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ELY CATHEDRAL
[Illustration]
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
ELY. HILLS & SON
LONDON. SIMPKIN & CO. & ALL BOOKSELLERS
[Illustration: THE PRIOR'S DOORWAY]
THOS. KELL, LITH. 40, KING STREET
COVENT GARDEN, LONDON
[Illustration: Ely: Hills & Son
Thos. Kell Sculpt. London
ELY CATHEDRAL--THE OCTAGON.]
[Illustration: +Ely Cathedral.+
GROUND PLAN OF THE CHOIR.]
+Ground Plan of the Choir of Ely Cathedral.+
The first three bays are in the Decorated style, about the same date
as the Octagon (1337-1361). The Norman bays which they replaced were
injured by the fall of the central Tower in 1322. The six eastern bays
(the Presbytery) are in the Early English Style, and were built by
Bishop Northwold (1235-1252).
Having entered the South aisle of the Choir by the iron gate marked 1
on the plan, and passed, on the right, the monuments of Bishop Allen,
and the Stewards, we come to 2. Bishop de Luda's monument (1298)
restored on the north side by Dean Peacock. 3. Bishop Barnet's tomb
(1373). 4. Tomb of John Tiptoft, Earl of Worcester, and his two wives
(1470). 5. Tomb of Bishop Hotham (1337) who left money for the
rebuilding of the three Decorated bays of the Choir. 6. On the south
side of the aisle is the monument erected in 1879 to Canon Selwyn. 7.
Bishop West's Chapel, built about 1534, containing the graves of
Bishops West, Keene, and Sparke, and on the south side the remains of
seven benefactors of the monastery removed from the Conventual Church
in 1154; and built in the north wall is the tomb of Cardinal de
Luxemburg, Bishop of Ely, who died 1443. 8. In the Retro-Choir is the
tomb of Dr. Mill, Canon of Ely, and Regius Professor of Hebrew at
Cambridge, who died in 1853. 9. Grave of Bishop and Mrs. Allen (1845).
10. The east wall on which are traces of painting of which no account
can be given. 11. Bishop Alcock's Chapel, containing his grave; he
died in 1500; he was founder of Jesus College, Cambridge. 12. Tomb of
Bishop Northwold, founder of the Presbytery, who was Abbot of Bury
before he became Bishop of Ely; died in 1254. 13. The monument
formerly placed over Bishop Hotham's tomb, but supposed to be part of
the shrine of St. Etheldreda as adapted by Alan de Walsingham. 14.
Tomb of Bishop Kilkenny (1250). 15. Tomb of Bishop Redman (1505). 16.
The Reredos, designed by Sir G.G. Scott, presented by John Dunn
Gardner, Esq., in memory of his wife (1851). 17. The spiral Staircase
leading to the organ loft: the organ was built by Hill and Son, of
London. 18 and 19. The Stalls--very ancient, though the carved panels
above them are modern; the north side represents a series of pictures
from the New Testament; on the south side are illustrations of the Old
Testament; they were carved by Abeloos of Louvain. The sub-stalls are
new. 20. The oaken Screen designed by Sir G.G. Scott.
For further particulars see "Hand-Book to the Cathedral," published by
Messrs. HILLS AND SON, Minster Place, near the western entrance to the
Cathedral.
HAND-BOOK
TO THE
CATHEDRAL CHURCH,
WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF
+The Monastic Buildings, &c.,+
At ELY:
ILLUSTRATED BY ENGRAVINGS AND GROUND PLANS.
[Illustration]
NEW EDITION, REVISED.
ELY:
T.A. HILLS AND SON, BOOKSELLERS, MINSTER PLACE;
SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, AND CO., LONDON;
AND ALL OTHER BOOKSELLERS.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
[Illustration: HILLS & SON PRINTERS ELY]
TO
+The Rev. the Dean and Chapter of Ely,+
WHOSE UNREMITTING EXERTIONS
TO PROMOTE THE RESTORATIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS
OF THEIR CATHEDRAL CHURCH
MERIT THE GRATITUDE OF EVERY LOVER OF ART,
AND THE
SUPPORT OF THE COUNTRY AT LARGE:
THIS ELEVENTH EDITION OF
"_A HAND-BOOK TO THE CATHEDRAL CHURCH_,"
IS
MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED,
BY THEIR OBLIGED SERVANT,
_THE COMPILER_.
[Illustration: ST. ETHELDREDA.]
+Advertisement+
TO THE ELEVENTH EDITION.
When this Work first appeared as a candidate for public favour in
1852, the Compiler had but faint hopes of its ever attaining a
position of usefulness which the sale of the several editions has
proved it to have done. His constant aim has been to render it a
faithful as well as a convenient and useful companion to strangers and
others when examining this interesting Cathedral; and, in order to
render each succeeding edition more complete, his study has been to
give from time to time the best information in his power upon the
improvements which have for many years been in progress. He tenders
his best thanks for the kindness of many friends who have afforded him
information, and has availed himself of the important remarks of the
late Sir G.G. Scott at the Etheldreda Festival in 1873, and of the
valuable work of Mr. Stewart to correct as well as to verify and
support his own statements, for which his grateful acknowledgments are
due. The whole has been revised, and some additions have been made,
which he is induced to hope will enhance its value, and render it more
worthy of public favor.
_April, 1880._
+Advertisement+
TO THE FIRST EDITION.
This Hand-book is intended simply as a "guide" for those who visit Ely
for the purpose of seeing the Cathedral, the remains of the ancient
Monastery, and other objects of similar interest.
The Compiler acknowledges himself greatly indebted for much valuable
information to the elaborate works of Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers;
and, although he is conscious that his task has been performed but
imperfectly, he still ventures to hope that, in the absence of the
larger works above referred to, his little compilation will prove both
interesting and useful.
