Half an hour later, in a nearby café, I came across the hero and Zuléma

slaking a tropical thirst with two tall steins of beer. The beautiful

princess carried her stage shoes with her, wrapped in a newspaper.

Presently I caught sight of the faithful maid hurrying to a _cabinet

particulier_ upstairs with a gentleman in a silk hat and a fur-lined

overcoat. I afterwards learned that the maid and Zuléma did not speak.

Alas, all is not gold that glitters!

[Illustration]

Chapter Four

BARS AND BOULEVARDS

There was a certain coziness about the “Bar du Grillon.” It was well

named, this “Bar of the Cricket,” for, tho a public resort, it was

thoroughly homelike.

The walls of the tiny room were of polished cherry, and masses of

Jacqueminot roses adorned the bar.

Every day its charming proprietress, Madame Lucille de Bréville,

stepped from her brougham, passed through the screen doorway, deposited

the contents of the money-drawer in her golden purse, made a memorandum

of it with a little turquoise-topped pencil which hung from her

châtelaine, gave an extra touch to her wavy hair in a tiny mirror, and

straightway became the most gracious of hostesses to a dozen old

friends who dropped in during the afternoon and dined at eight.

A pretty woman is difficult to describe, but Lucille de Bréville was

more than pretty; she was beautiful, exasperatingly so. It might have

been the curve of her white throat, or the merriness in the depths of

her violet eyes, or the grace of her matured and exquisite figure which

gave her charm, for Lucille possessed all these. Better still, she had

a heart of gold and a clever brain, both of which won for her many

comrades who were too fond of her to make love to her. Lucille had had

many love affairs. That was one reason why she became at thirty quite a

serious proprietress of the Bar du Grillon. The pin money which it

brought her gave her an interest in life, for most French women seem to

inherit a little of the bourgeois blood of the _commerçants_. With her

pin money she could do as she pleased; with her annuity it was

different. There was always an accounting accompanying that. At thirty,

Lucille had sold most of her jewels and with the proceeds founded a

private charity, and had settled upon a frail old aunt who adored her a

yearly amount sufficient to keep her in modest comfort to the end of

her days.

Individually the habitués of the Bar du Grillon were interesting.

There was an aged Countess who came regularly, an amiable old lady,

shriveled like a faded rose, the memoirs of whose sixty years would

have filled a volume.

There was, too, a robust and jolly editor of a leading journal, a most

polished gentleman of France, with a well-trimmed beard framing a

countenance beaming with good humor.

Thirdly, there was the Count de X——, who spent most of his time

before and after dinner in the only rocking-chair in the place, with

Lucille’s two sleek-coated dachshunds curled contentedly in his lap.

Sometimes, on sunny days, the Count went to the races and with absent

mind watched the horses win or lose for him. Upon days like these he

would return to the bar late to find the rocking-chair occupied, and

this is why he did not go to the track oftener. But whether he lost or

won, whichever way the wheel of fortune spun for him, his outward

manner preserved its even tenor. He was ever polished and agreeable. To

him life had no new sensations, and he took it philosophically and with

good grace. Perhaps the sole interest which he cherished was his deep

affection for Lucille, but since many others among her old friends

harbored the same feeling, to which she responded with the most

exasperating of platonic friendships, the Count accepted the situation

logically and retired to the rocking-chair to talk to the dachshunds.

The young Spaniard who sat at Lucille’s left at dinner accepted the

situation less wisely. Often he burst forth beneath his breath with

_Caramba!_ and other safety-valves of speech. Periodically he became

desperate, and, since he could not lay his castles in Spain at her

feet, he brooded over the thought of suicide, and would absent himself

from the company for days, drinking heavily. Then he would return to

the Grillon with the excuse that he had been at death’s door in his

apartment. Tho he looked it, Lucille knew better and lectured him for

his recklessness and especially for his intemperate habits, which she

abhorred.

