CHAPTER I. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

Produced by Martin Adamson, David Widger and Colin Choat

THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO, VOLUME I. (of II.)

By Alfred Russel Wallace

The land of the orang-utan, and the bird of paradise.

A narrative of travel, with sketches of man and nature.

To CHARLES DARWIN,

AUTHOR OF "THE ORIGIN OF SPECIES,"

I dedicate this book,

Not only as a token of personal esteem and friendship

But also

To express my deep admiration

For

His genius and his works.

Contents

PREFACE.

THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.

CHAPTER I. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

CHAPTER II. SINGAPORE.

CHAPTER III. MALACCA AND MOUNT OPHIR.

CHAPTER IV. BORNEO--THE ORANGUTAN.

CHAPTER V. BORNEO--JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR.

CHAPTER VI. BORNEO--THE DYAKS.

CHAPTER VII. JAVA.

CHAPTER VIII. SUMATRA.

CHAPTER IX. NATURAL HISTORY OF THE INDO-MALAY ISLANDS.

CHAPTER X. BALI AND LOMBOCK.

CHAPTER XI. LOMBOCK: MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE PEOPLE.

CHAPTER XII. LOMBOCK: HOW THE RAJAH TOOK THE CENSUS.

CHAPTER XIII. TIMOR.

CHAPTER XIV. THE NATURAL HISTORY OF THE TIMOR GROUP.

CHAPTER XV. CELEBES.

CHAPTER XVI. CELEBES.

CHAPTER XVII. CELEBES.

CHAPTER XVIII. NATURAL HISTORY OF CELEBES.

CHAPTER XIX. BANDA.

CHAPTER XX. AMBOYNA.

PREFACE.

My readers will naturally ask why I have delayed writing this book

for six years after my return; and I feel bound to give them full

satisfaction on this point.

When I reached England in the spring of 1862, I found myself surrounded

by a room full of packing cases containing the collections that I had,

from time to time, sent home for my private use. These comprised nearly

three thousand bird-skins of about one thousand species, at least twenty

thousand beetles and butterflies of about seven thousand species, and

some quadrupeds and land shells besides. A large proportion of these

I had not seen for years, and in my then weakened state of health, the

unpacking, sorting, and arranging of such a mass of specimens occupied a

long time.

I very soon decided that until I had done something towards naming and

describing the most important groups in my collection, and had worked

out some of the more interesting problems of variation and geographical

distribution (of which I had had glimpses while collecting them), I

would not attempt to publish my travels. Indeed, I could have printed

my notes and journals at once, leaving all reference to questions of

natural history for a future work; but, I felt that this would be as

unsatisfactory to myself as it would be disappointing to my friends, and

uninstructive to the public.

Since my return, up to this date, I have published eighteen papers

in the "Transactions" or "Proceedings of the Linnean Zoological and

Entomological Societies", describing or cataloguing portions of my

collections, along with twelve others in various scientific periodicals

on more general subjects connected with them.

Nearly two thousand of my Coleoptera, and many hundreds of my

butterflies, have been already described by various eminent naturalists,

British and foreign; but a much larger number remains undescribed. Among

those to whom science is most indebted for this laborious work, I must

name Mr. F. P. Pascoe, late President of the Entomological Society of

London, who had almost completed the classification and description

of my large collection of Longicorn beetles (now in his possession),

comprising more than a thousand species, of which at least nine hundred

were previously undescribed and new to European cabinets.

The remaining orders of insects, comprising probably more than two

thousand species, are in the collection of Mr. William Wilson Saunders,

who has caused the larger portion of them to be described by good

entomologists. The Hymenoptera alone amounted to more than nine hundred

species, among which were two hundred and eighty different kinds of

ants, of which two hundred were new.

The six years' delay in publishing my travels thus enables me to give

what I hope may be an interesting and instructive sketch of the main

results yet arrived at by the study of my collections; and as the

countries I have to describe are not much visited or written about, and

their social and physical conditions are not liable to rapid change, I

believe and hope that my readers will gain much more than they will

lose by not having read my book six years ago, and by this time perhaps

forgotten all about it.

I must now say a few words on the plan of my work.

My journeys to the various islands were regulated by the seasons and

the means of conveyance. I visited some islands two or three times at

distant intervals, and in some cases had to make the same voyage four

times over. A chronological arrangement would have puzzled my readers.

They would never have known where they were, and my frequent references

to the groups of islands, classed in accordance with the peculiarities

of their animal productions and of their human inhabitants, would have

been hardly intelligible. I have adopted, therefore, a geographical,

zoological, and ethnological arrangement, passing from island to island

in what seems the most natural succession, while I transgress the order

in which I myself visited them, as little as possible.

I divide the Archipelago into five groups of islands, as follows:

I. THE INDO-MALAY ISLANDS: comprising the Malay Peninsula and Singapore,

Borneo, Java, and Sumatra.

II. THE TIMOR GROUP: comprising the islands of Timor, Flores, Sumbawa,

and Lombock, with several smaller ones.

III. CELEBES: comprising also the Sula Islands and Bouton.

IV. THE MOLUCCAN GROUP: comprising Bouru, Ceram, Batchian, Gilolo,

and Morty; with the smaller islands of Ternate, Tidore, Makian, Kaióa,

Amboyna, Banda, Goram, and Matabello.

