an Early English east front. It is divided into three stories; the
lowest has three lancet windows of nearly equal height; the next tier
has five windows of the same shape, side by side, the centre one being
higher and those on the sides gradually lower; the third story, which
is within the gable, contains three lancet windows, not seen in the
Choir, but giving light to the space between the ceiling and the roof.
There are several niches for statues, but no figures; and the
spandrils of the window arches are relieved by quatrefoils and other
ornaments. The gable point is adorned with an ornamented cross, which
has been restored at the expense of Lady Mildred Hope; and a crocketed
pinnacle at the south-east corner has been given by A.J.B. Beresford
Hope, Esq. Rather more than a century ago this end was about two feet
out of the perpendicular, but was skilfully restored by Mr. Essex, the
architect.
The eastern faces of the aisles appear as wings to the end of the
Choir, and are flanked with double buttresses at the angles, upon
which are set larger pinnacles crocketed. The windows lighting the two
chapels at the end of the aisles were probably inserted when the
chapels were erected; that in the north aisle is set in the wall,
while that in the south aisle projects beyond the wall nearly to the
depth of the buttress.
The south side of the Choir is similar to the north, with the
exception before mentioned--the two western bays of Bishop Northwold's
work, in each of which the opening in the triforium is formed into two
arches of a style differing from the adjoining portion of the
building, but which have the appearance of originality. The walls of
the triforium, both in the Choir and Nave were not originally so high
as we now see them, but no doubt were heightened when the larger
windows were inserted.
The south end of the Transept differs from the north in the
arrangement of the windows; in the gable is a low Perpendicular window
of seven lights, sunk within a deep recess; the north end has in the
upper tier two large Perpendicular windows side by side. There is also
a difference in the gable and pinnacles. Some corbels in the lower
part of the wall would indicate the former existence of an adjoining
structure but what it was we cannot undertake to say.
Considerable anxiety has been felt as to the stability of some
portions of the south side, and it has been found necessary to
underpin some of the buttresses of the Choir and the walls of the
Transept with large slabs of Yorkshire stone. It has also been deemed
desirable to circumscribe the two round towers of the south west
Transept with iron bands.
The south entrance to the Cathedral is through a portion of the
eastern side of the +Cloisters+. The arch of entrance however, does
not harmonise with the other portions of the Transept, and was
doubtless an insertion, probably at the same time as a similar one in
the north Transept, and by the same architect. It passes through a
beautiful Norman door-arch in the south wall of the Nave, as described
in p. 41. Near this are the remains of an enriched arch, recently
discovered when the wall was repaired; if it is in its original
position it must have formed a communication from the Cloisters to
that portion of the western aisle of the south Transept which now
forms the Vergers' vestry.
The south side of the Nave is nearly similar to the north, but there
is no corbel table under the embattled parapet of the aisle: the aisle
windows have, with one exception, been restored to their original
form; those in the second tier retain their altered shape; but those
of the clerestory, as on the north side, are original.
The apsidal +Chapel of St. Catharine+, adjoining the south-west
Transept, has been rebuilt in accordance with the original structure.
* * * * *
+Dimensions of the Cathedral.+
INTERIOR.
Ft. In.
The Galilee, or Western Portico 42 0
The Tower 40 4
The Nave 208 0
Crossing the Octagon 71 5
The Choir 123 0
Retro-choir 35 10
The whole length, from west to east 520 7
The length of Transept from north to south (including the Octagon) 178 6
Breadth of the Nave with the Aisles 77 3
Breadth of the Transept with the Aisles 73 0
Breadth of the Choir with the Aisles 77 3
Height of the walls of the Nave 72 9
Height of the ceiling from the floor, at the east end of the Nave 86 2
Height of the Pillars which support the Dome and Lantern 62 0
Perpendicular height of the Dome, springing from the capitals of
the pillars, to the aperture of the Lantern 32 0
Height of the Lantern itself, from its aperture on the Dome to its
vaulted roof 48 0
The whole height from the floor to the centre of the Lantern 142 0
Height of the vaulted roof of the Choir 70 0
Clear diameter of the Octagon, from one pillar to the opposite 65 4
Clear diameter of the Lantern, within 30 0
Length of the Lady Chapel (now Trinity Church) 100 0
Breadth of the same 46 0
Height to its vaulted roof 60 0
EXTERIOR.
