_Spain_ to _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_, that _Buenos-Ayres_ has only two
Streets built crosswise; that there are four Convents, one of which
belongs to the Jesuits; that their Houses and Churches are built of
Clay, and not above one Story high; that the Jesuits have taught them of
late to burn Lime, and make Tiles and Bricks, with which they now begin
to build. The Castle is likewise of Clay, encompass’d with an earthen
Wall and a deep Trench, and defended by 900 _Spaniards_; tho in case of
necessity above 30000 _Indian_ Horse might be arm’d out of the several
Cantons, where they have been train’d by the Jesuits: But this boasting
Account I can’t believe. They have in the Neighbourhood whole Woods of
Peach, Almond, and Fig-Trees, which they propagate by putting the
Kernels in the Ground: they grow so fast as to produce Fruit the first
Year, and their Timber is us’d for Fewel. The adjacent Pastures are so
fat and large, that many thousands of Beeves feed together; so that any
one when he pleases goes into the Field, throws a Rope about their
Horns, brings ’em home and kills ’em. They are very large, generally
white, and being so numerous, are valu’d only for their Hides, Tallow,
and Tongues; the rest being expos’d to the Birds and Beasts of Prey,
which are very numerous, and frequently destroy the Calves. The Natives
feed most on Beef half-raw without Bread or Salt, and in such quantities
that they throw
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
themselves naked into cold Water, that they may retain the natural Heat
within their Entrails to help Digestion; and sometimes they lie down
with their Stomachs in hot Sand: but their Gluttony in devouring so much
raw Flesh fills them so with Worms, that they seldom live till 50 Years
old. There are such numbers of Partridges here, and so tame, that they
knock them down with sticks as they walk in the fields. The
Missionaries, who are absolute Masters of the Natives in the
neighbouring Cantons of _Paraguay_, &c. suffer none of ’em to come
nearer _Buenos-Ayres_ than two or three Leagues, on pretence that they
would be corrupted by the ill Example of the _Spaniards_; and under that
same pretence they won’t suffer the _Spaniards_ to settle in their
Missions, which extend above 200 Leagues up the River; nor do they allow
Merchants who trade thither to stay above a few days; the true cause of
which is, they are not willing that the Laity should be privy to the
Wealth they heap up there, in a Country which abounds with Gold, nor be
Witnesses to their splendid, or rather luxurious way of living.
Sometimes Complaints of this Procedure of the Jesuits have been made to
the _Spanish_ Governours, but they find a way to bribe them to silence.
This I was inform’d of by those who have been among them, and am
confirm’d in it by Father _Sepp_: He does not dissemble that the
Missionaries have a Despotical Power over the Natives, tho he gives it
another Turn, and pretends that ’tis necessary in order to convert and
force them to work. He says the Jesuits are Captains, teach them the Use
of Arms, and how to draw up into Squadrons and Battallions; which he
boasts they can do as well as the _Europeans_. The Jesuits obtain’d this
Power, on the specious Pretence of reducing those _Indians_ to the
Obedience of the _Spaniards_, which they would not submit to till within
these few Years. This Management is so much the more easily carry’d on,
because the Ecclesiastical Government there is lodg’d in the hands of
one Bishop only and three Canons; and the Missionaries being compos’d of
all Nations, few of them have any natural Affection to the _Spanish
Government_. This is the more to be observ’d, because the Jesuits being
an intriguing Society, and generally in the _French_ Interest, it would
seem to be the Concern of the Allies to recover the Trade of those
Countries from the House of _Bourbon_ with all possible speed, left by
making themselves Masters of the vast Treasures of _Peru_ and _Chili_,
they be enabled at last to compleat their Design of an Universal
Monarchy. Father _Sepp_ says, that Silver in 1691. was cheaper here than
Iron; that for a Twopenny Knife one may have a Crown, for a Hat of two
Shillings 10 or 12 Crowns, and for a Gun of ten or twelve Shillings 30
Crowns; that Provisions are so plenty here, that a fat Cow may be bought
for the Value of 10 _d._ or 12 _d._ a good Ox for a few Needles, a stout
Horse for about 2 _s._ that he has seen two given for a Knife not worth
6 _d._ and that he and his Company had 20 Horses for a few Trifles that
did not cost them a Crown; being only a few Needles, Fish-Hooks, sorry
Knives, Tobacco, and a little Bread. He mentions a Cataract in the River
_Uruquay_, which he says Providence has plac’d here for the advantage of
the poor _Indians_ against the Avarice of the _Spaniards_; who not being
