True, the Comédie Française possesses finished actors; true, also, they

are trying to keep up traditions there more than anywhere else; true,

as well, the scenery and costumes are of the best. But it is also true

that many of the good actors of the Français have in late years

deserted the house of Molière for freer fields, that the managers have

refused scores of good plays in late years which have been subsequent

successes at other theaters, and that most of the present actors of the

Français, wishing to create a “_genre_,” or shall we call it a

mannerism, of their own, do so at the expense of the true character of

the rôle which they play. Many of them who have become celebrated

refuse to play small parts and, what is even more to be regretted,

disdain to learn the classical repertoire which is the _raison d’être_

of the house of Molière.

[Illustration: A DRESS REHEARSAL AT THE THÉÂTRE FRANÇAIS]

But if the Français does not choose to present new plays and encourage

modern authorship for which purposes the government gives it yearly a

large subvention, other theaters do, and the public have filled them.

But even these latter theaters are hampered by the system of stars and

the desire to attract the public by the well-known name of a successful

author on the bill.

Sometimes the play of the successful author, like the little girl with

the curl in the middle of her forehead, is very, very good, and

sometimes very, very bad, but it is always very, very expensive. On

account of these stars and successful authors, the seats have to be

sold at a high price. Once the expense of production of the play is

covered, the play is forced to a long run, thus limiting the chance of

a new one being given.

For these reasons and many others M. Antoine, a young man who was an

employee of the city gas company, conceived in 1887 an idea of an

entirely different theater where all old traditions would be put aside,

where a play would not be given more than two weeks, thus opening the

door to a great many authors, and where a company of thirty-six actors

would play impartially all rôles and each one would receive for his

services the same pay.

The plays given should be upon every-day life, therefore no expensive

costumes or elaborate scenery would be needed.

The actors were not to come from a dramatic school, but teach

themselves by experience.

Realism was to pervade everything: acting, costumes, scenery and

properties.

In March, 1887, M. Antoine organized the first representation of

“Jacques Damour,” which was such a success that it was taken

immediately by the Odéon. The performance was given in a cheap little

auditorium in Montmartre, hired at as low a figure as possible for the

occasion. None of the actors were professionals. In this first

representation of the “Puissance des Ténèbres,” the cast was:

Men—Monsieur Antoine, still employee of the gas company, an employee

of the Minister of Finances, a secretary at Police headquarters, an

architect, a chemist, a drummer and a _marchand de vin_. Women—a

dressmaker, a bookbinder, an employee at the Post-office, etc., etc.

All this cast rehearsed in the evening after long hours in office and

store.

In spite of keeping expenses as low as possible, Antoine was in debt

after the first representation and was obliged to wait two months

before he could give another performance.

Finally the company succeeded in giving seven or eight representations

in a little _salle_ of the rue Blanche, and from there went to the

Théâtre Montparnasse, and thence to the Menus Plaisirs, where the

Théâtre Libre exists at the present day under the name of the Théâtre

Antoine.

With this little company it was not always easy sailing. Had it not

been at the time for the generous help of the press and the kindness of

the director of the vaudeville who sub-rented his hall to the ambitious

troupe for next to nothing, it would have met with financial ruin. But

the plays they gave attracted attention. Nowhere had such daring

realism and freedom from old traditions been attempted.

From 1887 to 1890 the Théâtre Libre produced one hundred and

twenty-five new “acts,” and presented the plays of thirty dramatic

authors whose work had never been heard before. Besides these, they

produced the plays of fourteen authors whose work had been represented

in Paris only once.

They had upon their programs among others the plays of Zola, Tolstoy,

Turgéneff, and Ibsen, and introduced many plays which subsequently were

reproduced upon the best stages of Paris. The good that Antoine has

accomplished by his indomitable energy and the efforts of those who

have been with him through these experiments is sufficiently proven by

the fact that while the company produced one hundred and twenty-five

plays, the Français during that same period of time produced only

twenty-five new plays and received seven hundred and twenty thousand

francs from the government as subvention, a sum given towards the

expense of mounting new plays. The Odéon during this time produced

sixty-seven “acts” and received three hundred thousand francs from the

government!

Monsieur Antoine does not believe in considering that a room has only

three sides. That is why he maintains it is legitimate to turn one’s

back on an audience if by reason of stage position the situation calls

for it. Neither does he believe the room in which the drama occurs can

be surrounded by imaginary apartments of dingy canvas, so the doors

upon his stage have real locks and open upon other rooms as

realistically furnished as the one within whose walls the action takes

place.

