Visit to the Forum and the Colosseum: Crossing the Tiber: Castle of St.
Angelo: Palace of Justice: Trajan’s Column: Garibaldi’s Monument: The
Appian Way: St. Peter’s: Its magnitude and magnificence: Michael Angelo’s
work.
[Picture: Christian martyrs in the Colosseum, Rome]
Our first visit was to the Colosseum. Among the many sights of Rome none
give us a better idea of its ancient civilisation than the Forum and the
Colosseum. The heart of the great Roman Empire throbbed in the Forum.
Here was, at one time, the Senate, the market, the courts, indeed, it was
the very centre of the life of Rome. As we gazed upon the ruins, the
vast marble columns, still standing, its broken arches, and gables in
ruins, it needed no great stretch of the imagination to fancy we were
back to the palmy days of Rome, and the Forum is ringing with the cheers
of the vast populace who have sat under Cicero’s eloquence; or, we fancy
we can hear the tramp of Roman legions as they return from some nightly
conquest, passing the gates of this remarkable building. The ground it
covered would be about 250,000 square feet. These, of course, embraced
the market place, the rostrum, several temples, and the triumphal arch.
The whole building was of marble, and with its marvellous architecture,
it must, in its glory, have presented a striking appearance. The Palace
of Cæsar stands just behind. We had a chance of seeing a little of the
gardens, once belonging to this palace. Enough of the remains serve to
show something of the wealth and luxury of those ancient Emperors. I
took two snap-shots of a part of the ruins of this wonderful place. In
my photograph the marble columns are seen to be standing, and they are
where they have stood for the last fifteen hundred years at least. From
here to the Colosseum, no less wonderful than the Forum, we then made our
way. The first view of it filled us with awe. In its ruins it is
awfully grand. It must surely be the most imposing ruin in Rome, and it
is the most historically interesting relic of ruin in the world.
Vespasian began to build it in the year 72 A.D., and the Emperor Titus
completed it in the year 80 A.D. Historians tell us it was built by the
forced labour of Jews and Christians. Its architect, they tell us, was
one “Gaudentius,” who afterwards became a Christian, and died a martyr
within the walls he himself had planned and helped to build. Originally
it would hold in all 100,000 people, and 90,000 could be seated in its
vast galleries and rooms. It would cover, apparently, about six acres of
land. Down to the sixth century it remained in its beauty undiminished,
and little decayed. Inside the vast building was a fine statue of Nero.
The extreme length of the walls outside are about six hundred feet, and
the width nearly five hundred feet. There was originally a portico
carried round the whole building, adorned with gilded columns, while
statues of the finest marble filled the arcades, and there were rich
awnings of silk for a protection from the sun’s heat. It is stated the
carnival lasted for several weeks, and no less than five thousand wild
beasts, some from the Indian Jungles, and some from the African morasses
took part. These terrible gladiator fights were the amusements for the
aristocracy of Italy, and were attended by stately courtiers and the
nobles of the land. We saw the bars still standing in the ruins, behind
which the wild beasts lurked, waiting to be turned into the arena to
fight with gladiators, i.e., men trained, who with their lives in their
hands were prepared for this terrible ordeal. If they came out with the
trophy they were applauded, and with honours escorted through the streets
of Rome.
[Picture: The Roman Forum, Rome] Sometimes, at the bidding of the wicked
Emperor Nero, one hundred Christians would be brought into the arena,
when a vast crowd would be present to watch four or five lions and as
many tigers turned in, wild with fury, and mad with hunger, the Christian
martyrs were soon delivered from their fleshly tenement and went up to
their reward. It is said that St. Ignatius was brought from Antioch to
be devoured by these wild beasts. Church traditions record many martyrs
within these now ruins. Byron says:
“I see before me the Gladiator lie;
He leans upon his hand, his manly brow
Consents to death, but conquers agony.
The arena swims around him, he is gone
E’er ceased the inhuman shout which hailed the wretch who won.
He heard it, but he heeded not; his eyes
Were with his heart, and that was far away.
There were his young barbarians all at play.
There was their Dacian mother—he their sire
Butchered to make a Roman holiday.”
Or Keble:
“And now the gratings ope, with hideous roar
Leap forth those hungry brutes, while kneel in prayer,
Those heaps of Christians, how their spirits soar
Above or wounds or death.”
I stood and gazed, and thought, by those terrible ruins. I think I was
as much affected as when I stood and gazed upon those marvellous
structures, the Pyramids of Egypt. I took a snap-shot of my dear little
wife within the ruins of the Colosseum, and we left it to ponder over its
history and its ruin. We thought of the prophecy in prose of an
Anglo-Saxon Pilgrim. He said: “While stands the Colosseum, Rome shall
stand; when falls the Colosseum, Rome shall fall. And when Rome
falls—the world.”
[Picture: The Pantheon, Rome]
“The Pantheon” was one of the places we were delighted with. This dated
from before Christ’s time, and is now in a wonderful state of
preservation. It was originally dedicated by Agrippa to “All the gods.”
