bay of Tecoantepec, and several smaller ones along the coast, all
of which proceed from the mountains, water the country, render it
fertile, and also fall into the Pacific.
_YUCATAN OR THE INTENDANCY OF MERIDA._
YUCATAN is the most easterly province of the kingdom of New Spain,
and is in the form of a peninsula, jutting out into the gulf of
Mexico from the main land of the isthmus; it is surrounded on the
north-west by the waters of the Mexican gulf; by the bay or gulf
of Honduras on the south-east; the province of Vera Cruz bounds it
on the south-west, and Vera Paz in Guatimala on the south. Here it
is connected with the continent of North America, by an isthmus of
about 120 miles in breadth. The English have settlements extending
a short distance along the east coast of Yucatan, opposite
Ambergris Key.
The soil of this peninsula is very prolific, and when under proper
cultivation, produces great crops of corn, maize, indigo and
cotton. The climate is hot, their summer beginning in April and
finishing in September, but January and February are very warm
months, the rest of the winter cooler, and little or no rain falls
throughout that season. The north side is the pleasantest, for
although very hot, it is refreshed by gentle breezes; on the whole
the climate of Yucatan is not an unhealthy one. It produces and
sustains vast quantities of cattle, fowls, and bees; honey and wax,
are therefore plenty; and its forests afford shelter to various
kinds of wild beasts. It has no mines, for which reason it is not
much settled by the whites, the chief part of its inhabitants being
Indians, who are employed in making salt in Campeachy Bay, and are
subject to the Spaniards. On the coasts of Yucatan, large pieces
of amber are frequently found. There is a ridge of considerable
mountains pervades the whole extent of this province, which extends
from the eastern side at Merida to the western extremity of the
peninsula; on this range of mountains, the climate is very fine,
and it is asserted that the natives live to a great age. On the
north side of this chain the land is refreshed with breezes, and
contains plenty of springs; but the southern side is in want of
good water, ill cultivated and thinly peopled, the settlers being
chiefly on the north. In Merida the nights and days are nearly of a
length owing to its situation.
In Yucatan there are very few rivers of any consequence, but
springs are numerous, especially on the north side, and in digging
for their wells, in which they always find water at a little
depth, shells are usually found, from which, with the shallowness
of the sea near the coast, it has been supposed that the greater
part of the peninsula was once submerged. The eastern coast of
Yucatan is not inhabited by Spanish colonists, the English alone
appearing there, except in the small fort of Bacalar, which has
been built to prevent the British from going into the interior. The
British logwood cutters find that article in greatest perfection
in Campeachy Bay, and in the Bay of Honduras; but it has been said
that the logwood of Campeachy is more plentiful, as well as greatly
superior to that of Honduras.
_Campeachy_, or _St. Francisco de Campeche_, the principal trading
town of Yucatan, is situated in 19° 50ʹ 45ʺ north latitude, and
90° 30ʹ west longitude, on the west shore of the Bay of Campeachy,
in the gulf of Mexico, in the river St. Francisco. It has some
fortifications which command the town and harbour, and has often
been plundered and taken by the English and French buccaneers; In
1659 it was taken by the English under Sir Christopher Mims, in
1678 by the Buccaneers, and in 1685 by the pirates of St. Domingo;
the last named year they set fire to the town and fortification,
and plundered the adjacent country to the distance of fifteen
miles; they also burnt 50,000_l._ worth of logwood, because the
governor would not ransom the place for an enormous sum which
they demanded. When the Spaniards first took this place, it
contained three thousand houses, with many beautiful monuments
of the Indian arts. The houses at present are numerous, and well
built of stone; the harbour is large, but not deep; and the chief
manufacture is cotton cloth, and wax. It used formerly to be the
market for logwood till the British landed; when they cut it at
Trieste island, 120 miles from Campeachy, near the isthmus. Great
quantities of logwood formerly grew all about Campeachy, but the
British have nearly monopolized this trade.
The logwood cutting establishments are under the Spanish governor;
but by the treaty of peace in 1783, the British were allowed the
privilege of cutting it without being molested.
The wood is felled at stated seasons, and in stated places, by
permission of the intendant, and is dried for a year previous to
exportation. This wood is not confined to Yucatan; it grows in
abundance on the coast of South America, near the mouths of the
Orinoco. The town of Campeachy contains 6000 people.
The language of the Indians is styled the Maya Tongue; and Yucatan
is remarkable for being the scene of the early conquests and
discoveries of the Spaniards, who found the natives in a state of
comparative civilization; as they had stone houses, temples, and
cultivated fields; some monuments of their industry still exist.
The population, including Indians, is 465,800. We have given
a description of Campeachy first, on account of its being the
principal trading place, and formerly the metropolis. _Merida de
Yucatan_ is now the capital and residence of the intendant, who is
also called captain-general. Merida is ten leagues from the coast;
its port is called Sisal, being in 21° 10ʹ north latitude, 89° 59ʹ
30ʺ west longitude, with a castle and small harbour, having an
immense sandbank opposite its entrance. Merida is situated in a
plain almost destitute of water; the population amounts to 10,000.
This with _Campeachy_ and _Valadolid_, famous for its cotton
plantations, are the most noted places of the country, with the
large Indian villages of Zampolan and Equetchecan, between Merida
and Campeachy.
_GUATIMALA._
Guatimala is a general name for a portion of the territory on
the narrow part of the continent, which reaches from Oaxaca and
Vera Cruz, southward to Veragua, on the isthmus of Darien. This
tract of land is subject to the government of a captain-general,
and is called the Capitania General of Guatimala, or as it is
sometimes written, Gualtimala. The officer who exercises this
command is independent of the viceregal court of Mexico, and is
appointed by the king of Spain, consulting the viceroy on important
occasions only; in what regards the immediate government of the
captain-generalship, he is perfectly independent of any of the
viceroys of the New World, acting solely on behalf and in the
name of His Catholic Majesty. Of his power and resources, with
his emoluments, &c. very little can be said, as this interesting
portion of Spanish America has not attracted the serious attention
of any contemporary writers.
The territory of Guatimala is subdivided into numerous provinces
or districts, of which the following names are given as a list:
Soconusco, Suchitepec, Sonsonate, St. Salvador, St. Miguel,
Tiguesgalpa, Choluteca, or Keses, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica,
Vera Paz and Chiapa. The first seven of these are denominated
Guatimala, in the most modern maps, which is however an error.
The general appearance of the soil, (excepting the neighbourhoods
of the volcanoes,) is fertile in the extreme; and Guatimala
abundantly produces corn, cochineal, honey, wax, cotton, the
sugar-cane, indigo, maize, pimento and chocolate. There are plenty
of cattle and sheep in the farming districts. The climate differs
greatly, according to the situation of the provinces on the eastern
or western coasts; the western side is in general the best and
healthiest, as may be observed, throughout the whole of North
America. The whole country is mountainous, of which the particular
ridges are very little known. In the Guatimala of the maps, that is
to say, on the western shore from Guaxaca to Veragua, the country
is dreadfully subject to tremendous convulsions of the earth, which
has at times involved whole cities in ruin, exterminated complete
tribes of people, and reversed the order of peaceful nature. The
volcanoes are extremely numerous, and some of them terrific;
no less than twenty are known to exist, which are constantly
in action. The captain-general is commander of the troops, and
Guatimala, the chief city, is the seat of a royal audience, which
governs twenty-five districts. This Audienza Real, or Supreme
Court of Justice, was first established in 1554.
The capital of this extensive country is GUATIMALA, which is
situated in 14° 28ʹ north latitude, and 92° 40ʹ west longitude.
It is built near the Pacific Ocean, on the Rio Vaccas, and has a
good harbour. It is the see of an archbishop, which was established
in the year 1742, and seat of the Audienza Real, with that of the
government of the Capitania General. This renders it a place of
nearly as much importance as Mexico, or any other chief city of the
Americas. It has an university, and its chief trade consists in
chocolate, pitch, and naptha.
When this city was first built, it was founded on the declivity of
a mountain, at whose summit was a volcano, in a beautiful valley
of three miles in width, and was then called St. Jago. This valley
opened to, and fronted the Pacific Ocean, and the town contained
about 7000 families.
In the year 1751, this unfortunate city was overwhelmed by an
earthquake, and by the matter from the volcano, which is called
the Volcan de Guatimala. Notwithstanding this awful calamity, the
surviving inhabitants ventured to rebuild their favourite abode;
but direful to relate, another and a more tremendous convulsion
again destroyed the devoted place in the year 1775. The greater
part of the inhabitants were buried in the ruins, and the whole
circumstance was one of the most tremendous and calamitous ever
known. The city was again rebuilt shortly afterwards, on the spot
on which it now stands, which is twenty-five geographical miles to
the southward of the Old Town. It is a magnificent place, adorned
with churches and monasteries, and an university reckoned one of
the best in the empire. The women have been celebrated for their
beauty, and the people altogether for their suavity of manners and
courteous disposition. The moisture of the climate has been stated
as a cause of the beauty and delicacy of the females.
The number of inhabitants in this city has been computed at about
19,000.
_GUATIMALA PROPER_,
Or the Guatimala of the maps, is a division of the above territory,
which is bounded on the north by Vera Paz, Chiapa, Guaxaca and
Honduras; on the south, by the Pacific; on the east, by Nicaragua;
and on the west, by Guaxaca and the Pacific Ocean. _Guatimala_ or
_St. Jago de Guatimala_ is its capital, as well as that of the
whole Audience. It is subdivided into the following districts, from
the north to the south, along the coast of the Pacific, Soconusco,
Suchitepec, Sansonate, St. Salvador, St. Miguel, Tiguesgalpa and
Choluteca, or Xeses, each of which we shall separately describe,
but in a limited manner, as no information, that can be relied on
is to be found with respect to these regions.
SOCONUSCO.--This province is situated in the northern part of
Guatimala, and is bounded on the north, by Chiapa; on the east, by
Vera Paz; on the south, by the Pacific; and on the west, by Guaxaca
and the Pacific.
