Liquor were now an excellent Commodity amongst our Ships Company, who
are but meanly stor’d: We had six Taylors at work for several weeks to
make them Clothing, and pretty well supply’d their Wants by the spare
Blankets and red Clothes belonging to the Owners; and what every Officer
could spare, was alter’d for the Mens Use. The like was done on board
the _Dutchess_.
[Sidenote: _From Grande towards Juan Fernandez._]
_Jan. 5._ Just past twelve Yesterday it came on to blow strong: We got
down our Fore-Yard, and reef’d our Fore-Sail and Main-Sail; but there
came on a violent Gale of Wind, and a great Sea. A little before six we
saw the _Dutchess_ lowering her Main-Yard: the Tack flew up, and the
Lift unreev’d, so that the Sail to Leeward was in the water and all
a-back, their Ship took in a great deal of Water to Leeward; immediately
they loos’d their Sprit-Sail, and wore her before the Wind: I wore after
her, and came as near as I could to ’em, expecting when they had gotten
their Main-Sail stow’d they would take another Reef in, and bring to
again under a two-reef’d Main-Sail, and reef’d and ballanc’d Mizen, if
the Ship would not keep to without it: but to my surprize they kept
scudding to the Southward. I dreaded running amongst Ice, because it
was excessive cold; so I fir’d a Gun as a Signal for them to bring to,
and brought to our selves again under the same reef’d Main-Sail. They
kept on, and our Men on the look-out told me they had an Ensign in their
Maintop-Mast Shrouds as a Signal of Distress, which made me doubt they
had sprung their Main-Mast; so I wore again, our Ship working exceeding
well in this great Sea. Just before night I was up with them again, and
set our Fore-Sail twice reef’d to keep ’em Company, which I did all
night. About three this morning it grew more moderate; we soon after
made a Signal to speak with them, and at five they brought to: when I
came within haile, I enquir’d how they all did aboard; they answer’d,
they had ship’d a great deal of Water in lying by, and were forc’d to
put before the Wind, and the Sea had broke in the Cabin-Windows, and
over their Stern, filling their Steerage and Waste, and had like to have
spoil’d several Men; but God be thank’d all was otherwise indifferent
well with ’em, only they were intolerably cold, and every thing wet. At
ten we made sail, Wind at W N W. and moderate. Lat. 60,58.
_Jan. 6._ Raw cold Weather, with some Rain. A great Sea from the N W.
little Wind from the N N W. to the West. I and Capt. _Dampier_ went in
the Yall on board the _Dutchess_, to visit ’em after this Storm; where
we found ’em in a very orderly pickle, with all their Clothes drying,
the Ship and Rigging cover’d with them from the Deck to the Main-Top:
They got six more Guns into the Hold, to make the Ship lively.
_Jan. 7._ Fresh Gales of Wind, with hazy Weather and some small Rain.
Yesterday about three in the Afternoon _John Veale_ a Landman died,
having lain ill a Fortnight, and had a Swelling in his Legs ever since
he left _Grande_. At nine last night we bury’d him; this is the first
that died by Sickness out of both Ships since we left _England_. Several
of the _Dutchess_’s Men had contracted Illness by the Wet and Cold. Wind
from the N N W. to the W N W.
_Jan. 10._ Strong Gales of Wind, with Squalls of Rain and Hail, and a
great Sea from the W. We lay by with our Head to the Southward till 12
last night, then came to sail under three-reef’d Courses,[116] and
sometimes the Maintop-Sail low set, Wind from the W. to the N. and
thence to the N.W. We have no Night here. Lat. 61.53. Long. W. from
_Lond._ 79.58 being the furthest we run this way, and for ought we know
the furthest that any one has yet been to the Southward.
_Jan. 14._ Moderate Gales with cloudy Weather, Wind veerable. This day
the _Dutchess_ bury’d a Man that died of the Scurvy.