It was consecrated as a church in the year 610 A.D. by Pope Boniface IV.,
under the name of St. Maria. The portico consists of sixteen granite
corinthian columns nearly forty feet high, eight in the front and the
others in three colonnades. Inside, we were struck with its beauty,
especially by the arrangement for light which comes from a vast dome over
our heads. We walked reverently as we knew we were walking on the very
same pavement as Augustus and Agrippa, and others whose dust has long
centuries ago, gone to its mother earth. Here rest the remains of one of
the world’s greatest painters—Raphael. He was buried in 1620. In recent
years a doubt was raised as to whether he really was buried here, and a
search was allowed and made in 1833, it was then ascertained beyond the
shadow of a doubt that he was buried here, as his remains were intact.
On leaving the Pantheon, and before crossing the Tiber, we were reminded
of the poet’s words referring to this church: “Simple, erect, austere,
sublime—Shrine of all saints and temple of all gods from Jove to
Jesus—Spared and blest by time, looking tranquilly while falls or nods
arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods his way through thorns
and ashes—glorious dome! shalt thou not last? Times’ scythe and tyrant’s
rods shiver upon thee—Sanctuary and home of art and piety—Pantheon!
Pride of Rome.”
After crossing the Tiber on one of its many wonderful bridges, adorned on
each side by statues in stone of the celebrities of all ages, we found
that just opposite this bridge is what is called the Castle of St.
Angelo. An immense pile, circular in form, on its summit a large
monument, and in front a clock of very large dimensions. It was erected
by the Emperor Adrian, and intended to be for his own tomb and those of
succeeding kings or emperors. We did not go inside, but we learned it
was fitted and filled with the finest works of art, specially that in
marble finished by the sculptor’s chisel. From here we started to drive
to our hotel, for we were satiated with the wonderful sights of Rome. We
passed the Palace of Justice, a modern building, indeed, only just having
the finishing touches put upon it. It is of granite, the size is immense
and the appearance noble. As we passed, churches and theatres seemed to
be numerous. Gay and grave, sad and happy, new and old. There “Beeston
Humber Motor Cycle” advertised. There the ruins of a building that had
stood for a thousand years.
The Column of Trajan calls for a passing note. It is a fine specimen of
the Doric order, and very fortunately it is in a good state of
preservation. On three sides of the pedestal there are bas-reliefs, on
the fourth side is an inscription to Trajan’s tomb. On the column are
over 20 very fine carvings, representing the various wars in which he had
taken part. On the top is a fine statue of the Apostle St. Peter. As we
stood and looked upon this ancient monument and thought of the fact that
it had stood there for well nigh on 2,000 years, we re-called the words
of a poet who represents fairly the condition of things in Trajan’s day.
B. E. H. Plumbtree says:
“Through haughty Rome’s imperial street
The mighty Trajan rode,
And myrrh and balm and spices sweet
In silver censers glowed;
In car of state erect he stood,
And round him rushing like a flood
The people poured with shout and song,
And every eye through all that throng
Turned to him with delight.
For he had triumphed far and wide,
Had sated Rome’s high-soaring pride,
And, laying captive nations low,
Now dragged the pale and trembling foe
Bent down in sore affright.
And still before him spread afar
New pathways for his conquering car,
More crowns of world-wide fame to win
’Mid shouts of warriors battle din:
One triumph being o’er he spurned
And still his fevered spirit burned
New realms, new worlds to gain.
And still his legions on he led,
Legions that ne’er from foe had fled,
The glory of his reign.”
We left the mighty column standing in its solitary grandeur, a memorial
of man’s achievement, while yet other things around us testified to the
instability of all earthly things. “Change and decay in all around I
see.”
We reached our hotel tired and hungry. We, however, soon found the value
of a good wash, then a good table-de-hote meal, and then to write up our
diaries and think of the day’s experiences, then to go to rest. After a
good night’s sleep we rose refreshed. Had a good wash, then breakfast.
After letters, postcards, etc., we prepared for further investigations of
the great city. We went out, but no sooner did we appear in the great
square facing our hotel, when, I should think, at least a dozen cabmen
turned their horses heads towards us, asking for our patronage. We could
only hire one, so we had choice and it fell upon a decent looking man—the
very picture of a son of Italy—with a very good looking horse. This time
we drove to the mound upon which stands the noble monument to General
Garibaldi, the statue of one of Italy’s noblest heroes and patriots.
Garibaldi was born at Nice in 1807. His family were quite obscure, and
without name or fame. His father had a small coasting vessel, and to
this, probably, is due something of the adventurous spirit of his son.
When he had attained his manhood, he went to Genoa and then to Rome.
Here he joined a band called “Young Italy,” and as a member of this band
he was indicted for treason and sentenced to death.
[Picture: Garibaldi’s Monument, Rome]
By some means he escaped this sentence and fled to Marseilles in France.
From here to South America, and here he joined the army and fought
against Brazil. He became a most adventurous and daring leader. In 1848
he returned to Italy with a view to give himself to the army of Italy.
