is a long bluff high Point, and looks white down to the Water. The next
Land to the Southward of _Tecames_ is also white Cliffs, but not so
high. I saw no Land on any part of the Shore, like those white Cliffs.
Between them, which is about 3 Leagues, the Land is lower, full of Wood,
and trimming inward makes a small Bay, and the Village of _Tecames_ lies
in the Bottom, consisting of 7 Houses and a Church, all low built of
split Bamboes, cover’d with Palmetto Leaves, and standing on Posts, with
Hog-sties under them. These Houses have notch’d Pieces of Timber instead
of Stairs to get up to ’em. The Village lies close by the Water-side,
and may be seen when the Bay is open above 4 Leagues. ’Tis suppos’d they
had sent off their best Furniture on notice of our Approach, for there
was nothing of Worth in their Houses nor Church. The Women had only a
Piece of Bays tied about their Middle. The Men are dextrous at hunting
and fishing. There is a large Village about 4 Leagues off, where the
Padre resides, and several _Indians_ live between these Villages. The
next River, 3 Leagues to the Northward, is very large, and call’d _Rio
de las Esmeraldas_, but shoal’d; the Country about is thinly inhabited
by _Indians_, Mullattoes and Samboes. By the Village of _Tecames_
there’s a River into which a Boat may enter at half Tide; it flows here
above 3 Fathom Water, the Flood runs to the Northward, and the Ebb to
the Southward; there is an infinite Number of Plantains for 3 Days
Journey into the Country, the nearest are about a League from the
Houses, and were brought to our Boats down this River in their Canoes.
Here runs a great Surf on the Shore, so that were it not in these Parts
of the World, it would be but an ordinary Road. Ships generally come in
from the Southward, or at least directly in with the Southermost white
Land, and then bear away, because (as we were inform’d) there is an ugly
Shole runs off the Northernmost white Land, about 2 Leagues into the
Sea, being the Place where we had but 8 Fathom Water on the _23d_
instant, as I noted before. We now came in from abreast off Cape _St.
Francisco_, Lat. 1°. 00´´. N. and this lies in about E.N.E. near 6
Leagues from Cape _St. Francisco_. We came no nearer than half a League
of the Shore, because there is a small Shole off of a Point about half
way between _Tecames_; and the Cape, which is an indifferent high
Promontory, and as we made it, falls down like Stairs to the Water. We
had good clean Ground where we rode near half a League from the Shore in
7 Fathom Water, but a League into the Bottom of the Bay, where the
Houses lie, there’s not above 3 Fathom a good Musket-shot from the
Shore. There is another River enters in by a single House between us and
_Tecames_ Village, where we fetch’d our Water about 2 Leagues up this
River; and it’s very narrow, and shoal’d all from the Entrance; we went
in on half Flood. Here’s Sea and Land Breezes, as well as on all this
Coast near the Main Land; the Sea Breeze at W. and W.S.W. the Land
Breeze at S. and S. by E. The Sea Breeze comes generally in the
Afternoon, and holds till Midnight, when comes the Land Breeze, which
dies away calm towards the Middle of the Day. There’s a Rock under Water
at quarter Flood, and a Shoal above a Cable’s Length off Shore, from the
first Point as you go in for the narrow River where we water’d. A Ship
ought not to come to an Anchor near the Shore, if High Water, in less
than 6 Fathom, because at certain times, and out of course, as the
_Indians_ told us, the Tide ebbs exceeding low. It’s dry Weather here,
tho’ showry to the Northward, being the Limits of the Rains at this time
of the Year. From _June_ to _December_ ’tis always dry, and from the
Beginning of _January_ to the last of _May_ there are Showers now and
then.
The _Indians_ about this Place are sometimes barbarous to the
_Spaniards_, as our Prisoners tell us. Our People saw here about 50
armed with Bows and Arrows, and some good Fire-Arms; they are worse to
engage than double the Number of _Spaniards_, so that it would have been
folly in us to land Men here, where there is so little to be got; and
the _Indians_ with poison’d Arrows and Fire-Arms would line the Bushes
down to the Water-side, and no doubt we should have lost many of our
Men, had we landed by force; so that we are all extremely obliged to Mr.