able to go further with their Vessels, have been hitherto confin’d to
_Buenos-Ayres_, and could not settle in those Cantons, tho very
inviting, because of the vast Profit they might draw from them. This he
reckons a great Happiness to the Natives, who being a simple People,
would not only be soon infected with the Vices of the _Spaniards_, but
enslav’d by ’em: for, says he, they make no difference betwixt Pagan and
Christian Natives, but treat them promiscuously like Dogs. He adds, that
this Province of _Paraquaria_ or _Paraguay_ exceeds in bigness
_Germany_, _France_, _Italy_, and the _Netherlands_ put together;
(wherein I doubt he exceeds:) That they have no Cities, and are govern’d
by 80 Colleges of Jesuits, in which there are no more than 160 Persons;
and that these Colleges are from 100 to 600 Miles distant from one
another. There’s one Plain of 200 Leagues long betwixt _Buenos-Ayres_
and _Corduba_ in _Tucuman_, without so much as a Tree or Cottage, and
yet it contains the best Pastures in the World, fill’d with Cattel of
all sorts which have no Owners.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
He describes the Natives thus: The Men are not quite so tall as
_Europeans_, but have thick Legs and large Joints. Their Faces are
round, flattish, and of an Olive Colour; and their Arms are Bows and
Arrows. Some of the strongest have many Scars on their Bodies,
occasion’d by Wounds which they gave themselves when young, that these
Scars may be remaining Proofs of their Courage. Their Hair is black,
long, and as strong as that of a Horse. The Women look more like Devils
than rational Creatures, with their Hair loose over their Foreheads, and
the rest twisted in Locks behind, which hang as low as their Hips. Their
Faces are wrinkled, their Arms, Shoulders and Breasts naked; and their
Ornaments are Fish-Bones made like Scales of Mother-of-Pearl about
their Necks, Arms and Hands. The Wives of their Caciques or petty
Princes wear a sort of Triple Crowns of Straw. The Caciques wear
Doe-Skins hanging over their shoulders; the rest only a piece of a Skin
wrap’d about their middle, and hanging down before to their knees. The
Boys and Girls are quite naked. They have holes in their Ears and Chins,
in which they put Fish-Bones, or a colour’d Feather tied by a thred, and
Feathers of several colours fasten’d to a string round their Necks. They
wrap their Infants as soon as born in a Tyger’s Skin, give them the
Breast for a little while, and then half-raw Meat to suck. He says, the
Men at the death of their nearest Relations cut off a Finger of their
own left Hand; and if it be a handsom Daughter, they make a Feast and
drink out of her Skull. They live in Straw Hutts without Roofs, and
their Utensils are a few Sticks for Spits, and Pumpkins hollow’d out, in
which they eat their Meats. Their Beds are the Hides of Oxen or Tygers,
spread on the ground; but the Caciques, and those of Note, lie in a Net
fasten’d to two Poles for Hammocks, at some distance from the ground,
being a Security against wild Beasts and Serpents. Our Author says that
he sent well-boil’d Meat to several of them when sick, which they
receiv’d thankfully; but afterwards gave it to their Dogs, because they
lik’d their own Cookery better.
It is now time to see how the Missionaries live among those Flocks over
whom they assume the Pastoral Care. Father _Sepp_ tells us, that he and
other new Missionaries were welcom’d by some of them with 20 Musicians
in a Train, abundance of Boats equip’d like Galleys lin’d with
Firelocks, and having Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys on board. The
Missionaries brought ’em Sweatmeats, and all sort of Fruit; and the
_Indians_ diverted them by wrestling in the Water, and Salvoes of their
Fire-Arms, _&c._ They conducted them thro a green Triumphal Arch to the
Church, where the Women were so earnest at their Devotion, that not one
of them cast an eye upon our Father and his Companions: so that here
were a Militant and a Triumphant Church both together. When the Devotion
was over, the chief of the _Indians_ welcom’d the Father and the rest of
the Missionaries, by a short but very pathetick Speech; and one of the
_Indian_ Women did the like with wonderful Elegancy, says the Jesuit,
who it seems is not against Women speaking in the Church. That and the
next day they spent in Mirth and Jollity, and in the Evening were
diverted by four Dances; 1. By Boys, who danc’d with Pikes and Lances.
2. By a couple of Fencing-Masters. 3. By six Seamen. 4. By six Boys on
horseback, who afterwards gave them a kind of Tournament, the place
being illuminated by Ox-Horns fill’d with Suet, for they have no Oil nor
Wax. On _Whitsunday_, which happen’d soon after, the Missionaries went
to Church, and return’d Thanks for so many Converts; as certainly they
had reason, since they are such merry ones.