They, however, did not receive him with the cordiality he deserved. He,
however, raised an army of 1,500 brave men, like-minded with himself, and
went against the Austrians, who were threatening Italy severely and
dangerously. He showed skill and bravery on the field of battle, and so
attracted the notice of Victor Immanuel, who with his own hand fastened
on the hero’s breast the gold medal for military bravery. He became the
idol of the nation of Italy, as General Gordon might be called the hero
of the Soudan. So Garibaldi may be called the hero of Italy, and as in
Gordon’s case, riches, titles, conventional distinctions were as nothing,
so in the case of this illustrious soldier and hero. He had the honour
of a seat in the Parliament of Italy in 1875. The latter part of his
life was spent in retirement, and he died suddenly in the year 1882. And
here to his memory is erected, in the very heart of the Eternal City, a
splendid monument. His life-sized figure in bronze on a fine charger,
while around the monument are bas-reliefs of great interest. From this
high elevation we had a good view of the city and of the river Tiber,
which is about equal to our river Trent for width, it is spanned in
several places by bridges. Here we could look down the Appian Way. It
would not be difficult, standing here, to imagine just away at yonder
port, some ten or twelve miles away, a shipwrecked crew has landed its
cargo of grain; also some soldiers with three prisoners, amongst them is
Paul, the great apostle to the Gentiles. He is chained to a soldier;
they come along the Appian Way, where we are just looking—a road that had
often rung with the plaudits to the victors in many a hard fought fight.
A strange sight to see this poor man, without money, friends, or
influence. Yet he was the true conqueror of Rome. He said truly “God
hath chosen the foolish things of the world to confound the wise; and God
hath chosen the weak things of the world to confound the things that are
mighty.” Cor., chapter I, verse 27. St. Paul says again: “And so we
went towards Rome, and from thence, when the brethren heard of us, they
came to meet us as far as Appii forum, and the three taverns: whom when
Paul saw, he thanked God, and took courage.” Acts, chapter 28, verses 14
& 15. Paul is allowed to speak for himself, having appealed to Cæsar.
“And Paul dwelt two whole years in his own hired house, and received all
that came to him, preaching the Kingdom of God, and teaching those things
which concern the Lord Jesus Christ.”
Up this Way, it is likely, Titus brought up the spoils he had taken in
his overthrow of the City of Jerusalem. The spoils consisted of the “Ark
of the Covenant,” overlaid round about with gold, the golden pot that had
manna, “and Aaron’s rod that budded.” Heb., chapter 9, verse 4. From
this vantage ground we could see Rome, regal Rome, republican Rome, and
in the distance St. Peter’s and the Vatican, and many hundreds of other
churches and prominent buildings which hold the records of ecclesiastical
Rome.
We visited, of course, the grand church or cathedral of St. Peter. This
is the one thing we _must_ see. This is the goal of millions of pious
pilgrims from all lands, and at all seasons. I noticed in our
illustrated papers of about November, 1908, the Pope had been celebrating
his fifty years of priesthood, there was a great procession of thirty-six
Cardinals, four hundred Bishops, fifty thousand spectators, and St.
Peter’s offerings were asked for by His Holiness for chalices for the
poorer churches. The Duchess of Norfolk presented £500 as a response.
The Pope was carried shoulder high in the Sedia Gestoria, over the heads
of the vast masses, and as he was borne aloft, he bestowed his blessings
on all sides, and amongst all classes of people. Passing over or through
the vast throng he was placed on his golden throne, whence he grants his
indulgences and extends to his flock sympathy and prayers.
When we got within sight of the noble building we were constrained to
stand still and look and let our thoughts and feelings have full play,
for just then they were of a very mixed character, as we thought of Rome
and its history, of this building and its surroundings, and what it
meant. At the entrance we could see right through the large Piazza or
Square, in the centre of which is an obelisk, I think Egyptian in
character. On either side are fountains throwing their sparkling waters
from almost innumerable jets. Then there are colonnades also, and 284
columns, each column is about 40-feet high, and on the column a statue
about 16-feet high, these give an idea of the vastness of the building
beyond. The obelisk in St. Peter’s Square weighs 3,270 tons—it is said
that the ship that brought it from Egypt was so large that the Emperor
Claudius had it sunk at the mouth of the Tiber to serve as part of the
foundations for the outward wall of the Port of Ostia, in the year 39
A.D.
[Picture: St. Peter’s, Rome]
It was left until the year 1566 before orders were given by Pope Sextus
to have it placed in this square. At the top of this great obelisk is a
cross which is said to be a part of the real cross on which our Lord and
Saviour was crucified. Passing this outward display of grandeur in the
shape of statuary, columns and colonnades, we reached the steps leading
up to the vestibule, these are massive marble steps, with colossal
statues of St. Peter and St. Paul at the foot. It is said that this is
the largest and the most costly church in the world. It was built on the
site of the Emperor Nero’s circus, which was the scene of the most
terrible martyrdoms, and it is also said to be the place where St. Peter
was buried after his crucifixion. About the year 106 A.D., history tells
us there was a monument erected here to mark the site of St. Peter’s
tomb. Earlier a basilica was founded on this spot, which stood for over
one thousand years, then showing signs of decay (and one cannot wonder at
it). Nicholas V., in 1447, decided to erect one larger and better in its
place.