_White_ our Linguist, for negotiating a Trade in so peaceable a manner
with these poor mischievous Wretches, which must in Justice be ascrib’d
to his good Management, he accomplishing it voluntarily with the Danger
of his Life.
’Twas off this Cape that Sir _Francis Drake_ in 1578. took the rich
Plate Prize; and Sir _Richard Hawkins_ was taken by the _Spaniards_ in
this Bay off of _Tecames_ in 1594. both in Queen Elizabeth’s Time.
_Sept. 1._ At 6 this Morning Cape _St. Francisco_ bore S. E. distant 10
Leagues, from whence we take our Departure. Had fair Weather, Wind at S.
W. by S. We saw many Water-snakes, one of ’em crawl’d up the Side of
Capt. _Cooke’s_ Ship, but was beat off by his Men. The _Spaniards_ say
their Bite is incurable.
_Sept. 6._ This day I had Capt. _Courtney_, Capt. _Cooke_, and Capt.
_Dampier_ aboard, who dined with us. Capt. _Cooke_ complain’d of his
Ship being crank, and that we need not have tack’d so near the Shore,
since we might easily fetch the _Gallapagos_ without Tacking. All agree
to this except our Pilot, who is very positive of seeing other Islands
about 100 or 110 Leagues from the Main under the Equinox. He tells us he
was at them formerly when he was a Buccaneer, and has describ’d ’em in
one of the Volumes he calls his Voyages, and says that those Islands we
were at lay to the Westward of them; but he must be mistaken, or we had
seen them in the last Runs to and from these Islands.
_Sept. 8._ We are run over and beyond where our Pilot affirm’d the
Islands were, and no sight of them; so we all agree that the Islands he
was at when a buccaneering can be no other but those we were at, and are
going to now; the nearest part of them lies 165 Leagues to the Westward
of the Main Land.
_Sept. 10._ The _8th_ we made one of the _Gallapagos_ Islands, and in
the Morning hoisted out our Pinnace; Capt. Dover and Mr. _Glendall_ went
in her for the Shore. The _Dutchess_’s Pinnace return’d very soon laden
with Turtle.
[Sidenote: _Arrival among the Gallapagos Islands._]
_ Sept. 11._ Yesterday we came to an Anchor in about 30 Fathom Water,
about 2 Miles off Shore, being rocky at bottom. In letting go the Anchor
the Buoy Rope was immediately cut off, and our Ship drove; so that we
thought our Cable was also cut, but after driving about half a Mile the
Ship rode very well. In the Evening our Boats that left us after we came
to an Anchor, return’d laden with excellent good Turtle: We sent our
Yawl and some Men ashore to turn those Creatures in the Night, but to no
purpose, because we afterwards found they only came ashore in the Day. I
sent away our Pinnace, and Lieut. _Frye_ to sound out a better anchoring
Place, while we hove up the Anchor, and came to sail. Our Boat return’d,
and by 10 a Clock we had our Ship again to an Anchor within less than a
Mile off the Shore, right against a white sandy Bay. The outermost great
Rock being near the Middle of the Island, bore N. by E. distant 6 Miles;
the little Rock appearing like a Sail bore W. by S. about 4 Miles. Here
we rode very smooth in good sandy Ground; the Wind amongst these Islands
generally blows from the S. E. to the S. by W. I went ashore in the
Pinnace, and carried Men to walk round the Sandy Bay to get Turtle. The
Island is high like the rest, but some low Land on this side down to the
Sea; it’s very rocky, dry and barren, with out Water, like those we have
already seen.
_Sept. 12._ This Morning I sent to the _Dutchess_, who was at an Anchor
a good distance from us, to know how they were stock’d with Turtle. At
10 the Boat return’d with an Account they had about 150 Land and Sea
Turtle, but not generally so large as ours: We had no Land Turtle as
yet, but about 150 Sea Turtle; the _Marquiss_ had the worst Luck.
