert it into ice. Further, the rocks of the Carpathians abound in

salts, nitre, alum, &c., which may, perhaps, mingle with such snowy

particles, and produce the ordinary effect of the snow and salt in the

artificial production of ice.

Townson[100] visited this cave half a century later, and concluded that

Bell was in error with regard to the supposed winter thaw and summer

frost, although he himself received information at Kaschau which

corroborated the earlier account. He describes the approach to the

village of Szilitze as leading by a by-road through a pleasant country

of woods and hills, with much pasture-land, the cave lying a mile beyond

the village, and displaying an entrance 100 feet broad, and 20 or 30

feet high, turned towards the north. The descent of the floor of the

cave is rapid, and was covered with thin ice, at the time of his visit,

for the last third of the way: from the roof at the farther end, where

the cave is not so high as at the entrance, a congeries of icicles was

seen to hang; and in a corner on the right, completely sheltered from

the rays of the sun, there was a large mass of the same material. It was

a fine forenoon in July, and all was in a state of thaw, the icicles

dropping water, and the floor of ice covered with a thin layer of water;

while the thermometer in all parts of the cave stood at zero of

Réaumur's scale. The rock is compact unstratified limestone, in which so

many of the famous caverns of the world are found.

_The Cave of Yeermalik, in Koondooz_[101]

In the year 1840, Captain Burslem, of the 13th Light Infantry, made an

expedition from Cabul to the North-west, accompanied by Lieutenant Sturt

of the Bengal Engineers, who was afterwards killed in the terrible pass

where Lady Sale, whose daughter he had married, was shot through the

arm.

After crossing the high and wild pass of Karakotul (10,500 feet), these

travellers reached the romantic glen of the Doaub, which lies at the

foot of the pass, and is surrounded on all sides by lofty mountains.

Here they were hospitably entertained by Shah Pursund Khan, the chief of

the small territory, and their curiosity was roused by the account

given by an old moollah of a cavern seven miles off, which the Shah

strongly advised them not to attempt to visit, for the Sheitan (the

devil), whose ordinary place of abode it was, never allowed a stranger

to return from its recesses. The moollah, however, scouted this idea, on

the ground that it was much too cold for such an inhabitant; and the

Shah eventually agreed to accompany them to the cave with a band of his

followers.

As they rode through long and rich grass, following the course of a

gentle stream, and tormented by swarms of forest flies, or

blood-suckers, the Shah informed them that he had once endeavoured to

explore the cave, and had already penetrated to a considerable

distance, when he came upon the fresh prints of a naked foot, with an

extraordinary impression by their side, which he suspected to be the

foot of Sheitan himself, and so he beat a precipitate retreat. The

moollah told them that there was a large number of skeletons in the

cave, the remains of 700 men who took refuge there during the invasion

of Genghis Khan, with their wives and families, and defended

themselves so stoutly, that, after trying in vain the means by which

the M'Leods were destroyed in barbarous times, and the opponents of

French progress in Algeria in times less remote, the invader built

them in with huge natural blocks of stone, and left them to die of

hunger.

The entrance is half-way up a hill, and is 50 feet high, with about the

same breadth. Not far from the entrance they found a passage between two

jagged rocks, possibly the remains of Genghis Khan's fatal wall, so

narrow that they had some difficulty in squeezing through; and then,

before long, came to a drop of 16 feet, down which they were lowered by

ropes made from the cotton turbans of the Shah and his attendants. Here

they left two men to haul them up on their return, and bade farewell to

the light of day. The narrow path led by the edge of a black abyss,

sometimes over a flooring of smooth ice for a few feet, and widened

gradually till they reached a damp and dripping hall, of dimensions so

vast that the light of their torches did not enable them to form a

conception of its size. In this hall they found hundreds of skeletons in

a perfectly undisturbed state, one, for instance, still holding the

skeletons of two infants in its bony arms, while some of the bodies had

been preserved, and lay shrivelled like those at the Great St. Bernard.

