Mocha--Movement of Land--Penco--Ulloa--Shells--Coal--Maule
--Topocalma--Aconcagua--Valparaiso--Horcon--Papudo--Pichidanque
--Conchali--Herradura--Coquimbo--Wreck--Challenger--Blonde--Ride
--Estate--Colcura--Villagran--Arauco--Former caciques--Colocolo
--Caupolican--Scenery--Quiapo--Night travelling--Leübu--Tucapel
--Valdivia--Lautaro--Challenger.
When the Beagle entered Concepcion Bay, she had only one heavy anchor
left, having broken or lost the others; and as there were none fit
for her at Talcahuano, it became absolutely necessary to go to
Valparaiso: accordingly, on the 7th of March we left the melancholy
ruins and their disconsolate tenants, and on the 11th dropped our
only anchor at Valparaiso. There our wants were soon supplied, and we
sailed on the 17th to re-visit Concepcion.
From the 27th the time was occupied in surveying the neighbourhood of
Concepcion, Arauco Bay, the island of Santa Maria, and Mocha, until
the 17th of April.
Mocha is a prominent land-mark for navigators, but dangerous rocks
lie about its south-west quarter, and as the current usually sets
northward, a ship ought to beware of them. Previous to the eighteenth
century it was inhabited by Araucanian Indians, but they were driven
away by the Spaniards; and since that time a few stray animals have
been the only permanent tenants. Most of the early voyagers speak
of it. We found the anchorage indifferent, the landing bad, and no
supplies to be obtained except wood, and, with much difficulty, water.
Our duties were greatly forwarded while about Concepcion, by the
earnest and very kind assistance of the yntendente, Don José
Alemparte; and the active friendliness of Mr. Rouse, the British
consul. Though their houses were levelled, and they themselves
without any of what most Englishmen would call comfort, we were
received and attended to by them and the ‘Penquistos,’[1] as
cordially as if their nerves and minds had endured no strain.
Although it was indisputably proved to the satisfaction of every
person in the neighbourhood, that elevations of land had occurred
to the extent mentioned in the previous chapter, I strongly suspect
that a sinking down has taken place since that period, to a very
considerable amount, if not quite enough to counterbalance former
elevation. This idea is suggested by the fact that when I was last
at Talcahuano, in July 1835, only four months after the great
convulsion, the shores of Concepcion Bay had regained their former
position with respect to the level of the sea:[2]--by what the people
of Tubul told me, when I rode by, of the sea having returned to its
centre,[3] (meaning that it had regained its usual height),--and by
what the inhabitants of Santa Maria said, when they told me that
for three or four weeks immediately following the earthquake, their
little port was much shallower than it was when I went there seven
weeks afterwards.
Whether this conjecture be well founded a short time may show: if
it should be, an explanation might thus arise of the differences of
opinion respecting the permanent elevation of land near Valparaiso,
where some say it has been raised several feet during the last twenty
years, while others deny that it has been raised at all. It may have
been elevated, or upheaved as geologists say, for a time, but since
then it may have settled or sunk down again gradually to its old
position. In a place like Valparaiso Bay, where dust is so much blown
from the land to the water’s edge, and even out to sea; and where
many streams bring detritus from ravines, no decisive judgment can
be formed as to the rise of land, because of the beach increasing
gradually, and the water diminishing in depth.
In a ride along the beach of Concepcion Bay, with Mr. Rouse, we
examined the solid wall of old Penco Castle, and found on one side
the date 1686 and on another 1687.
This castle and the adjoining foundations of houses, are so near the
level of the sea, that I am surprised the inhabitants should not have
feared being frequently inundated, even by tides only a few feet
higher than usual.
If all this coast has been more or less upheaved during comparatively
modern times, how is it that the foundations of Penco still stand
at the water’s edge, very little above the level of a high spring
tide? Ulloa remarks, that “the country round the bay, particularly
that between Talcahuano and Concepcion, within four or five leagues
from the shore, is noted for a very singular curiosity, namely, that
at the depth of one-half or three-quarters of a yard beneath the
surface of the ground, is a stratum of shells of different kinds, two
or three toises in thickness, and in some places even more, without
any intermixture of earth, one large shell being joined together by
smaller, and which also fill the cavities of the larger. From these
shells all the lime used in building is made, and large pits are
dug in the earth for taking out those shells, and calcining them.
Were these strata of shells found only in low and level places, the
phenomenon would be more easily accounted for by a supposition no
ways improbable, namely, that these parts were formerly covered by
the sea, agreeable to an observation we made in our description of
Lima. But what renders it surprising is, that the like quarries of
the same kind of shells are found on the tops of mountains in this
country, fifty toises above the level of the sea. I did not indeed
personally examine the quarries on the highest of those mountains,
but was assured of their existence by persons who had lime-kilns
there; but I saw them myself on the summits of others, at the height
of twenty toises above the surface of the sea, and was the more
pleased with the sight, as it appeared to me a convincing proof of
the universality of the deluge. I am not ignorant that some have
attributed this to other causes; but an unanswerable confutation of
their subterfuge is, that the various sorts of shells which compose
these strata both in the plains and mountains, are the very same with
those found in the bay and neighbouring places. Among these shells
are three species very remarkable: the first is called ‘choros,’
already mentioned in our description of Lima; the second is called
‘pies de burros,’ asses’ feet; and the third ‘bulgados,’ and these
to me seem to preclude all manner of doubt that they were originally
produced in that sea, from whence they were carried by the waters,
and deposited in the places where they are now found.
“I have examined these parts with the closest attention, and found no
manner of vestige of subterraneous fires. No calcinations are to be
met with on the surface of the earth, nor among the shells; which, as
I have already observed, are not intermixed with earth; nor are there
stones, or any other heterogeneous substances found among them. Some
of these shells are entire, others broken, as must naturally happen
in such a close compression of them, during so long an interval of
time.
“The pie de burro has its name from the fish enclosed in it,
resembling, when taken out, the foot of an ass. This fish is of a
dark brown colour, firm and filaceous; it is an univalve, its mouth
almost circular, and its diameter about three inches. The bottom of
the shell is concave within, and convex without. The colour within is
perfectly white, the surface very smooth; the outside scabrous and
full of tubercles. Its thickness in every part is about four or five
lines; and being large, compact and heavy, it is preferred to all
others for making lime.
“The bulgados, in the Canaries called bulgaos, are snails, not at all
differing in their form from the common, but larger than those of
the same name found in gardens, being from two inches to two inches
and a-half in diameter. The shell is also very thick, rough on the
outside, and of a dark brown colour; and, next to the preceding,
makes the best lime.
“All these species of shell fish are found at the bottom of the
sea in four, six, ten, and twelve fathom water. They are caught by
drags; and what is very remarkable is, that no shells, either the
same, or that have any resemblance to them, are seen either on the
shores continually washed by the sea, or on those tracks which have
been overflowed by an extraordinary tide. They adhere to a sea-plant
called cochayuyo[4].
“This plant divides itself into several branches, equal in dimensions
to the main stem. These branches successively produce others of the
same proportion, so that the produce of one single root covers a
prodigious space. At the joints, where the branches spring, is found
this kind of shell-fish, where they both receive their nourishment,
and propagate their species.”--Ulloa’s Voyage, translated by Adams,
vol. ii. pp. 252-254.