_Jan. 15._ Cloudy Weather, with Squalls of Rain, fresh Gales at S W. We
had an Observ. Lat. 56. S. We now account our selves in the _South-Sea_,
being got round Cape _Horne_. The _French_ Ships that came first to
trade in these Seas came thro the Straits of _Magellan_: but Experience
has taught them since, that it is the best Passage to go round Cape
_Horne_, where they have Sea-room enough; the Straits, being in many
places very narrow, with strong Tides and no Anchor-ground.
Here I think it proper to give an Account of the first Discovery of the
_South-Sea_, of the Passage to it by the Straits of _Magellan_, of the
chief of those who have pass’d those Straits, and a short Description of
the Country on both sides of ’em.
_An Account of the Discovery of the_ South-Sea, _and of the Straits
of_ Magellan, _&c. from_ Ovalle _and other Authors_.
[Sidenote: _Account of the Discovery of the South-Sea._]
The first _European_ who discover’d the _South-Sea_, was _Basco_ or
_Vasco Nuñes de Balboa_ a _Spaniard_, in 1513. He was the first who
landed on the Isthmus of _Darien_, and made war with their Caciques or
Princes; who not being able to resist his Fire-Arms, and perceiving that
the chief Design of the _Spaniards_ was to find Gold, one of the
Caciques told _Vasco_, that since they were so fond of that which he and
his Countrymen valu’d so little, he would conduct them over the
Mountains to another Sea, upon which they might find a Country where the
People had all their Utensils of Gold. This was the first notice the
_Spaniards_ had of the _South-Sea_. _Vasco_ march’d on till he came near
the top of the highest Mountain, where he order’d his Men to halt,
because he would have the honour of first discovering that Sea himself:
which having done, he fell down on his knees and thank’d God for his
Success, and call’d it the _South-Sea_, in opposition to that on the
other side the Continent, Having pass’d these Mountains, he march’d down
till he came to the Coast, and took possession of it in the name of the
King of _Spain_. When he return’d back, he found a new _Spanish_
Governour in _Darien_ call’d _Pedrarias_; who being his Enemy because he
envy’d the King’s making him Governour and Admiral of the _South-Sea_,
he falsly accus’d him of Treason and cut off his Head, and sent _Gaspar
Morales_ and _Francis Pizarro_ to compleat the Discovery, with a good
number of Men, and large Dogs that were as terrible to the _Indians_ as
the _Spaniards_ Fire-Arms. Here they discover’d the Isle of Pearls, and
forc’d the Natives to fish for them, and then discover’d the rest of the
Coast. The first who found a Passage from the _North-Sea_ was _Ferdinand
Magaillans_, who in 1519 sail’d on purpose by Commission from the
Emperor _Charles_ V. to discover it. In Lat. 52. S. he found the
Passage, which from him has been since call’d the Straits of _Magellan_.
_Pigafetta_ an _Italian_, who made the Voyage with him, says that in S.
Lat. 49-1/2. at Port _St. Julian_, they found Giants whose Waste a
middle-siz’d Man could scarce reach with his Head: they were clad with
the Skins of Beasts as monstrous as themselves, arm’d with huge Bows and
Arrows, and of a Strength proportionable to their Bulk, yet
good-natur’d: One of them seeing himself in a Looking-Glass on board the
Ship, was so frighten’d that he run backward, and tumbled down several
Men that stood behind him. The Crew gave Toys to some of them, at which
being mightily pleas’d, they suffer’d them to put Shackles about their
Arms and Legs, which they took for Ornaments; but when they found
themselves fast, bellow’d like Bulls. One of them, he says, made his
Escape from nine Men, after they had got him down and ty’d his hands.
Other Voyagers say they have seen such Giants in those parts,
particularly Mr. _Candish_, _Sebald de Wert_ in 1599. and _Spilberg_ in
1614. but the Reader may believe of this Story what he pleases.