The air in this district is exceeding hot, and the general state
of the climate either rainy or sultry; the rains last from April
till September, and violent storms are very frequent. Soconusco is
neither a healthy nor a pleasant country, and the soil is not so
fertile as in some other parts of Guatimala, the corn and maize
not growing so abundantly; but to compensate for this, it produces
pimento, indigo, and cacao, in great quantities, and with these
articles it carries on a great trade with the other North American
colonies of Spain. The Spaniards are not numerous in Soconusco,
it being chiefly inhabited by Indians, but the few Spaniards
who reside there are very rich. The capital of this province is
_Soconusco_, or _Guevetlan_, which is situated in 18° 30ʹ north
latitude, and 120° 40ʹ west longitude, on a small river which runs
into the Pacific Ocean; Soconusco is 460 miles south-east of the
city of Mexico.
SUCHITEPEC is a small district to the southward of Soconusco, and
whose capital is _St. Antonio de Suchitepec_, which is situated on
a river running into the Pacific, in 14° 44ʹ north latitude, 93°
36ʹ west longitude, and 60 miles west-north-west of Guatimala. Its
population amounts to 1480, all Indians of the Suhutil nation.
SANSONATE is another small district of Guatimala, to the southward
of Suchitepec, having for its capital _La Trinidad or Sansonate_,
situated on the river Sonsonate, at its mouth; this town is a
sea-port, and is situated 120 miles south-east of the city of
Mexico, with about 2000 inhabitants, of whom 400 are whites. The
population of the district is about 40,000 souls, consisting almost
entirely of Indians, Mulattoes and Negroes.
ST. SALVADOR is also a small district of Guatimala to the southward
of the former, which produces sugar-canes and indigo in great
abundance, the soil being very fertile; the capital of this
province is _Cuzcatlan_ or _St. Salvador_, which is situated in
13° 40ʹ north latitude, 89° 20ʹ west longitude, twelve miles from
the coast of the Pacific Ocean, and 140 miles east-south-east
of Guatimala; it has a little trade, and is the residence of a
governor: many maps have absurdly made this town the capital of
Spanish North America. Its population is about 5,000 Indians,
whites and Castes.
ST. MIGUEL, to the southward of the former, is another small
district, having for its capital _St. Miguel_, which is situated
fifty miles east of St. Salvador or Cuzcatlan.
TIGUESGALPA or TIGUAZALPA, is also a small district of the same
country, situated near the province of Nicaragua, whose capital of
the same name is situated on a river which runs into Amapalla Bay;
eighty miles north of Leon de Nicaragua, in 13° 50ʹ north latitude,
and 87° 36ʹ west longitude.
CHOLETUCA is also another and the last district of that division
of the Audience of Guatimala, which is named Guatimala Proper,
or Guatimala only in the maps; of all these foregoing divisions
little or nothing is known; their climate is very hot, they have
rains from April to September, and are bounded from the eastern or
Atlantic provinces of Guatimala by a ridge of mountains which are
very lofty, and in which there exists numerous dreadful volcanoes.
The whole of this country is subject to earthquakes and storms,
and although in general very fertile and productive, it has little
commerce, there being no mines of any great importance in its whole
range; the number of its inhabitants has not been ascertained. Its
rivers are not considerable, nor has it any lakes of consequence.
SOLOLA, QUESALTENANGO, TOTANICAPAN, ESCUINTLA, &c. are the names of
other districts in the interior, mostly inhabited by Indians living
in missions or villages; but as so little is accurately known
concerning this kingdom, it is of no use to merely enumerate titles
of districts.
_CHIAPA_
Is the next province of Guatimala which occurs in tracing the map
of that country; it is situated inland, and is bounded on the
north by the province of Tabasco; on the south-east, by Vera Paz;
south-west by Soconusco, and west by Guaxaca; it is 255 miles in
length from west to east, and 300 miles broad at its widest, and
ninety at its smallest breadth. It is full of hills and mountains,
but has no mines, nor is gold found in its rivers; the Spaniards
therefore only value it for its situation, which renders it the
key to New Spain, as the river Tabasco, Puerto Real, and its
vicinity to Yucatan render it the easiest of access of any part of
their dominions. The principal river is the Chiapa, which rises
inland, and running to the north through the Indian country of the
Quelenes, falls into the Mexican gulf at Tabasco. This river is
the great road of the inhabitants of Chiapa; by it they carry on
a considerable trade with the adjacent provinces, particularly in
cochineal and silk, the Indian women making beautiful handkerchiefs
of the latter article, which are eagerly sought by the Spaniards
for the European market.
Chiapa abounds with magnificent forests of cedar, cypress, pine,
oak, walnut, &c. with trees which yield all sorts of aromatic
balsams and gums, copal, &c.; wild cochineal, maize, corn, cacao,
and cotton are also extremely productive, and fruits are found here
of every kind that is known in these regions. The natives colour
the chocolate with a substance called achiotte. This province is
famous for its fine cattle, and for a very excellent breed of
horses, which are in such request that they often send them to
Mexico, 500 miles distant.
Wild beasts are very numerous in its forests, and wild hogs,
foxes and rabbits are seen every where in its plains; snakes of
a formidable size, said to be twenty feet long, are found in the
mountainous parts, also others of a red colour, streaked with black
and white, which are tamed by the Indians, who carry them about
their persons.
The inhabitants of this country are a well made, fair people, very
courteous in their manners and skilled in music and painting, with
great knowledge of the mechanical arts.
The chief town of this province is CHIAPA or _Cuidad Real_, or
_Chiapa de los Espagnoles_; it is the see of a bishop, whose
revenue is 8000 ducats per annum. It is also the seat of the courts
of justice, and is situated in 17° north latitude, and 96° 40ʹ
west longitude, in a beautiful plain environed with mountains, at
nearly the same distance from the Pacific Ocean as from the gulf of
Mexico, and 300 miles to the north of Guatimala. Chiapa Real is
neither very populous nor very rich, and it is said that the upper
orders of the Spaniards who inhabit it are proud, poor and ignorant
to a proverb. The families amount to four hundred in the city,
and the Indian families in the suburbs, to about one hundred. The
cathedral is an edifice of beautiful appearance and the city has
several monasteries. It is governed by a magistrate chosen amongst
the burgesses, in consequence of a privilege granted the city by
the king of Spain, and its principal commerce consists in cacao,
cotton and cochineal.
CHIAPA DE LOS INDIOS, or _Chiapa of the Indians_, is the next town
of rank in this province; this is the largest city which they have
in the country, and is situated 36 miles north-west of Chiapa Real,
in a valley near the Rio Tabasco.
The town is extensive and opulent, and is filled with Indians who
hold a high rank amongst their tribes. It is asserted that this
city contains 20,000 people of the native race. The climate is
excessively hot during the day-time in this part of the country,
but the evenings and nights are cool. There are many monasteries
and churches in this town; the first bishop was the celebrated
Bartolomeo de las Casas, who struggled so hard for the rights of
the Indians, and whose memory is consequently very dear to them. On
the river Tabasco the inhabitants amuse themselves in performing
naval actions with boats; and all around the town are farms which
are plentifully stocked with cattle; in the vicinity there are
also some sugar plantations: wheat is sold here from Chiapa Real,
and biscuits are made of it, which are bartered by the natives and
Spaniards for cotton, wool and other necessaries.
_PROVINCE OF VERA-PAZ._
The province of Guatimala next to Chiapa is Vera-Paz; it is bounded
on the north by the provinces of Chiapa and Yucatan; on the east,
by Honduras and the bay or gulf of Honduras; on the south, by
Guatimala; and on the west by the Saine and Chiapa. It is about 120
miles in length, and 74 in extreme breadth. The air in the higher
parts of Vera-Paz is healthy; in the low land insalubrious. This
district is subject to earthquakes, to nine months of rain, and
storms with dreadful thunder and lightning. The mountains which
overspread great part of the country, are thickly covered with
forests, of which cedars occupy the greatest part. It is not much
cultivated, and yields a little corn and fruits. The wild animals
of America are very numerous in the extensive woods of Vera-Paz.
Its trade consists chiefly in drugs, cotton, cacao, honey, wool,
&c.; and from its situation on the gulf of Honduras, might be
rendered much more flourishing than it is. The gulf of Dolce or
Dulce, a sort of large lake, but which communicates with the sea
by means of the gulf of Amatique, lies on the eastern and southern
part of Vera-Paz, and seems placed there by nature, to facilitate
the commerce of the government of Guatimala.
The chief town of Vera-Paz is _Coban_, or _Vera-Paz_, situated
in north latitude 15° 50ʹ west longitude, 91° 14ʹ; 600 miles
south-east of Mexico, on the Rio Coban which falls into the gulf or
lake of Dulce.
_THE PROVINCE OF NICARAGUA_
Is bounded on the north by Honduras, on the east by the Caribbean
sea, on the west by Guatimala and the Pacific, and on the south by
Costa Rica.
The climate is, generally speaking, salubrious; the summers are
hot, but not unhealthy, and in the winter they have much rain and
storms.
It is one of the most woody countries of Spanish North America,
and where cultivated, extremely fertile, so much so, as to
receive the name of the “Garden of America.” When the Spaniards
first discovered it, they called it Paraiso de Mahoma, Mahometʼs
Paradise, on account of the beauty of the country, and the perfume
of the odoriferous plants, with which the soil is covered. Its
chief products are flax, hemp, balsams, cotton, sugar, long-pepper,
turpentine, liquid amber and Nicaragua-wood, which is a substance
used in the dying trade; these, with its silver mines, constitute
the chief objects of the labour and traffic of its inhabitants, who
carry on a great trade with Panama, &c.
Wheat is not plentiful in Nicaragua, nor is there any great
quantity of sheep, but black cattle and hogs are very numerous.
Wild turkeys and parrots occupy, with wild animals, the extensive
woods, whilst the sands of some of its rivers furnish gold, which
is also found in lumps in this province.
The natives are numerous, and reckoned an industrious and ingenious
people, and are particularly skilled in the goldsmithʼs art.
