Corregidore; above half of ’em border on the same River and its
Branches, so that they can join those of the Capital in 2 Tides, tho’ at
several Leagues distance. These Towns and Lieutenancies are as follow.
_A LIST of the Lieutenancy of this Province._
_Leagues._
_Y Aquache_, govern’d by a Lieutenant, distant from }
_Guiaquil_} } 7
_Bava_ 12
_Pemocho_ has 6 Brass Guns of 16 Pound Ball,}
both govern’d by the same Lieutenant. } 14
_Puna_, } { 9
_Naranghal_, } By the same Lieutenant { 14
_Machala_, } { 14
_Daule_, a Lieutenant 7
Point _St. Hellena_,} { 30
_Colonche_, } by the same Lieut. { 20
_Chongong_, } { 7
_Chandoe_, } { 10
_Sheba_, } { 21
_Babaoya_, } by the same Lieut.{ 16
_Chilintoam_, } { 14
_Porto Vaco_, } { 34
_Charapeto_, } { 36
_Peco Assaa_, } by the same Lieut.{ 25
_Manta_, } { 40
_Hepe Hapa_, } { 30
_Porto Vaco_ was formerly the Metropolis of the Province, before the
Government was removed to _Guiaquil_.
[Sidenote: _At Guiaquil._]
In the Towns and the whole Province the _Spaniards_ compute at least
10000 Inhabitants; but I believe there are many more. They are
distinguish’d by themselves into 11 Classes or Sorts, which being
particular, and worth remarking, I shall add a Description of them, for
the Information of such as have not been in those Parts.
The first and chief is the original _Spaniards_, never yet mix’d with
other People (at least as they pretend) and these are most respected.
2. The _Mustees_, begot by _Spaniards_ on _Indian_ Women.
3. _Fino Mustees_, their Children married again with the _Spaniards_.
4. _Terceroons de Indies_, their Children again mix’d with the
_Spaniards_.
5. _Quarteroons de Indies_, their Posterity again mix’d with the
_Spaniards_. These last are allowed to be Primitive _Spaniards_ again.
6. _Mullattoes_, begot by a _Spaniard_, or any _European_, on a Negro
Woman.
7. _Quarteroon de Negroes_, again mixt with the _Spaniards_, and
esteem’d no better than _Mullattoes_.
8. _Terceroon de Negroes_, a third Mixture with the _Spaniards_, still
call’d _Mullattoes_, because they will not allow ’em the Privilege or
Title of _Spaniard_ after once debas’d with the Negro Breed, tho’ some
of ’em are as white as themselves; but they can’t get off the ugly Name
of _Mullatto_, unless they hide their Descent, which is no hard Task, if
they remove their Abode to another Place where they are not known, which
is often practis’d and conniv’d at by the Fathers of the Church, to
increase the Number of good Catholick _Spaniards_.
9. The 9th Sort is _Indians_, who are all of a dark Olive-tawny Colour;
these (tho’ the true and antient Proprietors of the Country) are placed
a Class below the worst of the _Spanish_ Descendants, which are
generally begot without Marriage on their Servants and Slaves.
10. _Negroes._
11. All the Species and Breeds between the _Negroes_ and _Indians_ are
call’d _Sambos_, tho’ by mixing their Breed as they do, they commonly
differ little or nothing to the Eye from the _Spanish_ mix’d
Descendants.
These 11 are the common Sorts, tho’ some of ’em seem not very regularly
distinguish’d: But they have rung Changes so often in those Peals of
Generation, that there is no End of their Distinctions. The _Spaniards_
are the fewest by far of all the Inhabitants; and were it not for those
Mixtures, which the Fathers of the Church keep united, the _Indians_
might again take possession of their Country, for the _Spaniards_ would
be too few to keep it, and much more uncapable of peopling it. Few of
those Prisoners that fell into our hands were healthy and sound; near
half of the _Spaniards_ discover’d publickly to our Doctors their
Malady, in order to get Physick from them against the _French_ Disease,
which is so common here, that they reckon it no Scandal to be deep in
the Powdering Tub; and the Heat of the Country facilitating the Cure,
they make very light of it. All the _Spaniards_ I discours’d allow that
this rich Country is not a tenth peopled, nor are half the _Indians_ far
within Land civilized, tho’ they affirm their King has in the _West
Indies_ more Subjects of several Colours, than in all _Spain_, or the
rest of his Dominions in _Europe_ (which may be true) and I believe they
are such Subjects, as no Christian King can boast of; for the King of
_Spain_ is able to match the Skins of his _Americans_ to any Colour,
with more Variety and Exactness than a Draper can match his Cloth and
Trimming.
