This very old market town, whose origin is said to date back to the end
of the 6th century, grew up around a monastery founded by St. Balderic,
son of Sigebert I., King of Austrasia.
It was below Montfaucon that Count Eudes, in June, 888 or 889, aided by
several nobles, including Marc de Doulcon, is said to have inflicted a
bloody defeat on the Normans. The Chronicler, Abbon le Courbe, tells
how, after the defeat of the Normans before Paris, Eudes, pursuing them
across Champagne and the Argonne, caught them up near Montfaucon. After
a terrific struggle the Normans were cut to pieces and 19,000 of them
were left on the battlefield. In 1081, Godefroy de Bouillon, Duke of
Basse-Lorraine, built a castle-fortress there, which, however, he
dismantled before leaving for the Crusade in 1096. Another castle was
subsequently erected on the same site. In 1349 the Flagellants, who as a
penance marched in procession, scourging themselves publicly, passed
through Montfaucon under the leadership of Gilles de Rodennack, Lord of
Chassepierre.
[Illustration: MONTFAUCON VILLAGE IN RUINS, WITH GERMAN OBSERVATION-POST
IN FOREGROUND, ON THE RIGHT]
During the Hundred Years’ War the district was frequently ravaged by
bands of robbers, in consequence of which Charles V. authorised the
inhabitants to build a wall round the town. In 1387 the town suffered
during the war between the burgesses of Verdun and three neighbouring
lords. During the religious wars the town was taken and burned (1552).
In 1591, Henri IV. razed the castle, of which not a trace remains.
In 1636, Montfaucon was once again ravaged by war, the enemy burning the
whole town, one house only being left standing. The Parish Church of St.
Laurent caught fire, and a number of the inhabitants who had taken
refuge there perished in the flames.
[Illustration: MONTFAUCON. OBSERVATION-POST ON ROADSIDE NEAR CHURCH
_Overlooking Montfaucon Wood, Cheppy Wood, Hesse Forest, and Clermont
Argonne._]
On September 9, 1792, Montfaucon was occupied by Prussian troops under
Kalkreuth.
In 1914, after the battle of the Marne, the Crown Prince had his
headquarters there for a few days, before establishing himself at
Stenay. The French 40th Infantry Division, during the retreat at the end
of September, forced the Bavarians to fall back on the woods of
Montfaucon, but the Germans quickly consolidated their positions on the
ridge, from which it was impossible to dislodge them.
[Illustration: MONTFAUCON. RUINS OF MAIN STREET
_The Itinerary follows I.C. 4, on the right to Cierges._]
From the end of 1914 to 1918 they continued to improve the defence-works
of this naturally strong position, making it the centre of their
intermediate positions between the Hindenburg line and the
“Kriemhildestellung,” or second line of defence. It also provided them
with a splendid observation-post, from which to survey the whole of the
surrounding French lines. Another observation-post had been installed in
the church, from which the enemy could see Verdun, and this post played
a great part during the battle. The village, frequently pounded by the
French heavy batteries, was reduced to ruins.
It was retaken by the Americans on September 26-27, 1918, after
desperate fighting with the German 37th Division, but only when it had
been surrounded, and Septsarges, Nantillois and Ivoiry had fallen.
[Illustration: MONTFAUCON. FRANCO-AMERICAN OBSERVATION-POST IN THE
RUINS, NEAR THE CHURCH]
The site of Montfaucon is an unusual and striking one; unfortunately,
the town was almost entirely ruined.
_At the junction of the road from Malancourt, turn to the left, passing
shortly afterwards in front of_ a concrete observation-post (_photo, p.
79_). _Keep along the principal street as far as the fork, where take
the uphill street on the right, turning immediately again to the right,
and coming out at the top of the ridge near the ruins of the church._
Several observation-posts may be visited, including one inside the
church (_photo below_).