_May, 1852._
[Illustration]
CONTENTS.
Introduction Page 1
Historical Summary 14
The See of Ely 17
List of Abbots, Bishops, &c. 19
Officers of the Diocese 22
Dean and Chapter 23
List of Priors and Deans 24
List of Clergy and Officers 26
The Cathedral--West Front 27
Galilee or Portico 30
Interior of the Tower 31
South-west Transept, Baptistry, &c. 34
Nave 35
Nave Aisles 40
Transept 45
Octagon 49
Choir 58
North Aisle of Choir 77
Retro-Choir 80
South Aisle of Choir 81
Lady Chapel, or Trinity Church 88
Upper parts of the Church 91
Exterior 91
Dimensions of the Cathedral 99
The Monastic Buildings, &c. 101
Prior Crauden's Chapel 105
The Bishop's Palace 110
St. Mary's Church 112
The Grange 115
St. John's Hospital 115
Appendix I. The Cathedral Organ 117
II. Statement of Restorations, &c. 120
THE MINSTER.
_Copied, by permission, from "Good Words."_
Stone upon stone!
Each in its place,
For strength and for grace,
Rises stone upon stone!
Like a cluster of rods,
Bound with leaf-garlands tender,
The great massive pillars
Rise stately and slender;
Rise and bend and embrace
Until each owns a brother,
As down the long aisles
They stand linked to each other;
While a rod of each cluster
Rises higher and higher
Breaking up in the shadow,
Like clouds that aspire.
While here in the midst,
'Neath the great central tower,
The strength and the unity
Mingle in power,
And the mystery greatens:
Nowhere in the place
Can the eye see the whole,
Or the sun light the space.
And here the gloom gathers,
And deepens to dense,
While yonder the white light
Breaks sharp and intense.
Unity! Mystery!
Majesty! Grace!
Stone upon stone,
And each stone in its place.
[Illustration]
+Introduction.+
The introductory chapter of a book is often passed over without the
careful perusal it very frequently deserves, when, perhaps, its
purpose is to promote a better understanding of the subject contained
in the main portion of the work. In the present instance our object is
to give our readers an outline--a very brief one it is true--of the
history and foundation of the monastery at Ely twelve centuries ago,
which led to the subsequent erection of one of the noblest Cathedrals
in the kingdom, in order to enable them to understand more fully some
of the remarks in our description of this grand edifice as we now see
it. To those who desire a more elaborate detail or fuller description
than we can offer in our limited space, we would recommend a reference
to _The History and Antiquities of Ely Cathedral_, by the Rev. James
Bentham; or a more recent work, _The Architectural History of Ely
Cathedral_, by the Rev. D.J. Stewart, M.A., formerly Minor Canon of
Ely.
Christianity was first introduced into East Anglia about the end of
the sixth century, by Redwald, the grandson of Uffa, founder of that
kingdom; but it appears that little progress was made in his time,
although Ethelbert, king of Kent, is said to have founded a monastery
at Ely about A.D. 604. Eorpwald, and after him, Sigebert, sons of
Redwald, greatly promoted the cause of Christianity, and it was during
the reign of Sigebert that the truths of the Gospel spread over the
kingdom; three monasteries were founded, one at Bury St. Edmunds,
another at Burgh Castle, near Yarmouth, and a third at Soham; and the
first Bishop of East Anglia was consecrated. The pagan king of Mercia
frequently disturbed the tranquility of the kingdom, and Sigebert and
his cousin Egric (to whom Sigebert had resigned his kingdom) were both
slain in repelling an invasion. Anna met with the same fate; he was a
prince greatly esteemed for his good qualities; he married Heriswitha,
sister of St. Hilda, the foundress of Whitby Abbey, and had a numerous
family, among whom may be named Sexburga, who was married to
Ercombert, king of Kent; Withburga, who founded a nunnery at Dereham;
and Æthelryth, or, as she is more commonly called, Etheldreda, the
renowned foundress of the monastery at Ely, who was born about the
year 630, at Exning, in Suffolk, a short distance from Newmarket.
Before commencing our sketch of the life of Etheldreda, we may by way
of explanation say that what is now the Isle of Ely, was "anciently
called _Suth Girwa_,"[1] and is a large tract of high ground
en-compassed with fens that were formerly overflowed with water, of
which Ely is the principal place, and gives name to the whole. The
boundaries as now recognised are Lincolnshire on the north, Norfolk on
the east, Huntingdonshire and Northamptonshire on the west, and
Cambridgeshire on the south, of which county it forms the northern
portion, with a jurisdiction partially separate; within its bounds
there are, besides the city of Ely, several towns and villages, as
Wisbech, March, Chatteris, &c. and the former great waste of marsh
and fen has become, by means of drainage, a fertile corn-growing
district of great importance. Ely is believed to have taken its name
from _Elig_ in the Saxon tongue, signifying a willow; or from _Elge_
in the Latin of Bede the historian, from the abundance of eels
produced in the surrounding waters. We now continue our sketch.
[Footnote 1: Bentham's History, i. 47.]