_Sept. 13._ The _Dutchess_’s People having inform’d us where they got
their Land Turtle, I sent our Pinnace, which at Night return’d with 37,
and some Salt they found in a Pond; and the Yawl brought 20 Sea Turtle,
so that we are very full of them. Some of the largest of the Land Turtle
are about 100 Pound Weight, and those of the Sea upwards of 400: The
Land Turtle lay Eggs on our Deck; our Men brought some from the Shore
about the bigness of a Goose’s Egg, white, with a large thick Shell
exactly round. These Creatures are the ugliest in Nature, the Shell not
unlike the Top of an old Hackney Coach, as black as Jet, and so is the
outside Skin, but shrivel’d and very rough; the Legs and Neck are long,
and about the bigness of a Man’s Wrist, and they have Club Feet as big
as one’s Fist, shaped much like those of an Elephant, with 5 thick Nails
on the Fore Feet, and but 4 behind; the Head little, and Visage small,
like a Snake, and look very old and black; when at first surpriz’d, they
shrink their Neck, Head and Legs under their Shell. Two of our Men,
with Lieut. _Stratton_, and the Trumpeter of the _Dutchess_, affirm,
they saw vast large ones of this sort about 4 Foot high; they mounted 2
Men on the Back of one of them, who with its usual slow Pace carried
them, and never minded the Weight: They suppos’d this could not weigh
less than 700 Pound. I don’t affect giving Relations of strange
Creatures so frequently done by others already in print; but where an
uncommon Creature falls in my way, I shall not omit it. The _Spaniards_
tell us they know of none elsewhere in these Seas. This Morning we began
heeling our Ship, and found that abundance of Worms had entered the
Sheathing; we scrub’d, clean’d, and tallow’d as low as we could.
_Sept. 14._ Yesterday Afternoon we sent a Boat ashore for Wood, they
brought off the Rudder and Boltsprit of a small Bark; we fancy’d it
might be Mr. _Hattley_’s that we lost amongst these Islands when here
before, but on view perceiv’d it to be much older. We also found 2 Jars,
and a Place where Fire had been made on the Shore, but nothing to give
us farther Hopes of poor Mr. _Hattley_. Our Pinnace came aboard and
brought about 18 Bushells of Salt, and 18 Land Turtle more; the Men
commend them for excellent Food, especially the Land Turtle, which makes
very good Broth, but the Flesh never boils tender: for my own part, I
could eat neither sort yet. Having got as much Turtle on board, as we
could eat while good, we agreed to make the best of our Way to the Coast
of _Mexico_, and this Morning our Consort and the _Marquiss_ were under
Sail by 8 a Clock, but we lying farther in were becalm’d, and could not
follow them. We caught a good quantity of Fish here, which we split and
salted for our future Spending. About 12 a Clock, being calm, we weighed
our Anchor, and with the Help of our Boats and Ships Oars got off the
Shore.
_Sept. 15._ We had a fine Breeze, came up to the rest, and agreed to lye
by with our Heads to the Eastward, till Midnight, being in sight of the
Island and Rock where we lost poor _Hattley_, when last here. In the
Morning we stood to the Westward amongst the Islands.
[Sidenote: _Departure from the Gallapagos Islands._]
_Sept. 16._ At 4 a Clock in the Afternoon we sent our Yawl for Capt.
_Cooke_ and Capt. _Courtney_, with whom we agreed to bear away, seeing
so many Islands and Rocks to the Westward, we did not care to incumber
our selves amongst them in the Night. By 6 we found the Remedy worse
than the Disease, and at Mast head could see all low Rocks almost
joining from Island to Island, that we seem’d Land-lock’d for three
Parts of the Compass, and no Way open but to the S.E. from whence we
came, so we resolv’d to return that Way, and made short Trips all Night,
keeping continual Sounding for fear of Shoals, and had from 40 to 60
Fathom Water. In the Morning we had got far enough to Windward to
return. We could have no Observation by the Sun, being in our Zenith,
tho’ we find the Weather here much colder than in any Latitude within 10
Degrees of each side the Equinox.