Not far from Old Penco is the stratum of coal about which there has
lately been much discussion.
Herrera says, “There is coal upon the beach, near the city of
Concepcion: it burns like charcoal.”[5] Frezier bears witness that
near Talcahuano there is good coal, which can be obtained without
digging deeper than two feet; and he declares that the natives were
astonished at his companions taking a substance out of the earth to
burn as fuel in their forge.[6] Captain Basil Hall saw the place
whence coal had been “worked without any trouble. The seam is thick,
and apparently extensive, and might probably, with due care and
skill, be wrought to any extent.”[7] Captain Hall “laid in a supply
of coals at this place. The coals, which were brought for us to the
beach, cost twelve shillings per ton, every thing included.”[8]
Stevenson says, “To what extent the coal reaches, has never yet been
ascertained; all that has been used has been obtained by throwing
aside the mould which covers the surface. This coal is similar in
appearance to the English cannel; but it is reasonable to suppose
that if the mine were dug to any considerable depth, the quality
would be found to improve.”[9]
Many other authorities[10] might be cited to prove that coal exists
abundantly near Concepcion, and that it has often been used. There
are objections to it, by no means insuperable, which have alarmed
people, and checked the working of those mines. It is said to be
very bituminous--that it burns too quickly to ashes to answer well
for smith’s work, because it does not give heat enough--and that it
is liable to spontaneous combustion. The last objection might be
removed by keeping the coal under water,[11] and coking[12] would
render it available for the forge. Some geologists say that it is
‘mere lignite,’ and think very lightly of its quantity or value;
but practical men will doubtless attach some value to what has been
proved by experience.
On the 17th of April, the Beagle sailed from Concepcion Bay, examined
Coliumo, and, coasting along, anchored off the Maule River on the
20th. In a very thick fog, during the night of the 19th, while
carrying sail to get an offing, we were within a fathom of being run
down by a vessel crossing us on the opposite tack. As both ships were
under all sail, and it was dark, our momentary sensations were far
from agreeable.
To land here was perplexing enough, for a heavy surf broke on the
bar of the river, and nearly as much along the shore; but with some
risk and difficulty we effected our purpose in two light whale-boats,
which could be hauled up directly they touched the beach. Nearly
all the population of a thriving village, called Constitucion, came
down to meet us (on the 21st), and assist in hauling our boats up
the steep though yielding sand, where, for our comfort, they told
us a whole boat’s crew had been drowned, not long previously, in
attempting to land. From a height overlooking the river, village,
and neighbourhood, we enjoyed a very pleasing view, so long as
we turned away from the bar of the river, and the surf. A rich
country and a fine river are pleasing things at all times, but the
difficult approach to Constitucion mars half its beauty. Only the
smallest craft can cross the bar; it is dangerous for boats to land
on the outer beach: and difficult for them to profit by the few
opportunities which occur of passing the bar without risk.
Notwithstanding these local disadvantages, Constitucion may thrive
wonderfully hereafter, by the help of small steamers, for she has a
most productive country around her, abounding in internal as well as
external wealth, and a navigable river at command. Besides this, in
1805, a very practicable passage was discovered through the Andes,
about seventy leagues south of Mendoza, not far from the latitude
of the River Maule, almost entirely level, and fit for waggons--the
only pass of such a description between the isthmus of Darien and
Patagonia.
From the Maule we sailed along the coast northward; limited time,
and work in prospect urging us to hasten more than could have been
wished. The shoal, or rather rocks of Topocalma, or Rapel, were
examined; some coves looked at, fit only for coasting launches,
and the line of this bold, but uninteresting coast tolerably well
determined. Before sunrise, on the 22d, we had a splendid view of
the Andes--their range or cordillera being unclouded, and distinctly
visible from south-east almost to north. The sharp summit of
Aconcagua, 23,000 feet above the sea level, towered high over any
other.
At noon, on the 23d, we hove-to off Valparaiso, and sent boats
ashore. Mr. Darwin came on board, and among other pieces of good
news, told me of my promotion. I asked about Mr. Stokes and Lieut.
Wickham, especially the former; but nothing had been heard of their
exertions having obtained any satisfactory notice at head-quarters,
which much diminished the gratification I might otherwise have felt
on my own account. Mr. Darwin returned to the shore, intending
to travel overland, to meet us at Coquimbo, his very successful
excursion across the Andes having encouraged him to make another long
journey northward.
On the 25th, we anchored in Horcon Bay, a place (by some curious
accident) entirely left out of all former charts, although there is
good anchorage, and a fishing village not far from a populous small
place called Puchancavi. From this station we sailed to Papudo, a
small port rising into repute, on account of copper-mines in its
neighbourhood. It is well marked by a high-peaked hill, called
Gobernador. Next to Papudo lies Ligua, a place where boats only can
go; farther north, or ‘down the coast’ (as they say in Chile and
Peru), is Pichidanque, an excellent cove, rather than port, now much
used for shipping copper, and formerly a smuggling place; rendered
more notorious by the murder of Burcher, the master of an English
smuggling vessel called the Scorpion, who was enticed ashore and
assassinated, after which his ship was seized and plundered. This
took place in the present century; and an individual, who was said to
have taken an active part in the tragedy, was living at Quillota, in
1835.
Close to Pichidanque is a high pointed hill, called ‘Silla’ (from its
saddle shape), seeing which distinctly from Valparaiso, is said to be
a sign of an approaching northerly wind.
I landed at Conchali after dark on the 30th, leaving the Beagle under
sail in the offing. My reception was very hospitable; but the people
made sure I was a smuggler; and some of the principal inhabitants
rode with me several miles next morning to the place where my boat
was hauled ashore, thinking all the time that I was only waiting
for a favourable opportunity to tell them my secret, and make
advantageous terms. All this coast, except a few corners, is bold and
high, barren and uninteresting; though picturesque in outline.
May 2d. Another smuggling cove, called Quilimari, was examined by me.
There is but doubtful landing, and no shelter for a vessel; balsas,
however, might do a good deal of work for such a character as I was
taken for at Conchali.
On the 4th, having hastily reconnoitred the coast nearly as far as
Coquimbo, we ran into Herradura Cove, and moored ship securely.
It was my intention to refit there thoroughly, and prepare the
Beagle for receiving a large supply of stores and provisions at
Valparaiso, which would enable her to run down the coast to the
Galapagos, and thence cross the Pacific to Sydney in Australia. In
Herradura she lay quietly close to the land until the 6th of June:
and all her crew were encamped on shore near the ship, while she
was thoroughly cleared out, re-stowed, and painted. At Coquimbo (or
Serena) we always met with a hearty welcome whenever duty required
that we should go there, or when we went for our own amusement. The
Yntendente, Yrrisarte, the kind-hearted Mr. Edwards and his family,
and others, will not easily be forgotten by the Beagle’s officers.
As another real benefactor to the public service, I may be allowed to
mention Don Francisco Vascuñan, who lent me a vessel of thirty-five
tons, called the Constitucion, to be employed in forwarding the
survey. This craft was built in the River Maule, and bore a very
high character as a sea boat. Lieutenant Sulivan, Mr. King, Mr.