Etheldreda, or Audrey, a princess of distinguished piety, devoted
herself to the service of God in early life, but urged by her parents,
was married to Tonbert, or Tonberet, Earldorman, or Prince of the
South Gyrvii, or Fenmen, A.D. 652, who settled upon her the whole Isle
of Ely as a dower. Three years after her marriage Tonbert died, and
left Etheldreda in sole possession, who, after a short time, committed
the care of her property to Ovin, her steward, and retired to Ely for
the purpose of religious meditation, for which it was well adapted, as
being surrounded by fens and waters it was difficult of access. She
was again solicited to enter the marriage state, and, although for
some time reluctant, she was induced by her uncle Ethelwold, then king
of East Anglia, to give her hand to Egfrid, son of Oswy, king of
Northumberland, and she afterwards became queen by the accession of
her husband to his father's kingdom. After the lapse of twelve years
she gained the permission of her husband to withdraw from his court,
and retired to the Abbey of Coldingham, where she took the veil;
thence withdrew to Ely, and repaired the old church founded by
Ethelbert, at a place called Cratendune, about a mile from the present
city, (of which place however nothing is now known); but, shortly
after, a more commodious site was chosen nearer the river, where the
foundations of her church were laid, and the monastery was commenced.
The history of this distinguished princess as related by various
writers, would be interesting and amusing, if space allowed; it is to
be found in _Bede's Ecclesiastical History_, in the _Liber Eliensis_,
a very valuable manuscript written or compiled by Thomas, a monk of
Ely, who lived in the twelfth century; and Mr. Bentham also relates it
at some length in his work;[2] but it would extend far beyond the
limits allowed in this sketch; we have, however, we hope given
sufficient to throw some light upon remarks we may make in subsequent
pages. She governed her house in such a manner as to gain the esteem
both of its members and the inhabitants of the surrounding country;
living and dying an example of piety and holiness, for we read that
"in her last sickness, when sensible of her approaching end, she was
calm and composed, and retained her memory and understanding to the
last, and expired in the very act of her calling, in the presence of
her flock; and whilst she was instructing them how to live, by her
example also taught them how to die."[3] She was interred, in
accordance with her own wish, in the grave-yard of the monastery, but
after a period of sixteen years her remains were translated, with much
reverence and ceremony, to the church she had founded. The account of
this translation might interest some of our readers, but is too long
for insertion here.
[Footnote 2: Bentham's History, i. 45, &c.]
[Footnote 3: Ibid. i. 59.]
The following lines, written at an early date, picture the fen country
as a series of lakes and water-courses, (as it was until drained six
centuries after,) studded with islands, on one of which the monastery
of Ely stood, and the music of its '_nones_' or '_vespers_' sounding
soft and sweet over the solitude.
Sweetly sang the Monks at Ely,
Knüt, the king, row'd nigh:
"Listen how the winds be bringing
From yon church a holy singing!
Row, men, nearer by."
Newborn sunbeams kiss the turrets
Of the minster high,
All the beauties of the morning,--
Grey at first, then golden dreaming,--
Deck the vernal sky.
Loudly sang the Monks of Ely
On that Thursday morn:
'Twas the Feast of "God Ascended"--
Of the wond'rous drama ended;--
God for sinners born!
Hark! "_I will not leave you orphans,
I will not leave you long_,"
Grand the minster music sounded
And the fen-land air resounded
With the holy song!
Sweetly sang the Monks at Ely
Knüt, the king, row'd nigh:
"Listen to the angels bringing
Holy _thoughts_ that seem like singing!
Row yet nearer by."
We will now continue our narrative, briefly taking in review the
history of the monastery as it is handed down to us. About A.D. 673
Etheldreda commenced the foundation of a monastery for both sexes, and
was installed the first abbess; she gave the whole Isle of Ely to the
monastery as an endowment, and died A.D. 679. She was succeeded by her
elder sister Sexburga, then a widow, who died A.D. 699, and was buried
beside her sister in the church of the monastery. Erminilda, daughter
of Sexburga, and widow of Wulfure, king of Mercia, next succeeded; and
the fourth abbess was Werburga, daughter of Erminilda, the time of
whose death is not known. Although St. Etheldreda's monastery
continued to enjoy a regular succession of abbesses for nearly two
centuries, not a single name of its superiors is preserved; protected
by its situation in the midst of waters, it was little molested by
external troubles until A.D. 870, when it was destroyed--like that of
Peterborough--by the Danes, the monastery burnt, and the inhabitants
put to the sword.
After the destruction of the monastery a century elapsed before steps
were taken for its restoration. At length Ethelwold, then Bishop of
Winchester, who is spoken of as "a great builder of churches and of
various other works," re-founded the monastery in the year 970, by the
direction of Edgar "the peaceful," who then sat on the throne of
England. After some time Ethelwold arranged with the king for the
surrender of the whole district of the Isle of Ely, by way of purchase
and exchange, for the use of the monastery. The king, for certain
considerations, gave his royal charter[4] restoring the revenues,
rights, and privileges to the monastery for ever. This charter (which
was afterwards confirmed by king Edward the Confessor,) formed the
base of that temporal power given to the church and monastery of Ely
by St. Etheldreda, and exercised (with some interruption) by the
abbots and bishops down to the year 1836, when it was discontinued by
an Act of Parliament.
[Footnote 4: This Charter is given at length in the Saxon language,
with an English translation, in the Appendix to Bentham's History.]