They were very much startled here by the discovery of the prints of a

naked human foot, and by its side the distinct mark of the pointed heel

of an Affghan boot,[102] precisely what had so thoroughly frightened the

Shah twelve years before. The prints retained all the sharpness of

outline which marks a recent impression, and led towards the farther

recesses of the cave; but the Englishmen were called away from their

investigation by the announcement that if they did not make haste, there

would not be oil enough for lighting them to the ice-caves.

Proceeding through several low arches and smaller caves, they reached at

length a vast hall, in the centre of which was[103] an enormous mass of

clear ice, smooth and polished as a mirror, and in the form of a

gigantic beehive, with its dome-shaped top just touching the long

icicles which depended from the jagged surface of the rock. A small

aperture led to the interior of this wonderful congelation, the walls of

which were nearly 2 feet thick; the floor, sides, and roof were smooth

and slippery, and their figures were reflected from floor to ceiling

and from side to side in endless repetition. The inside of this chilly

abode was divided into several compartments of every fantastic shape: in

some the glittering icicles hung like curtains from the roof; in others,

the vault was smooth as glass. Beautifully brilliant were the prismatic

colours reflected from the varied surface of the ice, when the torches

flashed suddenly upon them as they passed from cave to cave. Around,

above, beneath, everything was of solid ice, and being unable to stand

on account of its slippery nature, they slid, or rather glided,

mysteriously along the glassy surface of this hall of spells. In one of

the largest compartments the icicles had reached the floor, and gave the

idea of pillars supporting the roof.

The cavern in which this marvellous mass of ice stood, branched off into

numerous galleries, one of which led the party to a sloping platform of

rapidly increasing steepness, where they were startled by the

reappearance of the naked foot-prints, passing down the slope. The toes

were spread out in a manner which showed that they belonged to some one

who had been in the habit of going barefoot, and Captain Burslem took a

torch and determined to trace the steps: a large stone, however, gave

way under his weight; and this, sliding down at first, and then rolling

and bounding on for ever, raised such a tumult of noise and echoes that

the natives with one accord cried 'Sheitan! Sheitan!' and fled

precipitately, extinguishing all the lights in their fear; so that but

for Sturt's torch the whole party must have been lost in the darkness.

Shah Pursund Khan at once called a retreat, vowing that it was of no use

to attempt to follow the footsteps, as it was well known that the cave

extended to Cabul! The guides had now lost their small allowance of

pluck, and wandered about despairingly for a long time before they could

find their way back to the ice-cave, and thence to the foot of the rock

where the two men and the turban-ladders had been left. As soon as they

came in sight of this, their comrades above cried out to them that they

must make all haste, for Sheitan himself had appeared an hour before,

running along the ledge where they now were, and finally vanishing into

the gloom beyond; an announcement which of course produced a stampede in

the terrified party of natives. Five or six rushed to the spot where the

turbans hung, and only an opportune fall of stones from above prevented

their destroying the apparatus in their blind hurry to escape. The chief

claimed the privilege of being drawn up first, and he and all his

followers declared that nothing should ever tempt them to visit again

the Cave of Yeermalik.[104]

_The Surtshellir, in Iceland_.

The first account of this lava-cavern is given by Olafsen,[105] who

visited it in 1750 and 1753. Ebenezer Henderson[106] explored it in

1815, and Captain Forbes gives some account of it in his recent book on

Iceland.[107] It is mentioned in some of the Sagas,[108] and appears to

have been a refuge for robbers in the tenth century, and Sturla

Sigvatson, with a large band of followers, spent some time here. The

Landnama Saga derives the name Surtshellir from a huge giant called

Surtur, who made his abode in the cave; but Olafsen believed that the

name merely meant _black hole_, from _surtur_ or _svartur_, and was due

to the darkness of the cave and the colour of the lava: in accordance

with this view, it is called _Hellerin Sortur_, or _black hole_, in some

of the earlier writings. The common people are convinced that it is

inhabited by ghosts; and Olafsen and his party were assured that they

would be turned back by horrible noises, or else killed outright by the

spirits of the cave: at any rate, their informants declared they would

no more reach the inner parts of the cavern than they had reached the

traditional green valley of Aradal, isolated in the midst of glaciers,

with its wild population of descendants of the giants, which they had

endeavoured to find some time before.[109]