V. THE PAPUAN GROUP: comprising the great island of New Guinea, with

the Aru Islands, Mysol, Salwatty, Waigiou, and several others. The Ke

Islands are described with this group on account of their ethnology,

though zoologically and geographically they belong to the Moluccas.

The chapters relating to the separate islands of each of these groups

are followed by one on the Natural History of that group; and the work

may thus be divided into five parts, each treating one of the natural

divisions of the Archipelago.

The first chapter is an introductory one, on the Physical Geography of

the whole region; and the last is a general sketch of the races of man

in the Archipelago and the surrounding countries. With this explanation,

and a reference to the maps which illustrate the work, I trust that my

readers will always know where they are, and in what direction they are

going.

I am well aware that my book is far too small for the extent of the

subjects it touches upon. It is a mere sketch; but so far as it goes,

I have endeavoured to make it an accurate one. Almost the whole of the

narrative and descriptive portions were written on the spot, and

have had little more than verbal alterations. The chapters on Natural

History, as well as many passages in other parts of the work, have been

written in the hope of exciting an interest in the various questions

connected with the origin of species and their geographical

distribution. In some cases I have been able to explain my views in

detail; while in others, owing to the greater complexity of the subject,

I have thought it better to confine myself to a statement of the more

interesting facts of the problem, whose solution is to be found in the

principles developed by Mr. Darwin in his various works. The numerous

illustrations will, it is believed, add much to the interest and value

of the book. They have been made from my own sketches, from photographs,

or from specimens--and such, only subjects that would really illustrate

the narrative or the descriptions, have been chosen.

I have to thank Messrs. Walter and Henry Woodbury, whose acquaintance

I had the pleasure of making in Java, for a number of photographs of

scenery and of natives, which have been of the greatest assistance to

me. Mr. William Wilson Saunders has kindly allowed me to figure the

curious horned flies; and to Mr. Pascoe I am indebted for a loan of

two of the very rare Longicorns which appear in the plate of Bornean

beetles. All the other specimens figured are in my own collection.

As the main object of all my journeys was to obtain specimens of natural

history, both for my private collection and to supply duplicates to

museums and amateurs, I will give a general statement of the number of

specimens I collected, and which reached home in good condition. I must

premise that I generally employed one or two, and sometimes three Malay

servants to assist me; and for nearly half the time had the services of

an English lad, Charles Allen. I was just eight years away from England,

but as I travelled about fourteen thousand miles within the Archipelago,

and made sixty or seventy separate journeys, each involving some

preparation and loss of time, I do not think that more than six years

were really occupied in collecting.

I find that my Eastern collections amounted to:

310 specimens of Mammalia.

100 specimens of Reptiles.

8,050 specimens of Birds.

7,500 specimens of Shells.

13,100 specimens of Lepidoptera.

83,200 specimens of Coleoptera.

13,400 specimens of other Insects.

125,660 specimens of natural history in all.

It now only remains for me to thank all those friends to whom I am

indebted for assistance or information. My thanks are more especially

due to the Council of the Royal Geographical Society, through whose

valuable recommendations I obtained important aid from our own

Government and from that of Holland; and to Mr. William Wilson Saunders,

whose kind and liberal encouragement in the early portion of my journey

was of great service to me. I am also greatly indebted to Mr. Samuel

Stevens (who acted as my agent), both for the care he took of my

collections, and for the untiring assiduity with which he kept me

supplied, both with useful information and with whatever necessaries I

required.

I trust that these, and all other friends who have been in any way

interested in my travels and collections, may derive from the perusal of

my book, some faint reflexion of the pleasures I myself enjoyed amid the

scenes and objects it describes.

THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO.

CHAPTER I. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY.

From a look at a globe or a map of the Eastern hemisphere, we shall

perceive between Asia and Australia a number of large and small islands

forming a connected group distinct from those great masses of land, and

having little connection with either of them. Situated upon the Equator,

and bathed by the tepid water of the great tropical oceans, this region

enjoys a climate more uniformly hot and moist than almost any other part

of the globe, and teems with natural productions which are elsewhere

unknown. The richest of fruits and the most precious of spices are

Indigenous here. It produces the giant flowers of the Rafflesia, the

great green-winged Ornithoptera (princes among the butterfly tribes),

the man-like Orangutan, and the gorgeous Birds of Paradise. It is

inhabited by a peculiar and interesting race of mankind--the Malay,

found nowhere beyond the limits of this insular tract, which has hence

been named the Malay Archipelago.

To the ordinary Englishman this is perhaps the least known part of the

globe. Our possessions in it are few and scanty; scarcely any of our

travellers go to explore it; and in many collections of maps it is

almost ignored, being divided between Asia and the Pacific Islands. It

thus happens that few persons realize that, as a whole, it is comparable

with the primary divisions of the globe, and that some of its separate

islands are larger than France or the Austrian Empire. The traveller,

however, soon acquires different ideas. He sails for days or even weeks

along the shores of one of these great islands, often so great that its

inhabitants believe it to be a vast continent. He finds that voyages

among these islands are commonly reckoned by weeks and months, and that

their several inhabitants are often as little known to each other as are

the native races of the northern to those of the southern continent of

America. He soon comes to look upon this region as one apart from the

rest of the world, with its own races of men and its own aspects of

nature; with its own ideas, feelings, customs, and modes of speech, and

with a climate, vegetation, and animated life altogether peculiar to

itself.

