SOUTH AMERICAN DOMINIONS.
The dominions of Spain in North America having been described as
fully as the nature of the work permitted, our attention is now
to be turned to the acquisitions of that power in the southern
division of the American continent.
The territories acquired by Spanish enterprise in South America
are more extensive than those which have just been treated of;
they reach from the Canataguan chain of mountains, between the
provinces of Veragua and Panama, in the isthmus of Darien, to the
gulf of Chonos; but Cape Vela, the extreme northern point of South
America, being in a higher latitude than the Sierra de Canatagua,
it is usual to reckon the total length from it. This cape is in 12°
north, and the gulf of Chonos in 44° south latitude[A]: thus the
Spanish colonies extend through a space equal to 3360 geographical
miles, while their breadth, taken at a medium, is about 900 of
the same miles. In fact, nearly the whole of that vast division
of the New World, called by the general name of Southern America,
is divided between two European powers, the Spaniards, and the
Portuguese; the Portuguese holding the eastern, the Spaniards the
northern, western and most of the southern part; the colonies of
Great Britain and France being only slips of coast; and even the
unconquered countries are very small, when compared with those
belonging to the two powers first named.
Adding to this immense tract the kingdoms of Mexico and Guatimala,
it appears that Spain possesses in the Americas an empire reaching
from the 39th degree of north, to the 44th degree of south
latitude; or a space included in eighty-three degrees, which is
greater than the length of Africa, or more than five thousand miles.
BOUNDARIES.
The boundaries of the South American dominions are the province
of Costa Rica, in the kingdom of Guatimala on the north-west; the
Caribbean sea on the north; the Atlantic Ocean, British and French
Guiana on the north-east; the Portuguese territories on the east;
the Pacific Ocean on the west; the Atlantic and native tribes on
the south-east; and the native tribes, and desert countries on the
south.
POLITICAL DIVISIONS.
Spanish South America is divided into five governments; viz. the
viceroyalty of New Granada; the Capitania General of Caraccas; the
viceroyalty of Peru; the viceroyalty of La Plata, or Buenos Ayres;
and the Capitaneria General of Chili; these are again subdivided
into numerous provinces, which will be detailed in the descriptions
of the different governments.
ERA OF DISCOVERY.
The discovery of the Spanish South American continent may justly
take its date from the period at which Columbus landed on the
coast of Paria, near the island of Trinidad, and the mouths of the
Orinoco; which event took place in the month of August in the year
1498, and will be related hereafter at length. The discoveries of
particular portions, the conquests and colonizations, will also be
duly noticed in treating of the different governments; commencing
with the most northern, and proceeding gradually, to those which
occupy the southern portion of this great continent; concluding the
whole with a description of the islands of most note on the coasts.
The viceroyalty of New Granada will therefore first engage our
attention.
FOOTNOTE:
[A] The latitude of forty-four degrees south has been taken as
the boundary of Spanish America, because it appears that in that
parallel there are Spanish settlers dispersed amongst the islands
on the west coasts of Terra Magellanica.
_VICEROYALTY OF NEW GRANADA._
BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT.
New Granada is bounded on the north by the Caribbean Sea, and the
province of Costa Rica in the kingdom of Guatimala; on the east by
the government of Caraccas, Spanish Guiana, and Portuguese Guiana;
on the west by the Pacific Ocean; and on the south by the river
Maranon, and the viceroyalty of Peru: its extent from 3° 30ʹ south
latitude to 12° north latitude, is about 930 geographical miles,
its mean breadth being 240.
TERRITORIAL AND POLITICAL DIVISIONS.
This extensive viceroyalty is divided into numerous provinces,
governed by intendants and governors under the orders of the
viceroy.
These provinces are named Jaen de Bracamoros, Quixos, Maynas,
Quito, Tacames, Popayan, Antioquia, Santa Fé, San Juan de los
Llanos, Merida, Santa Marta, Carthagena, Choco, Darien, Panama,
and Veragua; the three last of which are known by the distinctive
appellation of Tierra Firme.
DISCOVERIES.
The coasts of New Granada which border on the Caribbean Sea were
first visited by Columbus during his fourth voyage. Sailing
from Spain to the West Indies, he arrived with his fleet at St.
Domingo, in Hispaniola, where the governor Ovando, from private
pique, refused him permission to enter the harbour and refit his
vessels. This unforeseen occurrence obliged the admiral to stand
to the west; after sailing in this direction for a few days, he
discovered a little island, off the coast or cape of Honduras,
where his brother landed, and traded with the natives. Prosecuting
their voyage, they touched at the Cape itself, then called by
Columbus Cape Casinas, and on which the admiralʼs brother landed
to take formal possession for the crown of Spain: after this
ceremony the fleet proceeded along the shore, and was compelled by
the easterly winds to double a cape, which the pilots performing
with difficulty, gave it the appellation of Gracias à Dios (thanks
to God), because they could now take advantage of those winds in
navigating along such unknown coasts with comparative safety.
Columbus touched at many places in this voyage, at Veragua, Nombre
de Dios, Belem, Porto Bello, &c. At Veragua he sent his brother up
the country to search for gold, and Don Bartolomeo returning with a
considerable quantity; the admiral wished to have planted a colony,
but having made several fruitless attempts, and finding that the
ships were very rotten and worm-eaten, he set sail for Hispaniola
to procure new vessels and supplies; in this attempt he was forced
by storms to run on shore in a creek in the island of Jamaica,
where he propped up the worn-out hulls with shores, building huts
on the decks for the crews. Columbus remained almost a year in
this condition, and from the mutinous behaviour of his men, his
life was several times in danger; this, combined with the fatigue
and vexation he had undergone, seriously affected his health, and
at length, worn out with watching for succour, he determined as
a last resource, to send over a canoe to Hispaniola, with one of
his most faithful followers, and some Indians. These men after
encountering great dangers, succeeded in reaching that island, and
there procured a small ship, (but not without much opposition from
the enemies of Columbus,) in which this great and unfortunate man
returned to Spain, where he fixed his abode at Valladolid, and
closed his illustrious career on the 20th of May, 1506, at the age
of 64. His body was interred in the church of the Carthusians at
Seville, and a handsome monument pointed out the spot where his
remains were deposited; on which was engraven this inscription:--
“_A Castilla y a Leon,
Nuévo mundo dio Colon._”
“To Castile and Leon Columbus gave a new world.”
Ojeda, and Amerigo Vespucci, as well as many other adventurers,
followed Columbus in exploring parts of the coast of New Granada,
and Amerigo gave the first regular description of the people who
inhabited its shores. In the year 1508, Alonzo de Ojeda and Diego
Nicuessa obtained from the Spanish crown, extensive grants in the
territories now known by the names of Guatimala and New Granada;
Ojeda had the country from Cape de la Vela to the Gulf of Uraba,
or Gulf of Darien, included in his charter, which tract was to be
styled New Andalusia; and Nicuessa was appointed to govern from
the Gulf of Darien to Cape Gracias à Dios; the territory included
between these points, to be named Golden Castile, and they left
Hispaniola in the latter end of the year 1510, to assume the
functions assigned to them. Soon after the arrival of Ojeda at
Carthagena, (then called Caramari by the Indians,) he imprudently
attacked the natives, and after a severe action, lost the greater
part of his men, but was fortunately relieved by the arrival of
the fleet of Nicuessa; he then went to the gulf of Darien, and
established a colony on the eastern promontory, which place was
named St. Sebastian; but being soon reduced to great extremity for
want of provision, Ojeda sailed for Hispaniola, having dispatched
another vessel before him to procure supplies and reinforcements
for his new establishment; suffering shipwreck on the voyage, and
losing all his property, he died shortly after of want.
The colony being reduced to great distress, went back to
Carthagena, to endeavour to fall in with the reinforcements; by
great good fortune they met two vessels with their supplies, and
returning to St. Sebastian, found their town destroyed by the
natives; to augment their misfortunes, they run their ships ashore,
but by dint of great exertion they were at last floated, when the
whole colony, by the advice of Vasco Nunez de Balboa, sailed to the
river of Darien, where they attacked and conquered an Indian tribe,
and founded a town which was named Santa Maria el Antigua del
Darien, where they received a further reinforcement by accident, in
November 1510.
In the mean time, Nicuessa, who also suffered great misfortunes,
had endeavoured to establish a colony at Nombre de Dios; a
deputation was sent to him here, to request him to come and assume
the government of Santa Maria; he accordingly departed, but on
his arrival, found that great dissensions had arisen amongst the
colonists, who, instead of appointing him to the government,
put him into a rotten vessel, and sent him to sea, where it is
conjectured, that himself and his crew perished. The province of
Tierra Firme, including both the grants of Nicuessa, and Ojeda, was
given by a subsequent charter, in the year 1514, to Pedro Arias de
Avila, under whose government Vasco Nunez de Balboa was beheaded
on account of a revolt. It was this man who, in 1513 on the 25th
of September, first descried the Pacific Ocean, from the mountains
of Terra Firma, and embarking on its waters in a canoe, explored
part of its shores, on his return making known to the Spanish
nation, the existence of another sea beyond the Atlantic. The first
discoveries of Ojeda in New Granada took place in 1502; in 1503,
Roderigo Bastidas of Seville visited the coast from Santa Marta to
the river of Darien. Thus in these years, the whole shore from the
Gulf of Venezuela to Cape Honduras, had been explored by different
navigators and adventurers.
In 1504, Bastidas resumed his discoveries, and proceeded to the
gulf of Darien to procure gold and slaves; he here found grains of
gold in the sands, which was the first time the metal had been sent
in that state to Spain.
In 1515, the western coast of Panama, Veragua, and Darien, was
explored under the orders of Avila, as far north as Cape Blanco;
and the town of Panama was founded; from this city issued the
conquerors of Peru, Francisco Pizarro, and Diego Almagro, of whom
we shall have occasion to speak at length in the description
of that country; they are mentioned at present, because the
discovery, the conquest, and the colonization of most of the
internal provinces of New Granada was achieved under their orders,
by Sebastian de Benalcazar, one of the officers of the army who
accompanied Pizarro and Almagro in their expedition.
In 1536, Benalcazar attacked the southern provinces from Quito,
whilst Gonzalo Ximenes de Quesada, who had been sent by Lugo, the
admiral of the Canaries, over-run the northern districts from Santa
Marta; they met with considerable opposition from the natives, but
finally succeeded in reducing the country, and the whole was formed
into a kingdom, and governed by a captain-general, in the year
1547; to check whose power, the royal audience was established, of
which he was made president.
In the year 1718, a viceroy was appointed; this office was
suppressed in 1724, and again finally established in 1740.
In the viceroyalty of New Granada, at present, there are two royal
audiences, or supreme courts of judicature. The audience of Santa
Fé has jurisdiction over Veragua, Panama, Santa Marta, Maracaybo
in Venezuela; Antioquia, Choco, and the Llanos, with some others.
The royal audience of Quito has all the southern provinces of New
Granada under its superintendance.
The power of the viceroy is as great as that of the same officer
in New Spain, but his revenue only amounts to the annual sum of
8400_l._ sterling. In the kingdom he governs, the population has
been estimated at 1,800,000, of which there are upwards of 200,000
souls more in the audience of Santa Fé, than in the audience of
Quito. The value of the gold and silver produced in the mines,
annually amounts to 650,000_l._ sterling.
At Santa Fé de Bogota, the capital, besides the royal audience,
there is a treasury, a tribunal of accounts, a royal mint, with
many other judicial and state offices; the court of the royal
audience is formed of five supreme judges, a fiscal, a protector of
the Indians, and numerous subordinate officers. Santa Fé is also
an archbishopric, founded in 1562, having Popayan and Carthagena
as suffragans. This archbishopric is of great importance, the
viceroyalty having been occasionally confided to its jurisdiction
both in civil and religious matters. The president of the royal
audience of Quito is governor of all the southern provinces, and is
subordinate only to the viceroy.
Of the commerce of the viceroyalties in South America, we have very
little correct information; the value of the import trade of New
Granada has been stated as amounting to 1,235,000_l._ sterling,
and its agricultural produce at 433,330_l._ The greatest revenue
which the mother country receives during the most plentiful times,
and when the mines are in the highest state of activity, amounts
only to 108,330_l._; but very frequently the expences of the
administration render it impossible to remit even this small sum.