_Pigafetta_ says the Straits were 110 Ls. long, in some places very
wide, and in others not above half a League over. _Magaillans_ pass’d
’em in _Novemb._ 1520. and being overjoy’d, he call’d the Cape from
whence he first saw the _South-Sea_ the _Cape of Desire_. After rambling
almost four months in the _South-Sea_, where he suffer’d extreme Want,
and lost many of his Men, he sail’d to the _Ladrones_ Islands, and
foolishly engaging 7000 Natives in _Mathan_, which is one of them, he
was kill’d. One of his Ships forsook him as he pass’d the Straits, and
return’d to _Spain_: of the other four, only the Ship _Victoria_
return’d to _St. Lucar_ near _Sevil_, under the Command of _John
Sebastian Cabot_, who was nobly rewarded by the Emperor.
In 1539 _Alonso de Camargo_ a _Spaniard_ pass’d the same Straits, and
arriv’d at the Port of _Arequipa_ in _Peru_; but much shatter’d, having
lost one of his Ships, and another leaving him, return’d to _Spain_.
After him several other _Spaniards_ pass’d the same way, and they
planted a Colony and Garison at the North End, to block up the Passage
to other Nations; but without success, the Garison being all starved or
destroy’d by the _Indians_.
The 15_th_ of _Novemb._ 1577. the famous Sir _Francis Drake_ set out
from _Plymouth_ with five Sail, and having touch’d at several places by
the way, enter’d the Straits the 21_st_ of _August_ following. He found
them very dangerous, because of the many Turnings, contrary Winds, and
sudden Blasts from high Mountains cover’d with Snow on both sides, and
their Tops reaching above the Clouds, and no anchoring but in some
narrow River or Creek. The 24_th_ he came to an Island in the Straits,
where there were so many Fowls call’d _Penguins_, that his Men kill’d
3000 in a day, which serv’d them for Provisions. The 6_th_ of
_September_ he enter’d the _South-Sea_, where he met with dreadful
Storms, and one of his Ships was drove back into the Straits, thro which
she return’d to _England_; as Sir _Francis Drake_ did _July_ 24. 1580.
being the first Sea-Captain that ever sail’d round the World, and
brought his Ship home, which was accounted a great Honour to the
_English_ Nation.
_July_ 1. 1586. Mr. _Tho. Candish_, afterwards Sir _Thomas_,[117] sail’d
from _Plymouth_ with three Ships, and the 6_th_ of _January_ after
enter’d the Straits, having met with a severe Storm near the mouth of
’em. He took the Remainders of a _Spanish_ Garison there, who from 400
were reduc’d to 23 by Famine; and those of King _Philip’s_ City, which
had been built in the Straits, were in the same miserable Condition, so
that they abandon’d the Place. They found Cannibals in some part of the
Straits, who had eat many of the _Spaniards_, and design’d the like to
the _English_, had they not been kept off by their Guns. Mr. _Candish_
was stop’d here a considerable while by a furious Storm and bad Weather,
which reduc’d him to Want of Provisions, till the 24_th_ of _February_
that he got into the _South-Sea_, and bought Provisions of the
_Indians_. Mr. _Candish_ return’d to _England_, after having sail’d
round the World, the 9_th of September_ next Year. He again attempted
the Passage of the same Straits in 1591, but without Success;
[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]
as Mr. _Fenton_[118] did in 1582. as _Floris_ did at the same time; the
Earl of _Cumberland_ in 1586. Mr. _Chidley_ in 1589. and Mr. _Wood_ in
1596. Sir _Richard Hawkins_ pass’d them in 1593. but was taken by the
_Spaniards_; and Mr. _Davis_[119] the Discoverer to the N W. pass’d and
repass’d those Straits, but was forc’d back by contrary Winds. So that
our Countrymen, tho they did not all succeed in the Attempt, yet have
been the most fortunate in passing them of any other Nation: for the
_Dutch_ pass’d them in 1597. with five Ships, of which only one
return’d. Five other _Dutch_ Ships pass’d them in 1614. when they lost
one of them. In 1623. the _Dutch Nassaw_ Fleet, so call’d because the
Prince of _Orange_ was the greatest Adventurer, attempted it with
fifteen brave Ships, and 2 or 3000 Men; but were repuls’d, wherever they
came to land, by the _Spaniards_, so that they could not settle there.