These Cantons, he says, are 26, and have but one or two Missionaries
apiece, tho they contain from 3000 to 6000 People each, and sometimes
more; so that they must either have too much work, or perform it very
slightly, especially if they be so ignorant as our Father says, that if
they be neglected one day, they scarce know how to make the Sign of the
Cross the next: And besides all the Pastoral Work, the Missionaries must
act the part of Clerks, and clean the Church-Ornaments and Plate; for
these poor Wretches are uncapable of doing it. To be short, says he, the
Missionary must be Cook, Nurse, Doctor, Architect, Gardiner, Weaver,
Smith, Painter, Baker, Potter, Tile-maker, and every thing else that is
necessary in a Commonwealth. This he supposes will appear incredible
(and he’s certainly in the right) but he says ’tis the naked Truth; the
Natives being so stupid, that unless he plainly shew his _Indian_ Cook
how much Salt he must put in each Pot, he would put all into one, tho
ever so much; and he must see them wash the Vessels, unless he would be
poison’d: yet this Father, for all his other hard work, must look after
his Garden, Orchard, and Vineyard, where he has all sorts of Flowers,
Herbs, Roots and Fruits, and so many Vines as produce 500 large Casks of
Wine in a Year, if not prevented by multitudes of Pismires, Wasps,
Birds, or by the North Winds, which sometimes make Wine so dear, that a
Cask yields 20 or 30 Crowns; and after all, ’tis not to be preserv’d
from turning sour without a great mixture of Lime. The chief Distemper
of the Natives is the Worms before-mention’d, the bloody Flux
[dysentery] and spotted Fever, which frequently carry off great numbers.
The Medicines which the Missionaries give against Worms, is a Vomit of
Tabacco-Leaves; and after that, sour Lemon-Juice with those of Mint and
Rue put into Milk.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
These Cantons or Towns, he says, are generally upon an Ascent near the
Rivers _Uruguay_ and _Paraguay_, and contain young and old from 6000 to
8000 Souls. Each Canton has a Church and a square Market-place near it,
the rest being divided into Streets of Clay-Hutts cover’d with Straw,
only of late they begin to use Tiles. They have no Windows, Chimneys, or
different Apartments; and over the Fire-place they hang their Beds at
night. Their Doors are Ox-Hides; and since all lie together in one Room,
with their Dogs, Cats, _&c._ the Missionaries are entertain’d with very
ungrateful Scents, besides Smoke, when they go to visit them. He says,
in the main they are very patient under Distempers, and the Death of
Relations; that they seek after no Riches but a present Maintenance;
that their young Women are marriageable at 14, and the Men at 16, when
the Missionaries take care to match them, otherwise they will pair
themselves. There are no Disputes here about Dowries, Jointures, or
Marriage-Settlements; the Agreement consists only in two Articles,
_viz._ The Woman promises to fetch what Water the Husband wants from the
River, and he engages to provide the Kitchin with Fewel. The
Missionaries furnish them with Hutts, the Wedding-Clothes and Dinner.
The Wedding-Suit is five yards of coarse woollen Stuff for each, the
Dinner is a fat Cow, and the Bed some Ox-hides. He presents them also
with a little Salt and a few Loaves, and then they treat their Parents.
The Women court here, come to the Missionary, and tell him they have a
mind to such a Man, if he will give his Consent; which if he do, the
Match is made, and the Missionary is both Priest and Father.
