Flowers that Spring from a Storehouse (Bulbs and Tubers)
Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow: they
toil not, neither do they spin: and yet I say unto you
that even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed
like one of these.
--_Matthew_ vi, 28, 29.
IF you are going to be a really-truly gardener, you will want to know
something about the plants and flowers that you try to grow, so let's
have a few words right here about the difference between the bulb and
tuber families. They can be classed together because they both spring
from what is in fact a storehouse filled one season with food to help
them through the next season's bloom!
Hyacinths and daffodils, for example, come from BULBS, which are built
up, layer on layer, exactly like an onion.
Dahlias and Cannas, however, grow from a TUBER, which is an underground
knob on the stem, quite a little like a sweet potato, and which sends
out the shoots that make new plants.
The crocus and the gladiolus both spring from a CORM, which differs from
the bulb in that it is solid (not in layers), and from the tuber in that
it is not like a potato in shape but oval.
The iris, though, grows from a RHIZOME, a thickened root running along
the ground (often half exposed), which throws up the new plants as it
spreads.
The bulb and tuber families are treated very much alike. Some of each
are left in the ground year after year, like the daffodils and the
lilies, while others, like the cannas and dahlias, have to be dug up,
allowed to dry a little in the open air, and then stored in a cool, dark
place for the winter. The rhizomes do not have to be "lifted," but are
increased generally by root division,--cutting off a piece of the root
soon after flowering, and planting where it will get a good start before
next season's time to bloom.
Some people today would follow Mohammed's advice: "He that hath two
cakes of bread, let him sell one of them--for bread is only food for the
body, but the narcissus is food for the soul;" but few individuals--let
alone a nation--would grow so wildly enthusiastic as once did the Dutch,
as to spend every last possession to buy tulips! But we dearly love all
of these groups, and are using them in increasing numbers every season.
The fascinating work of growing certain kinds indoors during the winter
I tell you about in the chapter on "The Care of House Plants," so here
we will consider the outdoor culture.
The delicate snowdrop is the very earliest of these visitors, and
planted in groups in half-shady places,--like under trees,--where they
will not be disturbed, will thereafter take care of themselves. Then
quickly follow the lovely crocuses, white, yellow, lavender, purple, and
the varigated, which often are planted right where they fall after being
scattered broadcast over the lawn,--though if the head of the house cuts
the grass before the middle of April they should be set in a bed where
they will not be touched.
Hyacinths are beautiful, but personally I do not care much about them in
the garden, as they generally have to be planted in masses to get any
effect, and need, therefore, to be used in large numbers, are more
expensive than the other bulbs, and should be taken out of the ground
soon after blooming and stored in a cool place until fall. However, one
enthusiast that I know plants in rings of 6, and leaves them in the
ground!
The daffodil, jonquil and narcissus are three types of the narcissus
family, the daffodils usually being distinguished by their long
trumpets, while the jonquils and narcissi have the little cup-like
centers, and, moreover, are fragrant. They should be planted in the late
fall, 4 in. below the surface, in soil that has been enriched 8 in.
below the bulb. They increase rapidly, and do not have to be taken up,
or even divided for years. If set in a border where their room is needed
after they bloom, simply turn the tops down under the soil, and sow over
them any low-growing annual, such as candytuft or poppies. My friend of
the tiny "handkerchief" garden described in Chapter II, has--think of
it!--over 1500 of these various spring-flowering bulbs in her border
that are treated this way, and never taken up! Yet a few weeks after
they have bloomed, the space they occupied is filled with new beauties.
Tulips--but as I told you, they once drove a whole country mad! Today we
have probably far more beautiful ones,--and many can be bought in the
fall at planting time, for $1.00 per hundred! Some bloom early, some
late; some are short, some tall; some are cheap, some expensive. They
will grow in partial shade or sun, and can be planted in groups in the
border, or in marginal rows for edging. By carefully choosing from both
the early and late varieties, you can enjoy your tulips for nearly two
months; and by as carefully choosing your colors, have all sorts of
artistic combinations. They should be planted 3 or 4 in. deep if the
soil is heavy, and an inch deeper in soil that is light, and set 6 in.
apart. They will prove a joy to your heart.
Tuberous-rooted begonias supply a much-felt want for lovely flowers in
half-shady or shady places. If the bulbs are started in the house in
sand in February, they will be in full leaf when ready to set out in
May, and will bloom from June until frost. Don't, please don't, plant
them upside down, but be sure that the rounded part rests on the soil.
They require light, rich earth, with plenty of water, given after
sundown.
Cannas only too often are planted in big, showy beds where they break
our rule of "open lawn centers." In fact, they are a little hard to
place, but look well in a corner, in beds along a drive, or outlining a
boundary. The ground should be spaded 2 ft. deep, well fertilized, and
then kept watered. Set plants 2 ft. apart.