On the re-foundation of the monastery it was placed under the
Benedictine rule, which required the separation of the sexes, whereas
under the previous order both men and women had resided in the same
establishment. Brithnoth, prior of Winchester, was instituted as the
first abbot of the restored monastery, by Ethelwold, and appears to
have been zealous in his duty; he governed the house eleven years, but
in the year 981 he met an untimely death at the instigation of
Elfrida, queen dowager of king Edgar. He was succeeded by Elsin,
Leofric, Leofsin, Wilfric, Thurstan, (the last Saxon abbot, who
surrendered the monastery to the Conqueror in 1071,) Theodwin,
Godfrey, (a monk, as Administrator _ad interim_,) and Simeon, the
ninth abbot, who was a relative of king William, and prior of
Winchester; he recovered for his monastery some of the lands which had
been given to the Normans during the siege of the fen district. This
was the "Camp of Refuge" for all the English who refused submission to
the arbitrary rule of the foreigners, and thus it was the last strong
hold of the Saxons, and cost the Norman king much loss of time, blood,
and treasure, before he obtained possession, which was, however, at
last effected by the treachery of the abbot Thurstan. Simeon, though a
very old man when he was appointed abbot, laid the foundation of a new
church (the present Cathedral) A.D. 1083, as his brother Walkelin,
bishop of Winchester, had done there about four years before; he lived
to the age of one hundred years, and died in 1093; after this a
vacancy of seven years occurred, during which the revenues were
claimed for the use of the king (William II.) after whose death the
work was continued by Richard, the tenth and last abbot, who was
appointed on the accession of Henry I. A.D. 1100, and governed the
monastery seven years, and his church is said by Thomas of Ely[5] to
have been one of the noblest in the kingdom, and a marvel of
architectural skill; and was sufficiently far advanced to allow him to
translate into it on the 17th of October, 1106, the remains of
Etheldreda and her companions and canonized successors, placing them
behind the high altar in the new presbytery, with great pomp and
ceremony. Further progress was made under Hervè le Breton, formerly
Bishop of Bangor, who was appointed administrator to the monastery
after the death of Richard.
[Footnote 5: Liber Eliensis, ii.]
Hitherto, spiritual jurisdiction over the Isle of Ely had been claimed
by the Bishop of Lincoln, but Abbot Richard obtained the consent of
the king (Henry I.) to a scheme for converting the abbacy into a
bishopric; and after much negociation, the change was effected in
1109, by the appointment of Hervè (then administrator) as the first
Bishop of Ely. He set himself energetically to the task of settling
the government of his See, and of apportioning the lands and revenues
of the monastery between the monks and himself, with a keen eye to his
own interests and those of his successors.
At the time of the conversion of the abbacy into a bishopric, when the
Conventual Church became a Cathedral, the number of monks was about
fifty, though the usual number was seventy; of these the chief in
subordination to the Bishop, was the Prior, (sometimes styled the Lord
Prior) who had the superintendence over all the inferior members; and
next, the Sub-Prior, or Prior's deputy, to assist him when present and
act for him in his absence. The other officers were, the Sacrist, who
had the care of the books, vestments, plate, and ornaments belonging
to the church, as well as the superintendence of the buildings; the
Cellarer, who procured all the necessaries for the living of the
community; the Chamberlain, who provided their clothes, beds, and
bedding; the Almoner, who distributed the charities of the monastery;
the Precentor, who regulated the singing and the choristers; the
Hosteller, who entertained strangers; the Infirmarer, who had the
charge of the sick; and the Treasurer, who received the rents and
other means of revenue, and made the disbursements.
We have endeavoured briefly to bring down our history from the period
of the introduction of Christianity into East Anglia, and the
foundation of the monastery, to the time when the present Cathedral
was commenced and some way advanced; we will follow it up with a brief
account of the periods of erection of this noble edifice, reserving
the more particular description of the several parts for our survey of
the building.
There is no Cathedral in England which possesses finer examples of the
various successive styles of ecclesiastical architecture than that of
Ely; affording excellent opportunities of judging of the comparative
merits of each. The Norman portion of the building--the Nave and
Transept--is lighter in character than earlier examples of the same
style; indeed, in many places it bears marks of transition from the
round to the pointed style. Of each of the several periods of what is
usually termed Pointed, or Gothic, Ely Cathedral possesses pure and
perfect specimens: the Galilee, or western porch, and the Presbytery
were built when the Early English style was perfected: the Octagon,
the three bays of the stalled Choir, and the Lady Chapel, when the
Decorated English prevailed: and the chapels of bishops Alcock and
West when the Perpendicular style was adopted. "It will be thus seen
that this remarkable structure completely illustrates the history of
church architecture in England from the Conquest to the Reformation,"
viz., Norman, A.D. 1066-1150; Transitional, 1150-1200; Early English,
1200-1300; Decorated, 1300-1460; Florid, or Perpendicular,
1460-1550.[6]
[Footnote 6: The periods were thus divided by the late Mr. Sharpe:
Norman, A.D. 1066-1145; Transitional, 1145-1190; Lancet, 1190-1245;
Geometrical, 1245-1315; Curvilinear, 1315-1360; Rectilinear,
1360-1550.]
The Cathedral was commenced, as before stated, in A.D. 1083, by
Simeon, in the Norman style; the Choir, with its apse or semicircular
end--altered however to a square end before it had proceeded far--the
central Tower, the great Transept, and part of the Nave were begun by
him, but were not finished at his death in 1093; of this work, only
the ground-story of the great Transept now remains; the original plan,
as was usual in Norman churches, comprehended an eastern arm of
moderate length, a Transept, with a central Tower at the crossing, and
a Nave; the Choir usually occupying the crossing and one or more bays
of the Nave, the eastern arm being used as a presbytery or sanctuary.
After a delay of seven years, the work was carried on by Abbot Richard
(1100-1107), who probably completed them, with the exception of the
Nave, which was finished about 1174, affording a fine specimen of
later Norman, and by its extension westward gave the church the form
of a Latin cross, then much used. It is not improbable that the
Conventual Church, which the new building was intended to supersede,
stood on the site of the present Nave, and was removed from time to
time to make room for the new and enlarged building then in progress.
A few years later the great western Tower with the wings, forming a
second Transept, were begun, but whether by Bishop Harvey or by the
monks themselves during the episcopate of Bishop Nigel (1133-1169), we
cannot say; they were carried on during the episcopate of Bishop Ridel
(1174-1189), and completed as high as the first battlements during
that of his successor, Longchamp (1189-1197), producing a fine example
of what is called the Transitional style. During this latter period
the Romanesque had been rapidly giving way to the Pointed style, and
thus as the building progressed one style merged into the other.