How mean soever the Natives live, the Priests have enough of Splendor
and Plenty. Their Churches and Steeples are lofty, have four or five
Bells apiece, most of ’em a couple of Organs, Altars, and Pulpits richly
gilt, Images well painted, plenty of Silver Candlesticks, Chalices, and
other Church-Plate; and the Ornaments of the Priests and Altars are as
rich as in _Europe_. They teach the Natives to sing and play on all
Musical Instruments both for Devotion and War; so that according to the
Jesuits they go now more merrily to Heaven than formerly they did to
Hell, and the good Fathers divert themselves with Sets of Musicians on
the Banks of the Rivers and in charming Islands. Nor can we wonder that
they live so merrily, since they fare so well; for besides all sorts of
delicious Fruits and Preserves, they have plenty of Fowl, Fish, and
Venison of all sorts, as well as ordinary Butchers Meat; only the
Tygers, which are very numerous, frequently put in for a share with
them, invade their Flocks and their Followers: but if you’ll believe
our Father, they never attack the Clergy, they have such a Respect for
their Cloth, and are so civil to _Europeans_, that they’l charge the
_Indians_ in their Company, and let them go scot-free; and the Serpents,
which likewise abound here, are charm’d by _Ave Mary’s_ into the like
Good-Manners. The Priests use Honey for their Sallets, for they have no
Oil, so that they are very hard put to it. They had Silver in such
plenty, says the Father, that old Shoes and Hats were much more
valuable. And as if the Missionaries had not Work enough otherwise,
Father _Sepp_ tells us, the Natives when they kill their Cows bring ’em
to the good Jesuits to allow each their share; and to be sure the Hides
fall to the Missionaries, for he says the three Ships which brought him
and his Companions from _Spain_, carry’d back 300000 Ox-Hides, which
they had for nothing, and each Hide he says would yield ’em six Crowns
at home. A good Horse-shoe he says is here worth six Horses, and the Bit
of a Bridle worth three. An Ell of Linen is worth four or five Crowns;
for they have no Hemp or Flax, but store of Cotton: and one Sheep, Lamb
or Kid, is for the sake of the Wool worth three Oxen or Cows. Tho the
Natives, he says, are so dull that they can’t do the most frivolous
thing without direction, yet they are so good at Imitation, that if you
give them Models, they will make any thing very well. Thus he says the
_Indian_ Women after ripping a piece of Bone-Lace with a Needle, will
make one by the same pattern very exactly; and so the Men do Trumpets,
Hautboys, Organs, or Watches; and copy Pictures, Printing and Writing to
admiration.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
But they are so lazy that they must be forc’d to their work by blows, at
the direction of the Missionaries, who tho they convert ’em themselves,
make them cudgel one another. This they take very patiently, give no ill
Language, but cry _Jesu Maria!_ and thank the good Fathers into the
bargain for taking such care of ’em; so that they have learnt
Passive-Obedience to perfection. But to make them amends, our Author
says the Missionaries teach their young ones to dance as well as to sing
in the Church, when they are habited in rich Apparel: so that they are
extremely taken with the Ornaments of our Religion, says he, which
raises in them a high Esteem and Affection; and indeed ’twould be a
wonder if it should not. The Missionaries do now take care to instruct
both Sexes in all necessary Employments, Reading, Writing, _&c._ They
have also taught ’em to make Images, especially of our Lady of
_Ottingen_; and very good reason, for if we believe _Sepp_, she has done
abundance of Miracles there. The Fathers wear Caps like a Bishop’s, and
black Linen Cassocks when they go abroad; and instead of Canes use
Crosses, which have a peculiar Virtue to knock Serpents o’ the head.
The Soil is so fruitful that it produces a hundred fold, tho sorrily
manur’d. The Natives sow nothing but _Turky_ Wheat, and scarce enough of
that, they are so lazy: and are likewise such bad Husbands, that they
would eat all at once, did not the Missionary force ’em to lay it up in
his Barn, where he distributes it to ’em as they want, and so he does
their Flesh. They have no Mills, but pround their Wheat in a Mortar, and
make it into Cakes which they bake on Coals, or boil with their Meat.
The Fathers have white Bread for themselves, which the Natives value so
much, that they will give two or three Horses for a Loaf; and of these
the Missionaries have good store, for they have always 40 or 50 Acres
sow’d with Wheat for themselves: Land, Corn, Cattel, and every thing is
theirs; so that they call all the People their Sons and Daughters, and
perhaps there’s just cause enough to give many of ’em that Title. These
Lords Proprietors assign every Family their number of Cows and Oxen to
till their Ground, and to eat; tho one would think they might have
enough for the taking, without asking any body’s leave: and yet our
Father says he has been forc’d to chide his Parishioners for killing and
eating their Oxen, and roasting them with their wooden Plows in the very
Field while they were tilling the Ground; for which they pleaded in
excuse that they and their Wives were hungry and weary: and yet there
was no great reason for the latter, since their Plows, says our Author,
don’t enter above three inches into the Ground. They need no Hay for
their Cattel, since they go up to the knees in Grass all the year. This
is the way of living in those Cantons, which the Missionaries call
Reductions, because, if you’ll believe ’em, they have reduc’d them to
Christianity by their Preaching, tho the _Spaniards_ could never do it
by their Arms.
Our Linguist told me that the Road from _Buenos-Ayres_ to _Chili_ is
only passable in the Summer Months, when Commodities are purchas’d at
that Town, and transported by Land to _Chili_.
