CHAPTER I.

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Basic fractions are displayed as ½ ⅓ ¼ etc; other fractions are shown

in the form a/b, for example ²⁄₈ or ¹⁄₂₇th.

Footnote anchors are denoted by [number], and the footnotes have been

placed at the end of each chapter. Numbering is unique only within

each chapter.

Some minor changes to the text are noted at the end of the book.

[Illustration:

PART OF

TIERRA DEL FUEGO

from

H.M.S. Beagle

1834

Note. _Staton Land from H.M.S. Chanticleer and part of Strait of

Magalhaens from H.M.S. Adventure._

It is high water in the Strait of Le Maire at five but the

flood tide continues to run northward until about six P.M. on

the day of new moon. The flood tide is much stronger than the

Ebb along all this coast and it sets from the Westward, but

Northward of Staton Island and the Strait of Le Maire the flood

tide runs North-westward.

Although five and six are the average times the tides vary much

being sometimes nearly an hour earlier & sometimes as much

later on the day of full or new moon.

_Published according to Act of Parliament by Henry Colburn 1839._]

[Illustration:

CHILOE

_and Parts of the_

ADJACENT COASTS

_from_

H.M.S. BEAGLE

1835.

_Published according to Act of Parliament by Henry Colburn 1839._]

VOYAGES

OF THE

ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE.

VOLUME II.

[Illustration:

C. Martens. T. Landseer.

FUEGIAN.

(YAPOO TEKEENICA)

_AT PORTRAIT COVE_

Published by Henry Colburn, Great Marlborough Street, 1838.]

NARRATIVE

OF THE

SURVEYING VOYAGES

OF HIS MAJESTY’S SHIPS

ADVENTURE AND BEAGLE,

BETWEEN

THE YEARS 1826 AND 1836,

DESCRIBING THEIR

EXAMINATION OF THE SOUTHERN SHORES

OF

SOUTH AMERICA,

AND

THE BEAGLE’S CIRCUMNAVIGATION OF THE GLOBE.

IN THREE VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.

1839.

LONDON:

Printed by J. L. Cox and Sons, 75, Great Queen Street,

Lincoln’s-Inn Fields.

VOLUME II.

PROCEEDINGS

OF

THE SECOND EXPEDITION,

1831-1836,

UNDER THE COMMAND OF

CAPTAIN ROBERT FITZ-ROY, R.N.

CONTENTS.

VOLUME II.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

Explanation--Natives of Tierra del Fuego, or Fuegians--Passages

across the Equator (Atlantic)--Letters--Small-pox--Hospital

--Boat--Memory--Fuegians in London--At Walthamstow--At St.

James’s--Beagle recommissioned--Correspondence with Mr. Wilson

--Fuegians re-embark 1

CHAPTER II.

Hydrographer’s Opinion--Continuation of Survey--Chain of Meridian

Distances--Efficient Arrangements--Repair and raise Deck--Outfit

--Boats--Lightning-Conductors--Rudder--Stove--Windlass

--Chronometers--Mr. Darwin--Persons on board--Changes--List of

those who returned--Supplies--Admiralty Instructions--Memorandum

--Hydrographer’s Memorandum 17

CHAPTER III.

Ready for sea--Detained--Sail from England--Well provided--Bay of

Biscay--Compasses--Local attraction--Eight Stones--Madeira

--Deception--Squall--Teneriffe--Santa Cruz--Quarantine--Squalls

--Cape Verde Islands--Port Praya--Produce--Archilla--Bad season

--St. Paul Rocks--Cross Equator--Fernando de Noronha--Bahia

--Slavery--Abrolhos--Cape Frio 42

CHAPTER IV.

Loss of the Thetis--Causes of her wreck--Approach to Rio de Janeiro

--Owen Glendower--Disturbance in Rio Harbour--Observations

--Chronometers--Return to Bahia--Deaths--Macacu--Malaria--Return

to Rio de Janeiro--Meridian Distances--Regatta--Fuegians--Lightning

--Leave Rio--Equipment--Santa Martha--Weather--Santa Catharina

--Santos--River Plata--Pamperoes--Gales off Buenos Ayres--Monte

Video--Point Piedras--Cape San Antonio--River Plata--Currents

--Tides--Barometer--Absence of Trees--Cattle 67

CHAPTER V.

Eastern Pampa Coast--Point Medanos--Mar-chiquito--Ranges of Hills

--Direction of Inlets, Shoals, and Rivers--Cape Corrientes--Tosca

Coast--Blanco Bay--Mount Hermoso--Port Belgrano--Mr. Harris

--Ventana Mountain--View--Argentine--Commandant--Major--Situation

--Toriano--Indians--Fossils--Animals--Fish--Climate--Pumice--Ashes

--Conway--Deliberations--Consequent Decision--Responsibility

incurred--Paz--Liebre--Gale--Hunger--Fossils at Hermoso--Fossils

at Point Alta--Express sent to Buenos Ayres--Suspicions and

absurd alarm--Rodriguez 97

CHAPTER VI.