Another habitué was Mademoiselle Marcelle Dauval, who fell in love with

an aeronaut and spent most of her time in balloons. When Marcelle was

late for dinner the company wore an anxious air, took out their

watches, poked their heads out of the door and surveyed the heavens

through the slit of the narrow street. Often, as the dinner hour

approached, the sky was black and full of scudding clouds, and the

dinner would begin without her in silence born of anxiety. Then what

joy when Marcelle arrived, her cheeks glowing from a rarer atmosphere

than any of these sordid worldlings knew! “_Pâté de foie gras_, cold

pheasant and _champagne brut_ at a height of two thousand meters! Eh,

Hop!” and Marcelle gave a little scream at the memory of it. Often she

navigated the big balloon herself, throwing out the sand and sprinkling

the “Germans,” as she used to say, as they glided on long trips over a

patch of the Fatherland. Or she would curl herself up in the creaky

basket while her companion Jacques busied himself with his aerial

observations.

The company would listen entranced to these recitals of the trim

Marcelle’s daily experiences, and marvel at her fearlessness.

There was another genial comrade, Jeannette Brébant, whose forty odd

years had left her frank, mannish and homely. There was no feminine

pettishness to be found in Jeannette. She called a spade a spade, and

dealt you whole shovelfuls of badinage, shook hands like a man and had

a kind word for every one, even her old lovers. A well-groomed woman

was Jeannette, with her Titian hair as neatly dressed at four o’clock

as the smartest coiffeur in Paris could make it.

At eight, the faithful Louis, whose position as barkeeper and waiter

made him indispensable, placed a Japanese screen in front of the door

as a hint to warn intruders, pushed the three small tables together and

laid the fresh cloth for dinner, bringing the vases of roses which had

adorned the bar to the table. Lucille loved flowers, and a basketful of

long-stemmed Jacqueminots came daily from the hot-house of her pretty

place at Étretat, where Lucille rested during the hottest of the summer

months when every Parisian who was able fled from the city.

Then Lucille closed the bar for its annual renovation and the faithful

Louis was sent on a vacation to his family on the German frontier,

where he rested from his cocktail-mixing and studied English, which he

rarely had occasion to use and which was quite as bad as his French.

The only thing American about this “American Bar” was the sign over the

door, beneath which appeared a long list of American drinks with weird

names, translated to him from a bartender’s guide published on the

Bowery in the early sixties, not one concoction of which he had ever

been able to mix.

During the summer period workmen invaded the Grillon and a general

varnishing took place. The small tables were repolished and the chimney

leading from the tiny kitchen cleaned. The piano was tuned and the cozy

interior made spick and span for the grand opening in the fall. Then

all of the old crowd would return; it was like the reunion of a family:

Jeannette and Marcelle and the editor and the Count, from his villa by

the sea, and the Spaniard, who never left Paris. Then such a dinner! So

much had happened in the meantime, and there was so much to talk about.

The Countess had been a month at Trouville.

“_Ah! mes chers enfants_,” she would begin in her gentle voice, “It was

not like the old days there any more. Such a common lot about the

_petits chevaux_; none of the great toilettes I used to see, nor as

many louis won and lost, either,” she added, nodding her head.

“I played my small purse cautiously on the ‘_bande_’ one day. I won a

thousand francs, and the next morning I took my little bonne Thérèse

south; she is not very strong and she was so happy to see her mother.”

The editor rose and bowed.

“You have a good heart, old friend,” he said, as he bent and kissed the

tips of her fingers.

“We stayed there a week on their farm,” continued the Countess, “and I

spent all day in the sun watching the pigs and the chickens. You have

no idea what an appetite I had and what a rest in my old clothes.”

“Come, come, all of you, my children,” cried Lucille, “my soup is

getting cold;” and she buried the silver ladle in the _purée_.

For some moments after the company were served they remained silent.

The _purée_ deserved a prayer of thanks, while Marie, Lucille’s bonne,

beamed at their satisfaction from the doorway of her kitchen.

“It is good, is it not?” laughed Lucille, delighted as a child over the

new soup.

“_Voilà!_ That is a soup,” roared the editor.

“My dear child,” put in the Count, bowing to Lucille, “I have known

intimately for years the best _purées_ of the Maison Dorée; those were

soups. This is a masterpiece! a dream!! a soup to comfort the soul!!!”

“Ah! you dear old boy,” cried Lucille, patting him on the cheek, “you

are always so appreciative;” and she added, in a whisper, to the rest:

“Marie is enchanted.”

[Illustration: IN A BOULEVARD CAFÉ]

Over the coffee and liqueur they often discussed in open debate such

serious topics as whether or not marriage was a failure; the finer

points of fidelity; were women more faithful in their love than men?

had luxury become a necessity? what really constitutes happiness in

life; were it not better to enjoy the present, since one could not help

the past or control the future? etc., etc.