The Account that the _French_ Buccaneers, _alias_ Pirates, gave of this
Place, is so false, that there’s not the least Truth in it; so that by
their Description it would not appear to be the same Place, had they not
left infamous Marks of their being here: For when they took the Town of
_Guiaquil_ about 22 Years ago, they discover’d little or no Bravery in
the Attack (tho’ they lost a great many Men) and committed a great deal
of Brutishness and Murther after they had the Place in their Power,
which was above a Month here and at _Puna_. The Seasons here are
improperly call’d Winter and Summer; the Winter is reckon’d from the
Beginning of _December_ to the last of _May_, and all that Season is
sultry hot, wet and unhealthy. From the latter End of _May_ to
_December_ ’tis serene, dry and healthy, but not so violently hot as
what they call Winter.
Their _Cocoa_ is ripe, and mostly gather’d between _June_ and _August_,
and of the other Fruits natural to these Climates, some are ripe and
others green all the Year. But I return to my Journal, and the Account
of our Voyage to the _Gallapagoes_ Islands.
[Sidenote: _From Guiaquil towards the Gallapagos._]
_May 11._ A fresh Gale at S.S.W. We had upwards of 20 Men that fell ill
within these 24 Hours, and our Consort near 50, of a malignant Fever,
contracted as I suppose at _Guiaquil_, where I was informed, that about
a Month or 5 Weeks before we took it, a contagious Disease which raged
there swept off 10 or 12 Persons every Day for a considerable time; so
that the Floors of all the Churches (which are their usual Burial
Places) were fill’d so fast, that they were obliged to dig a large and
deep Hole of about a Rod square, close by the great Church, where I kept
Guard; and this Hole was almost fill’d with Corps half putrified. The
Mortality was so very great, that many of the People had left the Town,
and our lying so long in the Church surrounded with such unwholsom
Scents, was enough to infect us too.
Capt. _Courtney_ was taken ill, and Capt. _Dover_ went on board the
_Dutchess_ to prescribe for him.
_May 14._ This Day we saw a great many Albacores in pursuit of Flying
Fish, and a very large Albacore[131] leap’d into one of our Boats. We
have now about 50 Men down, and the _Dutchess_ upwards of 70; but I hope
the Sea Air (which is very fresh) will make the Climate more healthy.
_May 15._ At 6 last Night Mr. _Samuel Hopkins_, Dr. _Dover’s_ Kinsman
and Assistant, died; he read Prayers once a Day ever since we pass’d the
Equinox in the North Sea: He was a very good temper’d sober Man, and
very well beloved by the whole Ship’s Company.
_May 17._ This Morning we saw the Land bearing S. S. W. about 10 Leagues
distant. It seems a large Island, and high Land: We tack’d and stood E.
by S. Wind at S. by E. to turn up to Windward for the Island. Our Men in
both Ships continue very ill; we have near 60 sick, and the _Dutchess_
upwards of 80. We had a good Observation, Lat. 00°. 37´´. S.
_May 18._ At 6 last Night the End of the Island bore S. by E. distant
about 5 Leagues. _Edward Downe_ died at 12 at Night. When Day broke we
were within 4 Leagues of 2 large Islands almost joining together, having
passed the other that we saw yesterday. We sent our Boat ashore to look
for Water, and agreed with our Consort where to meet in case of
Separation. They turn’d towards an Island we saw to Windward, and left
us to try this Island for Water: All our Prizes were to stay near us
under Sail by a remarkable Rock.