Beagle sails with Paz and Liebre--Part company--Beagle visits

Buenos Ayres--Nautical remarks on the Plata--Sail from Monte Video

for San Blas--Lieut. Wickham and tenders--Butterflies--Sail for

Tierra del Fuego--White water--Icebergs--Rocks--Cape San

Sebastian--Oens men--Cape San Diego--Good Success Bay--Natives

--Guanacoes--Cape Horn--St. Martin Cove--Gales--Heavy Seas--Nassau

Bay--Goree Road--Prepare to land Matthews and the Fuegians 114

CHAPTER VII.

Southern Aborigines of South America 129

CHAPTER VIII.

Horse Indians of Patagonia:--Head--Physiognomy--Stature--Wanderings

--Clothing--Armour--Arms--Food--Chase--Property--Huts--Wizards

--Marriage--Children--Health--Illness--Death--Burial--War

--Horsemanship--Gambling--Caciques--Superstitions--Warfare

--Morality--Disposition--Chups--Zapallos 144

CHAPTER IX.

Features--Form--Paint--Disposition--Food--Doctor--Religious ideas

--Superstitions--Marriage--Death--Burial--Cannibalism--Weapons

--Women’s occupation--Training--Obtaining food--Fire--Language

--Sagacity and local knowledge--Battles--Ceremony--Natives in

Trinidad Gulf--Obstruction Sound--Potatoes--Dogs 175

CHAPTER X.

Set out to land Matthews and the Fuegians--Their meeting with

Natives--Supposed Volcano--Dream--Oens-men--Scene--Arrival at

Woollȳa--Encampment--Concourse of Natives--Jemmy’s Family--Wigwams

--Gardens--Distrust--Experiment--Westward Exploration--Remove

Matthews--Revisit Woollȳa--Gale--Sail for the Falkland Islands 202

CHAPTER XI.

Historical Sketch of the Falkland Islands 228

CHAPTER XII.

First Appearance of Falklands--Tides--Currents--Winds--Seasons

--Temperature--Rain--Health--Dangers--Cautions--View--Settlement

--Animals--Foxes--Varieties--Seal--Whales--Fish and Fishery--Birds

--Brushwood--Peat--Pasture--Potash--Orchilla--Grazing--Corn--Fruit

--Vegetables--Trees--Plants--Land--Situation of principal

Settlement--Prospective advantages--Suggestions--Vernet’s

Establishment--Reflections 241

CHAPTER XIII.

Anchor in Berkeley Sound--Le Magellan--British flag hoisted--Ruined

Settlement--Mr. Hellyer drowned--Burial--French Whalers--Unicorn

--Adventure--Squall--Flashes--Fossils--Killing Wild Cattle--Sail

from Falklands--River Negro--Maldonado--Constitucion--Heave down,

copper, and refit Adventure--Signs of weather--Sound banks--Los

Cesares--Settle with Harris, and part company--Blanco Bay--Return

to Maldonado--Monte Video 269

CHAPTER XIV.

Paz and Liebre begin work--Chronometers--Fish--Animals--San Blas

--Wrecks--River Negro--Del Carmen--Inhabitants--Indians--Trade

--Williams drowned--Port Desire--Gale--Salinas--Lightning--Bones

in Tomb--Trees--Dangers--New Bay--Cattle--Seal--Soil--River Chupat

--Drift Timber--Fertility--Wild Cattle--Valdes Creek--Imminent

danger--Tide Races--Bar of the Negro--Hunting--Attack of Indians

--Villarino--Falkner 295

CHAPTER XV.

Beagle and Adventure sail from Monte Video--Port Desire--Bellaco

Rock--Refraction--Port San Julian--Viedma--Drake--Magalhaens

--Patagonians--Port Famine--San Sebastian Bay--Woollȳa--Jemmy

--Story--Treachery--Oens men--Improvement--Gratitude--Falklands

--Events--Capt. Seymour--Search for Murderers--Lieut. Smith

--Brisbane--Wreck--Sufferings--Lieutenant Clive--Sail from

Falklands 316

CHAPTER XVI.

Soundings--Anchor in Santa Cruz--Lay Beagle ashore for repair

--Prepare to ascend river--Set out--View of surrounding country

--Rapid stream--Cold--Ostriches--Guanacoes--Indians--Fish--Cliffs

--Firewood--Lava Cliffs--Difficulties--Chalia--See Andes--Farthest

West--View round--Return--Danger--Guanaco hunters--Puma--Cat

--Tides--Sail from Santa Cruz 336

CHAPTER XVII.

Beagle and Adventure sail from Port Famine through Magdalen and

Cockburn Channel--Enter Pacific--Death of Mr. Rowlett--Chilóe--Chile

--Government--Adventure sold--Consequent changes--Plans--Mr. Low

--Chonos--Lieut. Sulivan’s party--Moraleda--Ladrilleros--De Vea

--Sharp--San Andres--Vallenar--Mr. Stokes--San Estevan--Distressed

sailors--Anna Pink Bay--Port Low--Potatoes--Indian names--Huafo

--Volcano--Chilotes--Aborigines--Militia--Freebooters--Climate

--Docks--Tides--Witchcraft--Alerse--Calbucanos--Cesares--Search

for men--Meteors 359

CHAPTER XVIII.

Leave Chilóe--Valdivia--Earthquake--Aborigines--Traditions--Words

--Convicts--Tolten--Boroa--Imperial--Mocha--Shocks of Earthquake

--Anchor off Talcahuano--Ruins--Account of a great Earthquake,

which destroyed the city of Concepcion; and was felt from Chilóe

to Copiapó; from Juan Fernandes to Mendoza 396

CHAPTER XIX.