Such discussions as these would last until the hour grew late and the

hands of the clock ticking over the bar crawled to another day.

Then the shutters were put up, the company dispersed, and Lucille’s

waiting brougham would drive her home.

But it was the Count who saw her safely within her carriage, stowed the

sleepy dachshunds in their warm corner under the seat, and raised his

hat as Lucille drove away.

Some years have passed since the old days when “The Bar of the Cricket”

held such comrades as these.

It was winter when I turned down the narrow street again one afternoon

and entered the door.

The room was silent. The cozy interior had remained much the same as it

had been in the past; the walls of polished cherry, the tables, the

piano, were in their places as of old, but the roses on the bar were

artificial, and a self-feeding stove roared in one corner.

The faithful Louis came to greet me. He looked haggard and grayer; the

only other occupant of the room, a man with a hard jaw and a diamond

ring, lounged in the rocking-chair, muttering to himself over a

cocktail.

A glance at Louis told me all.

“And so they have all gone?” I said.

“Yes, monsieur;” he paused, and his eyes filled.

“Ah! it is not no more now like old days, is it?” he continued, forcing

a smile, and his hand trembled, clutching his napkin. “Madame de

Bréville, you know, she sold the bar? Yes, she has gone avay. I hafn’t

seen her once,” and he looked up sadly.

“And Mademoiselle Marcelle, she is no longer in Paris; she vent avay

now three years to St. Petersburg,” he continued.

“Once I seen de Countess. She come back to see me. Poor Countess, she

is sick—sick like one dead—so pale, so white, yust like dot napkin.

And now she lives mit Madame Brébant. Ah! Himmel! How I laf sometimes

at dot Madame Brébant, she vas alvays making some fun. And de Spanish

gentleman, Monsieur Gonsalez! He got married. Ya, he vas married to a

fine lady with plenty money.”

“And the editor?” I asked.

“I don’t see him no more; he vas a goot man;” and he added, softly,

lowering his voice, “I tink he vas in love mit Madame de Bréville! Ya,

I tink so.”

“Have you heard from the Count?” I asked.

“Ah! you don’t hear about him, no? He was suicided. He vent and shooted

hisself. It vas in all de papers. He vas a fine gentleman, too, de

Count. And so, monsieur, it is only Louis who stays; may be I be better

off if I do, vhat you tink? May be it vill be a goot place again some

day?”

In the Bois one sunny morning a little girl in a velvet dress came

running to me as fast as her chubby legs could carry her and screaming:

“Monsieur, monsieur, my mamma wishes to speak to you; she is just over

there in the carriage,” and she pointed with a majestic sweep of her

little hand to a landau waiting under the shade of the acacias.

It was Lucille, happily married to one none of us had ever seen.

There are many bars in Paris with barmaids who speak perfect English

and a clientèle of _demi-mondaines_ who do not.

[Illustration]

Many of these places have grown to be miniature Maximes and quite a few

of them keep a _chasseur_ in gilt buttons. They are frequented by the

idling _jeunesse_ with more “louis” than brains, who occupy late in the

afternoon the high stools and pay accordingly for the flattering _bons

mots_ of certain powdered and bediamonded ladies who in years are old

enough to be their grandmothers. The fortunes of the callow youths

tumble eventually either into the hands of these well-seasoned

adventuresses or into the pocket of the card-sharps who patronize many

of these bars. Beside these there are many eminently respectable

looking old gentlemen who, with unhappy homes and no clubs to go to,

prefer passing a restful hour steeped in an atmosphere of mixed drinks,

perfume and expensive toilettes. Here Mimi la Duchesse strolls in at

five o’clock with her French bulldog, “Mignon,” wearing all the

diamonds around his neck that the fair Mimi has not room for on her

fingers. Later in the winter, when creditors are pressing and Mimi’s

debts have run into several hundred thousands of francs, there will be

a very _chic_ catalog issued announcing an absolute auction of her

effects, together with her private hotel.