The whole length, from west to east 537 0
The length of the great Cross, or Transept, from north to south 190 0
Height of the four stone turrets of the western Tower 215 0
Height of the two Towers of the south-west Transept 120 0
Height of the roof over the Nave 104 0
Height of the Lantern over the Dome 170 7
Height of the eastern front, to the top of the Cross 112 0
Having finished our survey of this noble edifice, we will proceed to
make a few observations on the remains of the monastery, which will
form the subject of a separate chapter. In order to bring them all
conveniently before the visitor we will retrace our steps for a short
distance round the east end of the Cathedral, and commence with the
buildings on the north side of the Lady Chapel.
[Illustration]
+The Monastic Buildings.+
_&c. &c._
We will commence our notice of these remains of former ages by
observing that as they now, in a great measure, form private
residences, they can only be seen by visitors externally; it will be
sufficient, therefore, for us to point out the several localities, and
state, as far as we are able, their original uses, and present
appropriation.
On the north side of the Lady Chapel stands an old square tower, now
used as a belfry for the parish of the Holy Trinity, but it is not
certain for what purpose it was originally used. Adjoining this is a
building recently erected on the site of a former one, comprising a
practice-room and school-room for the Choristers, with a residence for
the master; beyond this, eastward, is an arched gateway communicating
with the public street: this was closed up for many years, but has
lately been re-opened; over it is the muniment room of the Dean and
Chapter. Next is a residence for one of the Vergers, and beyond that
is another dwelling house; the next portion is in a dilapidated state,
and at the present time is used as a mason's yard and workshop for
carrying on the works in progress: these occupy the site of the
ancient +Sacristy+. A little further in the same direction stands the
residence of one of the prebendaries, on the site of the ancient
+Almonry+; there are in this building some remains of Early English
vaulting, and at the east end may be observed the remains of a triplet
window of the same period; the middle window has been destroyed by the
insertion of a modern window, now blocked up, but the stone work of
the side windows can easily be traced.
We next proceed round the east end of the Cathedral to the south end
of the Transept, a few yards south of which may be observed a range of
Early English arches, each containing a double arch, which is again
subdivided, but all have been long blocked up; this was a portion of
what was called the "Dark Cloister." To the eastward of these is
another range of arches with piers about twelve feet in height, some
of which are comparatively perfect; these piers are alternately
cylindrical and octagonal, the octagonal columns presenting
alternately a side or an angle in front. The arches are profusely
enriched with mouldings; the walls above were pierced with a row of
small windows with semicircular heads. These piers and arches may be
seen on both sides of the road-way, corresponding with each other like
the nave of a church, and afford a good example of "highly refined
Norman work." A beautiful arch at the end leads to another series, and
beyond this, in one of the prebendal houses, is a vaulted room which
seems to have been erected about the period of the transition from the
Norman style to the Early English.
They form a church-like building, and by some historians have been
described as the remains of the Conventual Church erected at the
restoration of the monastery by Ethelwold, A.D. 970, and including the
ruins of St. Etheldreda's own church, founded A.D. 673. This, if
correct, would make it one of the oldest specimens of the Saxon style
in the kingdom. This statement has been contradicted by others, and
Professor Willis, who had devoted much attention to these buildings,
stated that they are the remains of the +Infirmary+ of the monastery,
with a chapel attached, and erected many years subsequent to the
period mentioned; the portion we have likened to the nave of a
church--now affording an approach to several residences--was the body
of the Infirmary; the portion east of the arch was no doubt the
chapel, and the vaulted room spoken of, the chancel. This statement
derives some confirmation from the existence, in a similar position,
of the Infirmary at Peterborough, and at some other places. The style
of architecture too denotes a period subsequent to the erection of the
nave of the Cathedral.