From many points of view these islands form one compact geographical

whole, and as such they have always been treated by travellers and men

of science; but, a more careful and detailed study of them under various

aspects reveals the unexpected fact that they are divisible into two

portions nearly equal in extent which differ widely in their natural

products, and really form two parts of the primary divisions of the

earth. I have been able to prove this in considerable detail by

my observations on the natural history of the various parts of the

Archipelago; and, as in the description of my travels and residence in

the several islands I shall have to refer continually to this view, and

adduce facts in support of it, I have thought it advisable to commence

with a general sketch of the main features of the Malayan region as will

render the facts hereafter brought forward more interesting, and their

bearing upon the general question more easily understood. I proceed,

therefore, to sketch the limits and extent of the Archipelago, and to

point out the more striking features of its geology, physical geography,

vegetation, and animal life.

Definition and Boundaries.--For reasons which depend mainly on the

distribution of animal life, I consider the Malay Archipelago to include

the Malay Peninsula as far as Tenasserim and the Nicobar Islands on the

west, the Philippines on the north, and the Solomon Islands, beyond New

Guinea, on the east. All the great islands included within these limits

are connected together by innumerable smaller ones, so that no one

of them seems to be distinctly separated from the rest. With but few

exceptions all enjoy an uniform and very similar climate, and are

covered with a luxuriant forest vegetation. Whether we study their form

and distribution on maps, or actually travel from island to island, our

first impression will be that they form a connected whole, all the parts

of which are intimately related to each other.

Extent of the Archipelago and Islands.--The Malay Archipelago extends

for more than 4,000 miles in length from east to west, and is about

1,300 in breadth from north to south. It would stretch over an expanse

equal to that of all Europe from the extreme west far into Central Asia,

or would cover the widest parts of South America, and extend far beyond

the land into the Pacific and Atlantic oceans. It includes three islands

larger than Great Britain; and in one of them, Borneo, the whole of the

British Isles might be set down, and would be surrounded by a sea of

forests. New Guinea, though less compact in shape, is probably larger

than Borneo. Sumatra is about equal in extent to Great Britain; Java,

Luzon, and Celebes are each about the size of Ireland. Eighteen more

islands are, on the average, as large as Jamaica; more than a hundred

are as large as the Isle of Wight; while the isles and islets of smaller

size are innumerable.

The absolute extent of land in the Archipelago is not greater than that

contained by Western Europe from Hungary to Spain; but, owing to the

manner in which the land is broken up and divided, the variety of its

productions is rather in proportion to the immense surface over which

the islands are spread, than to the quantity of land which they contain.

Geological Contrasts.--One of the chief volcanic belts upon the globe

passes through the Archipelago, and produces a striking contrast in the

scenery of the volcanic and non-volcanic islands. A curving line, marked

out by scores of active, and hundreds of extinct, volcanoes may be

traced through the whole length of Sumatra and Java, and thence by the

islands of Bali, Lombock, Sumbawa, Flores, the Serwatty Islands, Banda,

Amboyna, Batchian, Makian, Tidore, Ternate, and Gilolo, to Morty Island.

Here there is a slight but well-marked break, or shift, of about 200

miles to the westward, where the volcanic belt begins again in North

Celebes, and passes by Siau and Sanguir to the Philippine Islands along

the eastern side of which it continues, in a curving line, to their

northern extremity. From the extreme eastern bend of this belt at Banda,

we pass onwards for 1,000 miles over a non-volcanic district to the

volcanoes observed by Dampier, in 1699, on the north-eastern coast

of New Guinea, and can there trace another volcanic belt through New

Britain, New Ireland, and the Solomon Islands, to the eastern limits of

the Archipelago.

In the whole region occupied by this vast line of volcanoes, and for a

considerable breadth on each side of it, earthquakes are of continual

recurrence, slight shocks being felt at intervals of every few weeks or

months, while more severe ones, shaking down whole villages, and doing

more or less injury to life and property, are sure to happen, in one

part or another of this district, almost every year. On many of the

islands the years of the great earthquakes form the chronological

epochs of the native inhabitants, by the aid of which the ages of their

children are remembered, and the dates of many important events are

determined.

I can only briefly allude to the many fearful eruptions that have taken

place in this region. In the amount of injury to life and property, and

in the magnitude of their effects, they have not been surpassed by

any upon record. Forty villages were destroyed by the eruption of

Papandayang in Java, in 1772, when the whole mountain was blown up by

repeated explosions, and a large lake left in its place. By the great

eruption of Tomboro in Sumbawa, in 1815, 12,000 people were destroyed,

and the ashes darkened the air and fell thickly upon the earth and sea

for 300 miles around. Even quite recently, since I left the country, a

mountain which had been quiescent for more than 200 years suddenly burst

into activity. The island of Makian, one of the Moluccas, was rent

open in 1646 by a violent eruption which left a huge chasm on one side,

extending into the heart of the mountain. It was, when I last visited

it in 1860, clothed with vegetation to the summit, and contained twelve

populous Malay villages. On the 29th of December, 1862, after 215 years

of perfect inaction, it again suddenly burst forth, blowing up and

completely altering the appearance of the mountain, destroying the

greater part of the inhabitants, and sending forth such volumes of ashes

as to darken the air at Ternate, forty miles off, and to almost entirely

destroy the growing crops on that and the surrounding islands.