Mocha--Movement of Land--Penco--Ulloa--Shells--Coal--Maule

--Topocalma--Aconcagua--Valparaiso--Horcon--Papudo--Pichidanque

--Conchali--Herradura--Coquimbo--Wreck--Challenger--Blonde--Ride

--Estate--Colcura--Villagran--Arauco--Former caciques--Colocolo

--Caupolican--Scenery--Quiapo--Night travelling--Leübu--Tucapel

--Valdivia--Lautaro--Challenger 419

CHAPTER XX.

Challenger sails--Sounds off Mocha--Wrecked on the mainland--Crew

saved--Stores landed--Camp formed--Great exertions, and excellent

conduct--Mr. Consul Rouse--Leübu--Plague of mice--Curious rats

--Return to Blonde--Ulpu--Araucanian dress--Arauco--‘Boroanos’

--Tubul--Bar rivers--Apples--Ferry--Blonde sails--Seek for the

Leübu--Schooner Carmen--Errors and delay--Embark Challenger’s crew

--Rescue the Carmen--Talcahuano--New Concepcion--Valparaiso

--Coquimbo--Challenger’s sail in Conway--Reflections 451

CHAPTER XXI.

Andes--Aconcagua--Villarica--Islay--Powder--Callao--Rejoin Beagle

--Constitucion--Plans--Wilson--Carrasco--‘Galāpagos’--Iguanas--Lava

Rocks--Land-tortoises--Craters--Turtle--Shells--Dye--Volcanoes

--Settlement--Albemarle Island--Cyclopian Scene--Tagus Cove--Tide

Ripples--Settlers--Climate--Salt--Dampier--Birds--Transportation

of Tortoises--Currents--Temperature of Water 481

CHAPTER XXII.

Dangerous Archipelago of the Low Islands--Krusenstern--Squalls

--Discoveries--Otaheite--Matavai--Natives--Houses--Point Venus

--Theft--Singing--Pomare--Sugar--Papiete--Church--Mr. Pritchard

--Thierry--Shells--Mr. Nott--Bible--Paamuto Natives--Falkner--‘Ua’

--Papawa--Relics--Divine Service--Hitote--Henry--Audience--Queen

--Missionaries--Roman Catholics--Forming head--Meeting at Papiete

--Dress--Behaviour--Eloquence of natives--Honourable feelings

--Interesting discussion--Venilia 506

CHAPTER XXIII.

Continuation of the Meeting at Papiete--Questions--Explanation

--Meeting ends--Pilotage--Mr. Wilson--Queen’s Visit--Fireworks

--School--Intelligence--Letters--Inhabitants--Dress--Conduct

--Abolition of Spirits--Defect in Character--Domestic Scene--Aura

Island--Newton at Bow Island--Pearl Oyster Shells--Divers

--Steering--Queen’s Letter--Collection--Sail from Otaheite

--Whylootacke--Flight of Birds--Navigators--Friendly--Feejee

Islands--English Chief--Precautions--La Pérouse 540

CHAPTER XXIV.

New Zealand--Bay of Islands--Kororareka--Fences--Flag--Paihia

--Natives--Features--Tattow--Population--Colour--Manner--War-Canoes

--Prospects--Mackintosh--Fern--Church--Resident--Vines--Villages

--Houses--Planks--Cooking--Church--Marae--First Mission--Settlers

--Pomare--Marion--Cawa-Cawa--Meeting--Chiefs--Rats--Spirits--Wine

--Nets--Burial--Divine Service--Singing--Causes of Disturbances

--Reflections and Suggestions--Polynesian Interests--Resources for

Ships in the Pacific 564

CHAPTER XXV.

Waimate--Cultivation--Flax--Apteryx--Gardens--Missionaries--Farm

--Barn--Mill--Grave of Shunghi--Horses--Kauri Pine--Keri-keri

--Children--Waripoaka--La Favorite--Political condition--Relics

--Images, or Amulets--Mats--Leave New Zealand--Remarks--Intercourse

--Convicts--Effects of Missionary exertion--Irregular Settlements

--Trade--Residents and Consuls--Missionary Embarrassments--Society’s

Lands--Discontent of Settlers--Purchase of Land--Influence of

Missionaries--Their sphere of action 598

CHAPTER XXVI.

North Cape of New Zealand--Superstitions--Cook’s great Lizard

--Traditions--Currents--Thermometer--Sydney--Dr. Darwin--Drought

--Aqueduct--Position--Disadvantages--Ill-acquired wealth of

Convicts, or Emancipists--Hobart Town--Advantages of Van Diemen’s

Land--King George Sound--Natives--Dance--Keeling Islands--Tides

--Soundings--Coral formations--Malays--Fish--Weather--Mauritius

--Cape of Good Hope--St. Helena--Ascension--Bahia--Pernambuco

--Cape Verde Islands--Azores--Arrive in England 619

CHAPTER XXVII.

Remarks on the early migrations of the human race 640

CHAPTER XXVIII.

A very few Remarks with reference to the Deluge 657

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER

FOR PLACING THE PLATES.

VOLUME II.