Stewart, and Mr. Forsyth volunteered to go in her; so giving them
a boat’s crew, a small boat, a native pilot with his balsa, and as
good an outfit as my means would allow, I despatched this new tender
to examine a portion of coast near Coquimbo, which the Beagle had
not seen sufficiently, and directed Lieut. Sulivan, if he found the
vessel efficient, to continue afterwards surveying along the coast of
Chile, as far as Paposo, whence he was to repair to Callao.[13]
On the 6th of June, the Beagle left Herradura, and sailed towards
Valparaiso. Anxious, however, to communicate with Don Diego
Portales,[14] who was staying at his country-house, near Papudo, I
touched there in my way; arrived at Valparaiso on the 14th of June,
and immediately began the arrangements necessary for our preparations
to quit Chile. The liberal assistance rendered by Don Francisco
Vascuñan, in lending me his own vessel, without any kind of agreement
or remuneration whatever, had enabled me to look forward to adding
much of the coast of Chile to our gleanings in hydrography; for I
well knew that Lieutenant Sulivan would not only make despatch, but
extremely correct work.
Here I may remark, that if little is said henceforth about places so
well known as the coasts of Chile, Peru, and other countries often
described, it is because I feel bound to avoid mere repetition as far
as possible, and because the limits of my narrative are fixed. For
the present, leaving the Beagle to get her stores and provisions on
board, I must turn to another scene.
16th June. By the post which arrived from Santiago this morning, an
English merchant received a laconic account of the total loss of
his Majesty’s ship Challenger. This report spread as quickly as bad
tidings are wont to do: but no official information arrived during
that day, or the ensuing night. Recollecting that a Swedish ship
had come lately into Valparaiso, whose officers had seen what they
described as “an American brig” cast away near Mocha; I found out
the ship and questioned the master and mates. They had arrived at
Valparaiso on the 25th of May, and all agreed in stating that on the
20th of that month, they saw a large vessel ashore on the coast of
the mainland, to the northward and eastward of Mocha. They saw her at
daylight, but as they had light airs of wind and a very heavy swell
until three in the afternoon, to save themselves from danger they
were obliged to make all sail away from the land, and lost sight of
the wreck.
The vessel looked large, with fore and main masts standing, and
top-gallant masts an end until eight o’clock, when the fore-topmast
went over the side, or was struck: her fore-topsail yard remained
across; no main-top-gallant yard was seen; the main-top-gallant mast
was standing all day, and there was a large ensign at the mast-head:
white and red were seen, therefore it was thought to be American.
Her bow was to seaward, as if she had anchored; her sails were loose
all day; people were seen on the after part of what appeared to be a
roundhouse painted green. Bulwarks very high--ports very large--no
boats on deck or at the quarters--no guns on upper deck. Looking
at her end on, with the masts nearly in a line--all her upper deck
could be seen, though very indistinctly, owing to hazy weather, the
additional haze caused by spray thrown up from a furious surf, and
their own distance from the wreck; which was never less than four
miles.
The log of the Swedish ship was produced, which exactly corroborated
their statement. The master said he could not lower a boat, so great
was the swell; and during five hours of almost calm, he was drifting
helplessly towards the wreck, and expecting to share her fate. The
two masts and red and white ensign, caused them to consider her an
American brig, and as such she was reported to the consul for the
United States.
A few of the preceding data convinced me they had seen the poor
Challenger, but I was more strongly assured of the fact by pointing
to the Conway, then at anchor near us, and asking whether she was
like that ship--and near her size? Yes, sir, they replied. The green
roundhouse abaft, seemed to have been a deception caused by looking
at the curved green taff-rail of the Challenger. I concluded that the
mizen-mast had been cut or carried away; perhaps used as a raft: that
the boats had been lowered, and that the ensign was St. George’s,
(Sir G. E. Hamond’s flag being white at the mizen) but did not fly
out, as there was no wind. The quarter-deck guns were close to the
side, or perhaps below. Such were my thoughts, but other persons were
of a totally different opinion. I was astonished that the Commodore
did not hear officially from Santiago--particularly as the merchant’s
private notice was received through our Consul-general.
17th. At the Post-office I obtained a large packet, directed to our
vice-consul, the moment the post-master opened the mail bag; and
hastening to the consul’s office, I was surprised to find it shut,
and to hear that no one would be there for an hour or two. Such
apathy--upon such an occasion! Not choosing to break the seals,
though I saw by the direction what were the contents (Despatches
by Challenger), I went in search of the proper person to open the
packet: took the Commodore’s letters, and hastened with them to the
Blonde. Every doubt was then ended. The Challenger was lost on the
night of the 19th of May, at the spot described by the Swede: but
all her crew were saved except two; and on the 26th of that month,
Captain Seymour, the officers and men were encamped near the wreck,
at a place called Molguilla. The Blonde prepared for sea: an offer
of such assistance as I could render was accepted by the commodore;
and, having arranged the Beagle’s affairs, as far as then necessary,
I went on board the Blonde, taking with me Mr. Usborne, J. Bennett,
and a whale-boat. Lieut. Wickham was to forward the Beagle’s duty
during my absence, and take her to Copiapó, Iquique, and Callao,
before I should rejoin her.
18th. Weighed at three in the morning and cleared the port before
daybreak. A northerly, freshening wind favoured us much when in the
offing.
21st. Anchored in the bay of Concepcion, off Talcahuano, at noon.
As soon as I could get a boat I landed, and hastened to obtain
information, horses, and a guide, as the commodore wished me to go to
Captain Seymour, and concert measures for removing the crew and the
remaining stores.
The captain of the port told Commodore Mason that the part of the
coast on which the Challenger went shore, is quite inaccessible in
any weather, but that boats had entered the mouth of the river Leübu,
near Molguilla.
Lieutenant Collins (of the Challenger) had been at Talcahuano, trying
to procure a vessel, in which the shipwrecked crew might embark by
means of boats, at the Leübu, but not succeeding he had returned to
his shipmates; whom he expected to find at the mouth of the river.
It was said that a large body of Indians was in motion towards them,
that the crew were short of provisions, and that they were becoming
sickly. Assisted by the governor of Talcahuano, horses and a native
guide were soon obtained; but I wanted a more energetic assistant,
and engaged a Hanoverian who was used to the half Indian natives of
the frontier, and well known among them. This man was Vogelborg, or
Vergara, already mentioned. With orders and letters from Commodore
Mason, accompanied by Vogelborg and H. Fuller, and provided with five
horses, I left Talcahuano the same evening.
Being personally acquainted with the Yntendente, and his second
in command, I hastened immediately to their houses at Concepcion,
wishing to get an order to pass the Bio Bio River that night, and
to procure a circular letter to the local authorities. Not a minute
was lost by either of those zealous officers in attending to and
complying with my requests. Alemparte left his dinner to write a
circular letter, in his own hand; and neither he nor Colonel Boza
would return to their respective parties, until they had ascertained
that I was properly provided with horses and a guide, and that I
required no further assistance.
Although orders were issued and the ferry-boat at her station, no
crew were to be found, and only those men who belonged to the boat
knew how to cross over safely. Vexatious as the delay seemed, I was
afterwards glad of it; for judging by the work in day-light, I doubt
our having ever reached the opposite bank with our horses, in a dark
night.