The capital of the province of Nicaragua is LEON, or _Leon de
Nicaragua_, situated on a lake of fresh water, abounding with fish,
which is called by the same name, and communicates with the great
lake; this town has a mountain near it with a volcano, which has
sometimes caused it to suffer by earthquakes. The town is not very
large, containing about 1200 houses, with many convents, and four
churches. It is the see of a bishop. Its port is Realexo, which
is situated near it, and is a fortified town with a good harbour,
which has the same name, and is on the Rio Realejo. The river
Realejo is so deep and commodious as to be capable of containing
200 sail of vessels. The town has good fortifications and fine
docks for building and repairing ships. It has three churches and
an hospital. Realexo is in north latitude 12° 45ʹ, 87° 30ʹ west
longitude, eighteen miles north-west of Leon. It suffered much
from the Buccaneers, as they found it a commodious harbour; the
Pacific is shut out by an island which lies across the mouth of the
bay, and forms two channels; but the one on the north-west side is
the safest and best.
The town of Realexo is unhealthy owing to the marshes and creeks in
its neighbourhood; its chief trade consists in cordage, pitch and
tar, and in the little commerce it carries on for Leon, of which it
is the embarcadero or port.
NICARAGUA, or _Granada_, is another town near the great lake at
its south-eastern extremity, in 86° 15ʹ west longitude, 11° 15ʹ
north latitude. In the year 1680, this town as well as the capital
was sacked by the Buccaneers, it has now a considerable trade in
cochineal, hides and sugar, with the neighbouring provinces.
St. JUAN is a sea-port thirty miles south-east of Leon, in 12° 10ʹ
north latitude, 87° 38ʹ west longitude, and there are some others
of little note.
The river St. Juan is the stream which affords an outlet to the
lakes of Nicaragua and Leon into the Caribbean sea. Its length
is about 100 miles; this river is navigated by boats and canoes
carrying tallow and goods to Porto Bello, 240 miles distant, but
they are obliged to make three portages which is owing to some
obstructions in the course. These carrying places are defended,
and at one of them is the Fort St. Juan, called also the Castle of
Neustra Senora, on a rock, and very strong; it has thirty-six guns
mounted, with a small battery, whose platform is level with the
water; and the whole is enclosed on the land side by a ditch and
rampart. Its garrison is generally kept up at 100 infantry, sixteen
artillery men, with about sixty of the militia, and is provided
with batteaux, which row guard every night up and down the stream.
Some slaves are allowed for the menial services of the garrison,
and this post is supplied with provisions, fowls, garden-stuff,
&c. from Granada, distant 180 miles, being usually provisioned for
six months. The climate is very unhealthy as it is always raining,
and the place requires to be constantly recruited from Guatimala.
This port is looked on as the key of the Americas, and with the
possession of it and Realejo on the other side of the lake, the
Spanish colonies might be paralyzed by the enemy being then master
of the ports of both oceans. This river St. Juan has also been
proposed as the means of joining the Atlantic and Pacific oceans;
its great length, the necessity for making only two or three cuts
to avoid its obstructions, the immense depth of the lakes Nicaragua
and Leon, and a short canal of twelve or fourteen miles on the
western side, would effect this object; thus rendering an easy and
safe communication from the West Indies, the coast of the Spanish
main, and the eastern shore of New Spain to the Pacific Ocean. It
is to be supposed that the Spaniards would not have neglected an
opportunity thus afforded them by nature, had not political reasons
suggested the impropriety of the undertaking.
_THE PROVINCE OF HONDURAS_
Is a large province of the kingdom of Guatimala, and is bounded
on the north by the gulf or bay of Honduras, which separates it
from the province of Yucatan; on the west by Vera-Paz; on the
east by the Caribbean sea; and on the south by the province of
Nicaragua. The length of Honduras from east to west is 390 miles,
and its breadth from north to south about 150. Honduras was first
discovered by Columbus, who landed on the Mosquito shore on Sunday
the 14th of August, 1502, and took formal possession of the country.
The climate of this country is good; the air, excepting on the
eastern shore, and near the morasses, being pure and wholesome.
The soil in most parts is exceeding fertile, abundantly producing
corn, vegetables and fruits. They have a three-fold crop of maize
in the year, and the vines produce grapes twice in the same period.
The pastures are excellent, and the country furnishes all kinds
of provisions; but for want of cultivation and settlements, the
greater part of it is in a state of nature. It has many good and
serviceable small rivers, and is well watered. It has several
mountains in its extent, in which are gold and silver mines, and
the face of the country is agreeably diversified into valleys,
plains and eminences, overspread in most parts with thick forests.
Honey, wool, cotton, wax, mahogany and logwood, with other dyeing
drugs, are its chief products; the latter forming an immense part
of its exports, and from which its chief importance is derived.
The felling of the mahogany trees is performed twice in the year,
in Autumn and at Christmas. This is done by slaves, who have one
man called a finder, or huntsman, whose business it is to seek for
the mahogany trees in the thick woods, and to point them out to
the gang. This he does by penetrating the forest, and climbing the
tallest trees to discover his object; the mahogany trees generally
grow separately, and are much dispersed, so that the labour of
procuring this valuable wood is very great; the finder soon
discovers them by the deep colour of their leaves, and he selects
the place where they are most numerous to call his comrades to work
at.
The mahogany tree is cut at the height of ten or twelve feet from
the earth; and for this purpose they erect a stage for the feller
to stand conveniently on. The trunk is used for tables, and other
articles of furniture, which require large planks of this wood;
but the branches are reckoned the best parts of the tree, as the
grain in them is closer, and the streaks more beautifully varied.
The trunks and branches are dragged by the negroes to the nearest
river, and there made into rafts, for the purpose of being floated
into the sea to the settlements.
The growth of the mahogany tree is very rapid, but not so much
so as that of the logwood, which comes to a state fit for use in
five years. The slaves who are employed in cutting the logwood and
mahogany have been brought either from the United States, or the
West India Islands by their owners, and are not in such a degrading
state of subjection as their brethren of the last-mentioned places.
Logwood trees are cut in logs of about three feet in length, and
sent to Europe in that form, where they afterward undergo many
operations, and are principally used by dyers for the finest black
and for purple colours.
The Mosquito shore, a tract of country which lies along part of
the northern and the eastern shore of Honduras, has been claimed
by the British. The English held this country for eighty years,
and, abandoned it in 1787 and 1788. The Spaniards call it a part
of Honduras, which it really is, and claim it as such. It is an
unhealthy, hot country, inhabited chiefly by a race of people
called the Mosquito Indians, who are excellent marksmen, and of a
warlike disposition. They are employed by the British to strike the
manati, or sea-cow, for the sake of the oil it affords, and bear
an invincible hatred to the Spaniards, being much attached to the
English; as they were so cruelly treated on the conquest of this
part of the country by the former people, that they have never
forgiven it, and they do not acknowledge any allegiance to them.
Their ancestors, after long and exterminating contests with the
Spaniards, retreated into the mountains, and there remained till
the English took possession of the Mosquito shore.
When the Duke of Albemarle was governor of Jamaica, they put
themselves under his protection, and their king had a commission
granted him from Great Britain. It is asserted that since that time
the new monarch always goes to Jamaica to receive this document;
and that the Mosquito Indians, his subjects, refuse to acknowledge
his power till he does so. They trade with, and are frequently in
the habit of crossing to Jamaica. The Spaniards are said to have
no settlements on the Mosquito Shore; which name has been given to
this country, partly from the Indians, and from a bank and cluster
of islands which lie near it, in 14° 30ʹ north latitude, and 82°
10ʹ west longitude.
The Mosquito Indians were formerly a very powerful and numerous
race of people; but the ravages of rum and the small-pox have
diminished their numbers very much. They inhabit, however, nearly
the whole coast of Honduras; and their most numerous tribe exists
near the Cape Gracios á Dios. This tribe has, however, been the
subject of many enquiries and disputes, as they differ in their
persons from the other natives, and it is confidently said by many
authors that they are the descendants of the slaves of a Guinea
ship, which was wrecked near this Cape. They are called the Samboc
Mosquitoes. Cape Gracias á Dios was the place where the British
first established themselves in the Honduras territory, upon the
banks of a navigable river, where the country is very fertile, and
the harbour, formed by an inlet of the sea, is safe and commodious.
This happened in 1730. They also fixed a colony about 78 miles
from Cape Honduras, the colony at Cape Gracios á Dios being 162
miles distant. Seeking farther southward, at Bluefields River,
210 miles-from the first colony, they found a fine harbour, an
extensive river, and a natural situation for a fort, with spacious,
beautiful and fruitful plains.
The bay of Honduras, so celebrated for its trade in logwood and
mahogany, is situated between Cape Catoche, the north-eastern
most point of the province of Yucatan, and Cape Honduras. The land
in the neighbourhood of this bay is inhabited by the Mosquito
Indians. The English factories in 1769 amounted to 200 whites, the
same number of people of colour, and 900 slaves. They exported
to Jamaica, mules, &c. and to Europe, 800,000 feet of mahogany,
10,000 pounds of tortoise-shell, and 200,000 pounds weight of
sarsaparilla. This trade was much damped by smuggling: but in the
year 1763 Great Britain obtained the privilege of the logwood
trade. They have lately discovered that the Campeachy wood of
Yucatan, which grows on drier ground, is better, and of a closer
grain, than the Honduras wood: but the price of the former had been
so long kept up, that the latter trade was the most flourishing.
The best mahogany is now cut in Yucatan.
The climate of the Honduras is superior to that of the West Indies;
the sea-breezes being regular during the whole of the year,
excepting in April, May and June, when the heats of summer prevail;
but the mean heat is 30°.
BALIZE is the chief and only settlement of the British which
is worth mentioning, situated at the mouth of a river of the
same name, and consists of 200 habitations built of wood, and
elevated on pillars. The shops, magazines, or offices, are on the
ground-floor, and the habitable parts in the upper. The two floors
have each piazzas, to which the people retire, from the heat of
their inner apartments. The river on which Balize is situated,
is navigable for boats 200 miles up the country, and the wood
cutters proceed to that distance, in search of their article.
The agriculture of this country has been neglected, on account
of the wood trade, though the soil would produce the West Indian
commodities of sugar, coffee, or cotton, with rice and Indian corn
in great abundance. The British government appoint an officer to
the command of this station, who is usually an officer of some
rank in the army.