The gross revenue does not exceed 823,340_l._, as the contraband
trade greatly injures the receipts of the customs in this
kingdom; the vicinity of powerful neighbours who are all of great
mercantile spirit, renders it utterly impossible for the agents of
the government to check this traffic altogether. The Portuguese
goods are poured in from their frontier by the great rivers; the
British from the West India islands, and from Guiana; and thus,
even before the present unhappy struggle, the existence of the
viceroyalty depended entirely on the produce of the mines and of
some few manufactures, with the native products which Europe could
not dispense with. The manufactures are of utility only in its
internal trade, and consist chiefly of carpets, cotton cloths,
blankets, woollens, counterpanes, &c. The natural productions are
the excellent dye-woods of the northern shore, which are reckoned
even superior to those of Yucatan, timber for ship building,
the mahogany of Panama, better and more beautiful than that of
Guatimala or New Spain, chocolate and cacao, from the borders of
the great river Magdalena, and the marshes of Guayaquil; excellent
cotton, some tobacco, cochineal, coffee, and medicinal drugs,
amongst which are the celebrated cinchona, or Jesuits bark, and
contrayerva.
The mines of New Granada are however the objects of the greatest
importance to its commerce. It may be said, that this kingdom is
as rich in mineral treasures as any of the Spanish transatlantic
colonies. In the provinces of Antioquia and Choco, it is alone
richer in gold than any other, and the silver procured here is
remarkably pure; lead and copper are also found, but little sought
after; emeralds and other precious stones are sent to Europe.
Platina, that valuable metal, was long thought to be peculiar to
the province of Choco. Mercury, so useful in a mining country, has
been lately discovered to exist in the province of Antioquia, in
the valley de Santa Rosa, in the mountains of Quindiu, and near
the village of Cuença, in the province of Quito. Salt is obtained
in great quantity, and the kingdom produces many other valuable
mineral substances.
Cassava or manioc root, and maize, form the bread of the
Indians. European wheat is cultivated by the Spaniards and their
descendants, and the tropical and European plants and vegetables
are produced in as much abundance as they are in New Spain. The
rivers and lakes are well stored with fish, and the woods and
plains with game. The animals are such as are common to all South
America, and will be noticed in the provincial descriptions; in
this kingdom the inhabitants breed immense numbers of horses and
mules, which they sell in Peru.
The native Indians are divided into numerous tribes, which inhabit
the provinces, and the widespread forests and savannahs, between
the Andes and the Portuguese dominions. When this country was first
conquered by Benalcazar and Ximenes de Quesada, they were very
numerous, and those who inhabited the ridges of the Andes were
nearly as far advanced in improvement and civilization, as the
Mexicans and Peruvians; from both of whom they were however totally
distinct, being unknown to the former, and but recently subjugated
by the latter. They defended themselves with great perseverance and
resolution against the Spaniards, and it was very long before they
were totally subdued.
Of all the tribes who then inhabited this country, the people of
Quito and the Moscas, or Muyscas, were the most civilised and
the most numerous. The traditions of the Muyscas reached to very
early ages, and the most remarkable point in their history was the
mysterious appearance of their great legislator Bochica, son of
the Sun, who came suddenly amongst them whilst they were disputing
about who should be their king. He is represented as a white man,
clothed in long garments, with a venerable beard, who having
patiently listened to the contending parties, advised them to
choose Huncahua, which they accordingly did; and this chief subdued
the country extending from the plains of San Juan, to the mountains
of Opon. Bochica lived amongst them two thousand years, and then
suddenly disappeared near the town called Hunca, since named by the
Spaniards, Tunja. The kingdom of Huncahua was called Cundinamarca,
and the ruler had the title of zaque, analogous to that of inca
among the Peruvians; but the high priest who succeeded Bochica was
in fact the supreme governor; and his authority has aptly been
compared to that of the Tartarian Lama. The other princes, or
chiefs of tributary tribes were called zippas. Bochica invented
the calendar of the Muyscas, and regulated all their festival; he
divided the day and night into four parts. Their week he made of
three days, and the year was separated into moons; the common year
consisting of twenty moons, whilst that of the priests, by which
the festivals were regulated, contained thirty-seven; and twenty
years formed a cycle.
The language of the Muyscas, which has been grammaticized by
Bernardo de Luga, is now nearly extinct. It is called the Chibcha,
and has neither the _l_ or _d_; its chief characteristic being the
frequent repetition of the syllables, _cha_, _che_, _chu_; they had
words to express the ten numerals, beyond which they added the word
foot, (counting by the toes in addition).
These people were sanguinary in their worship of Bochica and the
gods. At the end of every fifteen years, they sacrificed a boy,
who had been previously educated in the chief temple until he was
fifteen. On this occasion, the priests led the victim with much
ceremony to a column erected in a sacred spot, to which they bound
him, and in the presence of the assembled nation, he was dispatched
by the arrows of the warriors, after which, his heart was torn out,
and offered on the altars of Bochica.
They appear to have known the use of a rude sort of dial, by the
columns which were erected in various places, and to one of which,
the boy victim was always attached; they had also attained some
knowledge in sculpture, as their calendar was engraved on a stone,
and other specimens of the progress they had made in this art have
been occasionally found.
The ancient state of the town of Quito, and the first discoveries
and settlements of the southern and eastern regions of New Granada,
by Benalcazar and his followers, will be treated of under the head
of the presidency of Quito.
_Climate._--The climate of New Granada presents great variety;
the elevated Cordillera of the Andes, and the eternal snows which
cap its summits, render this country, though it lies partly under
the equator, subject to all the cold of the polar regions; whilst
on its low savannahs, the tropical heats are felt with all their
ardour. The elevated plains between the ridges of the Andes, enjoy
a temperate and unvariable climate, and it is in these delightful
spots, that the European colonists have chiefly fixed their abodes.
FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY.
THE great feature of the kingdom of New Granada or Santa Fé, is
that amazing range of mountains denominated the _Cordillera of the
Andes_, which crosses the country from the south to the north, and
as some of the most sublime scenes in that astonishing chain exist
in this viceroyalty, a general description of the whole will be
given here from the latest sources of information.
The Andes run nearly parallel to the coast of the Pacific Ocean, at
the general distance of about 150 miles, and may be satisfactorily
traced from the river Atrato, in 8° north latitude, on the isthmus
of Panama, as far south as Cape Pilares, at the western entrance of
the Straits of Magellan, in 53° south latitude, being a length of
4200 miles. Their greatest altitude is conjectured to take place
nearly under the equator, where the cone of Chimborazo rises to the
amazing height of 7147 yards above the level of the sea, but they
insensibly decrease in elevation towards the province of Darien,
and in running through the isthmus of Panama are nearly lost;
after passing the province of Darien, they again begin to evince
their majestic forms, and dividing North from South America, enter
the province of Veragua, pass to that of Costa Rica, and through
the kingdom of Guatimala, where they again attain considerable
elevation, and in which they are thickly set with volcanic cones.
Leaving Guatimala, the Andes ascend through the viceroyalty of
New Spain, near the capital of which, their summits are scarcely
inferior to Chimborazo, and continuing their immense course, they
pass the confines of New Spain by the province of New Mexico;
entering a wild and unfrequented country, where the elevation of
their peaks is still very great; and they are supposed finally to
lose themselves in the icy ocean of the Arctic regions.
That part of the Andes which crosses New Spain and Guatimala has
been already described. Three secondary chains are thrown out in
the known parts of South America; the first of these is in the
kingdom of New Granada; the second is known by the name of the
Cordillera of the cataracts of the Orinoco; and the third is the
Cordillera of Chiquitos, which province it traverses.
The first branch, or _Cordillera of New Granada and Caraccas_,
bends eastward from the river Atrato, forming the Sierra of Abibé,
and of Cauca, and the high plains of Tolu, and crosses the river
Magdalena. It then forms a narrow chain along the coast to Cape
Vela, where it separates into two parallel ridges; but joining
again, and forming lofty summits, it stretches along the whole
government of the Caraccas, and loses itself in the Atlantic ocean,
at the cape of Paria. Its highest points are in the provinces
of Santa Marta and Merida. The _Nevada_ of the former is 16,000
feet, and that of the latter 15,000 in altitude, and their heads
constantly enveloped in snow. These parallel ridges form vast
plains between their summits, elevated to great heights above the
sea; the plain of the Caraccas being 2660 feet in height. The
greatest elevation of the chain after it crosses the boundary
between New Granada and the Caraccas is near the metropolis of the
latter government, where the _Silla de Caraccas_ raises itself
to the height of 8420 feet, and forms an enormous and frightful
precipice fronting the Caribbean sea.
In New Granada, the main chain also separates itself into parallel
ridges, three of which exist between 2° 30ʹ and 5° 15ʹ of north
latitude. The eastern ridge divides the great river Magdalena from
the plains of the Meta; none of its summits are covered with snow.
The central ridge separates the Magdalena from the Rio Cauca; this
is the most lofty of the three, and its most elevated peaks enter
the region of eternal frost; the three highest are named _Quindiu_,
_Baragan_, and _Guanacas_.
The western ridge separates the Rio Cauca from the province of
Choco; it attains scarcely 4500 feet in altitude, and nearly loses
itself in the province of Darien. These three ridges unite in the
district of Pastos in Popayan, and continue single till they have
far past the equator; when they again separate themselves into two
parallel chains, in the province of Quito, by a valley near their
summits. It is here that they are seen in their most sublime forms,
_Chimborazo_, _Pichincha_, _Illinissa_, _Antisana_, and _Cotopaxi_
ascending to the very skies, their white cones being beautifully
contrasted with the dark blue of the surrounding firmament.
The second branch of the Andes, called the _Cordillera of the
Cataracts of the Orinoco_ extends itself from the great chain
eastward between the 3d and 6th degrees of north latitude, where
the high plains of Tuquillo and St. Martin, with the peaks of
Canavami and Umama are formed; it contains the sources of the
Guaviari, the Meta, Zama, and Ymerida rivers, and forms the
tremendous cataracts of Maypuré and Aturé; beyond these it acquires
still greater elevation, and occupies an immense space, stretching
southward to the boundaries of the Portuguese dominions, where it
is lost in vast and nearly impenetrable tracts of woody country,
over which no European ever trod, as the tribes who inhabit the
region are of a ferocious and sanguinary disposition. In this
gloomy country exist the sources of the magnificent Orinoco, which
have never been seen, either by the civilised Indians, or the
Spaniards. The chain has again been observed issuing from forests
farther to the eastward; it is, however, neither so elevated nor so
broad, and is called _Sierra de Quineropaca_ and _Pacaraimo_, near
the lake of Parimé and the Amazons. It again extends its breadth
a few degrees further east, and bends southwards along the Mao,
where the hill of Ucucuamo, which being formed of shining yellow
mica, deceived the venturous travellers, who fancied they at last
found a mountain of gold. From this hill, called El Dorado, or
the Golden Mountain, the branch stretches eastwards towards the
mountains of French Guiana, where its form is little known, as the
interior of that country is inhabited by Caribs and negroes, who
keep the settlers at bay. The rivers of Berbice, Surinam, Marony,
and Essequibo rise in this part of the chain.
The mountain of _Duida_ is the highest point which has yet been
seen of the Cordillera of the Cataracts; this volcano has not
hitherto been explored, but its height has been found to be 8465
feet above the sea.
The Cordillera of the Cataracts is remarkable for the abrupt
descent of its southern face.
It is said to exhibit no rock of secondary formation, or to contain
any petrifactions or organic remains, consisting only of granite,
gneiss, mica, slate, and hornblende; this however applies only
to the part visited by M. de Humboldt, from the Rio Negro to the
frontier of the Grand Para, a distance of 600 miles.
The third great branch from the main body of the Andes, is that of
_Chiquitos_, between the 15th and 20th degree of south latitude,
which, sweeping from the main chain in a semicircular shape,
traverses the province of the same name, connecting the heights
of Paraguay and La Plata with those of Chili and Peru. The great
rivers which fall into, and form parts of the La Plata and the
Maranon, rise in this branch, but as no satisfactory accounts of
it have been published, it is impracticable to give any general
description of its particular properties and forms.
These branches form three immense plains between their bases, open
to the southern Atlantic Ocean on the east, and shut out from the
Pacific by the great trunk of the Andes on the west; the most
northerly is the _Savannah_, or _Plain of the Orinoco_, noted for
its luxuriant herbage, and possessing only a few scattered trees.
_The plain of the Amazons_, or _Maranon_, succeeds to that of the
Orinoco on the opposite side of the central branch. On this widely
extended tract, forests, coeval with the soil they are nourished
by, extend their gloomy and nearly impenetrable fastnesses,
inhabited only by tribes of savage and wandering Indians, whose
ferocity allies them to the beasts of prey which roam in every part
of the savannahs of the Maranon.