While talking to Colonel Boza I remarked a watchful, wild-looking,
young Indian, in a Chilian half-uniform, standing in the house.
Something unusual in his manner attracted my notice though hurried,
and I have since regretted losing that opportunity of acquainting
myself with the son of Colipi, a famous cacique, who is the
principal, and a very powerful leader of the northern Araucanians,
though at present a friend to the Chilians. Colipi is a very tall and
unusually strong man; his onset and his yell are talked of with a
shudder, by those who have suffered from Indian hostility. Educating
his son at Concepcion is one of the methods used to conciliate the
‘Barbaro.’
22d. Before the dawn of day we were looking for the water-men;
and, as the sun rose, succeeded in getting their boat, or rather
flat-bottomed barge, into motion. We rode into the river, about two
hundred yards, until we reached the barge, then lying close to an
overflowed bank. By some persuasion of voice, whip, and spur, the
horses were made to leap out of the water, over the gunwale and
into the boat. They certainly showed more sense than horses usually
have, in understanding so readily how to behave; but whether their
owners showed more than asses, in having so clumsy a ferry-boat,
may be doubted. In leaping in the horses nearly knocked down, or
trod upon, those who were dismounted; and when leaping out again,
they made such a splashing of the water in the leaky ferry-barge as
effectually washed our faces. The river is wide, deep, and rapid;
and there are many sand-banks. The boatmen use oars as well as
long poles; but are slow and awkward to a degree I could scarcely
have believed, had I not witnessed their progress. The breadth at
the ferry is about a quarter of a mile, when the river is low, but
upwards of half a mile when flooded, as at this time. The south bank
is steep; and from San Pedro, a little village at the ferry, the land
rises in a south-east direction, towards a lofty range of hills;
but towards the south-west, it is low, level, and firm. Across this
excellent galloping ground we tried our horses, and made the miles
seem short, till we reached a low range of hills over Point Coronel.
There, dismounting, we used our own legs until the hills were passed,
and before us lay two long sandy beaches, called ‘Playa Negra,’ and
‘Playa Blanca.’
In our gallop we passed the house of Don Juan de Dios Rivera,[15]
whose estate on the south side of the Bio Bio is mentioned by
Captain Hall as an instance of the progressive tranquillization of
the Indians. Several large barn-like buildings spread over about
two acres of ground, enclosed by a high fence of rough posts and
rails, showed an eye accustomed to the country, that the proprietor
held in his own hands a large estate: but that collection of
thatched irregular roofs, and the utter absence of any thing like
outward neatness or regularity, brought to my mind a very neglected
rick-yard, near which not even a cottage appears.
Yet this was the house of a man of large property; and not by any
means a bad one, compared with others in that country. Many reasons
might be adduced to explain why Chilian gentlemen are reluctant
to expend either time, trouble, or money in building good houses.
Earthquakes are very frequent; property is yet insecure; and the
country has been occupied, but so lately that there has not been any
leisure time in which to think of more than the first necessaries of
life. Noble trees surround this ‘casa de hacienda.’[16] No underwood
impedes your riding at a rapid pace in any direction: and beyond the
woody spaces, extensive plains stretch towards the sea and to the
bank of the river. These plains are intersected by numerous streams,
and adorned with irregular clumps or thickets of trees: smaller
indeed than those which shade the ‘casa de hacienda,’ but of a size
sufficient to shelter cattle.
This estate, which is not considered a large one in that country,
comprises, besides many square leagues of wild hilly country, more
than one hundred square miles of excellent land, well watered,
abundantly wooded, and most pleasantly as well as conveniently
situated. The owner is said to be a most worthy man, and numerous
instances of his active goodness as well as excellent disposition,
have been related to me at different times; one of which I must stop
to relate.
My attendant, Vogelborg, passed near the door of Don Juan de Dios
Rivera, while executing a commission entrusted to his most speedy
despatch. Stopping a moment to ask the way, Don Juan remarked that he
looked ill, and had better rest. Vogelborg thanked him, but explained
the necessity of hastening onwards: in truth he was ill and very
tired, though anxious to proceed. Don Juan then suggested the quicker
method of forwarding the letters, entrusted to Vogelborg, by his own
confidential servant, and forthwith despatched him upon one of his
own horses, desiring Vogelborg to take possession of an excellent
bed; where he remained two days under the kind care of Don Juan de
Dios and his wife, who till that time, had never seen him.
Abreast of Negra Beach is an anchorage, sheltered from the north and
north-west winds by Point Coronel, but exposed to the southerly and
west winds. Here, as well as in coves further south, much smuggling
was carried on in the time of the Spaniards.
Leaving the sea-shore, and some slippery rocky places over which we
were obliged to lead our horses, we ascended the heights of Colcura.
For our reward, after a muddy scramble up to the top of a steep hill,
we looked down upon a fine though but partially wooded country,
forming an agreeable succession of valleys and high grounds; while to
seaward there was an extensive view of the coast, with the island of
Santa Maria in the distance.
Perched on a height overlooking the sea, and directly above a very
snug little anchorage, is the hamlet called Colcura; and thither
we hastened, inattentive to the complaints of our guide (who was
likewise guardian of the horses), and trusting to Vogelborg’s
recollection of the road. Riding into a sort of field entrenchment
at the top of Colcura hill, we were accosted by a sly-looking,
sharp-visaged character, whose party-coloured jacket appeared to
show that its owner held some office of a military nature, but
whether that of ‘cabo,’[17] or a higher, I could not determine until
I heard him say he could give us a good meal, and that he had three
fine horses near the house; when at once styling him ‘gobernador’
I rebuked myself for having thought ill of his physiognomy, and
proceeded to unsaddle. Disappointed, however, by a scanty bad meal,
we thought to regain our tempers upon the backs of our host’s horses;
but not an animal had he sent for; nor, to our further vexation,
could any inducement tempt him to lend one of those fine horses,
which, he still said, were close by. The Indians, he declared, were
expected daily; he knew not the moment he might have to fly for his
life; on no condition would he lend a horse: no, not if a fleet of
ships were wrecked, and I were to offer him an ounce of gold for each
mile that his horse should carry me.
Every Chilian residing on the frontier endeavours to keep by him a
good horse, on which to escape, in case of a sudden attack of the
Indians; for, as they never give quarter, and approach at a gallop,
it is highly necessary to be always prepared. Those who can afford to
do so, keep horses solely for the purpose of escape, which are the
finest and the swiftest they can procure. I remember hearing, that
when General Rosas was carrying on a war of extermination against
the Pampa and Patagonian Indians, on the banks of the rivers Colorado
and Negro, he had with him horses so superior, that it was said he
could always ensure escape, if by chance he should be pursued: and
one of them was invariably led about, saddled and bridled, near his
tent.
Saddling our own steeds, and quitting the thin-faced dispenser of
tough hens and sour apples, we set off at a gallop, leaving the lazy
guide whom we brought from Talcahuano, to return there with the two
worst animals (it was fortunate indeed we had brought with us a spare
one), and in two hours we reached the foot of Villagran; that hill so
famed in Araucanian story.