It will contain several full-page photogravures upon hand-made

deckle-edged paper of her residence, with a frontispiece showing the

interior of the “Great Hall” paneled in Spanish leather, its fireplace

taken from a famous château of the time of François I., and hanging

over the carved shelf a celebrated Madonna, under whose sad eyes have

been played nightly so many heavy games of baccarat. Turning another

page you will discover the view looking south through the conservatory

filled with rare exotic plants and orchids. Another page shows the

_salon_, rich in carved ivory and _cloisonne_ and _art nouveau_, none

of which Mimi knew anything about except that they were expensive and

that many of them accompanied the bonbons. Then the dainty boudoir is

depicted, paneled in teakwood and lapis-lazuli. Finally her superb

jewels are illustrated: priceless strings of pearls; rings of weighty

emeralds and pigeon-blood rubies; a gold toilet-set studded with

sapphires; and something to adorn Mimi’s neck, composed mostly of

diamonds, with a miniature automobile in rubies, pendent from a display

of jeweled fruits upheld by two caryatids in diamonds and emeralds.

Besides all these, are three ruby collars that Mignon as yet had never

worn.

[Illustration:

Drawing by Perinet

MIMI QUESTIONS THE BARON]

With the publication of this _catalogue de luxe_, rumors reach the ears

of the public of the lady’s dire distress, and the pathetic side of

this forced sale will be dwelt upon. At the private view her residence

is crowded with the curious of the _grand monde_. These women of the

most exclusive society cross her threshold and block her stairway and

pry into every open corner of her domicile—women who would have been

shocked to find themselves in front of her doorstep at any other time.

So much for the moral hypocrisy of the virtuous.

And while the stairways at this private view are thronged with the

fashionable world, Mimi and her most intimate friends are laughing over

champagne and biscuits in the kitchen, the only room that has not been

turned over to the public.

But when a few days after the sale you learn that Mimi has stayed the

cruel hand of the law by the sale of half her jewels, and sent out

invitations to her nearest friends for a housewarming and a costume

ball _chez elle_ Sunday night, you begin to see the advertising feature

of the scheme, and realize something of the _naïveté_ of Mimi.

The opening of the first small bar in Paris managed by women happened

only a score of years ago and met with a furor of popularity, the

receipts reaching often three thousand francs a day. Since then the

number of bars has grown yearly until now many of them are constantly

on a point of failure owing to the increase of competition.

Most of them have become the idling resorts of habitués of the new and

old _jeunesse_ with small fortunes, who spend hours therein chatting

with the Mimis and Claras who chance to drop in daily.

The best class of our bars would never become popular with the average

Parisian, for the reason that there are no Mimis or Claras in them to

talk to. The Parisian demands that at least a certain part of his day

should be spent in the society of women, and it has been the habit of

his life to have them about him as much as possible. The hours he is

forced to spend at his _bureau_ or in the Bourse he considers only as a

necessary means to the pleasures of his leisure.

In these bars it has become a general custom to serve a table d’hôte

dinner at eight to the habitués and to any stranger who may feel

himself sufficiently at home to stay.

These small public dinner parties are amusing. As a rule the menu is

plain and excellent and the guests agreeable.

Just such a place is the new bar in the rue Duphot, a somewhat

pretentious little room smartly appointed and crowded nightly. Another

is in a corner opposite the Madeleine, its narrow interior dazzling at

night in a profusion of yellow brocade and electricity. Such bars as

these are of the newer class, but there are others far more attractive

in their simplicity, such as the one in the rue du Helder and in the

rue Taitbout and the old London bar in the rue Lysly, and others in the

rue St. Honoré and in the rue Louis-le-Grand, yet in none of these has

the character remained unchanged, for some of them have had a dozen new

proprietors in the last five years.

A most excellent establishment is Henry’s bar in the rue Volnay, the

most American in its type existing in Paris. It is patronized by old

and young from the incoming steamers. If you wish to shut out Paris

from your mind, drop in at Henry’s any afternoon at five; it is

precisely as tho you had been magically transported back to the Hoffman

House.

You will hear Southern colonels there still harping on the war, and

shrewd politicians from up York State telling personal anecdotes of Mr.

Platt, you will find well-groomed men dropping in for a friendly

cocktail before dinner, and you will learn all about the fall business

in ladies’ “plain velours,” the button trust, the latest details of the

corner on babies’ caps, and how Max Dindlehoofer held up Poughkeepsie

with a new brand of _champagne brut_—but all this is not Parisian and

we may dismiss it.