Many of the turtle which are caught here, are exported to England;
and the hawks bill (a particular kind) is consumed in the
settlement; its shell being an article of the commerce of Honduras.
The bay of Honduras is full of shoals, rocks, and islands, which
make its navigation dangerous. The fog, which is prevalent during
the northerly winds, increases the difficulty, and the currents on
the coast are very uncertain.
The introduction of British manufactures has been impeded into the
adjacent Spanish settlements by the jealousy of the Spaniards; but
it is probable that it may in time become a very valuable station.
The British government grant a convoy in January and July each year
to the Honduras traders; and the annual revenue of the settlement
is stated at about five thousand pounds.
The Mosquitoes who have fallen under the observation of the British
settlers, seem to have no other religion than the adoration of evil
spirits; and their conjurers are in fact the priests, the lawyers
and the judges. Polygamy is practised; and all domestic offices are
performed by the females.
The crown is succeeded to hereditarily, and the king is a despotic
monarch. These people are warlike, keeping the other Indian
nations and their Spanish neighbours, in complete defiance; they
can support hardships and want of food with great heroism; but,
as all savages do, when they can indulge, they place no bounds
to their excesses. The warriors of this tribe are accounted at
fifteen hundred. The mosquitoes annoy these savages, who probably
have received their name from these insects being so plentiful on
the coast; so much, that at particular seasons, they quit their
dwellings, and pass their nights in their canoes.
In Honduras, the rainy season is always accompanied by great
flights of swallows, who remain at night at rest on the great
savannahs or plains, and at sun-rise rush in a body up into the
air, in quest of the flies, their nutriment; at dusk they return,
and a traveller has described the noise which this immense body of
birds make in their flight, as comparable to that of a waterfall.
In the bay, cormorants and pelicans are very numerous, as well as
many other sorts of sea-fowl, attracted by the abundance of fish.
The chief towns of the Spanish part of Honduras, are Valladolid,
the capital, Truxillo, Gracias á Dios, and Omoa.
VALLADOLID, or COMAYAGUAS, is the capital, and is a large and fine
town, in 88° 19ʹ west longitude, 14° 30ʹ north latitude, on the
banks of a river which falls into Honduras bay. It is said that
there are rich silver mines in the vicinity of Valladolid; this
city is the residence of the intendant, and the see of a bishop,
who is styled Bishop of Honduras.
TRUXILLO is situated on a hill near the sea, and in Truxillo bay;
this sea-port has very often been ravaged by the Dutch and British;
it is at present a place of little account, though made, by some
writers, the capital; and is in 15° 51ʹ north latitude, and 86° 8ʹ
west longitude. Truxillo is ninety miles north of Valladolid.
GRACIAS Á DIOS, is on the bay of Honduras, at the mouth of a small
river; and there are said to be some gold mines in its vicinity. It
is in 14° 30ʹ north latitude, and 90° 6ʹ west longitude.
OMOA, or ST. FRANCISCO DE OMOA, is situated in 15° 50ʹ north
latitude, 89° 53ʹ west longitude, and is a strongly fortified
sea-port. The treasure and valuable commodities of Guatimala are
received here to be embarked; and the European trade of the kingdom
carried on through this port, which is so important as to be called
the key of Honduras.
_PROVINCE OF COSTA RICA._
COSTA RICA is the most southern province of Guatimala, and is
bounded on the north by Nicaragua, east by the Caribbean sea,
west by the Pacific, and south by the province of Veragua. It is
150 miles long, and in its widest part about 140 broad. Its name,
Costa Rica, “the Rich Coast,” is derived from its valuable gold
and silver mines, and a pearl fishery, which formerly existed on
its shores. It is a very mountainous country, overspread with
thick forests and waste lands; its population is not extensive,
and consequently, there is little or no agriculture practised. The
native tribes are its principal inhabitants; the Spaniards only
occupying some small towns and mining stations; but the natives are
not subjugated, and live independent of their Spanish neighbours.
Its chief mine is Tisingal, reported to be nearly as rich as
Potosi. The commerce of this province consists in cacao, cattle,
honey, hides and wax; and in its pearl fishery, with a species of
shell-fish, which produces a purple dye. The pearl-muscle and the
shell-fish alluded to, are found principally in a small bay, called
the Gulf de la Salinas, or Nicoya. This is its principal port on
the Pacific shore, while on the Atlantic, the port of Carthago is
situated at a great distance from the town of the same name.
CARTHAGO the capital is situated in 9° 5ʹ north latitude, and 83°
west longitude, 360 miles west of Panama, the see of a bishop, and
the residence of a governor; it is not a place of much importance
or any considerable population, having been lately much deserted,
though it was formerly one of the first towns in this part of the
world.
NICOYA is the next town of any importance; it is situated near
the shore of the gulf of the same name, on the western or Pacific
coast, in 85° 53ʹ west longitude, and 10° 42ʹ north latitude. The
pearl and dye fishery is situated in the bay of Salinas, thirty
miles east of Nicoya. The trade of the inhabitants of Nicoya
consists in salt, honey, Indian corn, wheat, fowls, and the purple
juice of the above mentioned fish, which they export to Panama; and
which was first discovered to produce so valuable a substance by
the Indian women, who stained their cotton garments with its fluid.
_PROVINCE OF VERAGUA._
VERAGUA, though actually situated in North America, is an integral
part of the government or kingdom of Tierra Firma, in South
America. The principle of this work being to offer descriptions
of the whole of Spanish North America, as it is geographically
situated, before entering upon the description of the territorial
possessions of the same power in the southern part of that vast
continent, we shall accordingly proceed with Veragua, as though it
formed a part of Guatimala.
It is bounded on the north, by the Caribbean sea; east by the
province of Darien in South America, which is separated from
Veragua by the ridge of Canatagua; on the west, by Costa Rica, and
on the south, by the Great Pacific ocean. It was first discovered
by Columbus, in the year 1503, and this province was granted to him
by the Spanish king, as a reward for his services, with the title
of duke. He gave the river the appellation of Verdes aguas, which
in Spanish is the same as Green Waters, on account of the colour
of its waves; this has gradually been corrupted into Veragua,
and from this river, the province takes its name. The Spaniards
were very long before they could make any permanent settlement in
this province, on account of the hostility of the inhabitants.
Gaspar dʼEspinosa, and Diego de Alvarez, endeavoured to conquer
and explore Veragua, but being repulsed in all their attempts by
the natives under their sovereign Urraca, they were obliged to
form a settlement in the neighbourhood, and fonded the city of
Santiago; but here they were assailed by these valiant Indians,
and were obliged to strengthen their position in every possible
manner to resist their frequent attacks. Veragua is a mountainous,
rugged country, covered with vast forests, beautifully interspersed
by luxuriant and fertile valleys; the heat of this province is
very great, though meliorated by the rains which are constantly
falling; thunder storms, accompanied with frightful lightning,
occur very frequently, and during these storms, the torrents rush
with impetuous and overwhelming force into the vales from the
surrounding mountains. The Indians, the principal tribe of whom are
called Doraces, live in the forests and mountains, and are only
partially converted by the missionaries, who have founded some
villages, where they reside with their flocks; this has only been
accomplished since the year 1760. The woods abound with monkeys and
wild animals; there is one kind of monkey of a delicate form and
yellow colour with a white head, and it is said, they never live
when removed from their native climate.
The gold and silver mines of Veragua are not much wrought, owing to
the rugged nature of the country in which they are situated; the
natives being the only means they have to transport the produce
over the mountains, which when a mine is worked they do on their
backs. The labour and expence attendant on this mode of carrying
the ores to be smelted, render the working of the mines, though
they are very rich, almost, impracticable.
The capital is _Veragua_, or _St. Jago de Veragua_, a handsome
town, situated in a moist and warm climate, and surrounded by a
small district which produces Indian corn, a root called yucca,
of which they make bread, and plantains; cattle and hogs are here
also very numerous. The Indians in the vicinity dye their cottons,
manufactured by themselves, with the juice of shell-fish found at
the bay of Salinas in Costa Rica, and on the coast of Veragua,
affording a rich and delicate purple; with this juice, and with
gold, which they find in the hills, they carry on a trade with
Panama and Guatimala. This city is the residence of a governor, and
has fourteen villages under the jurisdiction of its magistrates;
there is also a fine hospital founded by the friars; and its
inhabitants are partly Spaniards, partly mulattoes.
The next city is _Nuestra Senora de Los Remedios_, or _Puebla
Nueva_, inhabited by Spaniards and their descendants. _Santiago el
Angel_, or _Alangi_, is the third city of Veragua, and was founded
by Benito Hurtado, governor of Panama. There are also several large
villages, inhabited principally by the native Indians.
_Veragua_ is famed as having been the country where the first
European colony was attempted to be planted by Columbus, on the
continent of America. This happened on the 24th of February, 1503;
but after building a fort and constructing some houses, they found
themselves unable to resist the attacks of the Indians; and from
this, and other circumstances, Columbus resolved to embark the
colony; which he accordingly did.
_WEST INDIA ISLANDS_
BELONGING TO THE CROWN OF SPAIN.
The West India Islands, colonized by Spain, are not numerous.
Puerto Rico and Cuba, in the northern group, Margarita and some
others on the coast of Caraccas, unimportant in their nature, being
mostly mere rocks, compose the whole of the islands in the West
Indian seas which are possessed by Spain; of these Puerto Rico and
Cuba are the most important; Cuba being the largest as well as one
of the most fertile islands belonging to any European power in the
American seas.
POLITICAL DIVISIONS.
These islands are divided into three governments; Puerto Rico
is a capitaneria generale, as is the island of Cuba, including
the adjacent continent of the Floridas; under the title of
Captain-General of the Havannah, an officer of high rank governs
this island and Florida; his situation being the most important of
any of the capitanias generales of Spanish America.
The captain-general of Caraccas governs the island of Margarita
and the others on the coast of his province; we shall therefore
describe these islands under the head of Caraccas, proceeding at
present to the description of Puerto Rico.