The third great plain is that distinguished by the appellation of
_the Pampas_, or _the Plains of the La Plata_, resembling in some
measure the valley of the Orinoco, being covered with a strong and
luxuriant growth of herbage, and occupied by countless herds of
wild cattle, which are hunted solely for the sake of their hides,
these forming one of the chief articles of the export trade of the
viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres.
The mother chain of the Andes is rich beyond description in
metallic productions, and furnishes several sorts of the precious
stones; but with all this profusion of treasure, it contains
within its bosom the materials of destruction; earthquakes of the
most tremendous nature swallow whole cities, the activity of the
internal fires frequently destroys entire mountains, and leaves
sheets of water in their place, by which provinces are devastated,
and thousands of the animal creation destroyed. Forty volcanoes
have been counted from Cotopaxi to the shores of the Straits of
Magellan, that discharge lava, enormous rocks, showers of ashes,
great quantities of water, liquid mud, sulphur, or devastating
blasts of heated air from their craters.
The most striking features of the southern Andes are these volcanic
cones, whose flanks, beset with frightful crevices of immeasurable
depth, are crossed by the fearless natives, by means of pendulous
bridges, formed of the fibres of equinoctial plants. Over these
frail and tremulous passages, the natives carry the traveller in a
chair attached to their backs, and bending forward the body, they
move with a swift and equal step; but when they reach the centre,
the oscillation of the bridge is so great, that were they to stop,
inevitable destruction must ensue; the native and his burden would
be dashed to the bottom of a precipice to whose profound depth the
eye can hardly reach.
These bridges are, from the nature of their materials, frequently
out of repair, presenting to the shuddering European, who visits
these countries, frightful chasms, over which the Indians step
with undaunted confidence. Volcanoes and crevices are not the
only surprising circumstances which attract the notice of the
adventurous traveller; cataracts of magnificent forms are every
where observed, that of _Tequendama_, near the city of Santa Fé,
dashing a volume of water from the plains of Bogota, through an
opening in the Cordillera, to the depth of six hundred feet, into a
dark and unfathomable gulf. In these mountains, the largest rivers
in the world derive their sources; the La Plata, the Maranon,
and the Orinoco; of which, as well as of some of the peculiar
scenery of the Andes, we shall treat more at large in the local
descriptions of the governments and provinces of South America,
resuming the subject of the present section, we shall describe the
capital of the kingdom of New Granada.
_Capital._--The metropolis of the viceroyalty of Santa Fé, or New
Granada, is the city of _Santa Fé de Bogota_, in north latitude 4°
6ʹ, and west longitude 78° 30ʹ, near the river Funza, or Pati. It
was founded in 1538 by Ximenes de Quesada when he conquered the
tribes who then inhabited this country.
Santa Fé is situated in a spacious and luxuriant plain to the east
of the great chain of the Andes, and between it and its first
parallel branch; though only four degrees from the equator, the
elevation of 8694 feet above the level of the sea renders its
climate rather cold. The city is large, and handsomely built,
containing four great squares, with wide, regular and well laid out
streets. Two small rivers, the San Francisco, and San Augustin, run
through the town, and join the main stream of the Funza at a short
distance; over these rivulets, five handsome bridges are erected.
The cathedral is a magnificent structure, and forms the chief
ornament of the place, which also contains three other churches,
eight convents, four nunneries, and an hospital; the university
was founded in the year 1610, since which time two colleges have
been endowed for public education; and a library was established
in 1772. Besides the above mentioned churches, there are several
others, as well as numerous chapels, all of which are tolerably
well built. There is also a royal mint, several courts of justice,
and state offices, necessary for the government of the viceroyalty.
The city is governed by six regidores and two alcaldes, with some
subordinate officers; their jurisdiction extending over fifty-two
villages in the neighbourhood, which are divided into seven
districts. The inhabitants, amounting to 30,000, are in general
not very wealthy, and most of them are occupied in the internal
trade of the country. They are represented as possessing agreeable
manners, and much good sense, combined with a considerable degree
of industry; the latter quality is manifested by the appearance of
the plain surrounding the city, which they take so much pains with,
as to cause it to produce two harvests in the year. The elevation
of this plain renders the temperature of the air so equable, that
the Bogotians enjoy a perpetual spring.
The viceroy of New Grenada has a palace in Bogota, which is also
the seat of the archbishopric, founded by Pope Julius III. in 1554,
and the court of the royal audience of Santa Fé. In the environs
are some mines of gold, as well as of Peruvian emeralds; salt and
coal are found also in considerable quantities, but the difficulty
of carriage renders the latter very expensive.
The cataract of the Tequendama, by which the river Funza joins
the Great Magdalena, is the most noted object in the surrounding
country. The Funza or Bogota, after receiving the waters of the
numerous small rivers which flow through the great plain, is about
140 feet in breadth, a short distance above the fall; approaching
the crevice through which it dashes, its breadth is diminished
to thirty-five, when, with accumulated force, it rushes down a
perpendicular rock at two bounds, to the astonishing depth of 600
feet, into a dark, unfathomable gulf, out of which the river again
issues under the name of Rio Meta, and continues its course, by an
immense descent, till it joins the great river Magdalena.
In the fall of this river may be observed a strange variety of
climate. The plain of Bogota is covered with crops of wheat, with
oaks, elms, and other productions of a temperate region. At the
foot of the fall are seen the palms of the equinoctial low-lands.
The face of the rock, which finishes and borders the vast plain of
Bogota, near the cataract, is so steep, that it takes three hours
to descend from the river Funza to the Rio Meta; and the basin or
gulf cannot be approached very close, as the rapidity of the water,
the deafening noise of the fall, and dense mass of vapour, render
it impossible to get nearer the edges of the abyss than four or
five hundred feet. The loneliness of the spot, the dreadful noise,
and the beauty of the vegetation, render this situation one of the
wildest and most picturesque scenes that are to be observed in the
Andes.
When Quesada first arrived at Bogota, he discovered that the
inhabitants, whom we have spoken of under the name of Muyscas,
were rapidly approaching to civilization. The xaque or prince was
absolute; his people carried him about in a sort of palanquin,
attended by his guards and courtiers; whilst flowers were strewn
along the ground over which he was to pass. They never approached
him but with an averted countenance, as if they imagined that he
was a divinity, in whose face they dared not look.
These people subsisted chiefly by agriculture, were clothed in
cotton garments, and lived in regular society. Crimes were punished
by judges appointed to watch over them, and they possessed,
property independent of each other, on which taxes were levied
for the support of the government. They had temples, altars,
priests and sacrifices, but their religion, which consisted in
the adoration of the sun, moon, Bochica, his descendants, and the
evil deities, was intermixed with barbarous and bloody ceremonies;
they resembled the Mexicans, with whom they had no connection, in
a particular point of these immolations; the heart of the living
victim was torn out, and supposed to be the most grateful offering
to their gods.
One of their notions of the power of Bochica, and of the formation
of the moon, is singular; and as it relates to the cataract of the
Tequendama, we shall give it at length.
In remote times, when the sun alone gave the earth light, and the
people of the plain of Bogota were savage barbarians, an old man,
totally unlike the natives, suddenly appeared amongst them from the
east, with a white beard and flowing garments.
This was Bochica. He instructed them in agriculture, &c., and with
him came a woman, who, as well as himself, had three names, one
of which was Chia; she was very beautiful, very malevolent, and
overturned every thing Bochica attempted; by her magic she swelled
the rivers and overflowed the plain, so that the people, with the
exception of a few, who escaped to the mountains, perished in the
waters. Bochica, exasperated at her conduct, drove Chia from the
earth, and she became the moon. He then, by the mighty force of his
arm, broke a passage through the rocks, and constituted the fall of
the Tequendama, by which means the lake formed by Chia was drained;
and the plain of Bogota rendered more fertile and beautiful than it
had been before.
The appearance of the plain of Bogota at this moment justifies the
tradition of its having been formerly a lake; low summits appear
here and there like islets; and the whole plain is rendered marshy
by the numerous streams which cross it in every direction.
In the kingdom of New Granada there are two mints, one in Popayan
and the other in Santa Fé. The coinage of the capital is greater
than that of Popayan; the total coined produce of the gold mines in
1801, was 455,000_l._; whilst wrought gold and ingots were exported
to the amount of 52,000_l._; making the value of the gold found
during that year 507,000_l._ This gold is not found by digging,
although many mines with auriferous veins exist, but by washing the
alluvious grounds, and is chiefly collected by negroes.
The provinces governed by the viceroy of New Granada have been
already enumerated. The most northerly of these are the three which
are distinguished by the name of Tierra Firme, or Terra Firma, we
shall therefore commence the provincial descriptions with them.
TIERRA FIRME.
_PROVINCE OF VERAGUA._
The northernmost of the provinces, which are governed by
intendants, nominated by the viceroy of New Granada, under the
general designation of Tierra Firme, is the province of Veragua,
situated to the south of the kingdom of Guatimala, in North
America. This, from its geographical situation, has been already
described in the first part; it will therefore be unnecessary to
repeat any observations on its history or statistics; our attention
must consequently be turned to the province of Panama, on the
south, or rather east of the Canatagua mountains.
_PROVINCE OF PANAMA._
PANAMA constitutes the second province of Tierra Firme, and is
sometimes called Tierra Firme Proper. The most plausible conjecture
which can be formed, as to the reason of its having received this
name, is, that the original explorers, having an idea that a
strait existed in this part of the world, by which a communication
might be had from the Atlantic to the South Sea, were, after much
research, disappointed in their expectations and gave the country
the name of Tierra Firme (analogous to continent.)
The province of Panama is bounded on the north by the Caribbean
Sea, or Spanish Main; on the west, by the province of Veragua;
east, by Darien; and on the south, by the Pacific Ocean.
Of the discoveries of this country, we have already spoken. Tello
de Guzman, in 1513, is said to have given the country the name of
Panama, from having observed the natives engaged in fishing; the
word denoting a place abounding in fish.
_Climate, &c._--The climate of Panama is hot, as may be well
supposed, from its situation, the greatest heat being felt in
the months of August, September, and October, when it is almost
insupportable; the brisas, or trade winds, and the continual rains,
ameliorate the excessive heats during the other months; but at the
same time render the climate very unpleasant.
The soil of Panama is prolific, abundantly producing the tropical
fruits and plants.
Great part of the country is still covered with thick forests, and
the land between the two seas consists generally of abrupt and
broken chains of mountains, one of which chains, the _Sierra de
Canatagua_, on the borders of Panamo and Veragua, divides North
from South America. On the tops of these craggy mountains, the land
is sterile and uninhabited; the cities, settlements, plantations,
and Indian villages, being mostly along the shores of the two
oceans.
The trade of Panama consists in its relations with Veragua, and
the ports of Peru and New Granada. From these it is supplied with
cattle, maize, wheat and poultry; its exports are of no great
importance or value. From Carthagena European goods are received,
for which mahogany, cedar and other woods, with gums and balsams,
are exchanged. The pearl fishery here is at present of little
importance; it was anciently carried on amongst the small islands
in the bay of Panama, and was very lucrative; an endeavour has
lately been made to re-establish it, but hitherto without any
beneficial results.
Part of the European trade of the western shore of South America
is carried on by way of Panama and Porto Bello; but since the
galleons were disallowed, the trade of these two cities has been
comparatively trifling.
The mines of Panama produce so little gold or silver, that they are
supposed not to answer the expence of working.
The river Chagre is the principal stream in this province, and
may be called the high road of Panama, being used as the means of
communication between the eastern shore and the capital. It takes
its rise in the mountains near Cruces, which place is about five
leagues from Panama; the Chagre has a considerable descent, but
is nevertheless navigable for boats up to Cruces; its velocity is
about three miles an hour; therefore the ascent from the coast is
rather fatiguing.
The breadth of this river is about a quarter of a mile at the
mouth, and 150 feet at Cruces; it requires four or five days to
ascend it when the waters are not very high. The distance from the
estuary to Cruces, the last navigable point in a straight line, is
not above 36 miles; but the river winding frequently increases this
length. If the water passage is counted, the sinuosities make it 43
miles, reckoning from Fort St. Lorenzo, which defends the entrance.
It is by means of this river that a communication between the two
oceans has been argued to be possible; the ascent from Cruces where
the river is first navigable, towards the summit of the mountains
is rapid for a short space, after which there is a gentle descent
the whole way to the South Sea.