_May 19._ Yesterday in the Afternoon the Boat return’d with a melancholy
Account, that no Water was to be found. The Prizes we expected would
have lain to Windward for us by the Rock, about 2 Leagues off Shore; but
Mr. _Hatley_ in a Bark, and the _Havre de Grace_, turn’d to Windward
after our Consort the _Dutchess_; so that only the Galleon and the Bark
that Mr. _Selkirk_ was in staid for us. We kept plying to Windward all
Night with a Light out, which they follow’d. At 5 in the Morning we sent
our Boat ashore again to make a further Search in this Island for Water.
About 10 in the Morning _James Daniel_ our Joiner died. We had a good
Observation, Lat. 00° 32´´. S.
_May 20._ Yesterday in the Evening our Boat return’d, but found no
Water, tho’ they went 3 or 4 Miles up into the Country: They tell me the
Island is nothing but loose Rocks, like Cynders, very rotten and heavy,
and the Earth so parch’d, that it will not bear a Man, but breaks into
Holes under his Feet, which makes me suppose there has been a Vulcano
here; tho’ there is much shrubby Wood, and some Greens on it, yet
there’s not the least Sign of Water, nor is it possible, that any can be
contain’d on such a Surface. At 12 last Night we lost sight of our
Galleon; so that we have only one Bark with us now.
_May 21._ Yesterday in the Afternoon came down the _Dutchess_ and the
_French_ Prize. The _Dutchess_’s Bark had caught several Turtle and
Fish, and gave us a Part, which was very serviceable to the sick Men,
our fresh Provisions that we got on the main Land being all spent. They
were surpriz’d as much as we at the Galleon, and _Hatley_’s Bark being
out of Sight, thinking before they had been with us. We kept Lights at
our Top-mast’s Head, and fir’d Guns all Night, that they might either
see or hear how to join us, but to no Purpose.
Capt. _Courtney_ being not yet quite recover’d, I went on board the
_Dutchess_, and agreed with him and his Officers, to stay here with the
_Havre de Grace_ and Bark, whilst I went in quest of the missing Prizes.
At 6 in the Morning we parted, and stood on a Wind to the Eastward,
judging they lost us that way. Here are very strange Currents amongst
these Islands, and commonly run to the Leeward, except on the Full Moon
I observed it ran very strong to Windward; I believe ’tis the same at
Change.
_May 22._ Yesterday at 3 in the Afternoon we met with the Galleon under
the East Island, but heard nothing of Mr. _Halley’s_ Bark. At 9 last
Night _Jacob Scronder_ a _Dutch_-man, and very good Sailor, died. We
kept on a Wind in the Morning to look under the Weather Island for Mr.
_Hatley_, and fired a Gun for the Galleon to bear away for the Rendevouz
Rock, which she did.
[Sidenote: _At the Gallapagos Islands._]
_May 23._ Yesterday at 3 in the Afternoon we saw the Weather Island near
enough, and no Sail about it. We bore away in sight of the Rock, and saw
none but our Galleon; we were in another Fright what became of our
Consort, and the 2 Prizes we left behind; but by 5 we saw ’em come from
under the Shore to the Leeward of the Rock. We spoke with ’em in the
Evening; we all bewail’d Mr. _Hatley_,[132] and were afraid he was lost:
We fir’d Guns all Night, and kept Lights out, in hopes he might see or
hear us, and resolved to leave these unfortunate Islands, after we had
view’d two or three more to Leeward. We pity’d our 5 Men in the Bark
that is missing, who if in being have a melancholy Life without Water,
having no more but for 2 Days, when they parted from us. Some are afraid
they run on Rocks, and were lost in the Night, others that the 2
Prisoners and 3 Negroes had murder’d ’em when asleep; but if otherwise,
we had no Water, and our Men being still sick, we could stay little
longer for them. Last Night died _Law. Carney_ of a malignant Fever.