Chart of Tierra del Fuego Loose.

Chart of Chilóe Loose.

Fuegian (Yapoo Tekeenica) Frontispiece.

Panoramic View of Madeira to face page 46

Crossing the Line 57

San Salvador, Bahia 62

Patagonians at Gregory Bay 136

Fuegians--Yacana, Pecheray, &c. 141

Fuegians going to trade in Zapallos with the Patagonians 171

Woollȳa 208

Berkeley Sound--Falkland Islands 248

Bivouac at the Head of Port Desire Inlet 316

Button Island, near Woollȳa 323

Fuegians--Minster, &c. 324

Cove in Beagle Channel, &c. 326

Beagle laid ashore in Santa Cruz 336

Santa Cruz--Plan of Port and River 339

Basalt Glen--River Santa Cruz 348

Santa Cruz River--distant view of Andes 351

Mystery Plain, near the Santa Cruz 352

Mount Sarmiento, from Warp Bay 359

Valdivia 398

Remains of the Cathedral at Concepcion 405

Albemarle Island, &c. 498

Otaheite, or Tahiti 509

Otaheite, Eimeo, Matavai, Chapel 517

New Zealanders 568

NOTE.--The loose Plates are to be folded into pockets in the

covers of the volumes.

SURVEYING VOYAGES

OF

THE BEAGLE.

1831-1836.

CHAPTER I.

Explanation--Natives of Tierra del Fuego, or Fuegians--Passages

across the Equator (Atlantic)--Letters--Small-pox--Hospital

--Boat--Memory--Fuegians in London--At Walthamstow--At St.

James’s--Beagle recommissioned--Correspondence with Mr. Wilson

--Fuegians re-embark.

As the following narrative of the Beagle’s second voyage to South

America is a sequel to the “Surveying Voyages of the Adventure and

the Beagle,” which are related in the preceding volume, it may be

advisable that this chapter should contain a sketch of some few

incidents intimately connected with the origin and plan of the second

Expedition.

Captain King has already mentioned that the two ships under his

orders sailed from Rio de Janeiro, on their homeward passage, early

in August 1830.

During the time which elapsed before we reached England, I had

time to see much of my Fuegian companions; and daily became more

interested about them as I attained a further acquaintance with their

abilities and natural inclinations. Far, very far indeed, were three

of the number from deserving to be called savages--even at this

early period of their residence among civilized people--though the

other, named York Minster, was certainly a displeasing specimen of

uncivilized human nature.

The acts of cannibalism occasionally committed by their countrymen,

were explained to me in such terms, and with such signs, that I could

not possibly misunderstand them; and a still more revolting account

was given, though in a less explicit manner, respecting the horrible

fate of the eldest women of their own tribes, when there is an

unusual scarcity of food.

This half-understood story I did not then notice much, for I could

not believe it; but as, since that time, a familiarity with our

language has enabled the Fuegians to tell other persons, as well as

myself, of this strange and diabolical atrocity: and as Mr. Low (of

whom mention will often be made in the following pages) was satisfied

of the fact, from the concurrent testimony of other Fuegians who had,

at different times, passed months on board his vessel, I no longer

hesitate to state my firm belief in the most debasing trait of their

character which will be found in these pages.

At the sea-ports which the Beagle visited in her way from Tierra del

Fuego to England, animals, ships, and boats seemed to engage the

notice of our copper-coloured friends far more than human beings or

houses. When any thing excited their attention particularly, they

would appear, at the time, almost stupid and unobservant; but that

they were not so in reality was shown by their eager chattering to

one another at the very first subsequent opportunity, and by the

sensible remarks made by them a long time afterwards, when we fancied

they had altogether forgotten unimportant occurrences which took

place during the first few months of their sojourn among us.

A large ox, with unusually long horns, excited their wonder

remarkably; but in no instance was outward emotion noticed, to any

great degree, excepting when they saw a steam-vessel going into

Falmouth Harbour. What extraordinary monster it was, they could not

imagine. Whether it was a huge fish, a land animal, or the devil (of

whom they have a notion in their country), they could not decide;

neither could they understand the attempted explanations of our

sailors, who tried to make them comprehend its nature: but, indeed,

I think that no one who remembers standing, for the first time, near

a railway, and witnessing the rapid approach of a steam-engine, with

its attached train of carriages, as it dashed along, smoking and

snorting, will be surprised at the effect which a large steam-ship,

passing at full speed near the Beagle, in a dark night, must have had

on these ignorant, though rather intelligent barbarians.

Before relating occurrences subsequent to our arrival in England, I

must ask permission to make the first of a few nautical remarks that

will be found in this volume, some of which, I hope, may be useful to

young sailors.

Our passage across the Atlantic, from Rio de Janeiro to Falmouth,

was unusually long. In order to sail within sight of the Cape Verd

Islands, for a particular purpose, we steered eastward from the

coast of Brazil, and crossed the equator far east. This course,

unavoidable in our case, carried us into that tract of ocean, between

the trade-winds, which in August and September is subject to westerly

winds--sometimes extremely strong--and we encountered a very heavy

gale, although so near the equator. Afterwards, when close to our own

shores, we were unfortunate enough to be delayed by what seamen call

a hard-hearted easterly wind; and not until the middle of October

were we moored in a British port.