The cave is in the form of a tunnel a mile or more in length, with

innumerable ramifications, in the lava which has flowed from the Bald

Yökul. It lies on the edge of the uninhabited waste called the

Arnavatns-heidi, in a district described by Captain Forbes as distorted

and devilish, a cast-iron sea of lava. The approach is through an open

chasm, 20 to 40 feet in depth, and 50 feet broad, leading to the

entrance of the cave, where the height is between 30 and 40 feet, and

the breadth rather more than 50. Henderson found a large quantity of

congealed snow at this entrance, and along pool of water resting on a

floor of ice, which turned his party back and forced them to seek

another entrance, where again they found snow piled up to a

considerable height. Olafsen also mentions collections of snow under the

various openings in the lava which forms the roof of the cave. The

latter explorer discovered interesting signs of the early inhabitants of

the Surtshellir, as, for instance, the common bedstead, built of stones,

2-1/2 feet high, 36 feet long, and 14 feet broad, with a pathway down

the middle, forming the only passage to the inner parts of the cave. The

spaces enclosed by these stones were strewn with black sand, on which

rough wool was probably laid by way of mattress. This could scarcely

have been a bedstead in the time of the giants, for a total breadth of

14 feet, deducting for the pathway down the middle, will not give more

than 6 feet for the layer of men on either side, unless indeed they lay

parallel to the passage, and required a length of 36 feet. He also found

an old wall, built with blocks of lava across one part of the cave, as

if for defence, and a large circular heap of the bones of sheep and

oxen, presumably the remains of many years of feasting. Captain Forbes

scoffs at these bones, and suggests errant wild ponies as the depositors

thereof.

Olafsen had found in his earlier visit that the way was stopped, far

in the recesses of the cave, by a lake of water, which filled the

tunnel to a depth of 3 feet or more, lying on ice; but in 1753 there

was not more than a foot of water, through which they waded without

much difficulty. The air soon became exceedingly cold and thick, and

for some hundreds of paces they saw no light of day, till at length

they reached a welcome opening in the roof. Beyond this, the air grew

colder and more thick, and the walls were found to be sheeted with ice

from roof to floor, or covered with broad and connected icicles. The

ground also was a mass of ice, but an inch or two of fine brown earth

lay upon it, which enabled them to keep their footing. This earth

appeared to have been brought down by the water which filtered through

the roof. 'The most wonderful thing,' Olafsen remarks, 'that we

noticed here, was, that the stalactites of ice were set with regular

figures of five and seven sides, joined together, and resembling those

seen on the second stomach of ruminating animals. The condensed cold

of the air must have imparted these figures to the ice; they were not

external (merely?), but in the ice itself, which otherwise was clear

and transparent.'

Henderson and his party appear to have had much more wading to do than

Olafsen, walking in one instance through a long tract of water up to the

knees. In the deeper recesses of the cave, apparently in the part where

the earlier explorers had found the reticulated ice, they found the

whole floor of the passage covered with thick ice, with so steep a dip

that they sat down and slid forward by their own weight--a most

undignified proceeding for a grave gentleman on a mission from the Bible

Society. On holding their torches close to the floor, they saw down to a

depth of 7 or 8 feet, the ice being as clear as crystal. 'The roof and

sides of the cave were decorated with most superb icicles, crystallised

in every possible form, many of which rivalled in minuteness the finest

zeolites; while from the icy floor rose pillars of the same substance,

assuming all the curious and phantastic shapes imaginable, mocking the

proudest specimens of art, and counterfeiting many well-known objects of

animated nature. Many of them were upwards of 4 feet high, generally

sharpened at the extremity, and about 2 feet in thickness. A more

brilliant scene perhaps never presented itself to the human eye, nor was

it easy for us to divest ourselves of the idea that we actually beheld

one of the fairy scenes depicted in Eastern fable. The light of the

torches rendered it peculiarly enchanting.'