There is hardly a Man in the Ship, who had been ashore at _Guiaquil_,
but has felt something of this Distemper, whereas not one of those that
were not there have been sick yet. Finding that Punch did preserve my
own Health, I prescribed it freely among such of the Ships Company as
were well, to preserve theirs. Our Surgeons make heavy Complaints for
want of sufficient Medicines, with which till now I thought we abounded,
having a regular Physician, an Apothecary, and Surgeons enough, with all
sorts of Medicines on board. Our Owners believed so too, and did often
at home set forth the uncommon Advantage we had in being so carefully
provided for this tedious Voyage; but now we found it otherwise, and had
not sufficient Medicines to administer for the Recovery of our sick Men,
which so many being sick in both Ships, makes it a melancholy Time with
us.
_May 21._ Yesterday at 5 in the Afternoon we ran to the Northward, and
made another Island, which bore N. W. by W. distant 5 Leagues; and this
Morning we sent our Boat ashore, to see for the lost Bark, Water, Fish
or Turtle. This Day _Tho. Hughes_ a very good Sailor died, as did Mr.
_George Underhill_, a good Proficient in most parts of the Mathematicks
and other Learning, tho’ not much above 21 Years old: He was of a very
courteous Temper, and brave, was in the Fight where my Brother was
kill’d, and served as Lieutenant in my Company at _Guiaquil_. About the
same time another young Man, call’d _John English_, died aboard the
_Haver de Grace_, and we have many still sick. If we had staid in the
Harbour, we should in all probability have lost near half of our Men. We
had a good Observation, Lat. 00°. 14´´. N.
_May 25._ Yesterday at 6 in the Evening our Boat return’d from the
Island without finding any Water, or seeing the Bark. About 4 in the
Morning we stood to another Island, that bore about N. E. distant 4
Leagues, and the _Dutchess_ went to view another to the S. W. of it.
Last Night _Peter Marshal_ a good Sailor died. This Morning our Boat
with Mr. _Selkirk’s_ Bark went to another Island to view it. We had an
Observation, Lat. 00°. 35´´. N.
_May 26._ Last Night our Boat and Bark return’d, having rounded the
Island, found no Water, but Plenty of Turtle and Fish. This Morning we
join’d the _Dutchess_, who had found no Water. About 12 a Clock we
compar’d our Stocks of Water, found it absolutely necessary to make the
best of our way to the Main for some, then to come off again; and so
much the rather, because we expected that 2 _French_ Ships, one of 60,
and another of 40 Guns, with some _Spanish_ Men of War, would suddenly
be in quest of us.
_May 27._ At 6 last Night the Body of the Eastermost Island bore S. E.
by S. distant 4 Leagues, from whence we took our Departure for the Main.
Last Night died _Paunceford Wall_, a Land-man. A fresh Gale at S. E.
with cloudy Weather.
[Sidenote: _From the Gallapagos Islands towards Peru._]
_May 30._ Fair Weather with moderate Gales from the S. S. E. to the S.
by E. We are forced to water the Bark and Galleon every Day with our
Yall: ’Tis a very great Trouble to hoist our Boat out daily; now that
our Men are so very weak. Senior _Morell_, and the other Prisoners, tell
us, that it frequently proves Calm between these Islands and the _Terra
firma_, at this time of the Year, which if it should now happen, but for
a few Days, would very much incommode us for Want of Water. Had we
supplied our selves well at Point _Arena_, we should, no doubt, have had
time enough to find the Island _S. Maria de l’Aquada_, reported to be
one of the _Gallapagos_, where there is Plenty of good Water, Timber,
Land and Sea Turtle, and a safe Road for Ships. This was the Place we
intended for, and would have been very suitable to our Purpose, which
was to lie some Time concealed. It’s probable there is such an Island,
because one Capt. _Davis_,[133] an _Englishman_, who was a buccaneering
in these Seas, above 20 Years ago, lay some Months and recruited here to
Content: He says, that it had Trees fit for Masts; but these sort of
Men, and others I have convers’d with, or whose Books I have read, have
given very blind or false Relations of their Navigation, and Actions in
these Parts, for supposing the Places too remote to have their Stories
disprov’d, they imposed on the Credulous, amongst whom I was one, till
now I too plainly see, that we cannot find any of their Relations to be
relied on: Therefore I shall say no more of these Islands, since by what
I saw of ’em, they don’t at all answer the Description that those Men
have given us.