As a remarkable contrast, a Falmouth packet, which sailed from Rio

de Janeiro some time after our departure, steered northward, as soon

as she had cleared the coast of Brazil, crossed the line far to the

west, and arrived in England a fortnight before us.

My own humble opinion, with respect to crossing the equator, is,

that an outward-bound ship ought to cross near twenty-five--and

that one homeward-bound may go even beyond thirty degrees of west

longitude--but should not attempt to pass eastward of twenty-five.

Ships crossing the line between twenty-five and thirty degrees

west, are, I believe, far less subject to detention--taking the year

through--than those which adopt easterly courses.

Cape St. Roque, St. Paul Rocks, Fernando Noronha, and the Roccas,

ought not to be thought of too lightly; but in avoiding them, and the

lee current near St. Roque, many ships have encountered the tedious

calms, extremely hot weather, frequent torrents of rain, and violent

squalls, which are more or less prevalent between the longitudes of

twenty and ten degrees west.

To return to the Fuegians. While on our passage home I addressed the

following letter to my commanding officer and kind friend, Captain

King.

Beagle, at sea, Sept. 12, 1830.

“Sir,

“I have the honour of reporting to you that there are now on

board of his Majesty’s sloop, under my command, four natives of

Tierra del Fuego.

“Their names and estimated ages are,

York Minster 26

Boat Memory 20

James Button 14

Fuegia Basket (a girl) 9

“I have maintained them entirely at my own expense, and hold

myself responsible for their comfort while away from, and for

their safe return to their own country: and I have now to request

that, as senior officer of the Expedition, you will consider of

the possibility of some public advantage being derived from this

circumstance; and of the propriety of offering them, with that

view, to his Majesty’s Government.

“If you think it proper to make the offer, I will keep them in

readiness to be removed according to your directions.

“I am now to account for my having these Fuegians on board, and

to explain my future views with respect to them.

“In February last, the Beagle being moored in ‘Townshend

Harbour,’ on the south-west coast of Tierra del Fuego, I sent Mr.

Matthew Murray (master), with six men, in a whale-boat, to Cape

Desolation; the projecting part of a small, but high and rugged

island, detached from the main land, and twelve miles distant

from Townshend Harbour.

“Mr. Murray reached the place, and secured his party and the

boat in a cove near the cape: but during a very dark night, some

Fuegians, whose vicinity was not at all suspected, approached

with the dexterous cunning peculiar to savages and stole the boat.

“Thus deprived of the means of returning to the Beagle, and

unable to make their situation known, Mr. Murray and his party

formed a sort of canoe, or rather basket, with the branches of

trees and part of their canvas tent, and in this machine three

men made their way back to the Beagle, by his directions: yet,

although favoured by the only fine day that occurred during the

three weeks which the Beagle passed in Townshend Harbour, this

basket was twenty hours on its passage.

“Assistance was immediately given to the master and the other

men, and a chase for our lost boat was begun, which lasted many

days, but was unsuccessful in its object, although much of the

lost boat’s gear was found, and the women and children of the

families from whom it was recovered, were brought on board as

hostages. The men, excepting one of them, escaped from us, or

were absent in our missing boat.

“At the end of February the Beagle anchored in Christmas Sound;

but before this time all our prisoners had escaped, except three

little girls, two of whom we restored to their own tribe, near

‘Whale-boat Sound,’ and the other is now on board.

“From the first canoe seen in Christmas Sound, one man was taken

as a hostage for the recovery of our boat, and to become an

interpreter and guide. He came to us with little reluctance, and

appeared unconcerned.

“A few days afterwards, traces of our boat were found at some

wigwams on an island in Christmas Sound, and from the families

inhabiting those wigwams I took another young man, for the same

purpose as that above-mentioned. No useful information respecting

our lost boat was, however, gained from them, before we were

obliged to leave that coast, and she remained the prize of their

companions.

“Afterwards, when in Nassau Bay, our captives informed us that

the natives of that part of the coast, and all to the eastward,

were their enemies, and that they spoke a different language.

This intelligence was extremely disappointing, and made me

anxious to persuade one of this eastern tribe to come on board

and stay with us; but I had then no hopes of doing so, and gave

up the idea: however, some time afterwards, accidentally meeting

three canoes, when away in my boat exploring the Beagle Channel,

I prevailed on their occupants to put one of the party, a stout

boy, into my boat, and in return I gave them beads, buttons, and

other trifles. Whether they intended that he should remain with

us permanently, I do not know; but they seemed contented with the

singular bargain, and paddled again towards the cove from which

they had approached my boat. We pulled on along shore, attended

by other canoes, which had been endeavouring to barter with us

whenever we stopped; but at dusk they ceased following us and

went ashore.

“When about to depart from the Fuegian coast, I decided to keep

these four natives on board, for they appeared to be quite

cheerful and contented with their situation; and I thought that

many good effects might be the consequence of their living a

short time in England. They have lived, and have been clothed

like the seamen, and are now, and have been always, in excellent

health and very happy. They understand why they were taken, and

look forward with pleasure to seeing our country, as well as to

returning to their own.

“Should not his Majesty’s Government direct otherwise, I shall

procure for these people a suitable education, and, after two

or three years, shall send or take them back to their country,

with as large a stock as I can collect of those articles most

useful to them, and most likely to improve the condition of their

countrymen, who are now scarcely superior to the brute creation.