After some years further progress was made towards the west, as the
Galilee, or western porch, is stated to have been erected by Bishop
Eustace (1198-1215), of whom it is recorded that "he built from the
foundation the new Galilee of the Church at Ely, towards the west, at
his own cost." "This has given rise to much difference of opinion.
Some persons think that by the 'Galilee towards the west,' is meant
the western porch, while others holding that so fine a work is
inconsistent with so early a date, suppose the Galilee to have been
the northern half (now lost) of the western Transept.... My own
impression has always been that it was the west porch which still
exists."[7] Be this as it may, it is a beautiful specimen of the Early
English style; and Bishop Northwold (1229-1254) took down the east end
of the church and lengthened it by the six eastern arches, usually
called the Presbytery, with its magnificent eastern façade, in the
same style; they were begun A.D. 1234, and finished and dedicated in
1252, being "one of the noblest pieces of architecture of that
glorious architectural period." About the same time a spire of timber
covered with lead was erected on the Tower.
[Footnote 7: Lecture on Ely Cathedral by the late Sir G.G. Scott, at
the Etheldreda Festival, Oct. 1873.]
We now come to the period in which the "two great and famous
productions of the fourteenth century--the two special objects of
pride which our Cathedral boasts--the Lady Chapel and the central
Octagon, with the three adjoining bays eastward,"[8] were erected;
"each work is of the highest and of undisputed merit, and forms a most
marked feature in the building;"[9] affording most admirable specimens
of the Decorated English style. In 1321 the foundation stone of the
vast and magnificent Lady Chapel was laid by Alan de Walsingham, then
sub-prior, in the time of Bishop Hotham (1316-1337), the work was
continued under Bishop Montacute (1337-1345), and finished in 1349,
under Bishop L'Isle (1345-1362). In the year following the
commencement of this work the fall of the great central Tower took
place, ruining the adjoining bays all round, and especially those of
the Norman Presbytery. This catastrophe was not altogether unexpected,
for the monks had discontinued the use of the Choir and held their
services in St. Catherine's Chapel, in the western part of the
Cathedral. The Tower fell with such noise and violence as "to make the
whole city to tremble, and to cause men to think that an earthquake
had taken place." The work of rebuilding was soon undertaken, and
under the skilful directions of the same Alan de Walsingham (who was
doubtless the architect of both these erections,) the grand work was
accomplished; the stone-work of the Octagon was finished (if indeed it
ever was quite finished) in 1328, and the woodwork and roof about
1342. The plan of the Octagon included in its area one bay on each of
its four sides. The expense of rebuilding the three bays on the
eastern side was defrayed by a sum of money left by Bishop Hotham.
[Footnote 8: Ibid.]
[Footnote 9: Ibid.]
The spire erected on the western Tower by Bishop Northwold was taken
down in the latter part of the fourteenth century, and was replaced by
an octagonal story, flanked with turrets, in the Decorated style,
above which a spire was again placed. This was an injudicious step,
and has been thought to have been the primary cause of the ruin of the
north-western Transept, the great additional weight being more than
the four supporting arches (which were lofty) were intended to bear.
Of the period when the Transept fell, or was taken down, we have no
record; but the character of the buttress on the site of the western
wall shows that it must have been at an early period, probably about
A.D. 1400, as the strengthening arches placed within the original ones
appear to have been erected a few years after.
We have no further additions to the fabric to particularise in this
sketch, with the exception of the chapel of Bishop Alcock,
(1486-1500), in the Perpendicular style; and that of Bishop West
(1515-1533), in the same style, but when it was approaching to
Renaissance; but the alterations of windows and other parts, together
with necessary repairs, have been numerous and various at different
periods.
The Choir was under the Octagon until 1770, when it was removed to the
east end of the church; it was again altered in 1852 to its present
position. Many costly and extensive restorations[10] and alterations
have been made within the last thirty-five years, and others are still
in progress. The Galilee, or western porch, has been cleansed and
floored, and the arch of communication with the Tower beautifully
restored; the western Tower has been strengthened, the interior thrown
more open, a painted ceiling put up, and a new floor laid; the
south-west Transept has been opened, repaired, ceiled, paved and
cleansed; the apsidal Chapel of St. Catherine has been rebuilt and
paved; the roof of the Nave has been re-covered with lead, the
interior walls have been cleansed, a new and beautiful painted ceiling
completed, and a new floor laid in the Nave and aisles; the Octagon
and Lantern have undergone a thorough repair, and the decoration of
the dome and lantern has been effected; the great Transept has been
repaired, the polychrome roof re-painted, and a new floor laid in the
northern portion. The whole of the eastern portion of the church has
been cleansed and restored; the beautiful Purbeck marble pillars have
been re-polished; the floor of the Choir has been re-laid with veined
and black marble combined with encaustic tiles; an enriched oaken
screen has been erected at the entrance of the Choir, near which a new
and elegant stone pulpit has been placed; the original stalls have
been repaired, and improved by the introduction of a series of carved
panels, and new sub-stalls erected; and a new and elaborate reredos or
altar screen has been placed in the Choir. More than eighty windows,
exclusive of the eight lights at the east end of the church, have been
filled with stained glass by various artists, and several others,
which had for many years been stopped up, have been re-opened; the
organ has been very considerably enlarged and improved, put into a new
and elegant case, and placed in another position; and several stoves
have been introduced for warming the Cathedral when necessary. The
whole has been done at considerable expense, to meet which the funds
have been raised by subscriptions, towards which the late Bishops
Sparke, Allen, Turton, and Browne, the late Deans Peacock and Goodwin,
the Canons and their families and connections, with many noblemen,
gentlemen, and others, have been contributors: the capitular body have
done much towards the work in general, but particularly towards the
repairs of the fabric, the enlargement of the organ, and the warming
of the Cathedral. For a more detailed account of works and expenses we
refer our readers to Appendix II. at the end of the work.