The house on the north side, adjoining the chapel before mentioned,
now a prebendal residence, appears to have undergone little alteration
since its erection; the parapet, and the almost flat roof covered with
lead, appear to be original. This was probably used by the master of
the Infirmary as a residence, and a hall to entertain the aged and
infirm separately from the sick monks, being near the chapel and the
Infirmary. The next house westward, now the residence of a Minor
Canon, is said to have been the "Painted Chamber," but to what use it
was applied we are not able to say.
The residence on the south side of the Infirmary, opposite to the last
mentioned, now the residence of a prebendary, stands on the site of
the "Cellarer's Lodging"; and the next house, eastward, also a
prebendal residence, on the site of the "Black Hostelry," or near it.
The +Dormitory+ of the monks was generally a long narrow room,
standing north and south, near the church, convenient for the monks'
attendance on the nocturnal services; here it was situated near what
has been pointed out as part of the "Dark Cloister," not far from the
south end of the Transept, and probably the communication was by a
passage leading to a winding stair still standing in the south-east
angle of the Transept.
The +Chapter House+ is believed to have stood between the north end of
the Dormitory and the Transept, similar to Peterborough, having its
entrance from the east side of the Cloisters; nothing however remains
to shew its exact position; both Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers describe
it as having stood on the space now occupied by the Dean's flower
garden, where are some remains of a building in the Norman style, but
which has since been stated to have been the Monks' kitchen; but in
consequence of the many alterations which have been made at different
periods, the demolition and removal of some buildings, and the ruin of
others, it is difficult to speak with certainty. The monastery was a
large one, and the buildings numerous for the various requirements, of
many of which no traces remain, nor is it known where they were
situated.
The only part remaining of the +Cloisters+ is the north-east angle,
through one part of which is the south entrance to the Cathedral. The
inner wall of the north side and part of the east side are yet
standing, with the openings partially bricked up, but the roof is
gone. These are not the original Cloisters, but occupy nearly the same
position as the earlier ones.
The +Refectory+, according to Professor Willis and others, stood at
the south side of the Cloisters, on part of the space now occupied by
the Dean's garden, a portion of a very thick wall, in which are some
Early English corbels, is still remaining.
Our attention will next be directed to the Deanery, sometime thought
to have been the Refectory, but was more probably the +Guest-hall+ for
the entertainment of strangers and others visiting the monastery. It
is a large building, standing like several others upon vaults, and
appears to have been built in the latter part of the thirteenth
century; it has, however, undergone considerable alterations at
different times, and now presents but few remains of that period,
although the walls, buttresses, and vaults bear strong characteristics
of it. This formed the northern side of a small court, around which
were buildings forming the residence of the priors of the monastery,
of which also the next house, now the residence of a prebendary,
formed a part; the vaulting of this is very ancient, probably in the
early part of the Norman era, but the superstructure is of a later
period. There is a fine fourteenth-century fire place in the house.
[Illustration]
Adjoining this house, at the south-west corner, next the garden,
stands a building generally known as "+Prior Crauden's Chapel+,"
having been founded by John de Crauden, prior of Ely (1321-1341), as a
private chapel attached to his residence, and built under the
direction of Alan de Walsingham, the skilful architect of the Octagon.
It is most interesting for the rich remains of architectural beauty
which it displays. "It is," says Mr. Rickman, "one of the most curious
and valuable Decorated remains in the kingdom; its ornaments are of
the best character, and well executed, and the whole design is of
great excellence." It belongs to the Deanery, but was for many years
used in connection with the adjoining house, having been converted
into three rooms by floors inserted; these floors have been removed,
and the chapel in some degree restored; some of the windows which had
been closed have been re-opened, and the eastern one filled with
stained glass, the gift of Mrs. Smart. It is now used as a private
chapel for the Grammar School.