Being a natural barrier, it was a spot often chosen by the
Araucanians, at which either to lie in ambush for the Spaniards, or
openly oppose them. In one battle, the brave Villagran, after whom
this ridge of hills is named, and a small Spanish force, opposed
a multitude of Indians who had hemmed them in on every side. The
only opening by which Villagran could escape, was stopped up with a
barrier of branches and fallen trees, behind which the Indians stood
discharging arrows and slinging stones. Ercilla gives an animated
description of this scene; but as his book is scarce, I will attempt
a free translation of that passage, lame as it must necessarily be.
---- ---- the veteran Villagran,
Heedless of any kind of death,
Hazarded all upon a cast.
He rode a stately powerful horse,
Purest of Spanish blood--
Strength and activity were well combined
In that courageous steed--
Swift and high-spirited, he yet obeyed
The slightest touch of finger on the rein.
The danger reached--instant as thought--
The warrior’s spurs excite the noble brute--
He dashes on--and down the barrier goes.
A deafening crash and dire dismay
Followed, as onward tore their way
Those few determined men.
The gallant steed unhurt appeared,
Strove foremost in the fight, and feared
Only to be the last!
ERCILLA. Canto VI.
We ascended the heights by winding narrow paths, up which our horses
were led, in order to spare them as much as possible, and met a small
party of Chilians, on their way from the wreck of the Challenger
towards Concepcion, from whom we heard that the wreck had been
abandoned, and that the officers and crew were entrenched in a secure
position, on the height of ‘Tucapel Viejo,’ close to the mouth of the
river Leübu. We were also told that the Indians increased in number
daily, and that great fears of their hostility were entertained.
From the summit of Villagran we had an extensive view, reaching from
Tumbes Heights, at the west side of the Bay of Concepcion, to Cape
Rumena. The low island of Santa Maria, with its sandy spit, shaped
like an arm, seemed to be within a few miles of us, though distant
several leagues. I could trace the long, low, and almost straight
beach of Laraquete till ended by the white cliffs of Tubul: I could
distinguish the height immortalized by Colocolo’s name, and under it
smoke arising from the classical Arauco. Southward, a large extent of
fertile, level, and rather woody plains reached to distant ranges of
hills, which showed only a faint blue outline. Time allowed no delay,
but with a hasty glance, as we mounted our horses and cantered along
the summit, I saw a schooner[18] in the distance, off the Paps of Bio
Bio, working her way to the southward.
Descending; the hill, we reached ‘Chivilingo,’ a village near a small
river which runs through a ‘hacienda’ belonging to the ‘Santa Maria’
family. We called at the door of their large, barn-like dwelling, to
ask if horses could be spared. The mistress of the house happened to
be at home, having lately arrived from Concepcion; and directly she
heard my story she ordered every horse to be put in requisition; but,
unfortunately, two only were within reach, one of which was lame. All
the others had been sent to grass at a distance. After acknowledging
her kindness, and paying her ‘mayor domo’ for the hire of the horse,
we pushed on with that one and two of the least jaded of our own
animals.
Between Chivilingo and the rivulet called Laraquete is a hill,
unimportant at present, though it may hereafter become of
consequence, as it contains coal. Some that I carried away with me
was thought to be almost equal to cannel coal, which it very much
resembled. The little river Laraquete, which will admit a large boat
at high water, runs at the foot of the hill, and there is no surf
where it enters the sea. Very glad I was then to see nothing like a
hill between us and Arauco. We urged our horses along the dead level,
and reached a pass of the Carampangue river as the sun was sinking
below the horizon. From his sickly appearance and the black gathering
clouds, I thought we should not be long without heavy rain, and that
the sooner we could house ourselves the better. The Carampangue is
shallow, except in the middle, but wide. Men and animals are carried
over it on a ‘balsa,’ made of several logs of light wood fastened
together, and pushed or poled across with their burdens by one man.
These contrivances are very convenient where the water is shallow
near the bank, and where the bank itself is low: for a horse can walk
upon them from the shore without difficulty, or any scrambling; and
as soon as they ground on the opposite side, it is equally easy to
disembark. Where wood is not plentiful, balsas are made of rushes
tied together in bundles; or of hides sewn up and inflated, or made
into a rough kind of coracle.
The last few miles had been slowly accomplished by dint of whip and
spur; but from the river to Arauco was a long league over unknown
ground, in the dark, and while rain fell fast. Heavily we toiled
along, uncertain of our way, and expecting each minute to be bogged;
our horses, however, improved as we neared their anticipated resting
place, and almost tried to canter as lights appeared twinkling within
an open gateway in the low wall of Arauco.[19] We asked for the house
of the ‘comandante,’ and were directed to a rancho rather higher
and larger than the rest. Without a question we were received, and
told to make the house our own. That we were wet and tired, was a
sufficient introduction to the hospitable Chilian.
Before thinking of present comfort, it was necessary to secure horses
for the next day’s journey, and dispose of our own tired animals;
but money and the willing assistance of the comandante (Colonel
Ger^o. J. Valenzuela), soon ensured us both horses and a guide. In
the colonel’s house, a barn-like building, entirely of wood, and
divided into three parts by low partitions, I was surprised to see
an arm-chair of European make, which in no way corresponded to the
rest of the furniture. Some large shells, not found in these seas,
also caught my eye, and tempted me to ask their history. They had
been brought only the previous day from the wreck of the Challenger,
and were given by Captain Seymour to Don Geronimo, who had himself
but just returned from assisting the shipwrecked party. His account
and the chances of an attack being made by the Indians, increased our
anxiety to proceed; it would, however, have been worse than useless
to attempt finding our way in a dark night, while it was raining fast
and blowing very hard; but at daybreak in the morning we saddled,
and soon afterwards were splashing along the low flat tract of land
extending from Arauco westward towards Tubul. Heavy rain during the
night had almost inundated the low country, and to our discomfort
appeared likely to continue during the day. In half an hour after
starting we were soaked with mud and water; but being well warmed by
galloping, we felt indifferent to the rain, and to a heavy gale of
wind that was blowing.
Arauco, famous in Spanish song and history, is simply a small
collection of huts, covering a space of about two acres, and scarcely
defended from an enemy by a low wall or mound of earth. It stands
upon a flat piece of ground, at the foot of the Colocolo Heights, a
range of steep, though low hills, rising about six hundred feet above
the sea.
In the sixteenth century, Arauco was surrounded by a fosse, a strong
palisade, and a substantial wall, whose only opening was secured
by a gate and drawbridge. Now the ditch, dug by the old Spaniards,
is filled up, and the remains of their drawbridge have disappeared,
having been used probably as fuel. This was the first place assaulted
by the Indians, after their grand union against the Spaniards, at the
end of the sixteenth century. To relate even a part of the history of
those times would be digressing too much; but an anecdote of Colocolo
and the great Caupolican may shorten our journey, and divert us for a
time from mud, and rain, and wind.
Ashamed at having given way to men, at first imagined to be gods,
and indignant at the outrages and oppressions of their invaders,
a general gathering of the Indian tribes took place near Arauco.
Ercilla names sixteen caciques of renown, besides others of inferior
fame, who assembled with their followers. At the feast which followed
their first consultation, great disputes arose among the rival
caciques. A general was to be chosen, and each esteemed himself
worthy of that high distinction. Insulting words induced an appeal to
arms, and desperate strife was about to commence, when Colocolo, the
oldest and most respected chief, advancing hastily,[20] with haughty
strides, exclaimed:--
“What madness is exciting you, Caciques!