_PUERTO RICO._
THE island of Puerto Rico, is situated in the Caribbean sea and
Atlantic ocean, between the island of Hayti or St. Domingo, and the
Virgin Islands. It occupies a space between 65° 30ʹ and 67° 45ʹ of
west longitude, and between 18° and 18° 35ʹ of north latitude. In
shape, it is nearly a parallelogram, its length being about 120
miles by forty in breadth. Columbus discovered this island during
his second voyage, in the year 1493. Juan Ponce de Leon, of whom we
have spoken in the description of Florida, colonized Puerto Rico,
in 1509; when he subjugated the country; the native Indians were at
that time very numerous, but have since disappeared.
Puerto Rico is an important island to the Spaniards; its
productions are very valuable to their European commerce, and the
climate is more healthy and temperate than in the other islands of
the Caribbean seas. The mountains of Puerto Rico, are not of any
very great altitude, but form a beautiful feature of the landscape,
their gently undulating surface composing picturesque and well
watered valleys. The rivers are of no size, but agreeably diversify
the picture; and being very numerous, are exceedingly useful to the
purposes of agriculture. The interior, and part of the seashore to
the north, is still covered with the original forests, in which
roam large wild dogs; these dogs are the remains of a race brought
from Spain, by the first conquerors of the island, to assist in
hunting down the natives, who fled for protection to the fastnesses
of the interior.
These forests also abound with parrots, pigeons and other birds,
peculiar to the West India Islands, as well as with land-crabs,
which are as numerous here as in any of the Caribbean Isles; on
whose flesh the wild dogs are supposed to subsist.
The natural history of these crabs is highly singular; they are
the dread of colonists proceeding to the West Indies; who are
told, that should they die of the fevers so prevalent in that
region, their bodies will not rest long in the earth to which it is
committed; as the land-crabs burrowing to the grave, soon consume
them.
At certain seasons of the year, these singular animals, who
greatly resemble the sea-crabs in shape and manner of moving,
leave the mountains in which they have formed their burrows, and
move in immense cavalcades down to the sea-coast, for the purpose
of depositing their young in the waters. At this period nothing
arrests their progress, as they move continually in the same line;
if they meet with a wall, they climb up one side and down the
other; and the clattering noise produced by the claws is said to
be surprising. After depositing their young, they return to their
haunts, in the same order, and are followed by the young crabs, as
soon as they attain sufficient strength to perform the journey.
Cattle of superior qualities, originally brought from the
mother-country, are fed in this island; poultry are also very cheap
and plentiful, and the rivers and sea supply the inhabitants with
every variety of fish.
The southern coast is the most healthy as well is the most fertile;
producing, for the commerce of the inhabitants, sugar, coffee,
cassia, flax, cotton, ginger, and the odoriferous gums used in such
great quantity in Roman Catholic countries; these, with hides and
tropical fruits, compose the chief articles of their trade with
Europe, &c. They have here a fine breed of mules, which are sought
after, from the British islands in the neighbourhood.
The northern side, which is comparatively sterile, is supposed to
contain in the higher lands, some gold and silver mines; but of the
existence or value of these, nothing certain is ascertained.
With all these bounties so lavishly bestowed by the hand of Nature,
Puerto Rico is subjected occasionally to a dreadful calamity. In
the year 1742, a terrible tornado overturned the labour of years,
and destroyed the plantations, which did not recover the shock
they received for several years afterwards; these hurricanes
occasionally visit the island at present, but none of so calamitous
a nature has been experienced since that period. The total
population of the island is calculated at 136,000.
The capital of the island, and residence of the governor, is
situated on a peninsula on the northern shore. It was founded in
1514, and named _Puerto Rico_; from whence the whole island has
received its appellation; having been called Borriquen by the
natives when first discovered.
This town is also called _St. Juan de Puerto Rico_; and is situated
in 18° 29ʹ north latitude, and 66° 0ʹ west longitude; a fort
called St. Antonio, protects it on the south-west; and it has also
a citadel and other fortifications, with a very good harbour.
Puerto Rico is a bishopric, the bishop residing in the capital.
The amount of its population is not well known, but is very great.
This city has often been attacked; in 1594, by Sir Francis Drake;
in 1597, by the Duke of Cumberland, (who took and plundered it and
the island,) and again by the British in 1797; who were however as
unsuccessful as Sir Francis Drake.
The plantations and small towns of the island are very numerous,
but mostly too insignificant for notice. The number of slaves in
Puerto Rico is not considerable.
Puerto Rico draws from Mexico for the expences of its
administration, the sum of 377,000 piastres annually.
Its defence consists chiefly in the country militia.
It has adhered to the royal cause.
_CUBA._
CUBA, the largest as well as the most important of the islands in
the West Indian seas, is situated to the south of Florida, between
the northernmost point of Yucatan, and the westernmost point of the
island of Hayti, or Hispaniola. The western part of Cuba, nearly
shuts in with the northern shore of Yucatan and the western coast
of East Florida, that immense basin known by the name of the gulf
of Mexico; it is strongly suspected that Cape Catoche in Yucatan
and the most western headland of Cuba, were formerly united by
an isthmus, which has been gradually worn away by the pressure
and action of the waters of the Caribbean sea. Should this have
actually been the case, the Mexican gulf must have been very
shallow, as we find that the passage of the waters of the South
Atlantic, impelled by the trade-winds through the strait formed
by Cuba and Yucatan, is, although it has considerable breadth, so
very forcible, as to send a vast stream or current, with great
impetuosity round the gulf and through the straits of Florida, as
far as the banks of Newfoundland, and to the northern shores of
Europe. This stream is distinguishable in the North Atlantic, by
its superior heat to the rest of the waters of that ocean, and
by a body of sea-weed which constantly accompanies it. This the
author has observed considerably to the east of the great bank
of Newfoundland, as well as small land birds, which he cannot
imagine could have reached those latitudes by the aid of flight
alone. Might they not have been conveyed on the masses of sea-weed
(which also envelope wreck and trunks of trees) borne by this upper
current from the Mexican gulf?
The extent of Cuba is from 73° 50ʹ, to 85° 30ʹ of west longitude
from east to west; its form is so curved, that it lies, although
narrow, between 23° 20ʹ, and 19° 40ʹ north latitude; it is about
700 miles long, but not more than seventy in medial breadth.
Its position gives it the command of the gulf of Mexico, by the
Straits of Yucatan and Florida, as well as the navigation of the
windward passage and channel of Bahamas. The fine harbour of the
Havannah, and some other smaller ports, renders this island, with
the before-mentioned advantages, the most important of the West
India islands, particularly to Spain, possessing as she does the
shores of the Mexican gulf.
The Spanish Government, have accordingly spared no expence in
fortifying the Havannah, on which they seem to place their chief
dependence for the security of their ultramarine colonies.
Cuba was discovered by Columbus during his first voyage in the
year 1492, on Sunday the 28th of October. The natives of San
Salvador, the first land he made, called it by its present name,
Cuba; Columbus, however, named it after the king or queen of Spain;
but it retained this title only for a short time, the native name
soon taking precedency of the other. Columbus appears to have made
his research in this island, from the reports of the Indians of
San Salvador; when he arrived with his ships at the estuary of a
large river, the inhabitants imagining some terrible event was
about to befall them, fled to the interior; he, however, sent some
of his people after them; they fell down astonished at the feet of
these men, whom they imagined to be gods, and gave them different
articles the produce of the country, amongst which were golden
ornaments, made, as they said, in the mountains; and the Europeans
imagined they had found the mines of gold and silver they were
taught to imagine existed in this quarter of the world.
Columbus visited the greater part of the north coast of the island,
in search of the precious metals, but the Spanish adventurers
were disappointed in their hopes, gold being found only in very
small quantities. They in some measure consoled themselves by the
reflection, that the continent, as they imagined Cuba to be, might
contain these valuable articles in some other part, and by the
certainty, that the part they were now in, was fertile, beautiful
and rich in the vegetable productions of nature. The Spaniards
imagined that Cuba was a part of an immense continent, till the
year 1508, when an officer of the name of Obando, circumnavigated
it, and by this means ascertained that it was the largest of the
islands hitherto discovered in those seas. The brother of Columbus,
in the year 1511, in his capacity of admiral, and governor of
Hispaniola, sent Don Jago Velasques with a force of 300 men, to
conquer and colonize Cuba, which having performed, Velasquez was
appointed governor of the island; his principal town he founded
on the southern coast, and called it St. Jago; this situation he
chose on account of the largeness and fineness of the harbour; he
then built the city of the Havannah, at first of wooden houses, and
afterwards with stone.
The climate of Cuba is better than that of any other island in the
West Indian seas, excepting Puerto Rico; it is mild and temperate,
and they have no winter; the summer heat is moderated by the rains
and sea-breezes; the periodical rains lasting during the months of
July and August.
The fertility of Cuba is celebrated; spices, among which are pepper
and ginger; cassia, manioc, cacao, maize, aloes, mastic, sugar,
tobacco, the flavour of which is superior to that of any other
part of the world, known in commerce by the name of Havannah, and
sold to an enormous amount in cigars, with many other articles
the produce of tropical climates, constitute the riches of this
fine island. Coffee, though cultivated, is so little attended to
in the plantations, that not so much is grown for exportation as
might easily be raised. Honey is one of the great articles of the
export trade, and is annually produced to a great amount, as wax is
also. Cattle, originally from Europe, have multiplied so much in
Cuba, that they have become wild, and frequent, in immense droves,
the forests and savannahs, or marshy plains; they are hunted for
the sake of their hides and tallow, which are exported to a great
amount.
The forests also abound with swine, which have multiplied in a
similar manner; and the inhabitants possess large stocks of mules,
horses, fine black cattle, and sheep, all of which thrive very much.
The woods chiefly consist of timber of valuable qualities, the
red cedar, oaks, firs, palms, mahogany, ebony, lignum vitæ; woods
producing gums, aromatic and medicinal, &c.
The rivers and coasts abound with fish, and fine turtles frequent
the shallows. The birds of Cuba are principally the parrot, and
paroquet, American partridge, turtle-dove, and great varieties of
aquatic birds.