On that Road about 100 Leagues N. W. from _Buenos-Ayres_ lies the City
of _Cordoua_, which is the See of a Bishop, has ten Churches, and an
University. ’Twas founded in 1573. says F. _Techo_, by a Native of
_Cordoua_ in _Old Spain_, when there were 60000 Archers reckon’d in its
Territory, about 8000 of whom continu’d in subjection, but the others
revolted. ’Tis now the Metropolis of the Province, and the Jesuits have
a Chappel in their College there, which for Riches and Beauty may vie
with the best in _Europe_. The Natives of this Country were very
barbarous, made use of Sorcery to satisfy their Revenge, and of Philtres
of their own Blood to gratify their Lust. Both Sexes daub’d their Faces
with strange Colours, and each Village was govern’d by a Sorcerer, who
pretended to be their Physician. To shew their Courage, they would draw
Arrows thro the Skins of their Bellies, and they fought Duels with sharp
Stones, standing foot to foot, and holding down their Heads to receive
the Blows from one another by turns. He that struck first was reckon’d
the most fearful: It was accounted disgraceful to dress their Wounds,
and the Conqueror was applauded by hideous Shouts from the Spectators.
’Twas a long time before the Missionaries could reform those barbarous
Customs.
Another Town on this Road is _Mendosa_, where they make large quantities
of Wine, Brandy, and Oil.
So much for that part of this vast Country which lies towards _Chili_
and _Brazile_: I shall next come to that part which lies towards _Peru_,
and particularly the Road to _Potosi_ and the Mines.
_Santa-Fe_ is the next _Spanish_ Settlement of note to _Buenos-Ayres_,
from which it lies 80 Leagues N W. at the mouth of a River which falls
into _La Plata_. The Country betwixt this Town and _Buenos-Ayres_ is
fruitful, well inhabited by _Spaniards_ and _Indians_, and produces
Wheat from forty to an hundred fold, and abounds with Cattel. The Town
is encompass’d with a River, and built of Brick. Our Prisoners and
Linguist told us that there are Mines of Gold and Silver in the
Neighbourhood, but the _Spaniards_ don’t care to open them, because the
Conveniency of sailing up the River might encourage Enemies to invade
and take them from ’em. This Town was built by the _Spaniards_ when they
first settled, for the Defence of this River.
[Sidenote: _Account of the River La Plata._]
_St. Jago de l’Istero_ 200 Leagues N W. from _Santa-Fe_, is a pretty
Town govern’d by a Corregidore, has three Churches, and lies on the
River that runs down to _Santa-Fe_. Hither the Plate is brought from
_Potosi_ on Mules, because the Roads are bad; and from hence it is
carry’d to _Buenos-Ayres_ by Waggons. Next to this Town lies _St. Miquel
de Toloman_ 200 Leagues N W. Then _Salta_ 150 Leagues. This Town
contains six Churches. Then _Ogui_ 50 Leagues further, which has five
Churches.
_Potosi_ is next, lies N. of the Tropick of _Capricorn_ about S. Lat.
21. Long. 73. Our Linguist tells us the City is large, has ten Churches
govern’d by an Arch-Priest. The Town stands at the bottom of that call’d
_the Silver Hill_, which is round like a Sugar-Loaf. There are 1500 or
2000 _Indians_ constantly at work in the Mines here; they have two Reals
a day, and are paid every Sunday. The Mines are a hundred fathom deep,
and the Silver is grown much scarcer of late. Provisions are scarce at
this Town, and they have no Firing but Charcoal, which is brought from
30 to 50 Ls. distance. They have great Frosts and Snow here in _May_,
_June_, and _July_. _Knivet_ in his Remarks says, in his time they were
well supply’d here with all things from the _South-Sea_, and that the
Natives in the adjoining Country traffick’d in Gold and precious Stones;
and hundreds of ’em ply’d upon the Road to carry Passengers from Town to
Town in Nets fasten’d to Canes, and supported by two or more Men; which
was the easiest way of travelling, and they desir’d no other Reward but
a Fish-Hook and a few Glass-Beads. They have also Sheep of an
extraordinary Size, with large Tails, upon which they carry’d Jars of
Oil and Wine. He says the rich Oar when taken out of these Mines looks
like Black Lead, then they grind it by certain Engines, and wash it thro
fine Sieves into pav’d Cisterns. They make the _Indians_ and other
Slaves work quite naked in the Mines, that they mayn’t hide any thing.
The Curious who would know more of the Manners of the Natives, or the
History and particular Product of this large Country, may find it in
_Gemelli_,[112] Father _Sepp_, and Father _Techo_,[113] but this is
enough for my purpose, to shew what a vast Field of Trade may be open’d
here, and how dangerous it may prove to all _Europe_, if the House of
_Bourbon_ continue possess’d of that Trade.