Thus eagerly to rush into a war
Against the very sources of our strength--
To tear each other’s entrails out, as beasts,
And utterly forget the tyrant foe?
Turn your arms and angry blows
Against those authors of your slavery,
Whose shameful inroads on our fathers’ land
Heap infamy upon Arauco!
Arauco’s sons yourselves display--
And cast their galling yoke away.
Husband every drop of blood,
To mingle with a Spanish flood!”
Having gained attention and temporary silence, the Araucanian Nestor
continued an eloquent address to the angry chiefs, in which, after
expostulating with them upon their ruinous rivalry; he exhorted them
to choose a leader by some trial of ability, which should be publicly
made; and suggested that the man who could bear a heavy weight
for the longest time must be the fittest to endure the burthen of
governing.
The caciques agreed to his proposal, and prepared a large trunk of a
tree for this great trial of strength. Colocolo well knew that the
qualifications of an Indian general were not bodily strength and
activity, unless accompanied by qualities of mind proportionably
superior; but it happened that Caupolican exceeded all his countrymen
in mental, and all but Lincoya in bodily qualifications. Accident had
impeded his attendance at the ‘gathering,’ and the object of Colocolo
in proposing so tedious and otherwise absurd a trial was to gain time
for Caupolican’s arrival.
Fourteen chiefs successively bore the ponderous tree upon their
shoulders. No one gave up the trial, until he had endured more than
four hours’ oppression; some even sustained the burthen six, eight,
or ten hours; and one hardy mountaineer carried the tree for fifteen.
But the famed Lincoya claimed the prize; confiding in his Herculean
strength, he had allowed all others to precede him in the trial.
When at last he threw the mantle from his Atlas shoulders, he took
the tree from the ground as if it had been a stick; ran, jumped,
and danced with it on his back, seeming to feel no weight; and the
multitude, astonished, exclaimed, ‘Lincoya shall be general! the rest
are infants in comparison!’ but the wise Colocolo insisted upon the
completion of the trial, knowing that Caupolican would soon arrive,
and that Lincoya’s antics would exhaust even his great strength, and
make it possible for an inferior to carry the tree longer. The crafty
veteran had himself excited Lincoya to the unnecessary exertions
which he knew would undermine him. From sunrise, until noon of the
following day, full thirty hours, did the gigantic Lincoya sustain
his immense load. While the air yet resounded to the shouts of
‘Lincoya,’ Caupolican arrived, and demanded to try his strength; but
Colocolo interposed, saying that Caupolican had arrived from a great
distance, and ought to rest. Until the next morning, therefore, the
trial was postponed.
During the night, great excitement animated the vast multitude. The
strength and ability of Caupolican were well known; even Lincoya
doubted the result; he had deemed his only rival far off; and the
antics in which he had indulged had prematurely exhausted his
strength. At daybreak the tribes again assembled, and as the sun
rose, Caupolican lifted the tree, and quietly poised it upon his
shoulder. His manner, and the ease with which he placed his burthen,
excited the surprise and admiration of all, except Lincoya, whose
spirits sunk as he watched the cautiously guarded manner and easy
movements of his rival.
During that day and the following night, lighted by the full moon;
during the whole of the next day, and throughout the second night,
did Caupolican sustain that overpowering weight which men of common
strength could only bear during a very few hours: and when the
sun rose on the third morning, the still untired chief lifted the
tree above his head, and dashed it to the ground, with an effort
which showed that his powers were far from being exhausted. He
was unanimously chosen general, amidst extraordinary shouting and
applause: and no sooner had the other caciques acknowledged his
authority, than he began to take measures for acting immediately
against the Spaniards.
Arauco, their nearest strong hold, was to be attacked. Eighty chosen
men approached, disguised as the serving Indians, who supplied the
Spanish soldiers with firewood, and forage for their horses. Each
man, with his load of fuel or grass, in which his arms were hidden,
advanced unsuspected to the fort, when, by preconcerted signal, they
threw down their loads and attacked the unprepared Spaniards. This
assault was the signal for other Indians to rush towards the fort;
but the Spaniards, although surprised, made so good a defence, that
almost all the eighty chosen men were killed, and no others could
gain admittance. The whole Indian multitude then surrounded Arauco;
and the Spaniards, seeing that they must be overpowered if they
remained, opened the gate in the dead of the night and escaped. Thus
began this famed insurrection, which caused the destruction of seven
towns, and drove every Spaniard from Araucania.
Leaving the low land near the sea, we ascended sloping hills, and
found ourselves in a beautiful country. Though I did not see it
distinctly until my return, I will endeavour to describe it in this
place:--the outer range of hills, near the sea, is a succession of
downs, free from wood, except here and there in the valleys, and
every where covered with short sweet grass:--there is no sandy or
barren rocky land. Numbers of fine cattle were seen grazing in the
neighbourhood, but very few sheep. In-shore of the downs is a very
luxuriant country: gradually rising hills, every where accessible;
extensive valleys, woods of fine timber trees, very little encumbered
with underwood; spaces of clear grass-land, like fields; beautiful
lakes, and numerous streams of excellent water, together with a rich
soil clothed with sweet grass, disposed me to think this the finest
country I had ever seen.
Generally speaking, the soil is clayey; but there is every where a
layer of vegetable mould upon the surface; which indicates that the
country was covered with wood until the Indians partially cleared
it by burning. While they were so numerous as they are said to have
been in the sixteenth century, large tracts of ground must have been
cultivated by them, or cleared for their sheep. In riding across this
now unemployed land, regretting at every mile that it should be so
neglected, fine bullocks often crossed our path; or wild-looking,
but well-conditioned troops of horses. These animals must be very
nearly wild: for restrained by no fences, looked after by nobody,
they are free to roam and feed where they please. Once only in a
year they are driven together, if they can be found, to be counted,
marked, or killed. Here and there a stray cottage, or rather hut,
was seen, with a high thatched roof, like those of Chilóe. But for
these cottages, and a field or two near them, this excellent country
would have appeared to be quite deserted by the human race, though
possessing every desirable quality. We passed over no hills of any
consequence as to height, though generally we were ascending or
descending. An in-shore circuit was taken, to avoid crossing three
rivers, which, near the sea, are difficult to pass; and having lost
our way (notwithstanding the alleged excellence of our guide), a
native, almost Indian, was easily prevailed upon to run by the side
of our horses until he put us into the right track. Before running
through the bushes, he carefully tucked up his loose trousers as high
as possible; thinking, I suppose, that his skin was less likely to be
torn than the trousers; and thus bare-footed and bare-legged he ran
before us for several miles with the greatest ease. At the cottage
from which he came, a very good horse, in excellent condition, and
well cleaned, was standing in a yard. I asked the owner to let me
hire or buy him, but he would consent to neither; alleging that,
in the Indian country, his life depended upon having a good horse
close at hand. Three thousand Indians had assembled, he told me,
and were expected to make an attack upon the Chilian frontier; but
on what particular part was quite uncertain. They had heard of the
wreck, and were actually going to the place to plunder the crew,
when accidentally met and driven back by Colipi, with his friendly
tribe. Dogs seem to be kept at these cottages for the same purpose as
those at the ‘ranchos,’ in the Pampas, namely, to give warning of the
approach of enemies. Small parties of Indians seldom or ever attack a
house without reconnoitring carefully; and this they cannot effect if
there are many dogs about.