The island of Java contains more volcanoes, active and extinct, than

any other known district of equal extent. They are about forty-five in

number, and many of them exhibit most beautiful examples of the volcanic

cone on a large scale, single or double, with entire or truncated

summits, and averaging 10,000 feet high.

It is now well ascertained that almost all volcanoes have been slowly

built up by the accumulation of matter--mud, ashes, and lava--ejected

by themselves. The openings or craters, however, frequently shift their

position, so that a country may be covered with a more or less irregular

series of hills in chains and masses, only here and there rising into

lofty cones, and yet the whole may be produced by true volcanic action.

In this manner the greater part of Java has been formed. There has been

some elevation, especially on the south coast, where extensive cliffs

of coral limestone are found; and there may be a substratum of older

stratified rocks; but still essentially Java is volcanic, and that noble

and fertile island--the very garden of the East, and perhaps upon the

whole the richest, the best cultivated, and the best governed tropical

island in the world--owes its very existence to the same intense

volcanic activity which still occasionally devastates its surface.

The great island of Sumatra exhibits, in proportion to its extent, a

much smaller number of volcanoes, and a considerable portion of it has

probably a non-volcanic origin.

To the eastward, the long string of islands from Java, passing by the

north of Timor and away to Banda, are probably all due to volcanic

action. Timor itself consists of ancient stratified rocks, but is said

to have one volcano near its centre.

Going northward, Amboyna, a part of Bouru, and the west end of Ceram,

the north part of Gilolo, and all the small islands around it, the

northern extremity of Celebes, and the islands of Siau and Sanguir, are

wholly volcanic. The Philippine Archipelago contains many active

and extinct volcanoes, and has probably been reduced to its present

fragmentary condition by subsidences attending on volcanic action.

All along this great line of volcanoes are to be found more or less

palpable signs of upheaval and depression of land. The range of islands

south of Sumatra, a part of the south coast of Java and of the islands

east of it, the west and east end of Timor, portions of all the

Moluccas, the Ke and Aru Islands, Waigiou, and the whole south and east

of Gilolo, consist in a great measure of upraised coral-rock, exactly

corresponding to that now forming in the adjacent seas. In many places

I have observed the unaltered surfaces of the elevated reefs, with great

masses of coral standing up in their natural position, and hundreds of

shells so fresh-looking that it was hard to believe that they had

been more than a few years out of the water; and, in fact, it is very

probable that such changes have occurred within a few centuries.

The united lengths of these volcanic belts is about ninety degrees,

or one-fourth of the entire circumference of the globe. Their width is

about fifty miles; but, for a space of two hundred miles on each side

of them, evidences of subterranean action are to be found in recently

elevated coral-rock, or in barrier coral-reefs, indicating recent

submergence. In the very centre or focus of the great curve of volcanoes

is placed the large island of Borneo, in which no sign of recent

volcanic action has yet been observed, and where earthquakes, so

characteristic of the surrounding regions, are entirely unknown. The

equally large island of New Guinea occupies another quiescent area,

on which no sign of volcanic action has yet been discovered. With the

exception of the eastern end of its northern peninsula, the large and

curiously-shaped island of Celebes is also entirely free from volcanoes;

and there is some reason to believe that the volcanic portion has once

formed a separate island. The Malay Peninsula is also non-volcanic.

The first and most obvious division of the Archipelago would therefore

be into quiescent and volcanic regions, and it might, perhaps, be

expected that such a division would correspond to some differences in

the character of the vegetation and the forms of life. This is the case,

however, to a very limited extent; and we shall presently see that,

although this development of subterranean fires is on so vast a

scale--has piled up chains of mountains ten or twelve thousand feet

high--has broken up continents and raised up islands from the ocean--yet

it has all the character of a recent action which has not yet succeeded

in obliterating the traces of a more ancient distribution of land and

water.

Contrasts of Vegetation.--Placed immediately upon the Equator and

surrounded by extensive oceans, it is not surprising that the various

islands of the Archipelago should be almost always clothed with a forest

vegetation from the level of the sea to the summits of the loftiest

mountains. This is the general rule. Sumatra, New Guinea, Borneo, the

Philippines and the Moluccas, and the uncultivated parts of Java and

Celebes, are all forest countries, except a few small and unimportant

tracts, due perhaps, in some cases, to ancient cultivation or accidental

fires. To this, however, there is one important exception in the island

of Timor and all the smaller islands around it, in which there is

absolutely no forest such as exists in the other islands, and this

character extends in a lesser degree to Flores, Sumbawa, Lombock, and

Bali.