“I have, &c.

ROBERT FITZ-ROY,

Commander.”

“Phillip Parker King, Esq.

Commander H.M.S. Adventure,

Senior officer of the Expedition.”

This letter was forwarded to the Admiralty by Captain King, as soon

as he arrived in England; and a few days afterwards the following

answer was received.

Admiralty Office, 19th Oct. 1830.

“Sir,

“Having laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your

letter and its enclosure from Commander Fitz-Roy, of the Beagle,

relative to the four Indians whom he has brought from Tierra del

Fuego under the circumstances therein stated; I am commanded

to acquaint you that their Lordships will not interfere with

Commander Fitz-Roy’s personal superintendence of, or benevolent

intentions towards these four people, but they will afford him

any facilities towards maintaining and educating them in England,

and will give them a passage home again.

“I am, &c.

(Signed) JOHN BARROW.”

“To Commander King,

H.M.S.V. Adventure.”

I was, of course, anxious to protect the Fuegians, as far as

possible, from the contagion of any of those disorders, sometimes

prevalent, and which unhappily have so often proved fatal to the

aboriginal natives of distant countries when brought to Europe; and,

immediately after our arrival in England, they landed with me, after

dark, and were taken to comfortable, airy lodgings, where, next day,

they were vaccinated, for the second time.

Two days afterwards they were carried a few miles into the country,

to a quiet farm-house, where I hoped they would enjoy more freedom

and fresh air, and, at the same time, incur less risk of contagion

than in a populous sea-port town, where curiosity would be excited.

Meanwhile, the Beagle was stripped and cleared out; and the Adventure

went to Woolwich for a similar purpose, preparatory to being paid

off. On the 27th of October, the Beagle’s pendant was hauled down;

and on the 15th of November, the Adventure was put out of commission.

Both vessels’ crews were dispersed, as usual, unfortunately; and

of those who had passed so many rough hours together, but few were

likely to meet again. I much regretted the separation from my tried

and esteemed shipmates, and from our excellent little vessel.

Soon afterwards, Captain King and Lieutenant Skyring were promoted: a

gratifying proof of the good opinion of their exertions and conduct,

which was entertained by the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty.

Early in November I received the sad intelligence that the young

man, called Boat Memory, was taken ill; and that the symptoms of

his disorder were like those of the small-pox. Dr. Armstrong, of

the Royal Hospital at Plymouth, whose advice I solicited, suggested

that he and the other three Fuegians should be received immediately

into the hospital, with the view of preventing further infection,

and ensuring the best treatment for the poor sufferer. Dr. Armstrong

applied to the physician, Dr. Dickson (now Sir David Dickson), as

well as Sir James Gordon, the superintendent, and by their advice and

permission the Fuegians were removed into the hospital without delay;

and an application was made to the Admiralty, of which the following

is a copy.

“Devonport, 7th Nov. 1830.

“Sir,

“I have the honour of addressing you to request that the four

Fuegians, whom I brought to England in the Beagle, may be

received into the Royal Naval Hospital.

“The Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty have stated in a

letter to Commander King, dated 19th Oct. 1830, that ‘their

Lordships will not interfere with Commander Fitz-Roy’s personal

superintendance of, or benevolent intentions towards these four

people, but they will afford him any assistance in maintaining

and educating them in England, and will give them a passage home

again.’

“In consequence of this assurance, I now beg that you will draw

their Lordships’ attention to the circumstance of an eruption

having broken out upon one of the Fuegian men, since he was

vaccinated, which is supposed, by the medical officers of the

hospital, to be the small-pox.

“As the other three individuals have been always in company with

him, it is to be feared that they also are affected; and as the

vaccination has not yet taken a proper effect, it is the opinion

of the medical officers that it would be safer to receive them

into the hospital, until the present critical period is passed,

than to allow them to remain in private care.

“I have further to request, that my late coxswain, James Bennett,

may be permitted to accompany, and remain with the Fuegians,

in order to attend upon them, in the event of their Lordships

allowing them to be admitted into the hospital; and I hope, Sir,

that the peculiar nature of the case may be thought to justify

this application.

“I have, &c.

ROBERT FITZ-ROY, Commander.”

“The Secretary

of the Admiralty.

Admiralty-Office, 10th Nov. 1830.

“Sir,

“I am commanded by my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty to

acquaint you, in answer to your letter of this day’s date, that

directions have been given for the admission of the four Fuegians

therein alluded to, into the Naval Hospital at Plymouth, and that

James Bennett be allowed to attend them, agreeably with your

request.

“I am, Sir, &c.

(Signed) “JOHN BARROW.”

“Commander Fitz-Roy.

The Admiralty having thus sanctioned the admission of the Fuegians

into one of the best hospitals, and assured that they could not be

under better treatment than that of the well-known gentlemen whom

I have mentioned, I felt less anxiety in leaving them for a time,

as I was obliged to do, in order to attend to duties connected with

the survey; but I had hardly reached London, when a letter from Dr.

Dickson informed me of the untimely fate of Boat Memory. He had been

vaccinated four different times; but the three first operations had

failed, and the last had just taken effect, when the disease showed

itself. It was thought that the fatal contagion must have attacked

him previously.