Other Nations attempted it likewise, and particularly Don _Garcia de
Loaisa_, a Knight of _Malta_ and a _Spaniard_, with seven Ships and 450
Men; and tho he pass’d the Straits, he died himself, and all his Ships
were afterwards taken by the _Portuguese_ or others. _Vargas_ Bishop of
_Placentia_ sent 7 Ships to attempt it, one of which only succeeded,
went to _Arequipa_ a Port on the _South-Sea_, and discover’d the
Situation of the Coast of _Peru_; but went no further. _Ferdinand
Cortez_, the Conqueror of _New Spain_, sent two Ships and 400 Men in
1528. to discover the way to the _Moluccas_ thro the Straits, but
without success. Two _Genoese_ Ships were the first that attempted it in
1526, after _Magellan_, but could not effect it. _Sebastian Cabot_ try’d
it also by Commission from Don _Emanuel_ King of _Portugal_, but could
not do it. _Americus Vespusius_ was sent by the same Prince, but could
neither find the Straits nor the River of _La Plata_. _Simon Alcasara_ a
_Spaniard_ attempted it likewise with several Ships and 440 Men, but
came back without performing it, his Men having mutiny’d. All these
Attempts by the _Spaniards_, &c. happen’d before Sir _Francis Drake_
perform’d it.
In the Reports made of those Straits upon Oath to the Emperor _Charles_
V. those who attempted this Passage give the following Account, _viz._
That from the Cape of 11000 _Virgins_ at the Entrance of the North Sea,
to the Cape of _Desire_ at the Entrance of the South-Sea, is 100
_Spanish_ Ls. that they found in this Strait three great Bays of about
7 Leagues wide from Land to Land, but the Entrances not above half a
League, and encompass’d with such high Mountains, that the Sun never
shines in them, so that they are intolerably cold, there being a
continual Snow, and the Nights very long: That they found good Water
with Cinamon-Trees, and several others, which tho they look green burnt
in the Fire like dry Wood: That they found many good sorts of Fish, good
Harbours with 15 fathom Water, and several pleasant Rivers and Streams:
That the Tides of both Seas meet about the middle of the Straits with a
prodigious Noise and Shock; but some of the _Portuguese_, who had pass’d
the Straits, say they are only high Floods which last about a month,
rise to a great height, and sometimes fall so low and ebb so fast, that
they leave Ships on dry ground. The Reader may find more of this in
_Herrera’s_ History: but others differ in their Accounts, and
particularly _Spilberg_ a _Dutchman_, who mentions a Port here that he
call’d _Famous_, by way of Eminency, the adjacent Soil producing Fruit
of various Colours and excellent Taste, and affording Brooks of very
good Water. He mentions 24 other Ports besides those that he did not
see, and particularly the _Piemento_ or Pepper-Harbour, so call’d
because of the Trees which grow there of an Aromatick Smell, whose Bark
tastes like Pepper, and is more hot and quick than that of the
_East-Indies_. The _Spaniards_ having brought some of it to _Seville_,
it was sold there for two Crowns a pound.
The last of our Countrymen who pass’d them was Sir _John
Narborough_,[120] who set out from the _Thames_, _May_ 15. 1669. with
two Ships. He had K. _Charles_ II’s Commission, was furnish’d out at his
Majesty’s Charge, and enter’d the Straits _October_ 22. following. He
says, that from the Entrance of this Strait to the Narrow there’s good
Anchorage, and not much Tide, but in the Narrow the Tide runs very
strong. The Flood sets into the Straits, and the Ebb out, keeping its
Course as on other Coasts. It rises and falls near 4 Fathom
perpendicular, and it is high Water here on the Change of the Moon at
eleven a clock. When he came to the Narrow, he found the Tide very
strong, which endanger’d the running of his Ships upon the steep Rocks
on the North side. From the first Narrow to the second is above 8 Ls.