_Sept. 17._ Yesterday Afternoon I went a-board the _Marquiss_, being
brought too between the two Islands, in sight of the rendezvous Rock I
have so often mention’d: Mean while the _Dutchess_ (not being so well
provided with Turtle as we) sent her Boat a-shore on another Island,
where they got her Lading of excellent Turtle, leaving a vast Number
a-shore that they could not bring away. We have as many a-board as we
have Room for, being, as we suppose, enough to last us to the _Tres
Marias_, if they live. At 7 we all join’d, and agreed to lie by, till 2
in the Morning, when we again jogg’d on with an easy Sail till
Day-break. We were a-breast of the Thorowfare, where we tried for Water
the last time. I order’d a Gun to be fir’d at a venture, to see if it
were possible Mr. _Hattley_ could be there alive, and then seeing or
hearing us, might make a Smoak a-shore, as a Signal, but we had no such
good Luck; so that our Hopes of him are all vanish’d, and we finally
conclude, that we can do no more for him than we have done already.
The 18th and 19th we saw several more Islands, one of ’em a large one,
which we suppos’d reach’d near the Equinoctial, and abundance of small
Islands betwixt us; the 19th at Noon, we had an indifferent good
Observation. Lat. 2°. 2´´. N.
The _Gallapagos_ Islands need no further Description than I have at
several Places given of them; only that I believe, as others before have
observed, that the Turtle come a-shore in the sandy Bays of these
Islands, all the Year round.
We saw in all (some that we searched and others that we viewed at a
Distance, at both times) no less than 50, but none that had the least
Appearance of fresh Water. The _Spanish_ Reports agree that there is but
one that has any; which lies about Lat. 1°. 30´´. S. Sen. _Morell_ tells
me, that a _Spanish_ Man of War employed to cruize for Pyrates, was once
at an Island that lies by it self in the Lat. 1°. 20 or 30´´. S. They
call it _S. Maria de l’Aquada_, a pleasant Island and good Road, full
of Wood, and Plenty of Water and Turtle, of both sorts, with Fish, _&c._
lying about 140 _Spanish_ Leagues West from the Island _Plata_, but I
believe it’s at least 30 Leagues more, and that it’s no other but the
same Island, where Capt. _Davis_ the _English_ Buccaneer recruited, and
all the Light he has left to find it again is, that it lies to the
Westward of those Islands he was at with the other Buccaneers, which as
I have before examin’d, can be no other than these Islands we have been
twice at. We had no occasion to look for this Island the second Trip,
tho’ I believe it’s easy to find it without farther Directions. Here’s
most sorts of Sea Birds amongst these Islands and some Land Birds,
particularly Hawks of several sorts, and Turtle Doves, both so very tame
that we often hit them down with Sticks. I saw no sort of Beasts; but
there are Guanas in abundance, and Land Turtle almost on every Island:
’Tis strange how the latter got here, because they can’t come of
themselves, and none of that sort are to be found on the Main. Seals
haunt some of these Islands, but not so numerous, nor their Fur so good
as at _Juan Fernando’s_. A very large one made at me 3 several times,
and had I not happen’d to have a Pike-staff pointed with Iron in my
Hand, I might have been kill’d by him; (one of our Men having narrowly
escap’d the Day before.) I was on the level Sand when he came
open-mouth’d at me out of the Water, as quick and fierce as the most
angry Dog let loose. I struck the Point into his Breast, and wounded him
all the three times he made at me, which forc’d him at last to retire
with an ugly Noise, snarling and shewing his long Teeth at me out of the
Water: This amphibious Beast was as big as a large Bear.
_Sept. 22._ The _Marquiss_ had sprung a large Leak, for want of good
Caulking at first in _Gorgona_: I went aboard with our Carpenter, who
assisted theirs, and with a Piece of Lead nail’d over the Leak (being in
the Water’s Edge) soon stopt it, and we made Sail again in a little
time. Wind at S. by E. We had a good Observation. N. Lat. 6°. 9´´. Every
Day as we leave the Equinoctial more distant the Heat encreases very
much.