After our running guide had left us, though put into the right track,
we were soon at a loss again; so numerous were the tracks of horses
and cattle in this rich pasture land. The professed guide whom we
had brought from Arauco, was more useful in recovering half-tired
horses, than from knowing the way: no sooner did he get upon a horse,
which one of my party could not persuade to go out of a walk, than he
started off at full gallop, exulting in his skill. Perhaps his secret
lay in a sharp pair of iron spurs: for the thick skin and coarse
hair of horses, so roughly kept as these, is proof against ordinary
spurs, used with humanity.
Going very much by chance, often losing our way, and often taking a
cast round to look for the most frequented track, we at last arrived
at Quiapo, a hamlet consisting of five huts only, just in sight of
one another on neighbouring hills. To which of them the name belongs,
I know not, as ‘Todo es Quiapo,’ was all the answer I could get from
my guide.
Riding up to the nearest hut, we tempted a young man who occupied it,
to sally forth in the rain in search of fresh horses. This exertion
was caused by the sure stimulant--money. We might have talked of
the wreck, and the Indians, until that day month, without exciting
our acquaintance to move; but the touch of dollars at once overcame
the apathy with which he listened to our first request for food and
horses. His wife told us to kill a fowl, if we could, for there was
nothing else to be had; so forth we sallied, and as each understood
that the permission applied to himself, great was the confusion
among the poultry. To the dismay of our hostess, we soon reappeared,
each with a fowl; but a certain silver talisman quickly hushed her
scolding, and set her cooking. Meanwhile the rancho was ornamented
with our wet clothes hanging about it to be dried; but rain came
through the roof in so many places that our trouble was useless.
Dripping wet, having been soaked since the morning, and of course
cold, we could not go near the fire, because of the smoke; so with
a long pole we poked a hole through the thatch, which let the smoke
out, and then closing round the fire, we surprised the good woman by
our attack upon her half-roasted fowls.
All these huts are much alike. Under one thatched roof, there is
a place where all the family (including the dogs, cats, and pigs)
eat, while sitting or lying round the fire, which is on the ground
in the middle; and there is a kind of ‘dais,’[21] where the same
party afterwards seek that sound sleep from which none of the insect
tribe appear to awake them, however much they may plague others.
Sometimes there is a sort of bedstead, and a slight partition for the
older people; but the others take their rest upon the raised part of
the floor, wrapped in sheep-skins, or goat-skins, and rough woollen
clothes. A large heap of potatoes occupies one corner of the hut, and
another is filled by a granary, curiously contrived with stakes about
six feet in length, driven into the ground in a circle of perhaps
six feet diameter. Rough wicker-work unites the stakes, and forms
a bottom about half a foot from the ground. Straw is then inserted
into the wattled-work, until there is enough to prevent any corn from
falling through. This large fixed basket is filled at harvest time,
and supplies the family during the whole year: neither rat or mouse
can get at it without making a rustling noise, which instantly alarms
each cat and dog.
Before our host returned with horses it was evening. He would
have detained us until the next morning, could his arguments have
availed, but finding that with or without him, on we were resolved
to go, he set out at a good pace towards Leübu. Less rain and wind
encouraged hopes of a fine night, so we trotted or galloped along
while day-light lasted, but as the night grew dark rain again poured
down: and, obliged then to go slowly, we followed one another as
close as possible, placing the guide in front with a white poncho.
While in the open country we got on pretty well, but, after two
hours easy work, we found that the track was taking us through thick
woods. My first intimation of the change was being nearly knocked
off my horse by the bough of a tree, so pitchy dark was the night;
and after this I kept my head on the horse’s neck, trusting to his
eyes entirely, for I could see nothing. That our guide could find
the way has been matter of astonishment to me ever since: he never
failed once. Some of the defiles through which he led were knee-deep
in clayey mud, so stiff that the horses could hardly move. Often we
were set fast in such places, obliged to get off, and feel for the
track,--knee-deep, and up to our elbows in mud,--for it was upon
hands and knees that we went, oftener than upon our legs. Our guide
knew we were in the right track, but each of us was obliged to seek
safe footing for himself and his horse, in the defiles among steep
ravines and streams, swelled by heavy rains. Passing these streams
was dangerous, and there only did the guide hang back. At one brook
which seemed by the noise, to be deep and large, he refused to cross,
saying his horse would not go on, and that we could not get over in
the dark. However, Vogelborg was not to be so stopped. Leaving his
own horse stuck fast in a slough, he scrambled through, hauling my
horse after him by the bridle. Holding by my horse’s long tail, and
driving him on, I scrambled after: Vogelborg then went back, and
with the guide brought the others over. In several places, while in
the ravines, I had recourse to the tail of the guide’s horse for my
support and dragged my own animal after me, for it was hopeless to
remain on his back, so often was he stuck fast or down in the mud.
The last man, Fuller, fared the worst, as he had no one behind him
to drive his horse on; and frequently we were obliged to stop and
holla to one another, to avoid parting company. At last we emerged
from the wood and from those horrible ravines. Before us we could
then see that there was space, nothing interfering between our eyes
and the clouds; but while under the trees and in the water courses,
utter blackness surrounded us to a degree I never witnessed in any
other place. Our eyes were not of the least use, for I could not even
see the white poncho of our guide, though close before me. Feeling
and hearing alone availed. Heavy rain during the whole time prevented
the mud from forming too thick a coat upon us. Another hour brought
our small party to an Indian settlement, near the river Leübu; and as
we rode by the huts, our guide talked to those within at the utmost
pitch of his voice, as if determined no one should be ignorant of
his adventure. Hearing their conversation carried on in the Indian
language, was rather an impressive novelty. We continued our route,
and at last reached the Leübu.
The north side of this river (on which we were), is low and sandy
near the sea, but the south side rises to a high, remarkable
headland, called the ‘Heights of old Tucapel,’--(‘Altos de Tucapel
viejo.’) The breadth of the river is about one hundred yards. Tucapel
was the name of one of the more powerful caciques who united under
Caupolican, to resist and expel the Spaniards. In his district and
near his usual residence, which bore the same name, the daring but
avaricious Valdivia was overwhelmed by numbers and taken prisoner,
though not until every one of his small party had desperately fought
and devotedly died for the cause which many among them considered
that of God and their king.
Religion had so much influence over the minds of the earlier
Spaniards, and was so warped and misinterpreted by the priests of
their day, that actions, in themselves most unjustifiable, found
defenders and active supporters among churchmen, and energetic
performers among those who trusted their consciences to other men’s
keeping. An enthusiastically religious feeling, strengthened them
to persevere under all trials and disappointments, and helps to
account for the wonderful energy and constancy, shown in discovering,
exploring and subduing the New World. This high sentiment of
religion, urging them to conquer in order to convert to Christianity,
and to honour God by serving their king, was an impelling motive in
the minds of the early adventurers, at least as strong as the desire
of riches. I here allude to those leaders who first opened the roads,
which crowds of inferior men afterwards followed. One proof of this
feeling is the fact, that the last of Valdivia’s faithful companions
who fell, was his chaplain, without whom, it appears, he did not even
go to battle.