In the matter of costumes he is equally realistic, and every detail of

the style is genuine.

If it is a question of a library, there are real books upon real

shelves. These important attentions to detail are carried out through

all his plays. He does not believe that, because an object is at the

back of the stage, it should be made of papier maché or, what is worse,

painted on the back flat.

When you have seen three of his late productions, “La Fille Eliza,” the

story of a girl condemned to death; “La Bonne Espérance,” a tragedy of

a Holland fishing town; and “L’Indiscret,” a modern society play; you

will realize the genius and capability of Monsieur Antoine and his rare

company who work conscientiously together for the ensemble of a

finished production rather than for individual applause.

Among the _haut monde_ of Paris the finesse of the most complex social

intrigue is understood to perfection. The Parisian society play deals

with a series of _risqué_ situations.

[Illustration: A STAR’S DRESSING-ROOM]

The noisy, cruel, villain of the society play as we know him is not

seen here. The three principal characters are the “Charming and

Beautiful Wife,” the “Distinguished Husband,” whom she does not love,

and the “Jolly Young Man,” whom she does. Her attractive salon seems to

be especially adapted to the furtherance of the amours of certain of

her women friends whose husbands, it is to be presumed, are having tea

and conversation elsewhere.

Matrimony is taken for granted as a calamity, an unfortunate episode to

be remedied as soon as possible.

In the second act the Charming Wife heavily veiled sweeps into the

Jolly Young Man’s modest apartment.

“_Enfin!_” he cries, and the lovers embrace as if in a dream.

This is quite an exciting part, for it is not long now before you will

hear the heavy foot of the deceived husband upon the stairs.

“_Ah! voilà!_ here he comes!” The Charming Wife emits a little stifled

scream as she recognizes his step, and the Jolly Young Man, failing to

hide her in his wardrobe, puts on as bold a front as possible and

awaits the opening of his door.

Enter the Husband!

Not in a frenzy, with cocked revolver as we are used to seeing him, not

a bit of it. He comes in pleasantly and bows formally to madame and to

the Jolly Young Man. Through all he preserves the dignity of a visiting

general with a flag of truce. He even begs the pardon of the Jolly

Young Man for his interruption.

“Will you have the goodness, monsieur, to leave madame and myself alone

for a moment; I have something which I wish to say in private?”

“_Parfaitement, monsieur_,” answers as ceremoniously the Jolly Young

Man, and goes out.

When the Jolly Young Man has gone, madame attempts the usual distracted

flood of explanations, then, realizing the artificiality of them all,

shrugs her shoulders.

It is at this juncture that the Husband, as if speaking to some

indiscreet comrade, addresses madame as “my friend.”

“_Mon amie_,” he begins, “you must know that I, too, love another.”

“You have a mistress, of course,” replies madame, accepting this

foregone conclusion as a preliminary to what may follow.

“Naturally, my friend, but it is not of Mademoiselle de Tréville that I

speak, it is of one of your best friends, _une femme sérieuse, exquise,

ravissante_!” and he clasps his hand and looks toward heaven.

“Louise?” asks madame.

“_Parfaitement, mon amie._”

“_Tiens!_ That is funny,” replies madame, with a little amused smile;

“but what of her husband?”

“It will be difficult, but I think it can be arranged,” replies

monsieur dramatically.

Upon the reentrance of the Jolly Young Man, all three begin a breezy

conversation touching as lightly as possible upon the painful episode

of the interrupted rendezvous.

“I leave for Nice to-morrow,” says the Husband, picking up his silk hat

and his yellow kid gloves. “_Bonsoir, mes amis_,” and he bows himself

out through the modest portal of the Jolly Young Man’s apartment as the

curtain falls.

[Illustration: MARDI GRAS ON THE BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS]

All Paris poured into the Grands Boulevards on Mardi Gras. From the

Madeleine to the Place de la Bastille, this broad thoroughfare was a

compact surging sea of human beings. Those who had space enough danced,

some as clowns, some as harlequins. There were women in doublets and

hose, in boys’ clothes, in every conceivable get-up that could be

dragged from the boxes of cheap costumers. This human sea laughed at

each other in the best of good nature and threw paper confetti tit for

tat all day and half the night. Paris seemed to have been visited by a

vari-colored blizzard that roared whirling by, a February wind, over

the heads of the sea of merry-makers. It piled itself in great

kaleidoscopic drifts in the gutters and got down thousands of people’s

necks. The air was filled with dust, and from the balconies shot long

streamers of paper ribbons, some caught in the trees below, others fell

entangling themselves round the _chapeaux_ of the passing crowd.