[Sidenote: _Arrival at the Island Tres Marias._]
_October 1._ Yesterday we made the main Land of _Mexico_; it bore N. E.
distant about 10 Leagues. We hoisted out our Yawl, and fetch’d aboard
Capt. _Cooke_, and his Lieutenant Mr. _Pope_, Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt.
_Dampier_; the latter says he knows this high Land; but the Latt.
directs us all to know it. Capt. _Dampier_, near this Place, five Years
past, met the _Manila_ Ship in the St. _George_, and had a Fight at a
Distance, but he says for want of Men could not board her, and after a
short Dispute, was forced to let her alone. We hall’d off the Shore, W.
N. W. not caring to be near enough to be seen from the Land, to allarm
the Coast too soon. We had often Showers of Rain, Wind at S.S.E.
_Octob. 2._ Most part of this 24 Hours we had Squalls and then little
Wind at S.S.E. intermixt with sultry hot Weather. Our Men begin to be
unhealthy again, two having lately dropt down on the Deck, but after
bleeding came pretty well to themselves. We agreed with our Consort to
lie by from 8 at Night till day break. At Noon it clear’d up, and we saw
the Land, at least 8 Leagues off, tho’ we seem’d just under it, it was
so very high. We made Cape _Corientes_ bearing N.E. about 8 Leagues, by
which we judge according to our Observation at Noon, that it lies in
Lat. 20°. 10´´. N. We know it to be Cape _Corientes_, because we could
see no Land to the Northward of it, and that it was a Head-land. Capt.
_Dampier_ has been here also, but it’s a long Time ago. We all agreed it
was the Cape, and that we had best hall off N. W. to look for the
Islands _Tres Marias_, which are not far from this Cape, but we are not
certain of their Situation.
_Octob. 4._ Yesterday Afternoon, at 4, the Cape bore E. N. E. about 10
Leagues. We kept on under an easy Sail all Night. In the Morning we saw
2 Islands, being very clear Weather, at least 14 Leagues distant, one
bearing N. by W. and the other N. by E. At Noon we had a good
Observation. Lat. 20°. 45´´. N.
Tho’ our Men have their Fill of Land and Sea Turtle, which keeps them
from the Scurvy, yet I find them weak, it being but a faintly Food,
except they had sufficient Bread or Flower with it, they having but a
Pound and a Quarter of Bread or Flower, for five Men a Day, to prolong
our Stock of Bread against we come to live wholly on our salt
Provisions, and then must be forced to allow more.
_Octob. 6._ In the Morning we sent Lieutenant _Frye_ in the Pinnace
ashore on the Eastermost Island, to try whether there was any good Road
or convenience for us to recruit there. At 9 they return’d, and told me
the Island had foul Ground near half a Mile from the Shore; bad
Anchoring, worse Landing, and no fresh Water; but Wood enough. A
melancholy Story, our Water growing short. We hall’d on a Wind, for the
middle Island, which Capt. _Dampier_, I do believe, can remember he was
at, when he belong’d to Captain _Swann_,[137] and found Water. Being
little Wind we sent our Boat towards the Island, to view it before we
could get thither with the Ship.