[Footnote 10: The Restorations, which have been for some years in
progress, have been executed throughout with the most scrupulous care,
preserving every portion of uninjured surface, and re-producing what
is mutilated or destroyed as nearly as possible in exact conformity
with the indications of the ancient work afforded by the parts which
remain, and in the same material. They were at first carried out under
the directions of the late Dean Peacock, assisted from time to time by
Professor Willis, and by the occasional advice of Professional
friends: but towards the end of the year 1847, Sir G.G. Scott was
appointed architect to the works, and under his direction the
rearrangement of the Choir was effected, and other restorations in
progress carried out until his death. The windows have been filled
with stained glass chiefly through the munificence and exertions of
the late Canon E.B. Sparke.]
* * * * *
St. Etheldreda's church was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin; the
church erected by Ethelwold to St. Peter and St. Etheldreda; but since
the Reformation the dedication of the Cathedral has been to "The Holy
and Undivided Trinity."
* * * * *
HISTORICAL SUMMARY.
A.D.
673 Foundation of the Monastery for men and women, married and single,
by Queen Etheldreda. Etheldreda, first abbess, succeeded by
(1) her sister Sexburga.
(2) Erminilda, daughter of Sexburga.
(3) Withburga, daughter of Erminilda.
870 The Monastery destroyed by the Danes.
970 The secular clergy, who had returned to Ely, dismissed by Ethelwold,
bishop of Winchester, and the monastery reconstituted for monks
only under the rule of St. Benedict. Brithnoth first abbot.
1071 The Abbey, after a long defence by Hereward, surrendered to William
the Conqueror by Abbot Thurstan.
1083 The building of the present Cathedral commenced with the
south-eastern Transept, by Abbot Simeon, brother of Walkelin of
Winchester.
1109 Erection of the Diocese of Ely, Hervè le Breton being appointed the
first Bishop. Building of the Nave, Transepts, Tower and Choir
continued through the twelfth century.
1215 (about) Erection of Galilee Porch.
1235 Erection of the Presbytery, eastward of the Choir, by Bishop
Northwold. A spire erected on the Tower.
1321 Building of the Lady Chapel (Trinity Church) commenced.
1322 Fall of the Central Tower, followed by construction of the Octagon
and Lantern, by Alan de Walsingham. Western portion of the
Choir reconstructed by Bishop Hotham.
1330 (about) Prior Crauden's Chapel and the Guest Chamber, now the
Deanery, erected.
1340 The Stalls, the work of Alan de Walsingham, placed in the Octagon,
the position of the Choir before the fall of the central Tower.
1400 (about) William de Walpol, prior, erected the great gate of the Abbey
(Ely Porta). About this time erection of the Octagon or Campanile
on the West Tower, followed by the strengthening of the piers below.
1440 Erection of the Cloisters, and towards the end of the century, Bishop
Alcock's Chapel.
1534 Bishop West's Chapel.
1541 The Abbey dissolved by Henry VIII. and reconstituted as a Chapter
of Dean and Canons. Robert Steward last Prior and first Dean.
The conventional [Transcriber's Note: so in original, probably
should be "conventual"] buildings sold and destroyed, portions only
reserved for residence of Dean and Canons and other officers. The
Guest Chamber used as the common Hall of the College, but converted
at a later period into the Deanery.
1642 Dean Fuller deprived by the Parliament. During the Rebellion Ely
occupied by Cromwell's soldiers, and the Cathedral said to have
been used for stabling their horses.
1649 Commissioners under the Commonwealth survey and cause further
destruction of the conventual buildings.
1676 Pavement of the Nave restored by Mr. Clopton.
1699 Fall of the north-west angle of the north-eastern Transept;
rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren.
1754 Extensive repairs of the roof of the Octagon and Choir by Bishop
Mawson, and Deans Allix and Thomas.
1770 The stalls transferred from the Octagon to the Presbytery by Essex,
architect, and important repairs of the fabric executed.
1771 Publication of Bentham's "History and Antiquities of Ely Cathedral"
1801 The upper parts of the Tower repaired.
1823 The Nave, Octagon, Lantern, and Transepts coloured, and the Stalls
painted. This was done at considerable expense, and deemed at
the time a great improvement.
1831 A new Organ put in the old case.
1842 A fire accidentally commenced in the roof of the Nave adjoining
the Tower, but was soon extinguished. The roof of the Nave
re-covered with lead.
1845 Commencement of the modern Restoration of the Cathedral under
Dean Peacock. St. Catherine's Chapel rebuilt. South-western
Transept restored. Interior of the western Tower opened and
ceiled.
1847 Sir G. Gilbert Scott appointed architect. The stalls removed
westward and Choir re-arranged. Painting of the Nave ceiling
commenced, &c. A large number of stained windows introduced.
1851 The Organ re-modelled, enlarged and removed to the triforium.
1857 The east windows filled with stained glass.
1858 Restorations continued under Dean Goodwin. The Reredos erected.
The Lantern reconstructed as a memorial to Dean Peacock. Western
entrance repaired. Commencement of pavement of the Nave, &c., &c.
Foundations of the South Aisle of the Choir repaired.
1867 The Organ further enlarged and improved, towards which some of
the inhabitants of the town contributed £80 for a sub-base of 32
feet tone [Transcriber's Note: so in original; possibly "of stone."].