In the river Chagre are seen numberless caymans or aligators; they
are observed either in the water or on the banks, but on account
of the thorny shrubs and thick underwood, cannot be pursued on
shore. On the borders of this stream, the luxuriancy of the soil is
such, that the trees stand so thick, as to render it very difficult
to penetrate the forests. The barks which navigate the stream
are formed of those trees which grow nearest the water; some of
which are so large, as to measure twelve feet in breadth. These
forests are plentifully stocked with all sorts of wild animals
peculiar to the torrid regions, among which, are innumerable tribes
of monkeys. Many of these creatures are caught for food by the
negroes and natives. To prepare this dish, the body is scalded
in order to remove the hair; and after this operation has been
performed, it has the exact appearance of a young dead child, and
is so disgusting, that no one, excepting those pressed by hunger,
could partake of the repast. It is not at all improbable, that many
savage nations who have been accused of cannibalism, have been very
unjustly charged with it; for according to Ulloa, the appearance of
the monkey of Panama, when ready to be cooked, is precisely that of
a human body.
The peacock, the turtle-dove, the heron, and various other sorts of
beautiful birds, frequent the forests of the Chagre and of Panama,
and the country is dreadfully infested with reptiles, insects, &c.
The province of Panama contains three cities, twelve villages, and
numerous settlements of converted Indians. The capital is _Panama_,
a city and sea-port, built near the bottom of a large bay of the
Pacific which bears the same name. From this city, the isthmus
of Darien has frequently taken its appellation; but at present
is indifferently styled the isthmus of Panama, or of Darien. It
stands in 9° 0ʹ 30ʺ north latitude, and 79° 19ʹ west longitude.
Tello de Gusman gave the country its name from this spot. In 1518,
Pedro Arias de Avila, governor of Tierra Firme, settled a colony
here, and in 1521, it was constituted a city by the Emperor Charles
the Fifth. In 1670, it was sacked and burnt by Morgan, an English
adventurer, who had already reduced Porto Bello and Maracaybo; he
debarked at the mouth of the Chagre, reducing the fort there after
an obstinate defence, and ascending the river, landed again at
Cruces and marched to Panama, where after several skirmishes, he
entered the city; the inhabitants flying to the woods. Soon after
he left the place it was burnt down, but whether by accident or
design is not known. The inhabitants resolved to rebuild the town
at about a league and a half distance from where it first stood,
and in a more convenient situation. It was then enclosed with a
regular stone rampart; the houses were chiefly of wood with tiled
roofs, having but one story, but of a very handsome appearance;
and outside of the walls was a large suburb. In 1737, a fire
commenced in a house where tar, naptha, and brandy, were stored;
the devouring element was so rapid in its progress, that the city
of Panama was entirely consumed in a very short time, with the
exception of the suburb, which was saved, it being totally detached
from the town. Panama was rebuilt shortly afterwards a second time,
and the inhabitants having excellent quarries in the vicinity,
erected their houses chiefly of stone; but it suffered again from
fire in 1756, and in 1784 it was nearly destroyed by another
dreadful conflagration.
The governor of Panama was formerly captain-general of Tierra
Firme, and president of a court of royal audience, which has lately
been removed to Santa Fé de Bogota. The city of Panama is the
see of a bishop, who is subject to the control of the archbishop
of Lima; but as he receives no tithes, is paid out of the royal
coffers. A municipal council governs the district of the city; a
treasury, custom-house, &c. are established there, and when the
galleons came from Lima, Panama, and Porto Bello, might be said to
have been the Acapulco and Vera Cruz of South America.
The cathedral is a handsome edifice of stone, as are the churches,
convents, monasteries, and an excellent hospital.
The streets are broad and paved, both in the city and its suburbs,
but the houses of the suburbs are mostly of wood, intermixed with
thatched huts. Such is the spirit of trade of this place, that
every person is engaged in bartering. The people of Panama, have
a disagreeable drawling method of speaking, and appear as if they
were overcome by the great heat of the climate; they nevertheless
are really healthy, and live in general to a good age.
One of the favourite articles of food among the lower classes, and
much used with the higher, is an amphibious animal of the lizard
tribe, called the guana, about three feet long, of a yellowish
green colour, having a bright yellow belly, with strong claws on
its toes, its back covered with thin scales, and a serrated ridge
running along the superior surface of the body and tail. It lays
from fifty to sixty eggs, as large as those of a pigeon, which are
esteemed great delicacies; these eggs are attached to each other
by a fine membrane, and form a string or chaplet. The flesh, when
dressed, is as white as that of a chicken, and greatly resembles it
in taste; it is served with lime-juice, cayenne-pepper, or other
high sauces.
Panama is now only remarkable for its fine bay, which is studded
with islands; and amongst these is formed the road where the ships
from the southern ports anchor in safety, particularly before the
islands of Perico, Naos, and Flamingos; the distance of this road
is two and a-half, or three leagues from the town.
The tide rises and falls from thirteen to sixteen feet at Panama,
whilst at Porto Bello, the flux and reflux amounts to only as many
inches. The Bay of Panama is famous for the pearl oyster, and the
shoals near the islands del Rey, Tabago, and about forty others
which form a small archipelago, formerly produced pearls as fine
as could be procured in any part of the world. On these islands,
huts were built for the divers, who were mostly negroes, and boats
holding from eight to ten people, went out to the banks, which were
not more than fifteen fathoms under water. The divers, provided
with a rope tied to their bodies, and a small weight attached,
plunged into the ocean; on arriving at the bottom, they seized a
shell in the left hand, which they put under the arm, a second
in the same hand, a third in the right, and sometimes one in the
mouth; they then re-ascended to breathe and to put the fish in a
bag.
In this practice, the unfortunate slaves were frequently destroyed
by the sharks, mantas, &c. The manta is a large, flat fish of
great size, which wraps its fins round the object it seizes, and
presses it to death. The negroes usually carry a knife to defend
themselves, but notwithstanding this protection, as well as that
of their comrades in the boats, numbers were annually devoured by
these horrid fish.
The Isla del Rey, was first discovered by Pizarro; it was for a
long time inhabited during the fishery, but whether it is or not at
present, is not known.
The next city of importance in this province is _Porto Bello_, or
_Puerto Bello_, on the shores of the Caribbean sea, or Spanish
main, in north latitude 10° 27ʹ, and west longitude 79° 26ʹ. The
harbour of Porto Bello, as its name, (Fine Port,) indicates, is an
excellent one, and was first discovered by Columbus, on the 2d of
November 1502, who was so charmed with it, that he gave it the name
it now bears.
The town of Porto Bello was founded by order of Philip II., who
directed the settlers at Nombre de Dios, or Bastimentos, to remove
to this spot in 1584, on account of its admirable situation for the
commerce of the country; it stands near the sea, on the side of a
mountain which embraces the harbour.
The entrance of the harbour is defended by a castle, called Todo
Hierro, or all Iron, on the north point, where the channel is about
three-quarters of a mile broad. The south side is covered with
dangerous shoals, so that vessels are obliged to keep near the
castle; and opposite to the anchoring ground on the south side, is
another fort, called Castillo de la Gloria, between which and the
town, a point of land projects into the basin, on which formerly
stood Fort St. Jerome. Opposite to the town on the north-west, is
another small and perfectly secure bay, where vessels are careened.
The whole town and harbour being surrounded with high land, renders
it a very safe place for shipping, particularly as this part of the
Spanish main is subject to terrible storms. The mountains in the
neighbourhood are of such an elevation, that one of them, called
Monte Capiro, is constantly covered with thick dark clouds on its
summit.
A small river which discharges itself into the harbour near the
town, is salt to the distance of a quarter of a league from its
estuary; this river is called the Cascajal.
The country in the neighbourhood of Porto Bello is very thinly
inhabited; a few farms are found in the valleys, but the mountains
are covered with thick and impenetrable forests, tenanted solely by
wild animals.
The climate of this city is very unhealthy, as the heat is
excessive, owing to the stagnation of the air by the wall of
mountains enveloping the harbour. The humid exhalations from the
forests cause frequent rains, which, though of short duration, pour
down with astonishing violence. The nights are as suffocating as
the days, accompanied with torrents of rain, bursts of thunder,
and flashes of lightning, which fill the mind of an European on his
first arrival with dread and horror. The caverns in the adjacent
rocks re-echo the percussions of the thunders, and add to the
dreadful noise, which is accompanied by the howlings of animals,
particularly the monkeys.
The natives, as well as the Europeans, are carried off in great
numbers by the fevers generated by the unhealthiness of the air,
and it is this which will ever prevent Porto Bello from becoming
a large city; no one living here, but those engaged in government
offices, or in trade.
It is supplied with provisions from Carthagena, and fish of
every quality are caught in the bay. Its manufactures are
unimportant; but there are some sugar-houses in the town, where an
inconsiderable quantity of that article is made. The great luxury
at Porto Bello consists in the numerous streams of fresh water
which pour down from the hills into the town; they are said however
to be unwholesome, and to produce dysentery, if too freely used.
Little reservoirs are formed here and there, shaded by trees, and
in these the inhabitants bathe themselves every day.
Jaguars, and other animals, are said to enter Porto Bello during
the night, and to carry off any domestic animals they meet with.
They are slain in the woods by the negroes and Indians, who hunt
them for the sake of a trifling reward, which is paid on their
destruction.
The sloth is an animal very common in the vicinity of this city.
Its habits are well known. Serpents of every deadly nature are
extremely numerous. Frogs and toads are seen in such numbers after
the showers, that the natives say every drop of water is changed
into one of those nauseous animals. The country about Porto Bello,
resembles in this instance the British settlements in some parts
of North America, where toads and frogs cover the land after any
humidity.
The city of Porto Bello is also called _San Felipe de Puerto
Bello_; it consists of one principal street, extending along the
shore, and crossed by several others up the side of the mountain.
In it are two squares, two churches, two convents, a custom-house,
and some other public buildings; at the east end of the town, in
the quarter called Guinea, are the habitations of the free and
enslaved negroes.
Formerly, when the galleons were permitted, this place had an
annual fair, and was then excessively crowded with people. The
houses at present are chiefly of wood with a few of stone, and the
better sort do not amount to 150. This city is sixty miles north of
Panama, and its climate is said to have been wonderfully improved
by a cut which has been lately made through a neighbouring hill to
admit a current of air. The governor, Don Vincente Emparan, has
also levelled great part of the forests which formerly reached to
the very gates of the town.
Sir Francis Drake took this place in 1596, and died in a subsequent
voyage in its harbour.
When Porto Bello was taken and plundered by John Morgan, the town
was ransomed for a large sum, which prevented his burning it.
In 1739, Admiral Vernon with six ships entered the harbour and
made himself master of the place, after demolishing the forts. He
afterwards bombarded Carthagena, and took Fort Chagre, near the
mouth of the river of that name.
The population of Porto Bello is inconsiderable, being chiefly
negroes and mulattoes, with about thirty white families, and the
garrisons of the forts.
The third city of Panama is _St. Jago de Nata de los Cavalleros_,
or _Nata_, so named from the Prince, or cacique, who reigned over
this part of the province when it was explored in 1515 by Alonzo
Perez de la Rua.
It is situated near the extremity of the Canataguan chain, fifty
miles south-west of Panama, in north latitude 8° 35ʹ, and west
longitude 81° 6ʹ, in a bay on the borders of the Pacific, which
extends to the island Iguenas; it was founded by Gaspar de
Espinosa, but the Indians burnt and plundered it shortly after its
first erection; he again rebuilt it with the title of city.
At present it is a large place, the houses of which are built of
unburnt bricks and mud. The inhabitants are a mixture of Spaniards
and Indians; near it is a town called _Los Santos_, which has been
built by people from Nata, for the sake of the excellent soil in
its vicinity, on which they have formed extensive plantations.
The population of this town is greater than that of the city of
Nata, and also consist of Spaniards and Indians.
In the province of Panama, there are many villages, and farms, some
of which are inhabited by the Europeans and their descendants, and
others by the Indians who have been converted.
_PROVINCE OF DARIEN._
The third and last province of Tierra Firme is that of Darien,
bounded on the north by the Spanish Main, or Caribbean Sea, on the
east by Carthagena, west by Panama, and south by the Pacific Ocean,
and the province of Choco.
Darien is one of the largest provinces of Terra Firma; it is about
200 miles long and 80 broad, but is very thinly inhabited, and
that almost wholly by the native tribes. The unhealthiness of the
climate and the impenetrable forests preventing the formation of
European settlements.
The valleys in Darien are so marshy, from the overflowing of the
numerous rivers that the savages build their habitations in the
branches of high trees. These rivers are in many parts very large,
but most of them are not navigable, owing to the shoals, bars,
and rapids in which they abound; most of them, however, roll down
grains of gold.
A small fort which protects the gold mines of _Cana_ is the
principal station of the Spaniards on the frontiers of Choco; its
garrison is sent from Panama every month. _Santa Maria el Antigua
del Darien_ was the first settlement of the Spaniards on the
Atlantic coast, but as it did not flourish, it was soon abandoned.