Captain Forbes found much ice on the floor, but he did not enjoy the

cold and wet, and seems to have ascended by the last opening in the

roof, mentioned by Olafsen, before reaching the cavern where the more

beautiful parts of the ice-decoration were found by his predecessors.

The two engravings of the interior of the cave given in his book are

copied from the magnificent lithographs of Paul Gaimard,[110] but much

of the effect has been lost in the process of copying.

Mr. Baring Gould mentions this cavern in his book on Iceland, and

believes that its interest has been much overrated. He seems to have

visited the cave, but makes no allusion to the existence of ice.[111]

Mr. E.T. Holland visited the Surtshellir in the course of his tour in

Iceland, in 1861, and an account of his visit is given in the first

volume of 'Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers.'[112] After following in

Olafsen's steps for some time, the party reached a cave whose floor was

composed of very clear ice, apparently of great thickness, for they

could not see the lava beneath it. The walking on this smooth ice-floor

Mr. Holland describes as being delightful, the whole sloping

considerably downwards. 'In five minutes,' he continues, 'we reached the

most beautiful fairy grotto imaginable. From the crystal floor of ice

rose up group after group of transparent icy pillars, while from the

glittering roof most brilliant icy pendants hung down to meet them.

Columns and arches of ice were ranged along the crystalline walls ... I

never saw a more brilliant scene; and indeed it would be difficult to

imagine anything more fairy-like. The pillars were many of them of great

size, tapering to a point as they rose. The largest were at least 8 feet

high, and 6 feet in circumference at their base. The stalactites were on

an equally grand scale. Through this lovely ice-grotto we walked for

nearly ten minutes.'

[Illustration: ICE-CAVE IN THE SURTSHELLIR.]

The temperature of the caves, Mr. Holland states in a note, was from 8°

to 10° C. (46·4° to 50° F.), that of the air outside being 53·6° F.

_The Gypsum Cave of Illetzkaya-Zastchita, in the Steppes of the

Kirghis, South of Orenburg_.

The district in which this cavern occurs is a small green oasis on the

undulating steppe, lying on a vast bed of rock-salt, which extends over

an area of two versts in length, and a mile in breadth, with a thickness

of more than 100 feet. When the thin cover of red sand and marl is

removed, the white salt is exposed, and is found to be so free from all

stain, or admixture of other material, excepting sometimes minute

filaments of gypsum, that it is pounded at once for use, without any

cleansing or recrystallising process.

In the immediate neighbourhood of Illetzkaya-Zastchita there are two or

three gypseous hillocks, and a cavern in one of these is used by the

inhabitants as a cellar, having been artificially enlarged for that

purpose. Sir Roderick Murchison and his colleagues visited this cavern

on a hot day in August, with the thermometer at 90° in the shade, in the

course of their travels under the patronage of the late Emperor of

Russia.[113] They found the hillock to be an irregular cone 150 feet in

height; the entrance was by a frail door, on a level with the village

street, and fully exposed to the rays of the sun; and yet, when the door

was opened, so piercing a current of cold air poured forth, that they

were glad to beat a retreat for a while; and on eventually exploring

farther, they found the quass and provisions, stored in the cave,

half-frozen within three or four paces of the door. The chasm soon

opened out into a natural vault from 12 to 15 feet high, 10 or 12 paces

long, and 7 or 8 in width, which seemed to have numerous small

ramifications into the impending mound of gypsum and marl. The roof of

this inner cavern was hung with undripping solid icicles, and the floor

was a conglomerate of ice and frozen earth. They were assured that the

cold is always greatest within when the external air is hottest and

driest, and that the ice gradually disappears as winter approaches, and

vanishes when the snow comes. The peasants were unanimous in these

statements, and asserted that they could sleep in the cave without

sheepskins in the depth of winter.