1870 Restorations continued under the present Dean. Foundations of
south-east Transept and south side of the Choir repaired. Western
Tower braced with iron bands. Pavement of Nave and Aisles
completed. Further additions to stained glass in Choir. Fourth
stained window placed in the Octagon.
1873 Celebration of the Bissexcentenary or Twelve-hundredth anniversary
of the foundation of the Monastery.
1874 Commencement of the decoration of the Octagon, Lantern, &c.
1875 Several new sculptured figures placed in the Octagon, and the
decoration of the Octagon and Lantern completed and re-opened.
1876 The paving of the north Transept completed.
1878 The ceiling of the Baptistry painted by Mr. Parry.
1879 The corona of pinnacles on the exterior of the Octagon completed.
A monument to Canon Selwyn placed in the South Aisle of the Choir.
[Illustration]
+The See of Ely.+
Edgar "the peaceful," by his charter, as mentioned in the
Introduction, restored the powers and privileges enjoyed by the
Superiors of the monastery previous to its destruction by the Danes,
to the newly-appointed Abbot on its re-foundation by Bishop Ethelwold,
A.D. 970, and the Abbots of Ely successively exercised powers nearly
similar to a County Palatine, and after the change from an abbacy to a
bishopric, the bishops continued to exercise similar authority until
the reign of Henry VIII., when they were greatly abridged by an Act of
Parliament. The successive Bishops of Ely, however, until the year
1836, possessed a jurisdiction of considerable importance, and had
almost sovereign authority within the district known as the Isle of
Ely, which was styled "_The Royal Franchise or Liberty of the Bishops
of Ely_."
On the conversion of the abbacy into a bishopric A.D. 1109, a division
of the property and revenues took place, and the bishop took care to
protect his own interests and those of his successors, but the charge
and repairs of the church and monastery fell to the share of the prior
and monks, the bishop retaining a certain jurisdiction over them. The
County of Cambridge, with the exception of a few parishes, was
transferred from the See of Lincoln to the new See of Ely, and the
Manor of Spaldwick, in the County of Huntingdon, was given to the
Bishop of Lincoln in compensation. The See now comprises the Counties
of Cambridge, Huntingdon, and Bedford, and the western division of the
County of Suffolk, comprised in the Archdeaconry of Sudbury. It is
divided into four Archdeaconries, which are subdivided into
thirty-three Rural Deaneries, except the Isle of Ely, which is under
the peculiar Archidiaconal jurisdiction of the Bishop, and is divided
into two Rural Deaneries. There are five hundred and fifty-four
benefices in the diocese. The population of the whole is about
500,000; and the area in acres is 1,357,756.
The Bishop has patronage to a considerable extent; he appoints to the
Chancellorship, to the Registrarship, to the four Archdeaconries, the
Rural Deaneries, to four Canonries in the Cathedral, and several
Honorary Canonries; to the Mastership and one Fellowship of Jesus
College, to one Fellowship at St. John's College, to the Mastership of
St. Peter's College, and is Visitor of four Colleges, in Cambridge,
and of several schools; and has about fifty livings in his gift.
* * * * *
_Arms of the See_--Gu. three ducal coronets or. These are derived from
the arms of the East Anglian kings.
* * * * *
The following list of the Bishops, to which is prefixed the succession
of Abbesses and Abbots, is derived chiefly from Mr. Bentham's _History
and Antiquities of Ely Cathedral_.
ABBESSES.
A.D.
673. St. Etheldreda. Foundress, and first Abbess.
679. St. Sexburga.
699. St. Erminilda.
? St. Werburga.
ABBOTS.
A.D.
970. Brithnoth. First Abbot.
981. Elsin.
1016. Leofwin, or Oschitel.
1022. Leofric.
1029. Leofsin.
1045. Wilfric.
1066. Thurstan. Last Saxon Abbot.
1072. Theodwin. A monk of Jumièges.
1075. [Godfrey, Administrator _ad interim_.]
1081. Simeon. Founder of the Norman Church.
_Interval of seven years._
1100. Richard. Completed the Norman Choir. Translated into it the remains
of the sainted Abbesses. Commenced negociations for the conversion
of the abbacy into a bishoprick. Died 1107.
BISHOPS.
1109. Hervè, or Hervey, first Bishop. The abbey estates divided, and
the See firmly established. Died 1131.
1133. Nigellus, a Prebendary of St. Paul's, London. Treasurer to the
King, Henry I. A Baron of the Exchequer. Died 1169.
1174. Geoffry Ridel, Archdeacon of Canterbury. Chaplain to King Henry
II. Baron of the Exchequer. Opponent of Becket. He built the
lower part of the great western tower of the church.
1189. William Longchamp, Chancellor of England. Papal Legate. Died
at Poictiers, 1197.
1198. Eustachius, Archdeacon of Richmond, Treasurer of York, and Dean
of Salisbury. Chancellor of England. Founder of the Galilee or
western porch. (See Stewart's Arch. Hist. of Ely Cathedral, p. 50.)
Died 1215.
1215. [Robert of York, chosen by the monks, but never consecrated, held
possession of the temporalities of the See for five years.]
1220. John de Fontibus, Abbot of Fountains in Yorkshire.
1225. Geoffery de Burgh, Archdeacon of Norwich.
1229. Hugh de Northwold, Abbot of St. Edmundsbury. This distinguished
prelate built the magnificent Presbytery, or eastern portion of
the choir. On the occasion of the dedication of the whole church,
he entertained sumptuously the King, Henry III., Prince Edward his
son, and many nobles and bishops.
1254. William de Kilkenny, Archdeacon of Coventry, and Chancellor.
1257. Hugh de Balsham, Sub-prior of the abbey. Founder of St. Peter's,
the first endowed College at Cambridge.