Nothing more remarkable happen’d till the 6th of _June_, but that
_Thomas Morgan_, a _Welch_ Land-man, died the 31st of _May_; _George
Bishop_, another Land-man, the 4th of _June_; and that we had Advice
from some of our Men on board the Galeon, that the Prisoners and Blacks
there had form’d a Plot to murder the _English_, and run away with the
Ship in the Night. We examin’d the _Spaniards_ who positively denied it;
yet some of the Blacks own’d there had been such a Discourse betwixt
some Negroes and _Indians_, but they did not believe they were in
earnest: So we contented our selves to disperse those Prisoners into
several Ships, as the best Way to break the Cabal.
_June 6._ Yesterday at 4 a Clock in the Afternoon we spied a Sail, and
at the same time saw the Land, the _Dutchess_ being a Mile a Head, gave
chase first, we followed, and about 7 in the Evening the _Dutchess_ took
her; we immediately sent our Boat aboard, and took out some of the
Prisoners. She was a Vessel of about 90 Tun, bound from _Panama_ to
_Guiaquil_, call’d the St. _Thomas de Villa nova_ and St. _Demas_, _Juan
Navarro Navaret_ Commander. There were about 40 People aboard, including
11 Negro-Slaves, but little of _European_ Goods, except some Iron and
Cloth. Captain _Courtney_ sent to tell me, the Prisoners he had knew
nothing of our being in these Seas, and brought no News from _Europe_,
but confirm’d the Story that they expected the Arrival of a Squadron
from _England_, my Lord _Peterborough_, Admiral and General, by Sea and
Land, which was dreaded every Day, and that they were inform’d he
design’d to secure some Port in the North Sea, and send part of his
Squadron to the South Sea. They had a Passenger of Note on board, call’d
Don _Juan Cardoso_, he was going to be Governour of _Baldivia_, and said
he had been taken not long before in the North Sea, by _Jamaica_
Cruisers. We bore away by Agreement for the Island _Gorgona_. This
Morning we saw _Gallo_, near the Shore, a small Island, and the Main to
the North of it, which by the Shore is low Land. Our late Prize ran
aboard the _Havre de Grace_, and lost her Main Top-mast, but did little
Damage to the other Ship. The _Dutchess_ took the Prize into a Tow. We
had a good Observation. Lat. 2°. 00´´. N.
_June 7._ Yesterday at 2 in the Afternoon we made the Island of
_Gorgona_; about 4 the Body bore E. N. E. 5 Leagues.
_June 8._ Yesterday at 4 in the Afternoon we got to an Anchor, about a
good Cable’s Length from the Shore in 30 Fathom Water, on the East side
of the Island; the Southermost point of it in sight bore S. E. about 3
Miles, and the Rocks off the North Point bore N. half W. a Mile and a
half.
_June 8._ At 8 this Morning we spied a Sail to the Southward of the
Island, between it and the Main; our Pinnace being a-shore for Water,
the _Dutchess_’s Boat went first after her, ours followed on the other
side of the Island, that if the Prize bore away, she might meet her on
the West Side. In the mean time I took in Water from the Island.