The Chapel stands upon a vault, the floor of which is nearly upon a
level with the surrounding ground; the vault has a groined ceiling
supported by plain columns, and the original entrance was directly
under the west window of the Chapel, but is now on the north side. The
entrance to the chapel is by a staircase which winds within the
buttress at the north-west angle. The length is divided into four
compartments by clustered columns, from the tops of which sprung the
ribs of the vaulting. The first compartment is plain, and was probably
the ante-chapel: the second is ornamented with a double niche, richly
decorated with small columns, pinnacles, crockets, &c.; in the lower
niche the wall is pierced for a small window; the upper one probably
contained a figure: the third and fourth compartments have long
pointed windows, separated into two lights by a mullion. The east end
has ornamented niches in the angles, it projects a little beyond the
compartments, forming a recess, in which is the large window, divided
into five lights, with elaborate tracery. The floor is elevated at the
east end for the altar, and is formed of mosaic tiles; upon the raised
portion is represented the Fall of man, and the remainder is
ornamented with various other figures and devices; some portions are
nearly perfect, but the colouring is greatly faded. Some remains of
fresco painting were discovered on the walls when the restorations
were in progress, and probably the chapel had originally been richly
embellished with colours and gilding, in the style of the period in
which it was built.
We have now an opportunity of glancing at some of the other portions
of the monastic buildings, which formerly extended from the Prior's
Lodge to the gateway, but are now somewhat short of it, as a garden
intervenes.
The first, adjoining the Deanery, formerly the Registry, but
originally part of the residence of the former priors, was called
"+The Lodge+," and contained the great hall, named "The Fair Hall,"
the high sharp-pointed windows of which still remain in the first
story; from the corner of this hall a gallery or passage led to the
prior's chapel just mentioned. This formed the western side of the
small court before spoken of, around which the residence of the
priors was built. This is now the residence of the Rev. R. Winkfield,
Head Master of the Grammar School, and the adjoining house, formerly
the school house, is used as a dormitory, &c. for the pupils. Next to
this is the residence of the Rev. W.E. Dickson, Minor Canon and
Precentor, which brings us to the end of this series of the buildings.
These all stand upon vaults or crypts, which were probably used as
cellars or store-houses, and the superstructure as lodgings for guests
of the prior, being near his residence; these buildings formed the
western side of the monastery, and were built about 1180, but raised
and altered by Alan de Walsingham, about 1320.
[Illustration]
This brings us in our progress to the great gate of the monastery,
called "+Ely Porta+," or more frequently, the "Porter's Lodge." It is
a large and massive pile, having square towers at the angles, and was
begun by Prior Buckton shortly before his death in 1397, and probably
finished by his successor, Walpol, as it is sometimes spoken of as
"Walpol's Gate." On the eastern side the opening is a single arch of
great span, but on the western side there are two, a large one--but
smaller than that on the eastern side--for carriages, and a still
smaller one for foot passengers. The north end of the building is
occupied as the residence of the Porter, who is also a Verger of the
Cathedral; the south end with the rooms above, including a large one
over the archway, is used for the Cathedral Grammar School, or +King's
School+, founded in 1541, by Henry VIII., and is under the control of
the Dean and Chapter. The foundation is for twenty-four boys, who are
elected without restriction as to birth or residence, and are entitled
to some privileges in reduction of school fees. The school has lately
been re-modelled by the Dean and Chapter, in order to bring it up to
the requirements of the age, and extensive alterations have been made
to provide accommodation for boarders.[54] The school is not
restricted to the foundation boys, but is open to all who are prepared
to accede to the terms, and is now in a flourishing condition.
[Footnote 54: We understand it is intended to make some further
alterations, and to build a new "hostel," on a plot of ground nearly
opposite the gateway on the western side, forming a block of buildings
to include accommodation for sixty boys, with masters' and servants'
offices, as well as the dormitories, studies, and day rooms for the
boys.]
We will now cast our eyes over the Park, which was much improved by
the exertions of Dean Peacock; it was formerly divided into several
inclosures by walls or hedges, but is now in two pieces, separated by
iron fencing, and has been planted in various parts with ornamental
trees; a pathway runs round the south-eastern portion, and another
across it, and by a pair of iron gates (closed at night) a
communication is formed with a street at the lower part of the city.
On the south side is an artificial mound generally called "Cherry
Hill," the origin of which is uncertain; but it was probably occupied
by a mill for the use of the monastery; Mr. Millers thought it once
formed the site of a castle erected for the defence of the monastery,
which in early times experienced some of the vicissitudes of war; it
is covered with trees and shrubs, and a winding path leads to the top,
where there is a kind of summer-house. A good view of the adjacent
country may be had from the summit, particularly towards the east,
south, and west.