The chief products of this province are cotton and tobacco; it may,
however, be said to be now wholly in the power of the natives, who
are scattered over the whole country, and amount to about 30,000
souls, with whom the Spaniards have been frequently at war, but
have as yet gained no sensible advantages. In 1786, the viceroy
of New Granada sent a formidable expedition against them, but the
troops being unable to bear the inclemency of the climate, the army
returned to Bogota without effecting any thing.
The gulf of Darien which is the mouth of the Rio Atrato, or rather
a large arm of the sea, is the most important part of the northern
coast, and contains several islands of considerable size. The river
Atrato though very wide, has many shoals at its mouth, yet serves
to export much of the internal produce of some of the settlements
in the neighbouring provinces; its mouth is a noted smuggling
station, where European goods are exchanged for the gold of Choco.
The capital is _Santa Cruz de Cana_, which we have mentioned; it
was formerly a very considerable place, and there were nine other
towns or missions, with several farms and hamlets, but most of
these have been abandoned, owing to the ferocity of the Indians,
and other causes. The Scotch once endeavoured to form a permanent
settlement in this country; a company was chartered at Edinburgh,
called the Scots Darien Company in 1695. In 1698 they fitted out a
small armament, in the vessels of which were embarked a numerous
body of colonists, with a governor, &c. and arriving on the
Isthmus, they formed a settlement in a fine port on the north-west
shore, in north latitude 9° 30ʹ, west longitude 77° 36ʹ, to which
they gave the name of _New Caledonia_. Here several families were
settled, but the Spanish government being alarmed, the British
court refusing to acknowledge this act, and the success of the
adventurers becoming daily greater, a force was sent against them,
by which means they were ejected from the country in the latter end
of the year 1699, or beginning of 1700.
_PROVINCE OF CARTHAGENA._
The next province of New Granada, in passing eastward from Tierra
Firme, is Carthagena, so named from its capital: it is bounded on
the north by the Spanish main, east by the great river Magdalena,
south by the province of Antioquia, and west by the river and
province of Darien. Its extent from east to west may be computed at
fifty-three leagues, and from north to south at eighty-five.
This space is covered with mountains, savannahs and forests. The
great plains or savannahs are those named _Zinu_, _Zamba_, _Tolu_,
_Mompox_, _Barancas_, &c., all of which are highly fruitful valleys
between the ridges of the hills. The settlements of the Europeans
and natives are chiefly on the coast, or in these valleys; the
hills and rivers are supposed to have formerly furnished much gold,
with which a trade was carried on with the neighboring countries;
and gold is said to have been so plentiful, that the natives were
always ornamented with trinkets composed of that metal.
The soil of this province is very luxuriant, especially near the
capital where it produces every thing in the greatest plenty. The
trees attain an immense bulk, and form by their shades, pleasing
retreats from the scorching rays of the sun. The mahogany or
acajou, of which the canoes of the natives are formed, the white
and red cedar, the maria, the balsam tree which yields an oil,
the celebrated balsam of Tolu (so called from a town where it is
gathered), the tamarind, the medlar, the sapote, papayo or papaw,
guayubo, cassia, palm, and mançanillo, are a few of the species
whose wood, fruit or sap, are so precious. The mançanillo derives
its name from the Spanish word _mançan_, an apple, the fruit
resembling the European apple in shape, colour and taste, but is
of a poisonous nature; the juice of this tree is so acrid, that
it blisters the skin of those employed in felling it, and it is
reckoned dangerous to remain under its shade after a shower, as the
droppings of its leaves have the same caustic quality.
The palms are of many different species, and form, by their broad
and spreading leaves, elevated on lofty trunks, the great beauty of
the scenery; of these, the produce is chiefly cocoa-nuts, dates and
palm wine. The sensitive plant grows to the height of a foot and a
half in the woods of Carthagena.
In its vast forests numerous tribes of wild animals are found;
of these the jaguar or tiger, and the American leopard are very
destructive to the cattle and domestic animals; the former grows
to an amazing size, and is extremely ferocious; wild boars, foxes,
armadilloes, squirrels, deer, rabbits and monkeys are produced in
great plenty, most of which are eaten by the Indians and negroes
whenever they catch them. The cattle and swine of this province
are very numerous; their flesh, when salted, forms the principal
article of commerce and of food.
Wild geese are caught in the lakes by means of an entertaining
stratagem; in the places they frequent, the Indians put calabashes
or gourds, which constantly floating on the surface of the water,
cause no alarm to the geese, and when they are sufficiently
accustomed to see them, the Indian gets into the water at a
distance from the flock with a gourd over his head; he then
advances amongst them, and draws them by the legs under the
surface, until he has procured as many as he wants.
The birds of this province are both numerous and beautiful; amongst
them the toucan with its large bill, the gallinazo vulture, which
clears the country of all carcases or offensive matter, and the
guacamayo or macaw, with its beautiful plumage and disagreeable
voice, are the most singular.
Bats are so numerous in the city that they cover the streets in
an evening in clouds, and there is not a house in which these
nocturnal birds are not found. Of these the most formidable is
the vampyre, which, according to the authority of Ulloa and other
travellers, has been known to suck the blood of a sleeping person,
at the same time fanning its victim with its broad wings.
The insects and reptiles peculiar to the climate are as numerous
as the birds and beasts. Of these the centipede, the scorpion,
the spider; and amongst the serpents, the rattle snake, the dart,
and the dreadful corales, or coral snakes, are the most venomous,
the bite of the latter being rarely cured. Whilst the feet of
the pedestrian are insecure from the attacks of these dreadful
creatures, his face is exposed to the venom of the mosquitoes,
which attain a great size, and are exceeding troublesome.
The beds of the inhabitants of Carthagena are surrounded with gauze
curtains to protect the sleeper from these insects, but this is
unavailing; for another and almost imperceptible enemy creeps in
through the threads, and annoys any part of the body which may be
exposed; these are called manta blancas, or white cloaks (by their
forming a cloud in the air of that colour); they cause no other
pain than an intolerable itching.
The pique is also another disagreeable insect of this country,
which penetrates the skin of the feet or hands, and causes
intolerable pain; this animal it well known in the West Indies
under the name of jigger, or chigoe.
Goods which belong to the merchants of Carthagena are frequently
destroyed in a short time by a sort of moth, which perforates, in a
single night, through and through the finest bales of cloth, linen,
silks or laces; the only way they have of preventing this is to
place them on benches away from the walls, and to smear the feet or
supports with naptha.
The country produces neither wheat nor barley, but maize and rice
in great plenty. Of the maize they form a kind of bread called
bollo, which is used by the natives and Europeans; the negroes
make greater use of the cassava bread, made from roots; in fact
it is their chief food; whilst the opulent families use the flour
of European wheat, imported from Spain. Sugar-cane plantations
are very common, and rum is distilled in small quantities. The
cotton-tree is cultivated, and the cacao of Carthagena is said to
excel that of the Caraccas, both in its size and goodness.
Besides melons, grapes, oranges, dates, and fruits of other climes;
the pine-apple, the plantain, banana, papaws, yams, mameis,
sapotes, &c., grow here in great luxuriance, and afford, during
the whole year, a great part of the nourishment of the people. The
banana is a fruit something resembling in shape and appearance a
cucumber; they are roasted, sliced, and served with brandy and
sugar. The papaws resemble a lemon with a green rind, very juicy,
and of a gentle acid taste. This fruit grows on a tree. The banana
and plantain, like the pine-apple, are the produce of a shrub.
The guanabana resembles a melon in appearance and taste, but
grows on a tree; the sapote is round, and about two inches in
circumference, with a loose thin rind of a brown colour streaked
with red; the inside of a bright red, and containing a little juice
of a viscid nature; but as this fruit consists in its edible parts
of many tough fibres, it is far from excellent. The mameis are of
the same colour with the sapotes, only rather lighter; their rind
adheres more firmly; they also contain a hard stone, and are in
taste not unlike a plum.
The sutiles, or limes, are well known; their chief use is in
cooking, the meat used by the settlers being always soaked in
their juice, if intended to be roasted, or the juice is put into
the water, if it is to be boiled; by which means the flesh is so
softened, that it can be thoroughly done in an hour at farthest.
The country abounds in tamarinds, and produces all the other fruits
common to the West Indies.
The want of oil is felt occasionally in Carthagena, as well as that
of wine, when the supply from Spain does not arrive at the expected
times. The inhabitants always make use of tallow-candles instead of
lamps, and hogsʼ-lard for most of the things which oil and butter
are required for. The tables of the higher classes are served with
great splendour.
The inhabitants of this class usually make two meals a day, and a
slight repast. Their breakfast generally consists of fried meats,
pastry made of maize-flour, with chocolate. The dinner is of a more
substantial nature, consisting of several meats, birds, &c., all of
which they season highly with pimento; fruits and wines finish that
meal, whilst at night, the regale consists only of sweetmeats and
chocolate.
The Magdalena and the Cauca are the most important rivers in this
province; but the great river Magdalena, dividing the province
of Carthagena from that of Santa Marta, we shall have occasion
to mention it more particularly in the description of the latter
province. The Cauca flows partly through Carthagena, and joins the
Magdalena below Mompox.
This country was first discovered by Rodrigo de Bastidas, who
in 1502 visited the bay and coast, then called Caramari by the
natives; in 1504, Juan de la Cosa, and Cristoval Guerra, began
the war against the Indians, whose martial disposition afforded
insurmountable obstacles to the conquest of the country; even the
women fought against the invaders; their arms were poisoned arrows,
so that the slightest wound proved fatal.
Alonzo de Ojeda, and Juan de la Cosa, again attacked these devoted
people, but made no impression; they were followed by Gregorio
Hernandez de Oviedo, who met with the same fortune; Don Pedro de
Heredia, at last undertook the conquest of this country, and after
meeting with some reverses, finally subdued the Indians in the year
1533, when he established the city of Carthagena.
The small ridge of the Andes which divides the bed of the Magdalena
from the river of Darien, or Atrato, loses itself in this province;
it is no-where of any great elevation.
The capital of the province is Carthagena, situated on a small
peninsula, or sandy island, joined to some others and the continent
by two artificial necks of land, the broadest of which is about
seventy yards wide. This city stands in north latitude 10° 26ʹ 35ʺ,
and in west longitude 75° 26ʹ 45ʺ.
The suburb, which is almost as large as the city itself, is placed
on an island near the town, and has communication with it by means
of a bridge. This suburb is called Xexemani, and is surrounded as
well as the city with strong fortifications of freestone, built in
the modern manner: at a small distance from the town on the main
land, on a hill which commands both the fortifications, is a strong
fort called St. Lorzaro; this hill is near 150 feet in height,
and communicates with several others towards the east, which are
still more elevated; they terminate in a mountain 552 feet above
the sea, on the summit of which is the convent of the Augustins
called Nuestra Senora de la Popa. From this place there is a most
delightful prospect over an immense tract of country.
The bay of Carthagena is one of the largest, as well as one of
the best on the whole coast; it extends two leagues and a-half
from north to south, has capital anchorage, and being completely
landlocked, is so smooth, that vessels ride as if they were on a
river; the only fault of this bay, but which constitutes its chief
defence, are numerous shoals near its entrance; these render it
necessary to secure a good pilot in coming in. The entrance to it
was formerly a considerable distance to the south of the city,
through the strait of Bocca Chica, (or narrow mouth,) but since the
attempt of Admiral Vernon on this port, the pass has been filled
up, and a more commodious one, which formerly existed, has again
been opened close to the place, and strongly fortified. Carthagena
Bay abounds with fish and excellent turtles; and sharks are so
numerous, as to render bathing highly dangerous.
The climate of the city and its environs is exceeding hot during
the whole year; the season called winter, lasts from May to
November, during which time there is a continued succession of
storms, thunder, lightning and rain, which falls in such torrents,
that the streets look like rivers; there is, however, an advantage
attending this dreadful season, for as there is no good fresh
water in the vicinity, the cisterns and tanks are then filled for
the supply of the remaining months; from December to April, the
weather is fine, and there are no rains, the heat is also somewhat
abated by the north-east winds, which blow during those months.
This heat is so great during the rains, that the people have a
livid wan complexion, and appear sluggish and worn-out on the least
exertion. This is, however, only in appearance, for they enjoy
in general, good health, and live to an advanced age, when not
cut off by the disorders incident to the climate, some of which
generally attack the Europeans on their first landing, and others
are peculiar to the natives; the vomito prieto, or black vomit, is
sometimes as fatal in its progress as it is at Vera Cruz, carrying
off whole families.