[Sidenote: _In Gorgona Road._]
_June 9._ Yesterday in the Afternoon our Boats return’d and brought the
Prize with them, being a small Bark of about 35 Tuns, call’d the _Golden
Sun_; she belong’d to a Creek within this Island, on the Main, and was
bound for _Guiaquil_, _Andros Enriques_ Master, with 10 _Spaniards_ and
_Indians_, and some _Negroes_; no Cargo but a very little Gold Dust, and
a large Gold Chain, together about 500 _l._ value, which were secur’d
aboard the _Dutchess_. The Prize design’d to purchase Salt and Brandy
with ’em. The Prisoners said they had no Notice of us, so that News does
not spread in this Country so fast as we believ’d, especially this Way;
the Land being, as I am informed, full of Woods and Rivers, and bad for
Travellers or Posts. About 6 in the Evening there was a Consultation on
board the _Dutchess_, with some of my Officers, Capt. _Dover_ and
others; being discompos’d I was not with them, but resolved to act in
consortship, according to their Agreement. After they had examin’d the
Prisoners, they resolved to go to _Malaga_, an Island which had a Rode,
where we design’d to leave our Ships, and with our Boats row up the
River, for the rich Gold Mines of _Barbacore_, call’d also by the
_Spaniards_, the Mines of St. _Juan_, from a Village about two Tides up
the River of that Name; there we design’d to surprize Canoes, as fitter
than our Boats to go against the Stream; for this Time of the Year being
subject to great Rains, which makes a strong Fresh down the River, our
Pilot, an old _Spaniard_, did not propose to get up to the Mines in less
than 12 Days. I had often before suspected his Knowledge, but according
to their Resolutions on board the _Dutchess_ we came to sail about 12 a
Clock at Night, and steer’d N. E. for the Place. In the Morning I
discours’d Captain _Morrel_, as I had done several Times before, and all
the rest of the Prisoners, who agreed that this Island, call’d _Malaga_,
was an unfrequented Place, and not fit for Ships, that ever they heard
of. I had also 2 Prisoners aboard, that were taken in the last Prize,
who had been at the said Island very lately; I examin’d ’em separately,
and they agreed, that a Ship could not be safe there, and the Place
being so narrow, ’twas impossible to get in, but with the Tide, which
ran very strong; that the Entrance was full of Shoals, and had not Water
enough, but at Spring Tides, for our Ships to get out or in; besides
that if a Ship gets loose (as we must moar Head and Stern) she would
turn all adrift, and very much endanger the whole; they added that the
River was so narrow before we could get to the Mines, that the _Indians_
and _Spaniards_ might fell Trees a cross, and cut off our Retreat, there
being thick Woods on the Banks of the River, from whence the _Indians_
would gall us with their poison’d Arrows; for those about the Mines were
in Amity with the _Spaniards_, and a bold and a very numerous People.
Upon this Information I was surpriz’d that the Council had not inform’d
themselves better before they resolved on going to this Place, and
immediately sent Mr. _White_ our Linguist with the two Prisoners, on
board the _Dutchess_, to undeceive Capt. _Courtney_ and his Officers,
and to desire his Company with some of the rest without Loss of Time,
that we might agree how to act for our Safety and Interest, and not to
proceed farther on this hazardous Enterprize.
_June 10._ Yesterday Afternoon Capt. _Courtney_ and Capt. _Cook_ came
aboard us. We immediately agreed to return to _Gorgona_, to refit our
Prizes, and that there we would come to a final Resolution. We saw the
Island at 6 in the Evening, bearing S. W. Distance about 8 Leagues. In
the Night, we had much Rain with Lightning and Squalls of Wind, by which
the _Havre de Grace_ lost her main Top-mast. This Morning died _Jonathan
Smyth_, a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate of our Ship. I went on
board the _Havre de Grace_ and _Dutchess_, and lent them what was
necessary for their Assistance. Our Men being very much fatigued, many
of them sick, and several of our Good Sailors dead, we are so weak, that
should we meet an Enemy in this Condition, we could make but a mean
Defence. Every thing looks dull and discouraging, but it’s in vain to
look back or repine in these Parts.
_June 11._ We had good Soundings, but came no nearer the Shore than 36
Fathom Water, it being uncertain Soundings, and dangerous for Ships to
venture within that Depth here.
_June 12._ Had rainy Weather, with little or no Wind. At 8 this Morning
saw the Island of _Gorgona_; bore S. half W. distant about 9 Leagues. We
impatiently long to be there again, at an Anchor, being in an ordinary
Condition to keep the Sea, tho’ when there, we are open to all
Advantages against us, if the Enemy is out after us, which we expect,
and that this is a Place they will search, but having no other Place so
convenient, we must run the Risque of it.
_June 13._ About 4 in the Morning we came to an Anchor again at
_Gorgona_, in 40 Fathom Water, and most of both Ships Officers having
some Thoughts of Careening[134] here. We held the following Committee:
_GORGONA_: 13 June, 1709. At a Committee held on Board the _Duke_.