The annual invasion of foreigners supports the big hotels and the shops

of the rue de la Paix and the adjacent neighborhood, but the foreigner

makes little impression upon the average Parisian, who regards the

coming of the “_étranger_” as a small incident in the life of his

beloved city. He passes him unconsciously as one passes the corner of

his street.

[Illustration: A QUIET HOUR]

“They come and go and we are not conscious of them,” said a Parisian to

me. “Besides,” he added, “there are tens of thousands of Parisians

whose daily life is confined to the _quartiers_ in which they live—big

sections of the city where the foreigner seldom finds himself.”

If you wish to see every type of Parisian go by in an endless stream of

swarming humanity, seat yourself upon any of the _terrasses_ of the

grand cafés that line the sides of the grand Boulevards stretching from

the Madeleine to the Théâtre du Gymnase. It is of all Paris the most

frequented—the broad highway of this vast city into which pour the

inhabitants of thousands of connecting byways.

Its stones are worn by the tramp and scuffle of countless thousands

pausing to gaze at the crowded _terrasses_ or to stop for an

_apéritif_. The system with which these popular _terrasses_ are managed

by the generals and their lieutenants in charge of an army of hurrying

waiters is perfect. These head-waiters in command of the sidewalk

portion of these establishments will note your arrival and departure

with the quickness with which a telephone operator detects the dropping

of one of a thousand numbers on a central switchboard. During the rush

you can spend hours over a six sous _bock_, but when you leave, your

table will be filled before you have mingled with the passing stream of

humanity in front.

[Illustration: READY FOR AN OUTING]

The types composing this multitude are as varied as the ever-changing

pattern in a kaleidoscope. Every step you take brings you past a dozen

individuals each one different from the other. Turn quickly, and count

them if you can. The last moment has brought you by a motley score of

merchants, a _cocotte_, an Arab sheik, a ragpicker, a lady, a Japanese,

a _boulevardier_, a simple soldier, an _officier_, two gamins, and a

pretty girl with a bundle. As you turn, a _camelot_, running in a pair

of dirty canvas slippers, screams the latest edition of “La Patrie” in

your ears, and a man in a top hat begs your pardon for having jostled

you in the ribs. There is no time for formalities—he disappears in the

stream and you are borne on with the tide to the corner. Taking

advantage of a second’s halt of the passing cabs, you dodge over to the

opposite curb and into another section of the multitude. The crossing

which you have just left behind is noisy with the snapping of whips and

swearing _cochers_. In many of these carriages one catches a glimpse of

fair women. In a passing cab a _blanchisseuse_ and her sweetheart are

enjoying a chance drive, with madame’s tardy wash deposited in a huge

basket beside the good-natured _cocher_. Old women pushing small carts

cry their wares: “_Les belles pêches, voilà les belles pêches, dix sous

la livre!_”

Three long-haired students go whistling by. In the midst of the throng

you hear bits of conversation:

“Listen!” says a pretty woman radiant over some news to her

companion—but they are gone.

Two more go by furious. “It was he then who lied!” cries one to the

other—but the crowd swallows them up.

Sentences from strange languages reach your ears in the throng, scraps

of Turkish, the guttural of some passing savage, now the cold drawl of

an Englishman, again the soft lisp from a Spanish signorita.

“Say, Bill, you’d orter seen Charley, they didn’t do a thing to him, I

told Lil, says I ...” and two fellow-citizens stride on.

At the corner, jostled by the human tide, two _chic demoiselles_ fresh

from a rehearsal at a nearby theater pass, laughing over some recent

adventure. The next instant they are climbing to the top of an omnibus

and are rattling away toward La Villette.

At night this great highway is ablaze with lights and the swarm still

passes, augmented by the masses who have poured from the shops. By

eight the restaurants and theaters are full to overflowing, but there

is no diminution in the stream of passers-by along the boulevards. The

only hours when the life there seems slack is when the masses are at

work or in bed. There are no people who enjoy their city more than do

Parisians, or who use its thoroughfares so much as a place of pleasure.

The cafés along the boulevards are frequented by a vast _clientèle_ of

men and women of every clime and occupation. These cafés are favorite

places for rendezvous. In one of them a man glances from time to time

to his watch over his paper as he awaits his friend. At the next table

a blonde with steel-gray eyes awaits someone, she does not know whom.

But there is no hurry in either case.

How Paris Amuses Itself · 第 4 / 12 段