Sir Roderick Murchison and his friends were at first inclined to explain

these phenomena by supposing that the chief fissure communicated with

some surface of rock-salt, 'the saliferous vapours of which might be so

rapidly evaporated or changed in escaping to an intensely hot and dry

atmosphere as to produce ice and snow.' But Sir John Herschel, to whom

they applied for assistance, rejected the evaporation theory, and

suggested that the external summer wave of heat might possibly only

reach the cave at Christmas, being delayed six months in its passage

through the rock; the cold of winter, in the same manner, arriving at

midsummer. To this the explorers objected, that the mound contained many

caves, but' only in this particular fissure was any ice found. Dr.

Robinson, astronomer at Armagh, endeavoured to explain the matter by

referring to De Saussure's explanation of the phenomena of _cold

caves_ in Italy and elsewhere; but this, too, was considered

unsatisfactory. At length, Professor Wheatstone referred them to the

memoir by Professor Pictet, in the _Bibliothèque Universelle_ of Geneva,

where that _savant_ improves upon De Saussure's theory, and applies it

in its new form to the case of caves containing permanent ice, in tracts

whose mean cold is above the freezing point. This they seem to have

accepted, adding that the climatological circumstances of Orenburg--a

wet spring, caused by the melting of the abundant snows, followed by a

summer of intense and dry Asiatic heat--must be particularly favourable

for the working out of the theory, and must also act powerfully in

producing the refrigerating effects of evaporation.[114]

The traveller Pallas visited Illetzkaya in July 1769, and describes

this gypseous hillock.[115] In his time the entrance by the side of

the hill was unknown, as also was the existence of ice in the cavern.

He saw at the top of the Kraoul-naï-Gora, or Watch-mountain, as it was

called, a fissure which had once formed a large cavern, into which the

Kirghis were in the habit of throwing furs and other materials as

religious offerings. Although the cave had since fallen in, they still

kept up a part of the ceremony, marching solemnly round the base of

the hill once a year, and bathing in the neighbouring water. In

earlier times, a man had descended through the fissure by means of

cords, and found the cold within insupportable, having very probably

reached the present ice-cave.

Pallas describes many caves in various parts of Russia, but never

seems to hint at the existence of ice in them, though he specially

mentions their extreme cold. Some of these occurred in gypsum, and

some in limestone; and the gypseous caves showed universally a very

low temperature, though still far above the freezing-point.[116] Thus

in the dark cavern of Barnoukova,[117] on the Piana, in a rock of

gypsum, while the thermometer in the shade stood at 75°.2, the

temperatures at various points in the cave were,--at the entrance

59°.36, 25 feet from the entrance 46°.4, and in the coldest part

42°.8. This cold he describes as insupportable. The temperature of the

water which had accumulated in the coldest parts of the cave was

48°.8, considerably higher than the surrounding atmosphere; from which

Pallas concluded that the cold of gypsum-caves is due to the acid

vapours which are generally observed in grottoes of this description.

In May 1770, he found snow on the sloping entrance to the cavern of

Loeklé, in the neighbourhood of the Oufa; but the air of the interior

was not colder than was to be expected in a deep cave.

Sir R. Murchison wrote to Russia for further information with respect to

this cave in January 1865, and again in the beginning of April,

addressing his second enquiry to the Secretary of the Imperial Academy.

In reply, the Secretary says that he is not aware that any thermometric

observations have been made in the cavern. He encloses a short statement

by M. Helmersen, one of the members of the Academy, to the following

effect:--About 50 versts SE. of Miask, in the chain of the Ural, is a

copper mine, called Kirobinskoy, which was abandoned more than fifty

years ago. On the 7th July, 1826, M. Helmersen found a thick wainscoting

of ice on the sides and roof and floor of the horizontal gallery, within

10 feet of the entrance. He was assured that this ice never melts, and

that its thickness is greater in summer than in winter. M. Helmersen

adds, that to the best of his belief no one has investigated the cavern

of Illetzkaya Zastchita since Sir R. Murchison's visit.