and the Reach betwixt them 7 Ls broad. He found a Bay on the North
[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]
side at the Point of the second Narrow, where one may ride in 8 Fathom
Water in clear sandy Ground half a mile from the Shore. In the Channel
of the second Narrow he found 38 Fathom Water, and several Bays and
Cliffs with little Islands. He exchang’d several Trifles with the
Natives for Bows and Arrows, and their Skin-Coats. They were of a middle
Stature, well limb’d, with round Faces, low Foreheads, little Noses,
small black Eyes and Ears, black flaggy Hair of an indifferent Length,
their Teeth white, their Faces of an Olive-Colour, daub’d with Spots of
white Clay and Streaks of Soot, their Bodies painted with red Earth and
Grease, their Clothing of the Skins of Seals, Guianacoes and Otters,
wrapt about them like the _Scotch_ Highlanders Plads. They had Caps of
the Skins of Fowls with the Feathers on, and pieces of Skins on their
feet to keep them from the ground. They are very active and nimble, and
when about Business go quite naked; only the Women have a piece of Skin
before them, and differ from the Men in Habit only by want of Caps, and
having Bracelets of Shells about their Necks. They seem to have no
manner of Government nor Religion, live by Hunting and Fishing, and are
arm’d with Bows and Arrows; the latter 18 Inches long, and headed with
Flint Stones. These People Sir _John_ found in _Elizabeth-Isle_, which
lies near the second Narrow. In Port _Famine_ Bay, S. Lat. 53. 35. he
found good Wood and Water, and abundance of _Piemento_ Trees. Their
Language is guttural and slow. Sir _John_ is of opinion, that the
Mountains contain Gold or Copper. He computes the whole Length of the
Straits at 116 Leagues. For the rest we refer to him.
I have insisted the longer on these Straits, partly because they are so
much talk’d of, and partly to justify our going to the _South-Seas_ by
the way of Cape _Horne_, which is far more safe: so that in all
probability the Straits of _Magellan_ will be little frequented by
_Europeans_ in time to come.
The Land on the North side of the Straits is call’d _Patagonia_, and
that on the South _Terra del Fuego_, because of the numerous Fires and
the great Smoke which the first Discoverers saw upon it. It extends the
whole Length of the Straits, and lies from East to West about 130
Leagues, according to _Ovalle_; and before the Discovery of the Straits
of _St. Vincent_, otherwise call’d _Le Maire’s_ Straits, was suppos’d to
join to some part of the _Terra Australis_. _Ovalle_ says, that on the
Continent of _Chili_, near the Straits of _Magellan_, there’s a People
call’d _Cessares_, who are suppos’d to be descended from part of the
_Spaniards_ that were forc’d ashore in the Straits, when the Bishop of
_Placentia_ sent the Ships abovemention’d to discover the _Molucca_
Islands. ’Tis suppos’d they contracted Marriages with some _Indian_
Nation, where they have multiply’d, and taught them to build Cities and
the Use of Bells. _Ovalle_ says, that when he wrote the History of
_Chili_, he receiv’d Letters and other Informations that there is such a
Nation in those parts, and that one of the Missionaries had been in the
Country with Captain _Navarro_, and found the People to be of a white
Complexion with red in their Cheeks; by the Shape of their Bodies they
seem’d to be Men of Courage and Activity, and by the Goodness of their
Complexion ’twas probable they might be mix’d with a Race of
_Flemmings_, who had been ship-wreck’d in those parts. But there being
no farther Account of these People since _Ovalle’s_ Account of _Chili_
in the Year 1646. we believe this Relation to be fabulous.