_Octob. 7._ The _Dutchess_’s People, and our Pinnace had been ashore at
several Places on the S. E. side of the Island, and found bitter Water
at every Place. Our Ship got soon to an Anchor near the _Dutchess_, in
11 Fathom Water and sandy Ground, about a Mile and a half off Shore.
_Octob. 8._ Those that had been on the Island saw no Sign of Peoples
being lately there, but found a human Skull above Ground, which we
suppose to have been one of the two _Indians_ Capt. _Dampier_ tells us
were left here by Capt. _Swann_, about 23 Years ago; for Victuals being
scarce with these _Buccaneers_, they would not carry the poor _Indians_
any farther, but, after they had served their Turns, left them to make a
miserable End on a desolate Island. We kept a Light out all Night, and a
great Fire in the Island, that if the _Marquiss_ and Bark, who had left
Company, saw it, and had a Gale, they might come into Anchor Ground. But
having no sight of them at Day-break, I went on board our Consort, and
propos’d my going out to look after ’em; but they made Light of it and
thought it needless, believing they would be in after us, without any
Assistance. The Recruit of Cattle, Hogs, and Plantains, at _Tecames_,
held to the _Gallapagos_, and we have fed on the Turtle we got there
ever since, excepting these two last Days. This accidental Stock of
fresh Food has been some Refreshment to our Men, and prolongs our Stock
of _European_ Provisions. Now Bread or Flower will be the first thing
wanting. We had little Wind Northerly, and often calm.
_Octob. 9._ Yesterday I sent Lieut. _Glendall_ to view the other side of
the Island, and he brought me back word it was much better than this,
with sandy Bays, and signs of Turtle in the Sand, which he believed came
ashore the last Night. I sent back the Boat and Men to try to get
Turtle; and this Morning they came back with their Boats Load of very
good ones, and left another lading behind them ready turn’d; they also
had found indifferent good Water on the N. E. side of the Island, which
rejoiced us to be so unexpectedly supplied; for the other Water on this
side the Island,
[Sidenote: _At Anchor at St. Marias Islands._]
had purg’d those that drank it aboard the _Dutchess_ like Physick. We
had no sight yet of the Bark or _Marquiss_. ’Tis very hot, with an Air
of Wind Northerly, but almost calm. Our Consort has sent their Pinnace
in quest of the missing Ships.
_Octob. 10._ Lieut. _Connely_ of the _Dutchess_, that went in quest of
’em return’d without any News. And we having begun trimming our Ship,
and stripping the Rigging; the _Dutchess_ desired to go and look for
them, mean while we were to employ our People to cut Wood and get a
Stock of Turtle against their Return. We found an excellent Run of Water
on the other side of the Island, and sent our Pinnace to view the
Westermost Island, to see if either of the missing Ships had got into
Anchor here.
Capt. _Dover_ being willing to remove aboard the _Dutchess_, I desired
our Officers to make the following _Memorandum_.
Tres S. Maria Islands.
_We the under-written, appointed part of a Committee now present on
board the_ Duke, _do certify, that Capt._ Dover _requested to go on
board the_ Dutchess; _and desired us to take notice it was his own
Choice so to do. Witness our Hands, this 10th Day of_ October, 1709.
Stephen Courtney, Robert Frye,
Woodes Rogers, Thomas Glendall,
William Dampier, Lanc. Appleby.
At the same time the following Agreement was made where to meet with the
_Dutchess_, and they took a Copy with them.
_In case we aboard the_ Duke _don’t see the_ Dutchess _return in 10
Days, then to be ready to sail, and first look in the Latitude
20°._ N. _in sight of the Land: If not to be found there, to run
off the Land farther into Sea, and then in sight again, but no
nearer than within 6 Leagues of the Land, to prevent Discovery. We
are to bring all full of Water and Turtle for a second Recruit, to
keep a continual Look-out for them, and leave a Signal at the South
End of this Island._
_Octob. 11._ According to this Agreement Capt. _Dover_ went himself, and
sent his Servant with his Necessaries aboard the _Dutchess_. In the
Evening they came to sail, and carry’d above 100 large Turtle that we
brought to them in our Boats for victualling, to save Salt Provisions.
We hope the Current, that has hitherto run to Leeward, will quickly
shift, and facilitate their Return, that we may not be obliged to follow
them. I order’d 6 Yards of red and white Bays to be join’d together, to
spread it as a Signal on the Island for directing them to a Letter from
me in a Bottle by it, should we unexpectedly quit the Place in her
Absence.
_Octob. 12._ Last Night our Pinnace, which had been in quest of the
missing Ships, return’d from the Westermost Island, and saw no Sign of
the Ships. Our People tell us, they heard aboard the _Dutchess_, that
the Bark had not 2 Days Water when they left them, which made me very
uneasy lest she should go to the Main after Water, which would discover
us, and might prove the Occasion of losing her also.