_The Ice-Cavern of the Peak of Teneriffe_.[118]

This cave is at a height of 11,040 feet above the sea, and is therefore

not far below the snow-line of the latitudes of the Canary Isles. The

entrance is by a hole 3 or 4 feet square, in the roof of the cave, which

may be about 20 feet from the floor. The peasants who convey snow and

ice from the cave to the lower regions, enter by means of knotted ropes;

but Professor Smyth had caused his ship's carpenter to prepare a stout

ladder, by which photographic instruments and a lady were taken down.

On alighting on a heap of stones at the bottom, the party found

themselves surrounded by a sloping wall of snow, 3 feet high, and 7 or 8

feet broad, the basin in which they stood being formed in the snow by

the vertical rays of the sun, and by the dropping of water from the

edges of the hole[119]. Beyond this ring-fence, large surfaces of water

stretched away into the farther recesses of the cave, resting on a layer

of ice, which appeared to be generally about 2 feet thick. At one of the

deeper ends of the cave, water dropped continually from the crevices of

the roof; a fact which Professor Smyth attributed to the slow advance of

the summer wave of heat through the superincumbent rock, which was only

now reaching the inner recesses of the loose lava, and liquefying the

results of the past winter. There would seem to be immense infiltration

of meteoric water on the Peak; for, notwithstanding the great depth of

rain which falls annually in a liquid or congealed form, the sides of

the mountain are not scored with the lines of water-torrents.

Though occurring in lava, this cavern is quite different from

lava-tunnels, such as the Surtshellir, which are recognised formations,

produced by the cooling of the terminal surface-crust of the stream of

lava, and the subsequent bursting forth of the molten stream within.

This, on the contrary, proved to be a smooth dome-shaped cave, running

off into three contracting lobes or tunnels which might be respectively

70, 50, and 40 feet long, and were all filled to a certain depth with

water: in the smoothness of the interior surfaces, Professor Smyth

believed that he detected the action of highly elastic gases on a

plastic material.

The astronomer takes exception to the term 'underground glacier'[120]

which had been applied to this cavern. He represents that the mountain

is abundantly covered each winter with snow, in the neighbourhood of the

ice-cave, which is nearly within the snow-line, and the stores of snow

thus accumulated in the cave have no great difficulty in resisting the

effects of summer heat, since all radiation is cut off by the roof of

rocks. The importance of this protection may be understood from the fact

that in the middle of July the thermometer at this altitude gave 130° in

the sun, but fell to 47° when relieved from the heat due to radiation.

At the time of this observation, there were still patches of snow lying

on the mountain-side, exposed to the full power of direct radiation;

and, therefore, there is not anything very surprising in the permanence

of snow under such favourable circumstances as are developed in the

cave. Mr. Airy, a few summers ago, found the rooms of the Casa Inglese,

on Mount Etna, half filled with snow, which had drifted in by an open

door, and had been preserved from solar radiation by the thick

roof.[121]

Humboldt remarks, that the mean temperature of the region in which the

Cueva del Hielo (ice-cave) occurs, is not below 3° C. (37.4° F.), but so

much snow and ice are stored up in the winter that the utmost efforts of

the summer heat cannot melt it all. He adds, that the existence of

permanent snow in holes or caves must depend more upon the amount of

winter snow, and the freedom from hot winds, than on the absolute

elevation of the locality.

The natives of Teneriffe are men of faith. They have large belief in the

existence and intercommunication of numerous vast caverns in the Peak,

one of which, on the north coast, is said to communicate with the

ice-cavern, notwithstanding 8 miles of horizontal distance, and 11,000

feet of vertical depth. The truth of this particular article of their

creed has been recently tested by several worthy and reverend hidalgos,

who drove a dog into the entrance of the cavern on the sea-coast, in the

belief that he would eventually come to light again in the ice-cave: he

was accordingly found lying there some days after, greatly fatigued and

emaciated, having in the interval accomplished the 11,000 feet of

subterranean climbing. How he could enter, from below, a water-logged

cave, does not appear to have been explained.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 98: The _Caves of Szelicze_ are mentioned in Murray's

_Handbook of Southern Germany_ (1858, p. 555), where the following

account is given of them:--'During the winter a great quantity of ice

accumulates in these caves, which is not entirely melted before the

commencement of the ensuing winter. In the summer months they are

consequently filled with vast masses of ice broken up into a thousand

fantastic forms, and presenting by their lucidity a singular contrast to

the sombre vaults and massive stalactites of the cavern.'

