CHAPTER II

Planning and Planting the Flower Beds

God the first garden made.--_Cowley._

WHILE the snow is on the ground, you can be deciding on the best place

for your garden, and finding out the kind of flowers and vegetables best

suited to your soil and locality.

Write to your Representative at Washington, requesting the seeds he may

have to give away. Write to two or three prominent seed firms for

catalogues, and look over the garden books at your Public Library. Then

if you do not quickly find yourself suffering from a violent attack of

Garden Fever, you might as well give up, and not attempt to have a

garden, for you will be lacking the real love and enthusiasm that count

for success.

Did you ever realize that gardens differ as much as people? "No two

gardens, no two human faces, were ever quite alike," says one writer,

and you want to make yours expressive of yourself. So before taking

another step, study your grounds, large and small,--for if you can have

only part of a tiny plot, you still have many possibilities of

expressing your own ideas and taste.

The garden is for the personal pleasure of the family, so DON'T put it

out in front, for the careless passerby. Choose a more secluded spot

where, if you wish, you can train a vine to shade your seat when you

want to sit down and enjoy the birds, butterflies and flowers.

EASY RULES FOR ARTISTIC PLANTING

Right here is the place to stop and draw a map of your proposed garden,

and mark off the spaces for your chosen plants. You might draw half a

dozen plans, and then choose the most suitable. Only never forget the

simple rules of a famous landscape gardener:--

1. Plant in masses, not isolated.

2. Avoid straight lines.

3. Preserve open lawn centers.

When you have decided on the location of your garden, coax some one

stronger than yourself to dig up the ground thoroughly, and spade in

some fertilizer,--preferably farmyard manure. Plants live on the tonic

salts they draw out of the soil through their roots, as much as they do

on the carbonic acid gas which they take out of the air through their

leaves. So have the ground nourishing, and also nicely pulverized and

free from sticks and stone, that the little rootlets can easily work

their way through and find their needed nutriment.

Never forget that third rule before mentioned,--"Preserve open lawn

centers." A beautiful lawn is as satisfying to the eye as flowers, so

never spoil one by cutting it up with beds. They can be put along the

sides, used for bordering walks, and nestled close to the house.

PLAN FOR SMALL BACK YARD

One of the loveliest gardens I know is at the back end of a city lot,

not more than thirty feet square, with a plot of velvety grass in the

center. The irregular border surrounding this bit of lawn is a mass of

flowers from earliest spring until black frost,--from March until

December,--and delights the whole neighborhood. The secret lies in the

fact that the owner knows how to plant for succession of bloom. The

ground is laid out this way.

[Illustration: PLAN FOR A SMALL BACK YARD]

If you can have only a single flower bed, however, try to get it in a

sunny, protected spot, preferably facing south, where the cold winds of

early spring and late fall will do the least damage. Make a list of the

flowers that like such conditions,--and most of them do,--and then pick

out those you prefer, writing after each name the time that it blooms.

Be sure to select some of each of the early spring, late spring, summer,

early fall, and late fall, so that you will have flowers to enjoy the

whole season through.

SUCCESSION OF BLOOM

For example, you can choose first from the crocus, snowdrop, scilla, the

hardy candytuft that rivals the snow for whiteness, and the tiny

creeping phlox that will carpet your bed with pink; next, from the

daffodil, narcissus and jonquil groups, with the tulips,--all of which

must be set out in the fall for bloom in April and May: then the iris in

May and June. Sweet alyssum, nasturtiums, corn flowers, Shirley poppies

and cosmos (all annuals), you can count on blooming around New York from

July to black frost; dahlias from August to black frost, and monthly

roses the entire summer,--with a tidal wave in June. (I know, for I have

seen them all, over and over again.)

Many of the annuals can be started indoors, or in a glass-covered box

outside. Then when the early flowering bulbs have faded, you can turn

their green tops under the ground, first to allow the sap to run back

into the bulb (the storehouse for next year), and next to decay and

fertilize the soil. The annual seedlings can then be placed right on

top! You thus avoid bare, ugly spots, and keep your garden lovely.