At certain points the busses crossed amid cheers, but otherwise no

vehicles were allowed on the boulevards. A rabbit would have had hard

work getting through in a hurry from the Madeleine to the Bastille, so

compact was the crowd. In all this fun and gaiety I did not see a fight

or a drunken man, and I observed the show as long as it lasted. It

began on Sunday, when a procession of students started from the

Sorbonne and marched across the Seine, a somewhat disappointing

cavalcade in length but which, nevertheless, half of Paris turned out

to see and applaud.

The carnival reached its height on Tuesday and in the early hours of

Wednesday morning.

There were _bal masqués_ galore, for nearly every one had dressed for

them in the morning.

At the Bullier, the Gay Tivoli, and the Moulin de la Galette, carnival

reigned supreme.

At the Bal Bullier one had to take more than a passing glance to tell

the boys from the girls, for the Mimis and Fantines had often tucked up

their hair and donned sailors’ clothes or a Tuxedo. Others went in

scantier attire and were more distinguishable. There were feminine

Méphistos, Spanish dancers, little brunettes as bullfighters, and

blondes as Oriental favorites of the harem. When the ball was over,

this motley crowd romped down to supper along the “Boul Mich” in their

fantastic clothes, and had _Marennes vertes_ and cold champagne and

beer and sandwiches in the hostelries of the Quartier Latin.

But all this was only a slice in the carnival pie, for Montmartre was a

bedlam, and the boulevards were still packed and as jolly as they had

been when I crossed that thoroughfare on the top of a bus and saw a

surging sea of color. Such screaming and cheering I have never seen

elsewhere.

Clowns were everywhere, acrobats did flip-flaps from the sand bins

along the route of the Metropolitan, street bands blared away from the

_terrasses_ of the cafés, sidewalk venders did a thriving trade in

confetti, sold in paper bags, which were warranted to hold a true kilo.

Later some of these confetti hawkers began replenishing their stock

from the sidewalk where it could literally be gathered by the shovelful.

All this happened a day ago; before noon Wednesday, Paris had been

swept as clean as a whistle.

Alas! the famous Bal Masqué de l’Opéra is no more in its splendor.

The _bal masqué_ to which once upon a time all of gay Paris went in

domino and mask is now filled by the daughters of _concierges_, by

barbers and jockeys and a general riff-raff, most of whom have entered

by billets of favor. Besides these there are a few dominoed ladies in

the boxes who may once have graced the ball in the old days, and now

and then a pretty woman in black silk tights passes through the foyer,

and is ogled by the remnant of the aged _roués_ who stroll about

comparing the present with the glitter and beauty of the Opéra ball

when it was one of the sights of the world, frequented by the most

celebrated and beautiful of women. All this has gone; the crowd is

motley, noisy and common. The leading feature at the Opéra ball this

year was the cake-walk, over which all Paris has suddenly gone mad.

It is an amusing sight to see the Parisian dance it; he forms his ideas

of the cake-walk mostly from some of the exaggerated illustrations

published in the London journals, and combines these with a touch of

plantation grace taken from the steel engravings out of a French

history of early Alabama.

I know a celebrated French ballet master who has had his hands full

training Parisians in the art of cake-walking. As a _maître de ballet_

there is none better to be found, but his ideas upon the innate grace

of “Syncopated Sandy” are somewhat vague.

[Illustration]

Chapter Nine

IN PARISIAN WATERS

Madame Thérèse Baudière’s brown eyes and the pink-and-white freshness

of her skin are in charming contrast to her gray hair, which she wears

in the coiffure of a certain marquise of a century ago. Sometimes on

fête days, madame encircles her white throat with a black velvet

ribbon. Upon these occasions, she mostly resembles the Watteau-like

marquise whose portrait hangs in the inn adjoining Madame Baudière’s

garden. A seasoned old hostelry is the inn, famous for its vintages and

its sauces, both of which go far toward cheering the stranger who comes

to Poissy.

This quaint town upon the bank of the Seine would be a drowsy little

hamlet indeed were it not so close to Paris that its cobbled streets

are filled on Sundays and holidays with _tuff-tuffs_ and formidable red

racers, which rattle and roar in their endeavor to stand still long

enough to deposit their dust-begrimed occupants at the door of Monsieur

Dalaison’s inn, the Esturgeon. For it is quite the thing for Parisians

to take their Sunday _déjeuner_ or _dîner_ at this hostelry.