The _Drachenhöhle_ (Murray, 1. c.p. 553), a series of caverns not far

from Neusohl in Hungary, afford another instance of an ice-cave, one of

the largest of them being said to be coated with a sheet of translucid

ice, through which the stalactitic fretwork of the vault is seen to

great advantage.]

[Footnote 99: Not far from Kaschau.]

[Footnote 100: _Travels in Hungary_, 1797, pp. 317, &c.]

[Footnote 101: _A Peep into Toorkistan_; London, 1846; chapters x. and

xi.]

[Footnote 102: They were now in a country far removed from the Affghans,

and hostile to that people.]

[Footnote 103: The remainder of this paragraph is in Captain Burslem's

own words.]

[Footnote 104: I am indebted for the knowledge of the existence of these

caves to W.A. Sandford, Esq., F.G.S., who informed me that an account of

them was to be found in a book of travels by an English officer. I am

not aware that they have been visited on any other occasion than this.]

[Footnote 105: _Reise durch Island_, Copenhagen, 1744 (being a German

translation from the original Danish), i. 128 sqq.]

[Footnote 106: _Henderson's Iceland_, ii. 189 sqq.]

[Footnote 107: Pp. 145 sqq.]

[Footnote 108: The Sturlunga, Landnama, and Holmveria Sagas.]

[Footnote 109: Two priests determined to solve the mystery of this

unapproachable valley, the Aradal, or Thoris-thal, with its rich meadows

and gigantic inhabitants, and made an expedition for this purpose in

1664. They reached a point where the glaciers fell off into a valley so

deep that they could not see whether there were meadows at the bottom or

not, and the slope was so rapid that it was impossible to descend.]

[Footnote 110: _Voyage en Islande; Atlas Historique_; t. ii., pl.

130-133.]

[Footnote 111: _Iceland: its Scenes and Sagas_: pp. 97, 98.]

[Footnote 112: Page 113.]

[Footnote 113: _Russia and the Ural Mountains_, i. 186, sqq.]

[Footnote 114: See the Papers read before the Geological Society of

London, on March 9, 1842, by Sir John Herschel and Sir E. Murchison, the

substance of which has been given above.

See also the _Edinburgh Philosophical Journal_ for 1843 (xxxv. 191), for

an attempt by Dr. Hope to explain the phenomena of this cave by a

reference to the slow penetration of the winter and summer waves of cold

and heat. Dr. Hope believes that, although the external changes do not

travel to any great depth, they reach far enough to communicate with

some of the fissures leading to the cave.]

[Footnote 115: _Voyages_ (French translation); Paris, 1788; i. 364.]

[Footnote 116: In the gypsum to the NE. of Kungur, on the banks of the

Iren, there is a cave containing ice. Four of its chambers have ice, in

one of which a stalagmite of ice rises almost to the roof. The farthest

chamber, 625 fathoms from the entrance, contains a lake of water which

stretches away out of sight under the low roof. (_Taschenbuch für die

gesammte Mineralogie_; Leonhard, 1826; B. 2, S. 425. Published as

_Zeitschrift für Mineralogie_.)]

[Footnote 117: Pallas, _Voyages_, i. 84.]

[Footnote 118: _Teneriffe_, by Professor Smyth, ch. viii., and Humboldt,

_Voyage aux Régions Équinoctiales_; Paris, 1814; i. 124.]

[Footnote 119: They afterwards discovered smoke issuing from the centre

of this patch of stones; so that volcanic heat may possibly have had

something to do with the disappearance of the snow.]

[Footnote 120: '_Ce petit glacier souterrain_,' Humboldt, l.c.]

[Footnote 121: See p. 272 for an account of the underground glacier in

the neighbourhood of the Casa Inglese.]

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Ice-Caves of France and Switzerland · 第 15 / 19 章