1286. John de Kirkeby. Treasurer of King Edward I. Canon of Wells
and York. Archdeacon of Coventry.
1290. William de Luda, (or Louth), Archdeacon of Durham. Prebendary
of St. Paul's, of York, and of Lincoln. Sometime Chancellor. Died
1298.
1299. Ralph de Walpole, Bishop of Norwich.
1302. Robert de Orford, Prior of the convent.
1310. John de Ketene, almoner of the church.
1316. John Hotham, Chancellor of the king's (Edward II.) exchequer;
Prebendary of York; Rector of Cottingham, in Yorkshire. Bishop
Hotham was a munificent promoter of the great architectural works
carried on under the rule of Prior Crauden, and from the designs
of Alan de Walsingham, then Sacrist. In his time the Lady Chapel
was begun; the Octagon completed; and the exquisite bays of
the western Choir designed.
1337. Simon de Montacute, Bishop of Worcester.
The Monks had chosen Prior Crauden.
1345. Thomas L'Isle, Prior of Dominicans at Winchester.
The choice of the Monks, which had fallen upon Alan of Walsingham
the illustrious architect, then their Prior, was again set aside
by the Pope, 1361.
1362. Simon Langham, Abbot of Westminster, and Treasurer of England.
Afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury, and Chancellor. In 1368
created Cardinal.
1366. John Barnet. Treasurer of England. Had been Bishop of Worcester;
afterwards of Bath, thence translated to Ely.
1374. Thomas de Arundel, Archdeacon of Taunton. Appointed Chancellor
of England in 1386; Archbishop of York in 1388, of Canterbury,
1396.
1388. John Fordham, Dean of Wells; Keeper of the Privy Seal.
1426. Philip Morgan, Bishop of Worcester. Died 1435.
1438. Louis de Luxemburg, Archbishop of Rouen. Had been Chancellor
of France and Normandy. Afterwards Cardinal.
1444. Thomas Bourchier, Bishop of Worcester; translated to Canterbury
1454. Cardinal, 1464.
1454. William Gray, D.D., Archdeacon of Northampton. Chancellor of the
University of Oxford. Lord Treasurer. Bishop Gray altered some
of the aisle windows of the Presbytery.
1478. John Morton, LL.D., Master of the Rolls. Archdeacon of Winchester.
Lord Chancellor, 1479. Translated to Canterbury, 1486.
Cardinal, 1493.
Bishop Morton was the first to attempt to drain the Fens; hence
"Morton's Leam," a drain extending from Guyhirn to Peterborough.
1486. John Alcock, LL.D., Master of the Rolls. Bishop of Rochester;
afterwards of Worcester; translated to Ely. Founder of Jesus
College, Cambridge. Bishop Alcock built the elaborate mortuary
chapel in which his remains lie buried, and much of the Episcopal
Palace at Ely.
1501. Richard Redman, D.D., Bishop of St. Asaph; then of Exeter.
1506. James Stanley, D.D., Archdeacon of Richmond; Precentor of Salisbury.
1515. Nicholas West, LL.D., Chaplain to King Henry VII. Dean of
Windsor. Built a chapel bearing his name.
1534. Thomas Goodrich, D.D., a zealous promoter of the Reformation.
One of the revisers of the Translation of the New Testament. Lord
Chancellor, 1551. Built Gallery of the Palace.
1554. Thomas Thirlby, D.D., Bishop of Westminster; translated to Norwich;
thence to Ely. Dispossessed for refusing the oath of supremacy
to Queen Elizabeth, 1559.
1559. Richard Cox, D.D., Dean of Christ Church, Oxford, and of
Westminster. Died 1581.
_The See vacant Eighteen years._
1600. Martin Heton, D.D., Dean of Winchester.
1609. Lancelot Andrewes, D.D., Bishop of Chichester. Translated from Ely
to Winchester, 1619. Author of the celebrated Book of Devotions.
1619. Nicholas Felton, D.D., Bishop of Bristol. One of the Translators
of the Bible.
1628. John Buckeridge, D.D., Bishop of Rochester.
1631. Francis White, D.D., Bishop of Carlisle; then of Norwich.
1638. Matthew Wren, D.D., Bishop of Hereford; thence translated to
Norwich; thence to Ely. Bishop Wren was confined in the Tower for
18 years, in consequence of his firm support of the Royal Authority.
1667. Benjamin Laney, D.D., translated from Peterborough to Lincoln;
thence to Ely. Bishop Laney bequeathed an estate to trustees for
putting out youths as apprentices.
1675. Peter Gunning, D.D., translated from Chichester.
1684. Francis Turner, D.D., translated from Rochester. Bishop Turner
was one of the seven bishops committed to the Tower, and was
deprived, as a non-juror, in 1691. Died 1700.
1691. Simon Patrick, D.D., Dean of Peterborough; Bishop of Chichester:
translated to Ely. Well known for his Devotional and Theological
Works.
1707. John Moore, D.D., Bishop of Norwich.
1714. William Fleetwood, D.D., Bishop of St. Asaph.
1723. Thomas Greene, D.D., Bishop of Norwich.
1738. Robert Butts, D.D., Bishop of Norwich.
1748. Sir Thomas Gooch, Bart., D.D., Bishop of Bristol; translated to
Norwich; thence to Ely.
1754. Matthias Mawson, D.D., Master of Corp. Chris. College, Cambridge;
Bishop of Llandaff: translated to Chichester; thence to Ely.
Bishop Mawson was the first to make a road practicable for wheeled
carriages from Cambridge.
1771. Edmund Keene, D.D., Bishop of Chester. Effected great improvements
in the Palace at Ely.