The inhabitants of Carthagena are also very subject to the leprosy;
to prevent the spreading of which, they have an hospital, in which
persons suffering under that disorder are confined for life, with
every accommodation that can be afforded them.
The city and suburbs are well laid out, the streets being straight,
broad and well paved; the houses are chiefly of stone, and of one
story above the ground-floor, with balconies in front; instead of
windows they have lattices after the Spanish fashion. There is a
handsome cathedral and several churches, convents and monasteries.
The population is estimated at 25,000; of these, the descendants
from the Indian tribes who occupy the suburbs, form by far the
greater portion; the rest are Chapetones, or Europeans, who seldom
remain here, if they acquire a fortune sufficient to enable them to
return to Spain; they are the most opulent persons in the city.
White Creoles, or descendants of Spaniards born in the country,
possess all the landed property, and have large estates in the
province; the mulattoes, and descendants from negroes, Indians and
whites, form the labouring classes.
Negroes are the slaves, but some of them from the law established
in their favour, are from time to time enfranchised; they wear
no other dress than a cotton covering about the waist. The
dress of the whites is similar to that worn in Spain, only of
lighter materials; whilst the other classes affect the same style
of clothing. The opulent females pass their days swinging in
cotton hammocks, and the women of all the castes are noted for
their charity to suffering strangers, and are of a mild amiable
disposition. The men are celebrated for their acuteness, and the
early maturity of their faculties; and their facility in acquiring
the mechanical arts is very great. Drinking brandy and chocolate,
smoking cigars, and eating sweetmeats, are the prevalent luxuries,
intermixed with a great fondness for dancing.
The governor, and the bishop of Carthegena reside in this city,
and there is a court of inquisition which has cognisance of all
religious matters in the provinces north of Quito. Besides these,
there are various public offices for the receipt of customs, &c.
The city enjoys a great trade with the interior, and by means of
its port, with Spain, the West Indies, and other parts of the world.
The goods of Santa Fé de Bogota, Popayan, and Quito, are mostly
transmitted to it; and Carthagena, from its advantageous situation,
will most probably be a city of the first importance in Spanish
America.
It has suffered since the year 1544, when it first became a place
of note, from the attacks of European powers. It was then invaded
by some French adventurers in 1585, and was pillaged and almost
destroyed by Sir Francis Drake; but was rescued from the flames
by a ransom paid by the neighbouring colonies. The French again
pillaged it in 1597 under M. de Pointis and the Buccaneers. In
1741, Admiral Vernon and General Wentworth attacked Fort Bocca
Chica, which was taken after eleven days siege, when they sailed up
the bay, after removing all the obstructions in the channel with
considerable difficulty; they destroyed several of the forts, and
the enterprize was abandoned. It has lately been the scene of some
actions between the insurgents and royalists.
The exports of this city, including that of the neighbouring ports
of Santa Marta, Rio Hacha, and Porto Bello, which have all the most
intimate connection with each other, without including the gold and
silver, reaches annually to the value of 260,000_l._ in cotton,
sugar, indigo, brazil-wood, cinchona of New Granada, balm of Tolu,
and ipecacuanha; whilst the imports amount, in European goods, to
the value of 866,000_l._ The towns of Carthagena are generally
small; those of most note are,--
_Mompox_, in 9° 19ʹ north latitude, 74° 11ʹ west longitude, which
is the most important town of Carthagena, next to its capital,
and is situated on the Magdalena, 110 miles south-south-east of
Carthagena, with a custom-house and fine quay built very high,
on account of the periodical rises of the river in December, the
floods then extending twelve or thirteen feet higher than its usual
level. Mompox is about seven leagues above the confluence of the
rivers Magdalena and Cauca.
_Tolu_, a small sea-port town, having a convenient harbour on the
Spanish main, or gulf of Uraba, in 9° 32ʹ north latitude, 75°
30ʹ west longitude. In the environs of this town are found the
trees which produce the balsam of Tolu, so excellent in pectoral
complaints. Tolu is fifty miles south of Carthagena.
_St. Sebastian de Buenavista_, was formerly a town of much
importance, but now decayed; it is situated 140 miles south-south-west
of Carthagena, at the entrance of the Gulf of Darien.
_Barancas_, or _Baranca del Malambo_, a small sea-port near the
estuary of the great river Magdalena, with a good harbour. This
place has some commerce with the neighbouring ports, being a sort
of magazine for the goods coming down the river from the interior;
a branch of the river leading to Santa Marta, by which merchandize
is transported thither. The principal article of its export
consists in salt, plenty of which is procured close to the town.
Barancas is twenty-five miles from Carthagena, in 11° 40ʹ north
latitude, and 74° 30ʹ west longitude.
_Santa Maria_, thirty-two miles west of Carthagena.
_Puebla de Samba or Zamba_, and _Zinu_ are sea-ports in the great
gulf of Darien, noted for the fertility of the country which
surrounds them.
_Guamoco_, on the southern boundaries of the province, thirty-five
miles north of Santa Fé de Antioquia; and--
The village of _Turbaco_, which is known from the circumstances of
its being the resort of Europeans, who, arriving at Carthagena,
find the summer heats too oppressive. This village, which is
small, is situated a short distance inland from the capital, on
the summit of a mountain nearly 980 feet above the level of the
sea, at the entrance of a majestic forest of immense extent. The
houses are built of bamboos, covered with palm leaves, and are
plentifully supplied with water from numerous springs. The gardens
are ornamented with beautiful trees and plants, and the whole place
is so delightfully situated, and the air in general so cool, that
it may be termed the paradise of Carthagena. It is also renowned
for a singular marsh in its neighbourhood, which is embosomed amid
a forest of palms, tolu trees, &c., having some little conical
mounts rising twenty or thirty feet higher than the level of the
swamp. They are eighteen or twenty in number, each one is formed
of blackish clay, and has a small crater filled with water at its
apex.
On approaching this pool a hollow moaning sound is heard at
intervals, followed in fifteen or eighteen seconds, by an explosion
of gas. Five of these detonations happen in about two minutes,
frequently accompanied with an ejection of muddy water. These cones
are called Los Volcanitos de Turbaco, and are situated about three
miles and a half east of the village, at the elevation of more
than 160 feet above it. The people say that the plain formerly
sent forth flames, but that a priest of great sanctity, succeeded
by frequently casting holy water towards it, in extinguishing the
fire, after which it became a water volcano.
_PROVINCE OF SANTA MARTA._
The province of Santa Marta is divided from that of Carthagena
by the great river Magdalena; it is bounded on the north by the
Spanish Main, or Caribbean sea; on the east by Maracaybo, and the
Rio de la Hacha, on the south by Santa Fé, and west by Carthagena;
its extent is about 300 miles, whilst its breadth is only 200.
The discovery of this country dates from the third voyage of
Columbus in 1497, when he explored the coast of the Spanish Main to
Cape Vela.
This province was included in the grant made to Alonzo de Ojeda,
his patent giving him authority over all the country situated
between the Gulf of Darien, and Cape de la Vela, consequently
including Darien, Carthagena, Santa Marta, and Maracaybo; these
were then designated under the general name of New Andalusia.
His predecessor, Rodrigo de Bastidas, was as unfortunate as
himself, for in 1524 he was murdered in his bed, by Pedro de
Villaforte, one of his companions, because he would not allow his
soldiers to plunder a certain Indian town. Pedro de Lugo, and his
son Don Alfonso, succeeded Bastidas, but committed such crimes,
that their authority soon ended.
The first regular system of government on this coast, was that of
Pedro Arias de Avila, in 1514, but as no colonies were planted by
him in Santa Marta, we must pass to that of Villaforte, which we
have just mentioned; and as he proved unsuccessful, to that of Don
Ximenes de Quesada, the conqueror of New Granada, who made this
province the rallying place of his troops.
The climate is not so unhealthy or hot as that of Carthagena;
the heat being moderated by the winds, which blow over the cold
mountains of the Sierra de Abibe, and the Nevada of Santa Marta,
whose summits reach far beyond the lower term of perpetual
congelation.
The whole country of Santa Marta is full of lofty and impracticable
mountains, which form part of the branch of the Caraccas; it
produces some cotton, tobacco, palm wine, cacao, Brazil-wood,
sugar, vanilla and maize, and a peculiar tree, whose unctuous
leaves afford a substance used by the natives, as soap.
The mines are of very little importance; some gold is found in the
river Ariguana, ninety miles from the capital; and at the village
of Ocana copper ores are dug up.
The pearl fishery was formerly carried on at Carrizal, about forty
miles east of the chief city, and was very productive. It is still
followed on different parts of the coast, and yields some excellent
pearls; but the undertaking appears to be badly conducted.
The valleys feed immense quantities of cattle, which are killed and
salted for exportation; some mules are also reared.
The great features of the province of Santa Marta are the enormous
height of its mountains, the most elevated of which is 16,000 feet
above the level of the Caribbean sea, from which it is visible,
and it is said to discharge streams of boiling sulphureous water
from the crevices in its sides.
Long and very narrow vales, covered with thick forests, are formed
by the Cordillera of Santa Marta; these vales usually run from
north to south; at Cape Vela the mountains divide into two parallel
ridges, forming three other valleys, ranging from east to west, and
appearing to have been the beds of ancient lakes. The northern of
these two ridges is the continuation of the Sierra Nevada of Santa
Marta; and the southern that of the snowy summits of the province
of Merida; they are again united by two arms, which prevented to
all appearance, the issue of the waters in their vicinity. These
three valleys extend to an immense distance, and are remarked for
rising like steps one above the other, and for their elevation
above the sea; that of Caraccas, the most easterly is the highest,
being 2660 feet; the next, or basin of Aragua, is 1530; and the
third, the reedy plain of Monai, or the Llanos, is only 5 or 600
feet above the level of the sea. The water of the lake of the plain
of Caraccas has been drained through a cleft or crevice, called the
Quebrada of Tipe; and the lake of Aragua appears to have gradually
evaporated, leaving only ponds charged with muriate of lime, and
small insulated masses of land.
The _Rio Grande de la Magdalena_, is a majestic navigable river,
but of which there is at present very little known; for although M.
Bouguer, the celebrated mathematician, travelled along the greater
part of its banks, he has left a very imperfect memorial on the
subject: it is said to rise about thirty miles east of Popayan,
near the sources of the Cauca, in 8 degrees south latitude; and
after a northerly course of immense length, receives the latter
river, with which it has flowed in nearly a parallel line on the
opposite side of the same chain of mountains. The river Funza or
Bogota, after quitting the fall of the Tequendama, rushes with
impetuosity through a long course into the bosom of this fine
river, which also receives many others, and united with the Cauca,
near Mompox, pours the confluent waters into the Caribbean sea by
several branches, the great or main channel being in 11° north
latitude, and 74° 40ʹ west longitude.
The Magdalena is subject to overflow in the month of December, at
which time it rises thirteen or fourteen feet above the usual level
at its mouth, and inundates and fertilizes the adjacent lands; thus
the country near the ocean is a succession of extensive marshes,
famous for the fine cacao produced in them.
The mountains bordering this river near Honda, are remarkable
for the horizontal situations of their strata, which are clearly
seen, on account of the faces of the rocks being so perpendicular
as to resemble walls; when any of these hills are insulated, they
form such a regular cone, and the strata are so uniformly and
cylindrically disposed, that they seem rather the work of art
than of nature. One of these exists about a league from Honda, on
the road to Mariquita, and is of such an extraordinary shape, and
so symmetrical, that M. Bouguer forbears describing it minutely,
for fear of being thought to take the usual liberty imputed to
travellers. Other mountains in the vicinity of this river assume
the shapes of ancient and sumptuous edifices; of chapels, domes,
castles and fortifications, consisting of long curtains surmounted
with parapets. From the circumstance of the strata of all these
corresponding in a singular manner, the celebrated _savan_, above
mentioned, supposes that the valley must have been sunk by some
sudden convulsion of nature, leaving the sides of those hills
uncovered whose bases were of more solid materials than itself.
The same thing is observable on the banks of the Orinoco, though
nothing of the kind is to be seen in Peru, where nature is so
infinitely varied in her Alpine scenery.
Most of the rivers which fall into the Magdalena are rapid, on
account of the vicinity of the Cordilleras on each side. It may be
easily imagined such streams cannot be crossed with stone bridges,
in consequence of the immense pressure of the water, and because of
the volumes of rock and earth which they roll from the interior.