[Illustration: MONTFAUCON. RUINS OF THE CHURCH. GERMAN OBSERVATION-POST
ON THE LEFT]
The old Collegiate Church was surrounded by 17th century houses, built
on the site of the old cloister, and inhabited by the canons. Below this
part of the town several underground tunnels, since walled-up, were
made.
The porch and the vestibule of the church dated from the 14th century,
the other parts were rebuilt or restored in 1597 and 1781.
In the steeple a stone staircase of eighty steps led to the belfry,
whence wooden stairs ascended to a platform in the spire, in which six
openings gave a far-reaching view over the surrounding country. This
platform, 170 feet above the base of the church, had a total altitude of
about 1,240 feet. In the direction of Verdun the forts of Marre and
Dugny could be seen, and, still further away (about 25 miles), the
heights which dominate Souilly. To the south-west lie the plains of St.
Menehould, and on the west the plain and plateaux of Champagne. In the
same direction, in clear weather, the Fort of Berru, near Rheims, is
visible. The panorama further embraces the following: _on the
north-east_, the whole of the region of Grandpré; _on the north_,
Carignan and Montmédy; _on the east_, the heights of the Meuse, seven
miles away, shut in the horizon, hiding Damvillers and the Woëvre. From
the top of the ridge may be seen: _on the south_, the 1916 battlefield
of Verdun; _on the north_, the terrain of the offensive of September 26,
1918. Between the Meuse and the Aire, from Brieulles-sur-Meuse to
Grandpré, the line of villages, woods and hills, which, after being
fortified, formed the formidable German position known as the
“Kriemhildestellung,” should be noticed. Certain points in this line
were only carried in October, and even at the beginning of November,
1918. Several of them, like Hill 299 to the north-east of Cunel and
north-west of Brieulles, were taken, lost and retaken several times by
the Americans.
_Return by the Rue de l’Eglise to I.C. 4, which take to the right down
the hill. Half-way down, at the fork, take I.C. 4, on the right, to_
=Cierges= (_4 km. 500 from Montfaucon_).
From 1914 to 1918 the Germans had an aviation camp at Cierges. The camp
and station were frequently bombed by the Allied aviators. In September,
1918, during the first days of the American offensive, fires broke out
in the village, to which the Germans held on stubbornly. On the 28th,
they launched several counter-attacks, but at the beginning of October
were forced to abandon the village. On October 4, the capture of Gesnes
(through which the tourist passes on his way to Exermont) finally
cleared Cierges.
_On reaching the Rue de l’Eglise, turn along the first road on the left,
which, 1 km. 300 beyond Cierges, runs into G.C. 2 bis._
_Turn to the right and follow G.C. 2 bis for 1 km., then take the Chemin
Vicinal (local road) on the left--German dug-outs, 200 yards away on the
left--which leads to the interesting village of_ =Gesnes=, lying in a
little valley. Many of the houses were destroyed.
_The road passes in front of the church, then turns to the left, skirts_
a German cemetery, _then goes straight to_ =Exermont= (_8 km. 800 from
Cierges_). Numbers of German dug-outs, sometimes forming veritable
villages, are met with on the way.
[Illustration: CIERGES. RUINED CHURCH AND HOUSES IN RUE DE L’EGLISE]
The folklore of the district, like that of many villages in the Argonne
and the Ardennes, is rich in stories of fairies, demons and witches.
Near the well called Fontaine-St. Germain, about a kilometre north of
the village, is a place called “Ronde-de-Danses,” where the grass never
grows. Here, the fairies of the “Château d’Ariétal,” near the spring of
the same name, used to meet and dance all night.
[Illustration: GERMAN SHELTER AT FERME-AUX-BOIS, NEAR CIERGES.
AFTERWARDS POST OF COMMANDMENT OF THE 315TH AND 318TH R.A.C., 2ND
AMERICAN ARMY]
Exermont was retaken by the Americans on September 28 1918.