In Timor the most common trees are Eucalypti of several species, also

characteristic of Australia, with sandalwood, acacia, and other sorts

in less abundance. These are scattered over the country more or less

thickly, but, never so as to deserve the name of a forest. Coarse

and scanty grasses grow beneath them on the more barren hills, and a

luxuriant herbage in the moister localities. In the islands between

Timor and Java there is often a more thickly wooded country abounding

in thorny and prickly trees. These seldom reach any great height, and

during the force of the dry season they almost completely lose

their leaves, allowing the ground beneath them to be parched up, and

contrasting strongly with the damp, gloomy, ever-verdant forests of the

other islands. This peculiar character, which extends in a less degree

to the southern peninsula of Celebes and the east end of Java, is most

probably owing to the proximity of Australia. The south-east monsoon,

which lasts for about two-thirds of the year (from March to November),

blowing over the northern parts of that country, produces a degree of

heat and dryness which assimilates the vegetation and physical aspect of

the adjacent islands to its own. A little further eastward in Timor and

the Ke Islands, a moister climate prevails; the southeast winds blowing

from the Pacific through Torres Straits and over the damp forests of New

Guinea, and as a consequence, every rocky islet is clothed with verdure

to its very summit. Further west again, as the same dry winds blow

over a wider and wider extent of ocean, they have time to absorb fresh

moisture, and we accordingly find the island of Java possessing a less

and less arid climate, until in the extreme west near Batavia, rain

occurs more or less all the year round, and the mountains are everywhere

clothed with forests of unexampled luxuriance.

Contrasts in Depth of Sea.--It was first pointed out by Mr. George

Windsor Earl, in a paper read before the Royal Geographical Society

in 1845, and subsequently in a pamphlet "On the Physical Geography

of South-Eastern Asia and Australia", dated 1855, that a shallow sea

connected the great islands of Sumatra, Java, and Borneo with the

Asiatic continent, with which their natural productions generally

agreed; while a similar shallow sea connected New Guinea and some of the

adjacent islands to Australia, all being characterised by the presence

of marsupials.

We have here a clue to the most radical contrast in the Archipelago, and

by following it out in detail I have arrived at the conclusion that

we can draw a line among the islands, which shall so divide them that

one-half shall truly belong to Asia, while the other shall no less

certainly be allied to Australia. I term these respectively the

Indo-Malayan and the Austro-Malayan divisions of the Archipelago.

On referring to pages 12, 13, and 36 of Mr. Earl's pamphlet, it will be

seen that he maintains the former connection of Asia and Australia as

an important part of his view; whereas, I dwell mainly on their

long continued separation. Notwithstanding this and other important

differences between us, to him undoubtedly belongs the merit of first

indicating the division of the Archipelago into an Australian and an

Asiatic region, which it has been my good fortune to establish by more

detailed observations.

Contrasts in Natural Productions.--To understand the importance of this

class of facts, and its bearing upon the former distribution of land and

sea, it is necessary to consider the results arrived at by geologists

and naturalists in other parts of the world.

It is now generally admitted that the present distribution of living

things on the surface of the earth is mainly the result of the last

series of changes that it has undergone. Geology teaches us that

the surface of the land, and the distribution of land and water, is

everywhere slowly changing. It further teaches us that the forms of life

which inhabit that surface have, during every period of which we possess

any record, been also slowly changing.

It is not now necessary to say anything about how either of those

changes took place; as to that, opinions may differ; but as to the fact

that the changes themselves have occurred, from the earliest geological

ages down to the present day, and are still going on, there is no

difference of opinion. Every successive stratum of sedimentary rock,

sand, or gravel, is a proof that changes of level have taken place; and

the different species of animals and plants, whose remains are found

in these deposits, prove that corresponding changes did occur in the

organic world.

Taking, therefore, these two series of changes for granted, most of the

present peculiarities and anomalies in the distribution of species may

be directly traced to them. In our own islands, with a very few trifling

exceptions, every quadruped, bird, reptile, insect, and plant, is found

also on the adjacent continent. In the small islands of Sardinia and

Corsica, there are some quadrupeds and insects, and many plants, quite

peculiar. In Ceylon, more closely connected to India than Britain is to

Europe, many animals and plants are different from those found in India,

and peculiar to the island. In the Galapagos Islands, almost every

indigenous living thing is peculiar to them, though closely resembling

other kinds found in the nearest parts of the American continent.

Most naturalists now admit that these facts can only be explained by

the greater or less lapse of time since the islands were upraised from

beneath the ocean, or were separated from the nearest land; and this

will be generally (though not always) indicated by the depth of the

intervening sea. The enormous thickness of many marine deposits through

wide areas shows that subsidence has often continued (with intermitting

periods of repose) during epochs of immense duration. The depth of sea

produced by such subsidence will therefore generally be a measure of

time; and in like manner, the change which organic forms have undergone

is a measure of time. When we make proper allowance for the continued

introduction of new animals and plants from surrounding countries by

those natural means of dispersal which have been so well explained by

Sir Charles Lyell and Mr. Darwin, it is remarkable how closely these two

measures correspond. Britain is separated from the continent by a very

shallow sea, and only in a very few cases have our animals or plants

begun to show a difference from the corresponding continental species.

Corsica and Sardinia, divided from Italy by a much deeper sea, present

a much greater difference in their organic forms. Cuba, separated from

Yucatan by a wider and deeper strait, differs more markedly, so that

most of its productions are of distinct and peculiar species; while

Madagascar, divided from Africa by a deep channel three hundred miles

wide, possesses so many peculiar features as to indicate separation at

a very remote antiquity, or even to render it doubtful whether the two

countries have ever been absolutely united.