When I first saw her, Madame Baudière was stepping out of the narrow

doorway of her bait shop and calling lustily to her garçon André, who

had reached the shore of a feathery green island just opposite, and who

upon hearing madame’s voice turned his boat about and bent his broad

back to his oars in haste to return.

“_Dépêchez-vous!_” cried madame, as he drew nearer. “Monsieur wishes

the big boat.”

“_Bien, madame, tout de suite_,” answered André, plunging the clumsy

blades into the glassy river which swings along past the island and

glides peacefully on its way down to Normandy and the sea.

[Illustration]

[Illustration:

Photo by F. Berkeley Smith

THE ESTURGEON]

Opposite the inn, shored up against the piers of an ancient stone

bridge, framed in a clump of towering poplars, stands a cardboard box

of a house, its sides painted in imitation of brick. It looks like a

toy from which one could lift the gabled roof and find chocolates and

marrons in layers within.

[Illustration:

Photo by F. Berkeley Smith

ONE OF THE FEATHERY ISLANDS]

Near by this bonbonnière, in the shade of the overhanging trees, a

gouty old gentleman beneath a green cotton umbrella watches intently a

tiny red quill floating midway up his line, altho it has given no

signal of alarm for hours.

A gentle breeze shirrs the surface of the water. The old gentleman

pours a little _vin ordinaire_ into a glass, rebaits his hook, and

lights a fresh cigar. Masses of white clouds overhead float in the

clear blue sky.

[Illustration:

Photo by F. Berkeley Smith

A SLEEPY VILLAGE]

Just around the point of the island another boat is moored to two long

poles. In it a young man sits fishing; his sweetheart, who a night ago

had been dining at Maxime’s exquisitely gowned, is now by his side in a

calico wrapper and a straw garden-hat, the brim of which is pulled down

until all that remains visible of her face is the tip of her

_retroussé_ nose, her rosebud mouth and her adorable dimpled chin.

Shouts and shrieks of laughter come from other boats tied along this

quiet stretch of the river.

Tiny villas, their gardens gay in geraniums, skirt the edge of the

stream, where on little wharves sheltered by awnings other Parisians

spend the day a fishing. On one of these an old lady in a black silk

dress reclines in an armchair, her fishing-rod thrust in a convenient

rest, while she occupies herself with her fancy work, talking at

intervals to her husband, a dapper little man in a white waistcoat. The

family butler has just brought him a fresh pailful of bait, the first

supply having been exhausted in the capture of two diminutive

_goujons_, a delicate little fish playing an important part in every

_friture_ along the Seine. It is served like whitebait, crisp and

garnished with watercress and lemon. Opposite my own boat there is

another villa half hidden in the tangle of a pretty garden full of

roses.

[Illustration:

Photo by F. Berkeley Smith

THE QUIET STRETCH]

Here a flat barge is moored to the bank, and in it three people are

fishing. In the bow sits a genial clean-shaven old gentleman, a

celebrated actor, whose red cravat is reflected in the water by a

wiggling scarlet spiral. In the middle of the barge is seated

Mademoiselle Yvette, of the Bouffes Parisiennes. Her cork has just

disappeared with the rush of a foolish _goujon_, and is straightway

pulled up, amid screams from the excited demoiselle, with a jerk

sufficient to land a whale. At her side a man of thirty-five,

sunburned, well-built and immaculate in white flannels, is extricating

the unfortunate _goujon_ from the tangled hook and line.

“_Oh! c’est beau! n’est-ce pas, Jacques?_” cries Yvette, clapping her

hands.

“_Oui, oui, ma petite_,” returns Jacques, happy over her delight.

“_Et toi, chéri_,” laughs Yvette, consolingly, “_tu n’as encore rien

attrappé, ça ne fait rien, je te donnerai le mien_.”

The old gentleman with the scarlet tie rises and bows majestically to

Yvette in recognition of her skill.

A short pantomime follows, in which these two _bons garçons_ present

her with a wreath of honor made of leaves gathered from the bank.

“_Ah! mes enfants_,” cries Yvette, “you are always so good to me!” and

she kisses the old gentleman in quite a fatherly way on both cheeks and

gives her beloved Jacques a little hug of delight. Then all three

return seriously to their fishing.

[Illustration: ENTHUSIASTS]

Now the shutters of an upper window of the villa open and the blond

head of Suzanne is thrust out in greeting.

“_Bonjour, mes enfants!_” she calls cheerily to the three.

“_Ah! ah! Oh! oh! tiens!_ it is really you at last!” cry the

industrious ones.

“Oh! you lazy girl,” shouts Jacques.