In this island there are supposed to exist veins of gold and
silver, because the inhabitants procure a small quantity of those
metals in the sands of the rivers which descend from the mountains.
The great metallic production of Cuba is copper, of which some
valuable mines exist in the eastern part of the island, with which
a trade is carried on amongst the West India islands, and the ports
of the southern continent.
About an hundredth part of the island of Cuba only is supposed to
be under a state of cultivation; the inhabitants, consisting of
Europeans and their descendants, and negroes; the amount of the
former being 338,000, and of the latter 212,000, making a total of
550,000 inhabitants.
A chain of mountains runs the whole length of Cuba, from east to
west, following the curvature of the country.
This chain divides the island naturally into two parts; though
these mountains do not acquire any very considerable elevation,
but give rise to numerous rivers which flow into the ocean on each
side, and sometimes, during the rainy season, inundate the low
lands.
Cuba, as all the other islands of these seas are, is exposed
occasionally to the devastating effects of hurricanes, but on the
whole it is more free from these, as well as from disease, than any
of the others, and may be looked upon as the healthiest, the most
fertile, and the most secure of the West India islands.
Cuba with the Floridas, comprises a capitaneria generale, styled of
the Havannah. The officer who holds this command has a very arduous
and extensive jurisdiction, during war particularly; he has in the
island eighteen subordinate governors, who preside over as many
districts, into which Cuba is divided. An intendant superintends
the finances and commerce of the island, and is subordinate
only to the captain-general. The religious affairs of Cuba are
superintended by a bishop, who resides at Havannah, and whose
income is considerable.
The revenues of the island of Cuba are said to amount to more
than two millions of piastres per annum, but the expences of
administration are so great, that it receives from Mexico 1,820,000
piastres during the same period. We have observed more on this
head under the article commerce, in the description of New Spain.
The military force of Cuba consists chiefly in militia, the
amount of which arm is stated to exceed 26,000; most of whom are
undisciplined. This island, notwithstanding the immense droves of
wild cattle and swine which roam about it, is supplied from the
Caraccas with provisions.
Cuba has also adhered to the royal cause.
HAVANNAH.
THE capital of this island is that well known town called the
_Havannah_, founded by Velasquez, in the commencement of the
sixteenth century, in 23° 12ʹ north latitude, 82° 14ʹ west
longitude, on the north coast, opposite to the Floridas.
The harbour is very fine, and capable of containing the largest
fleet in safety. This harbour and the town have been fortified as
strongly as possible; the Spaniards looking on this port as the key
of their North American possessions.
The only fault in this excellent port is, that the entrance is very
narrow and difficult; so much so, that during war, vessels have
been taken going in; on account of only one being able to pass at
a time, the rearmost vessels have fallen into the hands of the
pursuing ships, without their comrades being able to assist them.
This channel is however so strongly fortified during its whole
length, that it would be hazardous in the extreme, for an enemyʼs
fleet to enter. The mouth has a fort on each side; that on the
east, is called Moro Castle, on a high rock; which is a triangular
work, mounted with forty pieces of heavy cannon, having a battery
nearly level with the water at the foot of the rock; that on the
west is called Punta, and communicates with the city; this is a
square fort, strongly built, and well supplied with artillery.
The city is surrounded with works, mounted with numerous heavy
guns. A square citadel is erected, near the center of the town, and
is called El Fuerte; this work has also heavy cannon, and on this
the Spanish garrison and inhabitants place their chief dependance.
The captain-generalʼs palace is in it, and here the treasure is
deposited; and the fortifications are said to be commanded by hills
in the immediate neighbourhood.
The city contains eleven fine churches; two hospitals, a dock yard,
lazaretto, and numerous public buildings; an aqueduct supplies the
shipping with water, and turns the saw mills in the dock yard.
The town stands in a plain on the west side of the harbour, and the
houses, which are elegant, are mostly of stone. There are several
convents; and the great square is a fine ornament of the place.
The churches are highly and magnificently ornamented with gold and
silver lamps, images, &c. The manners of the inhabitants are said
to be more polished than in most of the American cities, and they
have societies for the encouragement of the arts and sciences.
During the stay of the fleet from Mexico, an immense commerce is
carried on, but at this time provisions are very dear; they are
in general high in price and difficult to obtain, owing to the
indolence of the natives, and the number of persons constantly
arriving here for the purposes of commerce from the interior, and
the other American ports: all the vessels from the east coast of
Spanish America, calling here on their way to Europe.
The importance of this city and harbour, has caused it to be
repeatedly attacked; it was taken in 1536, by a French pirate, but
ransomed for 700 dollars; it was again taken by the English and by
the French and by the Buccaneers; but the most memorable attack was
that executed by the British in 1762. Admiral Sir George Pococke,
and Lord Albemarle, conducted a fleet and troops to the Havannah,
and after a determined resistance of two months and eight days,
on the 14th of August, the Moro Castle and place surrendered,
as well as a district of 180 miles to the west of the town. The
victors captured nine sail of the line; three more were sunk by the
Spaniards; two on the stocks were burnt, and a great many merchant
vessels, loaded with valuable cargoes, completed the spoil. The
valuable merchandize and specie found in the place, was supposed
to amount to three millions sterling. Thus, after incredible
hardships, efforts of extraordinary valour, and a display of
unequalled judgment on the part of the commanders, did this gallant
force take this strong fortress; and were recompensed by the
applauses of their nation, the paralyzation of the enemy, and an
immense booty.
This city was restored to Spain at the peace of 1763; since which
period, the Government has been constantly employed in increasing
its strength and resources.
The trade of this port is computed to amount, by importations, (the
exportations being chiefly in sugar, wax and coffee,) to twenty
millions of piastres.
The inhabitants of the Havannah amount to 25,000, whilst the total
population of the island of Cuba is estimated to be about 550,000.
The other principal towns of Cuba are St. Jago, Puerto del
Principe, Bayamo, Trinidad, Batabano, Santa Cruz, Baracoa, and
Cadiz.
_St. Jago_, was formerly the capital of the island; it is situated
in 20° north latitude, and 76° west longitude, 269 leagues from
the Havannah. The country about St. de Jago de Cuba, or Cuba, is
mountainous, and this part of the island is frequently visited by
earthquakes, which are generally of a slight nature. The harbour of
Cuba is very good, and extends six miles inland; the entrance to it
is similar to that of Havannah, very narrow and long, and defended
by a castle called the Moro, and several batteries. Cuba is the see
of a bishop, who was formerly the suffragan of that of St. Domingo;
the bishop residing at present almost always at Havannah, and the
trade of the island being concentrated there, has reduced St. Jago
from its former splendour: It is still however a fine town, and
well peopled. The women are said to excel in beauty.
_Puerto del Principe_, or _Villa del Principe_, is 145 miles
north-west of St. Jago, in 21° 17ʹ north latitude, 77° 45ʹ west
longitude, and is remarkable for the fertility of the country
around it, where large droves of cattle are nourished by the
luxuriancy of the pasturage in the savannahs.
_Bayamo_, or _St. Salvador_, in 20° 46ʹ north latitude, and 76° 55ʹ
west longitude, is situated in the eastern end of Cuba, and on the
little river Estero, nearly twenty miles from the ocean. This town
gave its name to the Bayamo channel, which runs amongst the land
and low rocks, which Columbus called Jardin de la Reyna, or Queenʼs
garden.
_Trinidad_ is in 21° 42ʹ north latitude, and 80° 6ʹ west longitude,
on a bay in the south coast. Trinidad is a fine sea-port, but of
little consequence.
_Batabano_ is nearly opposite the Pinos Islands, on the south
side of the island of Cuba, near a very large bay, fifty miles
south-west of the Havannah.
_Baracoa_ is a sea-port, on the north-east shore of the island,
with an excellent harbour for vessels of small tonnage; it is
situated in 21° 4ʹ north latitude, and 76° 10ʹ west longitude;
about seventeen leagues north-east of Cuba, or St. Jago.
_Santa Cruz_ is a large town on the north coast, 30 miles east of
the Havannah, and 115 north west of Cadiz.
_Cadiz_ is situated in Cadiz Bay on the north coast of Cuba, 164
miles east of Havannah, and fifty miles north of Espiritu Santo, in
23° 2ʹ north latitude, 79° 55ʹ west longitude, and about ten miles
west of Cadiz river.
Round the island of Cuba are several groups of rocks, and one large
islet, named _Pinos_, which is situated near the south coast of
Cuba, and separated from it by a channel, sixteen leagues long,
and six wide; this island has several good and secure roads, but
is uninhabited, except by a few fishermen, who occasionally dwell
on its coasts. The only animals on it are goats, but it abounds
in pastures and large trees. Pinos is about 42 miles long, and 34
broad, in 21° 38ʹ north latitude, 82° 45ʹ and west longitude.
_ISLANDS NEAR THE COASTS_
OF NEW SPAIN AND GUATIMALA.
The islands belonging to Spanish North America near its coasts,
are numerous, both in the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, but most of
them are either uninhabited or unimportant from their being small.
Commencing on the north-east shores of the Intendancy of San Luis
Potosi, and proceeding along its maritime borders southward, we
meet with very numerous long strips of insulated land, the very
names of most of which are unknown; but from their situation, they
must be very fertile and will probably soon become of some use;
such are the islands in the bays of Galveston, St. Bernardo, at
the estuary of the great Rio Bravo del Norte, and on the coast of
New Santander; of these the island of _St. Luis_, which embraces
the above-mentioned bays, is one of the largest, with the island
of _St. Josef_, extending from the bay of St. Bernardo to Lake
Espiritu Santo, and _La Carbonera_, reaching from the same lake to
the Barra de Santander. On the coasts of the Intendancy of Vera
Cruz are the island of _Ramirez_ in the gulf or lake of Tamiagua, a
large isle in the centre, and the smaller island of _Tore_. In the
bay of Vera Cruz are the islands of _Sacrifices_, _Juan de Ulua_,
and others, which are small and sandy.