The iris is one of the most beautiful and most satisfactory of all the
hardy plants. It grows in almost any soil, and any situation, but does
best in rich ground, with plenty of water. It may be planted either in
early spring or after August. The dwarf varieties, from 6 to 18 in.
high, bloom during March, April and May; the German iris, standing often
3 ft. high, in May; and the marvelous Japanese kinds, sometimes 4 ft.,
with blossoms 8 to 10 in. across, closing the season in July! (In heavy
soil they are not so tall.) When used alone in beds, one prominent
grower suggests that the German iris be combined with hardy asters (set
in between), and the Japanese with gladioli, to keep a succession of
bloom until late fall.
Lilies for the garden are of many varieties, requiring different kinds
of treatment. As a general rule, however, when the soil is heavy, set
your bulb in a nice little nest of sand, and give a blanket of the same
before filling in with the ordinary earth.
Lilies-of-the-valley will grow almost anywhere, but do well in a
half-shady position. They should be planted in masses, and fertilized in
September. When too thick, they can be transplanted in the early spring.
They increase rapidly.
The gladiolus (accent on the i, please,) can get along in almost any
kind of soil,--though it does best in rich,--if only it is planted in
the sunshine. The ground should be well dug up and fertilized
beforehand and around New York the corms set as early as April. Then,
for succession of bloom, plant at least every 10 days up to July 1st.
After they are well started, fertilize with (preferably) sheep manure,
dug in around the roots, every two weeks. Cultivate often, and keep well
watered. Plant gladioli at least 4 in. apart, and 4 in. deep, and tie up
for protection to 4-ft. stakes. Lift your bulbs,--corms, I should have
said,--late in the fall, let them dry in the air a few days, and then
store in a cool, dark place, free from frost.
Narcissi are described with the daffodils.
Peonies are classed with the Perennials, in Chapter III. Their tuberous
roots are best divided and set out in September. They can be left
undisturbed for five or six years.
Tuberoses can now be procured which will bloom from May until frost.
They are easily grown, with no particular care, and take up very little
room. Stake for safety from storms.
The dahlia next,--saved until the last for all the space I could
possibly give it! And so popular is this flower today, that some growers
raise nothing else!! One man offers us over 700 _named_ varieties!!!
Moreover, a great big club, known as The American Dahlia Society, has
been formed by people who are interested in--and wish to help
along--the growing of dahlias.
And it's no wonder that they are popular, for no other flower can be
grown in the garden that will give as many, as large, as vari-colored
and as beautiful flowers as the dahlias. Coming in every shade but true
blue, and ranging from the tiny button pom-pon to the largest prim show
or the formal decorative,--from the unique collarette to the ragged
paeony-flowered, the amateur gardener can hardly believe that they really
all belong to one family!
Of such easy culture, too. Anybody can grow them! Any good, well-drained
garden soil will do, but must have manure spaded in 10 in. deep and the
tubers must be planted in the sun. The poorer the ground, though, the
more fertilizer will you have to use. Heavy soil should be dug up and
mixed with ashes to make it light. Plant the tubers _lengthwise_--not up
and down!--in a drill at least 6 in. deep, and not less than 2-1/2 ft.
apart.
For early flowering, put in your bulbs as soon as all danger of frost is
past, but do not set near trees or shrubs that would take their
nourishment. When they sprout, pull up all shoots but one or two, in
order to produce the finest flowers. Keep the ground well cultivated,
but do not water until after the buds have formed, otherwise you will
have principally stalks and leaves. But once the buds do show, water
frequently in order to enrich the color, and dig in fertilizer around
the roots several times during the flowering season, to produce fine,
big blossoms.
[Illustration: TAKING CARE OF TABLE FERNS]
Tie each plant to a 5-ft. stake, to protect from the wind, but in
driving be careful not to pierce--and ruin--your tuber. Nip off all the
buds that are imperfect or weak, and cut your flowers with their
attendant buds and foliage. They will look better, and no further
disbudding of the plants will be necessary. And the more you cut, the
better your dahlias will bloom!
Soon after frost has killed the leaves, carefully dig up the tubers with
a spading fork. You will be surprised to find often half-a-dozen where
you set but one! Allow them to dry in the air for a day or two, then put
away in a cool, dark cellar, with a bag or paper thrown over them, and
leave for the winter. In the spring when ready to plant again, cut each
tuber so it will have a little bit of the heart of the clump on its end,
as it is close to this that the new shoots start.
Growing dahlias from seed is a most fascinating pastime, for there is no
telling what you may get! The child is rarely, if ever, like its
mother,--and this is the only way that we get the new varieties. YOU
might happen to grow one of the finest yet! The seed is started early
indoors, and very easily grown. Certainly it is worth trying.