This poor fellow was a very great favourite with all who knew him, as

well as with myself. He had a good disposition, very good abilities,

and though born a savage, had a pleasing, intelligent appearance.

He was quite an exception to the general character of the Fuegians,

having good features and a well-proportioned frame. It may readily

be supposed that this was a severe blow to me, for I was deeply

sensible of the responsibility which had been incurred; and, however

unintentionally, could not but feel how much I was implicated in

shortening his existence. Neither of the others were attacked, the

last vaccination having taken full effect; but they were allowed

to remain in the hospital for some time longer, until I could make

satisfactory arrangements for them. While they were under Dr.

Dickson’s care, in the hospital, his own children had the measles;

and thinking that it would be a good opportunity to carry the little

Fuegian girl through that illness, he prepared her for it, and then

took her into his house, among his own children; where she had a very

favourable attack, and recovered thoroughly.

Of course, I was anxious that no time should be lost in arranging

a plan for their education and maintenance; and deeming the Church

Missionary Society to be in some measure interested about the project

I had in view, I applied to their secretary, through whose kindness

I became acquainted with the Rev. Joseph Wigram; to whom I am under

great obligations for the friendly interest taken at that time in my

wishes with respect to the Fuegians, and for introducing them and

myself to the notice of the Rev. William Wilson, of Walthamstow.

Mr. Wilson at once relieved my mind from a load of uncertainty and

anxiety, by saying that they should be received into his parish, and

that he would talk to the master of the Infant School about taking

them into his house, as boarders and pupils. In a short time, it

was arranged that the schoolmaster should receive, and take entire

charge of them, while they remained in England, and should be paid

by me for their board and lodging, for his own trouble, and for all

contingent expenses.

Mr. Wilson proposed to keep a watchful eye over them himself, and

give advice from time to time to their guardian and instructor. Mr.

Wigram also lived at Walthamstow, and as he would have frequent

opportunities of offering a useful caution, in case that the

numerous calls upon Mr. Wilson’s attention should at any time render

additional thoughts for the Fuegians an unfair or unpleasant trouble

to him--I did indeed think that no plan could be devised offering a

better prospect; and immediately made arrangements for conveying them

to London.

The inside of a stage-coach was taken, and under the guidance of Mr.

Murray (the Beagle’s late master), attended by James Bennett, they

arrived in Piccadilly, and were immediately carried to Walthamstow,

without attracting any notice. Mr. Murray told me that they seemed to

enjoy their journey in the coach, and were very much struck by the

repeated changing of horses.

I took them myself from the coach-office to Walthamstow; they were

glad to see me, but seemed bewildered by the multitude of new

objects. Passing Charing Cross, there was a start and exclamation

of astonishment from York. ‘Look!’ he said, fixing his eyes on the

lion upon Northumberland House, which he certainly thought alive, and

walking there. I never saw him show such sudden emotion at any other

time. They were much pleased with the rooms prepared for them at

Walthamstow; and the schoolmaster and his wife were equally pleased

to find the future inmates of their house very well disposed, quiet,

and cleanly people; instead of fierce and dirty savages.

At Walthamstow they remained from December 1830 till October 1831;

and during all that time were treated with the utmost kindness by the

benevolent men whose names I have mentioned; by their families, and

by many others in the neighbourhood, as well as casual visitors, who

became much interested in their welfare, and from time to time gave

them several valuable presents.

The attention of their instructor was directed to teaching them

English, and the plainer truths of Christianity, as the first object;

and the use of common tools, a slight acquaintance with husbandry,

gardening, and mechanism, as the second. Considerable progress was

made by the boy and girl; but the man was hard to teach, except

mechanically. He took interest in smith’s or carpenter’s work,

and paid attention to what he saw and heard about animals; but

he reluctantly assisted in garden work, and had a great dislike

to learning to read. By degrees, a good many words of their own

languages were collected (the boy’s differed from that of the man and

the girl), and some interesting information was acquired, respecting

their own native habits and ideas. They gave no particular trouble;

were very healthy; and the two younger ones became great favourites

wherever they were known. Sometimes I took them with me to see a

friend or relation of my own, who was anxious to question them, and

contribute something to the increasing; stock of serviceable articles

which I was collecting for their use, when they should return to

Tierra del Fuego. My sister was a frequent benefactress; and they

often talked, both then and afterwards, of going to see ‘Cappen

Sisser.’

During the summer of 1831, his late Majesty expressed to Colonel

Wood a wish to see the Fuegians, and they were taken to St. James’s.

His Majesty asked a great deal about their country, as well as

themselves; and I hope I may be permitted to remark that, during an

equal space of time, no person ever asked me so many sensible and

thoroughly pertinent questions respecting the Fuegians and their

country also relating to the survey in which I had myself been

engaged, as did his Majesty. Her Majesty Queen Adelaide also honoured

the Fuegians by her presence, and by acts of genuine kindness which

they could appreciate, and never forgot. She left the room, in which

they were, for a minute, and returned with one of her own bonnets,

which she put upon the girl’s head. Her Majesty then put one of her

rings upon the girl’s finger, and gave her a sum of money to buy an

outfit of clothes when she should leave England to return to her own

country.