_Juan de Ulua_ was first visited by Grijalva, in 1518, who gave
it the name of Ulua, from having seen the remains of some human
sacrifices, which the natives told him they were in the habit of
offering here by order of the king of Acolhua. The interpreters who
only spoke the language of Yucatan called the Mayo, believed that
Acolhua or Ulua was the name of the island. A very strong fortress
called the castle of St. Juan dʼUlua now covers nearly the whole
rock, in the form of an irregular square, with advanced works
towards the sea front; the expense of finishing this fortress is
said to have been upwards of eight millions sterling; it contains
fine barracks, cisterns, and a newly erected giratory light-house,
placed at its eastern extremity, which was built according to the
plan of M. Mendoza, the astronomer, who lately died in London. It
consists of a high tower, on the top of which is the lantern with
the lamps fixed on a triangle, turning by means of clock-work; the
lights disappearing alternately, are supplied with a current of air
and reflectors. This beautiful building cost about 20,000_l._ and
is worthy of notice, on account of its utility in so dangerous a
navigation as the channel of Vera Cruz is at all times.
The island of _Sacrifices_ was so called, from the first
discoverers observing the numerous remains of the victims immolated
by the Mexican priests.
In the environs of the river Alvarado, several rivers descending
from the interior, form numerous islands at their junction with the
sea, and farther to the south are the islands of _Guascualco_ at
the mouth of the river of the same name and the island of _Tabasco_
on which that town is situated.
Near the boundary of the provinces of Vera Cruz and Merida or
Yucatan, in the lake or gulf of Terminos, are the islands of
_Triste_ and _Port Royal_; the former is on the south-west side
of the gulf and west of Port Royal, from which it is separated
by a narrow channel only. Triste, or as it is sometimes written
Trieste, is in north latitude, 18° 20ʹ, and is eighteen miles
in circumference, containing valuable mahogany and logwood, cut
annually by the British. Port Royal is smaller, and is also called
_Puerto Escondido_, having a small harbour, in north latitude 18°
22ʹ, west longitude 92° 86ʹ.
In the Intendancy of Merida, the western side has several small
islands off its shores; of these the dangerous rocks called the
Alacranes, are the chief, the others, such as Arenas, Sisal, &c.
are chiefly sand banks above water, most of which are well laid
down in the charts of the Mexican gulf.
To the north of Merida, and between Cape Catoche and False Cape,
are a group of islands, of which _Las Mugeres_, or Womenʼs isle,
is the most easterly; this isle is called Mohair Key in some maps,
owing to the pronunciation of the Spanish word for women having a
similar sound.
These islands were explored by the fleet under Cortez, in a storm
which drove one of his vessels into their harbours.
On the east of Yucatan is the Island of _Cozumel_, or _Cosumel_
forty miles long, and from three to ten in breadth, in 19° 40ʹ
north-latitude, 85° 51ʹ west longitude; which is very fertile, and
abounds in cattle and fowls. It is inhabited by an Indian tribe,
and was first explored by Juan de Grijalva, on the thirteenth of
April 1518, when he gave it the name of Santa Cruz, because it
was discovered on the day of the invention of the Holy Cross. On
landing here the natives fled to the woods, but they took two
old men in a field of maize, here they found an Indian woman of
Jamaica, who had been driven on the coast with her husband and nine
men in a storm; the natives had sacrificed all her party to their
gods, and she gladly placed herself under the protection of the
Spaniards.
The Island of Cozumel was again visited by Fernando Cortez shortly
afterwards, in his expedition to Mexico; he reviewed his troops
here on shore, and found them to amount to 508, besides 109 seamen.
The 508 soldiers were now divided into eleven companies, with ten
brass field-pieces, four falconets, thirteen musketeers, thirty-two
cross bowmen, and sixteen horses. Cozumel had at that time several
temples, one of which was in the shape of a square tower, hollow at
top, with four large windows or openings and galleries, in which
were many idols; at the foot was a wall with a sort of battlements,
and on this was a cross three yards high, drawn with white lime.
From these high buildings, and on account of the resemblance of
this white mark to a cross, Grijalva named the Island and adjoining
coast New Spain. It was here they first saw the pecari or sus
tajassu, a sort of hog, with its navel on the back, or rather an
open glandular orifice, discharging an oily fetid liquor, which is
cut out when the animal is killed, otherwise it would taint the
whole carcase.
The Spaniards having heard the word Castellano, repeated by the
Indians in the former voyages, Cortez enquired of the Caciques,
if any whites existed among them, and learning that there were,
he gave large presents to some of them and dispatched them to the
neighbouring continent to search for and bring any European who
might be there to him; he also sent two ships to Cape Catoche,
where the word Castellano had been most frequently heard; in
consequence of these exertions, which he doubtless made to gain a
knowledge of the interior from the captives, Jeronimo de Aguilar
gained his liberty, and went to another Spaniard, Alonzo Guerrero,
to obtain his freedom, and to solicit him to accompany him; but
Alonzo having married an Indian woman, by whom he had several
children, would not return to his countrymen; and Aguilar lost
so much time in endeavouring to persuade him, that the ships had
already sailed, the appointed time for their stay being only eight
days; but one of the ships having sprung a leak, the whole fleet
returned to Cozumel a few hours after they had left it. Aguilar now
crossed to the island in a canoe, and presented himself to Cortez.
He had nearly forgotten his native language, was so dark from the
burning climate, and almost naked, that it was with difficulty he
was recognised as a Spaniard; he carried a paddle in his hand,
and had an old prayer-book in a tattered bundle on his back; on
coming before Cortez, he squatted down on his hams after the Indian
fashion, and no one discovered that he was the Spaniard they were
seeking for. He said at last, that he was a native of Ecija, and
had been brought up for the church; but had been wrecked eight
years before, in a voyage from Hispaniola to Darien. He and his
companions in misfortune tried to reach Cuba in the shipʼs boat,
but were drifted by the currents on this coast, where the Indians
made them all slaves.
Most of them had been sacrificed to the idols; others, among whom
were two women, were worn out with disease and fatigue, and soon
died. Guerrero and himself were the only survivors; Aguilar had
been condemned to die, but had escaped to a friendly chief, who had
ever since protected him. He knew nothing of the interior, being
kept constantly employed in getting wood and water, and in the
cultivation of maize. Guerrero had adopted the Indian manners, and
had headed them in their attacks on the former navigators. Aguilar
was much employed by Cortez in the subsequent conquest of Mexico.
The great temple of Cozumel was served by a priest in a long
mantle, who addressed the people from the summit. They burnt
incense before the idols, which so enraged Cortez, that he ordered
his soldiers to destroy them, and made the Indians build an altar
on the top, on which he placed an image of the Holy Virgin; and a
crucifix being erected, one of the chaplains said mass, to which
the people paid much attention, and as it afterwards appeared,
burnt incense before the image and cross.
Cozumel was formerly inhabited by the Spaniards, at the ruins of
several buildings, situated in a wood of palm-trees, indicate.
_Ambergris Key_, or Ubero Island, is the next of any consequence
south of Cozumel. It lies in the Bay of Hanover, is seventy miles
long, but narrow, and nearly shuts in the mouth of the bay. It
is opposite to this island that the British logwood cutters are
settled; besides Ambergris Key, there are several smaller islands
in Hanover Bay.
The British settlements extend from the mouth of the river Hondo,
to the north of Hanover Bay. This bay is in 18° 45ʹ north latitude,
and 89° 15ʹ west longitude, where it receives the Rio Hondo.
_Turneff Island_, lies south of the former; is in 17° 16ʹ north
latitude, 88° 20ʹ west longitude; twenty miles in length, and ten
in breadth; abounding in cocoa-nut trees, and constantly frequented
by the fishermen of the adjacent coasts. This part of the coast, as
well as that of Vera Paz, and the gulf of Amatique, is also studded
with islets.
On the coast of Honduras, towards the northern part, lie the
islands of Utila, Ruatan, and Bonacao, of which _Bonacao_ is
supposed to be the _Guanaia_ of Columbus, the first island
discovered by him in his fourth voyage. He made his brother
Bartholomew land here, who found lapis calaminaris, which some
of the sailors supposing to be gold, concealed lumps of for a
length of time. He took a canoe full of people on board his ship,
which came from the adjacent continent, and obtained information
concerning it from them; but the land lying to leeward, he did not
attempt to explore it, and therefore held on to the eastward, and
discovered Cape Casinas, or Honduras. Bonacao, is about sixty miles
in circumference, lying in 16° 30ʹ north latitude, 86° 23ʹ west
longitude.
_Ruatan_ or _Rattan_, in 16° 24ʹ north latitude, and 87° 10ʹ west
longitude, is thirty miles long and twelve broad, with a fine
harbour. The island is surrounded with shoals; it was settled by
the British in 1741, for the purpose of carrying on the logwood
trade, but was soon abandoned.
_Utila_ is a small island to the south-west of Ruatan.
_The Swan Islands_ are a group at some distance from the
north-coast of Honduras, being chiefly barren rocks. Off Cape
Gracias à Dios, are a multitude of islets and shoals.
Misteriosa and Santanilla are at a still greater distance, nearly
in the middle of the gulf of Honduras.
_Santanilla_, consists of two small islands surrounded with rocks,
in 17° 20ʹ north latitude, 85° 30ʹ west longitude.
_Misteriosa_ to the north-west of these, seems to be a considerable
bank or shoal.
_Viciosas_ is a cluster of very small isles, in 15° 12ʹ north
latitude, and 84° 4ʹ west longitude, opposite to the Bay of
Carthago.
_Cocoa-nut keys and Carrantasca shoals_ are other small clusters,
to the north of Cape Gracias à Dios.
South of Cape Gracias à Dios are several groups of small islands
and rocks. Tangulaco, Man of War Keys, Pearl Keys, little Corn
Island, Great Corn Island, and a multitude of little islets, line
the eastern shore of Honduras.
_The Pearl Keys_ are a groupe of islets near Pearl Key lagoon, on
the Mosquito shore, in north latitude 11° 15ʹ, west longitude 83°
12ʹ.
St. Andres and Santa Catalina, or Old Providence, lie farther out
at sea than the last mentioned.