Returning now to the Malay Archipelago, we find that all the wide

expanse of sea which divides Java, Sumatra, and Borneo from each other,

and from Malacca and Siam, is so shallow that ships can anchor in any

part of it, since it rarely exceeds forty fathoms in depth; and if we go

as far as the line of a hundred fathoms, we shall include the Philippine

Islands and Bali, east of Java. If, therefore, these islands have

been separated from each other and the continent by subsidence of the

intervening tracts of land, we should conclude that the separation

has been comparatively recent, since the depth to which the land has

subsided is so small. It is also to be remarked that the great chain

of active volcanoes in Sumatra and Java furnishes us with a sufficient

cause for such subsidence, since the enormous masses of matter they have

thrown out would take away the foundations of the surrounding district;

and this may be the true explanation of the often-noticed fact that

volcanoes and volcanic chains are always near the sea. The subsidence

they produce around them will, in time, make a sea, if one does not

already exist.

But, it is when we examine the zoology of these countries that we find

what we most require--evidence of a very striking character that these

great islands must have once formed a part of the continent, and could

only have been separated at a very recent geological epoch. The elephant

and tapir of Sumatra and Borneo, the rhinoceros of Sumatra and the

allied species of Java, the wild cattle of Borneo and the kind long

supposed to be peculiar to Java, are now all known to inhabit some part

or other of Southern Asia. None of these large animals could possibly

have passed over the arms of the sea which now separate these countries,

and their presence plainly indicates that a land communication must have

existed since the origin of the species. Among the smaller mammals, a

considerable portion are common to each island and the continent; but

the vast physical changes that must have occurred during the breaking up

and subsidence of such extensive regions have led to the extinction of

some in one or more of the islands, and in some cases there seems also

to have been time for a change of species to have taken place. Birds

and insects illustrate the same view, for every family and almost every

genus of these groups found in any of the islands occurs also on the

Asiatic continent, and in a great number of cases the species are

exactly identical. Birds offer us one of the best means of determining

the law of distribution; for though at first sight it would appear that

the watery boundaries which keep out the land quadrupeds could be easily

passed over by birds, yet practically it is not so; for if we leave out

the aquatic tribes which are pre-eminently wanderers, it is found that

the others (and especially the Passeres, or true perching-birds, which

form the vast majority) are generally as strictly limited by straits and

arms of the sea as are quadrupeds themselves. As an instance, among the

islands of which I am now speaking, it is a remarkable fact that Java

possesses numerous birds which never pass over to Sumatra, though they

are separated by a strait only fifteen miles wide, and with islands in

mid-channel. Java, in fact, possesses more birds and insects peculiar

to itself than either Sumatra or Borneo, and this would indicate that it

was earliest separated from the continent; next in organic individuality

is Borneo, while Sumatra is so nearly identical in all its animal forms

with the peninsula of Malacca, that we may safely conclude it to have

been the most recently dismembered island.

The general result therefore, at which we arrive, is that the great

islands of Java, Sumatra, and Borneo resemble in their natural

productions the adjacent parts of the continent, almost as much as such

widely-separated districts could be expected to do even if they still

formed a part of Asia; and this close resemblance, joined with the fact

of the wide extent of sea which separates them being so uniformly and

remarkably shallow, and lastly, the existence of the extensive range of

volcanoes in Sumatra and Java, which have poured out vast quantities

of subterranean matter and have built up extensive plateaux and lofty

mountain ranges, thus furnishing a vera causa for a parallel line of

subsidence--all lead irresistibly to the conclusion that at a very

recent geological epoch, the continent of Asia extended far beyond its

present limits in a south-easterly direction, including the islands of

Java, Sumatra, and Borneo, and probably reaching as far as the present

100-fathom line of soundings.

The Philippine Islands agree in many respects with Asia and the other

islands, but present some anomalies, which seem to indicate that they

were separated at an earlier period, and have since been subject to many

revolutions in their physical geography.

Turning our attention now to the remaining portion of the Archipelago,

we shall find that all the islands from Celebes and Lombock eastward

exhibit almost as close a resemblance to Australia and New Guinea as

the Western Islands do to Asia. It is well known that the natural

productions of Australia differ from those of Asia more than those of

any of the four ancient quarters of the world differ from each other.

Australia, in fact, stands alone: it possesses no apes or monkeys, no

cats or tigers, wolves, bears, or hyenas; no deer or antelopes, sheep or

oxen; no elephant, horse, squirrel, or rabbit; none, in short, of those

familiar types of quadruped which are met with in every other part

of the world. Instead of these, it has Marsupials only: kangaroos and

opossums; wombats and the duckbilled Platypus. In birds it is almost as

peculiar. It has no woodpeckers and no pheasants--families which

exist in every other part of the world; but instead of them it has the

mound-making brush-turkeys, the honeysuckers, the cockatoos, and the

brush-tongued lories, which are found nowhere else upon the globe. All

these striking peculiarities are found also in those islands which form

the Austro-Malayan division of the Archipelago.