Dahlias planted out about the first of June will bloom from early fall

until cold weather sets in; and certain roses, like the Mrs. John Laing

and all of the hybrid teas, will flower nearly as late. In fact, in the

famous rose garden of Jackson Park, Chicago, as well as in private

grounds around New York, I have seen roses blooming in December.

You hardly need be afraid of crowding, either, if you will be particular

to keep out the weeds, and occasionally work into the soil some

bone-meal for fertilizer. Water in dry weather. This does not mean top

sprinkling, for that is decidedly injurious. When the ground is dry,

soak it thoroughly.

A CITY GARDEN

[Illustration: AN ARTISTIC ARRANGEMENT OF A NARROW CITY LOT]

[Illustration: FIRST WORK IN THE SPRING]

If you live in a city, you may be interested in a garden I have seen,

which ran along the side and rear end of a long, narrow lot. The tallest

flowers,--dahlias and hollyhocks,--were at the back of the bed, at the

extreme end, and although late in flowering, formed a beautiful green

background for the rest all summer. The first irregular section was

given up to the blues, and--planted with both annual and perennial

larkspur, and cornflowers,--kept the dining-table supplied with blossoms

to match the old blue china until the frost came.

Frost, by the way, you will find of two kinds,--hoar frost, which the

Psalmist so vividly described when he said, "He scattereth the hoarfrost

like ashes," and which injures only the tenderest flowers; and black

frost, which is of intense enough cold to freeze the sap within the

plant cells, so that when the sun's heat melts this frozen sap the

plant--leaf and stalk--wilts down and turns black. Therefore, both in

the early spring and the late fall, you must watch out for Jack,

whichever garb he dons, and give your tender plants some nighty

covering.

A LITTLE BED FOR A LITTLE GIRL

If you can have only one small bed, however, you can get a lot of

pleasure out of it most of the season if you will carefully choose your

plants. Pansies set along the outer edge will blossom until mid-summer

if you keep them picked and watered every day; and verbenas, which have

the same harmonizing shades, you can count on blooming until late in

the fall. They would be attractive in either of the following simple

designs:

[Illustration: FLOWERS THAT WILL BLOOM FROM EARLY SUMMER UNTIL FROST]

Candytuft for a border, with petunias in the center, is another

combination that should blossom from June until frost. Poppies and

cornflowers would also last all summer if you would keep out part of the

seed and sow a couple of times at intervals of several weeks. The

combinations of red and blue is very pretty, too. Sweet alyssum, with

red or pink geraniums, would be lovely all season. For an all yellow

bed, plant California poppies to bloom early in the border, and African

marigolds, or Tom Thumb nasturtiums to bloom in the center from July on

late into the fall. With any of the combinations suggested you could

gather flowers almost any time you pleased, for they are all profuse

bloomers.

WINDOW BOXES

If you are a little city child, and can have only a flower box in a

window or along a porch-rail, cheer up! There is still a chance for you

to have posies all the long hot days. After having your box filled with

good, rich soil on top of a layer of broken crockery or stones,--for

drainage, you know,--you can plant running nasturtiums along the edge

for a hanging vine. Inside of that plant a row of the blue lobelia, or

set in a few pansies already in bloom. Then you would have room for

still another row of taller plants,--say pink and white geraniums, with

a fern or two. Another pretty box could be made by putting Wandering Jew

or "inch plant" along the edge for the drooping vine, then blue ageratum

for your edging, with next a row of lovely pink begonias. As it takes a

number of weeks for any seeds to grow and come to flower, you might

better save your candy pennies and buy a few blooming plants from the

spring pedlar. They will gladden your heart while waiting.

All kinds of green add to these little boxes, and all the white flowers

soften and help to blend the bright colors. China asters, in white,

pink, and lavender, are lovely in a window box, and if started in

shallow trays or old pots early in the spring, can be transplanted

later. Then when your early flowers have seen their best days, you can

remove them, put in your asters, and have beauties all fall.

Gardening for Little Girls · 第 2 / 16 章