“_Bonjour_,” adds the old gentleman in mock sarcasm. “It is a pity you

are so confoundedly lazy that you can not give us the honor of your

gracious company! A fine fisherwoman you, who swore last night by

Psyche you would be up before the sun had crept over yonder hillock and

kissed the river with its rays!”

“_Tout à l’heure, mon vieux_,” returns Suzanne, with a rippling laugh.

“The day is yet young; _au revoir, mes enfants_.” And Suzanne,

extricating one dimpled elbow from her _peignoir_, blows the three

enthusiasts a kiss and closes the shutters.

“Ingrate!” cry all three.

“Eh! do you hear?” roars Jacques, “we have Chambertin for lunch—you

shall not have a drop.”

“_Dormeuse!_” shouts Yvette. “You shall not see Gaston when he comes,

or even the tail of my beautiful _goujon_!”

“Enough,” thunders the old gentleman, melodramatically, “you shall not

leave your boudoir, not even tho the populace cry ‘The Queen! the

Queen! let us see the Queen!’ Consider it henceforth as your dungeon. I

have given orders to the guards without.” The shutters open half way.

[Illustration: AN HABITUÉ]

“Has anyone caught anything!” ventures shyly the owner of the shower of

golden hair.

“One!” savagely reply the others.

“Who caught it?” comes excitedly from the window.

“Yvette!”

“Bravo!” applauds Suzanne. “I am coming down!” And she does, making her

way through the roses. Her exquisite hair is twisted in a hurried coil.

The voluminous sleeves of her _peignoir_ reveal her pretty bare arms as

she runs. The next instant Suzanne is in the barge fishing with the

rest.

Bees drone lazily over the flowers in the tiny garden; the river

flashes in the warm sun; a _carillon_ of bells from a breezy belfry on

the hillside strikes noon, and the four enthusiasts pull up their lines

and go to _déjeuner_.

A table in the garden is laid for eight. Marie, Suzanne’s bonne, is

drying the salad vigorously in its wire cage. In a cool corner the

cobwebbed bottles of Chambertin sleep in their baskets.

[Illustration: THE OLD BRIDGE]

The train has brought Gaston and his friend, a young officer. An

automobile growls and sputters up the villa with the leading villain of

a Parisian theater, a man full of kindly good humor, accompanied by a

graceful woman with jet-black hair, a _danseuse_. It is Tuesday, there

is no matinée and every one is happy.

And how gay they are! how full of spirit and rollicking camaraderie!

How many toasts are drank, how many clever songs are sung during the

whole of this bohemian breakfast! The officer and Jacques move the

short upright piano close to the table. Suzanne, now the pink of

neatness, with a little laugh mounts a chair, raises her glass through

which the light glints as golden as her hair, and sings the aria from

Charpentier’s “Louise.” The small company are silent in ecstasy under

the spell of her mellow voice. The lines of smoke rising from the

cigarettes seem like fires of incense burning in adoration of this

fascinating little goddess whose golden heart has made her a rare good

comrade.

And so with song and story the _déjeuner_ ends. There is no more

fishing. Yvette and Jacques go for a walk; the _danseuse_ and the

villain start in their _tuff-tuff_ back to Paris; the old gentleman

with the scarlet tie takes a nap; Suzanne and Gaston row down the

river, and the officer returns to his barracks. Only when the moon

floods the garden with its light do the lovers return. In the garden

the roses pale in the glow of candles from the windows of the villa,

nodding their heads sleepily in the night breeze. A bat zigzags over

the tops of the hollyhocks; two little birds high up in the tree peep

their last good-night. Dinner is at eight.

[Illustration: A PICNIC PARTY]

Past this rural paradise the silent river glides and tells no tales.

I pulled up my anchor and rowed back to the inn. The villa with its

happy day had fascinated me.

There must be hundreds of others like it along the Seine, I argued.

That night I made up my mind to take a trip in a rowboat down to Rouen.

I was warned, by my good landlord of the inn, that such a voyage would

be fraught with untold hardships and danger.

“And in what way?” I asked.

“Ah! monsieur, there are the locks, and, when the wind blows, the river

gets very rough. Monsieur should take a brave and strong _marin_ with

him to make such a journey.”

“Have you ever been down the Seine?”

“Only once, monsieur, on a canal-boat with my brother-in-law to Mantes,

where he became cook to a famous hostelry. It was he who came yesterday

and made the sauce to the sole you have just eaten.”

I bowed my compliments. If his seamanship was as good as his cooking,

the brother-in-law could have commanded a man-of-war.

How Paris Amuses Itself · 第 10 / 12 段