[Sidenote: _Account of the Straits of Magellan._]
M. _de Beauchesne Gouin_, who is the last that attempted the Passage of
the Straits of _Magellan_, that we have heard of, came to an anchor at
the _Virgins_ Cape in the mouth of this Strait the 24_th_ of _June_
1699. and the Wind being contrary, he lay at anchor betwixt the
Continent and _Terra del Fuego_. He weighed again, the Winds being still
contrary, and on the third of _July_ anchor’d at Port _Famine_ in the
Straits, where the _Spaniards_ had built a Garison, but were forc’d to
quit it for want of Provisions. He observes, that from the Mouth of the
Straits to this place, the Climate seem’d to be as temperate as in
_France_, tho now the coldest Season of the Year in those parts. He
found abundance of Wood for Firing, but the greatest Inconveniency he
met with there, was from the great Storms of Snow, tho it did not lie
long, being carry’d off by Rains which come from the West. He is of
opinion that a Settlement might easily be made here, in a part of the
Country extending above 20 Leagues; and that he was inform’d the Islands
of _St. Elizabeth_ in the Straits are proper enough for Corn and Cattel,
if planted with them. He sent his Sloop ashore on _Terra del Fuego_,
where he saw Fires, and found the savage Natives by 50 or 60 together in
Companies, and some of them came aboard his Ship that lay 5 Ls. from the
shore. They were very peaceable and friendly, but more miserable than
our Beggars in _Europe_, having no Clothes but a strait Coat of wild
Beasts Skins, that comes no lower than their knees, and pitiful Hutts
made up of Poles cover’d with Skins of Beasts; and this is all the
shelter they have against the Extremity of the Weather. They came in
such multitudes to beg from him, as soon made him weary of their
Company; so that he weigh’d again the 16_th_ of _August_, and stopt at
Port _Galand_ to leave some Letters there for those who were to follow
him from _France_, as had been agreed on. And here he observes, that
both the Climate and the Navigation of the Straits are very unequal; and
that from this place to the Entrance of the _South-Sea_ there’s nothing
but extraordinary high Mountains on each side, from whence come very
impetuous and frightful Torrents, and scarce any place for Anchorage to
be found, or one Day without either Rain or Snow. He adds, that he found
an Island opposite to the Mouth of the Strait of _St. Jerom_, that is
set down in none of our Maps. This Island, he says, has two good
Harbours, which may be of great consequence to those who pass this way.
He took possession of it, call’d it by the name of the Island _Louis le
Grand_; the largest Harbour he nam’d Port _Dauphin_, and the lesser,
which is very convenient, Port _Philippeaux_. After having given this
Character of those Straits, he says one may be sure of a Passage thro
them, provided it be in the proper Season, but ’tis very difficult in
the Winter. He came out of those Straits into the _South-Sea_ on the
21_st_ of _January_, 1700. and went to view the Harbour of _San
Domingo_, which he says is the _Spanish_ Frontier, and the only Place
where a new Settlement can be made there, the rest being all possess’d
already. He arriv’d there the 3_d_ of _February_, 1700. and on the 5_th_
anchor’d on the East of an Island call’d by different Names, but the
latest Authors call it _St. Magdalens_ Island. He sent his first
Lieutenant to view and take possession of it, who brought him word that
it was a very pleasant place, and shew’d him some fine beautiful Shrubs
and Pease-Blossoms that he found upon the East side of it; from whence
he conjectures that it may be a proper place to inhabit, tho he owns
that the Climate is very moist, and they have frequent Rains and Mists,
which he ascribes to the high Mountains. He made ready to discover four
other Islands, which lie in view of this Isle and the Main Land, and
sounded as he went on, but durst not venture to go among ’em with so
large a Ship, because there blew a strong North-West Wind, follow’d by a
thick Mist, which made him lose sight of Land; so that to his great
sorrow he could not compleat the Discovery of that Frontier. He adds,
that ’tis full of high Mountains down to the very Sea; but was
afterwards inform’d by a _Spaniard_ who winter’d in those parts, that
there’s a very good Harbour for Ships to ride in, where they may be
moor’d to tall Trees, and that there are very few Inhabitants on this
Coast, but some wandring Savages, like those on the Straits of
_Magellan_.
This and the other Journals convince me intirely that the best way to
the _South-Sea_ is round Cape _Horne_, the Route we pursu’d in our
Voyage.