The great contrast between the two divisions of the Archipelago is

nowhere so abruptly exhibited as on passing from the island of Bali to

that of Lombock, where the two regions are in closest proximity. In Bali

we have barbets, fruit-thrushes, and woodpeckers; on passing over to

Lombock these are seen no more, but we have abundance of cockatoos,

honeysuckers, and brush-turkeys, which are equally unknown in Bali, or

any island further west. [I was informed, however, that there were a

few cockatoos at one spot on the west of Bali, showing that the

intermingling of the productions of these islands is now going on.] The

strait is here fifteen miles wide, so that we may pass in two hours from

one great division of the earth to another, differing as essentially in

their animal life as Europe does from America. If we travel from Java

or Borneo to Celebes or the Moluccas, the difference is still more

striking. In the first, the forests abound in monkeys of many kinds,

wild cats, deer, civets, and otters, and numerous varieties of squirrels

are constantly met with. In the latter none of these occur; but the

prehensile-tailed Cuscus is almost the only terrestrial mammal seen,

except wild pigs, which are found in all the islands, and deer (which

have probably been recently introduced) in Celebes and the Moluccas. The

birds which are most abundant in the Western Islands are woodpeckers,

barbets, trogons, fruit-thrushes, and leaf-thrushes; they are seen

daily, and form the great ornithological features of the country. In

the Eastern Islands these are absolutely unknown, honeysuckers and small

lories being the most common birds, so that the naturalist feels himself

in a new world, and can hardly realize that he has passed from the one

region to the other in a few days, without ever being out of sight of

land.

The inference that we must draw from these facts is, undoubtedly, that

the whole of the islands eastwards beyond Java and Borneo do essentially

form a part of a former Australian or Pacific continent, although some

of them may never have been actually joined to it. This continent must

have been broken up not only before the Western Islands were separated

from Asia, but probably before the extreme southeastern portion of Asia

was raised above the waters of the ocean; for a great part of the

land of Borneo and Java is known to be geologically of quite recent

formation, while the very great difference of species, and in many cases

of genera also, between the productions of the Eastern Malay Islands and

Australia, as well as the great depth of the sea now separating them,

all point to a comparatively long period of isolation.

It is interesting to observe among the islands themselves how a shallow

sea always intimates a recent land connexion. The Aru Islands, Mysol,

and Waigiou, as well as Jobie, agree with New Guinea in their species of

mammalia and birds much more closely than they do with the Moluccas,

and we find that they are all united to New Guinea by a shallow sea.

In fact, the 100-fathom line round New Guinea marks out accurately the

range of the true Paradise birds.

It is further to be noted--and this is a very interesting point in

connection with theories of the dependence of special forms of life

on external conditions--that this division of the Archipelago into

two regions characterised by a striking diversity in their natural

productions does not in any way correspond to the main physical or

climatal divisions of the surface. The great volcanic chain runs through

both parts, and appears to produce no effect in assimilating their

productions. Borneo closely resembles New Guinea not only in its vast

size and its freedom from volcanoes, but in its variety of geological

structure, its uniformity of climate, and the general aspect of the

forest vegetation that clothes its surface. The Moluccas are the

counterpart of the Philippines in their volcanic structure, their

extreme fertility, their luxuriant forests, and their frequent

earthquakes; and Bali with the east end of Java has a climate almost

as dry and a soil almost as arid as that of Timor. Yet between these

corresponding groups of islands, constructed as it were after the same

pattern, subjected to the same climate, and bathed by the same oceans,

there exists the greatest possible contrast when we compare their animal

productions. Nowhere does the ancient doctrine--that differences

or similarities in the various forms of life that inhabit different

countries are due to corresponding physical differences or similarities

in the countries themselves--meet with so direct and palpable a

contradiction. Borneo and New Guinea, as alike physically as two

distinct countries can be, are zoologically wide as the poles asunder;

while Australia, with its dry winds, its open plains, its stony deserts,

and its temperate climate, yet produces birds and quadrupeds which are

closely related to those inhabiting the hot damp luxuriant forests,

which everywhere clothe the plains and mountains of New Guinea.

In order to illustrate more clearly the means by which I suppose this

great contrast has been brought about, let us consider what would occur

if two strongly contrasted divisions of the earth were, by natural

means, brought into proximity. No two parts of the world differ so

radically in their productions as Asia and Australia, but the difference

between Africa and South America is also very great, and these two

regions will well serve to illustrate the question we are considering.

On the one side we have baboons, lions, elephants, buffaloes, and

giraffes; on the other spider-monkeys, pumas, tapirs, anteaters,

and sloths; while among birds, the hornbills, turacos, orioles, and

honeysuckers of Africa contrast strongly with the toucans, macaws,

chatterers, and hummingbirds of America.