Bridges of most singular construction are therefore adopted, to
facilitate the land journey from Santa Marta or Carthagena; roots
of plants, twisted together into the form of cables, as thick as a
manʼs thigh, are placed across the torrent; two of these are laid
parallel to each other, at about four or five feet distance, and
stretched on each side over a trestle of wood, having a windlass at
one end to tighten them; over these cables are placed fascines, or
branches of trees, and a little higher than the two bottom ropes,
are fixed two slighter ones, in order to serve as balustrades.
When a large river is crossed in this manner, the weight of the
cables causes the bridge to form a considerable curve or concavity,
and the traveller arriving in the centre, experiences a very
unpleasant, and sometimes dangerous oscillation.
In other places, three or four thongs of leather are plied into
a rope, which being made fast on the most elevated bank of the
torrent, is carried over, and secured on the lower shore, so as
to form an angle of fifteen or sixteen degrees; the passenger is
suspended on the higher side to a sort of pulley formed by the
bifurcation of two branches of a tree; the cord of leather is then
tightened, and the traveller descends with such rapidity that
sparks of fire are emitted from the pulley in consequence of the
friction, and he is obliged to keep his head averted to prevent
these sparks from falling in his eyes; a man is however placed on
the upper bank, holding a long cord, which is attached to the body
of the passenger, to check the too great rapidity of the descent.
Numbers of these flying machines, which are called tarabitas, are
established on all the rivers connected with the Magdalena; and for
the convenience of travellers, going and coming, they are placed
alternately, as close to each other as the higher and lower shores
of the streams afford proper opportunities.
The river Magdalena is infested with alligators, from eighteen to
twenty feet in length, but they are said generally to fly from man,
and only to attack him if they have by accident fed on human flesh.
In Santa Marta, and Carthagena, the banks of this river, which has
been styled the Danube of New Granada, are famed for the excellent
cacao they produce. The cacao, or chocolate-tree, is a native of
Spanish America, about the size of a middling apple-tree, seldom
exceeding the diameter of seven inches, and is extremely beautiful,
when laden with its fruit, which are dispersed on short stalks
over the stem and round the great branches, resembling citrons,
from their yellow colour, and warty appearance. The leaves are
alternate, stalked, drooping, about a foot long, and three inches
broad, elliptic-oblong, pointed, slightly wavy, entire, and very
smooth on both sides; with one mid-rib, and many transverse
ones, connected by innumerable veins. The petals of the flower
are yellow, the calyx of a light rose-colour, and the flowers
themselves are small and placed on tufts on the sides of the
branches, with single foot-stalks about an inch long.
Its fruit is red, or a mixture of red and yellow, and about three
inches in diameter, with a fleshy rind half an inch thick; the
pulp is whitish, and of the consistence of butter, containing
the seed of which chocolate is made; these seeds are generally
twenty-five in number in each fruit, and when fresh gathered, are
of a flesh-colour, and form a nice preserve, if taken just before
they ripen. Each tree yields about two or three pounds of fruit
annually, and comes to maturity the third year after planting from
the seed; it also bears leaves, flowers, or fruit, all the year
round, the usual seasons for gathering being June and December.
In making chocolate, the seeds or kernels are first roasted, and
then pulverised by mills or pounders; after which the fine powder
is wrought into a paste with milk, orange-water, vanilla, spices,
sugar, &c., and formed into cakes for sale.
So great is the demand for the chocolate of the Magdalena, that
enough cannot be raised in the provinces above-mentioned, to
supply the market, and they are obliged to import the cacao of the
Caraccas and Guiana, in order to mix them with it. The excellence
of the Magdalena chocolate, may be attributed to the marshy nature
of the soil, as the plant never thrives where the ground is hard
and dry, and they require to be shaded by other trees from the sun;
and their branches, which commence from the ground, must never
be allowed to exceed four or five, otherwise the fruit would not
have sufficient nourishment. Weeds and shrubs must also be cleared
away carefully from its roots, in order that it may derive as much
humidity from the soil as possible. The other productions of this
province are similar to those of Carthagena.
The government of Santa Marta contains from 250 to 300,000 souls.
_Capital._--The chief city of this province is _Santa Marta_, 100
miles north-east of Carthagena, in 11° 19ʹ 2ʺ north latitude, 74°
4ʹ 30ʺ west longitude, with a very large and convenient harbour,
which is protected by lofty ridges, and has in front a round
hill defending it on the side of the snowy mountains. This city,
founded in 1554, was made the magazine of Ximenes de Quesada, from
whence he explored and conquered New Granada. Sir Francis Drake
reduced the place to ashes in 1596. The harbour has two forts
for its defence, but the town has considerably declined of late
years, having only a trifling trade with Carthagena, and the
other Spanish ports. The climate, though exceedingly hot, is not
so unhealthy as that of Carthagena; and the town is supplied with
excellent water by the river Guayra, which passes close to it; the
banks of this stream are adorned with beautiful trees, and are very
fertile. Santa Marta is a bishopʼs see. The other towns of most
note are--
_Puebla Cordova_, a small town on the coast, 20 miles south of
Santa Marta.
_Puebla Nueva_, also a small town, 62 miles south of the capital.
_Teneriffe_, in 10° 2ʹ north latitude, 74° 30ʹ west longitude, 80
miles south-south-west of the capital.
_Ocana, or Santa Anna_, is a little town, near which copper is
found, and situated on the Rio de Oro, 220 miles south of Santa
Marta, in 7° 50ʹ north latitude, 73° 26ʹ west longitude.
_Puebla de los Reyes_, and _Tamalameque_, are two other small towns
of the province, which also includes a district named _Rio de la
Hacha_, of which the chief town is Hacha. This district bounds the
province of Maracaybo in Caraccas on the west. The town of _Hacha_
is situated in 11° 28ʹ north latitude, 72° 46ʹ west longitude, 210
miles east-north-east of Carthagena, on a river of the same name,
and close to its junction with the Caribbean sea; this river is
navigable for light vessels, but the harbour is exposed to the
north winds. Gold and precious stones are occasionally discovered
in the district which bears the same name, the interior of which
is covered with forests, and infested with jaguars and other wild
beasts. The trade of this port, as well as that of Santa Marta, has
been mentioned in treating of the commerce of Carthagena.
The neighbourhood of Rio de la Hacha is inhabited by a tribe
of warlike and unsubdued Indians, called the _Goahiros_; their
territory extending from the river La Hacha, to the province of
Maracaybo along the coast for more than ninety miles, and equally
far into the interior of the country.
The Spaniards have found it impracticable to reduce this nation,
but missionaries have endeavoured to convert them without much
effect. They are supposed to be the most ferocious race of
the South American aborigines; and to amount, on a moderate
computation, to 30,000 souls, being governed by a cacique, who
lives in a fortified town on the summit of a small hill, called the
Pap, or La Teta, some miles from the sea. The number of wild horses
in this country is so great, that all their warriors are mounted,
and armed with carabines and bows. They have been supplied with
fire-arms by the contraband traders from Jamaica, with whom they
carry on a very great traffic, particularly in time of war. Their
principal aggressions are made on the Maracaybo side, so that the
settlers in that province are obliged to be constantly on their
guard.
When they are inclined to barter with the Spaniards, they carry
their goods to Rio de la Hacha, for which place they set out in
bands accompanied by their women and children, who are the bearers
of the merchandise, which is chiefly exchanged for spirituous
liquors, as they are so fond of these, that when they commit
hostilities upon the settlers, the usual present to appease them
consists of brandy.
Very few Spaniards dare to traverse this country, although the
Goahiros frequent many of the Spanish towns. The English from the
West India islands are the people they most respect, and with whom
their chief connections are formed; they are supplied by them
with arms, ammunition and clothing, for which they return pearls,
dye-woods, horses, oxen and mules.
Feathers, and shining metals form the chief ornaments of the
dress of these people, who are also very fond of displaying
golden-nose-rings, ear-rings, and bracelets.
It is said that the Goahiros are so exceedingly savage, that
even the English will not venture much on shore, but carry on
their traffic on board their vessels, and depart the moment it is
concluded. Ships which have the misfortune to be cast away on their
coast, immediately become the prey of these Indians, who massacre
the crews, and feed on their flesh.
The _Cocinas_ are another small nation, on the eastern part of the
territory of the Goahiros, but are so pusillanimous, or probably
so very inferior in strength, that the latter govern them with
absolute power, and use them for slaves.
Besides these tribes, there are many others, who inhabit the
province of Santa Marta and those adjoining, but little is known of
their numbers, manners, customs, or even in some instances of their
names.
_PROVINCE OF MERIDA._
MERIDA is bounded on the north by Maracaybo; east by Venezuela;
west by Santa Marta; and south by Santa Fé and Juan de los Llanos.
Its great feature consists in the amazing elevation of a branch
from the chain of the Andes, which entirely pervades this province
on its western side, rising beyond the lower period of perpetual
snow, and to the height of 15,000 feet above the level of the sea.
The direction, &c. of this branch has been described in the general
form of the Andes.
The climate of this province is very variable, on account of the
vicinity of the snowy mountains and the unequal heights of the
land; and when the westerly winds prevail, febrile diseases are
common.
The rainy season lasts from March to November, during which time
tide water descends in torrents; and rains are also frequent, but
not so heavy in the other months.
Very little is ascertained concerning the interior of this country,
but it produces maize, beans, peas, potatoes, cassada, wheat of
the finest quality, barley, rye, &c. as well as the Tropical
and European fruits in great plenty; also containing several
plantations of sugar, cacao, and coffee; and the cattle are in such
numbers, that meat is purchased at a very moderate price.
The Rio Apure, and some other rivers of considerable size, either
rise or receive their tributary streams from the mountains of
Merida, watering in their courses immense tracts of level and
fertile land, which also extend from these mountains to the
vicinity of the Orinoco.
_Capital._--The chief city of the province is _Merida_, from which
the whole district has taken its name; this city is situated in 8°
10ʹ north latitude, and 73° 45ʹ west longitude, twenty-five leagues
south-east of Varinas, 80 leagues south of Maracaybo, and 140
leagues south-east of Leon de Caraccas. It is the see of a bishop,
and the residence of the governor, and is seated in a valley, three
leagues long, and three quarters of a league in breadth, surrounded
by lofty mountains. This vale is peculiarly productive in the
necessaries and luxuries of life; and contains three rivers, the
Mucujun, Albaregas, and Chama, which encompass the city, but are
none of them navigable.
The chief plantations of the province are at a short distance
from the capital, where a college and seminary for the priests
is established, in which the inhabitants are educated; besides
these buildings, are a handsome cathedral and three convents, with
several chapels.
The population of Merida amounts to upwards of 11,000, composed
of Spaniards, mestizoes, mulattoes, &c. The whites are chiefly
employed in agricultural pursuits, and the people of colour in the
manufacture of articles of cotton, and woollens.
This city was founded under the name of Santiago de los Caballeros,
in 1558, by Juan Rodrigo Suarez; and at the period when the late
dreadful earthquake overwhelmed the city of Caraccas, it shared the
same fate, and was nearly destroyed, but has since been rebuilt,
and become more populous than before.
_Pampeluna_, or _Pamplona_, is another town of the province of
Merida towards its southern boundaries, in 6° 30ʹ north latitude,
and 71° 36ʹ west longitude. In its neighbourhood some gold is
occasionally found. This place is 170 miles north-north-east of
Santa Fé de Bogota.
_St. Christoval_ is also another town, situated between the two
latter, and
_La Grita_ is fifty miles south-south-west of Merida, where there
is a chain of mountains called by the same name.
_PROVINCE OF SAN JUAN DE LOS LLANOS._
This province which is the most easterly one of the kingdom of New
Granada, is bounded on the north by Varinas and Merida; on the
east by Varinas; on the west by Santa Fé and Popayan, and south by
the government of Quixos. Its limits are not accurately defined,
the name signifying the Province of the Plains, which extend their
dreary surfaces to an immense length in these regions; some of
those on which numerous herds of cattle are fed being more than 2
or 300 leagues in length.
The capital of this province is the town of _San Juan de los
Llanos_, at the distance of fifty miles east-south-east of Santa
Fé de Bogota, in 3° north latitude, 73° 26ʹ west longitude. It was
formerly celebrated for the gold found in its neighbourhood. This
town was founded in 1555, and contains very few inhabitants.
In this province are several missions, established by the monks
of Santa Fé de Bogota and the Jesuits; but very little is known
concerning them, being chiefly establishments for the conversion
of the different scattered tribes which roam over the country
intercepted between the Andes and the Orinoco.
The _Rio Meta_, the _Vichada_, the _Casanare_, and several other
fine streams flow through these plains, many of them taking their
rise in the main chain of the Andes, and others in the branch
called the Cordillera of the cataracts of the Orinoco.