Valdivia had set out in the morning with only fifty Spaniards,
besides a body of friendly Indians, intending to attack and disperse
the multitude of his opponents. As he approached Tucapel, some
fugitive friends[22] entreated him not to proceed, assuring him that
twenty thousand Indians were there who had sworn to take his life,
or sacrifice their own. Despising the natives and used to conquer,
Valdivia listened to no cautions. The three thousand Indians,
supposed to be friendly, accompanied him to the battle but turned
against him: and his own page, Lautaro, who there immortalized his
name among his countrymen, was the first to set the example and
proved himself the most daring in the fight. (It should be mentioned
that Lautaro’s servitude was compulsory, having been brought up
against his inclination, in the Spaniard’s house.)[23] Onward dashed
Valdivia, at the head of his small band, and was speedily surrounded
by a countless throng. Hemmed in on every side, and overpowered by
men who till then used to fly from a man in armour and mounted on a
horse, all that desperate brave men could do, was done: but their
horses tired, slaughter appeared to diminish neither the number nor
rage of their opponents, and one after another sunk to the ground.
Valdivia’s chaplain fell the last, except the general himself, who
fought like a lion at bay: till, seeing that he was alone, he turned
and fled. The goodness of his horse enabled him to escape for a
little while, but he was hunted by the swiftest and strongest, whose
speed exceeded that of a tiring horse. His steed failed, and he was
taken prisoner to be tortured and put to death, after suffering every
torment that savage ingenuity could devise. When he was at the stake,
the rage of the older Indians could not be repressed: and an aged
man named Leocato, who had suffered long and severely by Spanish
oppression, struck him on the head with his club, and at one blow
deprived him of life.
Although surrounded by a multitude, so resolute and energetic were
the companions of Valdivia, that they were actually gaining the day,
until Lautaro rallied the retreating Indians, and by his heroism
turned the tide of victory against the Spaniards. The natives’
superstitious awe of these superior men, once thought gods, added
to their being mounted on horseback and clad in armour, were such
immense advantages, that to oppose the progress of a few resolute
Spaniards even by the numbers of a multitude, was a daring effort.
In consequence of this and many subsequent acts of valour and
conduct, the young Lautaro became a most celebrated leader, and was
chosen by Caupolican as his lieutenant and successor.
But I must return to the banks of the Leübu, which we were
approaching as fast as our tired horses could drag their hoofs
through deep, loose sand, when a solitary light moving on the dark
side of the opposite high land, showed the place where our countrymen
were anxiously waiting for assistance: we had heard that their
encampment was under Tucapel Heights, and close to the river’s mouth.
As soon as we arrived at the water side, I hailed as loudly as I
could call, but no answer was returned. Again I hailed “Challenger’s
a-hoy,” and a faint ‘hallo’ repaid us for every difficulty. “Send a
boat!” I called. “Aye, aye!” echoed from the hills. Lights appeared
directly coming down the hill: a little boat came across the river,
and very soon we were embarked in the Challenger’s dinghy,[24] the
only boat saved. The master and one man were in her, from whom we
heard that all the party were well, and that they had not yet been
molested by natives.
Captain Seymour was at the landing place. Old friends, meeting under
such circumstances, can say but little. Hastening to the encampment,
where all had turned out to hear the welcome news of assistance being
at hand, we made their hearts rejoice by saying that the Blonde was
at Talcahuano, and coming to their relief. With the officers, I
found our excellent consul, Mr. Rouse.[25] At the first intimation
of the Challenger’s loss, he had hastened to the spot without an
hour’s delay; well aware how useful his influence and information
would prove, and supposing that the officers would not be conversant
in Araucanian habits and language, even if they should have made
a slight acquaintance with those of Chile. His assistance proved
to be of the utmost consequence, for not only did his explanations
intimidate and discourage open or disguised enemies, who were not
wanting, but his credit and influence procured daily supplies of
provisions: while to his address and good sense every one of the
shipwrecked crew was much indebted in many transactions.
Daylight found Seymour and myself still talking, though he had
given me his bed. Partly at that time, and partly in subsequent
conversations, he gave me the following account of the loss of the
Challenger; but without mentioning his own exertions or conduct,
which I heard of from his officers.
* * * * *
I will take this opportunity of mentioning that there is a large
fox, called ‘culpen,’ in the Araucanian country, which was
mentioned to me as being more like a wolf than a fox; but at that
time I paid very little attention to the subject. Stevenson says,
“the culpen is rather more foolish than daring, but not void of
the latter quality. It will advance within eight or ten paces
of a man, and after looking at him for some time, will retire
carelessly.” “Its colour is a dark reddish brown, with a long
straight tail covered with shaggy hair; its height is about two
feet.”--Stevenson’s South America, vol. i. p. 115. (Is not this
like the Falkland animal?)
* * * * *
(Note referred to in page 423.)
(_a_) Ulloa said that the word ‘cochayuyo’ meant ‘lake herb.’
His authority is too good to be lightly questioned, otherwise I
should have had no doubt that the word was derived from ‘cochun,’
‘salt,’ or ‘bitter,’ and ‘yu,’ a thread: as the plant grows with
long thread-like stalks, which taste salt, like most sea-weed:
and ‘lavquen’ is the word generally used for ‘lake,’ as well as
‘sea,’ rather than ‘cocha.’
FOOTNOTES:
[1] Natives of Concepcion: so called because they formerly lived at
Penco: before that city was overwhelmed in 1730.
[2] Close to the landing place at Concepcion is a rock that was
usually covered at high-water, previous to the earthquake (of 1835),
but which was two feet above the highest tides of the next few weeks.
In July, 1835, that rock was covered at ordinary high-water, as in
1834.
[3] ‘Està ahora el mar à su centro.’
[4] See note at end of chapter.
[5] Dec. 8, l. 6, c, 11.
[6] Frezier’s Voyage, p. 146.
[7] Hall’s Journal, vol. i. p. 303.
[8] Idem, p. 307.
[9] Stevenson’s South America, vol. i. p. 121.
[10] The Earl of Dundonald for instance.
[11] I do not mean merely wet, but well saturated and covered with
water till required for use.
[12] It has been coked, and found to answer well.
[13] Orders in Appendix.
[14] Don Diego Portales, one of the ablest men in South America, was
murdered, in 1837, by some of his ungrateful countrymen.
[15] Yntendente of Concepcion in 1821.
[16] Country-house upon the owner’s estate.
[17] Corporal.
[18] The Carmen, with Mr. Usborne on board--see page 456.
[19] It is a low wall, or rather mound of earth, enclosing a number
of ‘ranchos’ (cottages or huts).
[20] Ercilla, canto ii.
[21] Raised half a foot above the ground.
[22] Friendly Aborigines.
[23] Lautaro was the son of an Araucanian chieftain, who fell in
battle against the enemies of his race. Though brought up and
educated in the family of Valdivia, from a mere child, he had never
ceased to long for an opportunity of turning his forced acquirements
to the disadvantage of his instructors, and revenging the death of
his father.
[24] At midnight. The horses were sent back to the Indian huts, with
whose owners our guide held such noisy intercourse as we passed.
[25] H.B. Majesty’s consul at Concepcion.