From the foot of this hill, extending to some length westward, is a
range of buildings used in part as stables and coach-houses, and
partly as workshops and store-houses for stone and materials required
for the repair of the Cathedral and buildings; this was the small
grange within the precincts, a larger one stood more to the westward,
outside the monastery.
We will pass through the gateway and examine its western front which
remains nearly in its original state; there are some niches and
canopies, and several shields but their bearings are nearly all
obliterated. The gates are closed at night.
While here we may notice at a short distance to the left, at the
south-west corner of the open space, the new Theological College,
designed for candidates for Holy Orders desirous of religious
preparation, theological instruction, and pastoral training; and is
open to students who have graduated at one of the Universities: of
which the Rev. Dr. Luckock, Canon of the Cathedral, is principal. The
building is of red brick with stone dressings, and contains chapel,
lecture room, studies and dormitories for the accommodation of twelve
students, with the usual offices.
Our course will now take us northwards towards the Cathedral, outside
the western boundary of the monastery, thus giving the opportunity of
observing the other side of the buildings we noticed after Prior
Crauden's chapel: that they are of great antiquity is evident by the
flat Norman buttresses on part of the western wall; but they have at
various times undergone considerable alterations which have done much
to obliterate their original appearance, and alter the character of
the buildings. We first pass the house occupied by the Rev. W.E.
Dickson, then those occupied by the Rev. R. Winkfield, including the
house standing a few feet in retreat, originally part of the prior's
residence, which adjoins the western end of the Deanery; the remaining
space to the south-west Transept being occupied as a private garden by
the Dean. On our left are the gardens belonging to the Bishop's
Palace; and this brings us to the west end of the Cathedral, from
whence we started on our tour of observation.
The Cathedral is too much encumbered by buildings to allow us to take
the whole of it into view from any one position; but several good
points of view may be found at moderate distances, ranging from
south-west to east, which will, we think, amply repay those who may
have leisure and inclination to go a short distance to observe them.
* * * * *
Having endeavoured to point out, to the best of our ability, the
objects most worthy of notice in the Cathedral, as well as others
around it within the precincts of the ancient monastery, we will add a
brief notice of a few other buildings which are without the precincts,
but should not be passed without some observation.
+The Bishop's Palace.+
This is a large mansion consisting of a centre and two wings, nearly
adjoining the west end of the Cathedral, being separated from it only
by a public road. But little is known of a palace here prior to the
time of Bishop Alcock, who erected the present wings with a noble hall
or gallery about the end of the fifteenth century: his arms, and those
of the see may be seen in the face of the eastern wing. The gallery
adjoining the western wing was erected by Bishop Goodrich in the third
year of the reign of Edward VI., whose arms appear in stone on the
centre of the lower panels of the bay window; on the panel to the
right of this are the arms of Bishop Goodrich, and on the left panel,
the same arms impaling those of the see; on the left-hand splay panel
is carved the "Duty towards God," and on the right-hand splay panel
the "Duty towards our neighbour." The more modern part of the house
next the garden is said to have been erected by Bishop Keene, but was
perhaps only altered by him, as there was on the eastern side of the
part projecting into the garden, a stone door arch apparently much
older than this part of the house; and another on the eastern side
near the chapel; this has been removed, and now forms the servants'
entrance from "the Green."
The interior of the house has been much improved, and the chapel in
the eastern wing fitted up with taste, the windows being filled with
stained glass. The gardens are neat and kept in excellent order. There
are in the Palace several portraits of bishops and others, also a
curious painting called the "_Tabula Eliensis_" representing the forty
knights who were quartered on the monastery by William I., each with
his shield of arms, and a monk as his companion. There is also a
picture 6 ft. 6 in. long and 2 ft. 2 in. high, representing the
funeral of Bishop Cox, in 1581. Bishop Turton left by his will two
pictures, to remain in the palace; and there is a good library
belonging to the see.