_St Andres_ or _Andero_ is situated, in 12° 30ʹ north latitude,
81° 40ʹ west longitude, south south-east of Cape Gracias à Dios,
and west south-west of _Providence Island_, which lies 80° 45ʹ
west longitude; and 13° 26ʹ north latitude, is eleven miles long
and four broad, with a good soil, excellent water, and pleasant
climate. It was formerly inhabited, as well as many other small
isles in these seas, by the Buccaneers, who fortified it. It
is said there are no serpents or venomous reptiles found here,
although it is near a continent in which they are so plentiful; at
present this isle is uninhabited.
Roncador, Serranilla and Serrana, are to the north-east of the last.
_Roncador_ is in 13° 45ʹ north latitude, and 79° 30ʹ west longitude.
_Serranilla_ Isles, are a cluster of small islands, in north
latitude 16° 10ʹ, west longitude 80° 10ʹ.
_Serrana_ or _Pearl Island_, so called from Serrana, a Spanish
navigator, who was wrecked on it, is in 14° 5ʹ north latitude, 78°
50ʹ west longitude. All these which lie to the east of Honduras are
small.
In the bay or lake of Chiriqui on the coast of Veragua, are several
groupes, of which Provision Island and Bocalero are the principal
ones.
The whole of the eastern coast of Spanish North America abounds
with islets, rocks, shoals and sand-banks, and there are
consequently but few good harbours; for although there are many
deep bays and gulfs, yet the entrances to them are in general
blocked up.
The western coast is in the contrary extreme, vary bold, and with
few Islands; in describing these we shall commence on the north off
the coasts of New California, where the first are the rocks, called
in Spanish the _Farallones_, in 37° 48ʹ 10ʺ north latitude, and
123° 1ʹ west longitude.
The next are the island of _Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo_, in 34° north
latitude, and 120° 31ʹ west longitude.
The island of _San Nicholas_ in 33° 16ʹ north latitude, and 119°
30ʹ west longitude.
The island of _San Salvador_ in 32° 43ʹ north latitude, and 118°
30ʹ west longitude.
Island of _St. Martin_, or _de los Coronados_, a small groupe in
32° 25ʹ north latitude, and 117° 18ʹ west longitude.
Island of _San Bernardo_ in 29° 40ʹ north latitude, and 115° 56ʹ
west longitude.
Island of _Guadalupe_ in 28° 53ʹ north latitude, and 118° 17ʹ west
longitude.
This last island is about thirteen miles long, composed of high,
rocky and naked mountains with two small islands, one about a mile
west south-west and the other two miles south of its southern
point. The latitude and longitude are that of its southern cape,
the island itself running thirteen miles farther to the north.
The island of _San Benito_ is small and surrounded with shoals; it
is mountainous, and its highest part is in 28° 18ʹ north latitude,
115° 46ʹ west longitude.
Island of _Cedros_ in 28° 2ʹ north latitude, and 115° 23ʹ west
longitude.
To the south, off the coast of Old California, the islands are not
so numerous; there are however, several very small ones in some of
the bays, and near the bay of La Magdalena one large one, named _La
Margarita_, of which nothing is known excepting that it is about
forty or fifty miles in length, and hilly.
On the east coast of Old California are several small islands,
much used in the former pearl fishery; of these, proceeding from
Cape St. Lucas to the extremity of the Vermillion Sea, are the
islands _Cerralbo_ and _del Espiritu Santo_, near the Mission de
la Paz; islands of _San Francisco_, and _San Jose_, with several
smaller ones. Island of _Santa Cruz_, island of _Montserrat_, and
island of _Catalina_, near Puerto Escondido, and a large island
near the coast of the Mission of Loretto; of these _Santa Cruz_ is
famous, as having been the abode of Cortez during his expedition
to California; he remained on it a considerable time, suffering
dreadful hardships, and losing the greater part of his followers by
famine and disease. Santa Cruz is in 25° 23ʹ north latitude, and
110° 47ʹ west longitude.
Island of _St. Lorenzo_ opposite Tiburon isle, and the
Island of _Santa Ines_, or _Angel de la Guarda_, a fine and
extensive tract.
In the estuary of the Gila and Colorado, at the extremity of the
gulf, another large island appears, but of it nothing certain is
known; descending the gulf of California on the eastern shore, off
the province of Sonora, are the islands of _Tiburon_, _Tortuga_,
_Lobos_, _San Ignacio_, and several smaller ones.
_Tiburon_ is the largest of these, and appears to be about sixty
miles in length.
Off the shore of the intendancy of Guadalaxara is the islet of
_Isabella_ in 21° 50ʹ north latitude, and 105° 56ʹ west longitude.
Islet of _Juanico_ in 21° 45ʹ north latitude, and 107° 41ʹ west
longitude.
_Piedra Blanca_ at the mouth of the Rio Grande de Santiago, and in
the port of San Blas, in 21° 33ʹ and 105° 17ʹ west longitude.
_Las Tres Marias_ abounding with wood, water, salt-pits and game,
which cause them to be frequented by the English and American
whalers; the French and English pirates used to winter in them,
when they cruised in the South Seas. The south cape of the
easternmost island is in 21° 16ʹ north latitude, and 106° 17ʹ
west longitude. They were named Islands de la Magdalena, by Diego
de Mendoza in 1532, and are occasionally visited by the Spaniards
from Saint Blas, for the flax and lignum vitæ they produce. South
of these, and near cape Corrientes, is the islet Isasvirivil in 20°
45ʹ north latitude, and 105° 57ʹ west longitude.
The Revillagigedo islands, which are a considerable distance
from the coast, are four in number. Santa Rosa, Socorro, Rocca
Partida, and San Benedito; their origin seems to be volcanic, as
pumice stones are found in them; _Santa Rosa_ is in 18° 37ʹ north
latitude, 114° 3ʹ west longitude. _Socorro_, the highest summit of
which is more than 3657 feet above the sea, is the largest of the
group, but not above fifteen or twenty miles broad and long, and is
situated in 18° 48ʹ north latitude, 110° 9ʹ west longitude. _Rocca
Partida_ is in 19° 4ʹ north latitude, 111° 5ʹ longitude. _San
Benedito_ in 19° 18ʹ north latitude, and 110° 53ʹ west longitude.
Socorro was visited by Captain Collnett, on the 20th September,
1793. He afterwards saw other islands of this group.
At Socorro no anchorage could be found near the shore, the coast
being exceeding bold and steep, except in a small cove where they
had only ten fathoms; which place he judged to be too insecure.
On this island, which consists of one very elevated summit and
several detached points, that have a singular and picturesque
appearance, the crew of his ship procured plenty of wild beans
and prickly pears; they also sowed all sorts of garden seeds and
some cocoa nuts. Leaving Socorro they went to San Benedito, or San
Berto, where they procured the same fruits: they then explored
Rocca Partida; its greatest length was fifty or sixty fathoms,
its breadth, thirty five, with two separated pinnacles, which
are about 120 feet in height, and look exactly like a ship under
jury-masts, when seen from afar: its distance from Socorro is about
forty-eight miles west. Here they saw a prodigious quantity of
fish, but could only catch a few, owing to the multitude of sharks
which destroyed their lines. A man reaching over the gun-wale of
the boat, one of these ravenous animals attempted to bite his hand
off, and they even seized the steering oar at the stern, so that
they were obliged to lay it in.
Man of war birds and seals were the only habitants of this dreary
rock. They steered from hence to the coast of California, and
returned to Socorro on the 25th of November, 1793; after examining
the coast they found a small bay on the south, with twenty-five
fathoms water and good anchorage; the surface of the island on
being explored, appeared to consist of a fine loose cinder,
excepting on the north-east, where the ground was more firm.
Captain Collnettʼs crew being very weak, and his ship in a bad
state, he staid here only long enough to procure fish and fruit,
and before his departure named the group Revillagegido, out of
compliment to the Viceroy of that name, who had treated him with
kindness whilst a prisoner at Mexico.
These islands were originally discovered by the Spaniards.
The whole coast from hence to Guaxaca and along the shores of
the kingdom of Guatimala presents no islands of any consequence
until we reach the extremity of Veragua, towards the south, where,
between Cape Dulce and Cape Mariato are the isles Zedzones,
Mentuosa, Quibo, or Caybo, and Quicaras; the first are merely small
barren rocks.
_Mentuosa_ rises to a considerable height, covered with cocoa-nut
and other trees, and is about five or six miles in circumference,
in 7° 15ʹ north latitude and 82° 40ʹ west longitude. The _Quicaras_
are two islets, one of which is seven miles, the other two or three
in length, and about twelve miles south of Caybo; they are also
covered with trees.
_Caybo_, or _Quibo_, was visited by Lord Anson, in his celebrated
circumnavigation of the world, on the 3d of December, 1741; when he
came to anchor near Canal Bueno, and staid here until the 12th of
the same month.
They found plenty of water and wood. The island is of moderate
height, and thickly covered with a forest of cassia, limes, &c.
Tigers, monkeys, wolves, and deer, abound, but were all extremely
shy. Parrots, parroquets, macaws, hawks and vultures were seen in
large flights; guanos, alligators of enormous size, the hawkʼs-bill
and green turtle were found in great numbers, and the shores
abounded with sharks, sea snakes, and various sorts of fish.
Venemous reptiles were common, amongst which was the dreadful
hooded snake. This island was afterwards visited by Captain
Collnett, in 1794, who was bitten in the knee by one of these
serpents, and continued for a length of time in great danger.
The writer of the voyage of Commodore Anson, speaks with great
delight of the beauties of this isle, and mentions a cascade in
the north-east part, which surpassed any thing of the kind they
had ever observed; it was formed by a river of transparent water,
rushing between rocks, over a ledge forty yards wide, and 150 in
length, overhung by beautiful tropical plants; a flight of macaws
passing over, and hovering about whilst they were observing this
fall, added, by the glittering appearance of their beautiful
plumage, to the singularity of the scene. The cedar trees were of
enormous size, and the place affords, from its good anchorages,
every facility to a distressed vessel cruizing in the Pacific.
The coast abounds with whales.
These are the last islands of Spanish North America in the Pacific
Ocean; with them we therefore conclude the description of that
portion of the trans-atlantic colonies of Spain.
END OF PART THE FIRST.