The northern portion of the Llanos is sometimes styled the province
of _Casanare_, of which _Pore_ is the chief town, situated in a
hot climate and unhealthy situation; but its territory produces
cacao, maize, yuccas, plantains, &c., and it has some trade in
dressed leather, manufactured by the inhabitants from the skins of
the numerous herds of cattle which feed in the plains, and from
those of the venados or deer, with which the province abounds. The
rivers and lakes furnish abundance of fish, and are the means of
transporting the goods of New Granada to Caraccas and Guiana.
The city of _Pore_ or _San Josef de Pore_, is 133 miles north-east
of Santa Fé de Bogota; 82 south of Pamplona, and in 5° 40ʹ north
latitude, 72° 13ʹ west longitude; containing about 500 inhabitants.
The other places in the province or district of Casanare are
chiefly missionary, and other villages, along the banks of the
rivers which flow from the Andes of New Granada to the Orinoco.
_PROVINCE OF SANTA FÉ._
SANTA FÉ, or Santa FÉ de Bogota, is bounded on the north by Santa
Marta and Merida; on the east by the lofty summits of the eastern
part of the Cordillera of the Andes, and the province of San Juan
de los Llanos; south by Popayan; and west by Santa Fé de Antioquia.
This province, which is exceedingly mountainous, is situated in the
very centre of the viceroyalty of New Granada, on the west of the
eastern branch or parallel of the main chain of the Andes, and on
both sides of the great river Magdalena, which pervades the whole
province from south to north. The highest summits of this eastern
branch are the Paramo de la Summa Paz, and that of Chingasa: it
divides the valley of the river Magdalena from the plains washed
by the Meta and the Casanare. None of the summits of the chain of
Santa Fé de Bogota, attain the regions of eternal snows, although
they approach very near to it. The western slope of this chain is
broken into numberless elevated plains and peaks, intersected with
crevices of the most tremendous appearance.
The city of SANTA FÉ, which being the capital of the kingdom, has
been already described, is situated to the west of the Paramo
of Chingasa, at a great elevation; on the western declivity of
which is the celebrated fall of the Tequendama. The outlets from
Popayan or Quito to Santa Fé, are by means of roads traversing
an assemblage of broken ground; and the pass of the Paramo de
Guanacas, which lies across the Cordillera of Antioquia, is the
most frequented, from which the traveler crosses the Magdalena,
and arrives at the metropolis by Tocayma and Meza, or the natural
bridges of Icononzo. These bridges are however not much frequented
excepting by the Indians and travellers whose curiosity inspires
them to venture in such desolate regions; they are the formation
of Natureʼs ever varying hand, and are situated west of the Summa
Paz, in the direction of a small river which rises in the mountain
of that name. This torrent rolls through a deep and narrow valley,
which would have been inaccessible, but for the arches thrown
across it in so wonderful a manner.
The little village of Pandi is the nearest inhabited place to this
pass, being a quarter of a league distant, and the whole road from
the capital is one of the most difficult in the Andes.
The crevice of Icononzo is in the centre of the valley of Pandi,
and appears to have been formed by some convulsion of nature, which
has rent asunder the mountain; at the height of near 300 feet
above the torrent (which forms beautiful cascades, on entering and
quitting the crevice) are seated these extraordinary bridges, one
under the other, the breadth of the upper one being about forty
feet, and its length upwards of fifty, composed of solid rock in
the form of an arch, seven or eight feet thick at its centre. Below
this and rather advanced on one side of it, at the depth of sixty
feet, is another bridge formed still more singularly, for as the
mountain appears to have been rent away or drawn from the upper,
the inferior one seems to have fallen from the mountain, and three
enormous masses of rock have descended from the opposite sides of
the chasm in such a manner that the upper mass forms the key of
the other two. This lower bridge cannot be visited without much
risk, as a narrow path alone leads to it along the brink of the
precipice. In the centre is a hole, through which the abyss below
can be seen, and numberless flights of nocturnal birds are observed
hovering over the water, which flows through so dark a cavern that
the sides cannot be distinguished.
The rivers of Santa Fé are very numerous, but most of them are
innavigable on account of the great declivity of the land towards
the Magdalena.
The _Suarez_, the _Galinazo_ or _Sogamozo_, the _Rio Negro_, and
the _Bogota_, or _Funza_, are the chief streams, which, rising in
the eastern Cordillera, descend into, and swell the Magdalena.
Lake _Guatavita_ may be considered as one of the curiosities
of this province, it is situated on the ridge of the Zipaquira
mountains, north of the capital, in a wild and solitary spot, at
the height of more than 8700 feet above the sea. It is a small oval
piece of water, in a deep hollow of the same form, round which are
cut ranges of steps, reaching to the brink of the lake, having
served, most probably for some religious ceremonies in use among
the ancient possessors of this country.
As it was supposed that a great quantity of treasure had been
thrown into this lake, when Quesada conquered the kingdom of
Cundinamarca, the Spaniards attempted to cut a canal through the
mountain of which its banks are composed, in order to drain off the
waters, but their design does not appear to have succeeded, for
after considerable excavations, it has been left off at little more
than half the requisite depth.
This province was conquered, as has been already mentioned, by
_Gonzalo Ximenes de Quesada_, who was sent in 1536, by Fernando de
Lugo, Admiral of the Canaries, from Santa Marta, to discover the
countries along the banks of the great river Magdalena. Ximenes
travelled along the left bank of this river, meeting with great
difficulties on account of the thickness of the forests, and
the number of torrents and rivers he had to cross, which were
frequently bordered with marshes and swamps nearly impassable.
He was also constantly attacked by the numerous tribes of
Indians, who wandered about these deserts; but overcame all
these difficulties by perseverance and ardour, and by shewing a
good example of personal fortitude, and disregard of danger to
his followers. He at last came to a place called Tora, which he
immediately called Puebla de los Brazos, on account of four rivers
meeting there. At this place he raised huts, and passed the winter
with his men, having travelled by his own computation 150 leagues
from the sea coast.
In the spring, Quesada pursued his march, when the floods had
abated by going up the banks of another river, until he arrived at
the foot of the lofty mountains of Opon, which were fifty leagues
in breadth, steep and desert; passing these heights, they arrived
in a plain country, well cultivated, and where they procured a
great deal of salt from some springs. From these springs, they
advanced into the province or kingdom of a powerful chief, named
Bogota, whom they defeated after some actions. The towns and
villages belonging to this chief contained many articles of value,
among which, gold and emeralds were procured in abundance; and
after plundering these people, the troops of Quesada marched into
the country of the Panchos, separated from Bogota by little hills,
and entering a deep vale, fifteen leagues distant from a very
high mountain, which was destitute of vegetation, and, on which
they were informed the natives found their emeralds. Here Quesada
procured an immense booty of gold and precious stones. In three
days subsequent marching, they overthrew two other chiefs; and
returning through Panchos to Bogota, forced the natives to submit,
and to make overtures for peace. The conqueror imagining that the
adjacent country was sufficiently subdued, commenced the foundation
of a city, which he named Santa Fé, (the present capital,) and
because he was a native of the kingdom of Granada in Old Spain,
he gave the name of New Kingdom of Granada to the districts which
he had passed through. This title was, however, restricted for a
long time to the country immediately in the neighbourhood of the
capital, and New Granada embraced little more than the present
province of Santa Fé.
The state of the natives at the period of their subjugation, their
civil and religious government, &c., has been already treated
of; the province is noted at present for the production of a
small quantity of gold, silver, gems, salt and coal, and for the
fertility of the plain near the capital. The woods abound with
game, wild beasts and birds; the rivers with fish and alligators,
and the plains breed numbers of horses and mules, which are
exported to Peru.
The towns of most note after the capital are, _Honda_, _San
Gil_, _Socorro_, _Velez_, _Muzo_, _Leiva_, _Tuna_, _Mariquita_,
and _Villa de la Purificacion_; which all lie in the different
jurisdictions into which the province is divided.
_Honda_ is the first port on the upper part of the great river;
it is represented by M. Bouguer as a pleasant little town, “_une
petite ville tres riante_,” lying in north latitude 5° 16ʹ, and 72°
36ʹ 15ʺ west longitude. The river is navigable for barks a great
distance from Honda towards its sources, so that this town is the
mart of the commerce between the northern and southern provinces of
New Granada.
_Mariquita_ is situated four leagues west-south-west of Honda, on
the little river Guali, which passes through the latter place into
the Magdalena. This town was formerly much celebrated for its gold
mines, and its district contains at present, on the west, those
of Bocaneme and San Juan de Cordova, with the mines of Hervi,
Malpasso, Guarino, and Puano; and on the east are the silver mines
of Sta. Anna, Lojas, and Frias, the silver in these being mingled
with the purest gold which is extremely difficult to separate from
it. The town was formerly exceedingly rich and populous, but owing
to the want of exertion in the working of the mines, is now reduced
to 300 inhabitants, and to comparative insignificance. It is eighty
miles south from Santa Fé, in 5° 16ʹ north latitude, and 74° 6ʹ
west longitude.
Mariquita is remarkable for having been the place where Ximenes
de Quesada, the conqueror of New Granada, died in the year 1597.
His body was removed to the cathedral of the capital, where it is
enclosed in a monument.
_San Gil_ is a small town on the northern frontier near the
junction of the rivers Sogamozo and Suarez, as is _Socorro_,
which lies a short distance south of San Gil, near the banks of
the Suarez, and is 123 miles north-north-east of Santa Fé; the
inhabitants amounting to more than 3500.
_Velez_ is 100 miles north of Santa Fé, in 5° 50ʹ north latitude
and 73° 16ʹ west longitude, on the river Suarez.
_Muzo_ is a small town near the banks of the Magdalena, and on
those of the river Negro, which flows into the former. The Muzos or
Musos, were, and still are, a race of Indians, who were noted for
being at continual war with the Muyscas or Bogotians. Their country
was extremely rich in emeralds, and is mountainous, hot and moist.
They had a singular tradition, that there was in ancient times on
the other side of the Magdalena, the shadow of a man called Ari,
which amused itself with making wooden faces of men and women,
casting them into the stream, from whence they issued in the form
of human beings, and he taught them to cultivate the earth; they
then dispersed, and from this stock came the Indians who inhabit
the surrounding regions.
The Muzos had no gods, nor did they worship the sun and moon, as
the Bogotians did; as they said these bodies were created after the
wooden faces, in order to give them light when they became living
beings.
Their marriage ceremonies were singular, the wife beating her
husband during the honey-moon. Their dead were dried before a slow
fire, and not buried till a year had passed after their demise; and
the widow was obliged to cultivate the ground for her support until
the interment, when her relations took her home.
_Leiva_ is a small town situate at the foot of the Paramo de
Guacheneque, north of the capital.
_Villa de la Purificacion_ is on the southern bounds of this
province, on the west bank of the Magdalena.
_Tocaima_ is fifty-six miles west of the capital, at a little
distance from the river Pati or Bogota, in 4° 16ʹ north latitude,
74° 59ʹ west longitude, and near the confluence of the Pati
with the Magdalena. It was founded in 1544 in a bad situation,
destitute of springs, exposed to violent heats, and infested with
venomous creatures. It has however fertile plantations of cacao,
tobacco, sugar, maize, yuccas, plantains and potatoes, and there
are abundance of fish in the rivers Pati and Fusagasuga, which are
however infested with alligators. The inhabitants are poor, and
amount only to about 700. In its vicinity are some mines of copper,
but these are at present unworked.
_Tunja_ or _Tunia_ in 5° 5ʹ north latitude, 72° 56ʹ west longitude,
sixty miles north-east of Santa Fé, is famous for the tradition
concerning the disappearance of Bochica; it was enlarged into a
town by the Spaniards in 1539, and was formerly a very opulent
place. The great church is so spacious that it might pass for a
cathedral, and there are three convents of considerable dimensions
remaining, but the present population of Tunja does not exceed 400
souls; though it is the chief place of one of the districts, into
which the province of Santa Fé is divided.
_PROVINCE OF SANTA FÉ DE ANTIOQUIA._
This province, also called Antioquia, is bounded on the north by
Carthagena and Darien, east by Choco; west by Santa Fé; and south
by Popayan; of which it is a district or government.
It is famous for its mines of gold, &c., and consists almost
entirely of mountainous land, having part of the central ridge of
the Andes, which divides the valley of the Magdalena from that of
the Cauca, within its limits.
Quicksilver, that precious article, in a mining country, is
occasionally discovered in Antioquia, as sulfuretted mercury is
found in the valley _de Santa Rosa_ on the east of the Rio Cauca.