[Illustration: GESNES VILLAGE AND CHURCH, _seen coming from Cierges_]
_Beyond the church turn to the left and at the fork_, 300 _yards after
the last houses, take the left-hand road (I.C. 4). After crossing the
river and over Hill 183, the road cuts N. 46. passes over the river
Aire, then the railway (l.c.), and after joining the Apremont road,
enters_ =Châtel-Chéhéry= (_4 km. 300 from Exermont_).
This village, which suffered little (_photo, p._ 84), was abandoned by
the Germans without much resistance, on October 7, 1918. in the face of
the advance by the Americans, who had, however, encountered great
difficulty in capturing the outskirts.
Gérard de Melcy, one of the heroes of the siege of Sebastopol, was
buried in the cemetery which surrounds the church.
[Illustration: EXERMONT. GERMAN PRISONERS] During the Franco-American
offensive of September, 1918, the Americans found among the papers of
the German Town-Major the following document.
[Illustration: CHÂTEL-CHÉHÉRY VILLAGE AND CHURCH
_Behind the latter, I.C. 4 leading to Exermont._]
which throws light on the German methods of treating the inhabitants of
occupied districts:--
“33rd General Divisional Headquarters,
“10th May, 1916.
“We have absolutely no reason to be lenient with the French population.
[Illustration: ADVANCE POST ON HILL 240 AT MONTREFAGNE NORTH-WEST OF
EXERMONT]
I order a fresh examination of the taxable capacity of the inhabitants,
and no misplaced feeling of sympathy with the people of the district
must be allowed to affect that enquiry. It would be well to consider
whether, with this end in view, we might not occasionally imprison some
of the inhabitants.
“(Signed) Vollbrecht.”
_Pass in front of the church and keep straight on. Cross the Boulasson
Stream and follow the road past the foot of the promontory on which the_
=Château of Cornay= _used to stand_. This castle comprised several forts:
Camp-Crochet, Vieux-Château, Grand Bel, and Petit Bel, all separated by
deep trenches and connected by underground passages. A cross called
“Croix-de-Bayle” now stands on the site of the “Grand Bel.” There is a
tradition that this cross was erected to commemorate “the extinction of
heresy,” Protestants having been numerous in the district. The fortress
is said to have been destroyed during the Wars of the League.
[Illustration: CORNAY VILLAGE AND CHURCH
_I.C. 4 leading to Marcq._]
The pretty little village of =Cornay= (_photo above_) which _is soon
reached, is 2 km. from Châtel_.
Burned down by the troops of Charles-Quint in 1552, it was rebuilt
beside the ruins.
The church dates from the 12th century, but was frequently restored. The
last restoration dates from 1854, and is in harmony with the original
style of the building.
_Opposite Cornay, on the right bank of the Aire, is_ =Fléville=, which
possesses a fine 16th century château. This village was taken by the
Americans on October 4, 1918, whilst Cornay and Marcq, the next village,
were only evacuated by the Germans on October 9 and 10.
_Leave the Church of Cornay on the left and at the fork at the end of
the village, take the left-hand road_ (_I.C._ 20) _which crosses the
valley_ (traces of artillery emplacements). _At the first houses of_
=Marcq= _the road crosses that from St. Juvin._ _At the crossing there is
a_ large German cemetery.
[Illustration: CHEVIÈRES. BURNT DOWN BY THE GERMANS]
_Many of the houses at Marcq_ (_2 km. 800 from Cornay_) were destroyed.
_Pass through the village and keep straight on to_ =Chevières= (2 _km_.),
completely burned down by the Germans previous to their departure
(_photo above_).
_Two kilometres beyond Chevières the road crosses the railway (l.c.) and
runs into the Senuc road. Turn to the right and cross the Aire._
=Grandpré=, a pretty little town, many of whose houses have been
destroyed, _is next reached_ (_2 km. 900 from Chevières_).
[Illustration: B. CO. OF 303RD ENGINEERS (78TH INF. DIV.) BUILDING
BRIDGE OVER THE AIRE, DESTROYED THREE TIMES BY ENEMY ARTILLERY FIRE. _At
back_: GRANDPRÉ.]