I must now revert to matters more immediately connected with the

Beagle’s second voyage.

My own official duties, relating to the survey, were completed in

March 1831; when my late commanding officer, Captain King, addressed

a letter to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty expressive of

his approbation of the part I had taken, under his direction, and

recommending me to their Lordships.[1]

From various conversations which I had with Captain King, during the

earlier period of my service under him, I had been led to suppose

that the survey of the southern coasts of South America would be

continued; and to some ship, ordered upon such a service, I had

looked for an opportunity of restoring the Fuegians to their native

land.

Finding, however, to my great disappointment, that an entire change

had taken place in the views of the Lords of the Admiralty, and that

there was no intention to prosecute the survey, I naturally became

anxious about the Fuegians; and, in June, having no hopes of a

man-of-war being sent to Tierra del Fuego, and feeling too much bound

to these natives to trust them in any other kind of vessel, unless

with myself--because of the risk that would attend their being landed

anywhere, excepting on the territories of their own tribes--I made an

agreement[2] with the owner of a small merchant-vessel, the John of

London, to carry me and five other persons to such places in South

America as I wished to visit, and eventually to land me at Valparaiso.

My arrangements were all made, and James Bennett, who was to

accompany me, had already purchased a number of goats, with which I

purposed stocking some of the islands of Tierra del Fuego--when a

kind uncle, to whom I mentioned my plan, went to the Admiralty, and

soon afterwards told me that I should be appointed to the command of

the Chanticleer, to go to Tierra del Fuego.

My agreement with the owner of the John was, however, in full force,

and I could not alter it without paying a large proportion of the

whole sum agreed on for the voyage.

The Chanticleer was not, upon examination, found quite fit for

service; and, instead of her, I was again appointed to my well-tried

little vessel, the Beagle. My commission was dated the 27th of June,

and on the same day two of my most esteemed friends, Lieutenants

Wickham and Sulivan, were also appointed.

* * * * *

While the Beagle was fitting out at Devonport, I received the

following letter from Mr. Wilson.

Walthamstow, 5th Aug. 1831.

“Sir,

“I am informed that the Fuegians who have been lately resident in

this place are shortly to return to their native country under

your care. Will you permit me to ask whether, if two individuals

should volunteer to accompany and remain with them, in order to

attempt to teach them such useful arts as may be thought suited

to their gradual civilization, you will give them a passage

in the Beagle? and whether, upon your arrival on the coast of

Tierra del Fuego, you will be able to give them some assistance

in establishing a friendly intercourse with, and settlement

amongst the natives of that country? Would these individuals be

required to pay you for their passage, and maintenance on board?

or would his Majesty’s Government allow them to be maintained

on board at the public expense? Do you think that you would be

able to visit them, after their first settlement, supposing so

desirable an object should be attained, in order to give them

some encouragement, and perhaps assistance; or to remove them if

they should find it impracticable to continue their residence

among the natives?

“A subscription has been set on foot by gentlemen who are

extremely desirous that this opportunity of extending the

benefits of civilization should not be lost; and, in consequence

of their united wishes, I now take the liberty of asking these

questions.

“I am, &c.

(Signed) “WILLIAM WILSON.”

“To Captain Fitz-Roy, R.N.”

After reading this communication, I wrote to the Secretary of the

Admiralty, and enclosed a copy of Mr. Wilson’s letter. The answer is

subjoined.

Admiralty Office, 10th Aug. 1831.

“Sir,

“Having laid before my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty your

letter of yesterday’s date, with the letter which accompanied it,

from the Rev. William Wilson, respecting the natives of Tierra

del Fuego who were brought to England in his Majesty’s ship

Beagle; I am commanded to acquaint you that their Lordships will

give the necessary orders for the passage of these individuals,

and of the two persons who are to accompany them; and that your

request to be allowed to visit these people, after their arrival,

will be taken into consideration in preparing your instructions.

“I am, &c.

(Signed) “JOHN BARROW.”

“To Commander Fitz-Roy,

“H.M.S. Beagle.”

In consequence of this reply, it was wished that two persons should

accompany the Fuegians, and endeavour to pass some time in their

country: but it was not easy to find individuals sufficiently

qualified, and in whom confidence could be placed, who would

willingly undertake such an enterprise. One young man was selected

by Mr. Wilson, but a companion for him could not be found in time to

embark on board the Beagle.

In October the party from Walthamstow arrived, in a steam-vessel, at

Plymouth, and not a few boats were required to transport to our ship

the large cargo of clothes, tools, crockery-ware, books, and various

things which the families at Walthamstow and other kind-hearted

persons had given. In the small hold of the Beagle, it was not

easy to find places for the stowage of so many extra stores; and

when dividing the contents of large chests, in order to pack them

differently, some very fair jokes were enjoyed by the seamen, at the

expense of those who had ordered complete sets of crockery-ware,

without desiring that any selection of articles should be made.

Instructions were given, by the Secretary of the Church Missionary

Society, to the young man who wished to accompany the Fuegians, which

will be found in the Appendix; and although he was rather too young,

and less experienced than might have been wished, his character and

conduct had been such as to give very fair grounds for anticipating

that he would, at least, sincerely endeavour to do his utmost in a

situation so difficult and trying as that for which he volunteered.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] Appendix.

[2] Ibid.