Now let us endeavour to imagine (what it is very probable may occur in

future ages) that a slow upheaval of the bed of the Atlantic should take

place, while at the same time earthquake-shocks and volcanic action on

the land should cause increased volumes of sediment to be poured down

by the rivers, so that the two continents should gradually spread out by

the addition of newly-formed lands, and thus reduce the Atlantic which

now separates them, to an arm of the sea a few hundred miles wide. At

the same time we may suppose islands to be upheaved in mid-channel; and,

as the subterranean forces varied in intensity, and shifted their points

of greatest action, these islands would sometimes become connected with

the land on one side or other of the strait, and at other times again be

separated from it. Several islands would at one time be joined together,

at another would be broken up again, until at last, after many long ages

of such intermittent action, we might have an irregular archipelago

of islands filling up the ocean channel of the Atlantic, in whose

appearance and arrangement we could discover nothing to tell us which

had been connected with Africa and which with America. The animals and

plants inhabiting these islands would, however, certainly reveal this

portion of their former history. On those islands which had ever formed

a part of the South American continent, we should be sure to find such

common birds as chatterers and toucans and hummingbirds, and some of the

peculiar American quadrupeds; while on those which had been separated

from Africa, hornbills, orioles, and honeysuckers would as certainly be

found. Some portion of the upraised land might at different times have

had a temporary connection with both continents, and would then contain

a certain amount of mixture in its living inhabitants. Such seems to

have been the case with the islands of Celebes and the Philippines.

Other islands, again, though in such close proximity as Bali and

Lombock, might each exhibit an almost unmixed sample of the productions

of the continents of which they had directly or indirectly once formed a

part.

In the Malay Archipelago we have, I believe, a case exactly parallel

to that which I have here supposed. We have indications of a vast

continent, with a peculiar fauna and flora having been gradually and

irregularly broken up; the island of Celebes probably marking its

furthest westward extension, beyond which was a wide ocean. At the

same time Asia appears to have been extending its limits in a southeast

direction, first in an unbroken mass, then separated into islands as

we now see it, and almost coming into actual contact with the scattered

fragments of the great southern land.

From this outline of the subject, it will be evident how important an

adjunct Natural History is to Geology; not only in interpreting

the fragments of extinct animals found in the earth's crust, but in

determining past changes in the surface which have left no geological

record. It is certainly a wonderful and unexpected fact that an accurate

knowledge of the distribution of birds and insects should enable us to

map out lands and continents which disappeared beneath the ocean long

before the earliest traditions of the human race. Wherever the geologist

can explore the earth's surface, he can read much of its past history,

and can determine approximately its latest movements above and below the

sea-level; but wherever oceans and seas now extend, he can do nothing

but speculate on the very limited data afforded by the depth of the

waters. Here the naturalist steps in, and enables him to fill up this

great gap in the past history of the earth.

One of the chief objects of my travels was to obtain evidence of this

nature; and my search after such evidence has been rewarded by great

success, so that I have been able to trace out with some probability the

past changes which one of the most interesting parts of the earth has

undergone. It may be thought that the facts and generalizations here

given would have been more appropriately placed at the end rather than

at the beginning of a narrative of the travels which supplied the facts.

In some cases this might be so, but I have found it impossible to give

such an account as I desire of the natural history of the numerous

islands and groups of islands in the Archipelago, without constant

reference to these generalizations which add so much to their interest.

Having given this general sketch of the subject, I shall be able to show

how the same principles can be applied to the individual islands of a

group, as to the whole Archipelago; and thereby make my account of the

many new and curious animals which inhabit them both, more interesting

and more instructive than if treated as mere isolated facts.

Contrasts of Races.--Before I had arrived at the conviction that the

eastern and western halves of the Archipelago belonged to distinct

primary regions of the earth, I had been led to group the natives of the

Archipelago under two radically distinct races. In this I differed from

most ethnologists who had before written on the subject; for it had

been the almost universal custom to follow William von Humboldt and

Pritchard, in classing all the Oceanic races as modifications of one

type. Observation soon showed me, however, that Malays and Papuans

differed radically in every physical, mental, and moral character; and

more detailed research, continued for eight years, satisfied me that

under these two forms, as types, the whole of the peoples of the Malay

Archipelago and Polynesia could be classified. On drawing the line which

separates these races, it is found to come near to that which divides

the zoological regions, but somewhat eastward of it; a circumstance

which appears to me very significant of the same causes having

influenced the distribution of mankind that have determined the range of

other animal forms.

The reason why exactly the same line does not limit both is sufficiently

intelligible. Man has means of traversing the sea which animals do not

possess; and a superior race has power to press out or assimilate an

inferior one. The maritime enterprise and higher civilization of the

Malay races have enabled them to overrun a portion of the adjacent

region, in which they have entirely supplanted the indigenous

inhabitants if it ever possessed any; and to spread much of their

language, their domestic animals, and their customs far over the

Pacific, into islands where they have but slightly, or not at all,

modified the physical or moral characteristics of the people.

I believe, therefore, that all the peoples of the various islands can be

grouped either with the Malays or the Papuans; and that these two have

no traceable affinity to each other. I believe, further, that all the

races east of the line I have drawn have more affinity for each other

than they have for any of the races west of that line; that, in fact,

the Asiatic races include the Malays, and all have a continental origin,

while the Pacific races, including all to the east of the former

(except perhaps some in the Northern Pacific), are derived, not from

any existing continent, but from lands which now exist or have recently

existed in the Pacific Ocean. These preliminary observations will enable

the reader better to apprehend the importance I attach to the details of

physical form or moral character, which I shall give in describing the

inhabitants of many of the islands.

The Malay Archipelago, Volume 1 The Land of the Orang-utan and the Bird of Paradise; A Narrative of Travel, with Studies of Man and Nature · 第 1 / 20 章